Peugeot/Citroen (Ford, Volvo, Mazda) 1.6 HDi DV6 Cambelt Replacement Guide
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- Опубликовано: 19 май 2024
- This 2007 Peugeot 307 has 147,000 miles but no records to show when its timing belt was last changed.
The parts that will be fitted in this process
New timing belt and water pump kit £70
New Coolant £10
Crankshaft oil seal £10
Stretch Type Auxiliary Belt £15
Auxiliary Belt Idler Pulley £20
This car has the 1.6 HDi engine. It has seen use in a wide range of Peugeot and Citroen models.
It is also used by ford and some of its past subsidiaries as well as the BMW mini.
As far as difficulty goes this is actually quite an easy belt to change, being a 1.6 going into an engine bay that can accommodate a 2.0 there is lots of space available. The only annoyance is the stretch type auxiliary belt which will be covered later on.
0:00 Introduction
1:10 Removal of scuttle panel
2:06 Wheel arch liner removal
3:00 Stretch type auxiliary belt removal
3:26 Removal of power steering pump for improved visibility
5:35 Crankshaft pulley removal
5:48 Lower timing belt cover removal
8:07 Engine mount removal
8:28 Upper timing belt cover removal
10:04 Turning engine over to TDC and locking pins
13:52 Water pump removal
16:29 Crankshaft oil seal removal & replacement
18:10 Removal of idler and tensioner pulleys
19:20 New belt installation
20:57 Setting the belt tensioner
22:00 Removing the locking pins and turning engine over 10 times
22:52 Reinstallation of the timing belt covers
25:07 Reinstalling the engine mount
27:21 Stretch type auxiliary belt installation
28:42 Reinstalling PAS pump and washer bottle
29:34 Wheel arch liner installation & putting car on ground
30:20 Bleeding the coolant system
33:08 Reinstall the scuttle panel 
Авто/Мото
exceptional tutorial and has to be the best and most informative ive seen, all other timing belt tutorials i have seen dont cover the crankshaft seal replacement which should be done as a matter of course as is the water pump and tensioner and pulley and keep up the good work your a true professional.
Thanks for that Tony very glad to see you found it informative. Yes you could probably get away without changing the crankshaft seal but while in there it makes sense.
One of the best videos I have seen for a while. Very clear demonstration of step by step work.
Thanks for the comment, glad to see you found it useful
Brilliant! Your methodical and careful workmanship is a credit to you. The explanation of bleeding the cooling system was particularly useful. How about a Citroen C4 replacement clutch video? Thank you 🙏
Hi, thanks for the encouraging comment, really great to see this it makes the time taken to make these videos worth it.
Regarding the video suggestion i just video what i have in the shed and release videos when i have the time, this is not my day job.
Currently have a 407 automatic in for the usual 407 issues, then an Avantime V6 for a cam-belt change. Thats realistically it for this year.
I have a 406 2.0 hdi clutch change video, my berlingo 1.6 hdi is as close as it gets but not yet due a clutch for some time hopefully.
A great informative video, showing everything in great detail. thank you
The drawings for the locking pins are hugely appreciated. Great work
Thanks, glad they could be of help
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Help😂 I have a 2013 Citroen Dispatch 1.6hdi and cant see a location pin hole for the fuel pump😒 looks like a different pulley than that in your video, is they a special tool for this? Thanks in advance👍👍
@@leefurniss Hi there Lee,
You are watching the video here for the older 16v engine,
Here is the video for the later 8v unit, which should be very similar to your dispatches engine
Its the same set of pins used to lock it as this 16v engine, also like it the fuel pump on these engines are not timed in the same way the old XUD with its mechanical pump was. Therefore its not as cruical to have the pump sprocket in the exact same spot as the ECU controls when the injectors fire.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Thank you for the rapid reply, I think ive just found the video and can see where the pin sits. Much appreciated 👍
What a fantastic video, so much detail and information. Mine's a Ford Mondeo which uses the same engine I believe(DV6c) and so although not fully relevant, it was certainly good to watch you go through the job and get some idea of what's ahead for me. That fan belt tool though, for what it is and for what it does, £33 is a bit bloody expensive !
