David I just made your recipe, previously I had not had much success with NEIPA recipes . I replaced one of the day hops with Simcoe as misjudged my stock . I kept oxygen out to the best of my ability . The first glass was undrinkable I vowed never to make this style again . The next day I ensured carbonation was correct and tried it again it seemed better , the next day I tried again and Wow so happy with this beer , turned out better than I ever expected . Well done David thanks for the recipe
Excellant news Graham :) I always pour and disgard the first pint from a new keg, unless I am using floating dip tubes. Check this out:- ruclips.net/video/qheb2Hy8Obg/видео.html
I'm trying this recipe, my first NEIPA. Followed the dry hopping inscructions as per the video. You are right, it's not a cheap recipe. I will update my results on the Facebook group.
Hi David I’ve made a slightly modified (Malted Oats instead of Acid malt, and adjusted the pH with lactic acid) version of this excellent recipe twice now. The difference between the two was when i dry hopped, for me the Verdant suggested method of dry hopping at 15C then continue to crash for 2/3 days is the slightly cleaner/fresher version - it’s subtle, but it’s there. Adding the hops during fermentation, albeit right at the end, adds some biotransformation characteristics which I feel do not suit the NEIPA style. No criticism intended, just my observation, love your channel and your factual presentation style. Cheers, Clive. PS the hop charge added to the serving keg is a game changer (even though it does mean I have to change default my OCD routine of flushing out a keg brimful of Starsan with CO2 to completely eliminate any O2.)
Cheers Clive. As homebrewers the most important thing that we can do is experiment for our own taste. The differences may be small but its the very best way to go for sure.
Hi David I'm keen to try this recipe. I've just ordred a new FV (the Fermzilla) and, for the short term at least, I won't have temperature control so I will be brewing under pressure. My question is - as I cannot control temperature should I brew under pressure from day one or is there a good chance that any off flavours will be picked up by the diacetyl rest? (The FV will be in my Dining Room so reasonably stable temperature, but probably a 4C difference between day and night). Thanks again for all your amazing content
Thanks David, with this amount of dry hops - or any amount - is there a reason you don't just drop them all in and let them float freely? Wouldn't that extract more oils then being confined?
You want them to drop down fast. The oil will extract no problem and this is best when they drop to the bottom as oil will by its nature want to rise. If they are on top then it will take much longer to spread. Ideally use a fermenter that allows you to add dry hops to a bottom container.
11:08 I really want to add, that these containers, while amazing in concept, has a 1 inch "bowl" contruction at the bottom that does not allow for liquid flow. This means that the bottom inch of your dry hop charge will simply not extract as you want it to. You can, however, take some heavy and smooth objects (rocks or ball bearings), boil those, and include in the bottom of the container, to elevate the hop dose from the bottom and have an actual flow access.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew It's not so much they don"t get wet, it's not a perfect hermetic seal. I've just experienced it compact into a semihard yet powdery layer, as if they suck in moisture, causing them to expand and become a puck. Chitting away at the puck usually reveals massive bursts of the intended aroma, which was not captured by the beer.
Hi David. Quick question. If I want to dry hop the keg, is after carbonation best? Will the CO2 from carbonation blast out the oxygen? Of course, then purge.thanks for all the effort and recipes that you provide. It's Christmas 2022. All the best to you and yours. Cheers
I started to brew in 2014 and I've succeeded with every beer below 5% alc. If it is above 5% on the other hand, with some amount of dry hop, I haven't succeeded once! It always have an unpleasant aftertaste. Every time! I've tried every advice out there and the final advice that I tried was your fermentation temperature profile. But again, the beer is nearly undrinkable. I think i have to stay with regular lagers or pale ales. They are really good, but I would love to spice up my life with a juicy NEIPA now and then.
Great video. The final product looks great! A great tip to prevent oxidisation for those without a hop rocket is to use food grade magnets to do the dry hopping. And to add some ascorbic acid to the mash and packaging.
Hi David I have made this 3 times now. Love it! I’m looking for a “Double NEIPA” recipe or similar with the verdant IPA yeast. Have you been working on anything like this? Any suggestions for me? I would like to try this next.
Hey Clayton, great to hear. I believe that my Hop Monster recipe would work well with Verdant. Check this out :- ruclips.net/video/PcsAJfM4q18/видео.htmlsi=hHl1WCQLlNIlWiSW
Fantastic thank you. I’ll give that a try. It will also be my first time fermenting with pressure. Could you advise what fermentation steps I should follow with the verdant IPA yeast please?
Thank you. If I am fermenting under pressure though, would I use those same temps? I would think warmer? Also, what pressure would you use with this yeast? I know from previous videos you recommend 10-12PSI?
Great video as always. What do you thibk about using Framgarden kveik in a NEIPA? I recently read that Ebbegarden will biotransform hop oils, so i think it would be safe to assume that Framgarden also will.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew ah, no worries. I did find it a little strange that you didn't respond, since you are always so good at replying. Thanks for the reply
THAT'S IT!! I'm getting a hop rocket!! I need this beer in my life!! With dry hopping in the keg, are you adding the hops to the screen and then filling and purging the keg with CO2 to remove the oxygen? Great recipe! 👍🍻
@@DavidHeathHomebrew and you leave the keg hops in for the full duration of serving? On average how long does a 5 gallon batch last while being hopped. I have done it a few times in past with great success. 90 days on a NEIPA, 50ish days and even shorter time for life of the serving keg
really like your sanitation steps......many brewers out there dont give a damn......but ive lost a batch due to unreachable spots in the fermenter and its quite disappointing......cheers David.....
Hi David, thanks for the informative video. I tried your recipe and got some fiew quesions that came up during the fermentation: Just after 36 h my SG was at 1.015 (start 1.070) and I was unsure about adding pressure to the Fermezilla before the 4 days as reccomended. I also added the dry hops to the worth on day 3 and added pressure on day 4, when the SG was at 1.011. My question is should I have done something different? And how long should I have the Fermenzilla under pressure before I transfer to the keg? Thanks for any advise!
Hi 😎 This is fine. You will only consider this finished when you are seeing no change in SG for 3 days. The days at pressure are judged by this as well as when to transfer. 🍻🍻🍻
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Hi! 😃 Thanks for the fast reply! Guess I’ll leave it for a couple of days as the SG has flattened out for a couple of days already before transfer. For the next time, should I let the yeast work under no pressure for 4 days eaven if the SG drops quite quickly and add pressure like in this case? 🍻🍻
2 yers has past and now the time has come to brew the beer, said as done. I have a question though, the 60 days hop edition, does it need to come out at 60 days, never tried with hops in the kag. And the last question, how long time will the beer be good for. Thanks David 👍
Keg hopping allows you to keep the hops in for quite a few months usually without issues. I put 60 days to be on the safe side but as long as its stored under pressure and cold it will not need removal.
I absolutely love this video and style guide. There’s a couple of people putting out some pretty bad advice on RUclips . It’s to see you with an approach that makes sense and I believe to be 100% spot on. Thank you 🍻
@@DavidHeathHomebrew just wondering if either of you would be willing to share channels to avoid? For those of us who don;' necessarily know the good from the bad advice?
I’m giving this one a try today. I’m wondering if I should pressure ferment this batch or not, what will be the best choice taste wise, I’m not in a hurry to get it drinkable I’m fine in giving it time.
Hi David, Thankyou very much for all your hard work. Can I ask: You mention that no fining agents are used... does that include nothing like Irish moss before transferring to the fermenter? Would using this ruin the haze? if its before dry hopping? I'm just nervous about getting sediment, rather than a nice haze... Also, do you have any good advice (or what to expect) for those of us who still only bottle (and have no CO2/pressure equipment)...given the sensitivity to oxygen for this style. Thanks agian..!
Thanks Vaun, much appreciated. Yes that is correct. However, it is a choice. I prefer natural results in general personally. Overly clear beer feels fake.
Hi David, terrific video. I'm a little confused about water hardness. Does this style require a softer water than normal to enhance the smooth mouthfeel? Asking as I live in a hardwater area in the UK.
Thank you. Hard water (Like Burton on Trent) is ideal for IPA as it highlights hop characteristics. Very hard though is more ideal for stout. Soft water is better for lagers. Hardness isnt the full picture though.
Loved the video going going to brew our 1st IPA tomorrow but I think this one is above our skill set whi'll set would you suggest 1 for our 1st time to brew an IPA
Hey David! I will brew this again soon but now I have the hop rocket that I want to try. Quick question, after recirculating the worth through the hops for the hop stand do you also leave the hop rocket while cooling and transferring or do you remove it? Thanks!
Hi David - two quick queries, were you not tempted to use Lallemand New England yeast for this? Also very curious about your opinion on Whirlfloc/finings with hazy IPAs, my last (which used your grain bill but a mix of azacca/el dorado/abro hops) ended up as one of my clearest beers so currently wracking my brain for answers!
Hey 🍻🍻🍻 I have tried that yeast but find this cofermentation to simply do a better job flavour wise. Technically Hazy beer does not need clearing but frankly it is all a matter of personal choice. It will just change the look.
Many thanks as ever David - much appreciated, having looked into it a bit further I also think the high flocculation properties of the yeast I used could be part of it. I’m a big fan of verdant but currently trying a variety of yeasts to shake things up, am thinking London fog next. Cheers! 🍻
@CavemanComplex London fog is great stuff too. I shared a new recipe video just yesterday that uses it . Here is a link ruclips.net/video/SZONbj9kBPs/видео.htmlsi=OCIkxGUCbALdzYr5
David, I'm looking at trying this recipe, I love a NEIPA. Before I jump in I have two questions. 1. I struggle with getting the correct ABV and have been advised to boil mostly at 90 minutes, curious about the 30 minutes and what this does? 2. The 60 day hop in the keg, would it affect the beer too much if the keg was to last 90 days? Cheers Nick.
