@@snowballengineering - I am neither engineer or machinist but I was going to suggest you rough cut the bulk of the excess out with a grinder and then finish off with the fly cutter or a suitable end mill.
A little weight is good as it cuts down on chatter. No doubt it’ll be heavy but at least it won’t flex. It’s going to be a great tool when you’ve finished, I’m enjoying the process 🙂
Great work and cool project. Well impressed. Fastest and cheapest way to remove metal is drilling. Chain drill the bulk off, then put it in the milling machine to clean up and make it flat and shiny
feeds and speeds for a face mill are based on how many inserts and the material the starting parameters are around 100RPM and about 0.150" dept of cut and play from there, it depends on the rigidity of your machine.
Well, you are truly the Swarfmeister; great idea and execution. Very envious of your lathe and zero need to counterbalance an extremely asymmetrical weight on the chuck - was worried for you when you spun that big bast*rd up !
Nice build I wonder if it might be a bit heavy for moving a round. I do some line boring myself . It looks like it well work out . I have an old K O LEE boring set up it is self feeding with two speeds.But no frame work like you are building keep it going you can get it done
@@snowballengineering Brother you are definitely going for the last three or four lifetimes dependable and indestructible build. Hopefully I will be able to replicate your work in aluminum.
Yes, lifting in a big chuck and catching it on it's register/thread is all very easy with an overhead crane or hoist but not too easy if all you have to hand is a sky-hook.
Luckily my dad was about to help give me a lift in with it but it was still quite heavy! That could be a future video making an overhead arm off the shed post to lift things into the lathe.
Very well done. Top darts What size clarkson auto lock do you have as I have some big end mills. You could plunge mill the metal with a big end mill. Put a bit of scrap on the mill bed clamp it down well and try the tip cutter around 140 and watch the chips...DONT climb mill as the back lash in the old girl will not be good.
@@snowballengineering Gang drilling is good, used to do that on roughing out for slots. just keep the bed lock nipped up and only mill into the work not climb.
What kind of drill bits do you recommend for drilling in steel? There are so many different coatings and such. I am mainly a woodworker, but I've started doing a bit more metal stuff and want to invest in some good quality drill bits so that drilling in steel isn't near to impossible every time I try it. I will mainly work with mild steel / stainless in the beginning.
I've just built an arbor support for my bridgeport and had to remover a lot of steel from the plate I was using I used a ripper shell mill and took a .250" depth of cut without any drama but that face mill isn't going to like big cuts going to take a while with that .
drill a decent size ,say an inch ,hole in the corner of the material you don't want then cut down to it with a horizontal bandsaw ,there will be some milling to tidy it up but you will be left with a nice radius in the corner and a useful offcut.
I am not a machinist but is it more logical not to squeeze the opening first and mill it to size but do the opposite by cutting the split tag it bore it to size cut the tags so that it will fit and be very tight when tighten the bold?
I want it to spring open and be a loose fit when the bolt isn’t tightened so it’s easy to remove. I see what you’re saying, the bolt should tighten it down more than what I squeezed it down to machine it.
Heavy translates to accurate. But when you traversed the drill it went through an arc? Don't ask me how or why? If you're unhappy with the weight use the steel blocks as plugs for sand moulds and remake a set in aluminium. It's a heavy mission so we can all see this is just equipment to do the real work. I don't understand how the drill appears to make a gentle arc through the length of it's travel? If you figure it out I'm all ears?
You could fit a cheap Chinese DRO on that mill which would make life a tad easier and lessen the chance of making a mistake by not having to convert metric/imperial measurement units. 👍😁
@@snowballengineering You can always remove the DRO when you change the mill. I'm looking forward to the next instalment 😊 Can I ask where you are located
@@glennmoreland6457 not following you there. You said the British as in they were the inventors and they for sure aren't. No clue why I would be intimidated.
Gday, I’m really enjoying this build, also subscribed, this is going to be a neat unit when it’s all done, cheers
Just found this channel and gotta say we're liking it 👍 impressed with bravery of slinging that huge piece of metal in your lathe!
