My differential has been "singing" for years. Now it got very loud and finally it crashed. But I got a used one with all the specifications for my 300te (ASD, no ABS ...) and I'm very happy with this. Greetings from Germany!
Regarding these shafts, they are basically only fitted to m104 powered 124’s and 129’s in Australia so finding replacements will be near impossible. I think i will fit new inner joints and clean out the outer ones and fit new boots and hope for the best. I’ve pretty much no other choice. Buying new ones will be outrageous.
An Oil change an new sealing Rings should by sufficient for the next 300.000km. My E320T build 1993 has 560.000 km whitout demage on the Differential. Only Oil changes and sealing Rings in 2005 at 400.000km. Has worked whitout problems since then! The Quality is realy incredible! But here in Germany Rust is the mutch bigger Problem. A lot of road salt on the steets...
The inner joint really seems like its just disconnected, it can happen when you pull it too hard and just need to open the rubber boot and allign balls with shaft again (giggedy). Im not 100% sure if w124 even has these kind that disconnect but have a look anyway.
Heigo Heeringas i’m not sure if my ball fondling skills are upto the task. As mentioned i’d love to just fit new inner joints as they are available and easy to change. The stuffed outer one is the real worry. The big problem now as I just discovered is that these shafts are m104 specific and will be very hard to replace 😭
Never had an issue with splined or Torx bits on a rattle gun providing the bits are a good quality and the rattle gun isnt turned up to eleventy. Of course they should already be clean and damage free.
I would replace the breather on the topside of the differential. If it gets blocked it can result in overpressure and blow your nicely installed new seals.
Hi dude your videos very very useful admirations, as I am about to perform the same with my differential as I am not a mechanic and I was wondering what stuff to use to clean the differential from inside you have mentioned something about a solution what exactly is that solution?
It looks good to me, but it wouldnt hurt to check the shop manual to see if there are any checks that need to be performed prior re-sealing the differential. Your impact gun (Rattle Gun)makes a phenomenal difference removing the axle shafts. I would hate to break them loose by hand as well as loosing skin on my pretty hands. Lol
DJ Wallick my hands were pretty, this w124 is quickly changing that. Haha. To be honest i did try the first bolt by hand with the 2 foot long ratchet and said f&&k that after I couldn’t even get it to budge. I love my impact gun it just absolutely destroys those crimped down safety nuts in seconds that are a bitch to remove by hand.
@@MMWA-DAVE Speaking of impacts, my kids just bought me a Milwaukee 3/8 drive cordless ratchet for Christmas, I cant wait to use it at the Junkyard on my day off! I found a couple of 190Es in there inventory that I'm going to pick through. 😁
DJ Wallick i wish there was anything at all to pick thru here. Im probably going to have to take my impact with me when i go interstate holidaying shortly
Just because my hex bolts like to live a simple life dedicated to good clean morals doesn't mean you need to call them vanilla with that tone. They are good god fearing fasteners; something these young bolts of today could stand to learn about.
Your differential looks pretty good. I would think about exchanging the bearings together with the seals. On one of my w124 I had to replace them at 330000km. On the other they are still good at 354000km.
@@MMWA-DAVE exactly. First I thought it would be the wheel bearings, but it did not change with steering. The noise changed with changing gas pedal position and became louder at higher speeds. The noise was very high, a little bit like a electric engine (if that makes sense?)
Simon Müller was there anything noticeable about the worn bearings appearance? I’m wondering how i can tell the state of mine. Replacing them will introduce more delays with my project - though i’ve still no idea what to do about my shafts
The bearings themself just felt like every other worn out bearing. It was very easy to turn, too easy. You can feel it, when turning the bearings by hand.
thank you for your help,I have 300D already converted from manual to auto,the problem when i go above 80km and my foot left the gaz pedal all the car vibrate ,they told me its probably that differntial was not changed ,could you help me how to make sure from this .another info on speed 100 km rpm is 3
Wish I had been this thorough but I was running out of time and had to get the car back together. Mine felt “notchy” when I held one side and spun the other. Didn’t have time to pull 1/2 shafts either :( No leaks though.
i know im randomly asking but does anyone know a way to log back into an Instagram account?? I stupidly lost the login password. I would appreciate any tips you can give me.
@Gunnar Fabian i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff atm. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
the larger 210mm 3.27 is as far as im aware in the m104.980 4 speed automatic 124 sedan and coupe, you would need to double check though. Probably kinda rare these days.
is it safe to jack up a W124 from the rear differential - and what could go wrong? e.g on a 34 year old mercedes - can those rubber bushings disintegrate..
@@mojo888x i dont have the special tool for pressing out and pressing in the new ones. So i do this job when the entire subframe is out and rebuild everything. I do it using my hydraulic press. This is not the correct method but works for me. It doesn’t take long if you have the correct device to do it as per the manual.
when doing these pinion seals i usually tighten the nut back to exactly the same position it was in from the factory. I know its not the highest accuracy but its not let me down yet.
