Dear Jim, Thank you so much for your very helpful diagnosis.. I had been plaqued with this problem for months chugging around without much speed with intermittent stalls, though short lived, would let the engine recove so I could keep going. I do a lot of my own car maintenance on my 2006 Element with 150K miles. I knew the day would come when I would have to part with my Element, but thankfully I feel it is back back to normal. Normally, I would attempt a repair like this, but the estimates I got were very pricey, both from a dealter, and a private repair. I decided to a tray at it. My girl friend agreed to help me, and we were are to remove the pressure switch and solenoid. We had difficulty removing the two connectors and I am always afraid of pulling the wires but we were able to take a small screw driver while simultaneously pressing the tab to work them off. Sure enough, the small screen filter was clogged with dirt and caked up oil. We soaked the entire unit carb cleaner, soaked and cleand it out. Re-installing it was another thing. We cleaned the surface of the engine block carefully so as not to get dirt back into the holes where the switch installs. It was difficult to reach in align the part with the mounting holes. Finally I crawled under the Element and with the flash light guided my girl friend to position it so we guided in the first mounting bolt. We checked again for any dirt in the area, and were able to insert the other two mounting bolts. Then we carefully tightened them all evenly. We reconnected the two connectors and it was nice to hear them "click." The Element started right up and we took it for a test drive and were able to drive both slow and high speeds with no stalls at high speed. The engine feels like it was back to normal. Lots of high fives, so we cleaned up, got dressed and went out for drinks to celebrate .. It's been a couple of weeks since the repair, and it is running fine. .. Again, Thanks Jim, you're the greatest ! Nadia
you all prolly dont give a shit but does any of you know a way to log back into an instagram account? I was dumb forgot the password. I appreciate any help you can offer me!
@Harold Nickolas Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site on google and I'm in the hacking process now. Takes quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
Replaced he solenoid and was still getting the P2646 and 2647, followed the instructions to get the screen under the tensioner and cleaned it out, ended up working perfectly.
i wish i could give you a million thumbs up, what you describe as the engine bogging down or misfiring is exactly what happened to me the other night and my code reader said "P2646", i'm replacing the struts all around and when i jacked my element up and took the passenger side tire off to inspect the ball joints i noticed oil had dripped down the side of the oil pan from above right in the spot where the Valve Assembly. thank you so much for this video
So I'm an original owner of an 05. I've had the P2646 come on about 5 times since 2013 (11 years). I literally have a dozen of each of those two screens in my glove box. They get switched out on every oil change making it expensive. I've also replaced the assembly 3xs (two OEM). I watched another video last night and it could be possible water intrusion from either a poor coral seal or the wiper spray gadget. That will be my next step as I'm pretty religious on oil changes and keeping the E topped between. And it makes sense given that the assembly is exposed vs in the accord and other models. Just another thing to chase.
Also if your going to replace solenoid don’t buy cheap aftermarket and be careful I bought a oem Honda solenoid off eBay new for 42.00. I kinda knew for that price it was probably a fake but I took a chance. Sure enough it did not work. I bought a used oem take off from eBay for 20.00 and works perfect. New ones cost 150-180.00. If buying for that price got to a dealer. This repair is somewhat easy. Took me about and hour . Great video.
It's almost always water in the connectors. when you open the Element hood wet, water runs right down into the connectors. trust me. dry out and seal the connectors first. it almost always works.
Thanks for the help on my 2006 Honda Element. Note if you have very clean oil and you can't get the part right away. This is a short term fix until the new part arrives. You can Remove the Solenoid as Jim shows and remove the screen from the gasket. Reinstall the solenoid without the screen and your back to VTEC power until the new part arrives.
@@jimthecarguy hey I replace the solenoid whit the oil pressure sensor the whole part and changed the the small gasket that goes in front and I still got the same code what should I do
@@richard45231 I have done everything, can give you a list, even opened the sensor hole wider to allow more oil in it and make the oil pressure disconnect the stupid ground to allow the Vtec engage , only thing left is to take apart the connector to connect the wires directly to the sensor to be sure has a good connection, last sensor even was good , I did some test with the voltmeter, but the stupid code was there 🤬
Fantastic idea ! Next time it throws the code I’m going to take the screen out of the Vtec solenoid gasket to restrict less the oil pressure, anyway the engine is clean, synthetic oil, changed on time and some other filter remains in the oil pathway 👍
Hey Jim, I just bought a 2005 Element with 148,000 miles and twenty miles later it did the same thing the vehicle you worked on did. Above 3,000mph not only does mine shudder, but the engine power shuts off and I have to let off the throttle for a few seconds, then it will come back. Error codes P2646 low oil pressure & P2647 high oil pressure came up. I watched a bunch of video's and low oil level could be the cause for P2646 so I checked the oil level. It was down to the lower hole on the dipstick and it took about a quart of oil to bring it up to the top hole, full mark. It didn't make a difference so I'm confident the two screen filters are clean because the problem is intermittent which tells me it's either the oil pressure switch or the solenoid. I bought a complete assembly, Duralast brand from Autozone as shown in this video for $92 including tax, Mobil 1 5w-20 high mileage full synthetic oil and a Genuine Honda oil filter. I'm hoping the rubber gasket is okay for the front screen filter because this has to come from the dealer and I haven't bought it yet. Any kind of sealant shouldn't be used because it may obstruct the oil passage and or break loose clogging the passage if too much is used and if the rubber gasket is flush with the aluminum cap, it may end up leaking therefore I will replace it. I really like this CRV and it's a big change from my 1997 GMC S-15 Sonoma 3 door extended cab with the Vortex V6 automatic RWD that I bought new and put 245,000 miles on it, then a 2001 Chevy S-10 with everything the same except it had electric windows that I put about 4,000 miles on it from 216,000 miles when I bought it. I'm a retired motorcycle technician and machinist so this is no big deal to do this except I don't enjoy wrenching anymore, but I'll get it done soon when weather permits. Great video.
...my P2646 issue is very intermittent too. Usually occurring on a long drive and while going uphill. To get past it I have to coast to the side of the road...turn ignition off...then restart. After that it's good for 30 mins or so then returns. Got my new OEM VTEC solenoid assembly yesterday. Didn't realize there is another screen to clear by the PS pump. This K24 engine isn't as bulletproof as claimed.
@@steveburke7675 I didn't initially find out about the second screen until I watched a few good information videos. What I don't understand is why did Honda engineers program the ECM/ECU to not allow the engine to go past 3,000rpm causing the engine to shutter until it drops below this rpm putting on the engine warning light. Why couldn't they have programed the computer to not engage the 3rd intake rocker for each cylinder which gives the valves more lift and duration and allow it to run past 3.000rpm and just put up the engine warning light. My Element is a four speed and when there's a problem i can only go 69mph. Once I hit 70mph the engine shuts down until I slow down to 61mph then it kicks back on.
@@steveburke7675 mine is a 4 speed automatic. Being a manual like yours it's probably worse than mine because if you don't downshift you won't have the power to accelerate to get going again once the engine kicks in.
Thank-you so much. Have the same problem so someone told me that I have to buy the motor ..It cost $1400 rebuild ..But now looking in to your video of m gonna try this first than you so much for sharing
2005 Element owner here with the same issue. I already ordered the part, I found it on eBay for $40 including shipping, genuine Honda part. Thanks for the how-to, will be attempting this by the end of the week (I hope lol). I feel better about having already ordered the VTEC solenoid for this exact code and issue.
@@jimthecarguy I wholeheartedly agree. I will spend more for genuine parts for my Honda or my Fords. With enough searching, you can find decent deals on OEM parts, if you can wait for shipping haha
@@jimthecarguy Hey Jim, the solenoid replacement didnt go as planned, one of the bolts was rounded off, and the Honda was scheduled to go in the shop for CV axles (and a couple other things), so I let them change it. Vehicle drives great, and the problem is solved. Have a good one, and thanks again.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I'm facing this same issue on my 05 element right now. Seems wise to just replace it. When "the shudder" happens and you lose power in heavy traffic it is definitely not fun!