Excellent clear instructional video - congratulations - keep up the good work - a pleasure to watch.
Thanks for the comment
Well, this is a very informative and pedagogic video. You are truly gifted with skills about teaching 😁 Big thanks!
Hi there, thanks for the comment. Especially love when i learn a new word haha, genuinely had me looking pedagogic in the dictionary but the old saying about learning something new every day. Glad you found the video useful.
bravo! by far the best instructional video I've ever seen, I can now change the belt on my car without having any doubts of my capabilities after watching this. subscribed
Thanks for the comment, it is great to see that you found the video useful
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Bloody hell! Not only was this the most informative video on subject but diagrams, specs on the pins and where the bleed points are. Its saved me a bundle of time, much appreciated fella.
Thanks for the comment, really glad that you find the video useful.
Excellent video! Now I look forward to this job on the C4 cactus!
Thanks, the C4 cactus should be similar but it will probably have the 1.6 8v engine. I have a few cousins with cars powered by this engine, my own berlingo also. A good engine, if anything its slightly easier to work at than the 16v
Had problems getting the belt back on as there was too much slack i couldnt sort out, i can confirm the fuel pump on these do not need to be locked, pulled that fuel pump pin out and managed to tighten the slack and slip it over the tensioner. Other than that, most of it was plain sailing, (Citreon C5 picasso)
Thanks for the vid, helped a lot.
Definitely the best video instruction i have yet seen.. thank you so much for all the effort
Thanks for the comment
Probably one the best videos I’ve ever seen on RUclips well done thank you
Thank you very much for your kind words, the best encouragement is when people find the videos useful.
The best mechanic !
In total agreement with others here, this is the best in-depth video I e seen ever. Will be tackling my cars belt soon.
Thank you very much for the comment, best of luck with the timing belt change, let me know how it gets on.
Great video. Well done.
Bravo un excelente tutoriale,completo esplicite.grazie !!
Congratulations mate,you are the best one! !💪
Thanks for the comment
Absolutely brilliant and informative video, fhank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us.
Nothing but praise, fantastic in-depth step by step video.
Perhaps also the first to cover the stretch belt on the 1.6hdi, which I believe was fitted to 92bhp engines.
I wonder would it have been possible to fit the aux belt with the zip tie method?
Thank you for also covering on where to find the bleed points.
Excellent video it keep up.
Thanks, really great to get that sort of feedback, very glad to hear the video is useful.
With regards this Zip Tie method for the stretch belt i am not familiar with it. A mate was explaining something about using different sockets to roll the belt over the pulley but i still cant visualise how that would work.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV While not always possible depending on design, you can zip tie the belt on through the crankshaft pulley and rotate the engine to slip the rest of belt on, cut off the zip tie once done.
Travail impeccable. Merci boss.
Merci
Great video!
Thanks a lot.
I got hope again after seeing this video. 👍👍😁
Thanks for the comment, glad to see you find the video useful
Great video, at 13:49 it says hard to say if oil leaking in that area. Can you remember where all of the visible oil could be from as my engine looks the same and I'm trying to find the leak. Thanks in advance :)
Definitely gonna subscribe to your channel
When crankshaft and camshaft sprockets are alingned, the flywheel it is also aligned for inserting its locking pin?
Well done sir.
franchement t es trop fort t a demonter la moitie du moteur pour faire une courroie de distribution toi t es un bon !!! temps de travail multiplier par 2 pourquoi faire simple quand on peut faire compliquer
En réalité, aucun des moteurs n'a été démonté pour atteindre la ceinture.
