Many things can cause stab rattle. Sometimes the stab housing itself is off. Sometimes its the space bar being warped or not quite symmetrical. Sometimes, when you are putting the wire into the stab housing, you can damage the plastic and cause space where it shouldn't be. Tuning stabs is one of the most frustrating but important aspects of getting your board to function properly.
Thank you! Installed TX stabs for the first time (upgrading from Durock V2) and thank god I watched your vid before I did. Applying the grease on the house instead on the wires saves me a lot of time. Another tip I find useful: before start lubing anything, clip the wires in and out of the housing 3 times to loosen up the plastic a lil bit. This makes it easier to clip in the wires later.
Just want to add a tip on filling a syring with krytox, you can apply some to a bruch and put it in the other end of the syring and continue applying it like that.
3:59 Uhh yea don't do that. That's how you can potentially break the 2 little side extrusions if the tool slips (I've done it myself). Instead just simply use the grabby end of the tweezers to squeeze the stem that goes into the PCB and simply push the housing down very easily.
I've used 20 sets of tx stabs and haven't had an issue. If the clips broke they more than likely weren't dead center in the hole. I could see them breaking if one side was partly still on the pcb and bends/snaps when you press down.
I have quite a lot of boards, so not all of them make it into rotation. But in general I've only had to slightly touch up a couple of them over the last year.
@@samwads.Ah ok. I've not had much success with stabs across various brands and boards. Across a Tofu65, Space65r3, Link65... I've had issues with ticking. I've used Durock v2's (with 205g0, Holee mod, epsimod, XHT-BDZ), Equalz C3 v3's (holee, epsi, 205g0, BDZ) and now I've been trying to get Owlabs v2's working with just 205g0 on the housings and BDZ. I've lubed them until they've got no more room in them for lube and no matter what I have done, they usually end up ticking because I game with the boards. The left shift and spacebar get abused. So this can take only a few days at best. I only have two sets of caps right now, PBT Notion and GMK Mecha-01 and on my main board with the Owlabs v2's I've gotten better results buuuut I typically seem to still need to relube lightly every so often. I've been holding off on buying TX stabs because I am stubborn but everyone else makes them seem like they are so easy to tune. Sorry for the word vomit, I'm just very frustrated with my experience with various stabs over the past 2-3 years that i've been doing this. I feel like it's me that can't do it right so idk.
Class65 is actually one of my favorites. Typing feel is soft and very comfortable for long hours and the sound is quite creamy. The leaf spring works quite well. The relief cuts in the middle are pointless tho.
I was quite surprised with the wires on the screw in version. They're pretty good. I will be buying more. Can't go wrong with either. But avoid long pole stabs.
@@winebartender66531mm extra is way too long for stabs. Bottoming out on the stab not only sounds terrible but feels terrible, in my opinion. Even with 3.1mm travel green jackets, I did not like them.
did you ever wire balance or just lube? only wire balanced the spacebar wire but i'm getting ticking on a 2u - even adding some lube to the end doesn't do much even if i completely fill it with lube (doesn't even feel sluggish, which seems weird to me given how much lube is in there) and from what i see, it's unbalanced since one side is raised more and doesn't tick
I didn't balance the wires, even on spacebar. It could be a few things. Double check that the housing is completely seated into the pcb. If it's raised off the pcb by a little bit it will tick. Also make sure the keycap is fully and equally pressed into the stems. A warped keycap will cause an imbalance. It's also possible there's too much lube as crazy as that sounds. Last resort, I would clean that one stab and redo it if you haven't already.
@@samwads. thanks, might do it some day just not really looking to clean it out now - it was ticking even before i added the extra lube and usually when i add more lube it ends up feeling sluggish (on other boards i've built) which wasn't the result that i had - tested another keycap as well and have tried to make sure it was flush on the pcb as well - guess i may just have to clean it up whenever i do open up the board one day and just wire balance as a bonus - have you removed the stoppers before and if so was it easy? haven't tried and don't want to send them flying when i do disassemble also, genuine question since you're not the first person i've seen say that - how does too much lube cause ticking?
just tried this on my spacebar and for the first couple seconds I felt like had success (after multiple tries and on my second set) but then it started to tick again just like it had done before:( I noticed that when my stab is in the pcb the wire is kinda bending abit like a rainbow, so I'm guessing that I need to wire balance.
