I have huge respect for starting a project like this. Even in Germany, there are only a very few MB Dealerships, who have the mechanics with the knowledge of how to rebuild a transmission anymore. The labour MB stated is about 10 hours, just for the complete rebuild, without installing. And the parts alone, for a rebuild, are approx. 1500€. And my local MB Dealership charges 165€ per hour...I guess that is why, most MB Dealerships just sell you a factory rebuild transmission in exchange. I have been told, to rebuild this type of transmission, you need special tools and knowledge of how to adjust the transmission ( the clutch e.g. friction pads ) after the rebuild. Regarding the first gear start, i am not sure which kind of shifting panel you have. Mine has next to the number 2 a B, which stands for Berg ( Mountain ) the meaning is, when you drive up a very steep hill, you shift on B, which is the first gear. But i am not sure, if export W124 have this too. As well, there are people here, they connect a jump wire from that B mechanism to the D shift, so meaning, the car would always start from first gear. Anyway, good luck with your project, and thanks for sharing it with us...
Sadly ,in Germany they need a special tool for everything this days... Even my plumber was need a special tool for fixing my shower and his special tool was a polish guy that fixed my issue in 1 minute... So, this days german engineering and knowledge are a thing from the past... RIP...
Great video - I'm following this series closely. By the way, if you want to pull away from standstill in first gear just change from 'D' to '2' and back to 'D' again (when stationary) and it engages first gear. Then off you go!
Kenny baird this is what i do in my blue/black w124. I’’m dead keen to see if this modification actually works - Australia version m104.980 and 722.359 are some what unique. I know what the differences are with the engine but i’ve never seen it documented what the difference is with the Australian version transmission.
@@MMWA-DAVE I find it interesting that they'd even go to the extent of making any differences for the relatively small Australian market. The few 90s BMWs I've had are quite literally just RHD UK spec, and quite obviously so, often with the only difference being the fog lights removed...
Jacob O'Brien i’ve never gone thru and checked what parts are actually different on au version, but there definitely is a 722.359 Australia version specific set pages in the parts catalog. I still don’t know myself what the differences are. I would love to know though.
You can add a solenoid switch to the test port of the governor and activate the solenoid by running a wire to the kickdown. Start out in 1st with kickdown.
Just got my 400e transmission apart using this video as a guide, found all sorts of play in the 1 and 4 pack which matches the problem of no first gear, hoping all goes well going back together
very helpful to see the aux pump dissasembled. now I have a clue what I'm looking for when I pul the cover on mine to replace the leaking o ring. I appreciate the video very much.
I rebuilt 400 to 450 of these transmissions. You should remove the valve body and replace pan before removing trans. I could remove, rebuild both clutch drums, planetary gears and valve body. Install trans and out the door in 8 hrs. By myself. Had to reopen only one (reverse clearance was too tight) . Rebuilt type 1,2,3 and 4 trans.at MB Trans San Diego. Thanks John for teaching me your skills
Just got a ‘89 300CE LORINSER…198k total cream puff pristine interior sport wheel/seats..mono block AMG wheels with brand new tires Ice cold Ac here in az runs like a sewing machine 120mph butter smooth. I paid $800…I thought I was getting set up or robbed. I will post a total walk through of the car soon as I get the time. I still can’t believe it.
Man you are just amazing at explaining everything...my issue with the gearbox is a big clunck in the back when changing and actually it sprints me a bit forward if my foot is not on the gas still trying to troubleshoot it without opening the hole gearbox.All my Vaccum are ok but i cant find a vaccum modulator yet to try that fix.I have been told about the K1 k2 and B1 spring pistons but still i dont know what to do. All my filters and oil is brand new..I should mention if the im pressing the gas the changes are very smooth .But the car changes at 3500 rpm from 2-3 and 3-4 thats when the clunk is most agressive or when i hange from D to R multiple times and my bodween cable didnt do any difference yet...The car in this case is a w124 220e 1996 auto transsmision!..If you have any advice i would be honored to listen/read!
