Hi Carl. I would like to thank you for your very ineresting videos (specially on making Krenov style planes). I really enjoy your content cheers from Italy Alberto
I wanted lead shot for a dead-blow hammer I was making and found fishing weights to be really expensive to get in the quantities I needed for the project. After a lot of searching and shopping I finally settled on a scuba diving weight I found on eBay. They were about $5.00/lb for various sizes. I bought a 3 pounder for $15.00 which was way more than I needed.
I did a little searching for that on the web. Looks like split shot would work, but it’s relatively expensive. While searching I came across lead wire. It comes in different diameters and costs about $6-7 per pound. I assume you could wind it into spiral shapes and stack multiple pieces into holes drilled into the plane body. Do you think that would work?
SCENARIO: I inherited a N0. 6 fore plane from a dear old friend who passed away. It would be good for my new shooting board. If it were you, would you make a Kenov-style plane anyway? I'm a couple years older than you so I am int une with the advice that seniors provide. Thanks, in advance.
A #6 would work well. It's pretty heavy and has a relatively long toe. I used a #7 for years before getting a dedicated shooting plane. With that said, a bench plane is lighter than most shooting planes and more difficult to hang on to. I think you would be much happier with a plane designed for shooting. Plus, they look cool!
Thanks Carl. I have decided to go for it. My choice is slightly different from your design. The cheeks want to be walnut (the center blocks are maple, like yours), and I thought I might use a metal rod (maybe brass) for the pin. I would like to read your thoughts on my choices. I keep going back to your videos to get your valuable insights on woodworking, in general. (Sorry for the delay in my reply... I just got back from a trip out of town,)@@CarlStammerjohn
Walnut sides and a metal cross-pin will work fine. A metal cross-pin makes the build much quicker and easier. The only downside is aesthetic; functionally, the difference is minimal or non-existent. If you have brass, use that, 5/16" or 3/8" will work. The brass will look better than steel or aluminum.
Great tips, instruction and presentation!
Hi Carl. I would like to thank you for your very ineresting videos (specially on making Krenov style planes). I really enjoy your content
cheers from Italy
Alberto
Thanks for the kind words. Glad to hear you are enjoying the videos!
I wanted lead shot for a dead-blow hammer I was making and found fishing weights to be really expensive to get in the quantities I needed for the project. After a lot of searching and shopping I finally settled on a scuba diving weight I found on eBay. They were about $5.00/lb for various sizes. I bought a 3 pounder for $15.00 which was way more than I needed.
If you can't get leadshot you can use fish line lead instead. That should be easily available.
I did a little searching for that on the web. Looks like split shot would work, but it’s relatively expensive. While searching I came across lead wire. It comes in different diameters and costs about $6-7 per pound. I assume you could wind it into spiral shapes and stack multiple pieces into holes drilled into the plane body. Do you think that would work?
SCENARIO: I inherited a N0. 6 fore plane from a dear old friend who passed away. It would be good for my new shooting board. If it were you, would you make a Kenov-style plane anyway? I'm a couple years older than you so I am int une with the advice that seniors provide. Thanks, in advance.
A #6 would work well. It's pretty heavy and has a relatively long toe. I used a #7 for years before getting a dedicated shooting plane. With that said, a bench plane is lighter than most shooting planes and more difficult to hang on to. I think you would be much happier with a plane designed for shooting. Plus, they look cool!
Thanks Carl. I have decided to go for it. My choice is slightly different from your design. The cheeks want to be walnut (the center blocks are maple, like yours), and I thought I might use a metal rod (maybe brass) for the pin. I would like to read your thoughts on my choices. I keep going back to your videos to get your valuable insights on woodworking, in general. (Sorry for the delay in my reply... I just got back from a trip out of town,)@@CarlStammerjohn
Walnut sides and a metal cross-pin will work fine. A metal cross-pin makes the build much quicker and easier. The only downside is aesthetic; functionally, the difference is minimal or non-existent. If you have brass, use that, 5/16" or 3/8" will work. The brass will look better than steel or aluminum.