According to Commodore Belgium (the official Commodore distribution hub for Belgium), I was the first Belgian to buy the A1000. I had placed my order very soon after reading an article in Byte magazine about the machine that blew my mind (I was a C64 guy back then).. the hardware and software specs were just so advanced, I instantly fell in love with the spec. I had to wait almost a whole year before Commodore finally informed me that they had supplied one of their business dealerships near Ghent with the first A1000 to arrive in the country. My head start with the Amiga allowed me to start working as an Amiga games developer for UK companies just two years later. My early investment in the A1000 (it did cost a fortune) was repaid when I later managed to work for Commodore in the UK, working on systems software. As part of being a Commodore software engineer, I got an A3000 as a perk. The A3000 was another killer machine. Shame Commodore screwed up commercially towards the end.
Just a quick correction. This is the second generation Amiga 1000. The first units produced had a daughter board and were, afaik, only available in NA. By the time the Amiga was available in Europe as a PAL unit, it had been slimmed down to a single motherboard. The 2 boards ones are quite rare ;-)
It is great to see how you appreciate this old piece of Hardware. I grew up with the C64 and Amiga and I still enjoy these old machines and handle them with care. I am looking forward to see Part II.
So refreshing to see a YT tech using proper ESD precautions! And now I see why I'm glad using the attachment on my desk itself vs. on my mat like in this vid - with the cord pulling straight in front like that. My desk's attachment would come from behind, even though I have both of them star-grounded already. (I also splurged for one of the all-metal bracelets. 👍)
I've been a bit depressed lately, but this kind of video cheers me up. So thank you so much!!! You made my day already. Since the plastic is so brittle I'd consider using the sun bleaching technique since it's less destructive than peroxide. But I don't know how easy it is for you to just lay out parts in the open in the sun like that.
Ashley Williams I used the sun bleaching technique on one of my 1541 disk drives but it turns out not so good. Maybe repaint it is a better option in (on) this case.
I love the fact that the first thing you go look for a test, is Turrican 2! One of the best games ever released anywhere! I used to play it every day and finish it before doing homework when I was a kid in theate 80s and early 90s. Glad you are a Turrican fan among other things!
Regarding that cap with a floating leg, I did some googling and found a picture of an A1000 mobo that seems to be the exact same layout, and sure enough that cap's leg is floating there as well...
I literally just went looking for a guide on these things. I've got one that's missing parts, and figured somebody would have an HD look at the innards out here. Then, top result, it's you! What a crazy coincidence- rock on sir!
I found an old battered US model 1000 in my works warehouse in the mid 90's (I'm in the UK). It was missing it's top with all the signatures. :( I tried retrofitting a pc powersupply to find there is an extra "tick" line coming from the original power supply that is needed to work. It also had an additional logic board above the main board. I did manage to get it working enough to test after somebody kindly sent me a kickstart disk to try, but ultimately ended up selling it to someone for spares. Like a lot of my amiga gear I wish I had hung on to it now.
Back in the mid 80's I worked as a product manager for Telesys in Fremont Calif. We were invited to Amiga to see their new computer and had to sign an NDA. Coming from a world of Apple II and Commodore 128's it was very impressive. Ground breaking even. This was before they were bought by Commodore.
Another great video Jan really enjoy watching! I have an A1000 but don't have a keyboard have been searching for an 1000 keyboard or adapter to use any keyboard with the 1000 but not having any luck. Have any suggestions on how I can use a PS2, USB or any other keyboard with it. I really want an original keyboard but at this point I just want to be able to use it
I had no idea that the 1000 was so rare. When I was in college, I had a friend who had one of these. We would shoot videos with my camera and portable VCR, and then use his Amiga to do titles. He had some genloc, and... Video Toaster? Ironically, my comparison was the Mac Plus, and to me, it had chunky and blocky text. It's only positive was color and video capabilities and audio, which the Mac didn't have then.
Yeah, the Mac was much more a “print medium computer,” which output print layout and design that was focused much more on newspapers - with Quark and “Ragemaker” (Adobe Pagemaker, back when Adobe only made programs, for Mac, before they even moved to Windows. Newspapers were much bigger, more viable media, at the time (because nobody used the WWW, much, at all, until the early ‘90s, with it not having been invented by Tim Berners-Lee, I think at at CERN, until 1989), and as compared to home video titles and credits, etc., and rare business presentations, at the time, which generally were for community cable and local business TV ads, beyond home projects and some film school onscreen text. At the time, there were so many proprietary file types, that Amigas weren’t as suitable, for business presentations, as they should have been, being so much more powerful, in that area, as compared to Windows, which was much more supported by big database software, like Lotus, and proprietary software, for businesses, that local programmers could create, to do specific inventory workflows, in the forms of databases and spreadsheets... I first moved up, to an Amiga 500 (and Video Toaster, which was awesome and as close to a “complete standard” (as .doc files were, as it got -. from an Atari 800 (an original Atari 8-bit model), after starting, briefly, with a TI-99/4a - as soon as the 500 came out, as well as a Mac Plus, which I added, later, for graphic design work, to send files (on 3.5” floppies), to print media outlets, while doing freelance work, in college and after college, for a year, before doing Master’s and Ph.D.starting with a Mac Quadra 660 A/V and moving to an iMac A/V, before switching to MacBooks Pro, as a prof, in Ad & PR (which became “Integrated Communication”), at UT @Austin, and then the E.W. Scripps School of Journalism, at Ohio, in Strategic Communication and grad theory and research...
"By July 1985, Commodore had everything going for it. The Amiga computer had been demonstrated in public to rave reviews, and everyone was excited at the potential of this great technology. That's when the problems started… by October there were only 50 Amiga 1000 units in existence, all used by Commodore for demos and internal software development. Amiga 1000 computers did not start to appear in quantity on retail shelves until mid-November 1985. This was too late to make a significant impact on the crucial holiday buying season. Most retailers make 40 percent or more of their yearly sales over the holidays, and Commodore had missed the boat." - Classic Commodore. Like all their Osbourne effect faux pas and other marketing cockups and in-house competition.
@@mechamania Wow, that was a lot of words, a bit strangly arranged. ;) Of course, most people reading here know those stories, platforms differences and personal preferences..
I started today restoring my A1000 and found that chip soldered in the same way, all on one side. And I see you also have those resistors near the video exit, R25 and friends, with two resistors where one was expected to be fitted... I guess some last moment fix.
Finally an A1K! Have two of these myself and I share your feelings about them. I also totally adore these lovely machines. In part 2 you definitely have to cover the sound jingle of the boot up sequence, Jan! So special about the 1000. I cross fingers that the keyboard works - I had to take apart every Mitsumi switch which took forever. Looking fwd to the 2nd part
I actually _like_ seeing the Commodore logo on there; it's a reminder of the parent company: the maker of the best-selling home computer of all time supposedly until just recently when some say the Raspberry Pi took over.