My suspicions are this W124 accumulated great part of its kilometres in highway driving if the friction discs still have that lot of material as you say, and if this one is still in factory conditions and wasn't ever rebuilt. There are chances your other W124 with far less kms had a worn tranny either because of towing heavy trailers or at some time the car was towed and no safety measures were taken as not to damage the gearbox. Subject aside, I'd feel the need to share this: In my endless inquest for a budget W124, I encountered a battered but quite rare specimen 260E. This one came with full Sportline package (suspension, quicker steering and 7Jx15 plus smaller wheel and bucket rear seats), and, 717.433 manual transmission (alpaca grey leather seats). I haven't been able to find any other similar 260E/300E Sportline with bucket seats and M/T on Google, so this one may be a [not valuable] unicorn. Car sits in horrible condition, but runs on a Ford carburettor because it has CNG (owner still has the KE-Jetronic system). The idea would be to have this car as a DIY budget project, and if things turn out to be much more complicated and very expensive, part it out and recoup the money. Full description is in the following post if you are interested in giving your opinion on this one: www.benzworld.org/threads/w124-260e-300e-sportline-m-t-disaster---purchasing-advice.3042975/#post-17927900
Apex Seal you are correct about highway miles, the owner i have documented history of did 100,000km+ driving 120km a day round trip to work. From his home to the airforce base the vast majority would have been cruising in 4th gear at between 80-110km/h. My blur black 124’s owner lived at the top of a huge hill plus it had the ability to tow. Regarding your sportline, im not sure how rare the seats are where you live but those sportline seats with individual rears are rare as hell. Hence why i went to the trouble of retrofitting to red. If you can get the car cheap enough id get it, even if you dont restore it you can put the interior and sportline steering box into something else. Absolutely would not hesitate *as long as its not expensive to purchase and you wont miss the money.
MMWA Probably, that is what I am thinking as a project. W124 are not so common to see here as they may be in the US or Europe, but I have NEVER seen any similar 260E/300E on the Internet with a similar combination (full Sportline w/ manual transmission), that's the only reason why I am considering the purchase. If you have seen the images on the post I made asking for advice on this MB forum, you'll see a horrible condition car. Paint on four fenders and bonnet is cloudy (almost to the point of being white) but not on roofline or boot. Driver seat left bolster is torn, has some sewings that ceased and several trim pieces falling off. If I could get a spray gun and 199 paint, I may try to respray it (I have a small airbrush compressor, not sure if it will work). If it were a regular 300E A/T (or even M/T) in this conditions, I'll definitely run away, but as it's a rare version I consider it special, specifically because this is the factory spec and not a retrofitted unit, which I feel it makes a car (any car) more valuable. I know it's worth almost nothing as it is not a 500E, but feel mistakenly tempted to buy it, hopefully for a DIY project and not pouring endless money into it. If I can make it through without losing a cent (which I doubt), I'm fine. Do check out the post and replies if you haven't already, there is plenty of info about it there and the pictures depict the car far more better than what I can come up to in words. Cheers!
My goodness! Sean tuning in from Atlanta. Phenomenal! You make it all look so easy. I shall continue to follow so that the day I have to work on mine, these videos will be my guide. Any special tools required?
I have done the 1st gear start modification and it does work, however the 1st to 2nd shift is hard, can become annoying therefore I installed a shift correction kit from eBay
@@MMWA-DAVE Its a simple procedure, you have to remove the valve body to get access. For a Mercedes sedan luxury car you want soft shifts therefore I would only use the 1st to 2nd shift softening spring out of the whole kit, the other springs in the kit make the shift more firm which probably do not suit the luxury car feel. there is a good video here: ruclips.net/video/h9thWDLR5yo/видео.html
I was not aware of this mod, I wonder if this is my the 300TE I bought recently has a harsh 1-2 shift. So under normal driving is it only supposed to use 2-3-4?
@@mmmlinux Yes, the Mercedes transmission 722.3 and 722.4 (Non Electronic) transmissions are setup to operate: 2-3-4 and 1 gear only if you floor it from a standstill. Frankly I don't see the need for this modifications for daily driving.
So I tried to push on that sprung round cover (same one that exploded on you) and was able to push it in with little of effort with my bare hand. I did it because it was leaking in that area and i was just looking around, after that it wouldn't pop out by itself, so I had to drop the pan and apply some compressed air into some channel for that to pop out. Do you think I have those springs broken? Is it even possible? What could brake those?
Does anyone have a theory on why the reverse clutches wear? And do they only wear when reverse gear is actually engaged? Given the amount of time cars spend in reverse compared to forward gears you'd have thought they'd outlast everything else...
@@MMWA-DAVE yeah fair point, do you reckon a higher line pressure would help? Some people on forums have found that increasing the viscosity of the fluid helps a lot. I was thinking next time I service the 722.358 in my W140 I'll use Valvoline Maxlife synthetic ATF which restores the elasticity and function of old seals (proven with actually soaking old, dried seals in it, Vs regular Dex III) but it's on the thinner side so I was going to boost the viscosity with two bottles of Lucas transmission fix. I have a sneaking feeling that this would be a perfect blend for these along with a new filter
I believe that same transmission is in the 190E is it not? I liked your video, for years I've been terrified to tear apart an automatic trans, but it appears to be very simple to overhaul. I'll keep your video saved in case I have to do it later. Also, how much did your master overhaul kit cost and where did you purchase it from?