Hard work. !!!! Thanks for the info. !!!! I don’t understand why the engine has all these screen filters. !! How about the oil filter. !!!!! I’m getting sick of my Element. !! Everything is CKECK ENGINE !!!! Catalytic, oxigen sensors gas cap - Vtec etc etc. !! I fix one and I have two more coming. !!!’
Thank you for your video, was able to fix my 2005 Element and get it running again! I did have to return the generic part and use the Honda's part, more expensive but worth it. My first part worked briefly and the the CEL went back on and car started stuttering, the part was defective. Thanks for your videos, so helpful.
The original lasted 14 years...the first replacement from Advance Auto lasted 3 years. The latest part from Advance Auto, it was $90, not the super cheap Chinese parts on Ebay , did not make it a week. They will not refund/credit, only replace it with one of there's. Avoid these guys, stick with HONDA OEM on this one.
Great information for those with k series Honda engine like myself!! Great job jim, I don't have a DTC for this yet for my 06 CRV! But just for some preventative maintainance, I'll check the screen filters, and clean them out really good! Awesome video!!!! Love it! (Like,with thumbs up!) just need to figure out the creeks ands squeaks from the rear end suspension when winter seasons hits and the temperature goes below -30 degrees. Driving me nuts once the cold season comes around!
Jim, I have Honda Element 2010 and experiencing exactly the same problem the 2004 Honda Element. The engine light is on, VSA light is on as well, and I cannot accelerate over 3k RPM. I have always serviced my Honda Element every 3k and the dealer performs it. So, my oil is fresh and perfect oil level. I received a code scanner and received P2646. I drop off to the Honda dealer and VTEC assembly was replaced, but after two months the engine light and VSA light came back. Since, I have parts warranty, I took back to the Honda dealer, and they held my car for 3 days. I was told the oil pressure switch is faulty and they have replaced it. After 3 weeks, all light came back with exact same issue. I drop off to the dealer this evening and hope they fix the problem once for all. I know they haven't touched or bothered to clean the solenoid filter located front at the engine. Please advise me what to do next; I watched your video and planning to do exactly what you have done and see if that will take care the issue. Thank you!
Hi Jim, I have this P2546 that will not go away, Did the Vtec, Replaced the oil, Cleaned the screens,dropped the pan cleaned the pick up area, Cleared the code and can get it to go away for a few days checked the oil pressure(good) But the check engine light keeps coming back. been to Honda dealer they could not find a problem been to my local shop again No problem found. It runs well except occasional once the light comes back on it will Buck a few time and then run fine Does it both at 55mpg and in town 25 or so Mpg. I am stumped as to what to try next this car is a 2006 and only has 134000 miles on it. Any ideas?
My 04 Element has the same power loss at 3000 rpm or when the load is increased on engine. It keeps throwing a P0365 Cam sensor code even after I replaced it. One mechanic said the code may also be in the variable timing solenoid. It's a component of this part that was replaced- correct? It will cost a $100 to diagnose the cut-out or a little more if I just replace that assembly. Is that a good bet?
Been dealing with this lately. I replaced this part and the vvt solenoid on the side of the engine and it’s still throwing 2646 code. I’m losing my mind. What could be the issue?
I have had the P2646 code twice. Both times, It was the day after a very hard day long rain, and I also had not driven it the day it was raining. Both times, I drove it for a couple miles the day after the rain, stopped at a store, started it back up and pulled out only to get the code and limp mode.
Funny, we had flooding rains earlier this week and here I am again looking for solutions. Im going to pull every electrical plug, clean it, and use dielectric lube on everything!
Pretty sure I just fixed it, sprayed electrical cleaner in all the open spots on the wire connection on the left side of the engine, and the connection just back around the rear of engine on the corner. I think water is getting in the rear of the plugs.
Quick question, if I've done literally everything you've mentioned in this video and still have the same problem what should I do next? I have the exact code and the same problems you said with the shuttering and loss of power.
@@richard45231 took me 3 tries but I finally got it. What ended up working for me was getting a factory vtec solenoid from the dealership and the factory harness. Not sure which fixed the problem but it worked. I’ve heard through the grape vine the auto part store solenoid just won’t do the trick for some reason and it is necessary to get the factory part. Hopefully this helps
I've been chasing this issue with our "around town Element" for over a year now and the code finally showed up. Will be swapping this unit out and hoping it resolves the issue.
Very helpful! The smaller screen on the front by the tensioner is leaking profusely on mine. Any idea what this part is called? Id rather just replace it! Otherwise got it all cleaned up from the leak for inspection, and got the replacement vtech solenoid. Fingers crossed!
I have replaced my Spool valve , cleaned the strainer behind the power steering pump and did a oil change with 5W-20 and I still have codes P2646 and P2647. Oil control valve next?
We used this video to change the parts on my 03 Element and found it very helpful. Can I recommend maybe putting the part names or numbers in the description ? Not knowing the names of the parts was the hardest part of searching for them. Also when you have the belts off and have access to the spool gasket, you may as well swap it out for a new one, I found mine had a small tear in it and we had wait for a new part. So I recommend getting both parts ,the "Cam adjust solenoid" and the "spool valve filter gasket" I got both new OEM for about 130$.
jeremy cobert hey Jeremy I have a 2003 Honda Element with p2646 & p2647 fualt codes 3 months ago I replace the vtc solenoid valve due to vehicle lost power at acceleration and vehicle felt like stalling. after replacing that valve I cleared the fault codes ,roadtest vehicle and vehicle drove like champ. now vehicle has the same issue as before and fault codes are the same. my question is , if the screen is durty it will affect the vtc valve ? I asking that cuz I didn't clean it when I replace it ,as u did on this video. please let me know.
jeremy cobert yes I did 3 months ago. but the information u posted it helpme alot , thanks. I checked voltage from ACM to the vtc connector sensor , voltage was at battery voltage , check resistance on sensor, the sensor was bad, I installed factory part at that time I couldn't believe that it failed to soon. thanks for the ur replay.
So, is it all fix now? Because my 06 Element does it some times. I don't want to bring it in and get the same results. What was the total cost to you and the cost you think it would have cost for a mechanic to charge? Thanks. After my first oil change after buying this used, it didn't show up for months. I used only the recommended oil for the 06 Element. I did go over the recommended oil change time. We'll see if it shows up again. I think if I do long hwy mileage it show up again. This is the AutoZone code which I got twice within a few months when it shows up. The exact same thing: Definition: Code P2646 indicates the PCM detedted that the variable cylinder management system was stuck in the "off" position. Error Codes Read: P2646 Rocker Arm Oil Pressure Switch (VTEC Oil Pressure Switch) Circuit Low Voltage.
Jim, great video. I erased the code and changed my oil/filter. Does it matter if I just wait to see if it comes back on and not do anything else until then? In other words, is there much risk in waiting to see?
I HAVE A GROWLING NOISE FROM CHAIN AREA AT LOW RPM. NOISE STOPS ABRUPTLY JUST BEFORE 2000 RPM. I'M THINKING THIS IS DUE TO LOW OIL PRESSURE. LIGHT FLICKERS AT IDLES AND SOMETIMES STAYS SOLID UNTIL RPM IS INCREASED. AFTER WATCHING YOUR VIDEO I REMOVED BOTH SCREENS. REAR ONE WAS FILTHY BUT FRONT ONE NOT TOO BAD BUT A LOT OF METAL SHAVINGS. MY QUESTION TO YOU IS WHAT COULD THE METAL BITS BE FROM? IF THE SCREEN PROTECTS SOMETHING THE BITS MUST BE IN THE OIL FLOW PRIOR TO THE SCREEN BUT I CAN'T DETERMINE WHAT IN PRIOR OTHER THAN OIL PUMP. ANY HELP APPRECIATED. KEN
It has been a year since you posted. Did you find a solution? The metal shavings were also found in the part they removed in my element. Had the the part replaced yesterday only for the problem to persist. They are doing an engine flush and suspect that the new VVT was defective. Hope this works out because everyone else seems stumped.
