I just have to thank you for posting this! I remember a few years ago researching into installing a Ring doorbell in a home with an intercom system and the first video that came up was someone explaining why it not only _wasn'_t possible then, but _never would be_ , so I just gave up on the idea. Fast forward to yesterday, and I just replicated this setup (down to the model and brand of transformer and relay) for a client's home with a 20+-year-old M&S intercom system and I was elated when I plugged the transformer in and the Ring Pro actually powered up and rung throughout the house just like it was built that way. The only quirk (which you warn about in this video) is how the doorbell continuously triggers when the Ring first powers up, but that's only going to happen after a power outage, and it only lasts a few seconds. A very small price to pay in my book. I even found a purpose-built replacement metal plate for the old speaker/doorbell unit with holes pre-drilled to mount the Ring Pro on eBay for around $20. You couldn't ask for better results after a retrofit job.
Thank you so much for this information. I had a problem making the Nutone work with 24 volts. So I kept the nutone wired the same way it was with the existing 17 volt transformer. I made a 24 volt circuit with the new transformer that powers the ring pro and the relay. I simply connected the door chime leads that go to the door bell button to the relay. Everyone works so happily together.
Really appreciate you taking the time to make this video. Wife is so happy our Ring and M&S vintage intercom are playing well together...your instructions made it easy.
Thank you so much for this video! I studied this video for about a week now here and there in some rare spare time... Ordered all the parts, some terminal connectors, wire, the relay, and some terminal pads, and was able to connect it all up, and it works! I used the terminal pad to connect the transformer directly to the doorbell rather than a wirenut, which I suspect based on your photos you did the same thing. I was really worried that I was going to mess it up, but sure enough once it was all connected, it worked. There was a bit of bugginess at first, the chime didn't go off and the doorbell said poor voltage in the ring app, but after a few minutes that went away and says good voltage now, and the chime works just fine. Again, thanks for the video!
Just installed my Ring Pro connected to our Nutone Intercom. Worked absolutely perfect! Here are a couple of things to note: 1. When wiring to the relay (if using the same one he recommends), note the wiring at 11:00 minutes into the video so you can get it right the first time without having to test it. Also, my Ring Pro setup correctly right after powering it up, then updated itself and then wouldn't connect for the next hour or so. I called support and they said they wouldn't help until after an hour had passed. Apparently there is a battery in the unit which needs to charge to the proper level before the unit will connect properly after the initial setup. Crazy thing is while I was on the phone with support, my Ring Pro started working just fine (but it was more like 90 minutes of continuous connection to power. Thank you to Corgitronics for putting together this video of what we all knew could be done but Ring says is impossible!
I wanted to thank you for this video, you actually made my day especially the AC relay which saved my time instead of looking for rectifier and DC relay instead. I have used this on a similar product M&S Intercom system and LTS video doorbell product which is the same concept......THANK YOU AGAIN
can you please please put the video for Ring Video doorbell 3 Plus to connect the M&S System MC350A Master what kind of Relay & Transformer do i need to make it work if you want you can Email me @ maheshdpatel@aol.com Thank you
Thank you for this video! I have a Panasonic TA824 Advanced Hybrid System and I initially tried to swap out the existing door bell unit with a Ring Pro. There wasn't enough voltage on existing wires to power the Ring Pro so I was looking for a solution to connect it with my Panasonic system (I first called Ring and they said it is not compatible). I came across this video for a Nutone intercom but figured it should also work for my Panasonic system. I followed your instructions and connected two Ring Pros using two AC relays to the Panasonic system . Both Ring Pros are now powered and work with my existing system!
Nutone has one or two 18-16v transformers in built. I used the power from one of these transformers to drive my relay. Instead of the Ring Power module I used a 5 Ohm 20 watts resistor (cost less than $1). I used a small 12v DC relay (look for "12V DC SPDT Relay" Amazon) and connected the relay coil through an AC to DC converter bridge rectifier. (Electronics newbie should stick to an AC relay solution). Nutone transformer -+-> 4-diode bridge rectifier -+-> 12v DC relay coil || Relay drives the electronic bell by short circuiting the dry contacts of the relay. -+-> 5 Ohm 20 Watts resistor -+->
I got it all hooked up and it seems to work right but when I try to use the Door Talk intercome there is a loud buzzing and I can barely hear the other person. I'm using a Ring Pro 2 and only the 2 transformers that came with the Nutone. I have the Ring Pro 2 hooked up to one of the 18v transformers and it seems to work fine. Any suggestions please for how to stop the buzzing on the intercom?
Hi, the Ring din-rail power supply I received with my ring doorbell pro 2 has an 24v DC output. Do you know if this will work as well if I replace the relais for an 24v dc version? Well I tested it with the DC power supply and a DC relay and it doesn’t work. When I use an 24VAC power supply and the ring power kit it works as shown in the video Although sometimes the relais keeps switching and a power cycle is the only way to shut it down. Does anyone know why? The mechanical chime in the video draws about 1 amp. My relais only 0,14 amp. Could this have something to do with this?
Thank you so much for this video! Very well done, clearly explained, and it accomplishes what Ring says cant be done. I bought the transformer and relay you suggested and hooked everything up as described. The Ring Pro is powered and working. The relay only triggers some of the time, though. I only had Cat 4 cables already run to the door and am running the 24V through a pair of those each direction. Measuring the voltage, it shows 25V to the relay. I made sure the Ring app was set to Mechanical. Any tips on what I should do to troubleshoot would be appreciated. I’m probably going to buy a Ring Chime, but would rather have it ring through my intercom system.
The wiring should be sufficient for this to work. Check the health status of your Ring Pro, and for any updates. About a year ago they pushed an update to the Ring Pro that mostly disabled the ability to trigger the relay, and I had to call support and walk through everything and then they manually pushed an update that fixed it. You might check out my recent video on relays for getting the Ring to work, as there are some differences between relays. ruclips.net/video/xmeYzodpkfU/видео.html If you have a multimeter that can measure AC current, connect it into the circuit and see how much current is flowing when it triggers the relay at the end of the ring cycle.
hi, i am installing a ring pro 2 into my nutone im 3303 whole house intercom system , will your solution apply to this installation? if so, my questions are- do the original wires going to the chime module need to be disconnected and capped, or are they still used in companion with the additional relay and power supply. do the original transformers (2) remain connected ?
I have installed a video doorbell the last couple of days worked fine, I have added a 24VAC power supply behind the whole intercom system in the wall house to send power from there to the wires outside at the doorbell. But I have one problem with the intercom speakers humming inside the wall where the whole intercom system is, could that be from the 24VAC I have added, if so will it make a difference if I moved it around behind the system???
I have the Nutone as well. I only have the 2 thin wires going to the doorbell that the Nutone uses for its trigger board and light. Are these big enough to connect to the 24v transformer (or adapter plug)?? You have yours connected to multiple wires you had previously installed
Yes, it should work using those wires. It will have more voltage drop, but if you are using a 24V transformer (with at least 30VA) the RingPro should still get enough power. I am currently powering my RingPro with a 16V transformer and a 60 foot run of standard 2 conductor bell wire (the usual brown cable with red and white wires in it).
I am not certain, as the Arlo documentation isn't great. But, it should work the same for their "Essential Video Doorbell Wired". I hope this works for you. I had some Arlo cameras a couple of years ago, I won't have any more Arlo devices.
Corgitronics, is there enough room to mount and/or place both the transformer & relay that you showed in the Master Panel ??? The reason I ask is because I have grout all the way around the edges of my Nutone from the original build of my house, and I didn’t want to remove the grout if everything doesn’t fit because I have no idea what is behind the front cover. Your continuous feedback is much appreciated.
Not sure if there will be enough room. If it's an exterior wall then it may be filled with insulation. Also there's the issue of whether there's AC power, as usually the intercom's power transformers are mounted somewhere else, often near the main electrical panel. Since this particular intercom uses two big transformers, rumor has it that you can tap into one of those to power the RingPro.
Well, mine is installed at my previous home. If I recall, it is more than a resistor, possibly a constant current circuit. It could be replaced by a very large power resistor. You would need to measure the amount of current the Ring is using and then calculate the wattage, etc. I probably wouldn't want to install a big power resistor into a closed wall box, as it will get really hot in there. If you have a Ring Pro, it should have come with a power-kit, just use that.
I appreciate your schematic and followed your directions and replicated your results, however I am using a Eufy battery powered video doorbell which of course does not come with the Ring pro power kit (different manufacturer). As is, everything works as it should however every 30 seconds or so the relay will make a momentary humming for a few seconds. The humming annoys me so much that I have disconnected from the relay (and of course the intercom chime). I can only assume that this humming is when the Eufy video doorbell draws power to trickle charge it's built in battery, just like the Ring does. Also the Eufy has infrared emitters for night vision, again like the Ring. It's specs and operation seem to be very similar to the Ring video doorbell, but unlike the Ring there is no monthly fee to store video clips. If i purchase the Ring pro power kit and install per your diagram I am hoping it will solve the humming problem and work flawlessly with the Eufy. All I know to do is purchase a Ring pro power kit and try it, but Is there any reason you can think of that trying this idea could cause damage or problems to my equipment?
Hi Corgitronics - amazing video. How would the setup differ if I have 2 Ring Pro 2 doorbells instead of just 1? Do I need 2 relays or just 1? How do I wire them to mimic this circuit?
Corgitronics: This video plus the second one with more wiring details are fabulous! Thank you very much for all this detailed information! I have the Ring Video Pro and a Nutone IM3003 Intercom system (which I think is the same or similar to the Nutone in the video) that has a chime module, so I plan to implement your concept. I would appreciate your thoughts on the physical location of the Transformer and the Relay, however. The Master Panel for my Nutone is in the Kitchen, which is some distance away from the front door where the Video Pro will be located, so I am trying to determine the optimal locations for the 24V AC transformer and the 24V AC relay. I don't know how to take into account any impact of distance between and among the components involved here (the intercom system, the transformer, the relay, and the Video Pro). We have fairly frequent power outages due to storms, so my WiFi router is plugged into a standby UPS unit in a room that happens to be very close to the front door. Because the Video Pro does not have a backup battery, I felt it would be a good idea to also plug the new transformer into that same UPS unit. Assuming the Video Pro would be most affected by distance from the transformer, it also seems like having the transformer closer to the Video Pro unit would make sense. With respect to the relay and the Ring Power Pro unit, I can located either or both near the transformer in that room or inside the Kitchen wall space where the Nutone Master unit is located. Would one location be better than the other? The current 22 gauge 2-conductor solid wire that runs from the front door pushbutton to the Nutone unit is easily accessible in the attic above the room where the UPS is located, so accessibility of that wiring is not an issue. Again, thanks for the great videos and all the support comments you've provided.
Hi Corgitronics. I bought a 24V transformer and 24VAC relay and wired it to my M&S MC602 intercom. The Ring Pro powers up and functions fine, but it won't actuate the relay when the button is pressed. If I wire the relay to the normally closed contacts, the intercom chimes non-stop, so I have power to the relay. I have 2 pair of 22 AWG wires between the intercom and the Ring Pro, so am using two pair wired to one side of the transformer and the other two pair to the coil side of the relay. When I press the Ring button, the relay makes a small hum, but the contacts don't move. Any suggestions? Thanks
In the Ring menu for the device, under General Settings, check the Doorbell Chime Type, it may need to be set to Mechanical. Also, the relay may require too much power to trip, you can try this one: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NN5ABG2/ See my follow up video on suitable relays: ruclips.net/video/xmeYzodpkfU/видео.html
hey do u think i cound use a 9v*2vac 1amp transformer on my ring door bell 2 the original Heath Zenith EM57583H Wired Door Chime Transformer is damaged
With a Ring Doorbell 2 (not a Ring Pro), it should work with 2 9VAC transformers in series. It will even work with just 1, but you'll need a different relay, probably a 12VAC would work. If you try the two 9VAC transformers in series, you need to make sure that they are connected in phase or they will cancel each other out. If you're not getting the expected RMS voltage, just swap the connections on one of them. Note that the Ring 2 is rated for 8 - 24 VAC input, and those 9VAC transformers may be putting out 12-14VAC each at low load. So, doubling up on them might put the combined voltage over what Ring rates the unit for. On the Ring Doorbell 2, the transformer is just there to trickle charge the battery, when the doorbell is triggered it can use the battery for most of its power. I think I would either swap out the transformer for a 16 or 24 VAC one, or change relays and use only one 9VAC transformer.