My first ever Amiga pickup was an A1000 and it got me hooked trying to fix it. No keyboard, no mouse, no kickstart, but it's slowly coming together. I'm so jealous you have a keyboard! Not sure about EU, but in the US if you traded your A1000 keyboard in you got a discount on an A500. So all the keyboards are missing!
What a wonderful computer the A1000 is. I really enjoy using mine. The keyboard takes some getting used to since the cursor keys are right where the enter key should be, so I always find myself hitting those by accident
If you had a 220uF 400V I would have used that. The capacitor C159 with the leg out just bounced out during wave soldering like the IC on an angle. It belongs in the hole indicated by the silk screen. What make and model range did you use for the capacitors you replaced? What make model were they before replacement?
Throwing components at something may not always fix it, you know? I like to think the internet experts have contributed to such behaviour. It would be nice to measure the AC ripple coming off that power supply first, before any caps are changed so you can see if any work does in fact need doing. It’s problem solving, and turning back on after you change each component, to make sure you haven’t connected anything wrong. I’d like to see a lot more of that type of outlook on RUclips!
This is NOT a Motorola made CPU, it is an EF68000 which points to Thomson-CSF. At first, looking at the logo, I thought it is a Mostek CPU, but it should be marked MK68000. I checked that EF marking belongs to Thomson, then I realized that Tomson and Mostek logos have the same shape, but they are in negative ;)
I love the Amiga 1000 design! I was fortunate enough to get one from a local seller a few years back in original box :D I later managed to snag two lose A1000's one with keyboard and one without. I have a replacement GB A1000 PCB sitting here I should really look at populating and throwing into the A1000 case. It would really make the A1000 fly if I can ever work up the courage to start populating it :)
Often when plastic brittles it's because it dries up. At least some plastics like RC car parts become much flexier and stronger when you "cook" them in hot water for a few hours. I've done that to even new parts from the factory and the difference is really quite clear. The plastic absorbs moisture bad becomes less brittle. I don't know if it works with this type of plastic but might be worth trying on a test part at least.
I bought one of these as my first machine back in the late 80's. I still have it along with original packaging box and manuals. I did the modifications to increase the chip RAM and put the Kickstart in ROM.
Mine had 2 megs ram expansion and a sidecar with twin 30mb hard drives. After the kickstart I would load workbench into a recoverable ram drive, which could survive a reboot, meaning the workbench would then run at ram speed. The hard drives could be partitioned as amiga or ms-dos. The sidecar would allow pc-xt hardware to run, in an amiga window. I was able to run windows 3.0. I also had a noisy fan, which I replaced. I bought a hp paintjet colour printer, it was amazing. Cost a lot (about 2000 Australian dollars) at the time, now you get better for less than $50! I still have the system but it hasn't been turned on in more than 20 years.
My 1st comment EVER on a video, but I dig that you use a swiss army knife as much as you do, I keep one in my pocket and its my go to for EVERYTHING when working on computer unless I just need more distance. But it was good enough for MacGyver it is good enough for me
Ganz großes Kino , meinen Respekt. Ich habe meinen Amiga 1000 vor 2 Wochen nach fast 30 jährigen Schlaf wieder reaktiviert. Die interne Floppy ist leider hin, ich nutze ein Gotek Laufwerk mit Kickstart 1.3 in Slot 1. Und meine Gehäuseteile bleichen gerade in der Sonne (Retrobright) .
Nice. The A1000 I have now and the one I had back in the day both have the Daughter Board. Honestly I would not mind having the cost reduced board because I never liked removing and installing the Daughter Board. On the other hand I prefer not having the Commodore Name on the front of the case because back then it was just the Amiga and it was special and having Commodores name on the front of the case just cheapens the perception and Commodore knew it which is why the did not put it there in the first place. That changed later I believe when they released in in Europe where Commodore commanded more love and respect then in the USA.
You can service the rattly noisy fan.. Peel up the sticker on the spindle side, and you can drip some sewing machine oil or 3 in 1 etc light oil down into the spindle and it will relubricate it.
I got my Amiga 1000 in November 1986. Saved up for a while, though I was tempted briefly by an Atari ST. My fan made a noise right from day one, a sort up pulsating or phasing 'whom-whom-whom'. Most annoying. I got the 256k expansion and 1081 monitor at the same time. I got it from Precision Software - who created Superbase database software. I had no software to run on it, they had Aegis Images (a competitor to Deluxe Paint), so I got that. Where did those nearly 34 years go?
Hi Jan, the Amiga 1000 PSU case should always be directly ground connected to the motherboard, you will notice that the board makes contact to the PSU when built in. There are A1000 power supply versions that do not have a direct earth connection at the GND connections, but are capacitively grounded. Unfortunately, a voltage against earth can build up here, which then leads to quite unpleasant equalizing currents when connecting earth references (interface connections, monitor, etc.).
hello. Is there a df0/df1 switch for Amiga 1000? I have some for 500 not sure if it is compatible. I have some with and without switch (reset 3 seconds). and if yes a schematic to install it ? (I know very little about the 1000)
This old computer seems very well engineered. I can only assume that the later Amiga 500 had a lot of those IC's that are in this design directly baked into the custom chips (which I think is in a different form factor to what I saw in the A500 - I could be wrong, it has been a long time since I looked at one). I did notice a couple of points where it looks like a couple of additional chips could have been deleted from the original design. I wonder if one of those points could be used to mount a Kickstart Rom. Something that does confuse me is why anyone would install a resistor and leave one end hanging? Surely it would have no effect and could be deleted from the design for cost saving. One thing I would want to do with one of these is to install a hard drive (or some kind of modern alternative) to run the software from. You might want to consider something like one of the accelerators that TerribleFire has designed. They sit under the MC68000 chip and getting a board made for that would probably be a good way to partener up with PCBWay. These have IDE interfaces on them as well so they would make installing a hard drive style device much easier.
I remember when I was working at an electronics company, one of the co workers, a russian woman, used to get shocks from 250V caps. When testing our devices, our chief engineer didn’t uncharge the caps, so this woman when she got the boards, sometimes she got to the solder joints of the caps and got zapped. Of course she would blame him, emediately xD lol. His desk was directly behind hers, so she yelled his name directly too him, and he always laughed. He was right to! Always be careful when you’re working with electronics that carries a capacitance in such high voltages! She didn’t, she got zapped...
Thanks to the guy who donated it, it's great to see someone make a video with one of these. As far as the missing cover goes. I made something similar out of a old tower before. It was a close match and I was able to cut a filler panel out and carefully glued it together. Another option would be to 3d print something too.