Could you give me some insight here? Why does only 1 wheel rotate when I have the car raised up at the rear and in gear? Only my left wheel moves in drive, the right one does not move unless I accelerate and the gears change.
This is normal behaviour for an open centre differential. The wheel with least resistance is the one that will turn. If you held that left wheel from rotating the right one will turn instead. Totally normal. If you have a limited slip differential then that would be a different story.
@@MMWA-DAVE Thanks for the heads up. Every now and then since I changed the rear shocks, I hear a clanking sound and I’m trying to locate the source. It’s utterly frustrating because up in the air I could not replicate the sound. Any thoughts on what this could be?
how can i open the axle shaft bolts? i think my impact gun is just to weak and i cant really use a braker bar or something like that because the shaft keeps spinning.. any help would be much appreciated
JuckPlayS it’s exceptionally difficult without a powerful impact gun. If the subframe is still in the car the parking brake can help but its not really that strong. I did replace the axel shafts on my 6.9 back when I didn’t have an impact gun so it’s definitely possible. I must have locked the shafts somehow as the parking brake didn’t even work in that car. I possibly used a long screwdriver levered between 2 of the bolts while undoing a 3rd one.
Khobaib AlAhmar its the half inch drive milwaukee m18 fuel impact gun from memory- it was top of the range. Best thing i’ve ever bought for working on cars- still have not found its limits. Its model number is specific to Australia retail version so probably useless for rest of world. It was the one with 1400nm removing torque. They are probably even more powerful now i’ve not checked
My differential has been "singing" for years. Now it got very loud and finally it crashed. But I got a used one with all the specifications for my 300te (ASD, no ABS ...) and I'm very happy with this.
Greetings from Germany!
Regarding these shafts, they are basically only fitted to m104 powered 124’s and 129’s in Australia so finding replacements will be near impossible. I think i will fit new inner joints and clean out the outer ones and fit new boots and hope for the best. I’ve pretty much no other choice. Buying new ones will be outrageous.
MMWA at about 3:42 in this video it’s recommended to swap the shafts L to R side. Not sure if that helps. ruclips.net/video/ZxuCyghx97Q/видео.html
Daren Stahl interesting idea. Maybe i will be able to get some more life out of these outer joints
Tell everyone how outrageous if you can just for some context.
An Oil change an new sealing Rings should by sufficient for the next 300.000km. My E320T build 1993 has 560.000 km whitout demage on the Differential. Only Oil changes and sealing Rings in 2005 at 400.000km. Has worked whitout problems since then! The Quality is realy incredible!
But here in Germany Rust is the mutch bigger Problem. A lot of road salt on the steets...
This encourages me to not give up on my project!
The inner joint really seems like its just disconnected, it can happen when you pull it too hard and just need to open the rubber boot and allign balls with shaft again (giggedy).
Im not 100% sure if w124 even has these kind that disconnect but have a look anyway.
Heigo Heeringas i’m not sure if my ball fondling skills are upto the task. As mentioned i’d love to just fit new inner joints as they are available and easy to change. The stuffed outer one is the real worry. The big problem now as I just discovered is that these shafts are m104 specific and will be very hard to replace 😭
Thank you for this content... I just know that changing seal on differential is more complex than my imagination.. 😄
Never had an issue with splined or Torx bits on a rattle gun providing the bits are a good quality and the rattle gun isnt turned up to eleventy.
Of course they should already be clean and damage free.
There is a lash spec on the main gear you could check with a dial indicator.
I would replace the breather on the topside of the differential. If it gets blocked it can result in overpressure and blow your nicely installed new seals.
Good idea, I’ll check it out
Hi dude your videos very very useful admirations, as I am about to perform the same with my differential as I am not a mechanic and I was wondering what stuff to use to clean the differential from inside you have mentioned something about a solution what exactly is that solution?
It looks good to me, but it wouldnt hurt to check the shop manual to see if there are any checks that need to be performed prior re-sealing the differential. Your impact gun (Rattle Gun)makes a phenomenal difference removing the axle shafts. I would hate to break them loose by hand as well as loosing skin on my pretty hands. Lol
DJ Wallick my hands were pretty, this w124 is quickly changing that. Haha. To be honest i did try the first bolt by hand with the 2 foot long ratchet and said f&&k that after I couldn’t even get it to budge. I love my impact gun it just absolutely destroys those crimped down safety nuts in seconds that are a bitch to remove by hand.
@@MMWA-DAVE Speaking of impacts, my kids just bought me a Milwaukee 3/8 drive cordless ratchet for Christmas, I cant wait to use it at the Junkyard on my day off! I found a couple of 190Es in there inventory that I'm going to pick through. 😁
DJ Wallick i wish there was anything at all to pick thru here. Im probably going to have to take my impact with me when i go interstate holidaying shortly
Just because my hex bolts like to live a simple life dedicated to good clean morals doesn't mean you need to call them vanilla with that tone. They are good god fearing fasteners; something these young bolts of today could stand to learn about.