Hey Nick. Focus on maximising on your mash, assuming you lack efficiency. Grain crush is key, add in 2 3 minute stirs during the mash. Boil time is not very relevant in this regard. The 30 min boil keeps more flavour in and saves you time. The 60 day hops are just hops in the key for slow release at beer serving temps. As long as serving temp is kept then these hops will not have any adverse effects over further time. I hope this helps 🍻🍻
Thanks David. One last question if I may regarding fermentation. I ferment under pressure, so I'm just wondering after engaging the spunge valve on day 4, how much longer will the fermentation take, understanding that I will be dry hopping for 3 days once the FG gets to within 5 points. I know it's not an exact science but an estimate will allow me to plan when to brew. Cheers
Hi just brewed this but the final gravity is about 4 points low, my beers always seem to go that way also i only had us-05 on hand which as you attentuate down hard. Would you suggest back sweetening with lme or cornsugar to add a couple of points back? Or would this impare the flavour? The only info on gravity adjustment i can find is for original gravity so far. Would the lme or cornsugar or nothing be better? It tastes dry and overly bitter i assume probably because of this
Hi Morten, I would suggest going with the yeast in the recipe for the best result. 1 pkg - Lallemand (LalBrew) Verdant IPA & 1 pkg - Lallemand (LalBrew) American West Coast. If you really must go with kveik then Voss or Lutra will work but for sure add in the Verdant yeast too.
So do you just skip the El Dorado hops if you aren't going to dry hop in the keg, or do you add them to the 3 day dry hop schedule? Have you tried it both ways?
Ive tested all sorts and feel that your fermentation temp is going to work, the results are good when between 18-21 fir most peoples taste. Cold crash after is normal
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I have a special designed fermentation vessel that can oxygen free dry hopping, pressure fermentation, controlled temperature, and have cip system in it .
Hello David, i have some questions about the Dry Hopping. I have the Fermzilla in use to this recipe, but i don’t have those balls of tea that you have, so i’ll have to adjust this with the musseline bags that i have. So, i think i have 2 ways of doing the Dry Hopping: 1- put the musseline bag in the collection jar of the fermzilla an let it stay for 3 days. 2 - put the musseline bag the top of the Fermzilla, but in this way i don’t have any trick to take it out after 3 days, so i think i have to let ir stay unitl the end of the fermentation. What is the way that you think is the best? Another final question concerning to the carbonation: how many days do you think that the cabonation will be achieved at 25ªC and 12PSI?
I would suggest timing the dry hop so that it is present for a maximum of 5 days in total. Add the hops when you still have fermentation but are close to final gravity. 5 points is good for regular yeast.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thanks! I’m finishing the fermentation (i think i won’t pass the mark of 1.015, but that’s ok for me). Bu i have a question: how many days do you consider to stay at 12 PSI and 25.C to achieve the 2.4 vol. of CO2?
Great. Using pressure at fermentation temps is not for giving carbonation more than just a little head start. You will need to reduce temperature to add carbonation fully.
Hi David, just purchased Kegland's hop missile after watching your video. I get a question that how long should I keep it during the hop stand procedure? Or is it possible to cut the hop stand step and just let wort run through it while chilling, untill cool enough to get into fermenter? Many thanks!
Hi David, is it ok to dry hop at 25c under pressure yea? And how long would you dry hop for at the temp? I did the 4 days at 0psi now im 2 days into 12psi. Thanks
I have used the hopblocker in a simular manner with decent results. I have found dipped hopping a NEIPA brings out more flavour I wonder if I should revisit this with a dipped hoped NEIPA for more aroma. Thanks for the video, cheers
Hello David, onec again, great video and nice update to this recipe. A question: can i add the Dry Hopping to the keg before i fill it? I will have the beer in fermzilla and i was thinking in lowering the temperature after i transfer to the keg. So, it's ok to add the Dry Hopping before filling up the keg? And what about lowering the temperature? Should i do it?
Thanks for the video. I now realize the value of extra stirring during dough in. After a year of struggling, I'm using a coarser grind and stir like mad and have the best conversions to date. Now looking for a paddle like yours. Any tips?
Cheers Mark. Yes, graincrush and dough in method are critical. This paddle was made in Norway some years ago by a local craft centre. They are not sole not but you should be able to find something similar.
Great video with lots of valuable information. I have always wondered about the level of hygiene around dry hopping, yet the hops themselves might carry a lot of unknowns. I think it’s better to be safe than sorry, but any views over the microbiology of hops?
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Hi David. This is confusing to me. My supplier carries Oat Malt which is actually a kernel type grain, but your video seems to show you adding flakes. Can you clarify?
Hi David. Can you help me with the fermentation profile for this beer? I've just spent a king's ransom for the ingredients and I don't want to screw it up. I will be fermenting in the GF Conical with the Glycol Chiller and/or heater dependent on ambient temperature. Your Brewfather recipe calls for 7 days at 20 and 7 days at 23, with a three day ramp somewhere in there. I intend to dry hop at 3 days as recommended and cold crash to 4-6 degrees at the end to hopefully drop the hops, and then use the GF PT kit to keg. Could you be more specific as to the expected fermentation times, when to ramp and how quickly? Thank you for your help if you can.
Sure Chris, no problem. These timings can only be estimates. I suggest starting at 20C until you are 5 gravity points away from FG. At this point add your dry hops and start adding temperature at 1C per day. Usually by the time you hit 23 it will be done but allow a few days to be sure. Ideally you want the dry hops in contact for 3 days but up to 5 days is fine.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks so much, David. One more thing, do you think it will work ok to add the dry hops loose to the GF conical and then cold crash at the end of fermentation? Note that I will be using the racking cane and transferring through the top. Also I believe the Glycol chiller will only get me down to 4-6 degrees celsius. Would that temperature be low enough to drop the hops? I will be using pellet hops. Thank you again for being our guru.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I’m trying to keep this as closed as possible and due to the very small diameter of the opening at the top of the fermenter, I didn’t think a container was viable. I certainly wouldn’t bother with the cold crash if I was using a container or sack. Cheers anyway.
Hi David, thanks again for another great video. I made this months ago, but was full of diacetyl (strong butterscotch flavor) after I kegged/bottled it. I must be doing something wrong because every time I dry hop, I end up with diacetyl :(. Could you propose a solution? I use a fermzilla at room temp and generally prefer bottling over kegging.
I would suggest adding the dry hop when you are 5-10 points away from gravity being careful to not splash. Then start adding further temperature to the maximum of the yeasts range at 1 deg c per day. Though if you are using pressure you can often go beyond this of course. Adding heat is the missing link here I suspect.
I've brewed this receipe, a bit concerned how to think regarding keg hoping. All I hear about ths type is how very sensitive it's for oxygen. How does that fit with adding hops to keg? Also experienced Verdant yeast turbo speed. Ready for dry hoping after 2 days. During fermentation sampled it. It was fantastic! Looking forward to finished beer 🙂
Love your vids mate, every recipe i have used has turned out awesome! but i need to know, how do you get through enough beer in such a short time to try and refine a recipe? you seem to put a vid out every week of so and by my calculations that's a shitload of god elixir to get through
Hi David, 60 days is a long time for a hop addition, is there any concern of grassy off-flavours or will be be masked by the mass hops from the previous additions?
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks. For clarity, can you explain why it isn't an issue with this recipe in particular? All your other videos say 5-7 days maximum for dry hop infusion.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I remember in your hop tea video you mentioned hop tea would be added to the keg or bucket. Are you finding that’s not the case anymore?
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Did not have a hop socket and I had a few hours yestersday to brew. I tried to compensate with rice hulls, but it was apparently not enough. The G30 pump was really strugling with this setup and the stream of wort rescurilating was very small, allthough constant. I ran it anyway through the 15 minutes. Now I am not sure i will get enough of the bitterness in the NEIPA and since the most of the hops is still unused I am thinking whether to proceed with the dry hopping or start over another day as this is an expensive beer.
Hi Espen, As long as the hops got added and submerged then that is just fine, the oils will be released. No need to run the pump unless you are using a hop missile or rocket. 🍻🍻🍻
Hi David, Great video. I've just brewed your Kolsch and Grapefruit IPA, absolutely love the iPA might add a little more GF next time. The Kolsch is frill fermenting. I'm now looking at the NEIPA Next Gen and I have come across a 500g pack of Eclipse hop. My question to you is would this be ok to substitute for the Centennial? its Profile: Big-hitting flavour hop bursting with sweet mandarin, citrus peel and fresh pine needles. Brew Tips: Since it sits firmly in the fruit quadrant of our Hop Flavour Spectrum, it is well suited to fruit-forward beer styles. Thanks Cheers
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks for your reply David. I have always used your exact ingredients listed in the past, just need to use what I have. I am very keen to try the Eclipse in a NEPA. I will certainly brew this again using your hop additions. I enjoy and appreciate the efforts you place in your recipes and videos. Thanks Again
Hi David, thanks for another great video! Just one short question, the beer tasted great right after I bottled it, but after 3 or 4 weeks the beer became brown in colour and was no more drinkable, at all. I guess oxidation, right? I now have bought a beer gun and will put co2 in the bottles before filling them. this should solve it, what do you think?
I see you use the beer out line of your ferm tank to the in line of your serving tank. Is there no concern of the beer foaming as it drops in? Also, if the pressure bleeds out of your serving tank out , will beer not pour out since it’s connected to the tube at the bottom for the tank? Thank you for the content !
Hey David great video. I just purchased a Fermzilla All Rounder. What would you suggest is the best way to dry hop in this vessel. I am specifically concerned about removing hops after 5 days or so to prevent grassiness. Do you address this in any of your other videos that I could watch? Looking forward to trying this recipe!
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I have heard of some people using magnets to hold the bag or tea strainer above the wort and then lowering them when needed and raising them after their work is done. Have you tried this method, and if so have you included this in any of your videos?
Excellent tip about lowering pH! I discovered the same in one of my batches and polyphenols problems gone. Are you acidify your sparge water? What are your target sparge water pH?
