In this video we describe the similarities and differences in a generator and an alternator and how you would have to rewire your car to install an alternator
I know you have been and will continue to get praise for this video. All this electrical stuff is beyond me.watching your video was way better than any one I've seen. I like that you keep it simple. So will everyone else. There are folks that know a lot but can't teach it. You can do both. Thanks!
I love your vids, everytime I see a video posted by Moss I know I'm gonna learn something. Clear and straightforward teaching. Keep Up the great work and keep em coming.
Thank you! Most well done and thoroughly informative video I have seen on RUclips. I want to watch all your videos just to glean some knowledge from them. Please please keep it up.
I LOVE THE SIMPLICITY OF YOUR VIDEOS!!!! (I hate videos that first explain for ten minutes what the video is going to be about which takes half of the video so, thank you for jumping right in).
I have a 72 Type 1 Beetle which still has the original generator (been in my family since 1972, I've owned it since 1981). I've waited my whole life to have that explained to me in a way I could understand. Thank you! I don't think I will be replacing that generator with another rebuilt one again
Your description and explanation are great, and will definitely help me with my generator to ONE wire alternator conversion on my 64 Ford Galaxie. One thing I did notice and made me go Hmmmm, was the battery in your illustration shows the + positive terminal going to ground and the - negative terminal attaching to the starter solenoid. That's got to be just an oops. Thanks for making the video!!
This was perfect, excellent teaching! I put a one wire alternator in my 64 1/2 mustang (only year Mustangs came with generator). Instructions said I could leave the voltage regulator in place or bypass. The alternator is 'special' meaning it still looks like a generator for nostalgia detailing. I left the voltage regulator in place (for looks and wiring connected as-is, BAT, FLD, ARM) and the charging system would be finicky -meaning not charge most of the time while driving, only 3.0 volt output. I figured the alternator would not excite at low or higher rpm's and start charging the system. Inner-web research came up with this lesson. So I gutted the voltage regulator and placed the terminals (BAT FLD ARM) in series. Now I still have all the looks of a generator under the hood -but the benefits of an alternator. Including x2 the amps (gen @ 25-30 amp vs ALT 65 amp idle). However, one problem, the OIL and GEN light stay on constantly without the key or ignition turned on. GRRR! Does MOSS have a lesson for this too?
you prolly dont give a damn but does any of you know a way to log back into an Instagram account..? I was stupid forgot my account password. I would appreciate any assistance you can give me.
@Cairo Mitchell thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site thru google and im trying it out atm. I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Great video, thank you. BUT you have got the battery connected the wrong way around. Should be negative to ground! There should also be a fuse rated just above the maximum charge current of the alternator, in the battery line for safety. That way your wiring wont burn if a diode in the alternator goes short circuit! Thanks again.
Hi I have mentioned you in one of my videos and added a link to this video. I hope you don’t mind if you do let me know and I will take it down. It’s a great exploration to why the indicators don’t work. Cheer
Many thanks for the explanation. I know that somewhere in that system there has to be a fuse board. With your explanation I would imagine that the fuse fix between the alternator and the systems being powered ?
@Moss Motors, Ltd. Are you sure that the early generators were AC? My money says they were DC! They had regulators yes, but they didn't have diodes to convert from AC to DC. Am I wrong?
Excellent well explained, but could I ask will this be ok to change the positive earth on my tractor to negative earth, now these tractors have simple wiring but me and wiring are not mates, give me a spanner and nuts and bolts any day,Will I need to change the ammeter and oil pressure gauge and thanks for sharing it was well put across.
Im converting my 1965 cj5 kaiser jeep to a altanator weve got it mounted and the internle voltage regulater is hooked to the lamp postand another terminal of the voltage regulator to a ground but its still not charging... It will fire up and run but it doesnt charge.... My starter selinoid is a 1 prong set up with one for the battery and another for the switch and another with a copper arm to the starter (geussing a ground).....my question is do i need to get a selinoid that is two prong(i and s),....one comming from battery, two coming from starter, one coming from ignition?
