Watched this video several times and I just finished installing the tym 4 port rear remote on my new 2014 3515Ch tractor. Things were pretty much like the video here, except it being a cab model, the clearence of the inner most stud tthrough the back of the valves was pretty tight. Tight enough I wasn't sure I was going to get it the bolt perpendicular enough to get it started into the base. The two new valve bodies, and the existing "black body" and cap had to be installed all together i.e. the stud had to be inserted into all 3 peices before the stud could be started and tightened down, as there wasn't "clearance to get them on after the stud would have been tightend itself. Couldn't use the 2 nut method to tighten that stud (or the other for that matter" because not having the clearance to start both nuts on the bolt, initially, and really not enough exposed thread length to have both bolts on with all 3 valves on to begin with. Also had an issue with the levers up through and into the cab. After the lever assembly was tightened down, the detent lever was pressed hard against the wall of the cab, where it could not be operated. (I used a couple of washers between the lever mounting bracket that was bolted to the transmission and the lever assembly. But just in the innermost bolt as to kind of cock the assembly up and in essence tilt the levers inside the cab more towards center. So in short here was the simplified process for me. Again this is a newer cab model. 1. Remove fuel, tank. 2 Remove existing valve body as described. 3 Insert levers up through the "socks" into the cab. 4. Assemble all 3 valve assemblies onto the studs. The short threaded end of the stud has to be down and tightened itnto the body, or there will not be enough thread exposed through the top most valve to have a nut started on it. 5. Start the stud closest to you into the tractor. Probably can start it with just the fingers but it helps to have it in before trying to start the back stud to get an alignment. 6. Work to get the back stud started. It may take a little pressure away from you to get it upright enough to start. There will just be an inch or inch and a half of threads exposed and try to use your fingers to get it started. Once I got just a little clearance at the top I used a 1/2 inch nut for lamps to kind of get a jam on the threads because it is so thin. It stripped out fairly quickly. I though about grinding a nut down, and tacking a couple welds on the inside of the nut so it would be like a cap on the stud, but instead just used a pair of pliers to gently and tenderly tighten the stud without marring the threads too bad. 7 . The long threads end of the studs should be up to have enough exposed stud to tighten a nut down on. 8. Replaced fuel tank and trim peice, and clocked the valves like explained in the video. There is maybe a 1/4 inch clearance between the fuel tank and the small amount of bolt that sticks up through the tightend bolt. IF vibration and contact should become an issue with operation, I figure I can glue a flat peice of sheetmetal to the bottom of the tank. But yeah not that difficult of a job, just had to think about some of the issues to solve the problem. Video helped to see the process. Thank you
Great Video Tony. I have a 3620H and seriously thinking of adding a set of rear remotes, after seeing you add the kit and the simplicity of it I think I'll be able to tackle it myself.
Good job Tony.. I also have a back hoe for my T474..I see you have a draft control for your three point.. My tractor does not have a draft control.. I also have a cab on my 474.. I have quick couplers on my rear for the back hoe.. The control is a small lever sorta back from my shifter and three point lever.. It has a double detent so it will lock either way, like your detent lever.. I need to be cautious (as do you) that this lever does not get locked in one of the detent positions without anything hooked to it.. I enjoy the comfort of operating this tractor with a cab with heat and air.. The Kenwood stereo with blue tooth and remote control is awesome.. The one thing I do not care for is the size of the fuel tank.. Less than eight gallons.. Running a brush hog it will only go about four hours before needing to refuel.. I think that is very poor design.. Thanks again for your great videos..
An potential improvement to a two nut stud driver would to put a flat washer between the two nuts so that the socket does not go to far down. It is just a thought.
I just put this on my 4215. The reason the lever is tight is because you tightened the two bolts on top too tight (the ones on the studs, its actually deforming the inside of the valve. Just back those off 1/4 of a turn and it'll work perfect. The O-rings will still seal) ask me how I know. Anyways I have a top and side link on mine. How do I convert the detent to free float? My side link goes from highest to lowest and vice-versa in about 1 second flat hooked to those detent ports.