@@Corgitronics ok thank you for the information because i was installing one couple days ago first time installing a door bell but have alot electrical n electronic experience so i connect the transformer to the wall outlet check with multi-meter was getting the right out voltage so i move on to connect the wire to the transformer for the bell i use the diode that i recieved in the ring 2 box after that the transformer started getting hot disconnect every ting then relase there was not output voltage from the transformer so figure the diode must hav cause it to shorted n damage the fuse in the transformer so i asked u bcus i would just go the electrical store n get a vac transformer instead buy a original one off the internet
I have a Ring Video Doorbell 3 (the one with the removable battery pack) can I use this same set up to hard wire my doorbell to keep my battery charged and still be able to chime my Nutone 3003 in the house?
I think this approach will work with the Ring 3. There are a few differences, such as the Ring 3 doesn't appear to need the "power kit". If you use the relay approach, your transformer might not supply a high enough voltage to trigger the relay, see my other video on that in the description above. You may also need to configure the unit for "mechanical chime" . You will find that under Device Settings --> General Settings, select the Doorbell Chime Type and select "mechanical".
Hey Corgitronics! Trying to setup the ring to my parents m&s intercom system. The system already has a transformer that converts the power to 16 vac and charges the ring unit just fine. However when we ring the doorbell it seems to enter into a endless loop with the intercom chime that has 1,2,or 3 chime options. The chime rings 16 times and then errors out on the intercom and the ring unit then stops receiving a charge. Would installing the relay resolve this issue? Or do I need the ring pro? Or maybe just simply changing the chime to the single option? Any help would be very appreciated. I also have links to the existing intercom, transformer and chime if it would help. Thanks so much and look forward to your reply!!
Adding the relay may solve this issue, but it sounds like a more complicated issue. I question whether the intercom's transformer has enough power (VA) to supply the intercom and the RingPro when it triggers. The RingPro uses quite a bit more power during the ring cycle, connecting to WiFi, streaming the video, etc. Try the relay first, if that doesn't fully solve the issue then also power the RingPro from a separate transformer (as shown in my video).
Corgitronics I hadn’t even considered another transformer, great idea!! Just to be clear, I am working with just the ring, not the ring pro. Do you think the ring pro has a higher probability of working with the intercom system than the standard ring? I can pick one up, no biggie. And lastly, I will try the relay for sure, should the 24vac coil you linked work fine although the transformer is 16vac? Thanks again, I really appreciate your time!!!
@@4E-P I'm really not familiar with the regular Ring doorbell, as it didn't suit my needs. I specifically selected the RingPro for it's ability to drive my existing doorbell. The relay that I show works fine with an 18 V AC transformer, but not so well at 16 V... I should probably do another video on that. If you add a transformer, get one for at least 18V, if the regular Ring will handle that.
@@Corgitronics I'm curious how to tie in the chimes on all the remote locations of an m&s system. Obviously the intercomm will not work anymore but what about the existing chimes?
I am trying to get my Ring Doorbell2 to work with a Hampton Bay wired/wireless option chime rated for 16VAC-10VA. I was going to buy the ELK TRG-2440 24VAC-40VA to work together. will this work? I dont have a relay or the "Ring power module" . help me out please Corgitronics!
Well, as luck would have it, see the video I published 10 days ago on relays to connect a Ring Doorbell2 to an electronic chime. ruclips.net/video/xmeYzodpkfU/видео.html Also, at about the 10:40 point I show using just the common 16VAC 10VA transformer. See the video, but you may just need to get the relay, and wait on upgrading the transformer.
It looks like this approach will work for the Nest Hello. Their documentation is a bit vague, but it looks like a similar setup. They provide a doorbell connector device that you will probably need to connect up in the same way that I show connecting the Ring Power Kit.
I have a ring 2 that I hard wired through my nutone system. I wired it with the exact relay you used in your videos. It works with one caveat. The relay chatters for about 5 seconds when the ring button is pushed. The relay also has a low hum to it at all times. Would you have any idea to why this is happening? My nutone system is powered by 2 18vac transformers, which are pushing 20vac each. I wired the ring 2 to just one transformer. Thank you
It sounds like there's a little too much current being pulled through the relay at idle. First a question, did you connect the PowerKit as shown at 3:48? If you have the power kit connected I can think of a few options: 1. Make sure the Ring's "Doorbell Chime Type" is set to "mechanical". See this article: www.pocnetwork.net/technology-news/troubleshooting-ring-doorbell-not-ringing-the-mechanical-chime-inside/ 2. Select a relay that uses higher current, this will force more power through the power kit. I tested some relays in another video, here: ruclips.net/video/xmeYzodpkfU/видео.html 3. Test out powering the Ring from a separate transformer, not the ones in the intercom.
hi, I want to pull in a 24vac relay on a time delay circuit, that will allow a 5 second hold on the relay. it works on the bench flawlessly, but when hooked to the Ring 2, it comes on for 5 sec, , then off for milliseconds, then back on. I am asking if this ring power kit would work in this situation to stop the relay from oscillating. if I take the time delay out of the circuit, the relay oscillates rapidly , basically, I have a 1928 crank wall phone that takes 90vac to ring, and am pulling in a 90v transformer to ring its ringer, hence the 5 seconds on.. my ring 2 did not come with a ring power kit v2
Let's see if I understand your goal: When the Ring is triggered, you need a relay to close for 5 seconds? Are you powering the timer circuit from the Ring? You may already be doing this, but I would have the timer circuit with its own power that is isolated from the Ring. Then use an AC relay connected to the Ring to trigger that timer circuit. So, there would be two relays: Ring -> Relay -> timer circuit -> Relay -> 90VAC bell power
@@Corgitronics yes, that is exactly what I have, I am running a 24vac time delay relay, thru an isolated relay( 24vac relay on a 16vac 40ah transformer. ) initially , I had the 24vac transformer ( 2.5 amps) , running both relays, but the first relay ( latching) would oscillate. so I added the 16vac xformer, and isolated the relay. the problem I have is with either transformer, the isolated relay, wants to buzz when the ring 2 is in the circuit. I tried several different 24vac relays for an isolated relay, but am having the same problem. I haven't tried placing a 1K resistor across the coil contacts of the isolated relay yet. when I hook up the ring 2 to a bell ( 16vac) with a solenoid, , it works fine, when I hook it up to a relay, it wants to buzz ( 16vac xformer) or oscillate ( 24vac xformer). I know I'm close and its probably something I am just overlooking. I even tried adding in the 24vac relay on the 16vac transformer into the bell circuit, and it buzzed at first and stopped after 10 seconds, but started buzzing all the time, after I reset power. I haven't tried putting the 24vac transformer on the isolated relay yet, and closing the time delay with the 16 vac... I know that with out the ring 2 inline, any of the 24vac relays pull in fine with 16vac transformer.. maybe TMI, I have an antique crank phone that requires 90vac to ring, so I have a 3rd transformer( 120/90) in the circuit that powers the phone ringer thru the TD relay, the cool factor is great, just need to get past this little hang up( pun intended) your help is appreciated.
@@johnashbaugh9795 It sounds like you're on the right track. I'm traveling this week, so I don't have access any equipment. Do you have details on the delay relay (like a spec sheet) ?
@@Corgitronics I can get one in the morning, its an IDEC relay and not sure what the other is.. update, I added a 1k resistor across the relay coil, no change, I put in series and the relay wouldn't pull in, but didn't hum .the relay has a low frequency hum. it pulls about 33 ma when the button is pressed, and about 8ma when charging, I've left the relay and ring energized for several hours and its not heating up, just not sure how long it will last with the hum, the circuit works fine except the humming.. I know its a voltage leak thru the coil. I'm thinking I would start with a 10 ohm, and go up in series, the relay didn't hum when the resistor was in series. maybe use a resistive pot and see where it works best and still pull in, and add a resistor in line with the coil.. the transformer Is putting out a consistent 18.75VAC. I can send a video or schematic if needed.
Corgitronics - Great video , I am trying to do exactly as per video - I thought the module i had was a Pro power kit but no i was given a Doorbell Bypass kit - any idea where I can get a Pro Power Kit
I'm not familiar with the bypass kit. Ring's customer service is generally very good, you should contact them and ask for the Pro Power Kit. It might be the same, or nearly the same thing.
@@Corgitronics Hi , RING tell me that the BYPASS or the PRO POWER Kit are the Same , Reading the resistance on my BYPASS Module its 0 ohms , not sure what the Module does as it seems not to work , when the module is put across the relay the relay powers up "Click sound " sound but only 6v Volts on the Rind Pro so it does not fully power up. Does the power kit or the bypass kit have any active or passive component ?. Thank you for your time in the above reply. RS
Ramesh Sanghani hi Ramesh. I’m trying to work through the same thing here in the UK, where they only supply the ‘bypass’ kit. If you peel the sticker back slightly you’ll see the other connector that would make it the regular pro power kit. I haven’t had chance to set this up yet, but I have all the bits required and hoping to try in the next few days. I opened the ‘bypass’ kit/unit and there is definitely some electronic trickery in there. My guess is that by using the bypass mode, the current required to power a chime solenoid is prevented from passing through. So you will have to use the normal pro power port (again, just a guess). I’m hoping that the ability to chime and existing chime isn’t disabled in the firmware/software for EU/UK devices.
Ramesh Sanghani I’ve now verified that this solution works a treat, even with the UK system. You need to not use the bypass port on the pro power kit, and use the port that is shown in this video. Works perfectly! Thank you so much @Corgitronics!
? I have a musical digital chime which worked with the ring pro for about a year and then suddenly stopped.. it’s compatible with the ring and works without the ring door bell connected to it with a diode.. what do you think the deal is with this? Will the relay work? This has been killing me for awhile.. it seems like there’s no power to the chime when ring is connected..
That happened to me for a while in September. It turns out that Ring pushed a software update that had a bug in it causing the unit to not trigger the bell at the end of its cycle. I had to call Ring support and work with them a bit, they had to get a technician to manually push an update to my unit.
Corgitronics, I have the Nutone IMA 3303 and I'm wondering whether I can use one of its existing transformers (which I believe are 16V 30Va) to power a video doorbell. I'm concerned though that the existing wiring running from the master unit to the porch location may be insufficient. It is 6 wire cable (consisting of 3 twisted pairs). Only 2 of the twisted pairs are currently in use for the Nutone porch bell/speaker. I think the twisted pairs look like 22 gauge wires. I note in your video that you used 2 twisted pairs from your Cat5 on each terminal of the Ring. That wouldn't be an option for me obviously as I only have 3 pairs total in my intercom wiring. Running new wiring to the porch unit would be very difficult as the Nutone box is in brick. Thoughts?
I ended up using 3 strands of the 22 gauge wire to each terminal and it worked fine. Device health shows good on the Ring app. I'm powering the Ring from one of the Nutone's 16V 30VA transformers.
I wired this up for a Ring Elite to an M&S intercom. Works, but the relay has a constant hum. I think the Ring device is allowing some current to flow. Any ideas?
Hmm, the Ring Elite is quite different and doesn't need to draw power from the chime itself. The Ring Elite must be allowing some power to continuously flow, not enough to trigger a mechanical chime, but is enough to hear in the more sensitive relay. You could place a power resistor across the relay's coil terminals to bypass some of the power. It's difficult to provide any good advice on this for you, but perhaps some large power resistors (10 - 20 watts) and try different resistances starting with at least 1K - 2K Ohms? I would not want the resistors to get very warm. Many of these relays will trigger on only 50mA, which isn't enough for a mechanical chime to even notice.
Did you do this? I just finished installing mine and was able to get it to work just like he said. It took a bit of studying the video because he zooms so far in that it's hard to tell what is connected where.
How exactly does the 24v A/C relay allow you to run power to the Nutone chime that typically requires D/C current? I’m very unfamiliar with electronics but I’ve always thought that it would require a dedicated A/C to D/C converter to make something like this work properly.
The relay isolates the 24VAC from the intercom. I have a follow up video that goes into more detail about the relay and its connections: ruclips.net/video/hd68roYUDng/видео.html
Corgitronics is the Master Panel the one where the radio is at, or, are you referring to a different place ? Also, I do have the type that when the doorbell is currently pushed it sounds exactly like the one in your video.
Yes, the master is the one with the radio in it. At 15:56 you can see the two terminals that I connected to. Your system probably has the doorbell button connected to those same terminals, as mine did.