Firstly the output of the alternator will be far bigger than the dynamo could manage, typically 70amp versus 20amp. check that you wiring can handle the potential max output of the alternator. Secondly, the ammeter cables will have to be swapped over or the gauge will read backwards. If you have a radio fitted it will have to be changed as it will be for pos earth, some early sets had a switch to swop the polarity so check yours. Any thing that has an electric motor, windows, seat adjusters, radio ariel etc you will have to swap the cables at the motor. Otherwise an excellent video production. Liked
excellant video. I have just fitted this conversion to my tractor. made it to negative earth and so on but i have a problem with the coil ( swaped the LT wires around as said with instructoins) its getting very hot and the engine will not start but leave the coil to cool down it starts straight and will run for hours with no problem but once switched off it will not start (coil very hot). The question is have i done something wrong or is the coil bad? I am a mechanic but we are allways learning.
Thanks so much, nicely done. My external regulator has a "W" terminal. Any idea what do with that terminal? In your diagram there is a wire labeled 'W". What is the contaminant it is feeding? Also: Should there be a signal from the "F" terminal of the regulator to the field terminal on the generator itself? 12 volts maybe to excite the field wingdings to create the magnet effect? Thanks again... +
what becomes of the ammeter if it maxes out at 30 amps with the generator and the new alternator is over 80 amps? Bypass It? replace it with a higher amp scale ammeter?
I updated to a Ford 3G alternator in my 1970 Ford F-100 and it works well. However I have not been able to get the amp gauge to work with this setup. I have read that if a 560 ohm resistor is installed in the "switch on" lead to the alternator then the amp gauge will work. I need to know how big the wattage of such a resistor needs to be. No one seems to say what size when describing this procedure. Help with this would appreciated.
Very good simple to follow instructions 👍, my question is in the last page diagram u put up the + terminal of the battery is showing going to ground.. And the - going to the starter solenoid.. So excuse my lack of knowledge.. But where does the circuit get the + (live) from?
Hello my friend, i could use some help. I have a Mercury Monterey custom 1962, this vehicle has a generator with a regulator with exterior voltage already integrated. I'm trying to put an alternator instead of a generator. My question is how can I connect the alternator and eliminate the use of the regulator part. I was watching a video that you posted where you explain the different connections. This regulator has the same connections AR, FL, and BAT. This alternator with 3 exits B , 1 and 2 exits how can I connect it ?. Hopefully you can help me.
Great explanation. So I want to completely gut the old external regulator of it’s coils etc and use the terminal connections surrounding the regulator to fasten my new alternator leads using the old wire harness for aesthetics. The old voltage regulator is a Bosch 1965 and the new alternator is a Delco 10SI. I am going to add a 10 gauge wire inside the voltage regulator soldered in place to connect the D+ and B+ terminals so I can then fasten the BAT lead from the alternator to the D+ and supply power to accessories and charge the battery. All of the terminal connections are external on the regulator using machined screws to fasten. I want to use the DF terminal on the old regulator to fasten the field wire from the alternator to the amp light wire. Can I use the old terminal? I checked with a multi meter and the terminal is grounded but will that matter for the field to amp light wiring? I know this is an old posting but really hope you respond to questions like this. Thanks, Michael
I really like this series of videos but, sadly they are few and far beetween. It's like I'm back in school again but, this time around I don't mind it.
When converting from positive earth to negative earth the ammeter wiring will have to swapped around and the power to the coil will also have to be swapped around.