722.4 series will be in the 190, it’s basically the same but smaller housing as the drums and frictions etc are a slightly smaller diameter. Oddly, 722.3 is the big case and 722.4 is the small case, then theres the 722.5 which is the big case with 5 speeds.
Hi I can tell from your accent you are an Aussie like me. I have a 722.319 transmission to rebuild. We’re can I buy the rebuild kits with friction plates
i’m sure you can - but the m120 v12 is rare here in Australia and have never had access to one. R129 600 and W140 600 will have 722.3 presumably upto end of 1995 then went to 722.6 from 1996 like the others.
Hello thanks for sharing that you know. Sorry what size 8s the tool usted at 1.39 minute please. I am looking for, to remove this part from my 722.3 transmission. Regards
Hi! Thank you for this video. I am thinking of repairing my tran 722.4 (grinding in reverse and reverse slip when hot). Can you give a link where to buy good parts for this transmission here in Australia (or somewhere else, if applicable). Thanks!
Igor NIKONOV everything lately i just buy on eBay Australia. My blue black 124 had the grinding in reverse - the reverse piston on the back side of the front pump will be over extended due to the reverse frictions being worn out. Fortunately its all accessible from the front of the transmission. While you have the transmission out you should also replace the engines rear main seal - i was a dumbass and thought “she’ll be right” and didn’t. It now leaks and I regret not doing it.
Thanks for the Video. The 722.1 transmission on my MB 280SE D-Jet has been idle for over a decade. I fixed my M110 engine and to my surprise the 722.1 gearbox worked normally. After 6 months he experienced this instability. The oil level is good. Is it an electrical or vacuum problem?
Are you sure that transmission isn't a MB rebuilt unit? There appears to be a tag on the lower left side of the bellhousing that normally is put on rebuilt units, not originals. Check and see what it says. One of my W140s has a tag that identifies it as rebuilt.
Jon Lowe i’ll have a look, but the serial number of this trans matches the data card so it’s the one it left the factory with. MB rebuilt units are so outrageously expensive here it would have only been a possibility when the car was near new and still worth a fortune - i have a lot of service history with the car from around 100k km to 200k km and the owner from 200k+ would not have spent that kind of money given how badly the car was allowed to deteriorate.
When they are rebuilt by MB, how does that happen? Is it from a customer that took it to a dealership, or is there a place you send your tranmission to a Mercedes Benz facility somewhere?
Great job, great videos. Always have a respect to the people who have a skillful fingers !!! Also quick question (maybe not for the first time addressed to you) where from are you taking the appropriate documents?
Arsen Asatryan 722.3 rebuild instructions are on the internet free of charge if you look long enough. Even the ATSG manual which people charge for on ebay. The official MB manual is out there too but not as good in my opinion.
No, at the very least the front one needs to come out to remove the entire rotating assembly. The band pistons should be getting new seals which are in the kit anyway
What is that black thing on the left side of the gear box that is connected with 2 pipes into the transmission? Mine doesn't work when starting from zero but works totally fine when I have picked up som speed. Just wondering if that thing need some +voltage to make the gearbox work
How challenging is this transmission rebuild for a DIYer? My 126 w the same transmission is slipping like crazy, fluid is black, and I’m thinking of doing the rebuild myself.
Hope you stay around to answer my spare part question : is it a spare part kit that include all the parts you need for a job like you did on this transmission, if so do you have the P/N? Again, Thanks.
What brand of master kit do you recommend ? According to Turbo Bandit, those transmissions and the later 5 speed will happily accommodate 600 = HP ! So you only have to remove the valve body to complete the 1st gear start ? 🤞😊😍👀
Paul Mc Brien the first gear start modification is isolated to the valve body as far as im aware. Some 722.3 cars had first gear start from the factory, it’s annoying that the m104.980 which needs to rev was hampered with second gear start at all. As for the master kit I purchased mine on ebay from a company in Australia called trade alley, from memory. The kit is not just everything loose in a bag. Its sub kits for each module so its pretty hard to screw up. The ATSG manual is online and free too if you look hard enough, it steps through the entire rebuild process.
Not personally, but it has been done before by many. Just remember ALL w126's have electronic speedometers so some adaptation is required at the rear of the transmission. Only the v8 w124's had electronic speedometers, rest are mechanical.
@@MMWA-DAVE For sure. I've got the documentation on all that in front of me now. Once the budget is ready again, I'll be giving it a go for the 3rd time. I need to do a better job. I know there were a few things I missed in the previous 2 rebuilds.