Very sorry for the late comment for some reason RUclips hid this from me. Yes, it certainly works well. Personally I have trialled small batches with various PH levels until I found what was best for me. I suggest you do the same, we all taste things differently :)
Hi David I held off on brewing this until I had proper temperature control. Question on the IBUs - there doesn't seem to be a lot of consensus about the IBU utilisation during Hop Stand. I've read anywhere from 2%-10%. Brewer's Friend is telling me 3.6%. What did you assume?
Hi David. I just noticed that in the text description of this recipe you list oat flakes, and in the video you use oat flakes, but in the BF recipe you list Castle Maltings Chateau Oat Malt.
Brewed this one 15 days ago and just poured the first pint after dry hopping in the keg. Sooooo good!! David, I just have one question. I read a lot of people not recommending leaving the beer with the hops for more than a week to avoid grassy notes. Is it something you've experienced?
Great to hear 🍻🍻🍻 Yes, 3 days contact time is plenty, 5 is as far as I go. So ignore those recipes that suggest adding dry hops early in fermentation. Bad idea.
I need to get a kegging setup, I really want to try one of these. Bottling just seems to be asking for an oxidized beer, so I have been avoiding brewing this style.
If you have a pressure fermenter you can do pressurised closed transfers into PET bottles using a carb cap, a certain Swedish brew tubing doctor has a couple of videos on this subject.
Hi Lars, IPA is split into various sub styles these days. You can search “David Heath IPA” on RUclips to see everything covered so far. If the type you are looking for is missing let me know :)
Thanks for the excellent video as always David. Could I just check - the Brewfather recipe says a 2litre sparge which seems low, is that correct? I'm hoping it is correct as my mash has been super thick for a recent NEIPA due to me thinking I need a bigger sparge, and I'd like a thinner mash with more water if the smaller sparge is OK, it's also a quicker process. is there any optimum ratio for the sparge in your experience?
I brewed this a few days ago and it's 48h into fermentation using 20 degrees C, I'm going the pressure route. It's now at 1.026, 13 points from calculated FG and at this rate I fear it will be fully attenuated (or only having a few points to go) before going the full 4 days. Is it better to wait the four days and then dry hop, and add pressure even if it means passing 1.018, or if it gets to 1.018 before 4 days should I dry hop and pressure then?
Really its best to not use any pressure at all for the first 3-4 days, otherwise you supress the yeasts flavour and aroma. I suggest dry hopping when you are 5-10 gravity points away from the predicted FG.
I’d like to make this recipe but don’t have temp control. Any recommendations? Should I ferment at room temp (70 degrees) for a few days and then pressure ferment for the rest?
Hi David, im soon brewing a copy of this one. I couldnt get El Dorado and cant keg, so made some changes. Was hoping on a comment from you to the changes. The links in the reply.
I see the beggings of two of your comments but they are deleted. Must be RUclips. Are you a member of my channels Facebook group? Make a post there If you wish :)
Obvious question here ... but by using the hoprocket during hopstand, is the end result remarkeble significant? Or does it make the hopflavor a little bit more significant? Now a days i only brew your recipice based upon your videos and i love it!! Thank u so much.
Hi Christian, certainly I notice a marked improvement but taste buds vary. Ive not heard of any one buying the hop rocket or missile that was t happy with the difference.
Hi david. I just brewed this about 10 days ago, fermented with lallemand Voss Kveik (quickly) and am already enjoying it! It came out fantastic (!) but I do think it came out more bitter than 29 IBUs. I don‘t have a hop rocket and just added the whirlpool hops to the kettle. So, they end up staying in there until I‘ve completely transferred (thru my cf-chiller) to the FV, which probably takes half an hour, and now I‘m wondering if this leads to (much) more bitterness than intended. Would you recommend removing the whirlpool hops after a certain length of time?
IBU is just part of the equation of bitterness. Its the ratio of IBU and alcohol that matters. There is also perceived bitterness that fades in new brews. You can only gain a certain amount of bitterness from any hops. Temperature is more important than time. The lower the temps the less bitterness.
David. It look delicious, I will definitely try it out ❤️ I noticed tha you used the inlet on the Keg, probably just a photo ups in your always very clean and perfect video. Thanks for your time and effort and not least, Sharing this recipe👍👍
Great video as always! I'm now using Kveik for all my NEIPA's and IPA's but I have had problems with hop aroma in my finished beers. Therefore I'm currently experimenting with using more whirlpool hops, lower amounts of dry hops in the Fermentor and a greater amount of lupomax hops in my keg. The aroma is certainly a lot better but I still need to balance the ratios. I'm also considering a Hop Missile but they are not available in Ireland and the Hop Rocket is for whole hops only....
Hi Fin, Its great to experiment. Actually the Hop Rocket can be used with pellets. I show how to do this with the Hop Missile (its a copy of the rocket) in this video:- ruclips.net/video/Xu1VLhLKWX4/видео.html
Sure, there are many out there, here is the first:- rockstarbrewer.com/how-dry-hop-creep-causes-diacetyl-in-beer-and-how-brewers-can-minimise-the-risk/
I think perhaps there is some confusion here. I believe the section of the video that you are referring to was the dry hop section? Here I stated the following:- “I suggest adding your dry hops whilst you still have fermentation and are 5-10 gravity points away from the predicted final gravity. This is also the point where I am ramping up temperature to protect against the potential of dms and hop creep. I have never suffered either of these problems in the decades that I have been brewing nor have I suffered with contamination issues either, so I am somewhat confident that this all works.” I am not saying there is a link with hop creep and DMS. They are 2 separate issues.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks for the answers. I actually found what i was looking for regarding this topic. "Fermentation Temperature A 1980 Journal of the Institute of Brewing looked at both original gravities of wort and the temperature of fermentation and the effects on DMS in beer. The authors found that worts of high gravities create substantially more DMS than worts of low gravities. Specifically, fermentations of a 1.060 wort had over three times more DMS than a 1.033 wort (adjusted with either glucose or fructose to achieve the higher gravity). With respect to fermentation temperature, it was found that as the temperature increased the level of DMS decreased. The maximum DMS level achieved with a ferment at 46°F was five times greater than a ferment conducted at 77°F.19 This is because DMS production by yeast is greater at lower temperatures."
Hi David. I have been silent for a while integrating all the information and knowlege aquired the weeks before. We have continued brewing and drinking, and understanding better the links between the different steps involved in the whole process... We intend to brew this NEIPA as our batch no 13. I am wondering what water profile would you suggest for that beer? Thanks. And thank you for all your great videos, they are so packed of information.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew David, I am really, really sorry about that. No later than last saturday I had this reflexion to myself that I should watch the video of a recipe once more before I brew it cause there is a lot of complementary information in there (much more than the recipe). I should also watch it again before I ask questions. My recollection averages 8 seconds so I can't even remember my own advises :-) . But when it hurts I can recall for much longer. And your reply did hurt . Thank you for this reply. I won't do it again. Cheers David.! And thank you so much.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks, David, You are very kind. I Brewed this beer 2 days ago. Yesterday, after about 36 hours in the fermenter when I was away from home, the cooling stopped working on my fermenter and the temperature reached 23.5 before I could bring cooling back to work. I lowered it to 22. Now I wonder what to do tempereture wise. It's day two of the first 7 days stage that should be at 20 and already at 1.022 SG . What do you suggest? Thank you David
Hi David, Brewing my first style this weekend so was keen to hear your guidance on the style. Thanks for the video. Couple of quick questions: given the hazy aspect, does this mean Protafloc and the likes are not needed? Secondly, sorry if I missed it in the video, but looking at the amount of hops in the recipe, is still for a 19L-5G output?
How do you calculate CO2 in the finished beer with pressurized fermentation? Even when you add pressure at the end like this vid. Are you doing any force carb? I'm about to add pressure fermentation to my flex+
With the temperature of fermentation its not going to make a huge difference at normal pressure levels so there is no real need to calculate it. However if you note that you are higher in carbonation than desired its also an easy thing to fix in a keg or unitank.
I saw a neat trick recently where a brewtuber (I think it was theappartmentbrewer, but not sure) used magnets to secure the dryhopping bag to the lid. He needed a stack of magnets to keep the bag up, and let it drop by removing the stack of magnets on the outside. I suppose this is more straightforward with a plastic lid, but i guess you could experiment using a smaller weaker magnet on the inside and a stronger one on the outside where the small magnet will not be sufficient to keep the hop bag to your metal lid/'roof'. This could save you a risky step with the open fermenter and I'll be sure to try it the next time I need a dryhop addition.
I’ve just brewed this NEIPA in my kegmenter. I use two strong magnets and have the hop bag inside the fermenter. 7 days in I remove the outer magnet and the hop bag drops into the beer. I’ve had a couple of wort explosions previously when triple dry hopping and opening up so I’ve just gone this way recently. Day 10 now and sitting at 1.01 and smells great. Will keg tomorrow.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I’ve finally cracked a great hazy IPA with your recipe and method. The result is awesome! I used Nelson Sauvin for the 60day keg hops as I couldn’t get the El Dorado. With my hop bag using magnets in my kegmenter some of the bag and hops were touching the beer before fermentation so I probably got some early bio-transformation. I will get more magnets and use two smaller bags next time to avoid this. The result though is fantastic. Colour is great as well. Thanks David!
There isnt really as the lack of verdant will change this. However, I am sure that this would still taste good with voss. Just not the same. You note the attenuation I aimed for with the BRY97 too.
Sorry if this question has already been answered, but how long would you leave hops in the keg for? I would have thought if you didn’t drink the beer within a week, it would taste pretty “green”.
No problem. Due to the temperature of a keg when added into a fridge which is set at drinking temperatures there is no concern here. This can be left for multiple months without any problems.
I've brewed a few NEIPA beers over the last year and thought is give this a go. Followed the recipe exactly except scaling up for a brewzilla 65. The beer is crystal clear! It also fermented out at record time using two yeast strains. Would the lack of biotranformation have causes this to occur because we missed hopping at high krausen? The fast ferment (had significantly slowed down by day 3)? Or something else? I always believed that oats and wheat made the beer permanently hazy but the more I read the less I think this is the case.