Toni, over the years I have owned two airplanes. One was a kit that I finished building. I used Loctite on almost everything, mostly blue but some red. Do you use that on any of your equipment? Thanks for another interesting video!
Great video, just a little more info would be helpful. Who makes the kit and what is the part number and price (at time of the video), or where can it be purchased?
Hey tony i have a branson 2515h with a back hoe i run alot of impletments but also use the backhoe alot is there any way to install rear remotes that still let me use the backhoe also thank you love your content!!!
@TonysTractorAdventure yeah i know. I think the only way to get dual remotes is to add the summit kit like you did on the tym before you got the big one, T264? I dont remember. I just remember you installing it so you could use the offset flail mower, which is why i want dual remotes on mine. I have some steep ditch and pond banks to mow, and im tired of the old craftsman high wheel string trimmer.
I still have power beyond through the valves. That is what the detent valve is for, but now I can operate rear implements that require hydraulic controls. I will have to change out one female quick connect on the backhoe and I am back in business.
Hey Tony I watched this video of u installing the dual rear remote kit for a TYM tractor, I was wanderin can u tell me how to get the same kit that would fit on a bobcat ct2023. Also can u help me and let me know how to order this kit. I’m thinkin it will fit my tractor. I might b wrong though
Sure, You can get a Summit electric over hydraulic kit. It is not the same, as hand control valves, but it will work in a pinch. Still, once you buy all the hoses, and adapters, it would be better to buy the factory kit. It will take a couple days finding all the fittings and hoses for an aftermarket kit. Kioti uses British pipe threads. Not as common.
You would have to call your dealer. There are different kids based upon which serial number your tractor is. They are very similar but there are some minor differences.
The benefit is that you have dual remotes which opens your tractor up to more implements. Many of the side ditch bank mowers required dual remotes. It also allows you to have a hydraulic top link and still keep one remote open for implements.
My god you two do remind me of my Wife and I god blessed you both and your family too maté great video as always thanks again c u on the Next one.
Thank you Joe. Happy Father's Day
@@TonysTractorAdventure and happy Father’s Day to you too mate.
I like that you will have an attached plug for the backhoe line rather than trying to push 2 hoses together to connect them.
Watched this video several times and I just finished installing the tym 4 port rear remote on my new 2014 3515Ch tractor. Things were pretty much like the video here, except it being a cab model, the clearence of the inner most stud tthrough the back of the valves was pretty tight. Tight enough I wasn't sure I was going to get it the bolt perpendicular enough to get it started into the base. The two new valve bodies, and the existing "black body" and cap had to be installed all together i.e. the stud had to be inserted into all 3 peices before the stud could be started and tightened down, as there wasn't "clearance to get them on after the stud would have been tightend itself. Couldn't use the 2 nut method to tighten that stud (or the other for that matter" because not having the clearance to start both nuts on the bolt, initially, and really not enough exposed thread length to have both bolts on with all 3 valves on to begin with.
Also had an issue with the levers up through and into the cab. After the lever assembly was tightened down, the detent lever was pressed hard against the wall of the cab, where it could not be operated. (I used a couple of washers between the lever mounting bracket that was bolted to the transmission and the lever assembly. But just in the innermost bolt as to kind of cock the assembly up and in essence tilt the levers inside the cab more towards center.
So in short here was the simplified process for me. Again this is a newer cab model.
1. Remove fuel, tank.
2 Remove existing valve body as described.
3 Insert levers up through the "socks" into the cab.
4. Assemble all 3 valve assemblies onto the studs. The short threaded end of the stud has to be down and tightened itnto the body, or there will not be enough thread exposed through the top most valve to have a nut started on it.
5. Start the stud closest to you into the tractor. Probably can start it with just the fingers but it helps to have it in before trying to start the back stud to get an alignment.
6. Work to get the back stud started. It may take a little pressure away from you to get it upright enough to start. There will just be an inch or inch and a half of threads exposed and try to use your fingers to get it started. Once I got just a little clearance at the top I used a 1/2 inch nut for lamps to kind of get a jam on the threads because it is so thin. It stripped out fairly quickly. I though about grinding a nut down, and tacking a couple welds on the inside of the nut so it would be like a cap on the stud, but instead just used a pair of pliers to gently and tenderly tighten the stud without marring the threads too bad.