Ce qui a été enlevé, ce sont quelques couvertures et c'est tout. Pas plus de 5 minutes passées pour accéder au moteur. Ce n'est pas vraiment particulièrement difficile ou compliqué et ce n'est pas quelque chose qui doit changer trop souvent. Il existe même des guides vidéo sur youtube montrant comment changer la ceinture 😜
These stretch belts are a nightmare - I did one of these and I was able to do it with some modified mole grips my dad had with some rubber fuel hose over the jaws holding the belt so it wouldn't get damaged. Took a few attempts but I managed to do it. My theory about these is on the assembly line they probably have a special jig you put on the flywheel after routing the belt which holds the belt while spinning the engine over. It probably saves 30-60 seconds on assembly at the factory - a conventionally tensioned belt would be more manpower intensive to install and tension. Saving time on assembly is what dictates engineering decisions on most car brands. PSA run their factories with a culture of ruthless efficiency.
Definitely a real farse of a thing, suppose though if this 07 car is still on its original belt its done well to last 10 years. PSA are in the clear. It seems though some of the newer cars went back to a spring loaded tensioner. It worked well on the old 406 just put a spanner on the tensioner push back, remove belt, and let off the spanner.
Thank you so much, a really excellent video - you just saved me a few hundred ££ - this is VERY similar to Berlingo B9 - but I get more space still :-) Also don't need to remove the wipers and scuttle.
Thanks for the comment, great to hear it helped you with your berlingo.
The berlingo is a fair bit easier to work around than the 308, i actually have a separate video covering the timing belt on the berlingo, although it is the newer 8v engine
ruclips.net/video/toTKvACZiDE/видео.html
Best video ever
Sorry if I mention this again, but I didn't find anyone else who noticed that you installed the new auxiliary belt differently!
In the beginning of the video is clearly visible that the auxiliary belt goes crank->idler->alternator->A/C ... but later where you show the installation of it, your track is crank->alternator->idler->A/C.
Is it possible that was the reason for your "Nightmare" - if the demand for length this way is to stretch it more (if the track this way is longer)? Otherwise I would agree that this "helps" because the belt jumps on its correct way directly - if one (like me) try to go the original way, it is much harder to fit it correctly - as the belt is off-track while jumping on the crankshaft pulley, the belt is slightly of-track on the idler as well. Even after its correct jump on-track over the crankshaft pulley, it will still be off-track on the idler - one needs to push it some how (i used a thin diameter screwdriver rotating it while traveling between the idler and the belt) so the belt will eventually seating good enough over the idler. It will adjust its way automatically at the next revolution of course.
Otherwise, very good tutorial - good hints and explanation! Appreciate it, sir!
Hi, not entirely sure i follow what you mean. The belt has followed the same route as it did originally there is not really any other way to install the belt otherwise it will be too long or short. A picture of it before removal is always very useful for refitting. The actual sequence of what pulley the belt goes over might help a bit although with these stretch belts they are generally just a bit of a faff when compared to one with a spring loaded tensioner.
very good instructional video,subscribed you channel
Thanks for subscribing
Great video, extremely helpful!
Isn't it possible to reinstall the aux belt using just a zip tie (and cut it afterwards) through the holes in the crankshaft pulley instead of using the "special tool"?
I am not sure to be honest, youtube and online in general had very little to go on with regards ways to reinstall this belt.
You have done grait job
Thanks for the comment
Bu güzel eğitici video için teşekkür ederim
thanks for the comment
Good video thank you
Thanks for the comment.
Awesome video! What brake rotors do you have on in this video?
Hi there
Thanks for the comment
Not too sure about the brake disks what brand they are, just whatever my local motor factors have in stock. Mintex or Ferodo are boxes i recall seeing but i honestly cant remember what i put on this car. Stick to a reputable brand.
Does the new crank seal need lubrication to install or just dry? Was it brake cleaner you used to clean the crankshaft before refitting the new seal?
