Never heard of those rivets - they're much neater. I like the tip re. the little bit of hose on the drill bit in case of punch through - so obvious, yet new to me. Most, though, I like they way you're not wearing gloves, except for the segment @ 1:20, where you're in gloves but there's blood on the right hand piece of aluminium! Been there, done that.
Starting with a smaller pilot bit and stepping up usually results in a more precise hole with less chatter. Going straight to the final size in thinner sheets can result in a more triangular hole. Step bits do a great job of cutting very round holes in thin sheets, but you typically don't find step bits in very small sizes.
Yes, but it comes at a cost of the time it takes to dimple each hole on each sheet before assembly. It greatly increases the amount of time it takes to build the plane and depending on the overall design (my plane isn't a very fast design), won't increase the speed to a noticeable degree.
What about using AL rivets in regular mild steel sheet metal? Is that a bad idea? will we get galvanic corrosion? Are SS rivets the better choice for this application ? I'm specifically referencing automotive application here but I'd think it'd apply to any mild steel sheet metal connection. I've only seen the two choices. I've not seen a mild steel pop rivet. The reason I ask is because generally if you grab a box at a hardware store they are generally AL. You need to go out of your way to find SS. I assume this is because AL is softer, easier to deform and cheaper. Is there some magic I'm unaware of that makes these not cause galvanic when used on steel sheet ?
Corrosion can be a problem with any kind stacked sheet seam, even in aluminum. In aircraft, it's very common to apply primer or other corrosion protection (after deburring but before riveting) between the sheets at the seam. The seam is the location most likely to hold moisture. Since the holes are drilled when the corrosion protection is applied, you are applying it inside the holes also. I used self etching primer, but there are some other products available also. In a perfect world, yes, stainless rivets would be great, but at a substantial weight penalty depending on the size of the project.
That is a generic deburring tool, comes in a 3 pack from Harbor Freight. You can also use a much larger drill bit by hand, which is the safer way to do it when starting out. You can deburr too deep..
@@ozarkgarage Oh I'm aware. I typically do it by hand with a traditional tool (not a drillbit), but my hand gets sore. I just hadn't ever seen a power deburring tool I liked until I saw your video!
@@mkosmo A cheap electric screwdriver is a lifesaver for deburring. The cheap rechargeable one from Harbor Freight is slow speed only, which can be a good thing. I also have a variable speed Dewalt, which is much faster. Both are lightweight and handy and much more controllable than a drill.
I'm a retired Structural Maintenance Tech from the Air Force and a lot of this is old news to me. The Avex rivets are new and impress me. Just wish I knew about these last week. My order for 1500 aluminum 4-3 rivets with steel mandrels arrived Thursday. Dang it!!
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This is some riveting content...
Glad it held your attention...
Couple of informational jewels in here. Cleco sizes and a rivet FAN. Never knew. Thanks.
Never heard of those rivets - they're much neater.
I like the tip re. the little bit of hose on the drill bit in case of punch through - so obvious, yet new to me.
Most, though, I like they way you're not wearing gloves, except for the segment @ 1:20, where you're in gloves but there's blood on the right hand piece of aluminium! Been there, done that.
Why not just drill the final size hole one time and done? Seems lots of work for no benefit.
Yeah my thought also since all the deburring is a task anyway.
Starting with a smaller pilot bit and stepping up usually results in a more precise hole with less chatter. Going straight to the final size in thinner sheets can result in a more triangular hole. Step bits do a great job of cutting very round holes in thin sheets, but you typically don't find step bits in very small sizes.
@@ozarkgarage The right Feed Speed and rotational speed suitable for a sharp drill .. and you have never "triangular" holes.. ask every CNC ;)
First time I have heard of cleco. Thanks!
Aren't countersunk or flush rivets common for external surfaces for aircraft? Smoother surface for aerodynamics?
Yes, but it comes at a cost of the time it takes to dimple each hole on each sheet before assembly. It greatly increases the amount of time it takes to build the plane and depending on the overall design (my plane isn't a very fast design), won't increase the speed to a noticeable degree.
What about using AL rivets in regular mild steel sheet metal?
Is that a bad idea?
will we get galvanic corrosion?
Are SS rivets the better choice for this application ?
I'm specifically referencing automotive application here but I'd think it'd apply to any mild steel sheet metal connection.
I've only seen the two choices. I've not seen a mild steel pop rivet.
The reason I ask is because generally if you grab a box at a hardware store they are generally AL. You need to go out of your way to find SS. I assume this is because AL is softer, easier to deform and cheaper. Is there some magic I'm unaware of that makes these not cause galvanic when used on steel sheet ?
Corrosion can be a problem with any kind stacked sheet seam, even in aluminum. In aircraft, it's very common to apply primer or other corrosion protection (after deburring but before riveting) between the sheets at the seam. The seam is the location most likely to hold moisture. Since the holes are drilled when the corrosion protection is applied, you are applying it inside the holes also. I used self etching primer, but there are some other products available also. In a perfect world, yes, stainless rivets would be great, but at a substantial weight penalty depending on the size of the project.
Can you provide the link for the rivets?
www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/avexblindriv.php
What bit is that you're using to deburr?
That is a generic deburring tool, comes in a 3 pack from Harbor Freight. You can also use a much larger drill bit by hand, which is the safer way to do it when starting out. You can deburr too deep..
@@ozarkgarage Oh I'm aware. I typically do it by hand with a traditional tool (not a drillbit), but my hand gets sore. I just hadn't ever seen a power deburring tool I liked until I saw your video!
@@mkosmo A cheap electric screwdriver is a lifesaver for deburring. The cheap rechargeable one from Harbor Freight is slow speed only, which can be a good thing. I also have a variable speed Dewalt, which is much faster. Both are lightweight and handy and much more controllable than a drill.
So.... this is a 7 minute ad for a particular brand of rivets.....
How much more do they cost? A lot? I think so.
Avex rivets. The price is comparable to aluminum pop rivets with a steel mandrel, maybe a tad more. 1000 for around 50$
May be an add, but now I have more useless knowledge that I did not before. So if anyone asks about rivets, I can add something to the conversation.
I'm a retired Structural Maintenance Tech from the Air Force and a lot of this is old news to me. The Avex rivets are new and impress me. Just wish I knew about these last week. My order for 1500 aluminum 4-3 rivets with steel mandrels arrived Thursday. Dang it!!
First!!!!