@@Breadbag I ended up replacing both solenoids with OEM parts. Along with cleaning out the screen behind the belt tensioner. I believe the aftermarket parts I used were faulty causing the problem to continue
Hey guys, Not really mechanical, How much do you think Honda would charge for this?, or just take a breath and give it a shot? I have a 07 Element 140 k...thanks Jake
Thanks just had this problem with my 2003 I've never seen that code before changed the oil it was good for a day then it started again so I ordered the whole valve thanks for the video
Hi Jim, I am getting this code on my 2003 Element. I get this code and same acceleration symptoms after a very heavy rain. The first time it just went away. Nowt the CEL is on now and I am getting the code. Do you recommend I just turn off the code? Do you recommend I do something about the electrical connections? I am convinced the problem is water in the engine compartment. Thanks in advance.
This is a common problem . Without the correct diagnostic tool it will be difficult to be certain. There is a service bulletin about this intermittent problem. If it were me I would take a gamble and replace the assembly and clean out the screen. Keep me posted.
Jim I never got a response back from you. 05 element bucking jerking won’t go pass 3000 Rpms. No solenoid codes. Only P0507 and Abs light. Right driver spindle does not have a sensor on it. Will that make the vehicle buck and jerk like it’s the trans.
Sorry,you probably answered this 100 times... I have changed oil,and cleaned the 2 screens. the one in the pressure switch assembly was pretty clean,but the one next to the belt tensioner was pretty bad.. I had cleaned it,and reinstalled,but after clearing the P2646 code with my scanner,I still get the code when I went to drive it.. I have a 2003 Honda Accord 2.4 ... What would I do next? just replace the whole assembly ? Whats the best place I can find the part ? Much thanks
2003 Element. Same issue here. Have changed the entire assembly twice. Both times the problem straightened out for a month then back to limp mode. Struggling to make sense of this problem.
Thanks for replying. I went aftermarket both times. The last one was Spectre. I should’ve known that I needed OEM. I’m hoping that’s the whole problem.
Good video. I had same 2646 code. I replaced entire solenoid assembly to be same. Problem solved. How much do you tighten the 3 screws that secure the solenoid to the block? Thx
Jim, thanks for the reply. Yeah it sucks! Do you know what the actual part number of the full unit is, because the car still isn't right now, so I'm guessing it's going to have to have the switch assembly replaced now. It's un-driveable. I can't go above 3,000 rpm or 50mph whichever comes first. Even after clearing the code, it will get up to speed then in about 6 miles it will bogg right back again.
Replaced mine last month and now again this month!!! Is it the same problem or was it a bandaid for something else that was the problem but the new selenoid sorta patched it but not cured it??
08 Honda Element lx with 187600 miles on it. Has p2646 code. Car goes into limp mode and won't go above 3000 rpms but problem stops when the engine is shut off and on while driving (until it comes back on of course) I've replaced the Vtec solenoid and the sensor on it. I have also cleaned out one of the screens for the oil. I'm not sure what else to do because it's still happening and it's been a year now
@jimthecarguy good evening ive done all this and still have the same problem flushed engine , 2 oil changes ,2 oem parts vtec and problem still keeps coming back need help please
Jim I did this unit initial started no issue... degrees engine let sit 24hrs..unit turns over kills battery, BUT never start again? removed new part and reinstalled old part that flagged OBD code 2646, STILL , unit won't start....pls.help
hey there i know i’m a bit late and i hope you can get back to me, i’m having an issue with my j30a4 that i can’t seem to figure out, solenoid has been changed, oils been changed, wirings been professional checked out, the problem is a p2649 code and the car is not engaging vtec and giving me a 3500 rev limiter, is it possible my rocker arm is clogged or stuck in place?
I've got a 2005 Honda Odyssey with this 2.4 engine aswell. And is having same code. Are they all the same part and fitment in my Australian Odyssey at all? Its in the same place as this Just curious before I order the part. Thanks mate
Hi Jim , I made a mistake by turn the wrong way on the screw while I was trying to open it to replace a PCV on my 2016 Honda Accord ,, screw was stripped ,,,I couldn’t remove it out now ,,please help ,Thanks
Hi, great video, and still getting views. I just bought an 05 fwd 5 speed manual and it’s not plated yet so I can’t test drive. But in my driveway I can’t get the car to rev higher then 4K rpm. I was wondering if there was a neutral rev limiter on this to protect the engine or if I’m having clogging issues. Do you know if the element should be able to rev higher then 4K in neutral/ gear w clutch?
I got this code and it was the oil pressure sensor on the soleniod assembly, so I didn't have to take the whole thing out and replace. 2006 4WD Honda Element.
Jim is it absolutely necessary to remove the pump and belt after changing the assembly. I feel like I can get away with the assembly change but I’m scared I won’t be able to put the belt back on.
Hi Jim, how do you remove the harness on the back of the assembly? The two on the top just squeeze and pull, but the one on the back, is that just zip tied to the hole above the three bolt holes?
thanks for the vid, Jim. this may seem like a dumb question but do I have to drain all the oil out first before removing these parts? Is oil going to come pouring out if I don't when I remove the solenoid and or small screen?
+David Guerra First let me say there is no such thing as a foolish question.It is foolish not to ask a question.As for leaking out oil no it will not have to be drained only a small amount of oil will come out.Let me know how you do.Jim
Hi Jim i watched your video very helpful , i appriciate it . I replaced my solenoid everything was perfect for 2 weeks then started getting same issue do you think it can be the oil pressure switch ?
The screen is part if the o-ring. Anytime u unbolt this part you have to change the gasket. So in theory you are replacing the screen when u buy a new gasket for $12 at Napa
I have a 2006 Honda odyssey it gives me the code P2649 Rocker arm oil control solenoid VTEC solenoid valve circuit high voltage. Do I just change the part or worry about high-voltage? I also have other codes P2770, P0970, P0980, P0966, P0974. There all giving me high input, high circuit or low circuits. Should I just change the parts or is this a different issue? The car wouldn’t start I thought it was a battery and alternator issue. I replaced both of them. The car ran for a few miles and it shut off on me I couldn’t start it without a jump. Also I need to mention before it shut off on me every time I stopped and try to accelerate it hardly did.
I did all this 2 weeks ago and worker great, but not its doing it again but worse. If I'm driving the car starts like before but if I'm holding the gas and let to to try to drive it won't let me for like 5 seconds.