Just want to confirm that replace existing transformer with 24 volt unit in your video or do you install 24 volt in addition to 16 volt. Wanting to do this with Audiotech 450 intercom system
I replaced the existing transformer, as it would not have had enough power to run the Ring Pro properly. You can use a 16 V transformer if you get a relay that will work at the lower voltage. Here's my follow up video on other relays: ruclips.net/video/xmeYzodpkfU/видео.html
@@Corgitronics Thanks, the videos are very informative. I am looking at using a Ring Pro and the distance from main panel to doorbell/Ring is about 30' so adding 10' for going up and down walls lets call 40'. Do you see a problem with keeping with the 16v transformer if I use the Uxcell relay that tested best in your video.
By hooking up the Ring Pro exactly the way you show on the video, will I lose any functions at all on my Nutone Intercom System (such as the ability to talk via the intercom to the front door from any room that has Nutone in it ?), also, does this affect my home alarm system at all by diving into these wires ???
This connects to the door chime terminals (if you have the chime module) in the master intercom panel and should not affect the door intercom or other functions.
Very nice video, thanks. Is the software set to No-Doorbell when you are using the 24VAC relay across the Ring power resistor (no mechanical doorbell)?
I don't quite understand the question. There aren't any changes involved to the software or settings on the RingPro. The relay just replaces the mechanical/solenoid doorbell, and provides a contact output to trigger an electronic chime.
The question is: In the Ring App, under "Doorbell Kit Settings", with house mechanical chime removed from the circuit and the 24VAC relay in parallel with "Ring Power Pro Kit 2", is the App set to "Mechanical", "Digital" od "None"?
Corgitronics I have a Nutone type intercom doorbell replacing with ring pro. 4 wires 2 ring the chime other 2 speaker wires. If I power the ring with the speaker wires and then connect the chime wires to ring as well - would this work without the relay ? thanks
Not really. As you can see in the video the RingPro only has the two connections. It triggers the chime by briefly shorting out the connection. And, it's unlikely that the NuTone will be able to supply enough power to run the RingPro
I have a NuTone IM-3303, is there a way to mount the extra components inside the box of the NuTone, alternatively if I would like to bypass the nuTone all together can I use the existing wiring and components for the Ring? My Ring Pro came with Chime Pro. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
You can use the intercom's existing doorbell wires to power the RingPro, but the main issue is the Ring Pro doorbell needs a lot of power, a lot more than your intercom's transformers can supply. So, you'll need to disconnect the doorbell wires from the intercom and get that AC transformer's power up into the intercom's space. I'd suggest just plugging the transformer in to a nearby outlet and running the wire along the baseboard to the same wall cavity as the intercom, run it into the wall through a small hole, and pull it up to the intercom. If the intercom is mounted in an interior wall, then you should have enough room to mount the relay and wiring behind the intercom. My intercom master is mounted in an exterior wall and is full of fiberglass insulation, so I couldn't really do that.
Corgitronics, Thank you!! Yes, I have an outlet nearby and luckily a couch in front of it so it will hide the transformer. That will appease my wife :) So if I would like to keep my intercom working I can add the relay and the transformer and that should solve the issue correct?
I have the general idea of how to do this but I am not an electrician so if you could detail the steps that would be helpful. I am ordering the transformer, terminal strip and 24V relay from Amazon, I am just a bit confused on which wires go where. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
Yes, but you would probably need to use a separate relay for each Ring Pro doorbell, otherwise the Ring units will draw too much power through a single relay.
how could I connect an existing old chime to a new wifi doorbell? (not ring) wondering if there a way I could just solder the 2 wires to the push button inside the wifi doorbell
Thank you! I am trying to install Ring Door Bell 1 to work with Nutone IM-3303 electronic chime and this provides very useful info. Where can I buy the Pro Power kit?
I'm not sure the Ring Video doorbell 1 can trigger the chime. But, it can be powered by an external AC transformer: support.ring.com/hc/en-us/articles/205180710-How-to-Connect-Your-Ring-Video-Doorbell-Directly-to-a-Low-Voltage-Transformer-Without-a-Pre-existing-Doorbell- In reading that article, it looks like you need a 25 Ohm wire-wound resistor (see their link), and you might be able to connect that across the relay that I show in the video. Basically, just replace the "power kit" with the 25 Ohm resistor. It needs to be a high power resistor, they specify a 50 Watt resistor.
@@Corgitronics Thank you for your quick reply!!! I thought the relay could act like a mechanical chime so I was going to wire the relay just like how one would do for the mechanical chime. Of course I would not need to use the diode. If the relay load is not high enough, I might need the 25 ohm resistor?
@@Corgitronics I installed 25 ohm resistor in parallel with the relay and it works! I tried using one of the two Nutone transformers and ~16 VAC didn't trigger the relay switch although it was enough to power up the Ring Door Bell. I added 24VAC/40VA transformer and everything works fine. Thanks for your help again!
The intercome wires shown here: ruclips.net/video/4ZFl6BRTQnA/видео.html connect across the Normally Open (N.O.) and Common (C) terminals on the relay, as shown here: ruclips.net/video/4ZFl6BRTQnA/видео.html For further clarification, see the video on relay connections listed in the description above: ruclips.net/video/4ZFl6BRTQnA/видео.html
Thanks for getting back to me appreciate it. I kind of get what you’re saying about the blue and white/blue wires.. I’m just wondering if you connected them to the relay cause in the still photo of the box all I see coming out of the relay are the purple wires I’m assuming thats the power coming? I bought everything that you have in the video relay, plugin transformer and the terminal strip.. I also have another question could I up grade the factor transformer from 16volts to a 24v and use that to power the ring pro?
@@Thebadman1680 The Purple wires connect the relay coil to the two contacts that would go to the traditional mechanical chime (with the PowerKit attached to those terminals as well). You can use a 24VAC transformer to power the RingPro (like I did), but don't use that to power the intercom, only use the correctly rated 16VAC transformers to power the NuTone system.
@@Corgitronics ..awesome thankyou....The Nutone IM-4406...has two 18v transformers. I believe I can actually tap into one as power source to Ring Pro and the other can run the chime...., while using your circuit...
@@emccabe1964 That might work, since the IM-44-6 uses 72VA transformers. The Ring Pro needs 20VA (sporadically), so it could add too much load. When you connect the RingPro to the transformer, monitor the transformer's output voltage to see if it sags, particularly during the ring cycle. Once the Ring is up and running you can use the app to check the device health.
@@Corgitronics - what about eliminating the pro power pack as a jumper? Wouldn't that reduce the amps and or put it in series with the relay.....a little extra resistance?
So no one has responded to the question I posted 3 days ago. Of course this is a rather old video, the last comment posted was over a year ago. For anyone who might read these comments in the future, I ordered the ring pro kit v3 on Amazon for just $1.99 and added it across the power terminals of the relay as recommended in the video to see if it would solve the problem I was having. Previously I installed a Eufy battery powered video doorbell. The Eufy was able to connect to my relay and ring the chime module in my intercom, however I would hear the relay hum for a few seconds every minute or so. Anker (Eufy) customer service was unable to help me resolve the hum and suggested that I not use it with my wired doorbell system. I had installed my Eufy doorbell to my intercom according to the directions in this video, however the video highlights the Ring video doorbell and installed using the Ring pro power kit. Since Eufy does not offer a similar gadget for their doorbell and instructed me that they were unable to resolve the hum issue, I decided to order a Ring pro power kit and try it with the Eufy. Wow! It now works flawlessly with no more hum. For anyone who may have the exact same circumstances this will allow you to follow this video with your Eufy equipment.
Hi dear, So I have it setup the way you described in the video (Except i have not connected the Pro Power kit or any register) but the relay actuate right away with power on and without pressing button on Ring Pro, when I press the button on ring pro, makes no difference. do i need Pro Power kit? any idea? Please help. (note: i measured about 21 volt on relay coil without pressing Ring Pro Button) I used "uxcell AC24V Coil Red Indicator Light 8 Pin DPDT Electromagnetic General Purpose Power Relay" and "Honeywell AT140A1000 40Va, 120V Transformer" Thanks
Yes, you will need to use the Pro Power Kit. The Ring Pro uses enough current in standby mode that it will energize the relay continuously, the power kit allows most of that power to bypass the relay coil. It sounds like you have the right relay and transformer, just need to add the power kit.
Dear Corgitronics with the pro kit installed, it works, also is it normal that when we power on Bell, the relay stayed actuated (On) for few second and then turn-off (in that case, if power out and in at night, the door bell will ring for few second at night) let me know if i am doing anything wrong Thanks
@@pateljitu28I'm glad it's working for you! The relay will trigger when the Ring Pro powers up, that's due to the heavy current draw of the Ring Pro as it starts up. I explain this at 10:18 in the video.
Thank you for your video. I completed my system as you described. I just have one issue. When I push the ring doorbell, the nutone chime plays twice. This didn't happen originally, but now does it every time. Does this mean I should remove the diode on the nutone button?
Well, that's a new one to me. Let's confirm which model you're using, as the Ring Pro comes with a Power Kit (as shown in this video) , I don't believe it comes with a diode. The relay fully isolates the Ring doorbell from the intercom's chime circuit, so you shouldn't need the diode at all. But, I'm doubtful that removing the diode will solve this double triggering issue. After the electronic chime rings, how long is it until it rings again? Is this a Ring Doorbell 2, or a Ring Pro?
I found my problem. Actually 2 problems. The first was that the ring pro I had must have been a newer model. It had support built in for electronic chimes. You could choose between mechanical and electronic. If you chose electronic, it lets you specify the length of the chime. The default was 10 seconds, which allowed it to play twice. I changed it to mechanical since that was what was assumed I was trying to make work. I was disappointed to find that it then would only play for a second or two. But I remembered they use a diode to make sure the chime has enough power to play all the way. I had the relay connected to the wires going to the old Nutone doorbell, which then went to the chime. Knowing a diode only lets power flow in one direction, I swapped the lines, and bingo, everything works now. So with the new ring pro I probably didn't need the separate transformer and relay, but not all chimes are the same length, so I prefer this setup. Thank you for your help and video.
First off... Thank you very much for taking the time to do these two videos. They are very informative and much appreciated. I am trying to install the Ring Doorbell Pro into a NuTone intercom system. It has two 16V transformers installed. Because of the location, I would rather not have an external transformer powering the doorbell. Would it be possible to replace one of the 16V transformers with a 24V and then wire it up with the relay per your instructions? I wonder what the impact of 24V on the rest of the NuTone chime system would be?
I'm not sure that I'd give 24 Volts to the Nutone, you may be able to power the RingPro off of one of the NutTone's transformers. It kind of depends on the intercom model. Also, I'm not sure which of the two transformers would be the best to use... might connect an Amp meter (DMM set to Amps), and see how much power the intercom is using from each transformer. You could replace one of the existing 16 V transformers with a transformer that has a higer VA rating but is still 16 V. Something like this 50VA unit: www.amazon.com/PWS-1650-Supply-Adapter-Transformer-terminals/dp/B06XRM9QZ3/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=16+volt+transformer&qid=1551937937&s=gateway&sr=8-8 Or this 75 VA industrial beast www.amazon.com/Siemens-MT0075C-Industrial-Transformer-Secondary/dp/B0052MY318/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?keywords=16+volt+transformer+75VA&qid=1551937986&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmr0
@@Corgitronics Thanks for the help. I ended up just disconnecting the chimes in my NuTone intercom system and wiring the ring directly to the installed 16V transformer. The Ring Doorbell Pro rings through the Ring Chime. I like your solution, but did not have room behind the intercom to fit the relay and I did not want an external transformer because my NuTone control panel is on the wall in the kitchen. Thanks again for taking the time to make this video.
A few questions: Does it chatter all of the time, or only when the Ring is triggered? Are you using an AC relay, the typical DC relay will chatter. Are you using a 24VAC transformer with a 24VAC relay? The typical 16VAC transformer won't reliably trigger a 24VAC Relay. Also, is the Ring Pro set to "Mechanlical" under Device Settings --> General Settings --> Doorbell Chime Type ?
@@Corgitronics I'm using the elk 24v ac transformer, with the 24v ac relay you suggested on Amazon. It chatters immediately, when I check the voltage before I connect the ring on the opposite side of the coil it's 26.6v then when I connect the lead to the ring the voltage drops to about 10.6v on the load side. Is my power kit bad? The relay functions properly without the devices connected I've checked.
@@SuperHondaFitDriver It might be the power kit, I bet they'll send you a new one. Just tell them the doorbell solenoid is being held in the whole time, they should understand that. I really can't think of anything else that could be going on. Now, all of that said, remember that the Ring will pull a lot of current for about 30 seconds at power up. Also, make sure you've set the Ring Pro to use a mechanical chime as I mentioned in my last post.