Your differential looks pretty good. I would think about exchanging the bearings together with the seals. On one of my w124 I had to replace them at 330000km. On the other they are still good at 354000km.
Simon Müller what were the symptoms? Abnormal noise?
@@MMWA-DAVE exactly. First I thought it would be the wheel bearings, but it did not change with steering. The noise changed with changing gas pedal position and became louder at higher speeds. The noise was very high, a little bit like a electric engine (if that makes sense?)
Simon Müller was there anything noticeable about the worn bearings appearance? I’m wondering how i can tell the state of mine. Replacing them will introduce more delays with my project - though i’ve still no idea what to do about my shafts
The bearings themself just felt like every other worn out bearing. It was very easy to turn, too easy. You can feel it, when turning the bearings by hand.
Simon Müller interesting - now you have given me something to think about. I will look at them closely and see how they are
thank you for your help,I have 300D already converted from manual to auto,the problem when i go above 80km and my foot left the gaz pedal all the car vibrate ,they told me its probably that differntial was not changed ,could you help me how to make sure from this .another info on speed 100 km rpm is 3
Wish I had been this thorough but I was running out of time and had to get the car back together. Mine felt “notchy” when I held one side and spun the other. Didn’t have time to pull 1/2 shafts either :( No leaks though.
i know im randomly asking but does anyone know a way to log back into an Instagram account??
I stupidly lost the login password. I would appreciate any tips you can give me.
@Cory Allan instablaster ;)
@Gunnar Fabian i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Gunnar Fabian it did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. I am so happy:D
Thank you so much you saved my account !
@Cory Allan Happy to help :)
The seals are still available?
Would you know which Mercedes I'll need to look for to find a 210mm 3.27 differential. Thanks
the larger 210mm 3.27 is as far as im aware in the m104.980 4 speed automatic 124 sedan and coupe, you would need to double check though. Probably kinda rare these days.
Hi, is there any difference in changing diff fluid on a ASD diff
is it safe to jack up a W124 from the rear differential - and what could go wrong?
e.g on a 34 year old mercedes - can those rubber bushings disintegrate..
i do it all the time, but my bushings are all recent. on originals they may well tear
@@MMWA-DAVE how long did it take you to put in new bushings?
@@mojo888x i dont have the special tool for pressing out and pressing in the new ones. So i do this job when the entire subframe is out and rebuild everything. I do it using my hydraulic press. This is not the correct method but works for me. It doesn’t take long if you have the correct device to do it as per the manual.
do you have a part number for the abs o-ring?
Hey, so for the front nut you just tightened it by hand?
when doing these pinion seals i usually tighten the nut back to exactly the same position it was in from the factory. I know its not the highest accuracy but its not let me down yet.
Could you give me some insight here? Why does only 1 wheel rotate when I have the car raised up at the rear and in gear? Only my left wheel moves in drive, the right one does not move unless I accelerate and the gears change.
This is normal behaviour for an open centre differential. The wheel with least resistance is the one that will turn. If you held that left wheel from rotating the right one will turn instead. Totally normal. If you have a limited slip differential then that would be a different story.
PS, i would advise against spinning up the rear wheels while dangling in the air, this is putting tremendous stress on the axle shaft joints.
@@MMWA-DAVE Thanks for the heads up. Every now and then since I changed the rear shocks, I hear a clanking sound and I’m trying to locate the source. It’s utterly frustrating because up in the air I could not replicate the sound. Any thoughts on what this could be?
Thanks..
Nice job
Thank you
how can i open the axle shaft bolts? i think my impact gun is just to weak and i cant really use a braker bar or something like that because the shaft keeps spinning.. any help would be much appreciated
JuckPlayS it’s exceptionally difficult without a powerful impact gun. If the subframe is still in the car the parking brake can help but its not really that strong. I did replace the axel shafts on my 6.9 back when I didn’t have an impact gun so it’s definitely possible. I must have locked the shafts somehow as the parking brake didn’t even work in that car. I possibly used a long screwdriver levered between 2 of the bolts while undoing a 3rd one.
@@MMWA-DAVE Yup put lug bolts in and use a lever/bar/whatever across the bolts to hold the flange in counter torque.
What is the model of your impact gun ?
Khobaib AlAhmar its the half inch drive milwaukee m18 fuel impact gun from memory- it was top of the range. Best thing i’ve ever bought for working on cars- still have not found its limits. Its model number is specific to Australia retail version so probably useless for rest of world. It was the one with 1400nm removing torque. They are probably even more powerful now i’ve not checked
it is the first generation Milwaukee hi torque 1/2" cordless impact wrench. now suoerseded with even more powerful guns
I made a mistake, it does have ABS, but no ASR.
get out the diaper cream and show us some mesh pattern!