Hey Jim, I have this same issue but I already changed the vtec solenoid and after I got a high voltage code and got that switched as well. Then I got the p2646 code for the low voltage but this usually only happens when I have my air conditioner on. Any tips or what should I do?
hi jim, hope you can notice this. i am working in honda odessey 2007, code is p2646, i replaced the vtec solenoid. after 1 day, the code appeared again and running crazy again. i also did a pressure test and the reading was about 19-20psi. i'm not sure if the pressure is still good. what's the best way to fix it? i'm thinking that there may be an oil sludge, so do you recommend taking the oil pan off and clean the oil pick up? thanks jim
I am a mechanic but I am not familiar with the V tec I understand how it works, so I have checked everything and its all good, but I keep getting p2646 code. I changed the solenoid assemble that checked good and still no luck. Can someone explain what the solenoids purpose is because I manually activated it and hear it click but it don't have any effect on the engine. When I energize the spool valve it has a change on the engine running. All screens are clean
my son has a 04 Acura RSX-s . Iam trying to see if there is a leak from this area, could this be a cause for the car to go through oil. I don't see much if any on the floor. Can it cause oil to burn in the engine, I don't see any black smoke. No codes have been shown. thanks
+Kevin Stanard If there is no leaks under the car and you are using the correct weight oil then the only other possibility is the engine is burning oil.If you remove the spark plugs see if there is any oil residue on them.Keep me posted.Jim
I just change the spool valve assembly yesterday and drove the car but still do in the same thing 3000 rpm start cutting off what else it could b the problem?thanks
I just find out that went the truck is cold works fine it goes over 3000 rpm but went gets hot start doing the same problem doesn't go over 3000 rpm and start cutting off again
I have a 2005 Honda odyssey with a 3.5 L VTEC engine in it I just bought it about a month ago it has the code P 2646 I change the part that said it was and I still have that code. the code will not go away I was even told that maybe the computer was bad so I bought another used computer and put it and I still got the same code just wondering if you have any ideas what that might be as far as the code goes thanks
JIM, good fix and info is this issue caused by mechanical problem of the solenoid or because the lack of oil change most of the time. thanks for sharing cheers.
j georges Most of the time it is due to lack of oil changes but in this case it was the failure of the solenoid. Thanks for watching and your feedback.Jim
Hey so I bought a 2004 element with 87k for 5500 i test drove it work good but I didn't try the heat ac was ok so I brought it home from ny to pa but did a pit stop in nj shell station route 206 then it sat for a week. Next time I start it the heat didn't work onlet hose to heater core was hot the other room temperature shortly after the engine start to shake like crazy the send code misfire p0300, p0301 n p0302 and later it did say misfire on all 4 cylinder I install new plugs I swap one coil pack for new but befor that when I disconnected each coil pace at a time the engine did rev up some thinking it not coil pack. Now I'm thinking it might be bad gas as I was very low on gas when I did a complete fill up but it drove like 40 miles good any suggest help plz tnks
So I have a 2006 honda pilot thats getting this code p2646 with a p420 ive replaced the vtec variable assembly and code was gone for about a week and now its back please advise
I've got a 2003 crv, same motor. I'm having the oil pressure switch issue. I've changed the switch but still have the same issue after acouple of days. Especially when it's cold. Now when you installed it, did the check engine disappear, or do you reset it?
What is the name of this part? Mine is throwing the code for the oil switch. I think it would probably be best to replace the whole thing since I’m at 205,000 miles. Thanks!
Hey Jim, will this tutorial help with a 2004 Honda Civic? i got the same error code and definition (Code p2646 indicates that the variablee cylinder management system was stuck in the "off" position). my engine gasket also needs cleaning... would cleaning the gasket and replacing the VTEC Solenoid fix the issue?
jimthecarguy, should I get from Honda VTEC Solenoid & what is the part # for 2005 CR-V? Replaced one with Duralast #TS1147 (Autozone) & after 2 weeks, got same problem.
i had this happen on my 2003 element. We replaced the V-Tech solenoid along with the pressure switch. After about 2 months it went out again. it had a warranty on the part so we just swapped it out again. then after a month it went out again! i took it to honda to have them diagnose. they said its the pressure switch, and the cables look a little corroded. so we switched it out again and put new cables in it. same day the light came on again.... if i clear the code i can sometimes drive fro a day without the light coming on. we're at a loss of what to do next, and every mechanic just says its the pressure switch or the V-tech solenoid, both of which have been changed out 4 times.... anyone? help....
Jackson Cruz not yet. We are taking it back to Honda next week for more testing. Hopefully they'll be able to tell me if it's the computer malfunctioning... or maybe an oil pump issue (which wouldn't make to much sense as my oil pressure stays within the acceptable range)... we've ruled everything else out. I read some forums online that are rather disheartening when it comes to this problem...
3CKid Yes. I am having exact same issues as you. I replaced my VTEC valve assembly with a new Honda one. I removed and replaced the VTC screen behind the power steering pump and still have same issue. Done 2 oil changes issue still remains. If you have an update can you please let us know?
I'm going to be in this boat shortly. The oil pressure switch went bad and I replaced it a year ago. The new one finally went bad (it's leaking oil onto the contacts) but replacing it did nothing. So I replaced the whole assembly. Still nothing. Going to hit that screen next even though my oil is in good shape. Lastly: I don't think I have seen it here yet but there is a second oil pressure switch on the other side of the motor. Looking into that as well.
Dear Jim,
Thank you so much for your very helpful diagnosis.. I had been plaqued with this problem for months chugging around without much speed with intermittent stalls, though short lived, would let the engine recove so I could keep going.
I do a lot of my own car maintenance on my 2006 Element with 150K miles. I knew the day would come when I would have to part with my Element, but thankfully I feel it is back back to normal. Normally, I would attempt a repair like this, but the estimates I got were very pricey, both from a dealter, and a private repair. I decided to a tray at it.
My girl friend agreed to help me, and we were are to remove the pressure switch and solenoid. We had difficulty removing the two connectors and I am always afraid of pulling the wires but we were able to take a small screw driver while simultaneously pressing the tab to work them off.
Sure enough, the small screen filter was clogged with dirt and caked up oil. We soaked the entire unit carb cleaner, soaked and cleand it out.
Re-installing it was another thing. We cleaned the surface of the engine block carefully so as not to get dirt back into the holes where the switch installs. It was difficult to reach in align the part with the mounting holes.
Finally I crawled under the Element and with the flash light guided my girl friend to position it so we guided in the first mounting bolt. We checked again for any dirt in the area, and were able to insert the other two mounting bolts. Then we carefully tightened them all evenly. We reconnected the two connectors and it was nice to hear them "click."
The Element started right up and we took it for a test drive and were able to drive both slow and high speeds with no stalls at high speed. The engine feels like it was back to normal.
Lots of high fives, so we cleaned up, got dressed and went out for drinks to celebrate ..
It's been a couple of weeks since the repair, and it is running fine. ..
Again, Thanks Jim, you're the greatest !
Nadia
Great job Nadia, I'm happy to help.If you have any other problems you should replace the solenoid and pressure switch assembly.Jim
you all prolly dont give a shit but does any of you know a way to log back into an instagram account?
I was dumb forgot the password. I appreciate any help you can offer me!
@Apollo Justice Instablaster ;)
@Harold Nickolas Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site on google and I'm in the hacking process now.
Takes quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
Replaced he solenoid and was still getting the P2646 and 2647, followed the instructions to get the screen under the tensioner and cleaned it out, ended up working perfectly.
Gonna have to do this on mine as well, I didn't clean the screen behind tensioner.
i wish i could give you a million thumbs up, what you describe as the engine bogging down or misfiring is exactly what happened to me the other night and my code reader said "P2646", i'm replacing the struts all around and when i jacked my element up and took the passenger side tire off to inspect the ball joints i noticed oil had dripped down the side of the oil pan from above right in the spot where the Valve Assembly.
thank you so much for this video
So I'm an original owner of an 05. I've had the P2646 come on about 5 times since 2013 (11 years). I literally have a dozen of each of those two screens in my glove box. They get switched out on every oil change making it expensive. I've also replaced the assembly 3xs (two OEM). I watched another video last night and it could be possible water intrusion from either a poor coral seal or the wiper spray gadget. That will be my next step as I'm pretty religious on oil changes and keeping the E topped between. And it makes sense given that the assembly is exposed vs in the accord and other models. Just another thing to chase.
Also if your going to replace solenoid don’t buy cheap aftermarket and be careful I bought a oem Honda solenoid off eBay new for 42.00. I kinda knew for that price it was probably a fake but I took a chance. Sure enough it did not work. I bought a used oem take off from eBay for 20.00 and works perfect. New ones cost 150-180.00. If buying for that price got to a dealer. This repair is somewhat easy. Took me about and hour . Great video.
Thank you for your input. Yes go with the OEM from the dealer. Thank you for watching . Don't forget to subscribe.