Hello there I am planning on converting my 49 ford to 12 volt but I am kind of stuck...:( I would like to try and keep my gauges all stock what could I to do so? Thank you and on yoy DIY video I don't believe I have a warning light on mine just the amperage meter .. any information would sure help me build my project thanks
Geat video, thanks, spot on. Question: converting from positive ground to negative ground, online forums say "don't worry about the starter motor"- whatever that means. Surely, if one changes the polarity of the vehicle frame it will try to turn the starter motor the wrong way? Can anyone enlighten me on this? (my Vehicle = Fordson Major Tractor too old to have relays). Cheers :)
Positive ground? Though he mentions positive ground and converting to negative ground, the last time I dealt with a positive ground vehicle was my 1931 Desoto. I've also heard of having to place a diode in line with the output wire to prevent battery discharge during times the vehicle is not running? Any truth to that?
I understand you were saying except at the end...Positive ground, negative ground. You said alternators run on a negative ground circuit, but the schematic shows a positive ground on the battery,,. or maybe I misunderstand what pos. neg. ground means?
I've got a problem with this. All alternators I'm finding have 1 wire or 3 terminals not 2 as you're showing. I haven't found any alternators for sale with only 2 terminals. Do some alternators only have 2 terminals or do they all have either 1 or 3? On youtube explanations on replacing generators with alternators, some diagrams show terminal 1 being the field terminal but other diagrams show terminal 2 being the field. Which is it?
Love your videos! But the alternator for a 79 Midget 1500 comes with three connectors at the back, and I have no idea where does the other one goes, I assume one is ground, anyone know?
Actually the (rectifier) diode bank on that particular type of alternator has nine diodes not six, it has three main positive three negative and three exciter diodes to excite the warning light.
Ok, I figured out why there might be some thumbs down: The schematic drawings all show the battery having a positive "+" to ground and show the negative "-" as connected to the starter solenoid. So the absolute clearest alternator explanation on RUclips has a fairly important but simple mistake that would require a re-shoot of at least the video portion with the corrected schematic drawings. Once that is done, this video will be perfect!
This video is excellent, but I have noticed one thing wrong with the last presentation slide in that, the battery is shown as positive earth and should now be negative on completion of the conversion ??
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This hast to be the best video I've ever seen. So easily explained without fluff or fuss. Thank you for this amazing production.
This is one of the best, most informative how-to videos I've ever seen. And I do how-to videos!! Thank you!
Everyone has said it all. Brilliantly clear brilliantly executed I wish all utube videos were like this
Undoubtedly the best explanation of the differences and the wiring process for fitting an alternator.
I know you have been and will continue to get praise for this video. All this electrical stuff is beyond me.watching your video was way better than any one I've seen. I like that you keep it simple. So will everyone else. There are folks that know a lot but can't teach it. You can do both. Thanks!
Thank you for making an easy to understand explanation of how both systems are built and work. Helped me out a lot.
Nice job! I am an electrical engineer and this still taught me useful info. Thank you!👍
Very impressive & clear explanation , love this video , great effort sir, thanks.
I love your vids, everytime I see a video posted by Moss I know I'm gonna learn something. Clear and straightforward teaching. Keep Up the great work and keep em coming.
Best instructions on the internet
Just done this to my'56 GMC truck, worked a treat, thanks for the great video.
Thank you! Most well done and thoroughly informative video I have seen on RUclips. I want to watch all your videos just to glean some knowledge from them. Please please keep it up.
Excellent instructional video. Thank you.
Moss team: A really excellent, concise and practical explanation, many thanks for this. I'm now inspired to convert to an alternator in my TR3A.
i have a lot of people try to explain and failed at it you did a great deal in explaining it good job a+
I LOVE THE SIMPLICITY OF YOUR VIDEOS!!!! (I hate videos that first explain for ten minutes what the video is going to be about which takes half of the video so, thank you for jumping right in).
I have a 72 Type 1 Beetle which still has the original generator (been in my family since 1972, I've owned it since 1981). I've waited my whole life to have that explained to me in a way I could understand. Thank you! I don't think I will be replacing that generator with another rebuilt one again
Excellent! Thank you for the easy-to-understand explanation.
Thank you. You explained quite a lot to me in a short time.
