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you don't need to polish that, as long as the bearing didn't spin enough to remove material just use light emery cloth and make sure the high spots are knocked down.
I had a MG when I was in high school that I threw a rod bearing on. All my bearing caps and connecting rods were because my brgs did not spin the tabs kept the shells in place but they transferred a lot of Metal from the Shell to the surface of the crank shaft enough that I had to use various grits of emery cloth to remove the metal from the crank It seemed like I was under that car polishing that crank 3 or 4 hrs a day for a week it was A lot of work and I was grateful that my father was there to supervise the job Always needed a little bit more That when I really understood the meaning of the word Perseverance My dad was a buyer in the70’s and 80’s for a company that imported parts for foreign cars do the parts were easy to get and very inexpensive My car ran ok for a couple years after that I never reved it up when starting it and stopped driving it on every dirt road like it was a rallye car. I’m sure you will get a lot of miles out of it before it starts knocking again I hope you did a good job on cleaning all of the oil galleys in the crank and ran the engine enough to bring it up to temperature then drained the oil and changed the filter before driving it. Let us know how it went
I’m with you man I just got my king bearings last week. I may do this next year. I have an issue with chain slack grinding the timing cover rail. This is a brand new chain, guide trails and tensioner. I tried replacing the tensioner twice but I still get the rattle but only under acceleration- there’s no noise at idle. This all started when I replaced my head due to a burnt valve. I tried s new chain again and same result.
@@hoodmeister yes I did replace the plastic guide rails because the originals were splintered and broken. But just like the original timing cover the bottom guide rail (aluminum) is getting ground down by the chain and cannot understand why. everything is new (aftermarket-but new). The only thing I didnt replace was the crank sprocket because compared to the new one the teeth seemed very good with minimal wear, but the cam sprocket is new. I cant shake this problem.
@@ChrisNieves Maybe a bad tensioner, or blocked oil passage since the tensioner uses oil pressure to press on the rail. That's got to be frustrating. The plastic on one of my rails was completely gone, and it made the metal rail look so pristine that I didn't replace it. It was only later that I figured out the rail was supposed to have plastic on it, and I dropped the oil pan and found a mountain of plastic bits.
@@hoodmeister I wouldnt know where to start in which passage supplies the tensioner. i meant i went through 2 different timing covers cant imagine those pumps being bad. It all started when i replaced my head due to a hole in my exhaust valve. it is super frustrating i have 2 timing covers on the ready but reluctant to install them to let the chain saw off the guide rail again. And i cannot understand how my new chain is generating slack on the front non tensioner side.
What thickness head gasket did you use. If to thin it could put the head to close to the block and the tensioner won't have enough room to remove all the slack.🤔
Very good use of home products. You can also use a five grade of Emory cloth. It doesn't need to be a mirror finish, just a very good even smooth finish. If your bearing spins again.. you have a clearance or oiling problem. What did you set your tolerance?
@@ProjectMini I'm sure you are right. I once bought a 92 Cavalier Z24 with the 3.1liter V6 that had been run with a bad oil pump. I pulled the motor and bought a crank kit for it. New Crank shaft,rod bearings, and main bearings. Along with the oil pump I replaced the timing set, water pump, and all belts. I went this route because the cylinder walls were still beautiful. I got 2 years out of the car before selling it. Bought for $250 sold for $2800. This was several years ago. Don't know how feasible that would be with a mini motor.
@@ProjectMini I was wondering if your car worked because it's like 9 months.. I was thinking doing the same to my car and getting by for a while... I'm building K swap Engine for it... This is my 3rd engine..
![Cylinder Head Rebuild | Mini R53 S Rescue [Episode 3]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/NasScOt1Uhk/mqdefault.jpg)
- My Facebook groups -
Mini Cooper R53 Enthusiasts: facebook.com/groups/164990851647892/?ref=share
R56 Mini Cooper S enthusiasts: facebook.com/groups/729821991242039/?ref=share
Mini Cooper DIY: facebook.com/groups/518907605479579/?ref=share
Mini’s on Methanol: facebook.com/groups/1295780427517522/?ref=share
you don't need to polish that, as long as the bearing didn't spin enough to remove material just use light emery cloth and make sure the high spots are knocked down.
I had a MG when I was in high school that I threw a rod bearing on. All my bearing caps and connecting rods were because my brgs did not spin the tabs kept the shells in place but they transferred a lot of Metal from the
Shell to the surface of the crank shaft enough that I had to use various grits of emery cloth to remove the metal from the crank
It seemed like I was under that car polishing
that crank 3 or 4 hrs a day for a week it was
A lot of work and I was grateful that my father was there to supervise the job
Always needed a little bit more
That when I really understood the meaning of the word
Perseverance My dad was a buyer in the70’s and 80’s for a company that imported parts for
foreign cars do the parts were easy to get and very inexpensive My car ran ok for a couple years after that
I never reved it up when starting it and stopped driving it on every dirt road like it was a rallye car.
