Dude, you are my frickin hero. I've spent so much time trying to figure this out but all the other videos are for VCarve, not carbide create, and I just don't have the time to trial and error this. I really appreciate it.
Thank you! Please feel free to email me. aetimberpine@gmail.com. But I hope this can help you if you decide to make it as well. I appreciate the comment.
This is awesome, I am new to CNC and this gave me a lot of inspiration and project ideas, being so new I could have used more explanation of some of the steps and settings you used and why. Thanks.
Thank you for checking it out! I still need to make the why video. I used Garrett Fromme’s settings (he has an inlay video) and I wanted to show how you can enter those settings in Carbide Create and he goes into a bit of the why and technical aspect. He goes through a feather inlay. Check it out. It’s good stuff. ruclips.net/video/Naxq3SbQH50/видео.html
starting the depth at .09 makes the dimensions correct at the .09 depth, thinner above that, and thicker below. That is how the design is the right size to it sits down into the pocket. So you are telling the machine 'I want this design to be just as I have modeled it at .09 of depth', which when you put down into the pocket is the surface (you are removing the additional .02 that sticks out above).
@@ShavedOnions thanks iandonlin9279, what you say seems to make sense, but i still can't grasp it. I think just need to do a "test" cut on a small practice inlay shape and see what it does (with my finger on the "stop" button!) Any other clarity may help others like me grasp the concept.
another great video. i definitely following and looking t all your videos. quick question, why did you have to run it 4 times for the male part? what went wrong?
mainly the workpiece moved during the carving of the male/plug part. So when it moved, it didn't fit correctly within the female/cutting board piece. Also once glued, the parts didn't glue correctly and so when surfacing the male part, there were some gaps between the parts. So lots of learning on this one but it was definitely a difficult project, which is expected as it was my first inlay project.
Great video!! I don’t have those fancy claps I see other videos show but I have the ones you have so I will give it a try. I have a cnc so I can do the the flattening part.
Awesome! You can make it too then! One day I’ll get some more clamps but haven’t had the need to invest just yet. It’s very easy to flatten the board surprisingly. Check out the video on that if you haven’t yet.
Nice lesson, Can you share the set up you have for the spoiled board tool in Carbide Create, and also how you program the toolpath you created. I am a newbie on this too and would like to understand better how to remoe the excess with that tool. Thanks in advance
great video< would like to know how you got the design into the program. im having a terrible time trying to get anything into the program to work with. thank you
Hey Rich, Simply import the SVG file from your computer. I’m carbide create, in the left hand side you’ll see a bunch of options (tools). Towards the bottom left there is a folder looking icon. This is import. Click on that it should bring up your File Explorer. Go to your file and open it. That should bring it to the screen and you can start working with it. Hope this helps.
That turned out awesome, gotta ask where you found the Jack and Sally art at. My wife would really like for me to make her one like that. TIA. Well done 👍
Thank you Richard I appreciate it! I found the SVG design in Etsy. A quick “jack and sally SVG” will get you a bunch of results. I just checked and there were some bundles available.
Thanks Ken. You need to purchase an SVG file. You find many on Etsy. You can also search an SVG file for what you’re wanting to carve. Once in Carbide Create you should see the import option on the lower left hand side of your setup options. It should be a folder with an arrow in it if I’m not mistaken. Hope that answers the question.
I am trying to make the exact same cutting board for my daughter in law for Christmas, she loves nightmare before Christmas .however I am having trouble on the VCarve. The lines are so teeny tiny that the inlay will not fit in. Is there a difference in the image? Did you manipulate it before doing the inlay? If so could I purchase it for you?
What settings did you use for the v bit on the male piece? Was it the same as the female piece or was it the stock settings for the #302 bit? They are very different.
When you do an advanced v-carve, how do you know which bit to use first. The end mill or the v-bit? May sound like a dumb question but it shows two different bits on the same file path so that is confusing as to which to use first. It may tell you which bit to using carbide 3d but I don't use that.
Great question. Yeah sometimes it’s good to just get clarity…and faster lol. The advance vcarve will start with the endmill first to “clear” out material. It’s essentially a pocket toolpath. You’ll hear others call it a clearing toolpath. But it’s getting material out of the way. Then the vbit will go and get the finer details.