I cleaned the area up with brake cleaner yes, the seal can be installed with a small smear of fresh engine oil to help it slide on
I thought about doing this myself, but now that I've seen I'm like "Hell nah"
Is there chance of belt slipping and affecting timing when u remove the crankshaft pulley bolt. If u were only replacing the crankshaft pulley.
Here in this instance no, the crankshaft was essentially locked twice the pin on the crankshaft pulley and also the pin that went through the flywheel. Even when the crankshaft pulley was removed the pin holding the flywheel was still firmly holding the crankshaft in its TDC position.
Thanks 👍
Thank you for an excellent video which is very helpful as I intend to change my timing belt soon. There is one thing I am uncertain about - when you were tightening the tensioner up you kept the marker level with the slot by use of the Allen key, but as you tightened the bolt the marker seemed to move upwards so that it was no longer in line with the slot, despite you holding the tensioner with the Allen key. Is that what is supposed to happen, or is the marker supposed to stay level with the slot AFTER the bolt has been tightened. (It may just be an optical illusion because your camera is looking from below rather than being level with the tensioner) Many thanks again ;-)
The marker will move a wee bit with the tightening of the bolt, you can hold it so much with the allen key but it will inevitably move as the bolt gets tightened.
There is a bit of a knack to it, generally just go beyond it a bit or a bit before where it lines up and then tighten the bolt, the arrow will then move the small amount as the bolt gets tightened. It can take a few goes more then i have edited it into this video or with doing enough of these you know exactly where to hold it at for the arrow to be pointing dead centre when the bolt is tightened.
Hopefully that helps to explain it.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Yes,. many thanks for your super-quick reply. I was a Citroen mechanic for many years back in the day but I haven't done one of these before. Cheers again.
@@johnhoward7252
Great to hear from you, what era of citroen was it you worked on?
Love the old hydropneumatic stuff but getting harder to find nowadays, although ebay has had a few tempting CX's appear recently.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV I bought my first car in 1976 when I was twenty-one and that was a 1955 Light 15. I drove it home from Wales with a blowing exhaust and only when I repaired that could I hear the big ends knocking. So it was in at the deep end for me with an engine rebuild! Then I started acquiring other Citroens and a hobby soon turned into a business. I ran my own garage in Bradford for ten years and then moved a couple of times, ending up working from home into the 2000's. I have owned and worked on just about everything, from 2CV's, Dyanes, Amis, Gs's, BX's, SM's, Ds's, CX,s, Tractions, Visas, plus a few more that I can't remember. I've been a driving instructor for about twelve years and the DS3 is my driving school car. It's a great car for the job but I prefer driving my 2003 C5 Estate for my own use - you can't beat hydropneumatic suspension when compared with the poxy coil springs that the DS3 and just about everything else on the road has. Back in the day cars were worth very little but if I had all the cars now that I used to have I'd be minted! I just wish that modern cars didn't have all the electronic crap on them that they didn't used to have - when life was simpler! Oh, and I'm currently doing a complete restoration of a 1949 11BL (Traction Avant) in my garage. I'm looking forward to driving it one day.
Excellent ✨✨✨👍🏼
Thank you! Cheers!
Would you say you can use the crank locking tool to tighten the crank bolt? ie, put the tool in, then tighten to the specs?
That is how it can be done and i have provided the torque specs in the subtitles for anyone wanting them.
However i did not do it that way, my torque wrench does not go up to the figure required.
I put thread locking compound on the bolt, start the threads by hand and then finish with a few thuds of the impact wrench.
Not a lot just enough to snug the bolt, the thread locking compound holds the bolt the rest of the way.
Not how the book shows it but i have done it this way on every HDi engine i have worked on and never had any issues.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV
Ah I see, Thank you.