@@Corgitronics Ok sounds about right, I'll make sure I call them. Hopefully that's it. I did all the settings in the app so I'll see once I get the new power kit.
I have a Nutone IM3303 and I no longer use the intercom system, I just use its chime. Can the Ring or Ring 2 be wired so that the Nutone chime will work with it?
It might, I don't have the Ring 2, but I might have one in a month or so. I haven't read much about the Ring 2, but if the installation instructions say that it can trigger a mechanical (solenoid) chime, then this approach should work fine. Note that if you are using a 16 Volt transformer, then you won't be able to reliably trigger a 24 V relay, you'll need to use a 16 V (AC) relay instead.
@@TaylorYork86 12V AC relay would do, as it's powered up for a very short period of time and there is no chance to overheat: www.amazon.com/dp/B00YTW5Q0E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vL6IDbGCNVF7R
Hi Corgitronics. First of all thank you very much for this very informative video. I just move in to my new home (not really new coz it was built in 2001 and i'm the second owner) that has the m&s mc602 intercom that has master unit/speaker and remote scan/speaker in every room. I just bought last Thanksgiving sale a ring pro. I want to integrate this to the existing mc606 if possible wherein when a visitor push either button (doorbell button of mc602 or ring pro) it will activate both units. Will this be possible? If its not too much to ask, can you make a video for this setup with detailed step by step instruction/guide including lists of additional parts needed and where to buy them. I know im not the only person who will benefit for such instructional video. Thank you in advance.
I can't find any information about the M&S MC602 intercoms, but if the doorbell button connects directly to the chime board on the intercom then you should be able to follow the same approach. On the current M&S chime boards there are contacts such as COM, 1-NOTE, 2-NOTE, 3-NOTE. Just connect the relay's contacts to the same contacts that the doorbell button is connected to. Your chime board may look similar to this one, manufacturers usually don't change these much over the years: www.homecontrols.com/homecontrols/products/pdfs/MS-MnSSystems/MSMC3_Manual.pdf Be sure to watch my short follow-up video about the relay connections: ruclips.net/video/hd68roYUDng/видео.html Now, for the second part of that... having the regular button trigger the Ring Pro... that would require going into the Ring Pro and connecting to the internal contacts of it's button. That might not be too hard to do, but I haven't dismembered my Ring Pro to see.
Thank you for your reply. Still trying to find somebody willing to install it. If I can't find one I might try to install it myself and hope I won't burn my house... lol!
Hello again corgitronics. Pls be patient with me because up to now i haven't found one willing to give the connection a try. Im having problem with the hook up on the main intercom system because the transformer has a TE5B (primary 120v 50/60 hz and dual secondary output of 16v 37va). From the transformer enclosure box (two 16v dual output) comes out 5 multicolored lead wires that connects to the main ms602 board and some wires connects back to the chime module where the door push button wires are connected. My issues are: if im gonna replace the 16v transformer to 24v, how will i do the connection of those 5 different collored output wires and will it not burn the other devices connectec because of the increase in voltage? imgur.com/gallery/S5Pxs6K this is how the transformer look like. The te5d (stock picture i got on the internet) is the same as mine its just that the te5b is 16v while the te5d is 16.5. I can't find a stock photo of te5b). i.imgur.com/PJropS9.png imgur.com/gallery/mEjVcqM link for the wiring guide for mc602 intercom system. imgur.com/gallery/79V7R9E Link for some of the photos of my intercom system. If you are willing and kind enough to help me with a step by step connection guide and solve the connection issues pls feel free to pm me at chard2005rivera@comcast.net. willing to send $100 check to compensate your trouble. It's not much and might even offend some professionals like you but i think its better than nothing. Pls help me with the connection. Thank you in advance. I have the parts needed with if the set up is like the one on your video and i also bought a honeywell transformer (24vac 40va in case we decide to replace the existing transformer and mount it on the enclosure box. Thanks I forgot to mention that in your video " how to connect ac relay" i noticed you did bundled-connection of the wires of the push button and wires of the speaker on the fron door outlet. Since my transformer has dual 16volt output, will that create a problem?
The relay may not be necessary with the Elite, as it provides a pair of contacts for the existing doorbell. However, the instructions don't specify whether it can only work with a low voltage AC or will also work with a DC signal like an intercom. If it only works with an AC signal, then this approach should work just fine.
@@Corgitronics Great video! What I found on the Elite is, the Ring Elite is compatible with most AC-powered bells operating between 8-24 volts. Unfortunately, the Ring Video Doorbell Elite is not compatible with wireless bells or any bell/intercom system using a DC transformer. So, it sounds like this would work to the Intercom doorbell button using the relay you suggested - does that sound right? Could I possibly use a smaller relay?
@@grtessman Yes, I think this approach would work, I'm not sure about a "smaller" relay. You can use one of these AC relays without the socket, which will make it a lot smaller, you just need to crimp or solder the connections. This and perhaps other options might make for a good video. But, I have just moved and the new lab is still getting setup.
@@Corgitronics Thank you again for your reply. What I meant by smaller relay was more about using something nearer a 10v relay instead of pressing the boundaries of 24v since the Ring Elite is capable of operating. 8-24v. Does amps matter since PoE (IEEE 802.3af) is power over ethernet and what powers the Ring Elite? I can't imagine it would carry very many amps. As for size with the socket, that won't be an issue for me with 2"x6" wall depth I would prefer to use it with the socket. I'll be trigging the chime button for my Nutone IMA4406.
@@grtessman Based on their documentation and the diagram on page 5 of the installation manual, it doesn't appear that the Ring Elite needs any power from the doorbell transformer. I expect that their circuitry expects that the doorbell connection be AC, but is likely quite tollerant of lower voltages. I think that you could get by with 16VAC from the intercom's transformer and a 12VAC relay like www.amazon.com/Baomain-Power-Relay-PTF08A-Socket/dp/B00YTW5Q0E Although the relay is only 12V, the amount of time that is on to ring the bell is quite short... but putting a small fuse inline would be a good idea just to protect things.
I'm looking at the video minute 5 and it appears that the Ring powers up and stabilizes at 0.150 Amps when connected to the mechanical doorbell with the Ring PPK attached. However, at Minute 11 or so when you power it up using the relay, it's only using .003 Amps and a peak of .008 when the relay is energized. I can't figure out what I'm missing - I can't see all of the connections on the table demo, but when I hook up my relay, transformer, etc my Ring is still pulling .150 Amps through the relay after it's booted up and never deactivating the relay. Can you explain the difference in amps from minute 5 vs minute 11 ?
At the 5 minute mark I am testing with a mechanical (solenoid) doorbell, and all of the power for the RingPro is passing through the doorbell's solenoid. At the 11 minute mark I am testing with the relay, and only measuring the power passing through the relay, the rest of the power is passing through the "power kit" provided by Ring.
@@Corgitronics Fantastic, Makes sense. I tried just the relay www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NN5ABG2/ with a 24 VAC transformer and the "power kit" (as shown in your schematic) and for some reason, my Ring Pro would never fully boot up. When I use just a 16 VAC transformer and no relay, it boots up fine. The Ring Pro powers up with the relay in the circuit, but I always get some variant of the flashing LED (left, top or right) as if it's underpowered. It's a 24 VAC 30 VA relay and the relay closes with no buzzing. I'm not sure what's going on - perhaps a bad power kit because my current mechanical doorbell "buzzez / vibrates" even after the ring is fully powered. I thought I'd install the relay to get rid of the buzz and perhaps go to a digital doorbell later. If the "power kit", which I understand is a resistive circuit is bad, it would make sense that the mechanical doorbell buzzes and I guess make sense that the relay never disengages or the Ring doesn't boot up. I appreciate your input.
@@jsfarmes I think that the power kit is actually more than just a resistor, but I haven't taken one apart to check it out. Also, in the Ring App, under "Doorbell Kit Settings", make sure the "doorbell type" is set to "mechanical"
Greetings all.. Could anyone provide a simple wiring diagram. I have a Nutone system like the video.. I assume you cut into the wiring going to the Nutone door bell
There is a diagram at 12:09 ruclips.net/video/4ZFl6BRTQnA/видео.html and at 15:56 I show the connections to the intercom board ruclips.net/video/4ZFl6BRTQnA/видео.html
Could you share a few photos showing the relay wiring? I don't see where the NuTone blue and white wires are connected on the relay. Maybe those weren't hooked up yet in the still photos.
Curtis J: I have just uploaded a video showing details about the connections to the relay. I hope this covers everything. ruclips.net/video/hd68roYUDng/видео.html
Corgitronics do you know of a relay that works with a 16V AC transformer? my ring pro works fine connected directly to my 16V transformer but i do want to add the nutone electronic chime if possible. i can’t seem to find a relay that works at 16V AC
Thanks for the video... Just to clarify..... Ring Video Doorbell Pro If i get that relay and use the pro power kit across the coil, i don't need the 25ohm 50 watt resistor mentioned on the ring's website thanks in advance
@@Corgitronics Hi There So I have it setup the way you described in the video but the relay won't actuate when I press the ring pro... Not sure what is going on but any idea... I checked the relay directly and it works but not in conjunction with the ring pro.. Thanks
@@sagarsamrat1108 Check the settings for the RingPro, make sure that the setting for Doorbell Type is set to Mechanical. Here's their FAQ: support.ring.com/hc/en-us/articles/115002791966-Setting-Up-Your-Ring-Video-Doorbell-Pro-in-the-Ring-App Failing that, check the voltages (with the meter set to AC), and make sure the diode isn't installed.
The products tend to change regularly, but in this more recent video I show a few from Amazon that you can search for. ruclips.net/video/xmeYzodpkfU/видео.html
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I just have to thank you for posting this! I remember a few years ago researching into installing a Ring doorbell in a home with an intercom system and the first video that came up was someone explaining why it not only _wasn'_t possible then, but _never would be_ , so I just gave up on the idea.
Fast forward to yesterday, and I just replicated this setup (down to the model and brand of transformer and relay) for a client's home with a 20+-year-old M&S intercom system and I was elated when I plugged the transformer in and the Ring Pro actually powered up and rung throughout the house just like it was built that way. The only quirk (which you warn about in this video) is how the doorbell continuously triggers when the Ring first powers up, but that's only going to happen after a power outage, and it only lasts a few seconds. A very small price to pay in my book.
I even found a purpose-built replacement metal plate for the old speaker/doorbell unit with holes pre-drilled to mount the Ring Pro on eBay for around $20. You couldn't ask for better results after a retrofit job.
Thank you so much for this information. I had a problem making the Nutone work with 24 volts. So I kept the nutone wired the same way it was with the existing 17 volt transformer. I made a 24 volt circuit with the new transformer that powers the ring pro and the relay. I simply connected the door chime leads that go to the door bell button to the relay.
Everyone works so happily together.
I’m having trouble trying to figure out on how to wire my ring pro to my nutone can you please explain it on a dumb down version lol thanks
Really appreciate you taking the time to make this video. Wife is so happy our Ring and M&S vintage intercom are playing well together...your instructions made it easy.
That's great!
Corgitronics
Can you email the instructions on how to install my ring pro to my nutone IM3303
Thank you so much for this video! I studied this video for about a week now here and there in some rare spare time... Ordered all the parts, some terminal connectors, wire, the relay, and some terminal pads, and was able to connect it all up, and it works! I used the terminal pad to connect the transformer directly to the doorbell rather than a wirenut, which I suspect based on your photos you did the same thing. I was really worried that I was going to mess it up, but sure enough once it was all connected, it worked. There was a bit of bugginess at first, the chime didn't go off and the doorbell said poor voltage in the ring app, but after a few minutes that went away and says good voltage now, and the chime works just fine. Again, thanks for the video!
That's great!
I just used your process with the parts listed on my early 2000's Nutone system. Works like a charm! Thanks for the tutorial.
could I email you questions
Just installed my Ring Pro connected to our Nutone Intercom. Worked absolutely perfect! Here are a couple of things to note: 1. When wiring to the relay (if using the same one he recommends), note the wiring at 11:00 minutes into the video so you can get it right the first time without having to test it. Also, my Ring Pro setup correctly right after powering it up, then updated itself and then wouldn't connect for the next hour or so. I called support and they said they wouldn't help until after an hour had passed. Apparently there is a battery in the unit which needs to charge to the proper level before the unit will connect properly after the initial setup. Crazy thing is while I was on the phone with support, my Ring Pro started working just fine (but it was more like 90 minutes of continuous connection to power. Thank you to Corgitronics for putting together this video of what we all knew could be done but Ring says is impossible!