Hey I just take my 722.3 trans out for leaks front seal. Will do a complete rebuild. Do recommend reusing the bands and torque converter?? If not do recommend using aftermarket if so what brand name ? Thanks . Best regards.
sonny singh dependant on the condition of the internals. If its still in good condition I wouldn’t do a rebuild or replace anything but seals. Just my opinion of course. The reverse frictions should be looked and and replaced if necessary, the rest will probably be fine if its in good condition. My donor transmission is from a running driving car. I wont be replacing bands or friction disks unnecessarily- I certainly wont be going to the expense of a new /refurbished torque converter either - because it already works fine.
MMWA thank you very much for your valid opinion. It’s my first trans rebuilt, and just the kinda information I was looking for to make my decision.already place order for all friction disc .You just save me a lot of money. This is a running car with just the leaks . 87 w124 with 266000 miles . Please send me your link for reinstalled video . Thanks again. Best regards.
sonny singh have a look on my community page i listed a a couple videos over 5 hours long of someone rebuilding their 722.4 - its very similar to the 722.3. Also with 266k milles it probably is ready for a full rebuild. My donor trans is 220k km which is 137k miles so should still be very good inside - i hope.
MMWA hello again. I ran into some delay finishing the transmission. All was going smooth until I realized I lost the damping spring that goes in front of the reverse clutch pack . I can not find a part number or place to order this spring. any link or part number will be greatly appreciated. best regards
What do you guys say about fluid change on 722.6? Mine has never seen it and shifts very good (430K+ kilometers). I have heard some people complaining about shift quality after filter and fluid change.
@@edvardsz3539 maybe it only shifts fine for you, due you do not know the difference of how it should shift in good condition...fact is, Mercedes recommends transmission oil and filter to be changed every 60.000 km. and there is a reason for that. I would recommend to change yours, including draining the torque converter...
David C never a mechanic, i work in i.t. Everything is self taught and the majority of the manuals are available online and free of charge if look long and hard enough.
wish i could say the internals of my gearbox were the same. Unfortunately my C36 reverse gear fell apart and took out the rest of my gearbox. Some bastard in welshpool wanted $4k to fix it. When I told him 'no thanks' he charged my $1k for stripping it down.... Car hasn't run ever since..
Trent Dearlove which transmission does it have? Theres an MB specialist in Balcatta I cannot remember their name but they may be able to help. They are behind bunnings.
ALEX BREDEWOUD my friends 560sel does this every time slowing down to a stop and it drops into 2nd gear its a massive clunk. Its also a 722.3 and i think it is probably something like a spring broken in the valve body. We have not investigated it yet though
I have huge respect for starting a project like this. Even in Germany, there are only a very few MB Dealerships, who have the mechanics with the knowledge of how to rebuild a transmission anymore. The labour MB stated is about 10 hours, just for the complete rebuild, without installing. And the parts alone, for a rebuild, are approx. 1500€. And my local MB Dealership charges 165€ per hour...I guess that is why, most MB Dealerships just sell you a factory rebuild transmission in exchange. I have been told, to rebuild this type of transmission, you need special tools and knowledge of how to adjust the transmission ( the clutch e.g. friction pads ) after the rebuild. Regarding the first gear start, i am not sure which kind of shifting panel you have. Mine has next to the number 2 a B, which stands for Berg ( Mountain ) the meaning is, when you drive up a very steep hill, you shift on B, which is the first gear. But i am not sure, if export W124 have this too. As well, there are people here, they connect a jump wire from that B mechanism to the D shift, so meaning, the car would always start from first gear. Anyway, good luck with your project, and thanks for sharing it with us...
Sadly ,in Germany they need a special tool for everything this days... Even my plumber was need a special tool for fixing my shower and his special tool was a polish guy that fixed my issue in 1 minute... So, this days german engineering and knowledge are a thing from the past... RIP...
Great video - I'm following this series closely. By the way, if you want to pull away from standstill in first gear just change from 'D' to '2' and back to 'D' again (when stationary) and it engages first gear. Then off you go!
Kenny baird this is what i do in my blue/black w124. I’’m dead keen to see if this modification actually works - Australia version m104.980 and 722.359 are some what unique. I know what the differences are with the engine but i’ve never seen it documented what the difference is with the Australian version transmission.
@@MMWA-DAVE I find it interesting that they'd even go to the extent of making any differences for the relatively small Australian market.
The few 90s BMWs I've had are quite literally just RHD UK spec, and quite obviously so, often with the only difference being the fog lights removed...
Jacob O'Brien i’ve never gone thru and checked what parts are actually different on au version, but there definitely is a 722.359 Australia version specific set pages in the parts catalog. I still don’t know myself what the differences are. I would love to know though.
You can add a solenoid switch to the test port of the governor and activate the solenoid by running a wire to the kickdown.
Start out in 1st with kickdown.
