I installed a few nutplates when I was in the Air Force from 69 till 74. And a few million Rivets. I was Air Frame from McDonnell Aircraft 67 to 69, prior to my Air Force Daze.... so I was privileged to drive some then also. Still have my Cleco pliers and safety wire pliers from those good ole days.
Well, that's interesting! I'm dabbling in sheet metal, thinking about automotive work when I came across this video. The tools don't look cheap, but neither do the results. Looks like a very strong fastened connection point on sheet metal, a lot to learn!
Assuming you have the correct size screw for the nutplate, it's normal to only be able to thread it in only a small amount by hand because the nut on the nutplate is not entirely round. This is by design in order to keep the screw or bolt from backing out by "squeezing" it. Do not run a tap through the nutplate to reduce this friction as that will obviate its holding function.
@@KitplanesMagazine I have not installed the nutplanes yet because I wanted to know why it was doing this. I purchased the the screw and nut plate together from spruce. So if I just keep screwing it in when it gets tight, it will go past that sticking point or do I need shorter screws? They are both 6-32. And please inform me do I need the no8 nut plate jig or 10? because you used the no10 drill you said, but the no8 jig.
@@jeremykemp3782 Use the jig specified for the screw size: www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/pndrilljig.php?clickkey=30568. Follow proper fastening techniques (at least three threads visible) and use the screw length that is appropriate for your application. As the nutplate starts gripping the screw, it will require more force to turn and remain that way until the screw is all the way in, so use a good, clean scredriver tip to avoid stripping the head slots.
@@ctrtacoma02 where I can get or buy it is from a brand in Mexico it is very difficult to get tools for aviation I have had to buy a tool online could you help me
I tried that on the Van's practice kit, but the dimple die kept hitting the male part of the nutplate, and I couldn't get a good squeeze. How did you get around that problem?
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I installed a few nutplates when I was in the Air Force from 69 till 74. And a few million Rivets. I was Air Frame from McDonnell Aircraft 67 to 69, prior to my Air Force Daze.... so I was privileged to drive some then also. Still have my Cleco pliers and safety wire pliers from those good ole days.
Как я рад что есть такая сша значит мы не победимы привет от слесар сборщика летательных аппаратов с50 летнем стажем
Hi I am a man fr9m Nottingham NG3 2NA try fix a window on a boat which is curved at ends , I got no money but love a challenge
Nice examples and good narration.
Well, that's interesting! I'm dabbling in sheet metal, thinking about automotive work when I came across this video. The tools don't look cheap, but neither do the results. Looks like a very strong fastened connection point on sheet metal, a lot to learn!
Awesome! Gotta find some time and build a plane!
Excellent demo! Love this stuff.
I purchased some of these to put an access panel on my kitfox. But the screws only go into the nut plate a few millimetres before stopping. why?
Assuming you have the correct size screw for the nutplate, it's normal to only be able to thread it in only a small amount by hand because the nut on the nutplate is not entirely round. This is by design in order to keep the screw or bolt from backing out by "squeezing" it. Do not run a tap through the nutplate to reduce this friction as that will obviate its holding function.
@@KitplanesMagazine I have not installed the nutplanes yet because I wanted to know why it was doing this. I purchased the the screw and nut plate together from spruce. So if I just keep screwing it in when it gets tight, it will go past that sticking point or do I need shorter screws? They are both 6-32. And please inform me do I need the no8 nut plate jig or 10? because you used the no10 drill you said, but the no8 jig.
@@jeremykemp3782 Use the jig specified for the screw size: www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/pndrilljig.php?clickkey=30568.
Follow proper fastening techniques (at least three threads visible) and use the screw length that is appropriate for your application. As the nutplate starts gripping the screw, it will require more force to turn and remain that way until the screw is all the way in, so use a good, clean scredriver tip to avoid stripping the head slots.
I not got work shopping tools, I just leaning , I want just basic starting
Looked for them but it looks like they are called nut plate drill jigs on aircraft spruce.
where I can get or buy it is from a brand in Mexico it is very difficult to get tools for aviation I have had to buy a tool online could you help me
Hello, excuse me, what is the name of the tool you use to countersink or what brand is it, I am interested in it for my work
Countersink cage
@@ctrtacoma02 where I can get or buy it is from a brand in Mexico it is very difficult to get tools for aviation I have had to buy a tool online could you help me
Good 👍
Who makes the deburring tool and can you stainless bolts with the aluminum?
It's an Avery tool, available here: www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/speeddeb.php?clickkey=9772
What is that clamping vise called on your bench please.
That's a 6-inch mill vise. They're widely available, even at some big-box home improvement stores.
Great simple tutorial Paul, but could help notice your lathe chuck key placement? Nooooo! :)
Did not know they made a blind debur tool
Your camera should be closer.to.the work so we can see what you are doing.
I think this is the only one video that shows an engineer who work without safety gear😢
I prefer to dimple when it’s thin, and then dimple the nutplate.
I tried that on the Van's practice kit, but the dimple die kept hitting the male part of the nutplate, and I couldn't get a good squeeze. How did you get around that problem?
@@vsavatarI filed the die so it doesn’t hit the male part of the nutplate.