I wanted to thank you for this video, you actually made my day especially the AC relay which saved my time instead of looking for rectifier and DC relay instead. I have used this on a similar product M&S Intercom system and LTS video doorbell product which is the same concept......THANK YOU AGAIN
can you please please put the video for Ring Video doorbell 3 Plus to connect the M&S System MC350A Master
what kind of Relay & Transformer do i need to make it work if you want you can Email me @
maheshdpatel@aol.com
Thank you
Thank you for this video! I have a Panasonic TA824 Advanced Hybrid System and I initially tried to swap out the existing door bell unit with a Ring Pro. There wasn't enough voltage on existing wires to power the Ring Pro so I was looking for a solution to connect it with my Panasonic system (I first called Ring and they said it is not compatible). I came across this video for a Nutone intercom but figured it should also work for my Panasonic system. I followed your instructions and connected two Ring Pros using two AC relays to the Panasonic system . Both Ring Pros are now powered and work with my existing system!
Congratulations! I'm glad it's working, and thank you for the feedback.
Thanks for providing this solution. I was not sure how I could make this work!
Thank you so much for this detailed video. It worked great. Much appreciated..
Nutone has one or two 18-16v transformers in built. I used the power from one of these transformers to drive my relay. Instead of the Ring Power module I used a 5 Ohm 20 watts resistor (cost less than $1). I used a small 12v DC relay (look for "12V DC SPDT Relay" Amazon) and connected the relay coil through an AC to DC converter bridge rectifier.
(Electronics newbie should stick to an AC relay solution).
Nutone transformer -+-> 4-diode bridge rectifier -+-> 12v DC relay coil || Relay drives the electronic bell by short circuiting the dry contacts of the relay.
-+-> 5 Ohm 20 Watts resistor -+->
I got it all hooked up and it seems to work right but when I try to use the Door Talk intercome there is a loud buzzing and I can barely hear the other person. I'm using a Ring Pro 2 and only the 2 transformers that came with the Nutone. I have the Ring Pro 2 hooked up to one of the 18v transformers and it seems to work fine. Any suggestions please for how to stop the buzzing on the intercom?
My transformer is rated at 24V, 40VA. Would I still need power pack to use existing chime?
yes, use a 5 ohm 20 watt resistor Instead. 10 watt would also work but 20 is safer for low heating up.
Hi, the Ring din-rail power supply I received with my ring doorbell pro 2 has an 24v DC output. Do you know if this will work as well if I replace the relais for an 24v dc version?
Well I tested it with the DC power supply and a DC relay and it doesn’t work. When I use an 24VAC power supply and the ring power kit it works as shown in the video
Although sometimes the relais keeps switching and a power cycle is the only way to shut it down. Does anyone know why? The mechanical chime in the video draws about 1 amp. My relais only 0,14 amp. Could this have something to do with this?
This worked great. Thanks fo your help. Gene Roddenbury was correct. Visual learning will be available to everyone.
Can you do a Video on the MS MC602 connecting to Ring?
Thank you so much for this video! Very well done, clearly explained, and it accomplishes what Ring says cant be done.
I bought the transformer and relay you suggested and hooked everything up as described. The Ring Pro is powered and working. The relay only triggers some of the time, though. I only had Cat 4 cables already run to the door and am running the 24V through a pair of those each direction. Measuring the voltage, it shows 25V to the relay.
I made sure the Ring app was set to Mechanical.
Any tips on what I should do to troubleshoot would be appreciated.
I’m probably going to buy a Ring Chime, but would rather have it ring through my intercom system.
The wiring should be sufficient for this to work. Check the health status of your Ring Pro, and for any updates. About a year ago they pushed an update to the Ring Pro that mostly disabled the ability to trigger the relay, and I had to call support and walk through everything and then they manually pushed an update that fixed it.
You might check out my recent video on relays for getting the Ring to work, as there are some differences between relays. ruclips.net/video/xmeYzodpkfU/видео.html
If you have a multimeter that can measure AC current, connect it into the circuit and see how much current is flowing when it triggers the relay at the end of the ring cycle.
hi,
i am installing a ring pro 2 into my nutone im 3303 whole house intercom system , will your solution apply to this installation? if so, my questions are-
do the original wires going to the chime module need to be disconnected and capped, or are they still used in companion with the additional relay and power supply.
do the original transformers (2) remain connected ?
I have installed a video doorbell the last couple of days worked fine, I have added a 24VAC power supply behind the whole intercom system in the wall house to send power from there to the wires outside at the doorbell. But I have one problem with the intercom speakers humming inside the wall where the whole intercom system is, could that be from the 24VAC I have added, if so will it make a difference if I moved it around behind the system???
Sorry the humming part was my mistake it was lose on the surface but once I screwed it to the surface all went perfect.
I have the Nutone as well. I only have the 2 thin wires going to the doorbell that the Nutone uses for its trigger board and light. Are these big enough to connect to the 24v transformer (or adapter plug)?? You have yours connected to multiple wires you had previously installed
Yes, it should work using those wires. It will have more voltage drop, but if you are using a 24V transformer (with at least 30VA) the RingPro should still get enough power. I am currently powering my RingPro with a 16V transformer and a 60 foot run of standard 2 conductor bell wire (the usual brown cable with red and white wires in it).
Do you know if installing this relay will allow the arlo wired doorbell to work with a nutone electronic door bell also?
I am not certain, as the Arlo documentation isn't great. But, it should work the same for their "Essential Video Doorbell Wired".
I hope this works for you. I had some Arlo cameras a couple of years ago, I won't have any more Arlo devices.
Corgitronics, is there enough room to mount and/or place both the transformer & relay that you showed in the Master Panel ??? The reason I ask is because I have grout all the way around the edges of my Nutone from the original build of my house, and I didn’t want to remove the grout if everything doesn’t fit because I have no idea what is behind the front cover. Your continuous feedback is much appreciated.
Not sure if there will be enough room. If it's an exterior wall then it may be filled with insulation. Also there's the issue of whether there's AC power, as usually the intercom's power transformers are mounted somewhere else, often near the main electrical panel.
Since this particular intercom uses two big transformers, rumor has it that you can tap into one of those to power the RingPro.
Can you tell me the resistance of the power pack? Can i just use a cheap resistor or does it have any other purpose?
Well, mine is installed at my previous home. If I recall, it is more than a resistor, possibly a constant current circuit. It could be replaced by a very large power resistor. You would need to measure the amount of current the Ring is using and then calculate the wattage, etc. I probably wouldn't want to install a big power resistor into a closed wall box, as it will get really hot in there. If you have a Ring Pro, it should have come with a power-kit, just use that.
I appreciate your schematic and followed your directions and replicated your results, however I am using a Eufy battery powered video doorbell which of course does not come with the Ring pro power kit (different manufacturer). As is, everything works as it should however every 30 seconds or so the relay will make a momentary humming for a few seconds. The humming annoys me so much that I have disconnected from the relay (and of course the intercom chime). I can only assume that this humming is when the Eufy video doorbell draws power to trickle charge it's built in battery, just like the Ring does. Also the Eufy has infrared emitters for night vision, again like the Ring. It's specs and operation seem to be very similar to the Ring video doorbell, but unlike the Ring there is no monthly fee to store video clips. If i purchase the Ring pro power kit and install per your diagram I am hoping it will solve the humming problem and work flawlessly with the Eufy. All I know to do is purchase a Ring pro power kit and try it, but Is there any reason you can think of that trying this idea could cause damage or problems to my equipment?
Hi Corgitronics - amazing video. How would the setup differ if I have 2 Ring Pro 2 doorbells instead of just 1? Do I need 2 relays or just 1? How do I wire them to mimic this circuit?
The setup is the same for each. You will need 2 relays, and separate transformers to power each Ring Pro, or one big transformer.
I already have a 24VAC/40VA transformer so no issues for power
Corgitronics: This video plus the second one with more wiring details are fabulous! Thank you very much for all this detailed information! I have the Ring Video Pro and a Nutone IM3003 Intercom system (which I think is the same or similar to the Nutone in the video) that has a chime module, so I plan to implement your concept. I would appreciate your thoughts on the physical location of the Transformer and the Relay, however. The Master Panel for my Nutone is in the Kitchen, which is some distance away from the front door where the Video Pro will be located, so I am trying to determine the optimal locations for the 24V AC transformer and the 24V AC relay. I don't know how to take into account any impact of distance between and among the components involved here (the intercom system, the transformer, the relay, and the Video Pro).
We have fairly frequent power outages due to storms, so my WiFi router is plugged into a standby UPS unit in a room that happens to be very close to the front door. Because the Video Pro does not have a backup battery, I felt it would be a good idea to also plug the new transformer into that same UPS unit. Assuming the Video Pro would be most affected by distance from the transformer, it also seems like having the transformer closer to the Video Pro unit would make sense.
With respect to the relay and the Ring Power Pro unit, I can located either or both near the transformer in that room or inside the Kitchen wall space where the Nutone Master unit is located. Would one location be better than the other? The current 22 gauge 2-conductor solid wire that runs from the front door pushbutton to the Nutone unit is easily accessible in the attic above the room where the UPS is located, so accessibility of that wiring is not an issue.
Again, thanks for the great videos and all the support comments you've provided.
Hi Corgitronics. I bought a 24V transformer and 24VAC relay and wired it to my M&S MC602 intercom. The Ring Pro powers up and functions fine, but it won't actuate the relay when the button is pressed. If I wire the relay to the normally closed contacts, the intercom chimes non-stop, so I have power to the relay. I have 2 pair of 22 AWG wires between the intercom and the Ring Pro, so am using two pair wired to one side of the transformer and the other two pair to the coil side of the relay. When I press the Ring button, the relay makes a small hum, but the contacts don't move. Any suggestions? Thanks
In the Ring menu for the device, under General Settings, check the Doorbell Chime Type, it may need to be set to Mechanical.
Also, the relay may require too much power to trip, you can try this one: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NN5ABG2/
See my follow up video on suitable relays: ruclips.net/video/xmeYzodpkfU/видео.html
@@Corgitronics Thanks so much Corgitronics. I bought the relay you suggested and now everything is working. Great videos!
hey do u think i cound use a 9v*2vac 1amp transformer on my ring door bell 2 the original Heath Zenith EM57583H Wired Door Chime Transformer is damaged
With a Ring Doorbell 2 (not a Ring Pro), it should work with 2 9VAC transformers in series. It will even work with just 1, but you'll need a different relay, probably a 12VAC would work.
If you try the two 9VAC transformers in series, you need to make sure that they are connected in phase or they will cancel each other out. If you're not getting the expected RMS voltage, just swap the connections on one of them.
Note that the Ring 2 is rated for 8 - 24 VAC input, and those 9VAC transformers may be putting out 12-14VAC each at low load. So, doubling up on them might put the combined voltage over what Ring rates the unit for.
On the Ring Doorbell 2, the transformer is just there to trickle charge the battery, when the doorbell is triggered it can use the battery for most of its power.
I think I would either swap out the transformer for a 16 or 24 VAC one, or change relays and use only one 9VAC transformer.
@@Corgitronics ok thank you for the information because i was installing one couple days ago first time installing a door bell but have alot electrical n electronic experience so i connect the transformer to the wall outlet check with multi-meter was getting the right out voltage so i move on to connect the wire to the transformer for the bell i use the diode that i recieved in the ring 2 box after that the transformer started getting hot disconnect every ting then relase there was not output voltage from the transformer so figure the diode must hav cause it to shorted n damage the fuse in the transformer so i asked u bcus i would just go the electrical store n get a vac transformer instead buy a original one off the internet
I have a Ring Video Doorbell 3 (the one with the removable battery pack) can I use this same set up to hard wire my doorbell to keep my battery charged and still be able to chime my Nutone 3003 in the house?
I think this approach will work with the Ring 3. There are a few differences, such as the Ring 3 doesn't appear to need the "power kit". If you use the relay approach, your transformer might not supply a high enough voltage to trigger the relay, see my other video on that in the description above.
You may also need to configure the unit for "mechanical chime" . You will find that under Device Settings --> General Settings, select the Doorbell Chime Type and select "mechanical".
