Enjoying your videos. Your probably deep into part 2 by now so this may come too late. I had a very similar slow water loss and slight water contamination in the oil with no other obvious signs of head gasket failure. I lived with it for a long time but eventually had the head gasket done but the problem wasn't the HG. The actual water loss was due to the seal between the cylinder liners and block. Drop the water level in the block, lift up the liners (you will need to bring the pistons up to the top in turn) and apply a bead of blue Hylomar around the sealing ledge of the liners and then push the liners back down. It fixed my problem now no water loss and clean water free oil. Keep up the good work.
I've watched many of Craig's videos,all very good.For those that think it's a difficult job,think again,I recently replaced my own after repeatedly watching various subscribers here.I got stuck in and found it a pleasure....in the end lol
Great video craig love the way you are doing it to help us diy it Keep up the good work keep the videos coming and don't forget the wing cover /protector 👍
Hi Craig, my head gasket was change not long after I bought the car, mine had the upgraded elastomer one one the car, it wasn't gone but the car was so cheap I had money to do the job. I bought the full upgrade, heavy duty oil rail, Payen multi layer head gasket and high tensile head bolts, also had the head skimmed, that was done five years ago now, I have toured Scotland been on many rallies and trips, done thousands of miles with no issue at all. there are so many poor quality gaskets out there, get the best one possible, I'm not an expert but I think it pays to go the full hog on the repair. I also change the antifreeze coolant every year. good luck,
That was brave Craig! It's (literally) the only job I didn't do myself on mine. I found removing the entire subframe, engine and gearbox less daunting for some reason. Well done so far anyway. I look forward to the next episode. Cheers.
Great to see you working on the MG, especially to this level. Really helps people when considering to take on jobs like this themselves. Have you considered the oil cooler at the rear of the engine on the 160, its a laminova cooler and displays the same symptoms as a head gasket fail, unless you have compression issues. Fantastic job though, love watch these videos, really good 👍
Really well presented , it's a fiddly job but as you say not impossible, was there any real signs of head gasket failure ? Looking forward to part 2 all best Gra J.
LOL mine is MLS and my liners are flush with head and its brilliant not something to worrie about I watched the youtube video where they said that and worried myself as well but its not the case but it is funny to see your head 3-4mm in the air from the block works great
Absolutely no chance of me attempting this on mine. Hopefully it will never need doing. I can see why a lot of garages won't touch them nowadays. Good job though 😊
The plugs with metal tangs should be compressed not pulled off, and usually lost!! Found this out myself after I tried to find replacements by asking in a forum. (T-Bar) In the end I made some from paperclips and they work fine.
Would it have been difficult for the design engineers to have the whole boot assembly together with the cross panel that the hinges are attached to, come off completely? Well maybe they did this on purpose for RUclips entertainment years later.
I suspect the body would be quite floppy if that part was just bolted in. It was designed more for ease of manufacture where they just lift up the subframe complete with engine, gearbox and suspension all assembled
Enjoying your videos. Your probably deep into part 2 by now so this may come too late. I had a very similar slow water loss and slight water contamination in the oil with no other obvious signs of head gasket failure. I lived with it for a long time but eventually had the head gasket done but the problem wasn't the HG. The actual water loss was due to the seal between the cylinder liners and block. Drop the water level in the block, lift up the liners (you will need to bring the pistons up to the top in turn) and apply a bead of blue Hylomar around the sealing ledge of the liners and then push the liners back down. It fixed my problem now no water loss and clean water free oil. Keep up the good work.
Great video looking forward to part 2
I've watched many of Craig's videos,all very good.For those that think it's a difficult job,think again,I recently replaced my own after repeatedly watching various subscribers here.I got stuck in and found it a pleasure....in the end lol
Great video craig love the way you are doing it to help us diy it
Keep up the good work keep the videos coming and don't forget the wing cover /protector 👍
Hi Craig, my head gasket was change not long after I bought the car, mine had the upgraded elastomer one one the car, it wasn't gone but the car was so cheap I had money to do the job. I bought the full upgrade, heavy duty oil rail, Payen multi layer head gasket and high tensile head bolts, also had the head skimmed, that was done five years ago now, I have toured Scotland been on many rallies and trips, done thousands of miles with no issue at all. there are so many poor quality gaskets out there, get the best one possible, I'm not an expert but I think it pays to go the full hog on the repair. I also change the antifreeze coolant every year. good luck,
Brilliant video and it will be a great help to anyone thinking of doing this repair, well done and stay well.
That was brave Craig! It's (literally) the only job I didn't do myself on mine. I found removing the entire subframe, engine and gearbox less daunting for some reason. Well done so far anyway. I look forward to the next episode. Cheers.
Good work there Craig excellent tutorial bet your back was in bits after all that work looking forward to seeing your second part 👍
Great to see you working on the MG, especially to this level. Really helps people when considering to take on jobs like this themselves. Have you considered the oil cooler at the rear of the engine on the 160, its a laminova cooler and displays the same symptoms as a head gasket fail, unless you have compression issues. Fantastic job though, love watch these videos, really good 👍
Amazing 😊
20:48
You push the metal tang in and the plug comes off. 😅
Really well presented , it's a fiddly job but as you say not impossible, was there any real signs of head gasket failure ? Looking forward to part 2 all best Gra J.
LOL mine is MLS and my liners are flush with head and its brilliant not something to worrie about I watched the youtube video where they said that and worried myself as well but its not the case but it is funny to see your head 3-4mm in the air from the block works great
Absolutely no chance of me attempting this on mine. Hopefully it will never need doing. I can see why a lot of garages won't touch them nowadays. Good job though 😊
The plugs with metal tangs should be compressed not pulled off, and usually lost!! Found this out myself after I tried to find replacements by asking in a forum. (T-Bar) In the end I made some from paperclips and they work fine.
Yeah I figured that out when putting them back together... after struggling to find them.
Would it have been difficult for the design engineers to have the whole boot assembly together with the cross panel that the hinges are attached to, come off completely? Well maybe they did this on purpose for RUclips entertainment years later.
I suspect the body would be quite floppy if that part was just bolted in.
It was designed more for ease of manufacture where they just lift up the subframe complete with engine, gearbox and suspension all assembled