Just got my 400e transmission apart using this video as a guide, found all sorts of play in the 1 and 4 pack which matches the problem of no first gear, hoping all goes well going back together
very helpful to see the aux pump dissasembled. now I have a clue what I'm looking for when I pul the cover on mine to replace the leaking o ring. I appreciate the video very much.
I rebuilt 400 to 450 of these transmissions. You should remove the valve body and replace pan before removing trans. I could remove, rebuild both clutch drums, planetary gears and
valve body. Install trans and out the door in 8 hrs. By myself. Had to reopen only one (reverse clearance was too tight) . Rebuilt type 1,2,3 and 4 trans.at MB Trans San
Diego. Thanks John for teaching me your skills
Thanks for the tip, i will do this next time 😃
How much do you charge to rebuild the transmission?
Very knowledgeable person and work
thank you! I will be doing the rebuild myself first time.
how did it go? im about to do it too.
hope You are safe from the fires
No fires at the moment in my state as far as im aware. There was one recently but was under control pretty quickly
Just got a ‘89 300CE LORINSER…198k total cream puff pristine interior sport wheel/seats..mono block AMG wheels with brand new tires Ice cold Ac here in az runs like a sewing machine 120mph butter smooth. I paid $800…I thought I was getting set up or robbed. I will post a total walk through of the car soon as I get the time. I still can’t believe it.
Man you are just amazing at explaining everything...my issue with the gearbox is a big clunck in the back when changing and actually it sprints me a bit forward if my foot is not on the gas still trying to troubleshoot it without opening the hole gearbox.All my Vaccum are ok but i cant find a vaccum modulator yet to try that fix.I have been told about the K1 k2 and B1 spring pistons but still i dont know what to do. All my filters and oil is brand new..I should mention if the im pressing the gas the changes are very smooth .But the car changes at 3500 rpm from 2-3 and 3-4 thats when the clunk is most agressive or when i hange from D to R multiple times and my bodween cable didnt do any difference yet...The car in this case is a w124 220e 1996 auto transsmision!..If you have any advice i would be honored to listen/read!
My suspicions are this W124 accumulated great part of its kilometres in highway driving if the friction discs still have that lot of material as you say, and if this one is still in factory conditions and wasn't ever rebuilt. There are chances your other W124 with far less kms had a worn tranny either because of towing heavy trailers or at some time the car was towed and no safety measures were taken as not to damage the gearbox.
Subject aside, I'd feel the need to share this: In my endless inquest for a budget W124, I encountered a battered but quite rare specimen 260E. This one came with full Sportline package (suspension, quicker steering and 7Jx15 plus smaller wheel and bucket rear seats), and, 717.433 manual transmission (alpaca grey leather seats).
I haven't been able to find any other similar 260E/300E Sportline with bucket seats and M/T on Google, so this one may be a [not valuable] unicorn. Car sits in horrible condition, but runs on a Ford carburettor because it has CNG (owner still has the KE-Jetronic system). The idea would be to have this car as a DIY budget project, and if things turn out to be much more complicated and very expensive, part it out and recoup the money.
Full description is in the following post if you are interested in giving your opinion on this one:
www.benzworld.org/threads/w124-260e-300e-sportline-m-t-disaster---purchasing-advice.3042975/#post-17927900
Apex Seal you are correct about highway miles, the owner i have documented history of did 100,000km+ driving 120km a day round trip to work. From his home to the airforce base the vast majority would have been cruising in 4th gear at between 80-110km/h. My blur black 124’s owner lived at the top of a huge hill plus it had the ability to tow. Regarding your sportline, im not sure how rare the seats are where you live but those sportline seats with individual rears are rare as hell. Hence why i went to the trouble of retrofitting to red. If you can get the car cheap enough id get it, even if you dont restore it you can put the interior and sportline steering box into something else. Absolutely would not hesitate *as long as its not expensive to purchase and you wont miss the money.
MMWA Probably, that is what I am thinking as a project. W124 are not so common to see here as they may be in the US or Europe, but I have NEVER seen any similar 260E/300E on the Internet with a similar combination (full Sportline w/ manual transmission), that's the only reason why I am considering the purchase. If you have seen the images on the post I made asking for advice on this MB forum, you'll see a horrible condition car. Paint on four fenders and bonnet is cloudy (almost to the point of being white) but not on roofline or boot. Driver seat left bolster is torn, has some sewings that ceased and several trim pieces falling off. If I could get a spray gun and 199 paint, I may try to respray it (I have a small airbrush compressor, not sure if it will work).
If it were a regular 300E A/T (or even M/T) in this conditions, I'll definitely run away, but as it's a rare version I consider it special, specifically because this is the factory spec and not a retrofitted unit, which I feel it makes a car (any car) more valuable. I know it's worth almost nothing as it is not a 500E, but feel mistakenly tempted to buy it, hopefully for a DIY project and not pouring endless money into it. If I can make it through without losing a cent (which I doubt), I'm fine.