@@MrAngrytom no, because it is an advanced vcarve toolpath. And to run the advanced vcarve toolpath (according to Carbide 3D) you need the bitsetter, which I use. Using the bitsetter ensures your bits are all set to the same z-axis. With that said, there are those that do know how to modify the advanced vcarve g-code to be able to seperate the two (endmill toolpath/vcarve toolpath) which would then allow you to set your z-axis again when you switch to the v-bit. If you have a bitsetter make sure it’s enabled and you have the correct post processor selected. The program will prompt you to switch over to the vbit after the endmill toolpath
I used both tools. The advanced vcarve allows for two tools. The 60 deg vbit finishes your design. Check out this video on a vcarve job. ruclips.net/video/WYNRVbd5zCo/видео.htmlsi=vJO5mseVknsNamzd
- make sure you’re image is mirrored. - make sure your start depth is .09 when carving the male piece - make sure to use the same bits you used for the pocket. - make sure your belts are tight to ensure you got good carves. - make sure you’re using the advanced vcarve toolpath - slow down the vbit and consider using the default speeds These are just a few suggestions I could think of.
Hey nats, it’s the advanced vcarve toolpath that allows for this. When you select the advanced vcarve toolpath select “enable pocket tool”. I usually use an endmill and then finish off the design with a 60 deg vbit. You will be the bitsetter to run the advanced vcarve (per carbide 3D)
I’m a little confused on how the program knew to inverse the svg in the maple? Just because you set depth to start at .09” everything inverse? Sorry I’m missing something
There is a mirror option/tool. Select your image and there is an option on the left hand side to “mirror” the image. It’s the tool with a line running through the middle of two polygons.
@@aetimberpine I appreciate the reply, I’m actually talking about how I’m the pocket toolpath the vector is carved into t he walnut but on the maple it is protuding the opposite parts so it fits into the walnut? I don’t see what you did for it to be opposite
@@joshkertcher check time stamp 5:39. But yes you’re right, starting the cut at .09 gives you protruding output. And the offset allows for you to be able to cut out just that area.
That’s a good question. You’ll need to use an advanced vcarve toolpath which is setup in carbide creates You need to have the bit setter and have it enabled. You’ll enable it in carbide motion once you connect to cutter but before initializing the machine. It can be found in the settings option in the upper right.
@@aetimberpine ok, but the machine will stop? or i need to be nearby while the gcode is running and then stop the code ? i have the spindle connected to manual steering .
Your design or the vector that you wanted to be pocketed was probably too small for the endmill. I get that too when i have a small vector that needs a flat bottom.
This design was form Etsy. If I can’t make it myself I’ll usually get them off of Etsy or eBay. Ill use silhouette studio (business edition) or carbide create to make my own SVGs. ruclips.net/video/AqCZqf9OzkE/видео.html
Be careful ripping on your tablesaw like that. You want to push the cut piece all the way through as leaving it between the fence and blade can lead to a kick back. Without a riving knife that would be a kickback almost every time but even with it you can still get kickback.
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saved this so I can watch it 30 times then hopefully by then I can try this out on my own! Thanks a million for posting this!!!
Thank you! There’s lots of good videos out there. I appreciate you checking this one out!
This entire video simplified the process of both inlays and carbide create!! THANK YOU!!!
Glad it helped Brian!
Dude, you are my frickin hero. I've spent so much time trying to figure this out but all the other videos are for VCarve, not carbide create, and I just don't have the time to trial and error this. I really appreciate it.
Thanks for checking it out man I appreciate it!
I haven't started to get into inlays yet but your video explains a lot.
Amazing. I must have one. Our daughter and her husband are big fans of Sally and Jack.
Thank you! Please feel free to email me. aetimberpine@gmail.com.
But I hope this can help you if you decide to make it as well.
I appreciate the comment.
Great video. Very straight forward and showing the end result makes me believe in the process you outlined. Thanks!
I appreciate it David!
Awesome video & super easy to follow - great job!! Also loved the cutting board inlay and the fact you showed how to achieve this with Carbide Create.
Great video. Thank you for the explanation on how to do the inlay! This method is much better than the one I've been using!
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for checking out the video and your comment.
Thanks so much for this video! It was very concise and to the point. I can finally add the inlay options to my projects.