One important question - WHY THE HOT GLUE?! To make it harder to repair in the future, or to increase resistance to vibrations when this thing will be mounted in a vehicle?
Because in switching power supplies, the capacitors vibrate in the switching frequency. They are usually glued down to dampen that and prevent premature failure.
Your wrist strap isn’t doing anything when not in circuit with the device you’re working on. If you have it connected to the earth ground, it has no effect on the computer, when the computer power cord isn’t connected. You should connect it to the ground plane of the computer.
Jan Beta It’s not about you vs the earth, it’s you vs the ground plane of the board. The board itself can be of vastly different electric potential than you and the earth via the static charge affecting it the same as you or anything else for that matter. Its ground plane should be at the same ground plane as you. It does not magically “know” what the earth potential is without being connected to it with a conductor. When you’re the conductor, you’re the conductor what’s zapping it back to earth potential when you’re earth potential. Voltages are always about the relative difference.
@@jammi__ I have often wondered abut that as I always connect the strap to the earth plane on the mobo I am working on and I have noticed both Jan and Gadget UK seem to earth to a socket which always bothered me. I am relatively new to retro repairs and soldering so assumed they knew something I didn't. I have also seen other RUclipsrs connecting CRTs to earth on wall outlets when discharging the tube and again I would have thought you're best to earth it to its chassis not an earth socket?
As long as the device was earthed before the chassis should be near gound potential, after that when you have the grounding strap you prevent yourself from floating away from ground and as long as you keep touching the computer frame it will remain near ground too. If the mobo was left well insulated for a long time and at unknown potentials then just wearing the strap and touching the board directly does not work, untill you touch the chassis when things are probably OK again. It does not really matter what potential everything is at, ground or whatever, as long as everything is at the same potential with each others and the equalizing is one through a high value resistor to prevent large currents.
@@JanBeta Because you have an entire plastic case of the computer isolating that motherboard from the mat, rendering it absolutely pointless to have around. Like @Ben Baselet explained, it doesn't matter which potential you're at, even if you were tens of millions of volts higher than earth, as long as you're not at a different potential from the device you're working on. Your mat doesn't do anything to help the situation, you need to have a connection between you and the ground plane of the board itself. Your antistatic work surface is there to prevent forming charges when you operate on the device, which is very different from being an useful earth conductor. If its purpose was being an earth conductor, it'd be very conductive, such as a sheet of copper. Instead, it's just rubberized conductive particles that at best has the conductivity of a very high-ohm resistor.
Good to see quality caps on the PCB and PSU, probably why it still works before a recap. Get some Kickstart ROMs, it'll drive you insane having to boot from floppy.
Intersting. That's the first time I've ever seen a PAL A1000 motherboard. Mine has an NTSC REV A board in it which has the daughter board for the Kickstart RAM. It has a PAL Agnus in it though, but the composite video still outputs NTSC colour.
Oh yeah, I've heard of PCB Way. If you watch Perifractic Chris's videos, you can't _not_ hear of PCB way! He entertains us with his bold call-out of that in just about every one of his videos! Because as we know, "PCB" stands for "Perifractic Chris's Bravado"! :-D
I think there are replacement circuits for the A2000 tick signal. That should pretty much be the same as the A1000 signal I would guess (haven’t looked into that though). The rest of the PSU is relatively easy to replace.
I did the same tear down when I went to VCF East Workshop. I posted after wards how I thought the Amiga 1000 case feels super cheap and easy to break. I was getting bashed by all the Amiga fan boys for saying how much nicer an IBM 5160 felt working on in comparison to Amiga 1000
Haha, I can imagine that. I agree, the case feels pretty flimsy and the PCB is really thin compared to the more recent Amigas. The power supply is well made at least... ;)
Hey Jan. I'm waiting for a shipment from China of no external switch boot selectors for A500/2000 that I designed, I'm getting 5 surface mount assembled boards and don't need them all (JLCPCB). Would you want one or two after I test them and they work as designed? The board would plug into the CIA socket and you'd socket the CIA in the board. The idea is that you would use Amiga+Amiga+Ctrl to change the boot drive from internal to external by holding them for over 1 second and as such don't need any external switch (or a switch dangling in the trapdoor).
That drive looks like a 1010 because it is a 1010, just like the internal 1581 (I think) on the 65, the 1571 on the 128-D, 1541 on the SX-64, and 1530/C2N on the PET 2000.
I was shocked when you plugged the newly repaired PSU into that historic board, I thought you would have probed the power supply pins to check the voltages were right? Or did you do that off camera?
I suppse he did, however those are uncomparably better constructed than the infamous "bricks" (i know that because i run a later model with even bigger capacitors under load without even changing the capacitors because i was curious about how well it had survived, and you know wahet, i gor zero messurement errors from it(!) that's certanly more than i can say about litterar any modern PSU i ever used... even the best quality brands on the market for the regular consumers PC i had has run into some problems after about 10-15 years. Only PSU i had wich is better than those are from expensive test equpiment, but they are constructed differently compared to the normal computer ones so they can not realy be compared. However i think The russian space program used similar components in their computer equipment, i think Curious Mark made a test of the Soys clock and came to the same conclusion, he did not need to do anything at all after he messured everything properly... I know those computer PSU did not use realy high grade components in comparision, but my experience is that they shall be good to go at least 20-35 years after production date, apending on the particular component batches they used. Howevr a frind bloved one of the later non bricked Commodore OEM psu, but i strongly suspect it happened because he did not check the capacitors and just did put them under full load after they had sat for like 10 years, one realy need to be careful when re activating old capacitors that had been store for so long properly and give them a serie of soft starts before setting them under full load. (modern sheapo quality capacitors are always certnly shot after 15 years, so they can not be compared.) )
I did check the main 5V rail, the others only turn on with load but I took that risk (partially because I’m an impatient person when I’m eager to try something). Of course I should really have tested more thoroughly.
@@JanBeta My experience from relity is that tose types (at least the very old ones) are not near that dangerous as the famous "bricks" so far (so far from my very limited experience from real life, since i only seen them fail capitaly one or two times when i sold old computers to friends i taught had more basic experience and knowledge from electric work then they actualy turned out to hawe... I taught it was obvious for him, at my friends skill of knowledge, to know how to softstart old CPU capacitors at least... ) i hawe not seen tose models sending out that load of overvoltage as the bricks often did if they fail capitaly, the ones i hawe seen (of the later models) only gave off bangs and smoke and shutted down. They seem to act more like the ones IBM used, not as the external Commodore PSUs. I might be wrong, but that's my practical experience. The early external "bricks" filled with epoxi on the otherside is an entire different story... I newer use them without proper voltage protection circuits added in... (However if one manage to remove the epoxi in some magic way the transformer inside them are actualy of high quality British made and worth saving, but unfortunatly it's almost impossible to get it out in one pice with home equipment... )
@@JanBeta I guessed you had tested them as I could tell you were really nervous about this machine. I think it's amazing that these original machines are still able to run all these years later.
