The only decent shocks I've found under your $50 recommendation are the Boom Racing BRX01 shocks for $18 a pair - but that's the clearance sale price, they're only 80mm, and the springs are too stiff for anything that's not running a hard body and full interior.
Even with 3lb bodies out there, I have no idea who's picking the spring rates for a lot of these aftermarket shocks. Some of these would be too stiff for cantilever.
Firsy😂🎉 What weight oil would you recommend for rigs based on weight of the rig. Say 3lbs to 6lbs And 6lbs to 9lbs What weight would you say? Also what's your opinion on dual rate / dual spring shocks? 2 rigs came with em. Shocks are very much a weak point in my box of tools. If they aren't a desirable set up. What shocks could I replace them with on a rgt challenger ? Perhaps by a ohot you could tell how they mount . That's what gets me is the mounting. They all look like they will work then you go to attach it and realize....one of these doesn't not look the same hahahah
The weight of the oil is generally going to depend more on the construction of the shock than anything else. As we're not getting air time, we don't have to worry about matching the oil to the spring-- we just get enough spring to keep the shock from fully collapsing (mostly) and choose an oil that will sufficiently damp the shock without making it so slow that we lose compliance. With most "real" shocks (Axial, Element, Traxxas, etc) I almost always start with 40wt. But 40wt in a Dravtech feels great, where a Gmade RSD needs diff oil (+300wt) and a Gmade XD is great on 80wt. SO the weight of the oil depends on the shock itself rather than what the shock is attached to. Dual-spring shocks are a gimmick. They do not translate to scale vehicles (IMO) because we seldom need a spring rate over 4lbs-in (at the most) and are more often around 2lbs-in. Two tiny, soft springs is unnecessary. The cheapest thing I'd recommend: take-off GTS shocks (stock TRX-4) from Jenny's RC. A full set is about $40, and they're excellent. Next step, "DIY-Dravtechs," Traxxas TRA2660 Big Bores with Element SE hardware and springs (or Dravtech hardware and springs). You're in about $70 for everything. The premium would be Dravtechs. Fill them with 40wt and go. You would need two pair and at least one spring pack, so expect to spend about $110-120 total.
@Crawler Canyon Thank you so much! Perhaps if I get the funds in the gateway I could pay pal you to maybe set me up a set of shocks ? I imagine you'd need the rig? Or no ?
I've been lucky buying gmade shocks. They work well.. also which lube are you using on the o-rings. I'm using the blue stuff from 1up racing and the green stuff from losi.. they both work well.
Whatever Protek is putting in their little syringe. I was an Associated Green Slime guy forever, then ran out, found it out of stock everywhere, and bought the Protek.
The first shock I ever bought was a 90mm dual spring kyx they leaked constantly and with your video I scraped them and got dravtechs I'll never go back in shocks I think you get what you pay for
The shocks may be JUNK, but the VIEW isn't. All this is very educational! I've got the Enduro builders kit II on the way. Are those Element shocks okay? It's this kit that will benefit from your ICFTW episodes about the amuminium rails😊. In the comments I find you recommendations for shocks. I don't see the Dessert Lizards in there. Ain't they that good? I see them on a lot of rigs?
I have like... four sets of Desert Lizards. BUt they keep getting more expensive, and little fiddly things like the absolute requirement of using a specific ball for the top of the shock make them drop down my list of choices. I'd put them like fourth, because a set costs about $10 more than a set of GTS. Which is not a bash on Lizards, I think they work well enough, come with plenty of extras (and tuning springs,) and when mounted upside-down can go ages without needing a rebuild. I wouldn't change them on Jolly Green for anything. The Element shocks, particularly the Factory Team version that come with the Builder's Kit, are VERY good. Element knows how to build a shock because they're Associated, and Associated has been doing it a looooooong time. The only reason I don't recommend them is that when sold a la carte they're just crazy expensive-- nearly as much as a set of Dravtechs. So when they come in a kit, absolutely no reason to replace them-- I think I run 6 or 7 sets total-- but I don't recommend people go out and spend $90 on them.
The shocks with faux reservoir is trully junk, however, the similar shocks without the faux reservoir is great... They have bladder but can be turned into emulsion shocks easily by swapping the shock body with the faux reservoir shock body with additional 9mm ID and 1mm CS o-ring for the upper cap seal... I also added a 3.5mm nylon washer for the bottom cap (I just 3d printed them using resin material) for pressing the two 3.5mm ID and 2mm CS o ring seals...
I've only seen the LCX kinda-Dravtechs, but they're $27 a pair, too rich for Junkview consideration. If it was a set of four, they'd be a no-doubt test subject.