Truth be told this can certainly happen with any NEIPA. There are chemicals that the industry use to produce haze just in case. On a homebrew level I would not worry, its really about taste :)
Yep the fact it's ss makes this indestructible and gives a lot of options. I am thinking about buying a used keg and adapting it as kegmentor to fit the 4 inch kegland lid. Additionally i want to make 2inch hole to fit a butterfly valve with pipe and another kegland lid, this time the tiny 2inch version for oxygen free hop addition. This would be insane value for the money spend.
Hi David. I‘ve been wondering what exactly is it about this recipe that you consider to be ‚Next Generation‘? What are the key differences distinguishing it from ‚First Generation‘ NEIPAs from say, 5 (to 18) years ago (first NEIPA in 2011( Heady Topper in 2004(?!)), added as official style in 2015), for example?
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Oddly, no, it isn’t. I re-watched it. Of course I can compare your 2019 recipe with this one and see the differences in the recipes, but you don‘t mention your reasons for the changes in this „2. Generation“ recipe at all, nor anything about in what way the style has evolved which prompted these changes (e.g. neither munich I nor crystal in this recipe…I know that especially crystal has dropped out of favor in this style because of oxidation issues(/rumors?)…). That kind of background information in addition to your tips for brewing might also have been interesting for beer „nerds“ who appreciate the background knowledge. 🤓 Cheers! 🍻
The reason for the changes is due to the evolution of the style. This is not my doing, it is the changes made by breweries to the style over time that have spread.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I‘m sorry, David, you got the wrong impression…I understand that you‘re saying the style has evolved (though you don’t say how) and hence you made changes, and I certainly don’t want you to justify /making/ changes to achieve new goals! What I was wondering is what, as you see it, are the ways in which the style has changed, what are the newer expectations on the style (as opposed to 5-10 years ago), and how do your changes address these new expectations? I‘m trying to understand the mechanics of recipe development. So, e.g., what new goals were you trying to achieve with the recipe that lead you, e.g., to take out munich I and crystal? Simply less „maltiness“ and/or residual sweetness, or something more complex (that I might be unaware of..)? Did you remove amarillo and simcoe just for your personal taste, or for some other reason? I‘m guessing what I was asking is what were the concrete goals that motivated the individual recipe changes? But I understand that this is probably a much too in depth question to answer in youtube comments. Cheers! 🍻
The style has quite drastically changed in terms of flavour. There is more contribution from malt and hops and alcohol. You can see this in the base malt choice for example. Originally pilsner malt now a split between pils and pale for more flavour. There is less base malt than before leading to more contributions of oats and wheat. Hops wise this is also seeing an increase with choices leading to a wider fruit profile. NEIPA became an enhancement of itself essentially. In terms of my choices for the recipe I put forward I simply wanted to reflect this and at the same time come with something different for people to enjoy. I have quite a library of recipes that I have written over time for the style and my choice of which to share is always based on feedback for the people around me.
David I just made your recipe, previously I had not had much success with NEIPA recipes .
I replaced one of the day hops with Simcoe as misjudged my stock .
I kept oxygen out to the best of my ability .
The first glass was undrinkable I vowed never to make this style again .
The next day I ensured carbonation was correct and tried it again it seemed better , the next day I tried again and Wow so happy with this beer , turned out better than I ever expected .
Well done David thanks for the recipe
Excellant news Graham :) I always pour and disgard the first pint from a new keg, unless I am using floating dip tubes.
Check this out:- ruclips.net/video/qheb2Hy8Obg/видео.html
Thanks!
Cheers Shane 🍻🍻🍻
I'm trying this recipe, my first NEIPA. Followed the dry hopping inscructions as per the video. You are right, it's not a cheap recipe. I will update my results on the Facebook group.
Great to hear. I look forward to hearing your thoughts 🍻🍻🍻
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I have just uploaded a photo of the beer in the hydrometer tube to the FB group. Hopefully chilled ready for Friday.
@Tobytiesdell ok great 🍻🍻🍻
Hi David I’ve made a slightly modified (Malted Oats instead of Acid malt, and adjusted the pH with lactic acid) version of this excellent recipe twice now. The difference between the two was when i dry hopped, for me the Verdant suggested method of dry hopping at 15C then continue to crash for 2/3 days is the slightly cleaner/fresher version - it’s subtle, but it’s there. Adding the hops during fermentation, albeit right at the end, adds some biotransformation characteristics which I feel do not suit the NEIPA style. No criticism intended, just my observation, love your channel and your factual presentation style.
Cheers, Clive.
PS the hop charge added to the serving keg is a game changer (even though it does mean I have to change default my OCD routine of flushing out a keg brimful of Starsan with CO2 to completely eliminate any O2.)
Cheers Clive. As homebrewers the most important thing that we can do is experiment for our own taste. The differences may be small but its the very best way to go for sure.
Sounds amazing wish I could try it as I don't like a lot of bitterness. I will try this recipe once I get better at brewing.
Great, enjoy Mike 🍻🍻🍻
Just taken my first pour from the keg of this recipe. Outstanding. Smooth...and really fruity. Just amazing. Thankyou.
Great to hear Nick. Yes, this one works very well 🍻🍻🍻
Hi David
I'm keen to try this recipe. I've just ordred a new FV (the Fermzilla) and, for the short term at least, I won't have temperature control so I will be brewing under pressure. My question is - as I cannot control temperature should I brew under pressure from day one or is there a good chance that any off flavours will be picked up by the diacetyl rest? (The FV will be in my Dining Room so reasonably stable temperature, but probably a 4C difference between day and night).
Thanks again for all your amazing content
Cheers James. Pressure from the start sounds best, especially if the temperature is high and varied.
Thanks David, with this amount of dry hops - or any amount - is there a reason you don't just drop them all in and let them float freely? Wouldn't that extract more oils then being confined?
You want them to drop down fast. The oil will extract no problem and this is best when they drop to the bottom as oil will by its nature want to rise. If they are on top then it will take much longer to spread. Ideally use a fermenter that allows you to add dry hops to a bottom container.
11:08 I really want to add, that these containers, while amazing in concept, has a 1 inch "bowl" contruction at the bottom that does not allow for liquid flow. This means that the bottom inch of your dry hop charge will simply not extract as you want it to.
You can, however, take some heavy and smooth objects (rocks or ball bearings), boil those, and include in the bottom of the container, to elevate the hop dose from the bottom and have an actual flow access.
Interesting that you say this but ive not noticed that the hops down low do not get wet. Mine certainly do.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew It's not so much they don"t get wet, it's not a perfect hermetic seal. I've just experienced it compact into a semihard yet powdery layer, as if they suck in moisture, causing them to expand and become a puck. Chitting away at the puck usually reveals massive bursts of the intended aroma, which was not captured by the beer.
Hmm interesting. Ive not had this. Perhaps its down to hop amount? Are you filling it?
hello, a world of compliments... I wanted to ask you, do you think I can add raspberries in the secondary fermentation in this recipe?
Thank you. You could, ive not designed it with those flavours in mind though, so im unsure how well it would work.
Hi David. Quick question. If I want to dry hop the keg, is after carbonation best? Will the CO2 from carbonation blast out the oxygen? Of course, then purge.thanks for all the effort and recipes that you provide. It's Christmas 2022. All the best to you and yours. Cheers
Hi Vince, I add mine after transfer and before carbonation. Naturally it is purged :)
It makes no sense to open and add later 🍻🍻
I started to brew in 2014 and I've succeeded with every beer below 5% alc. If it is above 5% on the other hand, with some amount of dry hop, I haven't succeeded once! It always have an unpleasant aftertaste. Every time! I've tried every advice out there and the final advice that I tried was your fermentation temperature profile. But again, the beer is nearly undrinkable. I think i have to stay with regular lagers or pale ales. They are really good, but I would love to spice up my life with a juicy NEIPA now and then.
That is odd Stein. Have you tried my recipes?
Great video. The final product looks great!
A great tip to prevent oxidisation for those without a hop rocket is to use food grade magnets to do the dry hopping. And to add some ascorbic acid to the mash and packaging.
Thank you. The hop rocket is not going to help against oxidisation but this is a good tip :)
Hi David
I have made this 3 times now. Love it! I’m looking for a “Double NEIPA” recipe or similar with the verdant IPA yeast.
Have you been working on anything like this? Any suggestions for me? I would like to try this next.
Hey Clayton, great to hear. I believe that my Hop Monster recipe would work well with Verdant. Check this out :- ruclips.net/video/PcsAJfM4q18/видео.htmlsi=hHl1WCQLlNIlWiSW
Fantastic thank you. I’ll give that a try.
It will also be my first time fermenting with pressure. Could you advise what fermentation steps I should follow with the verdant IPA yeast please?
@claytoncoxen5145 Sure. I like to start it at 20C then in the final days move to 23C to finish as its slower at the end. Enjoy 🍻🍻🍻
Thank you. If I am fermenting under pressure though, would I use those same temps? I would think warmer?
Also, what pressure would you use with this yeast? I know from previous videos you recommend 10-12PSI?
@claytoncoxen5145 You can go warmer, which will speed fermentation up, not a requirement though.
Great video as always. What do you thibk about using Framgarden kveik in a NEIPA? I recently read that Ebbegarden will biotransform hop oils, so i think it would be safe to assume that Framgarden also will.
Very sorry for the late comment for some reason RUclips hid this from me. Yes this kveik can certainly work with NEIPA.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew ah, no worries. I did find it a little strange that you didn't respond, since you are always so good at replying. Thanks for the reply
THAT'S IT!! I'm getting a hop rocket!! I need this beer in my life!! With dry hopping in the keg, are you adding the hops to the screen and then filling and purging the keg with CO2 to remove the oxygen? Great recipe! 👍🍻
Cheers Brian. The rocket or missile, they are the same. Yes, exactly. Its essential to purge.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew cool thanks!