7 . The long threads end of the studs should be up to have enough exposed stud to tighten a nut down on.
8. Replaced fuel tank and trim peice, and clocked the valves like explained in the video.
There is maybe a 1/4 inch clearance between the fuel tank and the small amount of bolt that sticks up through the tightend bolt. IF vibration and contact should become an issue with operation, I figure I can glue a flat peice of sheetmetal to the bottom of the tank.
But yeah not that difficult of a job, just had to think about some of the issues to solve the problem.
Video helped to see the process. Thank you
You Make it look easy!
Thank you my friend. It was well thought out.
Great Video Tony. I have a 3620H and seriously thinking of adding a set of rear remotes, after seeing you add the kit and the simplicity of it I think I'll be able to tackle it myself.
Yes, Sir. The dealer can get you the right kit.
Good job Tony.. I also have a back hoe for my T474..I see you have a draft control for your three point.. My tractor does not have a draft control.. I also have a cab on my 474.. I have quick couplers on my rear for the back hoe.. The control is a small lever sorta back from my shifter and three point lever.. It has a double detent so it will lock either way, like your detent lever.. I need to be cautious (as do you) that this lever does not get locked in one of the detent positions without anything hooked to it.. I enjoy the comfort of operating this tractor with a cab with heat and air.. The Kenwood stereo with blue tooth and remote control is awesome.. The one thing I do not care for is the size of the fuel tank.. Less than eight gallons.. Running a brush hog it will only go about four hours before needing to refuel.. I think that is very poor design.. Thanks again for your great videos..
None of the T474 have draft control. The T494/T574 has draft control. The fuel tank could be bigger, but it can be worked around.
@@TonysTractorAdventure I have open ears as to your suggestion to work around a small fuel tank..
An potential improvement to a two nut stud driver would to put a flat washer between the two nuts so that the socket does not go to far down. It is just a thought.
Easy install! Good job
Glad you like it!
Great install great video thanks Tony and Tanya
Glad you enjoyed it
I just put this on my 4215. The reason the lever is tight is because you tightened the two bolts on top too tight (the ones on the studs, its actually deforming the inside of the valve. Just back those off 1/4 of a turn and it'll work perfect. The O-rings will still seal) ask me how I know. Anyways I have a top and side link on mine. How do I convert the detent to free float? My side link goes from highest to lowest and vice-versa in about 1 second flat hooked to those detent ports.
Hello Tony, Great job on ALL of your RUclips videos. I checked on the part number for this kit it is TA00058978A about $900.00
Thank you. The price will vary from location to location, but you got us in the ballpark.
That is a slick set up
Thank you. I look forward to running through it.
Good information and illustration thanks Tony 👍🚜😎
Thank you
Thanks Tony another great video.
I like my rk 55 same as tym 554 cab it has been trouble free so far 719 hours 2018 model
Great job Tony!! 👍 Works excellent!
Thanks 👍
Nice kit! Looks like TYM stuff is easy to work on.
I think that is key to a tractor's longevity. After the warranty is gone, it needs to be easy to work on.
Nice clean setup, thanks
Glad you like it!
Nice piece of kit. Great video.
Thanks 👍
Nice job!
Very nice Tony, great video!👍🏻👍🏻
Glad you enjoyed it
This is an upgrade i would love to do to my 2515. I’m curious about the cost. Great video!
Reach out to your dealership. There are variations based upon your serial number.
Awesome stuff, as always
Thank you. Always having fun.
Awesome video, Tony. I have the BadBoy version of this tractor and will certainly be getting this kit. I'm wanting some hydraulic top link fun! :)
Price both Bad Boy and TYM. See who has the better price.
3:02 wonder if this kit would apply to my Branson 2515?
Absolutely
Good stuff my man 👍
Thank you Chad
Let's go Tony! New subscribers here!
Welcome aboard!
Where did you get this remote kit
You can order it from any dealer. It is an oem kit.
What's the smallest TYM tractor you can put this kit on? Btw thx for the vids!
Each tractor has its own kit. This kit fits the 2515, 3015, 3515, and 4015.