Fantastic ! Clear and comprehensive. Thank you!
Thank you for your GREAT tutorial!!
Awesome video! Exactly what I was looking for. Easy to follow great information! '63 Ford Econoline with a failing generator, you helped so much!
Doing the same for my 62 Econo!
Your description and explanation are great, and will definitely help me with my generator to ONE wire alternator conversion on my 64 Ford Galaxie. One thing I did notice and made me go Hmmmm, was the battery in your illustration shows the + positive terminal going to ground and the - negative terminal attaching to the starter solenoid. That's got to be just an oops. Thanks for making the video!!
At one time, some cars had positive ground. Negative ground has become universal today.
thanks great info , 48 dodge were positive ground -and you answered my concern -
very well explained, thank you for sharing
simple and instructive - excellent
awesome teaching style, I love it.
very nice narration and good competent explanation
it's super clear !!!
there is some variances with manufacturers but the general wiring is the same
I love your voice. Very clear.
Dang,,, good info, have to save this one into my playlist.
Thank you, it is very clear and nicely explained
Excellent explanation & narration.
Very helpful video! Thank you.
excellent video! very very good description. thank you
Great video!! Thank you.
Thanks for saving me so much time.
Fantastic explanation - great work :-)
Awesome channel.
This was perfect, excellent teaching!
I put a one wire alternator in my 64 1/2 mustang (only year Mustangs came with generator). Instructions said I could leave the voltage regulator in place or bypass. The alternator is 'special' meaning it still looks like a generator for nostalgia detailing. I left the voltage regulator in place (for looks and wiring connected as-is, BAT, FLD, ARM) and the charging system would be finicky -meaning not charge most of the time while driving, only 3.0 volt output. I figured the alternator would not excite at low or higher rpm's and start charging the system. Inner-web research came up with this lesson. So I gutted the voltage regulator and placed the terminals (BAT FLD ARM) in series. Now I still have all the looks of a generator under the hood -but the benefits of an alternator. Including x2 the amps (gen @ 25-30 amp vs ALT 65 amp idle). However, one problem, the OIL and GEN light stay on constantly without the key or ignition turned on. GRRR! Does MOSS have a lesson for this too?
wow, this really help full to do a conversion plus I know how each wire functions
Great job - many thanks
Very clear, awesome.
Great video. Well delivered and just what I needed to convert from an alternator with ext regulator to one with built in.
you prolly dont give a damn but does any of you know a way to log back into an Instagram account..?
I was stupid forgot my account password. I would appreciate any assistance you can give me.
@Anders Conner Instablaster :)
@Cairo Mitchell thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site thru google and im trying it out atm.
I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Cairo Mitchell it worked and I finally got access to my account again. I am so happy:D
Thank you so much, you really help me out!
@Anders Conner You are welcome :)
Thank you for this insightful video
Awesome video. Well done!
Fantastic video, by the way.
Thank you for good demo
Great video, thank you. BUT you have got the battery connected the wrong way around. Should be negative to ground! There should also be a fuse rated just above the maximum charge current of the alternator, in the battery line for safety. That way your wiring wont burn if a diode in the alternator goes short circuit! Thanks again.
Great catch
Perfect explanation...
brilliant thanks
Very good video :) Thank you.
so very well described
I've been wanting to know that for a long time he spelled it out to the T thank you
Awesome 👍
Very nice video. Simple to follow. Subscribed I am. Thanks
thank you so much, I have a 27' Willys Knight
thanks man
Great .thanx
Perfect
What a video!
Hi I have mentioned you in one of my videos and added a link to this video. I hope you don’t mind if you do let me know and I will take it down. It’s a great exploration to why the indicators don’t work. Cheer
Many thanks for the explanation. I know that somewhere in that system there has to be a fuse board. With your explanation I would imagine that the fuse fix between the alternator and the systems being powered ?
I had a Triumph Herald that was positive ground.