🍻🍻🍻
@@DavidHeathHomebrew and you leave the keg hops in for the full duration of serving? On average how long does a 5 gallon batch last while being hopped. I have done it a few times in past with great success. 90 days on a NEIPA, 50ish days and even shorter time for life of the serving keg
Yes. Though for me and my thirsty friends it will probably last a month at best. It would be fine for several months.
I'd love to see a recipe of a sour red, something like a flanders red for homebrewers, it would be amazing
Its certainly something that could happen. Have you seen my foeder and solera sour series?
really like your sanitation steps......many brewers out there dont give a damn......but ive lost a batch due to unreachable spots in the fermenter and its quite disappointing......cheers David.....
Yes, I find this surprising too. The worst thing is to lose a batch through carelessness as I see it.
Great video! If you don’t use a pressure transfer, are you losing aroma? I usually do a closed loop transfer.
Potentially yes but how much will vary from beer to beer. It may not be such a big difference.
Liking the 50/50 split of maris otter and pilsner, can just imagine the taste in my head! Excited to try this David
Cheers Neil. It provides a balance of both. You will taste it :)
Looking good mate- maybe purge the FV to keg line of o2 before transferring.
Cheers, enjoy 🍻🍻🍻
Hi David, thanks for the informative video. I tried your recipe and got some fiew quesions that came up during the fermentation: Just after 36 h my SG was at 1.015 (start 1.070) and I was unsure about adding pressure to the Fermezilla before the 4 days as reccomended. I also added the dry hops to the worth on day 3 and added pressure on day 4, when the SG was at 1.011. My question is should I have done something different? And how long should I have the Fermenzilla under pressure before I transfer to the keg? Thanks for any advise!
Hi 😎
This is fine. You will only consider this finished when you are seeing no change in SG for 3 days. The days at pressure are judged by this as well as when to transfer.
🍻🍻🍻
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Hi! 😃 Thanks for the fast reply! Guess I’ll leave it for a couple of days as the SG has flattened out for a couple of days already before transfer. For the next time, should I let the yeast work under no pressure for 4 days eaven if the SG drops quite quickly and add pressure like in this case? 🍻🍻
@NuttaPearl if your chosen yeast is adding aroma and flavour it is best to have no pressure for the first 4 days to be on the safe side.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Ok, thanks I'll keep that in mind. Looking forward to taste this!
2 yers has past and now the time has come to brew the beer, said as done.
I have a question though, the 60 days hop edition, does it need to come out at 60 days, never tried with hops in the kag.
And the last question, how long time will the beer be good for.
Thanks David 👍
Keg hopping allows you to keep the hops in for quite a few months usually without issues. I put 60 days to be on the safe side but as long as its stored under pressure and cold it will not need removal.
I absolutely love this video and style guide. There’s a couple of people putting out some pretty bad advice on RUclips . It’s to see you with an approach that makes sense and I believe to be 100% spot on. Thank you 🍻
Thanks Bradley. Yes, I see them. Probably more than two but if we are just talking larger channels then I know instantly who you mean.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew just wondering if either of you would be willing to share channels to avoid? For those of us who don;' necessarily know the good from the bad advice?
I’m giving this one a try today. I’m wondering if I should pressure ferment this batch or not, what will be the best choice taste wise, I’m not in a hurry to get it drinkable I’m fine in giving it time.
Pressure certainly is useful for a cleaner result. No pressure for the first four days though otherwise you will lose Verdants flavour and aroma.
Hi David, Thankyou very much for all your hard work. Can I ask: You mention that no fining agents are used... does that include nothing like Irish moss before transferring to the fermenter? Would using this ruin the haze? if its before dry hopping? I'm just nervous about getting sediment, rather than a nice haze...
Also, do you have any good advice (or what to expect) for those of us who still only bottle (and have no CO2/pressure equipment)...given the sensitivity to oxygen for this style.
Thanks agian..!
Thanks Vaun, much appreciated.
Yes that is correct. However, it is a choice. I prefer natural results in general personally. Overly clear beer feels fake.
Hi David, terrific video. I'm a little confused about water hardness. Does this style require a softer water than normal to enhance the smooth mouthfeel? Asking as I live in a hardwater area in the UK.
Thank you. Hard water (Like Burton on Trent) is ideal for IPA as it highlights hop characteristics. Very hard though is more ideal for stout. Soft water is better for lagers. Hardness isnt the full picture though.
Interesting to see dry hop in the keg. Is there a risk of grassy flavours because prolonged contact with dry hops?
Cheers Richard. No, not at serving temperature.
Loved the video going going to brew our 1st IPA tomorrow but I think this one is above our skill set whi'll set would you suggest 1 for our 1st time to brew an IPA
Great to hear John. In all honesty they are all pretty similar with hops in the boil and a dry hop.
Hey David! I will brew this again soon but now I have the hop rocket that I want to try. Quick question, after recirculating the worth through the hops for the hop stand do you also leave the hop rocket while cooling and transferring or do you remove it? Thanks!
Great to hear. I leave the hop rocket on for the duration. You will pick up different flavour this way due to the changing temps. 🍻🍻😎
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Awesome! I will try that!
Hi David - two quick queries, were you not tempted to use Lallemand New England yeast for this? Also very curious about your opinion on Whirlfloc/finings with hazy IPAs, my last (which used your grain bill but a mix of azacca/el dorado/abro hops) ended up as one of my clearest beers so currently wracking my brain for answers!
Hey 🍻🍻🍻
I have tried that yeast but find this cofermentation to simply do a better job flavour wise.
Technically Hazy beer does not need clearing but frankly it is all a matter of personal choice. It will just change the look.
Many thanks as ever David - much appreciated, having looked into it a bit further I also think the high flocculation properties of the yeast I used could be part of it. I’m a big fan of verdant but currently trying a variety of yeasts to shake things up, am thinking London fog next. Cheers! 🍻
@CavemanComplex London fog is great stuff too. I shared a new recipe video just yesterday that uses it . Here is a link ruclips.net/video/SZONbj9kBPs/видео.htmlsi=OCIkxGUCbALdzYr5
David, I'm looking at trying this recipe, I love a NEIPA. Before I jump in I have two questions. 1. I struggle with getting the correct ABV and have been advised to boil mostly at 90 minutes, curious about the 30 minutes and what this does? 2. The 60 day hop in the keg, would it affect the beer too much if the keg was to last 90 days? Cheers Nick.
Hey Nick. Focus on maximising on your mash, assuming you lack efficiency.
Grain crush is key, add in 2 3 minute stirs during the mash. Boil time is not very relevant in this regard. The 30 min boil keeps more flavour in and saves you time.
The 60 day hops are just hops in the key for slow release at beer serving temps. As long as serving temp is kept then these hops will not have any adverse effects over further time. I hope this helps 🍻🍻
Thanks David, I usually recirculate during the mash however I will stir also. Cheers Nick
A couple of three minute stirs of the whole grain bed will work wonders, as will sparging.
Thanks David. One last question if I may regarding fermentation. I ferment under pressure, so I'm just wondering after engaging the spunge valve on day 4, how much longer will the fermentation take, understanding that I will be dry hopping for 3 days once the FG gets to within 5 points. I know it's not an exact science but an estimate will allow me to plan when to brew. Cheers
I have just tried this beer after 2 weeks of carbonation. Very happy thanks David, nice fruity taste, exactly what I had hoped for.
Do you think Nectaron would work as a substitution for El Dorado? I know it's not the way you tweaked the recipe but what is your gut feeling?
Not one ive used, so hard to say really with any honesty.
Thanks for all great tips. It looks super smooth and tasty! Well done! 💙
Cheers Emil, it took some time to get this in shape but its been well worth it.
Hi just brewed this but the final gravity is about 4 points low, my beers always seem to go that way also i only had us-05 on hand which as you attentuate down hard. Would you suggest back sweetening with lme or cornsugar to add a couple of points back? Or would this impare the flavour? The only info on gravity adjustment i can find is for original gravity so far. Would the lme or cornsugar or nothing be better? It tastes dry and overly bitter i assume probably because of this
A few points here or there is no a bug impact and do not forget we can only estimate. 🍻🍻
I am going to give this a go soon.
Any strain of kveik you would recommend for this style of beer? Cheers 🍻
Hi Morten, I would suggest going with the yeast in the recipe for the best result. 1 pkg - Lallemand (LalBrew) Verdant IPA &
1 pkg - Lallemand (LalBrew) American West Coast. If you really must go with kveik then Voss or Lutra will work but for sure add in the Verdant yeast too.
Thanks for the quick reply. I'll just go for the recipe as intended. Looks amazing 🍻
@@mortenhanssen9953 Great, I am very sure that this will lead to the best end result.
For the pressure fermentation method, when are you dry hopping? When you ramp up to 25 @ 12psi?
Yes, exactly then 🍻🍻🍻
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thank you!
🍻🍻🍻
So do you just skip the El Dorado hops if you aren't going to dry hop in the keg, or do you add them to the 3 day dry hop schedule? Have you tried it both ways?
The Eldorado is just as a keg extra, ive not tried it as part of the dry hop. I am sure it would work if you want to add it.
love this channel
Thanks Edd, that means a lot 🍻🍻🍻
I recognise that glass logo from the brewery in Flam?
Yes, its a glass I bought there this summer.
When doing a pressure transfer, have you tried running the beer into the out post on the keg to avoid splashing?
I do it via enclosed transfer into the outpost yes. I control using a spunding valve on the target vessel.
Where can i get that glass?.. Nice.. Solid look and feel than other usual IPA glass..
Mine is from “Spiegelau”. Very nice quality. www.spiegelau.com/en/home/
@@DavidHeathHomebrew is that an IPA glass 500ml? Seems like the bottom part for holding is bit taller , or is that camera angle perspective illusion?
Mine is the IPA glass product number 499 13 82. They are all rather nice though.
7:09 Do you set the temperature straight to 25 degrees or do you ramp it up over days?