You may want to face the surface where the pinch bolt closes down on. Terrific job you're doing 👍
Yes, that needs doing. Thanks!
That will be a great boring tool when finished... Very good engineering...
Thanks!
9 inch grinder fly through that then clean it up on the mill, it’s coming together well the borer 👌
I was thinking of that as one of my options. Thanks!
@@snowballengineering - I am neither engineer or machinist but I was going to suggest you rough cut the bulk of the excess out with a grinder and then finish off with the fly cutter or a suitable end mill.
A little weight is good as it cuts down on chatter. No doubt it’ll be heavy but at least it won’t flex. It’s going to be a great tool when you’ve finished, I’m enjoying the process 🙂
It doesn’t weigh too much at the moment. Won’t be as handy as the mag drill for getting into places tho I don’t think. Hopefully 🤞🏻
@@snowballengineering But you will still have the mag drill set-up for those fewer occasions.
Nice work, you're a braver man than me having that big lump of steel flying around in the lathe chuck.😄
That’s what 4 jaws are designed for 😉 was a bit off balance though!
My bollocks retracted as well on that one - tailstock support helped ease my mind…a bit.
Indeed, imbalanced work like this needs lower spindle speed.
Great work and cool project. Well impressed.
Fastest and cheapest way to remove metal is drilling. Chain drill the bulk off, then put it in the milling machine to clean up and make it flat and shiny
I like it how you make your own tools 😊
Brilliant work really enjoy watching all of your content so far…
Thanks for watching. Glad you’re enjoying the videos!
Great job. Coming together nicely, mate.
Thanks. Getting there with it.
Very nice work love watching
feeds and speeds for a face mill are based on how many inserts and the material the starting parameters are around 100RPM and about 0.150" dept of cut and play from there, it depends on the rigidity of your machine.
Nice work ! Looking forward to the next step in the build!
Well, you are truly the Swarfmeister; great idea and execution.
Very envious of your lathe and zero need to counterbalance an extremely asymmetrical weight on the chuck - was worried for you when you spun that big bast*rd up !
I made sure it was well nipped in the chuck! And kept out the line of fire. Seemed quite happy at 160rpm.
Excellent progress and quality of work. Be nice to get it chemically blackened when it's all finished
Nitride finish is always nice, but cold blue would do in a pinch
Thanks! I’m going to look into tufftride coating, if it’s not too expensive.
hanks for another amazing video.
Nice build I wonder if it might be a bit heavy for moving a round. I do some line boring myself . It looks like it well work out . I have an old K O LEE boring set up it is self feeding with two speeds.But no frame work like you are building keep it going you can get it done
No doubt it’ll be heavy. Might have to see if I can lighten it some if it’s going to be too heavy.
@@snowballengineering Brother you are definitely going for the last three or four lifetimes dependable and indestructible build. Hopefully I will be able to replicate your work in aluminum.
Its all starting to take shape now pal, nice work.
Getting there. Thanks
Yes, lifting in a big chuck and catching it on it's register/thread is all very easy with an overhead crane or hoist but not too easy if all you have to hand is a sky-hook.
Luckily my dad was about to help give me a lift in with it but it was still quite heavy! That could be a future video making an overhead arm off the shed post to lift things into the lathe.
Awesome video, thank you
Looking good!
I keep hearing chook 🐔
Good work mate, keep em coming
Bloody Brilliant !
Very well done. Top darts What size clarkson auto lock do you have as I have some big end mills.
You could plunge mill the metal with a big end mill. Put a bit of scrap on the mill bed clamp it down well and try the tip cutter around 140 and watch the chips...DONT climb mill as the back lash in the old girl will not be good.
I have a 32mm end mill I could plunge cut with. Or I could drill a row of 50mm holes and mill out what’s left.
@@snowballengineering Gang drilling is good, used to do that on roughing out for slots. just keep the bed lock nipped up and only mill into the work not climb.