The premise was that the electrons flowing through the body would help to keep the car rust free
@Moss Motors, Ltd. Are you sure that the early generators were AC? My money says they were DC! They had regulators yes, but they didn't have diodes to convert from AC to DC. Am I wrong?
thank u.....
Great
Excellent well explained, but could I ask will this be ok to change the positive earth on my tractor to negative earth, now these tractors have simple wiring but me and wiring are not mates, give me a spanner and nuts and bolts any day,Will I need to change the ammeter and oil pressure gauge and thanks for sharing it was well put across.
Good you have added instrction to video to change polarity of battery
Im converting my 1965 cj5 kaiser jeep to a altanator weve got it mounted and the internle voltage regulater is hooked to the lamp postand another terminal of the voltage regulator to a ground but its still not charging... It will fire up and run but it doesnt charge.... My starter selinoid is a 1 prong set up with one for the battery and another for the switch and another with a copper arm to the starter (geussing a ground).....my question is do i need to get a selinoid that is two prong(i and s),....one comming from battery, two coming from starter, one coming from ignition?
Firstly the output of the alternator will be far bigger than the dynamo could manage, typically 70amp versus 20amp. check that you wiring can handle the potential max output of the alternator. Secondly, the ammeter cables will have to be swapped over or the gauge will read backwards. If you have a radio fitted it will have to be changed as it will be for pos earth, some early sets had a switch to swop the polarity so check yours. Any thing that has an electric motor, windows, seat adjusters, radio ariel etc you will have to swap the cables at the motor. Otherwise an excellent video production. Liked
Kudos to you very good video. Can you let me know what program you used to make your diagrams?
Thanks.
I have a 62 ford with a 3 wire external voltage regulator. Any help on how to wire when converting to an alternator?
excellant video. I have just fitted this conversion to my tractor. made it to negative earth and so on but i have a problem with the coil ( swaped the LT wires around as said with instructoins) its getting very hot and the engine will not start but leave the coil to cool down it starts straight and will run for hours with no problem but once switched off it will not start (coil very hot). The question is have i done something wrong or is the coil bad? I am a mechanic but we are allways learning.
Big help, i’ll be fitting an alternator to my ford zephyr mk1 and removing the control box, Same wiring as in your diagram
Thanks so much, nicely done.
My external regulator has a "W" terminal. Any idea what do with that terminal? In your diagram there is a wire labeled 'W". What is the contaminant it is feeding?
Also: Should there be a signal from the "F" terminal of the regulator to the field terminal on the generator itself? 12 volts maybe to excite the field wingdings to create the magnet effect?
Thanks again...
+
what becomes of the ammeter if it maxes out at 30 amps with the generator and the new alternator is over 80 amps? Bypass It? replace it with a higher amp scale ammeter?
I updated to a Ford 3G alternator in my 1970 Ford F-100 and it works well. However I have not been able to get the amp gauge to work with this setup. I have read that if a 560 ohm resistor is installed in the "switch on" lead to the alternator then the amp gauge will work. I need to know how big the wattage of such a resistor needs to be. No one seems to say what size when describing this procedure. Help with this would appreciated.
Great video! Does anyone have a good help for doing this same job but with a one-wire alternator?
Very good simple to follow instructions 👍, my question is in the last page diagram u put up the + terminal of the battery is showing going to ground.. And the - going to the starter solenoid.. So excuse my lack of knowledge.. But where does the circuit get the + (live) from?
Great observation, I noticed it to
Hello my friend, i could use some help. I have a Mercury Monterey custom 1962, this vehicle has a generator with a regulator with exterior voltage already integrated. I'm trying to put an alternator instead of a generator. My question is how can I connect the alternator and eliminate the use of the regulator part. I was watching a video that you posted where you explain the different connections. This regulator has the same connections AR, FL, and BAT. This alternator with 3 exits B , 1 and 2 exits how can I connect it ?. Hopefully you can help me.