It's almost always water in the connectors. when you open the Element hood wet, water runs right down into the connectors.
trust me. dry out and seal the connectors first. it almost always works.
Thanks for the help on my 2006 Honda Element. Note if you have very clean oil and you can't get the part right away. This is a short term fix until the new part arrives. You can Remove the Solenoid as Jim shows and remove the screen from the gasket. Reinstall the solenoid without the screen and your back to VTEC power until the new part arrives.
Glad it helped
@@jimthecarguy hey I replace the solenoid whit the oil pressure sensor the whole part and changed the the small gasket that goes in front and I still got the same code what should I do
@@richard45231 I have done everything, can give you a list, even opened the sensor hole wider to allow more oil in it and make the oil pressure disconnect the stupid ground to allow the Vtec engage , only thing left is to take apart the connector to connect the wires directly to the sensor to be sure has a good connection, last sensor even was good , I did some test with the voltmeter, but the stupid code was there 🤬
Fantastic idea ! Next time it throws the code I’m going to take the screen out of the Vtec solenoid gasket to restrict less the oil pressure, anyway the engine is clean, synthetic oil, changed on time and some other filter remains in the oil pathway 👍
Hey Jim, I just bought a 2005 Element with 148,000 miles and twenty miles later it did the same thing the vehicle you worked on did. Above 3,000mph not only does mine shudder, but the engine power shuts off and I have to let off the throttle for a few seconds, then it will come back. Error codes P2646 low oil pressure & P2647 high oil pressure came up. I watched a bunch of video's and low oil level could be the cause for P2646 so I checked the oil level. It was down to the lower hole on the dipstick and it took about a quart of oil to bring it up to the top hole, full mark. It didn't make a difference so I'm confident the two screen filters are clean because the problem is intermittent which tells me it's either the oil pressure switch or the solenoid. I bought a complete assembly, Duralast brand from Autozone as shown in this video for $92 including tax, Mobil 1 5w-20 high mileage full synthetic oil and a Genuine Honda oil filter. I'm hoping the rubber gasket is okay for the front screen filter because this has to come from the dealer and I haven't bought it yet. Any kind of sealant shouldn't be used because it may obstruct the oil passage and or break loose clogging the passage if too much is used and if the rubber gasket is flush with the aluminum cap, it may end up leaking therefore I will replace it. I really like this CRV and it's a big change from my 1997 GMC S-15 Sonoma 3 door extended cab with the Vortex V6 automatic RWD that I bought new and put 245,000 miles on it, then a 2001 Chevy S-10 with everything the same except it had electric windows that I put about 4,000 miles on it from 216,000 miles when I bought it. I'm a retired motorcycle technician and machinist so this is no big deal to do this except I don't enjoy wrenching anymore, but I'll get it done soon when weather permits.
Great video.
...my P2646 issue is very intermittent too. Usually occurring on a long drive and while going uphill. To get past it I have to coast to the side of the road...turn ignition off...then restart. After that it's good for 30 mins or so then returns. Got my new OEM VTEC solenoid assembly yesterday. Didn't realize there is another screen to clear by the PS pump. This K24 engine isn't as bulletproof as claimed.
@@steveburke7675 I didn't initially find out about the second screen until I watched a few good information videos. What I don't understand is why did Honda engineers program the ECM/ECU to not allow the engine to go past 3,000rpm causing the engine to shutter until it drops below this rpm putting on the engine warning light. Why couldn't they have programed the computer to not engage the 3rd intake rocker for each cylinder which gives the valves more lift and duration and allow it to run past 3.000rpm and just put up the engine warning light. My Element is a four speed and when there's a problem i can only go 69mph. Once I hit 70mph the engine shuts down until I slow down to 61mph then it kicks back on.
@@cliffords.8341 Mine is a manual trans also. Having this happen at 70mph on a highway is dangerous.
@@steveburke7675 mine is a 4 speed automatic. Being a manual like yours it's probably worse than mine because if you don't downshift you won't have the power to accelerate to get going again once the engine kicks in.
Thank-you so much. Have the same problem so someone told me that I have to buy the motor ..It cost $1400 rebuild ..But now looking in to your video of m gonna try this first than you so much for sharing
2005 Element owner here with the same issue. I already ordered the part, I found it on eBay for $40 including shipping, genuine Honda part.
Thanks for the how-to, will be attempting this by the end of the week (I hope lol).
I feel better about having already ordered the VTEC solenoid for this exact code and issue.
I'm happy to help. It is a good thing that you ordered the OEM Honda parts. The other aftermarket parts are nothing but trouble. Keep me posted
@@jimthecarguy I wholeheartedly agree. I will spend more for genuine parts for my Honda or my Fords. With enough searching, you can find decent deals on OEM parts, if you can wait for shipping haha
@@jimthecarguy Hey Jim, the solenoid replacement didnt go as planned, one of the bolts was rounded off, and the Honda was scheduled to go in the shop for CV axles (and a couple other things), so I let them change it. Vehicle drives great, and the problem is solved. Have a good one, and thanks again.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I'm facing this same issue on my 05 element right now. Seems wise to just replace it. When "the shudder" happens and you lose power in heavy traffic it is definitely not fun!
I'm happy to help .Thank you for watching I would replace it also.Subscribe
meanpicker What did you get fixed and the total cost? Is it working fine still?
That's exactly what i experienced. So did you replace the VTC stainer screen as well?
I was doing 70mph down i95! Fast and heavy traffic. Yikes
I am having the same issue even after replacing the vtec solenoid with an oem unit still getting the p2646
I've been having this issue for a little while now, initially I thought it was due to the fuel pump. I will try replacing the switch and/or sensor.
I have been having the same problems with the exact same car. Just pulled this code today. This video has been extremely helpful. Gonna try it asap.
Hard work. !!!! Thanks for the info. !!!!
I don’t understand why the engine has all these screen filters. !! How about the oil filter. !!!!!
I’m getting sick of my Element. !! Everything is CKECK ENGINE !!!! Catalytic, oxigen sensors gas cap - Vtec etc etc. !! I fix one and I have two more coming. !!!’
Thank you for your video, was able to fix my 2005 Element and get it running again! I did have to return the generic part and use the Honda's part, more expensive but worth it. My first part worked briefly and the the CEL went back on and car started stuttering, the part was defective. Thanks for your videos, so helpful.
Glad it helped. Yes for this repair you always want to buy the Honda part.Thanks for watching.
The original lasted 14 years...the first replacement from Advance Auto lasted 3 years. The latest part from Advance Auto, it was $90, not the super cheap Chinese parts on Ebay , did not make it a week. They will not refund/credit, only replace it with one of there's. Avoid these guys, stick with HONDA OEM on this one.
Great information for those with k series Honda engine like myself!!
Great job jim, I don't have a DTC for this yet for my 06 CRV!
But just for some preventative maintainance, I'll check the screen filters, and clean them out really good!
Awesome video!!!! Love it! (Like,with thumbs up!) just need to figure out the creeks ands squeaks from the rear end suspension when winter seasons hits and the temperature goes below -30 degrees. Driving me nuts once the cold season comes around!
I changed my oil and it worked fine afterwards.
Thanks Jim, came into this issue today at the shop. Didn't know it could be replaced as a whole assembly, good to know.
Jim, I have Honda Element 2010 and experiencing exactly the same problem the 2004 Honda Element. The engine light is on, VSA light is on as well, and I cannot accelerate over 3k RPM. I have always serviced my Honda Element every 3k and the dealer performs it. So, my oil is fresh and perfect oil level. I received a code scanner and received P2646. I drop off to the Honda dealer and VTEC assembly was replaced, but after two months the engine light and VSA light came back. Since, I have parts warranty, I took back to the Honda dealer, and they held my car for 3 days. I was told the oil pressure switch is faulty and they have replaced it. After 3 weeks, all light came back with exact same issue. I drop off to the dealer this evening and hope they fix the problem once for all. I know they haven't touched or bothered to clean the solenoid filter located front at the engine. Please advise me what to do next; I watched your video and planning to do exactly what you have done and see if that will take care the issue. Thank you!