Great work! 👍 love the baler twine on the drill chuck key, must have some farmer in you? As I do 👍
Thanks! Yes I do 🤣
What kind of drill bits do you recommend for drilling in steel? There are so many different coatings and such. I am mainly a woodworker, but I've started doing a bit more metal stuff and want to invest in some good quality drill bits so that drilling in steel isn't near to impossible every time I try it. I will mainly work with mild steel / stainless in the beginning.
Great job, and very interesting
Thanks!
mooier dan orgineel , echt super gaaf wat je allemaal maakt
Thanks!
I've just built an arbor support for my bridgeport and had to remover a lot of steel from the plate I was using I used a ripper shell mill and took a .250" depth of cut without any drama but that face mill isn't going to like big cuts going to take a while with that .
Think I’ll drill a row of 50mm holes, take the rest out with a big end mill and then finish off with the face mill.
I would love to make one of these i need a lathe
What kind of drill is this mate?
What kind of plasma/torch table and program do you have that you can draw it out instead of programming I need that set up
The magic eye profiler? The one that follows a hand drawn pattern.
Invest in some Zeus table's! Best investment ever for cutting speeds, feed speeds, etc...
Alsome build man..
What kind of plasma/torch program are you using that you draw it out instead of programming I need that type of program
Drill and tap a hole in the side of your chuck for a eye bolt to take on and off white fork lift. Or chuck up a piece of pipe to get straps around
Super duty makes mine look weak😊
What’s yours?
Home made by me but out of 1/2” plate and has had many stiffening mods over the years if I wasn’t so busy I make one as robust as yours.
What the TIR over the full travel?
drill a decent size ,say an inch ,hole in the corner of the material you don't want then cut down to it with a horizontal bandsaw ,there will be some milling to tidy it up but you will be left with a nice radius in the corner and a useful offcut.
Could do, only thing is it’s 230mm wide so would be quite a deep hole to drill.
@@snowballengineering Not so far from either side but needs a bit of care setting up.
I like the idea of having the nice radius. Thanks for the suggestion.
I am not a machinist but is it more logical not to squeeze the opening first and mill it to size but do the opposite by cutting the split tag it bore it to size cut the tags so that it will fit and be very tight when tighten the bold?
I want it to spring open and be a loose fit when the bolt isn’t tightened so it’s easy to remove. I see what you’re saying, the bolt should tighten it down more than what I squeezed it down to machine it.
👍👍
You'll get a feel for the feed, but you nearly chipped the inserts putting the cutter down on the metal for the camera.
I’ll be more careful with it.
Time to break out the old Hand hack saw. Should only take a day or two.
A job where you need an apprentice 🤣
Heavy translates to accurate. But when you traversed the drill it went through an arc? Don't ask me how or why? If you're unhappy with the weight use the steel blocks as plugs for sand moulds and remake a set in aluminium. It's a heavy mission so we can all see this is just equipment to do the real work. I don't understand how the drill appears to make a gentle arc through the length of it's travel? If you figure it out I'm all ears?
Must be how it looks on the video? The rails have dead straight.
इसका।परइज।क्या।है।
You could fit a cheap Chinese DRO on that mill which would make life a tad easier and lessen the chance of making a mistake by not having to convert metric/imperial measurement units. 👍😁
Yes, I keep toying with the idea but I’d like a bigger mill really, had a few jobs now that wouldn’t fit.
@@snowballengineering You can always remove the DRO when you change the mill. I'm looking forward to the next instalment 😊 Can I ask where you are located
If you set your digital vernier up on that milling machine you won't have to look at them dials or convert British to metric...
☹🇬🇧
Pretty sure the Babylonians came up with the inches and the Romans added the 16ths in place of 12ths
@@danielboughton3624
Perhaps you should time travel back there then...
Then you'll feel less intimidated...
☹🇬🇧
@@glennmoreland6457 not following you there. You said the British as in they were the inventors and they for sure aren't. No clue why I would be intimidated.
@@danielboughton3624
Did I...?
Show please where I said the British were the inventors...
Help me to see it...
☹🇬🇧
go ask cutting edge engineering his on utube wen u get stuck he doses all sorts of shit
I’m not stuck, just always open to suggestions.
Hello from Ukraine brother
Hello. Hope you’re safe and well.