Hi Jan, great video, so intereting ! I'm doing exactly the same thing on my amiga 1000. Before replacing the capacitors of the power supply you replace 2 or 3 pieces. Is it 100% necessary. What are their purpose ?
The keyboard cable for all 1000’s is the RJ45 phone connection. I’m sure the Commodore logo on the front only appeared on the units sold outside the US.
I wonder if you could shoehorn in an Amiga 3000 mobo in one of those cases for upgrade purposes. Maybe 3D print a lookalike case for one. In black. Replace the floppy drive with an SD card slot. Hmmm....
To prevent vibration caused by the fast switching of the power supply and also keeps them in place during transport so the solder joints don't break etc for these relatively heavy components.
Whoa, interesting; I had forgotten about (or I don't remember if I ever really learned about) through-hole capacitors that look like through-hole resistors! Weird that that one was halfway off, doing nothing. I wonder how/why that happened. Do they use the same color code as resistors?
I need to open up my old 1000 and make sure nothing leaked...it was working fully last I turned it on. It has a 1.5 meg daughter board(spirit I think) and a 2 meg sidecar bring it to 4 whole megs. NTSC US system.
A little suggestion. A quite unknown method to remove the glue: oil (that one used to fry stuff like potatoes, fish...). I know... then you have to remove the oil, but it works. The three solvents in earth: alcohol, soap and oil, if one fails the other works.
I don't think you need to put heatsinks on the ceramic packaged chips. They might feel warmer because the ceramic package is actually way lower thermal resistance than plastic packages - so they cool themselves better actually ;-)
Winston Smith: While Atari always went for the simpler design for the "cheaper mass market", this one is completely different. Just compare the ST to the Amiga, tech-wise. The technology approaches are not even close. The ambition of the Amiga was huge, the marketing very poor. The exterior design does look like Atari 8-bit to you? Interresting, it doesn't to me.
Does anybody remember articles in Compute! Magazine in the early 80’s discussing the prototype amiga touted as able to run, apple II, AND Ti programs? Long before commodore gained the amiga?
You have a later pal version. early euro pal versions were half pal half ntsc and had the WCS daughter board. later pal had no WCS daughterboard. Whats interesting is the PSU provides the 50/60hz TICK to the motherboard.
Nice video again. If one person can refurbishing an Amiga it would be you. Fun to hear that you can read Dutch. In what city do you live? I live close near the German border.
Hallo Jan, Wahnsinn eine channelspende 🙂 freue mich für Dich und bin gespannt wies weiter geht 👍🏼als ich vor vier jahren nach dem 1000er gekuckt habe bin ich vom preis schon vom stuhl gefallen 😂
Thanks! The plan is to first restore it to original and then see about some upgrades. I’ll probably not fully max it out though, I have other Amigas for that. ;)
Funny point, the manufacturer of the power supply seems to still exist and still produces power supplies but for vehicles, charging stations etc "SHINDENGEN ELECTRIC MFG. CO.,LTD"
I had an Amiga 1000 and 2000, but trashed them both. I just called my action being a protest against wasteful consumerism. But I did contribute to pollution which is the ultimate outcome of consumerism. ;)
@reeder 76 People like me who all too often make bad consumer choices need to see a psychiatrist. But buying new things satisfies some kind of urge I have? Maybe being bombarded with advertising all the time has something to do with it?
According to Commodore Belgium (the official Commodore distribution hub for Belgium), I was the first Belgian to buy the A1000. I had placed my order very soon after reading an article in Byte magazine about the machine that blew my mind (I was a C64 guy back then).. the hardware and software specs were just so advanced, I instantly fell in love with the spec. I had to wait almost a whole year before Commodore finally informed me that they had supplied one of their business dealerships near Ghent with the first A1000 to arrive in the country. My head start with the Amiga allowed me to start working as an Amiga games developer for UK companies just two years later. My early investment in the A1000 (it did cost a fortune) was repaid when I later managed to work for Commodore in the UK, working on systems software. As part of being a Commodore software engineer, I got an A3000 as a perk. The A3000 was another killer machine. Shame Commodore screwed up commercially towards the end.
The Amiga 1000 is the the one I wanted badly in 1985 but ended up with a A500 2yrs later.
Keep making these excellent videos Jan.
Just a quick correction. This is the second generation Amiga 1000. The first units produced had a daughter board and were, afaik, only available in NA. By the time the Amiga was available in Europe as a PAL unit, it had been slimmed down to a single motherboard. The 2 boards ones are quite rare ;-)
It is great to see how you appreciate this old piece of Hardware. I grew up with the C64 and Amiga and I still enjoy these old machines and handle them with care. I am looking forward to see Part II.
So refreshing to see a YT tech using proper ESD precautions! And now I see why I'm glad using the attachment on my desk itself vs. on my mat like in this vid - with the cord pulling straight in front like that. My desk's attachment would come from behind, even though I have both of them star-grounded already. (I also splurged for one of the all-metal bracelets. 👍)
I've been a bit depressed lately, but this kind of video cheers me up. So thank you so much!!! You made my day already.
Since the plastic is so brittle I'd consider using the sun bleaching technique since it's less destructive than peroxide. But I don't know how easy it is for you to just lay out parts in the open in the sun like that.
Ashley Williams I used the sun bleaching technique on one of my 1541 disk drives but it turns out not so good. Maybe repaint it is a better option in (on) this case.
I love the fact that the first thing you go look for a test, is Turrican 2!
One of the best games ever released anywhere!
I used to play it every day and finish it before doing homework when I was a kid in theate 80s and early 90s.
Glad you are a Turrican fan among other things!
Regarding that cap with a floating leg, I did some googling and found a picture of an A1000 mobo that seems to be the exact same layout, and sure enough that cap's leg is floating there as well...
Shit my comment was a year late 🧐🥴
Great vid Jan. I love the amiga 1000 with its chunky case design. The one true Amiga 😎
I literally just went looking for a guide on these things. I've got one that's missing parts, and figured somebody would have an HD look at the innards out here. Then, top result, it's you! What a crazy coincidence- rock on sir!
I found an old battered US model 1000 in my works warehouse in the mid 90's (I'm in the UK). It was missing it's top with all the signatures. :( I tried retrofitting a pc powersupply to find there is an extra "tick" line coming from the original power supply that is needed to work. It also had an additional logic board above the main board. I did manage to get it working enough to test after somebody kindly sent me a kickstart disk to try, but ultimately ended up selling it to someone for spares. Like a lot of my amiga gear I wish I had hung on to it now.