Do check out the post and replies if you haven't already, there is plenty of info about it there and the pictures depict the car far more better than what I can come up to in words. Cheers!
So satisfying to watch:)!
You are the best.
My goodness! Sean tuning in from Atlanta. Phenomenal! You make it all look so easy.
I shall continue to follow so that the day I have to work on mine, these videos will be my guide.
Any special tools required?
I have done the 1st gear start modification and it does work, however the 1st to 2nd shift is hard, can become annoying therefore I installed a shift correction kit from eBay
I had a feeling this may be the case. What is involved with the kit ?
@@MMWA-DAVE Its a simple procedure, you have to remove the valve body to get access. For a Mercedes sedan luxury car you want soft shifts therefore I would only use the 1st to 2nd shift softening spring out of the whole kit, the other springs in the kit make the shift more firm which probably do not suit the luxury car feel. there is a good video here: ruclips.net/video/h9thWDLR5yo/видео.html
azir khan excellent. Thanks for letting me know
I was not aware of this mod, I wonder if this is my the 300TE I bought recently has a harsh 1-2 shift. So under normal driving is it only supposed to use 2-3-4?
@@mmmlinux Yes, the Mercedes transmission 722.3 and 722.4 (Non Electronic) transmissions are setup to operate: 2-3-4 and 1 gear only if you floor it from a standstill. Frankly I don't see the need for this modifications for daily driving.
So I tried to push on that sprung round cover (same one that exploded on you) and was able to push it in with little of effort with my bare hand. I did it because it was leaking in that area and i was just looking around, after that it wouldn't pop out by itself, so I had to drop the pan and apply some compressed air into some channel for that to pop out. Do you think I have those springs broken? Is it even possible? What could brake those?
OMG if YOU SEE THIS! Do you remember where that ball goes in the AUX pump. I'm not sure how to put it back together!
Does anyone have a theory on why the reverse clutches wear? And do they only wear when reverse gear is actually engaged?
Given the amount of time cars spend in reverse compared to forward gears you'd have thought they'd outlast everything else...
Jacob O'Brien my theory is the soft application of reverse. If it slammed in like many other cars do it probably wouldn’t ware the plates so much
@@MMWA-DAVE yeah fair point, do you reckon a higher line pressure would help?
Some people on forums have found that increasing the viscosity of the fluid helps a lot. I was thinking next time I service the 722.358 in my W140 I'll use Valvoline Maxlife synthetic ATF which restores the elasticity and function of old seals (proven with actually soaking old, dried seals in it, Vs regular Dex III) but it's on the thinner side so I was going to boost the viscosity with two bottles of Lucas transmission fix.
I have a sneaking feeling that this would be a perfect blend for these along with a new filter
👍👍👍 good job
I believe that same transmission is in the 190E is it not? I liked your video, for years I've been terrified to tear apart an automatic trans, but it appears to be very simple to overhaul. I'll keep your video saved in case I have to do it later. Also, how much did your master overhaul kit cost and where did you purchase it from?
722.4 series will be in the 190, it’s basically the same but smaller housing as the drums and frictions etc are a slightly smaller diameter. Oddly, 722.3 is the big case and 722.4 is the small case, then theres the 722.5 which is the big case with 5 speeds.
@@MMWA-DAVE Isnt the 722.6 the preferred performance gearbox ?
Paul Mc Brien indeed it is, with standalone controller and you can have “flappy paddle” shifting too.
@@MMWA-DAVE Oh Yeah Baby !!! 👀😜🤣 it's like everything Benz related though EXPENSIVE 😢
Hi I can tell from your accent you are an Aussie like me. I have a 722.319 transmission to rebuild. We’re can I buy the rebuild kits with friction plates
Great video. Can you beef up the clutch pack and valve body from V12 SL500 722.3?
i’m sure you can - but the m120 v12 is rare here in Australia and have never had access to one. R129 600 and W140 600 will have 722.3 presumably upto end of 1995 then went to 722.6 from 1996 like the others.
Hello thanks for sharing that you know. Sorry what size 8s the tool usted at 1.39 minute please. I am looking for, to remove this part from my 722.3 transmission. Regards
Hi! Thank you for this video. I am thinking of repairing my tran 722.4 (grinding in reverse and reverse slip when hot). Can you give a link where to buy good parts for this transmission here in Australia (or somewhere else, if applicable). Thanks!