@@F13Pty yeah maybe you need to wire balance it is a really advanced option though you could easily mess it up. I am not sure because that lubing method should eliminate all rattle. Maybe add more lube with a syringe krytox205g0 or dielectric grease. You can even add krytox xht-bdz
@@cookie150 tx stabs wires are not as stright as you think, i brought 3 sets so far and 2/ 4 of the 2u wires always need balancing, sometimes even holee mod.
The way you're shoving these into the PCB with brute force is dangerously bad advice! Please don't do it this way. Just gently push the clip-in stem to alignment, don't force it straight downwards.
I am not forcing them in by the way. I am firmly pressing down. If you watch, there was a moment where I realized it wasn't lined up and stopped to adjust. If I use my fingers to put these in on this PCB, they still pop in as loud and as hard as they do here.
Many things can cause stab rattle. Sometimes the stab housing itself is off. Sometimes its the space bar being warped or not quite symmetrical. Sometimes, when you are putting the wire into the stab housing, you can damage the plastic and cause space where it shouldn't be. Tuning stabs is one of the most frustrating but important aspects of getting your board to function properly.
Thank you! Installed TX stabs for the first time (upgrading from Durock V2) and thank god I watched your vid before I did. Applying the grease on the house instead on the wires saves me a lot of time.
Another tip I find useful: before start lubing anything, clip the wires in and out of the housing 3 times to loosen up the plastic a lil bit. This makes it easier to clip in the wires later.
Just want to add a tip on filling a syring with krytox, you can apply some to a bruch and put it in the other end of the syring and continue applying it like that.
3:59 Uhh yea don't do that. That's how you can potentially break the 2 little side extrusions if the tool slips (I've done it myself). Instead just simply use the grabby end of the tweezers to squeeze the stem that goes into the PCB and simply push the housing down very easily.
I've used 20 sets of tx stabs and haven't had an issue.
If the clips broke they more than likely weren't dead center in the hole. I could see them breaking if one side was partly still on the pcb and bends/snaps when you press down.
or just snap it in with a finger
@@Shikitera some PCBs are very tight. I find this much easier.
No one has to do it my way, but I will continue to do so.
5:02 lmao. Ty for the tut bro
yo thanks for the tutorial. appriciate it
I know this video is old, but I wanted to ask if you ever had to relube them after this and if so, how long did it take?
I have quite a lot of boards, so not all of them make it into rotation. But in general I've only had to slightly touch up a couple of them over the last year.
@@samwads.Ah ok. I've not had much success with stabs across various brands and boards. Across a Tofu65, Space65r3, Link65... I've had issues with ticking. I've used Durock v2's (with 205g0, Holee mod, epsimod, XHT-BDZ), Equalz C3 v3's (holee, epsi, 205g0, BDZ) and now I've been trying to get Owlabs v2's working with just 205g0 on the housings and BDZ. I've lubed them until they've got no more room in them for lube and no matter what I have done, they usually end up ticking because I game with the boards. The left shift and spacebar get abused. So this can take only a few days at best. I only have two sets of caps right now, PBT Notion and GMK Mecha-01 and on my main board with the Owlabs v2's I've gotten better results buuuut I typically seem to still need to relube lightly every so often. I've been holding off on buying TX stabs because I am stubborn but everyone else makes them seem like they are so easy to tune. Sorry for the word vomit, I'm just very frustrated with my experience with various stabs over the past 2-3 years that i've been doing this. I feel like it's me that can't do it right so idk.
At the start of the video with the brush was that dielectric grease or 205g0?