Back in the mid 80's I worked as a product manager for Telesys in Fremont Calif. We were invited to Amiga to see their new computer and had to sign an NDA. Coming from a world of Apple II and Commodore 128's it was very impressive. Ground breaking even. This was before they were bought by Commodore.
Another great video Jan really enjoy watching! I have an A1000 but don't have a keyboard have been searching for an 1000 keyboard or adapter to use any keyboard with the 1000 but not having any luck. Have any suggestions on how I can use a PS2, USB or any other keyboard with it. I really want an original keyboard but at this point I just want to be able to use it
I had no idea that the 1000 was so rare. When I was in college, I had a friend who had one of these. We would shoot videos with my camera and portable VCR, and then use his Amiga to do titles. He had some genloc, and... Video Toaster? Ironically, my comparison was the Mac Plus, and to me, it had chunky and blocky text. It's only positive was color and video capabilities and audio, which the Mac didn't have then.
A4000T is a rarity aswell, im pretty sure im goin to et one within 1 month for free :) Working condition? dont know. :)
Yeah, the Mac was much more a “print medium computer,” which output print layout and design that was focused much more on newspapers - with Quark and “Ragemaker” (Adobe Pagemaker, back when Adobe only made programs, for Mac, before they even moved to Windows. Newspapers were much bigger, more viable media, at the time (because nobody used the WWW, much, at all, until the early ‘90s, with it not having been invented by Tim Berners-Lee, I think at at CERN, until 1989), and as compared to home video titles and credits, etc., and rare business presentations, at the time, which generally were for community cable and local business TV ads, beyond home projects and some film school onscreen text. At the time, there were so many proprietary file types, that Amigas weren’t as suitable, for business presentations, as they should have been, being so much more powerful, in that area, as compared to Windows, which was much more supported by big database software, like Lotus, and proprietary software, for businesses, that local programmers could create, to do specific inventory workflows, in the forms of databases and spreadsheets...
I first moved up, to an Amiga 500 (and Video Toaster, which was awesome and as close to a “complete standard” (as .doc files were, as it got -. from an Atari 800 (an original Atari 8-bit model), after starting, briefly, with a TI-99/4a - as soon as the 500 came out, as well as a Mac Plus, which I added, later, for graphic design work, to send files (on 3.5” floppies), to print media outlets, while doing freelance work, in college and after college, for a year, before doing Master’s and Ph.D.starting with a Mac Quadra 660 A/V and moving to an iMac A/V, before switching to MacBooks Pro, as a prof, in Ad & PR (which became “Integrated Communication”), at UT @Austin, and then the E.W. Scripps School of Journalism, at Ohio, in Strategic Communication and grad theory and research...
"By July 1985, Commodore had everything going for it. The Amiga computer had been demonstrated in public to rave reviews, and everyone was excited at the potential of this great technology.
That's when the problems started… by October there were only 50 Amiga 1000 units in existence, all used by Commodore for demos and internal software development. Amiga 1000 computers did not start to appear in quantity on retail shelves until mid-November 1985. This was too late to make a significant impact on the crucial holiday buying season. Most retailers make 40 percent or more of their yearly sales over the holidays, and Commodore had missed the boat." - Classic Commodore. Like all their Osbourne effect faux pas and other marketing cockups and in-house competition.
@@mechamania Wow, that was a lot of words, a bit strangly arranged. ;)
Of course, most people reading here know those stories, platforms differences and personal preferences..
@@mechamania back then the best DTP system was the Atari STe with a 19" moniterm viking, Atari 300dpi laser and Calamus SL.
I started today restoring my A1000 and found that chip soldered in the same way, all on one side. And I see you also have those resistors near the video exit, R25 and friends, with two resistors where one was expected to be fitted... I guess some last moment fix.
Finally an A1K! Have two of these myself and I share your feelings about them. I also totally adore these lovely machines. In part 2 you definitely have to cover the sound jingle of the boot up sequence, Jan! So special about the 1000. I cross fingers that the keyboard works - I had to take apart every Mitsumi switch which took forever. Looking fwd to the 2nd part
I actually _like_ seeing the Commodore logo on there; it's a reminder of the parent company: the maker of the best-selling home computer of all time supposedly until just recently when some say the Raspberry Pi took over.
My first ever Amiga pickup was an A1000 and it got me hooked trying to fix it. No keyboard, no mouse, no kickstart, but it's slowly coming together. I'm so jealous you have a keyboard! Not sure about EU, but in the US if you traded your A1000 keyboard in you got a discount on an A500. So all the keyboards are missing!
What a wonderful computer the A1000 is. I really enjoy using mine. The keyboard takes some getting used to since the cursor keys are right where the enter key should be, so I always find myself hitting those by accident
Great video.. and what a donation from Dennis !
If you had a 220uF 400V I would have used that. The capacitor C159 with the leg out just bounced out during wave soldering like the IC on an angle. It belongs in the hole indicated by the silk screen. What make and model range did you use for the capacitors you replaced? What make model were they before replacement?
Am I missing something, why did you blanket recap it? Was the power supply/motherboard dead or faulty?
Preventative maintenance because the original caps are 34+ years old and can’t be trusted.
Throwing components at something may not always fix it, you know? I like to think the internet experts have contributed to such behaviour. It would be nice to measure the AC ripple coming off that power supply first, before any caps are changed so you can see if any work does in fact need doing. It’s problem solving, and turning back on after you change each component, to make sure you haven’t connected anything wrong. I’d like to see a lot more of that type of outlook on RUclips!
My brother and I had one back in the days... Brings back memories.
This is NOT a Motorola made CPU, it is an EF68000 which points to Thomson-CSF. At first, looking at the logo, I thought it is a Mostek CPU, but it should be marked MK68000. I checked that EF marking belongs to Thomson, then I realized that Tomson and Mostek logos have the same shape, but they are in negative ;)
Ha, you are right. Definitely not the Motorola logo. I didn't see that correctly.
I love the Amiga 1000 design! I was fortunate enough to get one from a local seller a few years back in original box :D I later managed to snag two lose A1000's one with keyboard and one without. I have a replacement GB A1000 PCB sitting here I should really look at populating and throwing into the A1000 case. It would really make the A1000 fly if I can ever work up the courage to start populating it :)
Often when plastic brittles it's because it dries up. At least some plastics like RC car parts become much flexier and stronger when you "cook" them in hot water for a few hours. I've done that to even new parts from the factory and the difference is really quite clear. The plastic absorbs moisture bad becomes less brittle. I don't know if it works with this type of plastic but might be worth trying on a test part at least.
I bought one of these as my first machine back in the late 80's. I still have it along with original packaging box and manuals. I did the modifications to increase the chip RAM and put the Kickstart in ROM.