Moe, you and I the same issue. What was the outcome of your car?
Same here
Hi Jim, I have this P2546 that will not go away, Did the Vtec, Replaced the oil, Cleaned the screens,dropped the pan cleaned the pick up area, Cleared the code and can get it to go away for a few days checked the oil pressure(good) But the check engine light keeps coming back. been to Honda dealer they could not find a problem been to my local shop again No problem found. It runs well except occasional once the light comes back on it will Buck a few time and then run fine Does it both at 55mpg and in town 25 or so Mpg. I am stumped as to what to try next this car is a 2006 and only has 134000 miles on it. Any ideas?
That's rough. You ever figure it out? I'm getting the bucking too
My 04 Element has the same power loss at 3000 rpm or when the load is increased on engine. It keeps throwing a P0365 Cam sensor code even after I replaced it. One mechanic said the code may also be in the variable timing solenoid. It's a component of this part that was replaced- correct? It will cost a $100 to diagnose the cut-out or a little more if I just replace that assembly.
Is that a good bet?
Been dealing with this lately. I replaced this part and the vvt solenoid on the side of the engine and it’s still throwing 2646 code. I’m losing my mind. What could be the issue?
Outstanding video. I have the same issue with my 04 Element, so now I am going in with confidence. Thank you
I have had the P2646 code twice. Both times, It was the day after a very hard day long rain, and I also had not driven it the day it was raining. Both times, I drove it for a couple miles the day after the rain, stopped at a store, started it back up and pulled out only to get the code and limp mode.
Same here. Mine has only started this in the last couple months when it's a hard heavy rain.
Funny, we had flooding rains earlier this week and here I am again looking for solutions. Im going to pull every electrical plug, clean it, and use dielectric lube on everything!
Pretty sure I just fixed it, sprayed electrical cleaner in all the open spots on the wire connection on the left side of the engine, and the connection just back around the rear of engine on the corner. I think water is getting in the rear of the plugs.
Bruce Alan I replaced my VTEC solenoid and it continues to happen when it rains what fuses or connection did u clean ? ThxBrigs
@@brigs4952 did you ever figure out what lines to spray ?
Quick question, if I've done literally everything you've mentioned in this video and still have the same problem what should I do next? I have the exact code and the same problems you said with the shuttering and loss of power.
I’m have the same problem I change the hole peace and still doing the same where to find help with this
@@richard45231 took me 3 tries but I finally got it. What ended up working for me was getting a factory vtec solenoid from the dealership and the factory harness. Not sure which fixed the problem but it worked. I’ve heard through the grape vine the auto part store solenoid just won’t do the trick for some reason and it is necessary to get the factory part. Hopefully this helps
I've been chasing this issue with our "around town Element" for over a year now and the code finally showed up. Will be swapping this unit out and hoping it resolves the issue.
Very helpful! The smaller screen on the front by the tensioner is leaking profusely on mine. Any idea what this part is called? Id rather just replace it!
Otherwise got it all cleaned up from the leak for inspection, and got the replacement vtech solenoid. Fingers crossed!
I have replaced my Spool valve , cleaned the strainer behind the power steering pump and did a oil change with 5W-20 and I still have codes P2646 and P2647. Oil control valve next?
Jackson Cruz i have the same prob now, did u have any luck?
MARVIN ARGUETA yo pienso que es el censor de oxigeno mi amigo no esta trabajando al 100%
We used this video to change the parts on my 03 Element and found it very helpful. Can I recommend maybe putting the part names or numbers in the description ? Not knowing the names of the parts was the hardest part of searching for them.
Also when you have the belts off and have access to the spool gasket, you may as well swap it out for a new one, I found mine had a small tear in it and we had wait for a new part. So I recommend getting both parts ,the "Cam adjust solenoid" and the "spool valve filter gasket" I got both new OEM for about 130$.
+jeremy cobert Genuine Spool Valve Filter Gasket
Part Number: 7014-01185024
Detailed Notes: VTC Filter screen (with integral gasket).
jeremy cobert hey Jeremy I have a 2003 Honda Element with p2646 & p2647 fualt codes 3 months ago I replace the vtc solenoid valve due to vehicle lost power at acceleration and vehicle felt like stalling. after replacing that valve I cleared the fault codes ,roadtest vehicle and vehicle drove like champ. now vehicle has the same issue as before and fault codes are the same. my question is , if the screen is durty it will affect the vtc valve ? I asking that cuz I didn't clean it when I replace it ,as u did on this video. please let me know.
did you also replace the spool gasket ? That one seems to be the cause of the stutter/acceleration issue.
jeremy cobert yes I did 3 months ago. but the information u posted it helpme alot , thanks. I checked voltage from ACM to the vtc connector sensor , voltage was at battery voltage , check resistance on sensor, the sensor was bad, I installed factory part at that time I couldn't believe that it failed to soon. thanks for the ur replay.
So, is it all fix now? Because my 06 Element does it some times. I don't want to bring it in and get the same results. What was the total cost to you and the cost you think it would have cost for a mechanic to charge? Thanks.
After my first oil change after buying this used, it didn't show up for months. I used only the recommended oil for the 06 Element. I did go over the recommended oil change time. We'll see if it shows up again. I think if I do long hwy mileage it show up again. This is the AutoZone code which I got twice within a few months when it shows up. The exact same thing:
Definition: Code P2646 indicates the PCM detedted that the variable cylinder management system was stuck in the "off" position.
Error Codes Read: P2646 Rocker Arm Oil Pressure Switch (VTEC Oil Pressure Switch) Circuit Low Voltage.
Also when my car is cold it has a ringing sound. Do you know what that ringing sound might be? Thanks
Let us talk to the owner to see if that code didn't show up again, since it can be months before symptoms shows up again. ;)
Jim, great video. I erased the code and changed my oil/filter. Does it matter if I just wait to see if it comes back on and not do anything else until then? In other words, is there much risk in waiting to see?
Was the oil changed regularly?Was the oil very dirty?
I HAVE A GROWLING NOISE FROM CHAIN AREA AT LOW RPM. NOISE STOPS ABRUPTLY JUST BEFORE 2000 RPM. I'M THINKING THIS IS DUE TO LOW OIL PRESSURE. LIGHT FLICKERS AT IDLES AND SOMETIMES STAYS SOLID UNTIL RPM IS INCREASED. AFTER WATCHING YOUR VIDEO I REMOVED BOTH SCREENS. REAR ONE WAS FILTHY BUT FRONT ONE NOT TOO BAD BUT A LOT OF METAL SHAVINGS. MY QUESTION TO YOU IS WHAT COULD THE METAL BITS BE FROM? IF THE SCREEN PROTECTS SOMETHING THE BITS MUST BE IN THE OIL FLOW PRIOR TO THE SCREEN BUT I CAN'T DETERMINE WHAT IN PRIOR OTHER THAN OIL PUMP. ANY HELP APPRECIATED. KEN
It has been a year since you posted. Did you find a solution? The metal shavings were also found in the part they removed in my element. Had the the part replaced yesterday only for the problem to persist. They are doing an engine flush and suspect that the new VVT was defective. Hope this works out because everyone else seems stumped.
Hello, I did everything in this video and am still having problems. Same error code. Is there anything that could be causing this?
Jon Harvey having same issue here. My mechanic is going to replace my Solenoid all together. Honda gave up trying plus they took my $.