I’m sure you will get a lot of miles out of it before it starts knocking again I hope you did a good job on cleaning all of the oil galleys in the crank and ran the engine enough to bring it up to temperature then drained the oil and changed the filter before driving it.
Let us know how it went
I’m with you man I just got my king bearings last week. I may do this next year. I have an issue with chain slack grinding the timing cover rail. This is a brand new chain, guide trails and tensioner. I tried replacing the tensioner twice but I still get the rattle but only under acceleration- there’s no noise at idle. This all started when I replaced my head due to a burnt valve. I tried s new chain again and same result.
Did you replace the plastic guide rails for the chain? I didn't the first time and had your problem.
@@hoodmeister yes I did replace the plastic guide rails because the originals were splintered and broken. But just like the original timing cover the bottom guide rail (aluminum) is getting ground down by the chain and cannot understand why. everything is new (aftermarket-but new). The only thing I didnt replace was the crank sprocket because compared to the new one the teeth seemed very good with minimal wear, but the cam sprocket is new. I cant shake this problem.
@@ChrisNieves Maybe a bad tensioner, or blocked oil passage since the tensioner uses oil pressure to press on the rail. That's got to be frustrating. The plastic on one of my rails was completely gone, and it made the metal rail look so pristine that I didn't replace it. It was only later that I figured out the rail was supposed to have plastic on it, and I dropped the oil pan and found a mountain of plastic bits.
@@hoodmeister I wouldnt know where to start in which passage supplies the tensioner. i meant i went through 2 different timing covers cant imagine those pumps being bad. It all started when i replaced my head due to a hole in my exhaust valve.
it is super frustrating i have 2 timing covers on the ready but reluctant to install them to let the chain saw off the guide rail again. And i cannot understand how my new chain is generating slack on the front non tensioner side.
What thickness head gasket did you use. If to thin it could put the head to close to the block and the tensioner won't have enough room to remove all the slack.🤔
Very good use of home products. You can also use a five grade of Emory cloth. It doesn't need to be a mirror finish, just a very good even smooth finish. If your bearing spins again.. you have a clearance or oiling problem. What did you set your tolerance?
I think it'll last longer than many people would suspect. It's a scarry fix bit sometimes you do what you gotta do.
I think it will be ok for a while but I’ll need to replace the bearings Way more often
@@ProjectMini I'm sure you are right. I once bought a 92 Cavalier Z24 with the 3.1liter V6 that had been run with a bad oil pump. I pulled the motor and bought a crank kit for it. New Crank shaft,rod bearings, and main bearings. Along with the oil pump I replaced the timing set, water pump, and all belts. I went this route because the cylinder walls were still beautiful. I got 2 years out of the car before selling it. Bought for $250 sold for $2800. This was several years ago. Don't know how feasible that would be with a mini motor.
If I decide to replace the crank and rods I’ll also do forged pistons and arp studs. It would be good at that point
Hello, excellent job, what results did I get with the rod bearings that you installed in the Mini Cooper S? any problem?
What 12 point socket size you used for arp bolt head? Is the vehicle still on the road? Keep up the great work!
How long has it lasted?
Project mini Did you ever get the car running did it work?
I am in the same predicament.
Replacing just the bearings is a bandaid, it will hold you over until you can f fix it right though.
@@ProjectMini I was wondering if your car worked because it's like 9 months.. I was thinking doing the same to my car and getting by for a while... I'm building K swap Engine for it... This is my 3rd engine..
I guess it never worked out for you...
Great vid! How is the car feeling a year on?
Hey there , any updates on this? Car still running? How long did this fix lasted?
How has the engine held up since? And did you do anything to get metal out of the oil galleries/oil pump in the engine?
How long will it last: it depends on the tolerance
Good video!
Thank you! 🙏
Do you have to take the cylinder head off of can you just replace them from underneath by lowering the pan and fuel pump?
Hi, rod bearings only come in one size? I found on ebay from ACL something reinforced. Have you heard of that company?
How did you clean the oil gallery on your crankshaft?
How's the bearing replace holding man?
How long did it last pal gonna try it thanks it john from UK
I have difficult start mini Cooper s
Did u get standard size bearing?
For how long did this fix work?
any uodates?
I’m just curious did you just do standard bearings ?