@@CrawlerCanyon They look like the same shock to me except for different rod ends, i have seen them on aliexpress for 20ish a pair. But i totally agree that 20-27 a pair is too much for shocks that might be junk. Especially if the springs are as stiff as they look.
Luckily, I got away with ordered zero. One of the channel members asked if I wanted to review "the worst shocks he'd ever seen," and I was like, of course! There are seven functional shocks because one of the first set self-disassembled during use, so he ordered a second set. And they still aren't as bad as RC4WD Kings.
The quality of the shock matters here. Some shocks are easier to build, and some are much slower to leak. But as they say, "the only Axial shock that doesn't leak is the one you haven't built yet."
I use a sort of plumber paste, to seal...since I use that, no shock has ever leaked....its a bit messy to put it on with a thootpick, but its better then the marine grease wich I used before
@@PeasantNo.471 the leaking is very seldom from anything threaded-- leaking tends to take place between the shaft and the seals. That's absolutely been the case in all of the Amazon junk shocks. No amount of teflon paste is going to stop that.
Complete junk… except for one scenario where it truly doesn’t matter what kind of shock ya have. They did work just fine for my 6x6 tow rig… lol instant regret when I pulled them out of the package! They looked good and beefy on the trx6 though.
I feel like they could almost have been saved had ANY of the threading been "common." If I could just put on caps from some other shock, they would approach salvageable. But the 3.5mm shafts, no seal spacers, oversized springs, functionally worthless reservoirs... it all combines to form a real Voltron of Failure®.
I was so completely disappointed with them, right out of the package, I never even tore them apart. After seeing this, I’m glad I didn’t waste anymore of my time. They hauled a lot of rigs to my crawler course and a LOT of concrete and rocks as well. Eventually I did bend the hell out of two of the shafts though. Built a ridiculously large and steep axle slide and decided to send the 6x6 down as a test dummy, since it’s the most durable. Just demolished those shocks, So they are gone for good!
Every S8E I've ever encountered leaks a lil' bit. Not splooshing oil out on every cycle like cheap Amazon stuff, but certainly not sealing as well as... anything from Traxxas, really.
@@NFEzantiszar I don't conflate the company with the product. Somewhere, a nameless, faceless engineer designed the GTS, and they did a proper good job of it-- how well that shock works with a dinky 7mm piston is just downright impressive. What their corporate legal arm does in the name of IP defense doesn't impact me at all. Plenty of companies that serve the population at large do all kinds of questionable stuff-- Nestle still doesn't think access to water is a human right-- but we're all still eating chocolate. Coca Cola basically gave Mexico obesity (and diabetes.). If I have to draw a line in the sand for Traxxas to cross that will stop me from forever buying their products, they're nowhere near that line yet.
@@CrawlerCanyon thru are solid shocks can't deny it there since that's what my sons c2 rig runs. As for the ultra shocks specifically the front slash ones are 90mm i got a buddy that made losi Mini t spring adapters for em. The whole traxxas thing just leaves a sour note cause i love the trx4 and done other of their stuff but 🤷♂️ it be what it be still but a trx4 for cheap if i find one lol
Question, on your injora lcg build, forgot the name, you are using the same rear shock position, using big bore trx shocks with 90wt - 90mm, feels like 30wt seeing how they compress. What wt oil are you using, was almost thinking of using 300k diff fluid. Lastly, is it taboo to mix oil weights? Thanks in advance.
The Colonel is running those Gmade RSDs, where diff fluid is required-- he's running like 5000cst in the front and 7000cst in the back. In Big Bores (2660s) I've been running 80wt, which seems about perfect for me-- that's what's on Argentum. Mixing oil is fine, I would just stay with the same brand-- half full of 40wt and half 50wt will indeed be 45wt. If it ain't, well I'll be, because I've done it for years.
@@Team_ReVolt cst is centistoke, that's the metric one. wt is weight, which is what me (mostly) use here. 500cst is roughly 40wt, so 5000cst is ~400wt. This becomes far more important when buying diff oils, which need to be thick for some applications; several manufacturers will say "20,000wt" on one part of the bottle, and "20,000cst" on another. Those are radically different fluids.
Thank you for the "junk view" ur saving people head aches time and money.👍
This episode was a blast. Thanks for viewing that junk.
Per usual on this channel, the worst products make for the most entertaining reviews. Thank you for your service 😂
Thank you for doing this junk view!
The only decent shocks I've found under your $50 recommendation are the Boom Racing BRX01 shocks for $18 a pair - but that's the clearance sale price, they're only 80mm, and the springs are too stiff for anything that's not running a hard body and full interior.
Even with 3lb bodies out there, I have no idea who's picking the spring rates for a lot of these aftermarket shocks. Some of these would be too stiff for cantilever.
Firsy😂🎉
What weight oil would you recommend for rigs based on weight of the rig.