Hey Corgitronics! Trying to setup the ring to my parents m&s intercom system. The system already has a transformer that converts the power to 16 vac and charges the ring unit just fine. However when we ring the doorbell it seems to enter into a endless loop with the intercom chime that has 1,2,or 3 chime options. The chime rings 16 times and then errors out on the intercom and the ring unit then stops receiving a charge. Would installing the relay resolve this issue? Or do I need the ring pro? Or maybe just simply changing the chime to the single option? Any help would be very appreciated. I also have links to the existing intercom, transformer and chime if it would help. Thanks so much and look forward to your reply!!
Adding the relay may solve this issue, but it sounds like a more complicated issue.
I question whether the intercom's transformer has enough power (VA) to supply the intercom and the RingPro when it triggers. The RingPro uses quite a bit more power during the ring cycle, connecting to WiFi, streaming the video, etc.
Try the relay first, if that doesn't fully solve the issue then also power the RingPro from a separate transformer (as shown in my video).
Corgitronics I hadn’t even considered another transformer, great idea!! Just to be clear, I am working with just the ring, not the ring pro. Do you think the ring pro has a higher probability of working with the intercom system than the standard ring? I can pick one up, no biggie. And lastly, I will try the relay for sure, should the 24vac coil you linked work fine although the transformer is 16vac? Thanks again, I really appreciate your time!!!
@@4E-P I'm really not familiar with the regular Ring doorbell, as it didn't suit my needs. I specifically selected the RingPro for it's ability to drive my existing doorbell.
The relay that I show works fine with an 18 V AC transformer, but not so well at 16 V... I should probably do another video on that.
If you add a transformer, get one for at least 18V, if the regular Ring will handle that.
@@Corgitronics I'm curious how to tie in the chimes on all the remote locations of an m&s system. Obviously the intercomm will not work anymore but what about the existing chimes?
I have a Ring 3, it has a battery and hookups on the back for direct power. Does anyone here know if it will work with the same circuit?
I'm looking to do this with another brand doorbell. What would I need to buy to mimic the ring pro resistor? Thank you!
I am trying to get my Ring Doorbell2 to work with a Hampton Bay wired/wireless option chime rated for 16VAC-10VA. I was going to buy the ELK TRG-2440 24VAC-40VA to work together. will this work? I dont have a relay or the "Ring power module" . help me out please Corgitronics!
Well, as luck would have it, see the video I published 10 days ago on relays to connect a Ring Doorbell2 to an electronic chime. ruclips.net/video/xmeYzodpkfU/видео.html
Also, at about the 10:40 point I show using just the common 16VAC 10VA transformer.
See the video, but you may just need to get the relay, and wait on upgrading the transformer.
Why do we need the ring "power mod"?
I test it without and it works fine.
Great video. I have the exact Nutone you showed in the video. Do you know if the same solution would work for the Nest Hello doorbell? Thanks, Robert
It looks like this approach will work for the Nest Hello. Their documentation is a bit vague, but it looks like a similar setup. They provide a doorbell connector device that you will probably need to connect up in the same way that I show connecting the Ring Power Kit.
I have a ring 2 that I hard wired through my nutone system. I wired it with the exact relay you used in your videos. It works with one caveat. The relay chatters for about 5 seconds when the ring button is pushed. The relay also has a low hum to it at all times. Would you have any idea to why this is happening? My nutone system is powered by 2 18vac transformers, which are pushing 20vac each. I wired the ring 2 to just one transformer. Thank you
It sounds like there's a little too much current being pulled through the relay at idle. First a question, did you connect the PowerKit as shown at 3:48?
If you have the power kit connected I can think of a few options:
1. Make sure the Ring's "Doorbell Chime Type" is set to "mechanical". See this article: www.pocnetwork.net/technology-news/troubleshooting-ring-doorbell-not-ringing-the-mechanical-chime-inside/
2. Select a relay that uses higher current, this will force more power through the power kit. I tested some relays in another video, here: ruclips.net/video/xmeYzodpkfU/видео.html
3. Test out powering the Ring from a separate transformer, not the ones in the intercom.
I did not use a power kit since it’s a ring 2.
Were you able to figure this out? I am having the same problem. The relay chatters when the button is pushed and no chime sound.
This video appeared after but I’ve ordered a 24v contactor as I had this idea to.
hi, I want to pull in a 24vac relay on a time delay circuit, that will allow a 5 second hold on the relay. it works on the bench flawlessly, but when hooked to the Ring 2, it comes on for 5 sec, , then off for milliseconds, then back on. I am asking if this ring power kit would work in this situation to stop the relay from oscillating. if I take the time delay out of the circuit, the relay oscillates rapidly , basically, I have a 1928 crank wall phone that takes 90vac to ring, and am pulling in a 90v transformer to ring its ringer, hence the 5 seconds on.. my ring 2 did not come with a ring power kit v2
Let's see if I understand your goal: When the Ring is triggered, you need a relay to close for 5 seconds? Are you powering the timer circuit from the Ring?
You may already be doing this, but I would have the timer circuit with its own power that is isolated from the Ring. Then use an AC relay connected to the Ring to trigger that timer circuit. So, there would be two relays: Ring -> Relay -> timer circuit -> Relay -> 90VAC bell power
@@Corgitronics yes, that is exactly what I have, I am running a 24vac time delay relay, thru an isolated relay( 24vac relay on a 16vac 40ah transformer. ) initially , I had the 24vac transformer ( 2.5 amps) , running both relays, but the first relay ( latching) would oscillate. so I added the 16vac xformer, and isolated the relay. the problem I have is with either transformer, the isolated relay, wants to buzz when the ring 2 is in the circuit. I tried several different 24vac relays for an isolated relay, but am having the same problem. I haven't tried placing a 1K resistor across the coil contacts of the isolated relay yet. when I hook up the ring 2 to a bell ( 16vac) with a solenoid, , it works fine, when I hook it up to a relay, it wants to buzz ( 16vac xformer) or oscillate ( 24vac xformer). I know I'm close and its probably something I am just overlooking. I even tried adding in the 24vac relay on the 16vac transformer into the bell circuit, and it buzzed at first and stopped after 10 seconds, but started buzzing all the time, after I reset power. I haven't tried putting the 24vac transformer on the isolated relay yet, and closing the time delay with the 16 vac... I know that with out the ring 2 inline, any of the 24vac relays pull in fine with 16vac transformer.. maybe TMI, I have an antique crank phone that requires 90vac to ring, so I have a 3rd transformer( 120/90) in the circuit that powers the phone ringer thru the TD relay, the cool factor is great, just need to get past this little hang up( pun intended) your help is appreciated.
@@johnashbaugh9795 It sounds like you're on the right track. I'm traveling this week, so I don't have access any equipment. Do you have details on the delay relay (like a spec sheet) ?
@@Corgitronics I can get one in the morning, its an IDEC relay and not sure what the other is.. update, I added a 1k resistor across the relay coil, no change, I put in series and the relay wouldn't pull in, but didn't hum .the relay has a low frequency hum. it pulls about 33 ma when the button is pressed, and about 8ma when charging, I've left the relay and ring energized for several hours and its not heating up, just not sure how long it will last with the hum, the circuit works fine except the humming.. I know its a voltage leak thru the coil. I'm thinking I would start with a 10 ohm, and go up in series, the relay didn't hum when the resistor was in series. maybe use a resistive pot and see where it works best and still pull in, and add a resistor in line with the coil.. the transformer Is putting out a consistent 18.75VAC. I can send a video or schematic if needed.
Corgitronics - Great video , I am trying to do exactly as per video - I thought the module i had was a Pro power kit but no i was given a Doorbell Bypass kit - any idea where I can get a Pro Power Kit
I'm not familiar with the bypass kit. Ring's customer service is generally very good, you should contact them and ask for the Pro Power Kit. It might be the same, or nearly the same thing.
@@Corgitronics Hi , RING tell me that the BYPASS or the PRO POWER Kit are the Same , Reading the resistance on my BYPASS Module its 0 ohms , not sure what the Module does as it seems not to work , when the module is put across the relay the relay powers up "Click sound " sound but only 6v Volts on the Rind Pro so it does not fully power up. Does the power kit or the bypass kit have any active or passive component ?. Thank you for your time in the above reply. RS
Ramesh Sanghani hi Ramesh. I’m trying to work through the same thing here in the UK, where they only supply the ‘bypass’ kit. If you peel the sticker back slightly you’ll see the other connector that would make it the regular pro power kit.
I haven’t had chance to set this up yet, but I have all the bits required and hoping to try in the next few days.
I opened the ‘bypass’ kit/unit and there is definitely some electronic trickery in there. My guess is that by using the bypass mode, the current required to power a chime solenoid is prevented from passing through. So you will have to use the normal pro power port (again, just a guess).
I’m hoping that the ability to chime and existing chime isn’t disabled in the firmware/software for EU/UK devices.
Ramesh Sanghani I’ve now verified that this solution works a treat, even with the UK system. You need to not use the bypass port on the pro power kit, and use the port that is shown in this video.
Works perfectly! Thank you so much @Corgitronics!
? I have a musical digital chime which worked with the ring pro for about a year and then suddenly stopped.. it’s compatible with the ring and works without the ring door bell connected to it with a diode.. what do you think the deal is with this? Will the relay work? This has been killing me for awhile.. it seems like there’s no power to the chime when ring is connected..
That happened to me for a while in September. It turns out that Ring pushed a software update that had a bug in it causing the unit to not trigger the bell at the end of its cycle. I had to call Ring support and work with them a bit, they had to get a technician to manually push an update to my unit.
Corgitronics, I have the Nutone IMA 3303 and I'm wondering whether I can use one of its existing transformers (which I believe are 16V 30Va) to power a video doorbell. I'm concerned though that the existing wiring running from the master unit to the porch location may be insufficient. It is 6 wire cable (consisting of 3 twisted pairs). Only 2 of the twisted pairs are currently in use for the Nutone porch bell/speaker. I think the twisted pairs look like 22 gauge wires. I note in your video that you used 2 twisted pairs from your Cat5 on each terminal of the Ring. That wouldn't be an option for me obviously as I only have 3 pairs total in my intercom wiring. Running new wiring to the porch unit would be very difficult as the Nutone box is in brick. Thoughts?
I ended up using 3 strands of the 22 gauge wire to each terminal and it worked fine. Device health shows good on the Ring app. I'm powering the Ring from one of the Nutone's 16V 30VA transformers.
@@Loach402 does your nutone chime work with the ring?
I wired this up for a Ring Elite to an M&S intercom. Works, but the relay has a constant hum. I think the Ring device is allowing some current to flow. Any ideas?
Hmm, the Ring Elite is quite different and doesn't need to draw power from the chime itself. The Ring Elite must be allowing some power to continuously flow, not enough to trigger a mechanical chime, but is enough to hear in the more sensitive relay. You could place a power resistor across the relay's coil terminals to bypass some of the power. It's difficult to provide any good advice on this for you, but perhaps some large power resistors (10 - 20 watts) and try different resistances starting with at least 1K - 2K Ohms? I would not want the resistors to get very warm. Many of these relays will trigger on only 50mA, which isn't enough for a mechanical chime to even notice.
Any feedback? Pls advise otherwise I’m contemplating returning the ring pro.
Thanks.
Did you do this? I just finished installing mine and was able to get it to work just like he said. It took a bit of studying the video because he zooms so far in that it's hard to tell what is connected where.
How exactly does the 24v A/C relay allow you to run power to the Nutone chime that typically requires D/C current? I’m very unfamiliar with electronics but I’ve always thought that it would require a dedicated A/C to D/C converter to make something like this work properly.
The relay isolates the 24VAC from the intercom. I have a follow up video that goes into more detail about the relay and its connections: ruclips.net/video/hd68roYUDng/видео.html
Corgitronics is the Master Panel the one where the radio is at, or, are you referring to a different place ? Also, I do have the type that when the doorbell is currently pushed it sounds exactly like the one in your video.
Yes, the master is the one with the radio in it. At 15:56 you can see the two terminals that I connected to. Your system probably has the doorbell button connected to those same terminals, as mine did.
Video Shonda video how to hook up a doorbell ring
Just want to confirm that replace existing transformer with 24 volt unit in your video or do you install 24 volt in addition to 16 volt. Wanting to do this with Audiotech 450 intercom system
I replaced the existing transformer, as it would not have had enough power to run the Ring Pro properly. You can use a 16 V transformer if you get a relay that will work at the lower voltage. Here's my follow up video on other relays: ruclips.net/video/xmeYzodpkfU/видео.html
@@Corgitronics Thanks, the videos are very informative. I am looking at using a Ring Pro and the distance from main panel to doorbell/Ring is about 30' so adding 10' for going up and down walls lets call 40'. Do you see a problem with keeping with the 16v transformer if I use the Uxcell relay that tested best in your video.