Mine had 2 megs ram expansion and a sidecar with twin 30mb hard drives. After the kickstart I would load workbench into a recoverable ram drive, which could survive a reboot, meaning the workbench would then run at ram speed. The hard drives could be partitioned as amiga or ms-dos. The sidecar would allow pc-xt hardware to run, in an amiga window. I was able to run windows 3.0.
I also had a noisy fan, which I replaced.
I bought a hp paintjet colour printer, it was amazing. Cost a lot (about 2000 Australian dollars) at the time, now you get better for less than $50!
I still have the system but it hasn't been turned on in more than 20 years.
My 1st comment EVER on a video, but I dig that you use a swiss army knife as much as you do, I keep one in my pocket and its my go to for EVERYTHING when working on computer unless I just need more distance. But it was good enough for MacGyver it is good enough for me
I wonder if there is any chemical treatment that can make the plastic case less brittle?
Ganz großes Kino , meinen Respekt. Ich habe meinen Amiga 1000 vor 2 Wochen nach fast 30 jährigen Schlaf wieder reaktiviert. Die interne Floppy ist leider hin, ich nutze ein Gotek Laufwerk mit Kickstart 1.3 in Slot 1. Und meine Gehäuseteile bleichen gerade in der Sonne (Retrobright) .
Vielen Dank! Ja, die Diskettenlaufwerke altern leider nicht besonders gut. Wünsche viel Erfolg beim Bleichen! :)
Nice. The A1000 I have now and the one I had back in the day both have the Daughter Board. Honestly I would not mind having the cost reduced board because I never liked removing and installing the Daughter Board. On the other hand I prefer not having the Commodore Name on the front of the case because back then it was just the Amiga and it was special and having Commodores name on the front of the case just cheapens the perception and Commodore knew it which is why the did not put it there in the first place. That changed later I believe when they released in in Europe where Commodore commanded more love and respect then in the USA.
Does Turrican II use the 12-bit graphics mode?
You can service the rattly noisy fan.. Peel up the sticker on the spindle side, and you can drip some sewing machine oil or 3 in 1 etc light oil down into the spindle and it will relubricate it.
I got my Amiga 1000 in November 1986. Saved up for a while, though I was tempted briefly by an Atari ST. My fan made a noise right from day one, a sort up pulsating or phasing 'whom-whom-whom'. Most annoying. I got the 256k expansion and 1081 monitor at the same time. I got it from Precision Software - who created Superbase database software. I had no software to run on it, they had Aegis Images (a competitor to Deluxe Paint), so I got that. Where did those nearly 34 years go?
what solution do you use to connect the Amiga 1000 to that lcd? please guide me. thanks.
Nice content Jan, bonus disk drive works and I would retro brite all the case mate or even spray paint it....can't wait for pt2 mate 😁😁😁Kim😀😀😀
Hi Jan, the Amiga 1000 PSU case should always be directly ground connected to the motherboard, you will notice that the board makes contact to the PSU when built in. There are A1000 power supply versions that do not have a direct earth connection at the GND connections, but are capacitively grounded. Unfortunately, a voltage against earth can build up here, which then leads to quite unpleasant equalizing currents when connecting earth references (interface connections, monitor, etc.).
Oh, didn’t know that, thanks!
A nice rescue and looking forward to seeing it fully working. Hopefully some oil will rejuvenate the noisy fan. Usually works for me. Cheers.
Thanks! I didn’t try the oil yet, used a 12V silent fan as a replacement for now which works beautifully so far. I’ll give the oil a try though.
Your solution is more up to date. Even when working properly the old fans are noisy and who wants that! Cheers.
hello. Is there a df0/df1 switch for Amiga 1000?
I have some for 500 not sure if it is compatible. I have some with and without switch (reset 3 seconds). and if yes a schematic to install it ? (I know very little about the 1000)
This old computer seems very well engineered. I can only assume that the later Amiga 500 had a lot of those IC's that are in this design directly baked into the custom chips (which I think is in a different form factor to what I saw in the A500 - I could be wrong, it has been a long time since I looked at one). I did notice a couple of points where it looks like a couple of additional chips could have been deleted from the original design. I wonder if one of those points could be used to mount a Kickstart Rom. Something that does confuse me is why anyone would install a resistor and leave one end hanging? Surely it would have no effect and could be deleted from the design for cost saving.
One thing I would want to do with one of these is to install a hard drive (or some kind of modern alternative) to run the software from. You might want to consider something like one of the accelerators that TerribleFire has designed. They sit under the MC68000 chip and getting a board made for that would probably be a good way to partener up with PCBWay. These have IDE interfaces on them as well so they would make installing a hard drive style device much easier.
I remember when I was working at an electronics company, one of the co workers, a russian woman, used to get shocks from 250V caps. When testing our devices, our chief engineer didn’t uncharge the caps, so this woman when she got the boards, sometimes she got to the solder joints of the caps and got zapped. Of course she would blame him, emediately xD lol. His desk was directly behind hers, so she yelled his name directly too him, and he always laughed. He was right to! Always be careful when you’re working with electronics that carries a capacitance in such high voltages! She didn’t, she got zapped...
Thanks to the guy who donated it, it's great to see someone make a video with one of these.
As far as the missing cover goes. I made something similar out of a old tower before. It was a close match and I was able to cut a filler panel out and carefully glued it together. Another option would be to 3d print something too.
It’s been a while since I checked out your videos, it’s good to see your channel is doing well.
One important question - WHY THE HOT GLUE?!
To make it harder to repair in the future, or to increase resistance to vibrations when this thing will be mounted in a vehicle?
Because in switching power supplies, the capacitors vibrate in the switching frequency. They are usually glued down to dampen that and prevent premature failure.
@@JanBeta Today I Learned ;) Thanks!
Your wrist strap isn’t doing anything when not in circuit with the device you’re working on. If you have it connected to the earth ground, it has no effect on the computer, when the computer power cord isn’t connected. You should connect it to the ground plane of the computer.
I'm discharging the static buildup in my body to ground, also the working surface is a grounded ESD mat. I don't see why that would not work.
Jan Beta It’s not about you vs the earth, it’s you vs the ground plane of the board. The board itself can be of vastly different electric potential than you and the earth via the static charge affecting it the same as you or anything else for that matter. Its ground plane should be at the same ground plane as you. It does not magically “know” what the earth potential is without being connected to it with a conductor. When you’re the conductor, you’re the conductor what’s zapping it back to earth potential when you’re earth potential. Voltages are always about the relative difference.
@@jammi__ I have often wondered abut that as I always connect the strap to the earth plane on the mobo I am working on and I have noticed both Jan and Gadget UK seem to earth to a socket which always bothered me. I am relatively new to retro repairs and soldering so assumed they knew something I didn't. I have also seen other RUclipsrs connecting CRTs to earth on wall outlets when discharging the tube and again I would have thought you're best to earth it to its chassis not an earth socket?