Glad this will give you more options to offer!
Thanks for checking out the video!
This is awesome, I am new to CNC and this gave me a lot of inspiration and project ideas, being so new I could have used more explanation of some of the steps and settings you used and why. Thanks.
Thank you for checking it out! I still need to make the why video. I used Garrett Fromme’s settings (he has an inlay video) and I wanted to show how you can enter those settings in Carbide Create and he goes into a bit of the why and technical aspect. He goes through a feather inlay.
Check it out. It’s good stuff.
ruclips.net/video/Naxq3SbQH50/видео.html
I needed this tutorial. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Great video. I don’t understand the .09 start depth for the plug. Aren’t you still starting at your zero height?
It’s hard to explain and might just show you guys soon.
starting the depth at .09 makes the dimensions correct at the .09 depth, thinner above that, and thicker below. That is how the design is the right size to it sits down into the pocket. So you are telling the machine 'I want this design to be just as I have modeled it at .09 of depth', which when you put down into the pocket is the surface (you are removing the additional .02 that sticks out above).
@@ShavedOnions thanks iandonlin9279, what you say seems to make sense, but i still can't grasp it. I think just need to do a "test" cut on a small practice inlay shape and see what it does (with my finger on the "stop" button!) Any other clarity may help others like me grasp the concept.
Nice Job Brother.
Amazing job!!!!! Thank you for sharing.
Thank you! I appreciate you checking it out!
another great video. i definitely following and looking t all your videos. quick question, why did you have to run it 4 times for the male part? what went wrong?
mainly the workpiece moved during the carving of the male/plug part. So when it moved, it didn't fit correctly within the female/cutting board piece.
Also once glued, the parts didn't glue correctly and so when surfacing the male part, there were some gaps between the parts.
So lots of learning on this one but it was definitely a difficult project, which is expected as it was my first inlay project.
Great video!! I don’t have those fancy claps I see other videos show but I have the ones you have so I will give it a try. I have a cnc so I can do the the flattening part.
Awesome! You can make it too then! One day I’ll get some more clamps but haven’t had the need to invest just yet.
It’s very easy to flatten the board surprisingly. Check out the video on that if you haven’t yet.
Nice lesson, Can you share the set up you have for the spoiled board tool in Carbide Create, and also how you program the toolpath you created. I am a newbie on this too and would like to understand better how to remoe the excess with that tool. Thanks in advance
Got it in your other video Thanks.
Great! Glad I had that covered! Thanks for checking it out!
great video< would like to know how you got the design into the program. im having a terrible time trying to get anything into the program to work with. thank you
Hey Rich,
Simply import the SVG file from your computer.
I’m carbide create, in the left hand side you’ll see a bunch of options (tools). Towards the bottom left there is a folder looking icon. This is import. Click on that it should bring up your File Explorer. Go to your file and open it. That should bring it to the screen and you can start working with it. Hope this helps.
That turned out awesome, gotta ask where you found the Jack and Sally art at. My wife would really like for me to make her one like that. TIA. Well done 👍
Thank you Richard I appreciate it!
I found the SVG design in Etsy. A quick “jack and sally SVG” will get you a bunch of results. I just checked and there were some bundles available.
@@aetimberpine thank you
Great video. Can you tell me where you import the art. Appreciate the help.
Thanks Ken.
You need to purchase an SVG file. You find many on Etsy. You can also search an SVG file for what you’re wanting to carve.
Once in Carbide Create you should see the import option on the lower left hand side of your setup options. It should be a folder with an arrow in it if I’m not mistaken.
Hope that answers the question.
I am trying to make the exact same cutting board for my daughter in law for Christmas, she loves nightmare before Christmas .however I am having trouble on the VCarve. The lines are so teeny tiny that the inlay will not fit in. Is there a difference in the image? Did you manipulate it before doing the inlay? If so could I purchase it for you?
Hi jmjmusser
I did not do anything to there. I’d say just slow down the carve. Hope you have gotten it dialed in. Merry Christmas.
What settings did you use for the v bit on the male piece? Was it the same as the female piece or was it the stock settings for the #302 bit? They are very different.
Hey John, yes I kept that the same as the female settings (for the vbit).
Good catch. I’ll update my description to include the settings.