@@grtalley7443 That wire length should not be an issue, as long as the transformer is capable of delivering ast least 30VA.
By hooking up the Ring Pro exactly the way you show on the video, will I lose any functions at all on my Nutone Intercom System (such as the ability to talk via the intercom to the front door from any room that has Nutone in it ?), also, does this affect my home alarm system at all by diving into these wires ???
This connects to the door chime terminals (if you have the chime module) in the master intercom panel and should not affect the door intercom or other functions.
Very nice video, thanks. Is the software set to No-Doorbell when you are using the 24VAC relay across the Ring power resistor (no mechanical doorbell)?
I don't quite understand the question. There aren't any changes involved to the software or settings on the RingPro. The relay just replaces the mechanical/solenoid doorbell, and provides a contact output to trigger an electronic chime.
The question is: In the Ring App, under "Doorbell Kit Settings", with house mechanical chime removed from the circuit and the 24VAC relay in parallel with "Ring Power Pro Kit 2", is the App set to "Mechanical", "Digital" od "None"?
Mine is set to mechanical.
Corgitronics I have a Nutone type intercom doorbell replacing with ring pro. 4 wires 2 ring the chime other 2 speaker wires. If I power the ring with the speaker wires
and then connect the chime wires to ring as well - would this work without the relay ?
thanks
Not really. As you can see in the video the RingPro only has the two connections. It triggers the chime by briefly shorting out the connection. And, it's unlikely that the NuTone will be able to supply enough power to run the RingPro
I have a NuTone IM-3303, is there a way to mount the extra components inside the box of the NuTone, alternatively if I would like to bypass the nuTone all together can I use the existing wiring and components for the Ring? My Ring Pro came with Chime Pro. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
You can use the intercom's existing doorbell wires to power the RingPro, but the main issue is the Ring Pro doorbell needs a lot of power, a lot more than your intercom's transformers can supply. So, you'll need to disconnect the doorbell wires from the intercom and get that AC transformer's power up into the intercom's space. I'd suggest just plugging the transformer in to a nearby outlet and running the wire along the baseboard to the same wall cavity as the intercom, run it into the wall through a small hole, and pull it up to the intercom.
If the intercom is mounted in an interior wall, then you should have enough room to mount the relay and wiring behind the intercom. My intercom master is mounted in an exterior wall and is full of fiberglass insulation, so I couldn't really do that.
Corgitronics, Thank you!! Yes, I have an outlet nearby and luckily a couch in front of it so it will hide the transformer. That will appease my wife :) So if I would like to keep my intercom working I can add the relay and the transformer and that should solve the issue correct?
What terminal strip will I need? Is 15A enough?
I have the general idea of how to do this but I am not an electrician so if you could detail the steps that would be helpful. I am ordering the transformer, terminal strip and 24V relay from Amazon, I am just a bit confused on which wires go where. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
@@albertomascaro552 Yes, that should all work. You might test it all out before drilling a hole in the wall :-)
Will this relay connection scheme work with an Artolier C8633 by Emerson?
It looks like it will work. This provides a dry contact closure, simulating a doorbell button.
Can you do 2 db’s w/this setup?
Yes, but you would probably need to use a separate relay for each Ring Pro doorbell, otherwise the Ring units will draw too much power through a single relay.
how could I connect an existing old chime to a new wifi doorbell? (not ring) wondering if there a way I could just solder the 2 wires to the push button inside the wifi doorbell
I would not connect a mechanical 16VAC chime to a wifi doorbell that isn't designed for it.
Thank you! I am trying to install Ring Door Bell 1 to work with Nutone IM-3303 electronic chime and this provides very useful info. Where can I buy the Pro Power kit?
I'm not sure the Ring Video doorbell 1 can trigger the chime. But, it can be powered by an external AC transformer: support.ring.com/hc/en-us/articles/205180710-How-to-Connect-Your-Ring-Video-Doorbell-Directly-to-a-Low-Voltage-Transformer-Without-a-Pre-existing-Doorbell-
In reading that article, it looks like you need a 25 Ohm wire-wound resistor (see their link), and you might be able to connect that across the relay that I show in the video. Basically, just replace the "power kit" with the 25 Ohm resistor. It needs to be a high power resistor, they specify a 50 Watt resistor.
@@Corgitronics Thank you for your quick reply!!! I thought the relay could act like a mechanical chime so I was going to wire the relay just like how one would do for the mechanical chime. Of course I would not need to use the diode. If the relay load is not high enough, I might need the 25 ohm resistor?
@@benc.7419 You will almost certainly need the resistor, and do not use the diode.
@@Corgitronics Got it. I will update once I finish my installation. Thanks again!
@@Corgitronics I installed 25 ohm resistor in parallel with the relay and it works! I tried using one of the two Nutone transformers and ~16 VAC didn't trigger the relay switch although it was enough to power up the Ring Door Bell. I added 24VAC/40VA transformer and everything works fine. Thanks for your help again!
Where do the blue and white wires connect to from the nutone?? Do they connect to the relay cause I didn’t see them connected in your picture
The intercome wires shown here: ruclips.net/video/4ZFl6BRTQnA/видео.html connect across the Normally Open (N.O.) and Common (C) terminals on the relay, as shown here: ruclips.net/video/4ZFl6BRTQnA/видео.html
For further clarification, see the video on relay connections listed in the description above: ruclips.net/video/4ZFl6BRTQnA/видео.html
Thanks for getting back to me appreciate it. I kind of get what you’re saying about the blue and white/blue wires.. I’m just wondering if you connected them to the relay cause in the still photo of the box all I see coming out of the relay are the purple wires I’m assuming thats the power coming? I bought everything that you have in the video relay, plugin transformer and the terminal strip.. I also have another question could I up grade the factor transformer from 16volts to a 24v and use that to power the ring pro?
@@Thebadman1680 The Purple wires connect the relay coil to the two contacts that would go to the traditional mechanical chime (with the PowerKit attached to those terminals as well).
You can use a 24VAC transformer to power the RingPro (like I did), but don't use that to power the intercom, only use the correctly rated 16VAC transformers to power the NuTone system.
Corgitronics thank you sir much appreciated
Thanks for the video....Will the 24 relay you used work with an 18v power supply? thanks
Yes, I just tested this relay, and it reliably closes (without buzzing) at 17 VAC
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NN5ABG2/
@@Corgitronics ..awesome thankyou....The Nutone IM-4406...has two 18v transformers. I believe I can actually tap into one as power source to Ring Pro and the other can run the chime...., while using your circuit...
@@emccabe1964 That might work, since the IM-44-6 uses 72VA transformers. The Ring Pro needs 20VA (sporadically), so it could add too much load.
When you connect the RingPro to the transformer, monitor the transformer's output voltage to see if it sags, particularly during the ring cycle.
Once the Ring is up and running you can use the app to check the device health.
@@Corgitronics - what about eliminating the pro power pack as a jumper? Wouldn't that reduce the amps and or put it in series with the relay.....a little extra resistance?
@@Corgitronics ......ignore that last reply.....that wouldn't get me any power with the relay being closed.
So no one has responded to the question I posted 3 days ago. Of course this is a rather old video, the last comment posted was over a year ago. For anyone who might read these comments in the future, I ordered the ring pro kit v3 on Amazon for just $1.99 and added it across the power terminals of the relay as recommended in the video to see if it would solve the problem I was having. Previously I installed a Eufy battery powered video doorbell. The Eufy was able to connect to my relay and ring the chime module in my intercom, however I would hear the relay hum for a few seconds every minute or so. Anker (Eufy) customer service was unable to help me resolve the hum and suggested that I not use it with my wired doorbell system. I had installed my Eufy doorbell to my intercom according to the directions in this video, however the video highlights the Ring video doorbell and installed using the Ring pro power kit. Since Eufy does not offer a similar gadget for their doorbell and instructed me that they were unable to resolve the hum issue, I decided to order a Ring pro power kit and try it with the Eufy. Wow! It now works flawlessly with no more hum. For anyone who may have the exact same circumstances this will allow you to follow this video with your Eufy equipment.
Hi dear, So I have it setup the way you described in the video (Except i have not connected the Pro Power kit or any register) but the relay actuate right away with power on and without pressing button on Ring Pro, when I press the button on ring pro, makes no difference.
do i need Pro Power kit? any idea? Please help. (note: i measured about 21 volt on relay coil without pressing Ring Pro Button)
I used "uxcell AC24V Coil Red Indicator Light 8 Pin DPDT Electromagnetic General Purpose Power Relay" and "Honeywell AT140A1000 40Va, 120V Transformer"
Thanks
Yes, you will need to use the Pro Power Kit. The Ring Pro uses enough current in standby mode that it will energize the relay continuously, the power kit allows most of that power to bypass the relay coil. It sounds like you have the right relay and transformer, just need to add the power kit.
thanks for Quick Reply, i will order and install Pro Power Kit and Let you know
Dear Corgitronics
with the pro kit installed, it works,
also is it normal that when we power on Bell, the relay stayed actuated (On) for few second and then turn-off
(in that case, if power out and in at night, the door bell will ring for few second at night)
let me know if i am doing anything wrong
Thanks
@@pateljitu28I'm glad it's working for you!
The relay will trigger when the Ring Pro powers up, that's due to the heavy current draw of the Ring Pro as it starts up. I explain this at 10:18 in the video.
@@Corgitronics, Sorry i overlooked that,
Thanks
You are the best
Thank you for your video. I completed my system as you described. I just have one issue. When I push the ring doorbell, the nutone chime plays twice. This didn't happen originally, but now does it every time. Does this mean I should remove the diode on the nutone button?
Well, that's a new one to me. Let's confirm which model you're using, as the Ring Pro comes with a Power Kit (as shown in this video) , I don't believe it comes with a diode.
The relay fully isolates the Ring doorbell from the intercom's chime circuit, so you shouldn't need the diode at all. But, I'm doubtful that removing the diode will solve this double triggering issue. After the electronic chime rings, how long is it until it rings again?
Is this a Ring Doorbell 2, or a Ring Pro?
I found my problem. Actually 2 problems. The first was that the ring pro I had must have been a newer model. It had support built in for electronic chimes. You could choose between mechanical and electronic. If you chose electronic, it lets you specify the length of the chime. The default was 10 seconds, which allowed it to play twice. I changed it to mechanical since that was what was assumed I was trying to make work. I was disappointed to find that it then would only play for a second or two. But I remembered they use a diode to make sure the chime has enough power to play all the way. I had the relay connected to the wires going to the old Nutone doorbell, which then went to the chime. Knowing a diode only lets power flow in one direction, I swapped the lines, and bingo, everything works now. So with the new ring pro I probably didn't need the separate transformer and relay, but not all chimes are the same length, so I prefer this setup. Thank you for your help and video.
@@waynethorsted6589 Interesting that they have finally accomodated electronic chimes. That's good to know. Thank you for the update.
First off... Thank you very much for taking the time to do these two videos. They are very informative and much appreciated.
I am trying to install the Ring Doorbell Pro into a NuTone intercom system. It has two 16V transformers installed. Because of the location, I would rather not have an external transformer powering the doorbell. Would it be possible to replace one of the 16V transformers with a 24V and then wire it up with the relay per your instructions? I wonder what the impact of 24V on the rest of the NuTone chime system would be?
I'm not sure that I'd give 24 Volts to the Nutone, you may be able to power the RingPro off of one of the NutTone's transformers. It kind of depends on the intercom model. Also, I'm not sure which of the two transformers would be the best to use... might connect an Amp meter (DMM set to Amps), and see how much power the intercom is using from each transformer.
You could replace one of the existing 16 V transformers with a transformer that has a higer VA rating but is still 16 V. Something like this 50VA unit: www.amazon.com/PWS-1650-Supply-Adapter-Transformer-terminals/dp/B06XRM9QZ3/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=16+volt+transformer&qid=1551937937&s=gateway&sr=8-8
Or this 75 VA industrial beast www.amazon.com/Siemens-MT0075C-Industrial-Transformer-Secondary/dp/B0052MY318/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?keywords=16+volt+transformer+75VA&qid=1551937986&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmr0
@@Corgitronics Thanks for the help. I ended up just disconnecting the chimes in my NuTone intercom system and wiring the ring directly to the installed 16V transformer. The Ring Doorbell Pro rings through the Ring Chime. I like your solution, but did not have room behind the intercom to fit the relay and I did not want an external transformer because my NuTone control panel is on the wall in the kitchen. Thanks again for taking the time to make this video.