As long as the device was earthed before the chassis should be near gound potential, after that when you have the grounding strap you prevent yourself from floating away from ground and as long as you keep touching the computer frame it will remain near ground too. If the mobo was left well insulated for a long time and at unknown potentials then just wearing the strap and touching the board directly does not work, untill you touch the chassis when things are probably OK again.
It does not really matter what potential everything is at, ground or whatever, as long as everything is at the same potential with each others and the equalizing is one through a high value resistor to prevent large currents.
@@JanBeta Because you have an entire plastic case of the computer isolating that motherboard from the mat, rendering it absolutely pointless to have around. Like @Ben Baselet explained, it doesn't matter which potential you're at, even if you were tens of millions of volts higher than earth, as long as you're not at a different potential from the device you're working on. Your mat doesn't do anything to help the situation, you need to have a connection between you and the ground plane of the board itself. Your antistatic work surface is there to prevent forming charges when you operate on the device, which is very different from being an useful earth conductor. If its purpose was being an earth conductor, it'd be very conductive, such as a sheet of copper. Instead, it's just rubberized conductive particles that at best has the conductivity of a very high-ohm resistor.
Good to see quality caps on the PCB and PSU, probably why it still works before a recap.
Get some Kickstart ROMs, it'll drive you insane having to boot from floppy.
Intersting. That's the first time I've ever seen a PAL A1000 motherboard. Mine has an NTSC REV A board in it which has the daughter board for the Kickstart RAM. It has a PAL Agnus in it though, but the composite video still outputs NTSC colour.
I think the first PAL boards had a daughter board, too. This seems to be the second revision of it. Information is pretty scarce though.
Oh yeah, I've heard of PCB Way. If you watch Perifractic Chris's videos, you can't _not_ hear of PCB way! He entertains us with his bold call-out of that in just about every one of his videos! Because as we know, "PCB" stands for "Perifractic Chris's Bravado"! :-D
Amazing Jan, well done I love the work you do. I hope you can manage to populate this ROM slots for a built in kickstart.
Hi Jan.
The CPU looks like it has a Rockwell logo on it more than a Motorola logo?
Yes, I didn‘t look closely enough. It’s not Motorola. Somebody said probably Thompson.
@@JanBeta rtellason.com/semiconductorlogos.html
I have a A1000 project - wish I could get help trying to replace the PSU with some new unit. This PSU supplies a clock signal.
I think there are replacement circuits for the A2000 tick signal. That should pretty much be the same as the A1000 signal I would guess (haven’t looked into that though). The rest of the PSU is relatively easy to replace.
I did the same tear down when I went to VCF East Workshop. I posted after wards how I thought the Amiga 1000 case feels super cheap and easy to break. I was getting bashed by all the Amiga fan boys for saying how much nicer an IBM 5160 felt working on in comparison to Amiga 1000
Haha, I can imagine that. I agree, the case feels pretty flimsy and the PCB is really thin compared to the more recent Amigas. The power supply is well made at least... ;)
What is in the shielded box on the mainboard?
Hey Jan. I'm waiting for a shipment from China of no external switch boot selectors for A500/2000 that I designed, I'm getting 5 surface mount assembled boards and don't need them all (JLCPCB). Would you want one or two after I test them and they work as designed? The board would plug into the CIA socket and you'd socket the CIA in the board. The idea is that you would use Amiga+Amiga+Ctrl to change the boot drive from internal to external by holding them for over 1 second and as such don't need any external switch (or a switch dangling in the trapdoor).
25:46 It probably said something like: "Bij het openen vervalt garantie" which means "Opening the case voids warranty"
Inserting precious original disks into untested Amiga drives. That never went wrong for me. T.T
It did work because of the ancient technicque he was using at 6:22 never tried it?
It always went wrong for me.
@@raulcortes937 ahhh percussive maintenance
That drive looks like a 1010 because it is a 1010, just like the internal 1581 (I think) on the 65, the 1571 on the 128-D, 1541 on the SX-64, and 1530/C2N on the PET 2000.
Might be a bit expensive in terms of postage, but there's an A1000 rf shield on ebay at the moment, it's in Australia of all places.
They didn't switch to the round DIN connector for the keyboard until the A2000.
Thoroughly enjoy watching restoration, especially Amigas. :-)
Thanks! More to come about the A1000. :)
I was shocked when you plugged the newly repaired PSU into that historic board, I thought you would have probed the power supply pins to check the voltages were right? Or did you do that off camera?
lol I would have too. I'm like EEEK!! lol
I suppse he did, however those are uncomparably better constructed than the infamous "bricks" (i know that because i run a later model with even bigger capacitors under load without even changing the capacitors because i was curious about how well it had survived, and you know wahet, i gor zero messurement errors from it(!) that's certanly more than i can say about litterar any modern PSU i ever used... even the best quality brands on the market for the regular consumers PC i had has run into some problems after about 10-15 years. Only PSU i had wich is better than those are from expensive test equpiment, but they are constructed differently compared to the normal computer ones so they can not realy be compared. However i think The russian space program used similar components in their computer equipment, i think Curious Mark made a test of the Soys clock and came to the same conclusion, he did not need to do anything at all after he messured everything properly... I know those computer PSU did not use realy high grade components in comparision, but my experience is that they shall be good to go at least 20-35 years after production date, apending on the particular component batches they used. Howevr a frind bloved one of the later non bricked Commodore OEM psu, but i strongly suspect it happened because he did not check the capacitors and just did put them under full load after they had sat for like 10 years, one realy need to be careful when re activating old capacitors that had been store for so long properly and give them a serie of soft starts before setting them under full load. (modern sheapo quality capacitors are always certnly shot after 15 years, so they can not be compared.) )
I did check the main 5V rail, the others only turn on with load but I took that risk (partially because I’m an impatient person when I’m eager to try something). Of course I should really have tested more thoroughly.
@@JanBeta
My experience from relity is that tose types (at least the very old ones) are not near that dangerous as the famous "bricks" so far (so far from my very limited experience from real life, since i only seen them fail capitaly one or two times when i sold old computers to friends i taught had more basic experience and knowledge from electric work then they actualy turned out to hawe... I taught it was obvious for him, at my friends skill of knowledge, to know how to softstart old CPU capacitors at least... ) i hawe not seen tose models sending out that load of overvoltage as the bricks often did if they fail capitaly, the ones i hawe seen (of the later models) only gave off bangs and smoke and shutted down. They seem to act more like the ones IBM used, not as the external Commodore PSUs.
I might be wrong, but that's my practical experience.
The early external "bricks" filled with epoxi on the otherside is an entire different story...