Igor NIKONOV everything lately i just buy on eBay Australia. My blue black 124 had the grinding in reverse - the reverse piston on the back side of the front pump will be over extended due to the reverse frictions being worn out. Fortunately its all accessible from the front of the transmission. While you have the transmission out you should also replace the engines rear main seal - i was a dumbass and thought “she’ll be right” and didn’t. It now leaks and I regret not doing it.
@@MMWA-DAVE Thank you!
Thanks for the Video. The 722.1 transmission on my MB 280SE D-Jet has been idle for over a decade. I fixed my M110 engine and to my surprise the 722.1 gearbox worked normally. After 6 months he experienced this instability. The oil level is good. Is it an electrical or vacuum problem?
Are you sure that transmission isn't a MB rebuilt unit? There appears to be a tag on the lower left side of the bellhousing that normally is put on rebuilt units, not originals. Check and see what it says. One of my W140s has a tag that identifies it as rebuilt.
Jon Lowe i’ll have a look, but the serial number of this trans matches the data card so it’s the one it left the factory with. MB rebuilt units are so outrageously expensive here it would have only been a possibility when the car was near new and still worth a fortune - i have a lot of service history with the car from around 100k km to 200k km and the owner from 200k+ would not have spent that kind of money given how badly the car was allowed to deteriorate.
When they are rebuilt by MB, how does that happen? Is it from a customer that took it to a dealership, or is there a place you send your tranmission to a Mercedes Benz facility somewhere?
David C here in Australia it would have been orderable through the dealerships. I’m sure the cost was staggering too.
Great job, great videos. Always have a respect to the people who have a skillful fingers !!!
Also quick question (maybe not for the first time addressed to you) where from are you taking the appropriate documents?
Arsen Asatryan 722.3 rebuild instructions are on the internet free of charge if you look long enough. Even the ATSG manual which people charge for on ebay. The official MB manual is out there too but not as good in my opinion.
@@MMWA-DAVE Thanks and good luck.
I'm doing the same to my 560SL's box right now. Do you recall the throat depth of the screw clamp you used to remove the piston covers?
Hi nice video,I have one question though, You do sound exactly as an other guy who does pcb and electronics, that's you right!!!
i have a second channel working on vintage computers. I dont put much on either channel these days.
is it possible to replace all of the frictions disks without removing both bands (front and rear)?
No, at the very least the front one needs to come out to remove the entire rotating assembly. The band pistons should be getting new seals which are in the kit anyway
How to repair W140 722.3 seal leak ?
What is that black thing on the left side of the gear box that is connected with 2 pipes into the transmission? Mine doesn't work when starting from zero but works totally fine when I have picked up som speed. Just wondering if that thing need some +voltage to make the gearbox work
The small black box you can see at the lower left corner at 1:15
How challenging is this transmission rebuild for a DIYer? My 126 w the same transmission is slipping like crazy, fluid is black, and I’m thinking of doing the rebuild myself.
For context I’ve done clutches, timing belts, motor swaps, wheel bearings, etc.
Hope you stay around to answer my spare part question : is it a spare part kit that include all the parts you need for a job like you did on this transmission, if so do you have the P/N? Again, Thanks.
722.3 master rebuild kit - they are on ebay in my country, They may or may not include everything. And additional bits may also need to be purchased.
Hi can you help with a réf for a rebuild kit on the 722.357?
من فضلك محتاج كتالوج البودي بلف
Hello where could be find the bracket of B2 band. 11:11 minute. Regards
you can buy it from the dealer or anywhere that can order and sell genuine MB parts. Its not made aftermarket as far as im aware.
What brand of master kit do you recommend ? According to Turbo Bandit, those transmissions and the later 5 speed will happily accommodate 600 = HP !
So you only have to remove the valve body to complete the 1st gear start ? 🤞😊😍👀
Paul Mc Brien the first gear start modification is isolated to the valve body as far as im aware. Some 722.3 cars had first gear start from the factory, it’s annoying that the m104.980 which needs to rev was hampered with second gear start at all. As for the master kit I purchased mine on ebay from a company in Australia called trade alley, from memory. The kit is not just everything loose in a bag. Its sub kits for each module so its pretty hard to screw up. The ATSG manual is online and free too if you look hard enough, it steps through the entire rebuild process.
@@MMWA-DAVE Thanks for the reply. I love your work and talent. Ive learnt more from you than anybody else on the Net. ♥️
What manual did you use and where did you find it?
@@kameronrobinson6298 theres the atsg manual freely floating around the internet. google search for it.
Ok 😊
Hi can please tell me why my w124 1993 making clicking noise in reverse?
you need to rebuild the reverse clutch, your transmission is about to fail shortly,
Lets rename the project from red w124 to r124, it also saves a whole second :)
Heigo Heeringas my ocd couldnt handle this as R is reserved for things like the SL ;)
Merc-a-matic on the Gold Coast rebuilds Mercedes transmission.
i got another one and rebuilt that one as it was in much better condition
What year and make was this tranny removed from? I have an 88 300CE that needs a tranny rebuild. Looking for the process.