Do you know why my relay is chattering? Or clicking between the contacts rapidly? I've done everything like you've instructed.
A few questions: Does it chatter all of the time, or only when the Ring is triggered?
Are you using an AC relay, the typical DC relay will chatter.
Are you using a 24VAC transformer with a 24VAC relay? The typical 16VAC transformer won't reliably trigger a 24VAC Relay.
Also, is the Ring Pro set to "Mechanlical" under Device Settings --> General Settings --> Doorbell Chime Type ?
@@Corgitronics I'm using the elk 24v ac transformer, with the 24v ac relay you suggested on Amazon. It chatters immediately, when I check the voltage before I connect the ring on the opposite side of the coil it's 26.6v then when I connect the lead to the ring the voltage drops to about 10.6v on the load side. Is my power kit bad? The relay functions properly without the devices connected I've checked.
@@SuperHondaFitDriver It might be the power kit, I bet they'll send you a new one. Just tell them the doorbell solenoid is being held in the whole time, they should understand that. I really can't think of anything else that could be going on. Now, all of that said, remember that the Ring will pull a lot of current for about 30 seconds at power up.
Also, make sure you've set the Ring Pro to use a mechanical chime as I mentioned in my last post.
@@Corgitronics Ok sounds about right, I'll make sure I call them. Hopefully that's it. I did all the settings in the app so I'll see once I get the new power kit.
I have a Nutone IM3303 and I no longer use the intercom system, I just use its chime. Can the Ring or Ring 2 be wired so that the Nutone chime will work with it?
Yes, see the chain of comments below from Ben C. and how he got it working with his IM-3303.
Will this same circuit work with the Ring Doorbell 2?
It might, I don't have the Ring 2, but I might have one in a month or so. I haven't read much about the Ring 2, but if the installation instructions say that it can trigger a mechanical (solenoid) chime, then this approach should work fine.
Note that if you are using a 16 Volt transformer, then you won't be able to reliably trigger a 24 V relay, you'll need to use a 16 V (AC) relay instead.
@@Corgitronics I have had a hard time finding a 16 VAC relay. If anyone has one, I would love to see it!
@@TaylorYork86
12V AC relay would do, as it's powered up for a very short period of time and there is no chance to overheat: www.amazon.com/dp/B00YTW5Q0E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vL6IDbGCNVF7R
Hi Corgitronics. First of all thank you very much for this very informative video. I just move in to my new home (not really new coz it was built in 2001 and i'm the second owner) that has the m&s mc602 intercom that has master unit/speaker and remote scan/speaker in every room.
I just bought last Thanksgiving sale a ring pro. I want to integrate this to the existing mc606 if possible wherein when a visitor push either button (doorbell button of mc602 or ring pro) it will activate both units. Will this be possible? If its not too much to ask, can you make a video for this setup with detailed step by step instruction/guide including lists of additional parts needed and where to buy them. I know im not the only person who will benefit for such instructional video. Thank you in advance.
I can't find any information about the M&S MC602 intercoms, but if the doorbell button connects directly to the chime board on the intercom then you should be able to follow the same approach. On the current M&S chime boards there are contacts such as COM, 1-NOTE, 2-NOTE, 3-NOTE. Just connect the relay's contacts to the same contacts that the doorbell button is connected to. Your chime board may look similar to this one, manufacturers usually don't change these much over the years: www.homecontrols.com/homecontrols/products/pdfs/MS-MnSSystems/MSMC3_Manual.pdf
Be sure to watch my short follow-up video about the relay connections: ruclips.net/video/hd68roYUDng/видео.html
Now, for the second part of that... having the regular button trigger the Ring Pro... that would require going into the Ring Pro and connecting to the internal contacts of it's button. That might not be too hard to do, but I haven't dismembered my Ring Pro to see.
Thank you for your reply. Still trying to find somebody willing to install it. If I can't find one I might try to install it myself and hope I won't burn my house... lol!
Hello again corgitronics. Pls be patient with me because up to now i haven't found one willing to give the connection a try. Im having problem with the hook up on the main intercom system because the transformer has a TE5B (primary 120v 50/60 hz and dual secondary output of 16v 37va). From the transformer enclosure box (two 16v dual output) comes out 5 multicolored lead wires that connects to the main ms602 board and some wires connects back to the chime module where the door push button wires are connected.
My issues are: if im gonna replace the 16v transformer to 24v, how will i do the connection of those 5 different collored output wires and will it not burn the other devices connectec because of the increase in voltage?
imgur.com/gallery/S5Pxs6K this is how the transformer look like. The te5d (stock picture i got on the internet) is the same as mine its just that the te5b is 16v while the te5d is 16.5. I can't find a stock photo of te5b).
i.imgur.com/PJropS9.png
imgur.com/gallery/mEjVcqM
link for the wiring guide for mc602 intercom system.
imgur.com/gallery/79V7R9E
Link for some of the photos of my intercom system.
If you are willing and kind enough to help me with a step by step connection guide and solve the connection issues pls feel free to pm me at chard2005rivera@comcast.net. willing to send $100 check to compensate your trouble. It's not much and might even offend some professionals like you but i think its better than nothing. Pls help me with the connection. Thank you in advance.
I have the parts needed with if the set up is like the one on your video and i also bought a honeywell transformer (24vac 40va in case we decide to replace the existing transformer and mount it on the enclosure box. Thanks
I forgot to mention that in your video " how to connect ac relay" i noticed you did bundled-connection of the wires of the push button and wires of the speaker on the fron door outlet. Since my transformer has dual 16volt output, will that create a problem?
This is very helpful, Thanks alot!!
I did it! Thanks a million!
So does this work for getting sound though the intercom speakers
What? This is about getting the chime sound to play through the intercom.
@@Corgitronics sorry, I wasn't sure if some intercom systems had seperate doorbell speakers. Thanks for you reply.
Great video! Any idea if this is possible with the Ring Elite?
The relay may not be necessary with the Elite, as it provides a pair of contacts for the existing doorbell. However, the instructions don't specify whether it can only work with a low voltage AC or will also work with a DC signal like an intercom. If it only works with an AC signal, then this approach should work just fine.
@@Corgitronics Great video! What I found on the Elite is, the Ring Elite is compatible with most AC-powered bells operating between 8-24 volts. Unfortunately, the Ring Video Doorbell Elite is not compatible with wireless bells or any bell/intercom system using a DC transformer. So, it sounds like this would work to the Intercom doorbell button using the relay you suggested - does that sound right? Could I possibly use a smaller relay?
@@grtessman Yes, I think this approach would work, I'm not sure about a "smaller" relay. You can use one of these AC relays without the socket, which will make it a lot smaller, you just need to crimp or solder the connections. This and perhaps other options might make for a good video. But, I have just moved and the new lab is still getting setup.
@@Corgitronics Thank you again for your reply. What I meant by smaller relay was more about using something nearer a 10v relay instead of pressing the boundaries of 24v since the Ring Elite is capable of operating. 8-24v. Does amps matter since PoE (IEEE 802.3af) is power over ethernet and what powers the Ring Elite? I can't imagine it would carry very many amps. As for size with the socket, that won't be an issue for me with 2"x6" wall depth I would prefer to use it with the socket. I'll be trigging the chime button for my Nutone IMA4406.
@@grtessman Based on their documentation and the diagram on page 5 of the installation manual, it doesn't appear that the Ring Elite needs any power from the doorbell transformer. I expect that their circuitry expects that the doorbell connection be AC, but is likely quite tollerant of lower voltages.
I think that you could get by with 16VAC from the intercom's transformer and a 12VAC relay like www.amazon.com/Baomain-Power-Relay-PTF08A-Socket/dp/B00YTW5Q0E
Although the relay is only 12V, the amount of time that is on to ring the bell is quite short... but putting a small fuse inline would be a good idea just to protect things.
I'm looking at the video minute 5 and it appears that the Ring powers up and stabilizes at 0.150 Amps when connected to the mechanical doorbell with the Ring PPK attached. However, at Minute 11 or so when you power it up using the relay, it's only using .003 Amps and a peak of .008 when the relay is energized. I can't figure out what I'm missing - I can't see all of the connections on the table demo, but when I hook up my relay, transformer, etc my Ring is still pulling .150 Amps through the relay after it's booted up and never deactivating the relay. Can you explain the difference in amps from minute 5 vs minute 11 ?
At the 5 minute mark I am testing with a mechanical (solenoid) doorbell, and all of the power for the RingPro is passing through the doorbell's solenoid. At the 11 minute mark I am testing with the relay, and only measuring the power passing through the relay, the rest of the power is passing through the "power kit" provided by Ring.
@@Corgitronics Fantastic, Makes sense. I tried just the relay www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NN5ABG2/ with a 24 VAC transformer and the "power kit" (as shown in your schematic) and for some reason, my Ring Pro would never fully boot up. When I use just a 16 VAC transformer and no relay, it boots up fine. The Ring Pro powers up with the relay in the circuit, but I always get some variant of the flashing LED (left, top or right) as if it's underpowered. It's a 24 VAC 30 VA relay and the relay closes with no buzzing. I'm not sure what's going on - perhaps a bad power kit because my current mechanical doorbell "buzzez / vibrates" even after the ring is fully powered. I thought I'd install the relay to get rid of the buzz and perhaps go to a digital doorbell later. If the "power kit", which I understand is a resistive circuit is bad, it would make sense that the mechanical doorbell buzzes and I guess make sense that the relay never disengages or the Ring doesn't boot up. I appreciate your input.
@@jsfarmes I think that the power kit is actually more than just a resistor, but I haven't taken one apart to check it out.
Also, in the Ring App, under "Doorbell Kit Settings", make sure the "doorbell type" is set to "mechanical"
Greetings all.. Could anyone provide a simple wiring diagram. I have a Nutone system like the video.. I assume you cut into the wiring going to the Nutone door bell
There is a diagram at 12:09 ruclips.net/video/4ZFl6BRTQnA/видео.html and at 15:56 I show the connections to the intercom board ruclips.net/video/4ZFl6BRTQnA/видео.html
I don't have cat5 wiring, I assume the 2 pair that came with the nutone will work. Is there a telephone number I could call you at?
@@alehrhardt8063 the 2 pairs will work. Doubling up the wires as I show reduces the resistance and the voltage drop.
Could I contact you, or you contact me directly, thanks
Corgitronics, would it be possible for me to contact you directly ???
Could you share a few photos showing the relay wiring? I don't see where the NuTone blue and white wires are connected on the relay. Maybe those weren't hooked up yet in the still photos.
Curtis J: I have just uploaded a video showing details about the connections to the relay. I hope this covers everything.
ruclips.net/video/hd68roYUDng/видео.html
Corgitronics thank you so much!
Corgitronics do you know of a relay that works with a 16V AC transformer?
my ring pro works fine connected directly to my 16V transformer but i do want to add the nutone electronic chime if possible. i can’t seem to find a relay that works at 16V AC
will this power kit work with a ring 2?
The Ring 2 doesn't need a powerkit, see my more recent video where I connect a relay to a Ring 2: ruclips.net/video/xmeYzodpkfU/видео.html
Thanks for the video...
Just to clarify.....
Ring Video Doorbell Pro
If i get that relay and use the pro power kit across the coil, i don't need the 25ohm 50 watt resistor mentioned on the ring's website
thanks in advance
That is correct, that is how I have it setup and working.
@@Corgitronics Hi There
So I have it setup the way you described in the video but the relay won't actuate when I press the ring pro...
Not sure what is going on but any idea...
I checked the relay directly and it works but not in conjunction with the ring pro..
Thanks
@@sagarsamrat1108 Check the settings for the RingPro, make sure that the setting for Doorbell Type is set to Mechanical. Here's their FAQ: support.ring.com/hc/en-us/articles/115002791966-Setting-Up-Your-Ring-Video-Doorbell-Pro-in-the-Ring-App
Failing that, check the voltages (with the meter set to AC), and make sure the diode isn't installed.
@@Corgitronics thank you so much...
Changing it to machanical did the trick...
Appreciate the help....
Do you have a link for the relay?
The products tend to change regularly, but in this more recent video I show a few from Amazon that you can search for. ruclips.net/video/xmeYzodpkfU/видео.html
Wow ring says that’s not supported
Good job!
Geneo M
Way over my head