Say 3lbs to 6lbs
And 6lbs to 9lbs
What weight would you say?
Also what's your opinion on dual rate / dual spring shocks?
2 rigs came with em. Shocks are very much a weak point in my box of tools.
If they aren't a desirable set up.
What shocks could I replace them with on a rgt challenger ? Perhaps by a ohot you could tell how they mount .
That's what gets me is the mounting.
They all look like they will work then you go to attach it and realize....one of these doesn't not look the same hahahah
The weight of the oil is generally going to depend more on the construction of the shock than anything else. As we're not getting air time, we don't have to worry about matching the oil to the spring-- we just get enough spring to keep the shock from fully collapsing (mostly) and choose an oil that will sufficiently damp the shock without making it so slow that we lose compliance.
With most "real" shocks (Axial, Element, Traxxas, etc) I almost always start with 40wt. But 40wt in a Dravtech feels great, where a Gmade RSD needs diff oil (+300wt) and a Gmade XD is great on 80wt. SO the weight of the oil depends on the shock itself rather than what the shock is attached to.
Dual-spring shocks are a gimmick. They do not translate to scale vehicles (IMO) because we seldom need a spring rate over 4lbs-in (at the most) and are more often around 2lbs-in. Two tiny, soft springs is unnecessary.
The cheapest thing I'd recommend: take-off GTS shocks (stock TRX-4) from Jenny's RC. A full set is about $40, and they're excellent.
Next step, "DIY-Dravtechs," Traxxas TRA2660 Big Bores with Element SE hardware and springs (or Dravtech hardware and springs). You're in about $70 for everything.
The premium would be Dravtechs. Fill them with 40wt and go. You would need two pair and at least one spring pack, so expect to spend about $110-120 total.
@Crawler Canyon Thank you so much!
Perhaps if I get the funds in the gateway I could pay pal you to maybe set me up a set of shocks ? I imagine you'd need the rig? Or no ?
I've been lucky buying gmade shocks. They work well.. also which lube are you using on the o-rings. I'm using the blue stuff from 1up racing and the green stuff from losi.. they both work well.
Whatever Protek is putting in their little syringe. I was an Associated Green Slime guy forever, then ran out, found it out of stock everywhere, and bought the Protek.
@@CrawlerCanyon I heard the protek stuff is really good. I might get a jar when I run out.
Awesome information
The first shock I ever bought was a 90mm dual spring kyx they leaked constantly and with your video I scraped them and got dravtechs I'll never go back in shocks I think you get what you pay for
The shocks may be JUNK, but the VIEW isn't. All this is very educational!
I've got the Enduro builders kit II on the way. Are those Element shocks okay?
It's this kit that will benefit from your ICFTW episodes about the amuminium rails😊.
In the comments I find you recommendations for shocks. I don't see the Dessert Lizards in there. Ain't they that good? I see them on a lot of rigs?
I have like... four sets of Desert Lizards. BUt they keep getting more expensive, and little fiddly things like the absolute requirement of using a specific ball for the top of the shock make them drop down my list of choices. I'd put them like fourth, because a set costs about $10 more than a set of GTS. Which is not a bash on Lizards, I think they work well enough, come with plenty of extras (and tuning springs,) and when mounted upside-down can go ages without needing a rebuild. I wouldn't change them on Jolly Green for anything.
The Element shocks, particularly the Factory Team version that come with the Builder's Kit, are VERY good. Element knows how to build a shock because they're Associated, and Associated has been doing it a looooooong time. The only reason I don't recommend them is that when sold a la carte they're just crazy expensive-- nearly as much as a set of Dravtechs. So when they come in a kit, absolutely no reason to replace them-- I think I run 6 or 7 sets total-- but I don't recommend people go out and spend $90 on them.
The shocks with faux reservoir is trully junk, however, the similar shocks without the faux reservoir is great... They have bladder but can be turned into emulsion shocks easily by swapping the shock body with the faux reservoir shock body with additional 9mm ID and 1mm CS o-ring for the upper cap seal... I also added a 3.5mm nylon washer for the bottom cap (I just 3d printed them using resin material) for pressing the two 3.5mm ID and 2mm CS o ring seals...
I'd love to see you review the Kyx "Dravtech clones", the springs look way to stiff but for 20 bucks a pair they might be decent.
I've only seen the LCX kinda-Dravtechs, but they're $27 a pair, too rich for Junkview consideration. If it was a set of four, they'd be a no-doubt test subject.
@@CrawlerCanyon They look like the same shock to me except for different rod ends, i have seen them on aliexpress for 20ish a pair. But i totally agree that 20-27 a pair is too much for shocks that might be junk. Especially if the springs are as stiff as they look.
Great review you ordered how many???