Reason I asked is I actually go through a mechanic education were basically everything is to be done by the book, but the workshop instructions are very vauge where to put the crankshaft locking and if to use it when tightening :D
So i really appreciate your video and the time you've taken to do it. and the tool dimentions are also a topping of the icecream, cause the tools over here is a well 50+€ to buy locally or from the internet ( stupid import taxes , thanks sweden ) i figured doing the tools using a rod stock on a lathe would work perfectly :D
Hi, my mechanic replaced the timing kit including water pump and service belt but I have had battery problems for about 3 days since I picked up the car. In practice, I replaced the battery in July of this year and the car started at the first try but for 3 days the battery warning light on the dashboard has turned on and goes out when switched on (before instead it went out after a few seconds from insertion of the key), but the problem is that it does not start at the first try and it is Chinese the battery did not make it. With the car in motion I also tried to accelerate to see if there was an increase in brightness with the lights on, but everything is regular. Could there be some dispersion? Where could this problem come from? I'm afraid to stay on foot because the other night after 3 hours that the car was parked outside it almost didn't start.
Hi there
If a timing belt has been done, the alternator belt will have come off, not sure if it got moved in the process though, should just have been a case of removing that belt and slipping it back on.
The battery light is ok to be on before the engine starts, however if it stays on when you have started the car then there is a problem. Might be worth taking the car to a motor factors, most have battery/alternator analysers to see what sort of results you get from it.
Also worth asking is your car definitely equipped with this 1.6 16v HDi engine, its not a later 8v engine possibly fitted with stop start?
Help needed! My engine turns a little bit and then doesn't turn when turning the crank from the bolt.
Hi there, are you entirely sure the belt is correctly timed?
hello I'm contacting you from Italy, I do all the maintenance on my Peugeot and I get by in the mechanics but I have a problem. Every day I find a drop of oil on the floor in the garage, I can't figure out where it's leaking from. they are certainly vapors because the level does not change. Is this a common problem? What can I check? A thousand thanks
Hi there, you will need the car up on a lift to inspect under the car and try to determine where the oil is coming from. Not something i can answer in the comments as there is potentially many places on an engine where oil can leak from. It depends on the general area its leaking from. The crankshaft oil seals, valve cover seal, or a rusty sump are some of the more prominent leak areas.
You tightened it really on Nm or will it be enough with the hand?
What bolt are you referring to?
Generally id do them by hand as you get a feel for how tight a bolt should be over time, although the proper way is to use the torque wrench.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Soon I will be replacing the timing belt in my Citroen, but I do not have a torque wrench. Hence my question is it possible to hand. mainly I mean the crankshaft
@@muzyk1236
If you are new to car repair i would recommend the use of a torque wrench.
Removing the crankshaft pulley bolt will be the most challenging thing due to its tightness, an impact wrench will be required. I never had much luck with the other techniques
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Thank you very much for the answer and advice. I wish you a lot of successful car repairs!
When should the cam belts be replaced on this type of engine. Agree with all positive comments. Thanks for sharing.
Hi, a bit of information i do not have to hand at the moment but i think from memory and you should confirm it with some googling that it is 10 years or 100k miles. At least that is on the 1.6 8v in my berlingo, cant remember exactly if the older 16v was different.
Most 307s now if you have no record of the belt being changed will be due on age.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Had it done once and car now at 154,000. Am going to check with garage for a read out. Thanks for coming back on that one. For the 1.6 hdi always change oil no later than 12,000 miles. Otherwise the carbon/ gunk build up will block oil feeds causing engine destruction.
@@CASHSEC A very wise bit of advice, the life of the 1.6 is very much extended by changing the oil at more regular intervals. If they have this done they can cover just as many miles as the XUD or the DW10 2.0 hdi can.
Does it matter where the fuel pump is, as it's a common rail pump it's not mechanically timed?????????
A commendable use of the question mark.