Start at 20 then towards the end ramp at 1C per day till 23C 🍻🍻🍻
Is there a specific temperature to dry hope at?
Also, do I need to cold crash it after dry hopping?
Ive tested all sorts and feel that your fermentation temp is going to work, the results are good when between 18-21 fir most peoples taste. Cold crash after is normal
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I have a special designed fermentation vessel that can oxygen free dry hopping, pressure fermentation, controlled temperature, and have cip system in it .
Sounds good 🍻🍻🍻
Hello David, i have some questions about the Dry Hopping. I have the Fermzilla in use to this recipe, but i don’t have those balls of tea that you have, so i’ll have to adjust this with the musseline bags that i have. So, i think i have 2 ways of doing the Dry Hopping: 1- put the musseline bag in the collection jar of the fermzilla an let it stay for 3 days. 2 - put the musseline bag the top of the Fermzilla, but in this way i don’t have any trick to take it out after 3 days, so i think i have to let ir stay unitl the end of the fermentation.
What is the way that you think is the best?
Another final question concerning to the carbonation: how many days do you think that the cabonation will be achieved at 25ªC and 12PSI?
I would suggest timing the dry hop so that it is present for a maximum of 5 days in total. Add the hops when you still have fermentation but are close to final gravity. 5 points is good for regular yeast.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thanks!
I’m finishing the fermentation (i think i won’t pass the mark of 1.015, but that’s ok for me).
Bu i have a question: how many days do you consider to stay at 12 PSI and 25.C to achieve the 2.4 vol. of CO2?
Great. Using pressure at fermentation temps is not for giving carbonation more than just a little head start. You will need to reduce temperature to add carbonation fully.
Can we get a video on cask or oak cubes in beer, or does the foeder ones cover all of these principles?
I did a video quite recently for a Bourbon stout that used oak chips and explained the methods. ruclips.net/video/XqqDumGY90c/видео.html
Hi David, just purchased Kegland's hop missile after watching your video. I get a question that how long should I keep it during the hop stand procedure? Or is it possible to cut the hop stand step and just let wort run through it while chilling, untill cool enough to get into fermenter? Many thanks!
Hi Brian, I suggest running it for the full step time.
Hi David, is it ok to dry hop at 25c under pressure yea? And how long would you dry hop for at the temp? I did the 4 days at 0psi now im 2 days into 12psi. Thanks
Hi, Dry hopping does not change in terms of time when it comes to pressure or temps. 3-5 days is ideal. Cheers 🍻🍻🍻
@@DavidHeathHomebrew fair play. Thanks for the reply as always 👉
Cheers 🍻🍻🍻
What about using Simcoe instead of Citra , because i have 100g not opened?
Up to you Robert but the recipe design is tweaked to its current ingredients.
I have used the hopblocker in a simular manner with decent results. I have found dipped hopping a NEIPA brings out more flavour I wonder if I should revisit this with a dipped hoped NEIPA for more aroma. Thanks for the video, cheers
Go for it for sure. 🍻🍻🍻
Hello David, onec again, great video and nice update to this recipe.
A question: can i add the Dry Hopping to the keg before i fill it? I will have the beer in fermzilla and i was thinking in lowering the temperature after i transfer to the keg. So, it's ok to add the Dry Hopping before filling up the keg? And what about lowering the temperature? Should i do it?
Sorry for some reason I missed this. Yes, there is no problem there.
Thanks for the video. I now realize the value of extra stirring during dough in. After a year of struggling, I'm using a coarser grind and stir like mad and have the best conversions to date. Now looking for a paddle like yours. Any tips?
Cheers Mark. Yes, graincrush and dough in method are critical. This paddle was made in Norway some years ago by a local craft centre. They are not sole not but you should be able to find something similar.
Great video with lots of valuable information. I have always wondered about the level of hygiene around dry hopping, yet the hops themselves might carry a lot of unknowns. I think it’s better to be safe than sorry, but any views over the microbiology of hops?
Thank you. Yes better safe than sorry. Hops are antibacterial in fact.
nice recipe. So during CT you have always your regulator to 3 psi? how much time takes to transfer?
Thank you. Yes, as a maximum usually. Ive never timed it but its not going to take very long.
Hi David, My LHBS does not carry Castle Malting. Is Chateau Oat basically flaked oats? Looking for a substitution. Thank you.
Its malted oat :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Hi David. This is confusing to me. My supplier carries Oat Malt which is actually a kernel type grain, but your video seems to show you adding flakes. Can you clarify?
On this particular brew I was unable to obtain the grain version myself, so I used flakes. This did mean a little alteration.
Hi ! Any reason why you now put malted wheat instead of non malted wheat in your old receipe ? Thanks !
Not really in all honesty, its just how the recipe evolved. You could switch as long as you make up for the losses.
Hi David. The IBUs in the comment above is still incorrect. According to BF it should be 29. cheers -j
Hmm Odd. I went through the whole thing and checked everything to be sure and found this last error. Thanks for letting me know.
Hi David. Can you help me with the fermentation profile for this beer? I've just spent a king's ransom for the ingredients and I don't want to screw it up. I will be fermenting in the GF Conical with the Glycol Chiller and/or heater dependent on ambient temperature. Your Brewfather recipe calls for 7 days at 20 and 7 days at 23, with a three day ramp somewhere in there. I intend to dry hop at 3 days as recommended and cold crash to 4-6 degrees at the end to hopefully drop the hops, and then use the GF PT kit to keg. Could you be more specific as to the expected fermentation times, when to ramp and how quickly? Thank you for your help if you can.
Sure Chris, no problem. These timings can only be estimates. I suggest starting at 20C until you are 5 gravity points away from FG. At this point add your dry hops and start adding temperature at 1C per day. Usually by the time you hit 23 it will be done but allow a few days to be sure. Ideally you want the dry hops in contact for 3 days but up to 5 days is fine.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks so much, David. One more thing, do you think it will work ok to add the dry hops loose to the GF conical and then cold crash at the end of fermentation? Note that I will be using the racking cane and transferring through the top. Also I believe the Glycol chiller will only get me down to 4-6 degrees celsius. Would that temperature be low enough to drop the hops? I will be using pellet hops. Thank you again for being our guru.
That should be ok, though if you can use a container or a hop sock then this will be better all round.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I’m trying to keep this as closed as possible and due to the very small diameter of the opening at the top of the fermenter, I didn’t think a container was viable. I certainly wouldn’t bother with the cold crash if I was using a container or sack. Cheers anyway.
@@chrislivesey9546 I hope it goes well Chris 🍻
Hi David, thanks again for another great video. I made this months ago, but was full of diacetyl (strong butterscotch flavor) after I kegged/bottled it. I must be doing something wrong because every time I dry hop, I end up with diacetyl :(. Could you propose a solution? I use a fermzilla at room temp and generally prefer bottling over kegging.
I would suggest adding the dry hop when you are 5-10 points away from gravity being careful to not splash. Then start adding further temperature to the maximum of the yeasts range at 1 deg c per day. Though if you are using pressure you can often go beyond this of course. Adding heat is the missing link here I suspect.
I've brewed this receipe, a bit concerned how to think regarding keg hoping. All I hear about ths type is how very sensitive it's for oxygen. How does that fit with adding hops to keg?
Also experienced Verdant yeast turbo speed. Ready for dry hoping after 2 days. During fermentation sampled it. It was fantastic! Looking forward to finished beer 🙂
If you follow my directions then you will be fine 🍻🍻🍻
@@DavidHeathHomebrew good to hear, I put my El Dorados in and let you know. Have high expectations for this beer or is it fruit juice 🙂
Great, I hope you enjoy it 🍻🍻
Love your vids mate, every recipe i have used has turned out awesome! but i need to know, how do you get through enough beer in such a short time to try and refine a recipe? you seem to put a vid out every week of so and by my calculations that's a shitload of god elixir to get through
Haha. I dont put out a new brew every week and what I do brew is shared. Otherwise my liver would be dead I think 🍻😜
Hi David, 60 days is a long time for a hop addition, is there any concern of grassy off-flavours or will be be masked by the mass hops from the previous additions?
This is simply for the optional in keg hops. At this temperature there are no concerns at all.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks. For clarity, can you explain why it isn't an issue with this recipe in particular? All your other videos say 5-7 days maximum for dry hop infusion.
Sure, because these hops are in the keg at fridge serving temperature. Temperature is key.
Amazing vid and recipe ! Now I know what I'm brewing next ! Thanks so much for sharing
Cheers Daniel. Do let me know what you think of the finished beer 🍻
What kind of at digital thermometer do you use, when you chill through the float chiller in this video?
This is an old but faithful one made by Hanna instruments. I have had this for over a decade but it is still nice and accurate.
Is it possible to buy a similar today? And where can I eventually buy it? If you know anything about it.
@@fangstspire674 I've not seen them sold for year's but you could pick up a newer version.
hannaservice.eu/products/
For the hop stand, could you use a hop tea instead?
Yes, this is probably its most useful swop. I would not use hop tea to replace a dry hop though usually.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I remember in your hop tea video you mentioned hop tea would be added to the keg or bucket. Are you finding that’s not the case anymore?
That is how I prefer to use it personally. The reason being that you will gain more flavour and aroma this way.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thanks! I think I’m a little confused now haha
So when could someone use a hop tea instead of traditional hopping?
See it as an option. You can swop it for late boil additions or have it as more. I tend to use it as more. Your choice, experiment and see what you.
Are you putting the hops in the top/lid filter in the hop missile? Or in the main chamber in a hop sock as you did in the hop missile video?
Hi Espen, always in the main chamber in a hop sock with rice hulls. It works well like this.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Did not have a hop socket and I had a few hours yestersday to brew. I tried to compensate with rice hulls, but it was apparently not enough. The G30 pump was really strugling with this setup and the stream of wort rescurilating was very small, allthough constant. I ran it anyway through the 15 minutes. Now I am not sure i will get enough of the bitterness in the NEIPA and since the most of the hops is still unused I am thinking whether to proceed with the dry hopping or start over another day as this is an expensive beer.