@@Breadbag I ended up replacing both solenoids with OEM parts. Along with cleaning out the screen behind the belt tensioner. I believe the aftermarket parts I used were faulty causing the problem to continue
Hey guys, Not really mechanical, How much do you think Honda would charge for this?, or just take a breath and give it a shot? I have a 07 Element 140 k...thanks Jake
Thanks just had this problem with my 2003 I've never seen that code before changed the oil it was good for a day then it started again so I ordered the whole valve thanks for the video
Hi Jim,
I am getting this code on my 2003 Element. I get this code and same acceleration symptoms after a very heavy rain. The first time it just went away. Nowt the CEL is on now and I am getting the code. Do you recommend I just turn off the code? Do you recommend I do something about the electrical connections? I am convinced the problem is water in the engine compartment. Thanks in advance.
This is a common problem . Without the correct diagnostic tool it will be difficult to be certain. There is a service bulletin about this intermittent problem. If it were me I would take a gamble and replace the assembly and clean out the screen. Keep me posted.
What could cause the code to throw and csr go into limp mode with the valve and screens all being new? I'm stumped with this accord.
Jim I never got a response back from you. 05 element bucking jerking won’t go pass 3000 Rpms. No solenoid codes. Only P0507 and Abs light. Right driver spindle does not have a sensor on it. Will that make the vehicle buck and jerk like it’s the trans.
You are a saint, thank you for posting this video !
+taylor phan I'm happy to help.keep me posted how you do.
Sorry,you probably answered this 100 times... I have changed oil,and cleaned the 2 screens. the one in the pressure switch assembly was pretty clean,but the one next to the belt tensioner was pretty bad.. I had cleaned it,and reinstalled,but after clearing the P2646 code with my scanner,I still get the code when I went to drive it.. I have a 2003 Honda Accord 2.4 ... What would I do next? just replace the whole assembly ? Whats the best place I can find the part ? Much thanks
Help!!!! Changing new VETC Solenoid Assy & ran 2005 CR-V after 2 weeks came back with same problems.
What else can it be?
Same problem came back a week later
Maybe dirty oil clogged it again
2003 Element. Same issue here. Have changed the entire assembly twice. Both times the problem straightened out for a month then back to limp mode. Struggling to make sense of this problem.
What brand was the part you installed?
Thanks for replying. I went aftermarket both times. The last one was Spectre. I should’ve known that I needed OEM. I’m hoping that’s the whole problem.
Good video. I had same 2646 code. I replaced entire solenoid assembly to be same. Problem solved. How much do you tighten the 3 screws that secure the solenoid to the block? Thx
Jeremy-Stephanie Millar did that fix the issue? I’m about to replace the whole thing this week.
I like the background noise, I feel I'm with you now at your shop.
Jim, thanks for the reply. Yeah it sucks! Do you know what the actual part number of the full unit is, because the car still isn't right now, so I'm guessing it's going to have to have the switch assembly replaced now. It's un-driveable. I can't go above 3,000 rpm or 50mph whichever comes first. Even after clearing the code, it will get up to speed then in about 6 miles it will bogg right back again.
+guitarguts666 Sorry I don't have the part number.I will tell you this it is not as difficult as you might thing.Good luck.
thanks Jim! Autozone gave me code 2647 and this video helped my clear it after I changed the oil and checked the screen. new solenoid did it
I do a live stream on Sunday night on jimthecarguy at 7:00 PM (EST ) I will talk about this .I hope you can stop by
Replaced mine last month and now again this month!!! Is it the same problem or was it a bandaid for something else that was the problem but the new selenoid sorta patched it but not cured it??
08 Honda Element lx with 187600 miles on it. Has p2646 code. Car goes into limp mode and won't go above 3000 rpms but problem stops when the engine is shut off and on while driving (until it comes back on of course) I've replaced the Vtec solenoid and the sensor on it. I have also cleaned out one of the screens for the oil. I'm not sure what else to do because it's still happening and it's been a year now
XBomb did you ever find a fix? I have the same car (08 element) and I am having. The same exact issues.
@jimthecarguy good evening ive done all this and still have the same problem flushed engine , 2 oil changes ,2 oem parts vtec and problem still keeps coming back need help please
Jim I did this unit initial started no issue... degrees engine let sit 24hrs..unit turns over kills battery, BUT never start again? removed new part and reinstalled old part that flagged OBD code 2646, STILL , unit won't start....pls.help
Jim please reply back need your help ASAP. No codes but P0507 and Abs light element bucking jerking down shifting won’t go pass 3000rpms
hey there i know i’m a bit late and i hope you can get back to me, i’m having an issue with my j30a4 that i can’t seem to figure out, solenoid has been changed, oils been changed, wirings been professional checked out, the problem is a p2649 code and the car is not engaging vtec and giving me a 3500 rev limiter, is it possible my rocker arm is clogged or stuck in place?
2005 CRV 2.4L replaced the solenoid assembly and cleaned the screen behind power steering pump, has clean oil. NO Help! Any other suggestions.
So mine is having this problem right now what parts am I supposed to get
What about the screens on the VTC solenoid being dirty?
all videos should look and professional as this. good job sir!
Thank you
I've got a 2005 Honda Odyssey with this 2.4 engine aswell. And is having same code. Are they all the same part and fitment in my Australian Odyssey at all?
Its in the same place as this
Just curious before I order the part.
Thanks mate
You're a life saver! Thank you!!!
DAD09 I'm happy to help thanks for watching
Hi Jim , I made a mistake by turn the wrong way on the screw while I was trying to open it to replace a PCV on my 2016 Honda Accord ,, screw was stripped ,,,I couldn’t remove it out now ,,please help ,Thanks
Hi, great video, and still getting views. I just bought an 05 fwd 5 speed manual and it’s not plated yet so I can’t test drive. But in my driveway I can’t get the car to rev higher then 4K rpm. I was wondering if there was a neutral rev limiter on this to protect the engine or if I’m having clogging issues. Do you know if the element should be able to rev higher then 4K in neutral/ gear w clutch?
My 05 manual is also doing this. Did you find out any more info?
I already did this before hand but did you have to remove the oil first?
Worked perfectly and thank you so much for the elaborated video!
The tutorial video was great Thank you
But what are the part number?
Please tell us the manufacture part number
Thank you ...
I got this code and it was the oil pressure sensor on the soleniod assembly, so I didn't have to take the whole thing out and replace. 2006 4WD Honda Element.
Hey blue danny .. did you fix the problem just replacing the pressure swith senssor?
@@acura1384ify yup, I did it in the AutoZone parking lot too. Been good for a long time now.
Jim is it absolutely necessary to remove the pump and belt after changing the assembly. I feel like I can get away with the assembly change but I’m scared I won’t be able to put the belt back on.
Yes it will be very difficult without the removal.Thanks for watching
My Question is do I have check the last part too?when a replace the PRESSURE SWITCH,?
Hey there, could you tell us what you used to clean the screens??
You can use any kind of spray carbon cleaner or some brake cleaner
Hi Jim, how do you remove the harness on the back of the assembly? The two on the top just squeeze and pull, but the one on the back, is that just zip tied to the hole above the three bolt holes?
thanks for the vid, Jim. this may seem like a dumb question but do I have to drain all the oil out first before removing these parts? Is oil going to come pouring out if I don't when I remove the solenoid and or small screen?
+David Guerra First let me say there is no such thing as a foolish question.It is foolish not to ask a question.As for leaking out oil no it will not have to be drained only a small amount of oil will come out.Let me know how you do.Jim
+jimthecarguy thank you for your time. I will keep you posted.
I have 04 element and it gave us the same code and ours acts like it wants to cut off when driving but in park it's fine.
Nice tutorial...i will be doing this procedure very soon.
Best of luck!
Do you have to drain the oil?
Hi Jim i watched your video very helpful , i appriciate it . I replaced my solenoid everything was perfect for 2 weeks then started getting same issue do you think it can be the oil pressure switch ?
What if I have a 2009 Honda Civic same code same problems but I don't have a VTEC..... Rocker arm stuck bank 1 and high low voltage
The screen is part if the o-ring.