No the fuel pump position does not matter, the ECU controls the firing of the injectors, the old XUD engines were the last ones that needed timed any HDI is common rail. (not 100% sure about the DW8 i think its common rail but just without a turbo)
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Many thanks for the reply, didn't expect one hence the Question marks. Cheers
👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾
This engine is also commandatory to change oil pump in the same mileage than timing belt and water pump
No the oil pump does not need to be changed it will last a very long time, it is not a part that is easy to change
@@peugeotCitroen2CV this is very important because these parts are goes very wear and tear and it's really important because if you lost all oil you will burn the engine. Would you imagine how it could be with 240k. Km...?????
@@juanpeleteiro The oil pumps in these engines will go well beyond 240k km, thats only 150k miles.
Nothing to these engines if they are serviced, seen examples at 300k with original components.
Never heard of a PSA diesel engine that periodically needs its oil pump changed, it is not really a consumable like the water pump is.
On the old 16v 1.6 engine Garret would recommend that the oil pump was changed if the turbo was being replaced but that was required on poorly serviced vehicles suffering from sludged up oil due to the excessively long service intervals and incorrect oil being used, issues that plagued early 16v versions of the DV6.
In that instance the advice was to remove the sump and fully clean out the engine. However it is not in the remit of normal servicing.
www.turbodynamics.co.uk/technical/understanding-turbochargers/critical-instructions-psa-16-hdi-turbochargers/
Tengo un citroen lounge hdi 2016
Nice car
And so turbocharger needs replacement
Kanalımda mazda videoları var efsane araçlardır 90 lı yıllardaki teknolojileri şimdiyi kıskandırır nitelikte
Which are 10 yrs. Or 240k km
Whatever one comes first
You can cover more than 240k km in under 19 years, or do less than 10k km in 10 years whatever one happens first
any manufacturer does not recommend putting adhesive or silicone on the water pump, because it can enter the system and can destroy the water pump or clog the cooling circuit ...
A small amount on the mating surface helps it seal, huge globs of the stuff will cause issuses but not a small bead
That wheel is not coming off again the way he over tightened it with a milwaukee impact gun.
Been on and off a few times since, use this gun on any cars i work on. Had to change the odd tyre away from the shed and the wheel brace in the boot has undone the bolts with ease. The milwaukee impact wrenches are without a doubt powerful and could do damage but there is a fair degree of control.
took youtube long enough to process that video...
fila1445
It possibly did haha, it was about 5Gb
3;26 what for ????
3:26 is there to explain why i am moving the power steering pump out of the road to give a clearer view for the camera to see the work being carried out.
Peugeot. 3008
The 3008 will have had this 16v engine but also the later models would have had the 1.6 8v, although the 8v is a bit easier to work on.
If not oil pump brake down, splits all oil and engine will broken down!!!
ce sont des operations inutiles tout simplement enmecanique il faut etre pragmatique
Les couvercles doivent être retirés en raison de la conception de la cabine avant de la 307, alors que le même moteur installé dans une 407, Berlingo ou Citroen C5 ne nécessitera pas le retrait de ces couvercles.
Cependant, le style de la voiture a dicté la nécessité du panneau de scuttle conçu tel quel. Je ne le comprends pas non plus, après la fantastique 306, ils ont produit ce design plutôt peu attrayant.
Cependant, je ne dirais pas d'éviter un 307 car tous les 7 ans, vous devrez peut-être passer 10 minutes supplémentaires à retirer quelques couvertures, c'est simplement un inconvénient extrêmement mineur. C'est une voiture assez confortable et économique que ces jours-ci peuvent être achetée à bas prix, pour autant que je connaisse quelqu'un que je connais personnellement avec eux, elles ne causent que très peu de problèmes et il semble facile de travailler.
Ils auraient cependant pu choisir des matériaux de qualité légèrement supérieure pour le panneau de grille de pare-brise, en considérant qu'il doit se détacher pour des travaux d'entretien, et que l'isolation phonique n'a pas été très bien pensée.
16:39 It doesn't look like the oil is flowing around the guffer, but from above around the damper.
At that point in the video 16:39 the crankshaft oil seal is remove.
What is a guffer and where is the damper?