Hi Espen, As long as the hops got added and submerged then that is just fine, the oils will be released. No need to run the pump unless you are using a hop missile or rocket. 🍻🍻🍻
@@DavidHeathHomebrew i was using the hop missile.. :-(
Ahh ok, I see. Thats odd. It should handle that.
Hi David, Great video. I've just brewed your Kolsch and Grapefruit IPA, absolutely love the iPA might add a little more GF next time. The Kolsch is frill fermenting.
I'm now looking at the NEIPA Next Gen and I have come across a 500g pack of Eclipse hop. My question to you is would this be ok to substitute for the Centennial?
its Profile: Big-hitting flavour hop bursting with sweet mandarin, citrus peel and fresh pine needles. Brew Tips: Since it sits firmly in the fruit quadrant of our Hop Flavour Spectrum, it is well suited to fruit-forward beer styles.
Thanks
Cheers
Thanks Mark. You can certainly try this but it will be different. All my testing has been around the hops listed.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks for your reply David. I have always used your exact ingredients listed in the past, just need to use what I have. I am very keen to try the Eclipse in a NEPA. I will certainly brew this again using your hop additions. I enjoy and appreciate the efforts you place in your recipes and videos. Thanks Again
Cheers Mark, I hope you enjoy it :)
Hi David, thanks for another great video! Just one short question, the beer tasted great right after I bottled it, but after 3 or 4 weeks the beer became brown in colour and was no more drinkable, at all. I guess oxidation, right? I now have bought a beer gun and will put co2 in the bottles before filling them. this should solve it, what do you think?
Yes, that is oxidation sadly. Good that you have a solution. Be sure to avoid splashing by filling slower from the bottom upwards.
I see you use the beer out line of your ferm tank to the in line of your serving tank. Is there no concern of the beer foaming as it drops in? Also, if the pressure bleeds out of your serving tank out , will beer not pour out since it’s connected to the tube at the bottom for the tank? Thank you for the content !
Cheers 🍻It is all about controlling flow via pressure and a spunding valve to avoid splashing
Hey David great video. I just purchased a Fermzilla All Rounder. What would you suggest is the best way to dry hop in this vessel. I am specifically concerned about removing hops after 5 days or so to prevent grassiness. Do you address this in any of your other videos that I could watch? Looking forward to trying this recipe!
I would suggest using a container that you can fish out later in a clean and sanitary way. I use SS tea strainers but hop socks also work.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I have heard of some people using magnets to hold the bag or tea strainer above the wort and then lowering them when needed and raising them after their work is done. Have you tried this method, and if so have you included this in any of your videos?
This is not something that I have needed to do. Worst come worst you can clean and sanitise a paddle and use that to fish it out :)
Hi David, I do not really understand what you mean by 60 days? Lasse
This is the time , as an example , of the time that the keg hops will be present.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew hi again, I feel completely confused 😫, but when will El Dorado be in? sorry Lasse
Thats what goes into the keg as an optional extra dry hop.
Excellent tip about lowering pH! I discovered the same in one of my batches and polyphenols problems gone. Are you acidify your sparge water? What are your target sparge water pH?
Very sorry for the late comment for some reason RUclips hid this from me. Yes, it certainly works well. Personally I have trialled small batches with various PH levels until I found what was best for me. I suggest you do the same, we all taste things differently :)
Hi David
I held off on brewing this until I had proper temperature control. Question on the IBUs - there doesn't seem to be a lot of consensus about the IBU utilisation during Hop Stand. I've read anywhere from 2%-10%. Brewer's Friend is telling me 3.6%. What did you assume?
I went with Brewfathers numbers. There is a link in the videos description 🍻🍻🍻
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks
🍻🍻🍻
Hi David. I just noticed that in the text description of this recipe you list oat flakes, and in the video you use oat flakes, but in the BF recipe you list Castle Maltings Chateau Oat Malt.
Yes, I subbed my own recipe! Both work
@@DavidHeathHomebrew and do you have a preference?
Brewed this one 15 days ago and just poured the first pint after dry hopping in the keg. Sooooo good!!
David, I just have one question. I read a lot of people not recommending leaving the beer with the hops for more than a week to avoid grassy notes. Is it something you've experienced?
Great to hear 🍻🍻🍻
Yes, 3 days contact time is plenty, 5 is as far as I go. So ignore those recipes that suggest adding dry hops early in fermentation. Bad idea.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew what about the dry hops in the keg? Would you recommend leaving them in there or taking out after some time?
As long as the keg is stored at serving temperature then you can leave the hops in.
I need to get a kegging setup, I really want to try one of these. Bottling just seems to be asking for an oxidized beer, so I have been avoiding brewing this style.
I would certainly recommend it, or go for a unitank set up. Easier, more protective and very satisfying.
If you have a pressure fermenter you can do pressurised closed transfers into PET bottles using a carb cap, a certain Swedish brew tubing doctor has a couple of videos on this subject.
🍻🍻🍻
Hi David, I'm wondering if you've posted a style guide on IPA? If not you know where I can find it? Lars
Hi Lars, IPA is split into various sub styles these days. You can search “David Heath IPA” on RUclips to see everything covered so far. If the type you are looking for is missing let me know :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thank you very much 🙏 I will hear from you if I can not find it 😉
Cheers Lars 🍻🍻🍻
Thanks for the excellent video as always David. Could I just check - the Brewfather recipe says a 2litre sparge which seems low, is that correct? I'm hoping it is correct as my mash has been super thick for a recent NEIPA due to me thinking I need a bigger sparge, and I'd like a thinner mash with more water if the smaller sparge is OK, it's also a quicker process. is there any optimum ratio for the sparge in your experience?
Thank you. Yes, that is correct. Its due to the volume and grainbill. Larger volume would increase the sparge.
I brewed this a few days ago and it's 48h into fermentation using 20 degrees C, I'm going the pressure route. It's now at 1.026, 13 points from calculated FG and at this rate I fear it will be fully attenuated (or only having a few points to go) before going the full 4 days. Is it better to wait the four days and then dry hop, and add pressure even if it means passing 1.018, or if it gets to 1.018 before 4 days should I dry hop and pressure then?
Really its best to not use any pressure at all for the first 3-4 days, otherwise you supress the yeasts flavour and aroma. I suggest dry hopping when you are 5-10 gravity points away from the predicted FG.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks. I will dry hop when reaching appropiate SG and not add pressure until Day 4.
Great, enjoy 🍻🍻🍻
I’d like to make this recipe but don’t have temp control. Any recommendations? Should I ferment at room temp (70 degrees) for a few days and then pressure ferment for the rest?
Hi Adam, that sounds like a good plan. I would strongly recommend a temp control set up for the future though, unless you want to go the kveik route.
Great video David. What temperature did you mash at?
Thank you :)
65C/75C. The full recipe is shared in the videos description, which is below the video on a desktop computer 🍻
Hi David, im soon brewing a copy of this one. I couldnt get El Dorado and cant keg, so made some changes. Was hoping on a comment from you to the changes. The links in the reply.
I see the beggings of two of your comments but they are deleted. Must be RUclips. Are you a member of my channels Facebook group? Make a post there If you wish :)
Obvious question here ... but by using the hoprocket during hopstand, is the end result remarkeble significant? Or does it make the hopflavor a little bit more significant? Now a days i only brew your recipice based upon your videos and i love it!! Thank u so much.
Hi Christian, certainly I notice a marked improvement but taste buds vary. Ive not heard of any one buying the hop rocket or missile that was t happy with the difference.
Hi david. I just brewed this about 10 days ago, fermented with lallemand Voss Kveik (quickly) and am already enjoying it! It came out fantastic (!) but I do think it came out more bitter than 29 IBUs. I don‘t have a hop rocket and just added the whirlpool hops to the kettle. So, they end up staying in there until I‘ve completely transferred (thru my cf-chiller) to the FV, which probably takes half an hour, and now I‘m wondering if this leads to (much) more bitterness than intended. Would you recommend removing the whirlpool hops after a certain length of time?
IBU is just part of the equation of bitterness. Its the ratio of IBU and alcohol that matters. There is also perceived bitterness that fades in new brews. You can only gain a certain amount of bitterness from any hops. Temperature is more important than time. The lower the temps the less bitterness.
Is the pressure at the start or end of the temperature ramp? Thanks.
I add it from the start 🍻
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thanks David
Cheers 🍻
David. It look delicious, I will definitely try it out ❤️
I noticed tha you used the inlet on the Keg, probably just a photo ups in your always very clean and perfect video.
Thanks for your time and effort and not least, Sharing this recipe👍👍
Cheers Allan. Let me know what you think once you have tried it :)
Hi David, do you cold crash this brew before keg transfer? I normally do but don't want to lose any haziness. thanks
I do not personally 🍻🍻🍻
Ok but the acidmalt is for the lowering the PH , i suppose i can use lactic acid to reach your optimal pH , which is? 5.3?
Or is it for something more?
Sure, the acid malt is optional :)
Great video as always! I'm now using Kveik for all my NEIPA's and IPA's but I have had problems with hop aroma in my finished beers. Therefore I'm currently experimenting with using more whirlpool hops, lower amounts of dry hops in the Fermentor and a greater amount of lupomax hops in my keg. The aroma is certainly a lot better but I still need to balance the ratios. I'm also considering a Hop Missile but they are not available in Ireland and the Hop Rocket is for whole hops only....
Hi Fin, Its great to experiment.
Actually the Hop Rocket can be used with pellets.
I show how to do this with the Hop Missile (its a copy of the rocket) in this video:- ruclips.net/video/Xu1VLhLKWX4/видео.html
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I might give it a try! Thx :)
🍻🍻🍻
Can you explain how hop creep have anything to do with DMS? Or do you mean how hop creep can contribute to diacetyl? You mentioned this at (6:42)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew can you explain or find a reference to how hop creep leads to DMS? Or how hop creep is avoided by raising the temperature?