I newer use them without proper voltage protection circuits added in...
(However if one manage to remove the epoxi in some magic way the transformer inside them are actualy of high quality British made and worth saving, but unfortunatly it's almost impossible to get it out in one pice with home equipment... )
@@JanBeta I guessed you had tested them as I could tell you were really nervous about this machine. I think it's amazing that these original machines are still able to run all these years later.
You should go for the RetroBrite but maybe using a less agressive peroxide amount.
Hi Jan, great video, so intereting ! I'm doing exactly the same thing on my amiga 1000. Before replacing the capacitors of the power supply you replace 2 or 3 pieces. Is it 100% necessary. What are their purpose ?
The keyboard cable for all 1000’s is the RJ45 phone connection.
I’m sure the Commodore logo on the front only appeared on the units sold outside the US.
Actually it's RJ9 - 4P4C.
I bought a phone cord so that I could move the keyboard further away than just in front of the parking slot.
I wonder if you could shoehorn in an Amiga 3000 mobo in one of those cases for upgrade purposes. Maybe 3D print a lookalike case for one. In black. Replace the floppy drive with an SD card slot. Hmmm....
The capacitor for the RAM chips with one leg lifted seems to not be intentional :D
What is the purpose behind glue gunning the caps etc ?
To ensure they don't vibrate during transport.
Gluing the caps together keeps them from moving around, considering that the soldering points might get heat its a good idea.
@@sjarken3979 Thanks.
@@tomf3150 Thanks
To prevent vibration caused by the fast switching of the power supply and also keeps them in place during transport so the solder joints don't break etc for these relatively heavy components.
Whoa, interesting; I had forgotten about (or I don't remember if I ever really learned about) through-hole capacitors that look like through-hole resistors! Weird that that one was halfway off, doing nothing. I wonder how/why that happened. Do they use the same color code as resistors?
love yours vids and particularly the videos about the Amiga with the big A, the Amiga 1000!
"Yes, we do! Very nice." Haha so true, I feel the same way with Amiga restorations!
I need to open up my old 1000 and make sure nothing leaked...it was working fully last I turned it on.
It has a 1.5 meg daughter board(spirit I think) and a 2 meg sidecar bring it to 4 whole megs. NTSC US system.
A little suggestion. A quite unknown method to remove the glue: oil (that one used to fry stuff like potatoes, fish...). I know... then you have to remove the oil, but it works. The three solvents in earth: alcohol, soap and oil, if one fails the other works.
I had one of these at the first release. Mine was #3 in Sweden :-) I had the 256k expansion, 2080-monitor and Deluxe paint :-) Really miss it today...
You can use walnut chip blasting to give you less scratches by unifying the surface if ya wanted to that is
Replace ALL the capacitors? I thought you normally only needed to replace electrolytic ones.
Why did you not clean the fan, since you had taken the power supply apart ? I don't understand !
I ended up replacing it altogether, that’s why I didn’t pay much attention to the fan.
Hi,
I have one Amiga 1000, Amiga 3000 just a question how system do u use for branch on actually screen. (transform péritéléphonies an hdmi or ...) ?
I mostly use an OSSC upscaler for my Amigas. Great RGB to HDMI device.
@@JanBeta Thanks
I don't think you need to put heatsinks on the ceramic packaged chips. They might feel warmer because the ceramic package is actually way lower thermal resistance than plastic packages - so they cool themselves better actually ;-)
is the lifted leg resistor for if you swap out the 256k and put 512 in?
I thought so too initially. Turns out it is a bypass capacitor for the 5V supply of the RAM.
Can you repair MY A1000? It only works with its turbocard anymore....
I need a keyboard for my A1000 so hard to find
I have one !! and everything to go with it bought it in 1987, pity it smoked when I tried to turn it on
Hi! I thought sunlight could bring that back again. As always excellent job Jan
Maybe I’ll give that a try. Most of the case seems very much the original color still except for that back plate.
Looks more like a beautiful Atari 8-bit layout than a Commodore one? The great Jay Miner being involved with both could be part of that.
Winston Smith: While Atari always went for the simpler design for the "cheaper mass market", this one is completely different. Just compare the ST to the Amiga, tech-wise. The technology approaches are not even close. The ambition of the Amiga was huge, the marketing very poor.
The exterior design does look like Atari 8-bit to you? Interresting, it doesn't to me.
That kickstart floppy is like that heirloom watch in Pulp Fiction.
46:30 just inspired a t-shirt design with the slogan "Capacitors can affect your health, in a non-positive way".
What's the mod around minute 40?
Does anybody remember articles in Compute! Magazine in the early 80’s discussing the prototype amiga touted as able to run, apple II, AND Ti programs? Long before commodore gained the amiga?
You have a later pal version. early euro pal versions were half pal half ntsc and had the WCS daughter board. later pal had no WCS daughterboard. Whats interesting is the PSU provides the 50/60hz TICK to the motherboard.
Vielen Dank für das tolle Video!
Fun video Jan thank you!
Nice video again. If one person can refurbishing an Amiga it would be you. Fun to hear that you can read Dutch. In what city do you live? I live close near the German border.
This summer you'll have definetely to retrobright it!!!!!!
Though i don't own an Amiga 1000 i found your video really interesting to watch...as i practically do on all your repairing videos ;-D
Oh, thank you! Never thought I’d own an A1000 myself, very happy to be able to work on one now. :)
You never peeked under that metal can? I guess it's mostly just the clock generator stuff but still worth a clean maybe.
Ohhhhhhhh
This One i bought in 1986 for 1600 DM (German Mark)
It was a Great Computer and i loved it
Great video! In Europe, Amiga 1000 was always sold with 512 KB RAM, you could not buy it with only 256 KB.
Hallo Jan,
Wahnsinn eine channelspende 🙂 freue mich für Dich und bin gespannt wies weiter geht 👍🏼als ich vor vier jahren nach dem 1000er gekuckt habe bin ich vom preis schon vom stuhl gefallen 😂
Awesome video, I hope you at least do a few restomods, where you max out the RAM, and populate a proper kickstart ROM.
Thanks! The plan is to first restore it to original and then see about some upgrades. I’ll probably not fully max it out though, I have other Amigas for that. ;)
Funny point, the manufacturer of the power supply seems to still exist and still produces power supplies but for vehicles, charging stations etc
"SHINDENGEN ELECTRIC MFG. CO.,LTD"
I had an Amiga 1000 and 2000, but trashed them both. I just called my action being a protest against wasteful consumerism. But I did contribute to pollution which is the ultimate outcome of consumerism. ;)
@reeder 76 People like me who all too often make bad consumer choices need to see a psychiatrist. But buying new things satisfies some kind of urge I have? Maybe being bombarded with advertising all the time has something to do with it?