205g0
@@samwads.I’m curious though, why do you brush 205g0 there if you’re gonna put dielectric grease in?
that pcb scares me because of the amount of tryhard 'innovation' its going for
Class65 is actually one of my favorites. Typing feel is soft and very comfortable for long hours and the sound is quite creamy.
The leaf spring works quite well.
The relief cuts in the middle are pointless tho.
One of my sets came with a really bad wire apparently, because hours after tuning it's rattling again. My first set is fantastic so far though
bruh tht pcb looks like its guna be a trampoline build
Would you recommend these over the TX AP screw-ins?
I was quite surprised with the wires on the screw in version. They're pretty good.
I will be buying more.
Can't go wrong with either. But avoid long pole stabs.
@@samwads. Would you say the AP screw-ins are superior?
@@HeK. From the two sets I've used, yes.
The screws are unnecessarily long to lol
@@samwads.Curious why you say avoid long pole stabs
@@winebartender66531mm extra is way too long for stabs. Bottoming out on the stab not only sounds terrible but feels terrible, in my opinion.
Even with 3.1mm travel green jackets, I did not like them.
did you ever wire balance or just lube? only wire balanced the spacebar wire but i'm getting ticking on a 2u - even adding some lube to the end doesn't do much even if i completely fill it with lube (doesn't even feel sluggish, which seems weird to me given how much lube is in there) and from what i see, it's unbalanced since one side is raised more and doesn't tick
I didn't balance the wires, even on spacebar.
It could be a few things.
Double check that the housing is completely seated into the pcb. If it's raised off the pcb by a little bit it will tick.
Also make sure the keycap is fully and equally pressed into the stems. A warped keycap will cause an imbalance.
It's also possible there's too much lube as crazy as that sounds. Last resort, I would clean that one stab and redo it if you haven't already.
@@samwads. thanks, might do it some day just not really looking to clean it out now - it was ticking even before i added the extra lube and usually when i add more lube it ends up feeling sluggish (on other boards i've built) which wasn't the result that i had - tested another keycap as well and have tried to make sure it was flush on the pcb as well - guess i may just have to clean it up whenever i do open up the board one day and just wire balance as a bonus - have you removed the stoppers before and if so was it easy? haven't tried and don't want to send them flying when i do disassemble
also, genuine question since you're not the first person i've seen say that - how does too much lube cause ticking?
just tried this on my spacebar and for the first couple seconds I felt like had success (after multiple tries and on my second set) but then it started to tick again just like it had done before:( I noticed that when my stab is in the pcb the wire is kinda bending abit like a rainbow, so I'm guessing that I need to wire balance.
No you do not need to wire balance. Tx stabs have already super good wires. What lube are you using for the wires and the stem?
@@cookie150 krytox 205g0 and syringe with dieletric grease where the video states
@@F13Pty yeah maybe you need to wire balance it is a really advanced option though you could easily mess it up. I am not sure because that lubing method should eliminate all rattle. Maybe add more lube with a syringe krytox205g0 or dielectric grease. You can even add krytox xht-bdz
@@cookie150 tx stabs wires are not as stright as you think, i brought 3 sets so far and 2/ 4 of the 2u wires always need balancing, sometimes even holee mod.
@@pillowrabbit8324 yeah they are. krytox xht-bdz is also really good
does anybody know if c3 or staebie stab wires work in tx stab housings?
Unsure, but durock and everglide wires are too thick
@@samwads. 👌🏼👌🏼
the exit is the butt...
And you plug it with lube 😅
@@samwads. tairygreeneyes.mp3
The way you're shoving these into the PCB with brute force is dangerously bad advice!
Please don't do it this way. Just gently push the clip-in stem to alignment, don't force it straight downwards.
No it is not. This is a particularly tight PCB and requires additional help.
I use the tweezers regardless to save my thumbs.
You're overreacting.
I am not forcing them in by the way. I am firmly pressing down. If you watch, there was a moment where I realized it wasn't lined up and stopped to adjust.
If I use my fingers to put these in on this PCB, they still pop in as loud and as hard as they do here.
those little things at the bottom keep falling off, garbage design