Sure, there are many out there, here is the first:- rockstarbrewer.com/how-dry-hop-creep-causes-diacetyl-in-beer-and-how-brewers-can-minimise-the-risk/
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Yes, they discuss diacetyl but not DMS. DMS (Dimethyl sulfide) are created from hot worth. Not from hop creep :)
I think perhaps there is some confusion here.
I believe the section of the video that you are referring to was the dry hop section?
Here I stated the following:-
“I suggest adding your dry hops whilst you still have fermentation and are 5-10 gravity points away from the predicted final gravity. This is also the point where I am ramping up temperature to protect against the potential of dms and hop creep.
I have never suffered either of these problems in the decades that I have been brewing nor have I suffered with contamination issues either, so I am somewhat confident that this all works.”
I am not saying there is a link with hop creep and DMS. They are 2 separate issues.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks for the answers. I actually found what i was looking for regarding this topic. "Fermentation Temperature
A 1980 Journal of the Institute of Brewing looked at both original gravities of wort and the temperature of fermentation and the effects on DMS in beer. The authors found that worts of high gravities create substantially more DMS than worts of low gravities. Specifically, fermentations of a 1.060 wort had over three times more DMS than a 1.033 wort (adjusted with either glucose or fructose to achieve the higher gravity). With respect to fermentation temperature, it was found that as the temperature increased the level of DMS decreased. The maximum DMS level achieved with a ferment at 46°F was five times greater than a ferment conducted at 77°F.19 This is because DMS production by yeast is greater at lower temperatures."
Hi David. I have been silent for a while integrating all the information and knowlege aquired the weeks before. We have continued brewing and drinking, and understanding better the links between the different steps involved in the whole process... We intend to brew this NEIPA as our batch no 13. I am wondering what water profile would you suggest for that beer? Thanks. And thank you for all your great videos, they are so packed of information.
Cheers Luke great to hear. I shared my suggested water profile in the video at the 1 minute 11 second stage. Its a great profile for NEIPA in general.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew David, I am really, really sorry about that. No later than last saturday I had this reflexion to myself that I should watch the video of a recipe once more before I brew it cause there is a lot of complementary information in there (much more than the recipe). I should also watch it again before I ask questions. My recollection averages 8 seconds so I can't even remember my own advises :-) . But when it hurts I can recall for much longer. And your reply did hurt . Thank you for this reply. I won't do it again. Cheers David.! And thank you so much.
Hey, no worries at all Luc 🍻🍻🍻
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks, David, You are very kind.
I Brewed this beer 2 days ago. Yesterday, after about 36 hours in the fermenter when I was away from home, the cooling stopped working on my fermenter and the temperature reached 23.5 before I could bring cooling back to work. I lowered it to 22. Now I wonder what to do tempereture wise. It's day two of the first 7 days stage that should be at 20 and already at 1.022 SG . What do you suggest? Thank you David
Hi David,
Brewing my first style this weekend so was keen to hear your guidance on the style. Thanks for the video. Couple of quick questions: given the hazy aspect, does this mean Protafloc and the likes are not needed? Secondly, sorry if I missed it in the video, but looking at the amount of hops in the recipe, is still for a 19L-5G output?
Hi Lionel,
It is a hazy style so by all means leave it as is but it is up to you.
Yes, the recipe is for 19L but is is a hoppy one.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thank you!
🍻🍻🍻cheers🍻🍻🍻
How do you calculate CO2 in the finished beer with pressurized fermentation? Even when you add pressure at the end like this vid. Are you doing any force carb? I'm about to add pressure fermentation to my flex+
With the temperature of fermentation its not going to make a huge difference at normal pressure levels so there is no real need to calculate it. However if you note that you are higher in carbonation than desired its also an easy thing to fix in a keg or unitank.
I saw a neat trick recently where a brewtuber (I think it was theappartmentbrewer, but not sure) used magnets to secure the dryhopping bag to the lid. He needed a stack of magnets to keep the bag up, and let it drop by removing the stack of magnets on the outside.
I suppose this is more straightforward with a plastic lid, but i guess you could experiment using a smaller weaker magnet on the inside and a stronger one on the outside where the small magnet will not be sufficient to keep the hop bag to your metal lid/'roof'.
This could save you a risky step with the open fermenter and I'll be sure to try it the next time I need a dryhop addition.
Thanks for sharing. Fishing line is the easiest and cheapest way and its tough enough to withstand a shut lid. Tie it down outside of the lid.
I’ve just brewed this NEIPA in my kegmenter. I use two strong magnets and have the hop bag inside the fermenter. 7 days in I remove the outer magnet and the hop bag drops into the beer. I’ve had a couple of wort explosions previously when triple dry hopping and opening up so I’ve just gone this way recently. Day 10 now and sitting at 1.01 and smells great. Will keg tomorrow.
Great :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I’ve finally cracked a great hazy IPA with your recipe and method. The result is awesome! I used Nelson Sauvin for the 60day keg hops as I couldn’t get the El Dorado. With my hop bag using magnets in my kegmenter some of the bag and hops were touching the beer before fermentation so I probably got some early bio-transformation. I will get more magnets and use two smaller bags next time to avoid this. The result though is fantastic. Colour is great as well.
Thanks David!
Great to hear :) Yes, took a while to get this recipe right but it was worth it. I suspect that the Nelson keg hops give it a nice twist. 🍻🍻🍻
what would be a "close enough" kveik alternative to ferment at 30-32c ambient?
There isnt really as the lack of verdant will change this. However, I am sure that this would still taste good with voss. Just not the same. You note the attenuation I aimed for with the BRY97 too.
@@DavidHeathHomebrewunderstood. thanks! Will try to improvise a bit. The joys of living in tropical country :)
Sorry if this question has already been answered, but how long would you leave hops in the keg for? I would have thought if you didn’t drink the beer within a week, it would taste pretty “green”.
No problem. Due to the temperature of a keg when added into a fridge which is set at drinking temperatures there is no concern here. This can be left for multiple months without any problems.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew good to know. Thanks
🍻🍻🍻
I've brewed a few NEIPA beers over the last year and thought is give this a go. Followed the recipe exactly except scaling up for a brewzilla 65. The beer is crystal clear! It also fermented out at record time using two yeast strains. Would the lack of biotranformation have causes this to occur because we missed hopping at high krausen? The fast ferment (had significantly slowed down by day 3)? Or something else? I always believed that oats and wheat made the beer permanently hazy but the more I read the less I think this is the case.
Truth be told this can certainly happen with any NEIPA. There are chemicals that the industry use to produce haze just in case. On a homebrew level I would not worry, its really about taste :)
Informative and interesting. Subscribed. But I'm glad I do brew in bag. I'm simple. :)
Thanks. All in one systems are not super different really. Instead of a bag you have a basket. Sure there is a sparge but thats optional for all.
What type of keg are you using to ferment? Was the opening for it custom made or stock? What is the size for the triclamp?
I am using these:- ruclips.net/video/KZGBnO6Ky-E/видео.html
Here is another video too:- ruclips.net/video/wcd5mRVJ0Ss/видео.html
@@DavidHeathHomebrew oh I didn't realize that you made video on that. Everything is clear now. Thanks David :)
Oh yes, two :) I also own two of these myself. Cheap, effective, will probably outlive me!!
Yep the fact it's ss makes this indestructible and gives a lot of options. I am thinking about buying a used keg and adapting it as kegmentor to fit the 4 inch kegland lid. Additionally i want to make 2inch hole to fit a butterfly valve with pipe and another kegland lid, this time the tiny 2inch version for oxygen free hop addition. This would be insane value for the money spend.
Hi David. I‘ve been wondering what exactly is it about this recipe that you consider to be ‚Next Generation‘? What are the key differences distinguishing it from ‚First Generation‘ NEIPAs from say, 5 (to 18) years ago (first NEIPA in 2011( Heady Topper in 2004(?!)), added as official style in 2015), for example?
This is explained in detail in the video.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Oddly, no, it isn’t. I re-watched it. Of course I can compare your 2019 recipe with this one and see the differences in the recipes, but you don‘t mention your reasons for the changes in this „2. Generation“ recipe at all, nor anything about in what way the style has evolved which prompted these changes (e.g. neither munich I nor crystal in this recipe…I know that especially crystal has dropped out of favor in this style because of oxidation issues(/rumors?)…). That kind of background information in addition to your tips for brewing might also have been interesting for beer „nerds“ who appreciate the background knowledge. 🤓 Cheers! 🍻
The reason for the changes is due to the evolution of the style. This is not my doing, it is the changes made by breweries to the style over time that have spread.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I‘m sorry, David, you got the wrong impression…I understand that you‘re saying the style has evolved (though you don’t say how) and hence you made changes, and I certainly don’t want you to justify /making/ changes to achieve new goals! What I was wondering is what, as you see it, are the ways in which the style has changed, what are the newer expectations on the style (as opposed to 5-10 years ago), and how do your changes address these new expectations? I‘m trying to understand the mechanics of recipe development. So, e.g., what new goals were you trying to achieve with the recipe that lead you, e.g., to take out munich I and crystal? Simply less „maltiness“ and/or residual sweetness, or something more complex (that I might be unaware of..)? Did you remove amarillo and simcoe just for your personal taste, or for some other reason? I‘m guessing what I was asking is what were the concrete goals that motivated the individual recipe changes? But I understand that this is probably a much too in depth question to answer in youtube comments. Cheers! 🍻
The style has quite drastically changed in terms of flavour. There is more contribution from malt and hops and alcohol. You can see this in the base malt choice for example. Originally pilsner malt now a split between pils and pale for more flavour. There is less base malt than before leading to more contributions of oats and wheat. Hops wise this is also seeing an increase with choices leading to a wider fruit profile. NEIPA became an enhancement of itself essentially. In terms of my choices for the recipe I put forward I simply wanted to reflect this and at the same time come with something different for people to enjoy. I have quite a library of recipes that I have written over time for the style and my choice of which to share is always based on feedback for the people around me.