Luckily, I got away with ordered zero. One of the channel members asked if I wanted to review "the worst shocks he'd ever seen," and I was like, of course!
There are seven functional shocks because one of the first set self-disassembled during use, so he ordered a second set.
And they still aren't as bad as RC4WD Kings.
Do you have a re(view) of a amazon cantilever setup?
I watch this after I have just worked on my Tamiya Hotshot......Shocks are great, but the suspension action is crap. Have a great day dude.
Didn't the Hotshot have that single laydown shock in the front? The 80s were wild.
@@CrawlerCanyon in the front and the rear.
😁😁👍👍
Thanks for testing so folks don't buy them
I hate buildings shocks I have never had good luck they always leak.
The quality of the shock matters here. Some shocks are easier to build, and some are much slower to leak.
But as they say, "the only Axial shock that doesn't leak is the one you haven't built yet."
I use a sort of plumber paste, to seal...since I use that, no shock has ever leaked....its a bit messy to put it on with a thootpick, but its better then the marine grease wich I used before
@@PeasantNo.471 the leaking is very seldom from anything threaded-- leaking tends to take place between the shaft and the seals. That's absolutely been the case in all of the Amazon junk shocks. No amount of teflon paste is going to stop that.
Complete junk… except for one scenario where it truly doesn’t matter what kind of shock ya have. They did work just fine for my 6x6 tow rig… lol instant regret when I pulled them out of the package! They looked good and beefy on the trx6 though.
I feel like they could almost have been saved had ANY of the threading been "common." If I could just put on caps from some other shock, they would approach salvageable.
But the 3.5mm shafts, no seal spacers, oversized springs, functionally worthless reservoirs... it all combines to form a real Voltron of Failure®.
I was so completely disappointed with them, right out of the package, I never even tore them apart. After seeing this, I’m glad I didn’t waste anymore of my time. They hauled a lot of rigs to my crawler course and a LOT of concrete and rocks as well. Eventually I did bend the hell out of two of the shafts though. Built a ridiculously large and steep axle slide and decided to send the 6x6 down as a test dummy, since it’s the most durable. Just demolished those shocks, So they are gone for good!
Weird all 3 sets of SE8 shocks I have have been great no leaks and perfect smooth movement 🤔
Every S8E I've ever encountered leaks a lil' bit. Not splooshing oil out on every cycle like cheap Amazon stuff, but certainly not sealing as well as... anything from Traxxas, really.
@@CrawlerCanyon 🤔 interesting i know the GTS are awesome but with the recent traxxas fiasco 🥴 dunno
@@NFEzantiszar I don't conflate the company with the product. Somewhere, a nameless, faceless engineer designed the GTS, and they did a proper good job of it-- how well that shock works with a dinky 7mm piston is just downright impressive. What their corporate legal arm does in the name of IP defense doesn't impact me at all. Plenty of companies that serve the population at large do all kinds of questionable stuff-- Nestle still doesn't think access to water is a human right-- but we're all still eating chocolate. Coca Cola basically gave Mexico obesity (and diabetes.). If I have to draw a line in the sand for Traxxas to cross that will stop me from forever buying their products, they're nowhere near that line yet.
@@CrawlerCanyon thru are solid shocks can't deny it there since that's what my sons c2 rig runs. As for the ultra shocks specifically the front slash ones are 90mm i got a buddy that made losi Mini t spring adapters for em.
The whole traxxas thing just leaves a sour note cause i love the trx4 and done other of their stuff but 🤷♂️ it be what it be still but a trx4 for cheap if i find one lol
Question, on your injora lcg build, forgot the name, you are using the same rear shock position, using big bore trx shocks with 90wt - 90mm, feels like 30wt seeing how they compress. What wt oil are you using, was almost thinking of using 300k diff fluid. Lastly, is it taboo to mix oil weights? Thanks in advance.
I was gonna try dif fluid too
The Colonel is running those Gmade RSDs, where diff fluid is required-- he's running like 5000cst in the front and 7000cst in the back. In Big Bores (2660s) I've been running 80wt, which seems about perfect for me-- that's what's on Argentum.
Mixing oil is fine, I would just stay with the same brand-- half full of 40wt and half 50wt will indeed be 45wt. If it ain't, well I'll be, because I've done it for years.
@@CrawlerCanyon cst , wt: what does it stand for? What is the difference?
@@Team_ReVolt cst is centistoke, that's the metric one. wt is weight, which is what me (mostly) use here. 500cst is roughly 40wt, so 5000cst is ~400wt.
This becomes far more important when buying diff oils, which need to be thick for some applications; several manufacturers will say "20,000wt" on one part of the bottle, and "20,000cst" on another. Those are radically different fluids.
Saving people money..