1990 was this car. 300E-24, M104.980 engine
Do you any experience dealing with any possible interchangeability of the 722.3 between the W124 & W126 chassis?
Not personally, but it has been done before by many. Just remember ALL w126's have electronic speedometers so some adaptation is required at the rear of the transmission. Only the v8 w124's had electronic speedometers, rest are mechanical.
@@MMWA-DAVE For sure. I've got the documentation on all that in front of me now. Once the budget is ready again, I'll be giving it a go for the 3rd time. I need to do a better job. I know there were a few things I missed in the previous 2 rebuilds.
Hey I just take my 722.3 trans out for leaks front seal. Will do a complete rebuild. Do recommend reusing the bands and torque converter?? If not do recommend using aftermarket if so what brand name ? Thanks . Best regards.
sonny singh dependant on the condition of the internals. If its still in good condition I wouldn’t do a rebuild or replace anything but seals. Just my opinion of course. The reverse frictions should be looked and and replaced if necessary, the rest will probably be fine if its in good condition. My donor transmission is from a running driving car. I wont be replacing bands or friction disks unnecessarily- I certainly wont be going to the expense of a new /refurbished torque converter either - because it already works fine.
MMWA thank you very much for your valid opinion. It’s my first trans rebuilt, and just the kinda information I was looking for to make my decision.already place order for all friction disc .You just save me a lot of money. This is a running car with just the leaks . 87 w124 with 266000 miles . Please send me your link for reinstalled video . Thanks again. Best regards.
sonny singh have a look on my community page i listed a a couple videos over 5 hours long of someone rebuilding their 722.4 - its very similar to the 722.3. Also with 266k milles it probably is ready for a full rebuild. My donor trans is 220k km which is 137k miles so should still be very good inside - i hope.
MMWA thanks again for your prompt response and support. I really appreciate it. Best regards
MMWA hello again. I ran into some delay finishing the transmission. All was going smooth until I realized I lost the damping spring that goes in front of the reverse clutch pack . I can not find a part number or place to order this spring. any link or part number will be greatly appreciated. best regards
I’ve got to ask, are there 1 or 2 transmission mounting in W124s?
ALEXANDER LEE there is just the one rubber mount at its rear
What do you guys say about fluid change on 722.6? Mine has never seen it and shifts very good (430K+ kilometers). I have heard some people complaining about shift quality after filter and fluid change.
never heard that. I only heard people complaining about shift quality when they don't change oil and filter.
@@frankthetank400 well i haven't done anything and shifts fine
@@edvardsz3539 maybe it only shifts fine for you, due you do not know the difference of how it should shift in good condition...fact is, Mercedes recommends transmission oil and filter to be changed every 60.000 km. and there is a reason for that. I would recommend to change yours, including draining the torque converter...
Were you a former mechanic to know how to do this to these cars?
David C never a mechanic, i work in i.t. Everything is self taught and the majority of the manuals are available online and free of charge if look long and hard enough.
This is not Mercedes 260 E , M103 for does who looks the one.
@@raul-mihai9524 260e uses 722.4, which is a smaller transmission than 722.3
Ok🥰😍👍
wish i could say the internals of my gearbox were the same. Unfortunately my C36 reverse gear fell apart and took out the rest of my gearbox. Some bastard in welshpool wanted $4k to fix it. When I told him 'no thanks' he charged my $1k for stripping it down.... Car hasn't run ever since..
Trent Dearlove which transmission does it have? Theres an MB specialist in Balcatta I cannot remember their name but they may be able to help. They are behind bunnings.
@@MMWA-DAVE 722.3. I'm just about to go and get the car this week and convert it to manual!
Trent Dearlove nice. Did you source a transmission already? MB manuals are bloody rare in AU
@@MMWA-DAVE hopefully get it up soon and come to a cars and coffee!
Trent Dearlove i’ve been to many, though every one i’ve been to I drive Kim’s blue 560sel.
Hello I have the same transmission and while driving and slowing down and to pick back up speed I get like a pounding what do you think about this?
ALEX BREDEWOUD im not familiar with this - if there is thumping noises id be checking the mounts and the flex disks for disintegration
@@MMWA-DAVE hello its more like a harsh down shift does not happens every time it's a 1988 transmission about 320000km on it
ALEX BREDEWOUD my friends 560sel does this every time slowing down to a stop and it drops into 2nd gear its a massive clunk. Its also a 722.3 and i think it is probably something like a spring broken in the valve body. We have not investigated it yet though