Anytime u unbolt this part you have to change the gasket. So in theory you are replacing the screen when u buy a new gasket for $12 at Napa
Thanks for watching and your input.
I have a 2006 Honda odyssey it gives me the code P2649 Rocker arm oil control solenoid VTEC solenoid valve circuit high voltage. Do I just change the part or worry about high-voltage?
I also have other codes P2770, P0970, P0980, P0966, P0974. There all giving me high input, high circuit or low circuits. Should I just change the parts or is this a different issue?
The car wouldn’t start I thought it was a battery and alternator issue. I replaced both of them. The car ran for a few miles and it shut off on me I couldn’t start it without a jump. Also I need to mention before it shut off on me every time I stopped and try to accelerate it hardly did.
It sound like you have 2 different problems. Check the charging system first.
I have a 2006 crv and p2646 CEL but no limp mode
I did all this 2 weeks ago and worker great, but not its doing it again but worse. If I'm driving the car starts like before but if I'm holding the gas and let to to try to drive it won't let me for like 5 seconds.
Hey Jim, I have this same issue but I already changed the vtec solenoid and after I got a high voltage code and got that switched as well. Then I got the p2646 code for the low voltage but this usually only happens when I have my air conditioner on. Any tips or what should I do?
hi jim, hope you can notice this. i am working in honda odessey 2007, code is p2646, i replaced the vtec solenoid. after 1 day, the code appeared again and running crazy again. i also did a pressure test and the reading was about 19-20psi. i'm not sure if the pressure is still good. what's the best way to fix it? i'm thinking that there may be an oil sludge, so do you recommend taking the oil pan off and clean the oil pick up? thanks jim
I am a mechanic but I am not familiar with the V tec I understand how it works, so I have checked everything and its all good, but I keep getting p2646 code. I changed the solenoid assemble that checked good and still no luck. Can someone explain what the solenoids purpose is because I manually activated it and hear it click but it don't have any effect on the engine. When I energize the spool valve it has a change on the engine running. All screens are clean
my son has a 04 Acura RSX-s . Iam trying to see if there is a leak from this area, could this be a cause for the car to go through oil. I don't see much if any on the floor. Can it cause oil to burn in the engine, I don't see any black smoke. No codes have been shown. thanks
+Kevin Stanard If there is no leaks under the car and you are using the correct weight oil then the only other possibility is the engine is burning oil.If you remove the spark plugs see if there is any oil residue on them.Keep me posted.Jim
+jimthecarguy thanks
I just change the spool valve assembly yesterday and drove the car but still do in the same thing 3000 rpm start cutting off what else it could b the problem?thanks
I just find out that went the truck is cold works fine it goes over 3000 rpm but went gets hot start doing the same problem doesn't go over 3000 rpm and start cutting off again
Did you figure out your issue?
I have a 2005 Honda odyssey with a 3.5 L VTEC engine in it I just bought it about a month ago it has the code P 2646 I change the part that said it was and I still have that code. the code will not go away I was even told that maybe the computer was bad so I bought another used computer and put it and I still got the same code just wondering if you have any ideas what that might be as far as the code goes thanks
If you turn the Honda off and then turn the key on without the engine running try to clean the code. Does it clear?
jimthecarguy It’ll clear it but it comes back on
Would you know if there’s another computer in the car by chance
Does the VTEC signal come through the ECM
Hey Sir my 03 Honda Element won't idle w/o my foot on the gas. The 2 codes are P0420 and P2646.
I'm getting the same codes, what was your issue?
JIM, good fix and info is this issue caused by mechanical problem of the solenoid or because the lack of oil change most of the time. thanks for sharing cheers.
j georges Most of the time it is due to lack of oil changes but in this case it was the failure of the solenoid. Thanks for watching and your feedback.Jim
Hey so I bought a 2004 element with 87k for 5500 i test drove it work good but I didn't try the heat ac was ok so I brought it home from ny to pa but did a pit stop in nj shell station route 206 then it sat for a week. Next time I start it the heat didn't work onlet hose to heater core was hot the other room temperature shortly after the engine start to shake like crazy the send code misfire p0300, p0301 n p0302 and later it did say misfire on all 4 cylinder I install new plugs I swap one coil pack for new but befor that when I disconnected each coil pace at a time the engine did rev up some thinking it not coil pack. Now I'm thinking it might be bad gas as I was very low on gas when I did a complete fill up but it drove like 40 miles good any suggest help plz tnks
So I have a 2006 honda pilot thats getting this code p2646 with a p420 ive replaced the vtec variable assembly and code was gone for about a week and now its back please advise
Is there a second screen i didnt replace
gods bless you man. this video saved my butt. thank you so much. 😁
I've got a 2003 crv, same motor. I'm having the oil pressure switch issue. I've changed the switch but still have the same issue after acouple of days. Especially when it's cold. Now when you installed it, did the check engine disappear, or do you reset it?
+Yee Yang Once the problem is corrected the light will go off by its self in a few days.I turned the light off after i did the repair.
What is the name of this part? Mine is throwing the code for the oil switch. I think it would probably be best to replace the whole thing since I’m at 205,000 miles. Thanks!
Yes for sure replace the whole assembly and get it from the dealer. The aftermarket is no good.
Jimthecarguy thank you!
Hey Jim, will this tutorial help with a 2004 Honda Civic? i got the same error code and definition (Code p2646 indicates that the variablee cylinder management system was stuck in the "off" position). my engine gasket also needs cleaning... would cleaning the gasket and replacing the VTEC Solenoid fix the issue?
As long as there is no engine problems . Yes it should work. Make sure to use the Honda parts not after market.
Hi JIm, can you hekp me find the VTC strainer on a 2011 honda civic? Please advise
Dear Jim,
Do I have to drain the oil?
No you don't have to drain the oil.
@@jimthecarguy thank you
Thanks for the video Jim. Hope all is well. Jimmy V. Ultimate
Hi Jim,
Thanks for stopping by. Everything here is OK.I hope all is well. Next time I'm in town I will stop by.
jimthecarguy, should I get from Honda VTEC Solenoid & what is the part # for 2005 CR-V?
Replaced one with Duralast #TS1147 (Autozone) & after 2 weeks, got same problem.
Is this the same for a 2010?
i had this happen on my 2003 element. We replaced the V-Tech solenoid along with the pressure switch. After about 2 months it went out again. it had a warranty on the part so we just swapped it out again. then after a month it went out again! i took it to honda to have them diagnose. they said its the pressure switch, and the cables look a little corroded. so we switched it out again and put new cables in it. same day the light came on again.... if i clear the code i can sometimes drive fro a day without the light coming on. we're at a loss of what to do next, and every mechanic just says its the pressure switch or the V-tech solenoid, both of which have been changed out 4 times.... anyone? help....
any update on this?
Jackson Cruz not yet. We are taking it back to Honda next week for more testing. Hopefully they'll be able to tell me if it's the computer malfunctioning... or maybe an oil pump issue (which wouldn't make to much sense as my oil pressure stays within the acceptable range)... we've ruled everything else out. I read some forums online that are rather disheartening when it comes to this problem...
3CKid
Yes. I am having exact same issues as you. I replaced my VTEC valve assembly with a new Honda one. I removed and replaced the VTC screen behind the power steering pump and still have same issue. Done 2 oil changes issue still remains. If you have an update can you please let us know?
I'm going to be in this boat shortly. The oil pressure switch went bad and I replaced it a year ago. The new one finally went bad (it's leaking oil onto the contacts) but replacing it did nothing. So I replaced the whole assembly. Still nothing. Going to hit that screen next even though my oil is in good shape. Lastly: I don't think I have seen it here yet but there is a second oil pressure switch on the other side of the motor. Looking into that as well.
William Frisbie get a new car
I have the same problem change the vtec both screens oil solenoid and a week later came back