Toni, over the years I have owned two airplanes. One was a kit that I finished building. I used Loctite on almost everything, mostly blue but some red. Do you use that on any of your equipment? Thanks for another interesting video!
I do on certain things; however, it is not as widespread in the automotive areas. Even the manufacturer rarely uses it.
@@TonysTractorAdventure No reply necessary: In flight, the last thing you want is a bolt coming loose! :)
I can understand and appreciate that! You can't pull over. LOL! I envy you. I always wanted to learn to fly. I had a dream of building my own plane.
Same kit on my 2515. Did you ever find a way for the inner handle not to be so stiff?
I sprayed it with lubricating oil and it is broken in now. I don't even think of it any longer.
Hey Tony where did you get that remote kit?
My dealer ordered. OEM
Great vid. I like this tractor. What is the price for this exact kit?
I don't do prices on my channel. I hope you understand.
Great video, just a little more info would be helpful. Who makes the kit and what is the part number and price (at time of the video), or where can it be purchased?
All the information is in the video. It comes from the tractor manufacture. Any TYM dealer can order it.
Hey tony i have a branson 2515h with a back hoe i run alot of impletments but also use the backhoe alot is there any way to install rear remotes that still let me use the backhoe also thank you love your content!!!
The kit in this video. One spool has detent for the backhoe.
Where would one purchase this dual rear remote kit?
Your local dealer.
Do they make a kit like this for the t25? I like this style better than the electric over hydraulic summit kits.
The T25 comes standard with a single rear remote. A dual rear remote is not offered for a T25, OEM
@TonysTractorAdventure yeah i know. I think the only way to get dual remotes is to add the summit kit like you did on the tym before you got the big one, T264? I dont remember. I just remember you installing it so you could use the offset flail mower, which is why i want dual remotes on mine. I have some steep ditch and pond banks to mow, and im tired of the old craftsman high wheel string trimmer.
I just got a bad boy 4025 which is the same tractor this is just a factory kit? I need bad boy to send me one ill make a video 🙏
It is a factor kit. You could order it through your Local TYM dealer cheaper.
have you done a third function on this one?
Not yet. I may.
Can you speak a bit about why you chose to delete your power-beyond you were previously powering your back-hoe?
I still have power beyond through the valves. That is what the detent valve is for, but now I can operate rear implements that require hydraulic controls. I will have to change out one female quick connect on the backhoe and I am back in business.
Hey Tony I watched this video of u installing the dual rear remote kit for a TYM tractor, I was wanderin can u tell me how to get the same kit that would fit on a bobcat ct2023. Also can u help me and let me know how to order this kit. I’m thinkin it will fit my tractor. I might b wrong though
Your tractor is made by Kioti. You should be able to get your kit through the bobcat dealer or a Kioti dealer
So there is r a universal kit I can get for mine. I have checked at bobcat and the kit is 1000 bucks so I was hopin to get one a little cheaper
Sure, You can get a Summit electric over hydraulic kit. It is not the same, as hand control valves, but it will work in a pinch. Still, once you buy all the hoses, and adapters, it would be better to buy the factory kit. It will take a couple days finding all the fittings and hoses for an aftermarket kit. Kioti uses British pipe threads. Not as common.
that dog dont hunt :)
I have heard that saying my whole life, but I am not sure what you mean in this instance.
what is part # and where can i get one ?
You would have to call your dealer. There are different kids based upon which serial number your tractor is. They are very similar but there are some minor differences.
Work on a L3400 ?
I am not sure what you mean? This kit is specifically for this tractor. Kubota makes a kid for their tractors also.
2515 or 474 is it worth the extra money
Absolutely! The t474 is in a different world due to the additional horsepower.
@TonysTractorAdventure I ended up getting the 474 hydro with a cab and 3rd function kit from UTS in Buckley MI
Link to Amazon no longer working..
I just checked it, and it works.
What exactly is the benefit of this system?
The benefit is that you have dual remotes which opens your tractor up to more implements. Many of the side ditch bank mowers required dual remotes. It also allows you to have a hydraulic top link and still keep one remote open for implements.
16:23 😂