Great explanation. So I want to completely gut the old external regulator of it’s coils etc and use the terminal connections surrounding the regulator to fasten my new alternator leads using the old wire harness for aesthetics. The old voltage regulator is a Bosch 1965 and the new alternator is a Delco 10SI. I am going to add a 10 gauge wire inside the voltage regulator soldered in place to connect the D+ and B+ terminals so I can then fasten the BAT lead from the alternator to the D+ and supply power to accessories and charge the battery. All of the terminal connections are external on the regulator using machined screws to fasten. I want to use the DF terminal on the old regulator to fasten the field wire from the alternator to the amp light wire. Can I use the old terminal? I checked with a multi meter and the terminal is grounded but will that matter for the field to amp light wiring? I know this is an old posting but really hope you respond to questions like this. Thanks, Michael
Does anyone gut the regulator box and connect as you described inside the cover?
I really like this series of videos but, sadly they are few and far beetween. It's like I'm back in school again but, this time around I don't mind it.
When converting from positive earth to negative earth the ammeter wiring will have to swapped around and the power to the coil will also have to be swapped around.
Hello there I am planning on converting my 49 ford to 12 volt but I am kind of stuck...:(
I would like to try and keep my gauges all stock what could I to do so? Thank you and on yoy DIY video I don't believe I have a warning light on mine just the amperage meter .. any information would sure help me build my project thanks
Geat video, thanks, spot on. Question: converting from positive ground to negative ground, online forums say "don't worry about the starter motor"- whatever that means. Surely, if one changes the polarity of the vehicle frame it will try to turn the starter motor the wrong way? Can anyone enlighten me on this? (my Vehicle = Fordson Major Tractor too old to have relays). Cheers :)
no - I've done 2 of these - it has no effect on the starter motor
Positive ground? Though he mentions positive ground and converting to negative ground, the last time I dealt with a positive ground vehicle was my 1931 Desoto. I've also heard of having to place a diode in line with the output wire to prevent battery discharge during times the vehicle is not running? Any truth to that?
I understand you were saying except at the end...Positive ground, negative ground. You said alternators run on a negative ground circuit, but the schematic shows a positive ground on the battery,,. or maybe I misunderstand what pos. neg. ground means?
LIKE
I've got a problem with this. All alternators I'm finding have 1 wire or 3 terminals not 2 as you're showing. I haven't found any alternators for sale with only 2 terminals. Do some alternators only have 2 terminals or do they all have either 1 or 3? On youtube explanations on replacing generators with alternators, some diagrams show terminal 1 being the field terminal but other diagrams show terminal 2 being the field. Which is it?
Love your videos! But the alternator for a 79 Midget 1500 comes with three connectors at the back, and I have no idea where does the other one goes, I assume one is ground, anyone know?
Do you have a video on how to wire an alternator to a windmill
We have sound! The 4 part series on adjusting the regulator lost sound
Actually the (rectifier) diode bank on that particular type of alternator has nine diodes not six, it has three main positive three negative and three exciter diodes to excite the warning light.
excellent - however - the third graphic with the NEW ALTERNATOR in situ - still shows the BATTERY as a POSITIVE to Earth -
Ok, I figured out why there might be some thumbs down:
The schematic drawings all show the battery having a positive "+" to ground and show the negative "-" as connected to the starter solenoid.
So the absolute clearest alternator explanation on RUclips has a fairly important but simple mistake that would require a re-shoot of at least the video portion with the corrected schematic drawings.
Once that is done, this video will be perfect!
I thought that it was just me who noticed the battery polarity.
Hi i have a Wolseley 1500 positive earth i would like to convert to negitive earth can you explain how to do this Thank you. John.
This video is excellent, but I have noticed one thing wrong with the last presentation slide in that, the battery is shown as positive earth and should now be negative on completion of the conversion ??
It is wrong
Can you tell me how to get my gas gauge to work on a 1953 Willy's Jeep after converting it to 12 volt everything else is good