When you do an advanced v-carve, how do you know which bit to use first. The end mill or the v-bit?
May sound like a dumb question but it shows two different bits on the same file path so that is confusing as to which to use first.
It may tell you which bit to using carbide 3d but I don't use that.
Great question. Yeah sometimes it’s good to just get clarity…and faster lol.
The advance vcarve will start with the endmill first to “clear” out material. It’s essentially a pocket toolpath. You’ll hear others call it a clearing toolpath. But it’s getting material out of the way. Then the vbit will go and get the finer details.
@@aetimberpine thx
@@aetimberpine When switching between the endmill and the vbit does Carbide give you the opportunity to re-zero your Z axis?
@@MrAngrytom no, because it is an advanced vcarve toolpath.
And to run the advanced vcarve toolpath (according to Carbide 3D) you need the bitsetter, which I use.
Using the bitsetter ensures your bits are all set to the same z-axis.
With that said, there are those that do know how to modify the advanced vcarve g-code to be able to seperate the two (endmill toolpath/vcarve toolpath) which would then allow you to set your z-axis again when you switch to the v-bit.
If you have a bitsetter make sure it’s enabled and you have the correct post processor selected. The program will prompt you to switch over to the vbit after the endmill toolpath
If one bit was 1/8 end mill and the other a v bit won’t that create a void when the pieces come together?
I used both tools. The advanced vcarve allows for two tools. The 60 deg vbit finishes your design. Check out this video on a vcarve job.
ruclips.net/video/WYNRVbd5zCo/видео.htmlsi=vJO5mseVknsNamzd
Here’s another video that may help.
ruclips.net/video/yef-mo3ier0/видео.htmlsi=R6iuILdWjr5Z5B0t
Im having issues with the inlay ,matching the Vcarve pocket. Using a 90deg Vbit. Is there something I'm missing?
- make sure you’re image is mirrored.
- make sure your start depth is .09 when carving the male piece
- make sure to use the same bits you used for the pocket.
- make sure your belts are tight to ensure you got good carves.
- make sure you’re using the advanced vcarve toolpath
- slow down the vbit and consider using the default speeds
These are just a few suggestions I could think of.
How do you change the end mill to v bit without having to re zero z axis
Hey nats, it’s the advanced vcarve toolpath that allows for this. When you select the advanced vcarve toolpath select “enable pocket tool”. I usually use an endmill and then finish off the design with a 60 deg vbit.
You will be the bitsetter to run the advanced vcarve (per carbide 3D)
Oh I don't have a bit setter
I’m a little lost. Did you use a 1/8 end mill or a 60 degree v bit?
1/8 clearance and 60 vbit
I’m a little confused on how the program knew to inverse the svg in the maple? Just because you set depth to start at .09” everything inverse? Sorry I’m missing something
There is a mirror option/tool. Select your image and there is an option on the left hand side to “mirror” the image. It’s the tool with a line running through the middle of two polygons.
@@aetimberpine I appreciate the reply, I’m actually talking about how I’m the pocket toolpath the vector is carved into t he walnut but on the maple it is protuding the opposite parts so it fits into the walnut? I don’t see what you did for it to be opposite
@@joshkertcher check time stamp 5:39.
But yes you’re right, starting the cut at .09 gives you protruding output. And the offset allows for you to be able to cut out just that area.
maybe a stupid question, but im begginer, and how should i know when to stop the machine and change the bit?
That’s a good question.
You’ll need to use an advanced vcarve toolpath which is setup in carbide creates
You need to have the bit setter and have it enabled.
You’ll enable it in carbide motion once you connect to cutter but before initializing the machine.
It can be found in the settings option in the upper right.
@@aetimberpine ok, but the machine will stop? or i need to be nearby while the gcode is running and then stop the code ? i have the spindle connected to manual steering .
What are the characters names in the inlay. I have seen them before somewhere.
They’re Jack and Sally from The Nightmare Before Christmas
Can I ask what software you use?
Hey Hendrik, used carbide create for this.
hm my advanced v-carve skipped my pocket tool even when its checked
Your design or the vector that you wanted to be pocketed was probably too small for the endmill.
I get that too when i have a small vector that needs a flat bottom.
Where do you get the designs from?
This design was form Etsy.
If I can’t make it myself I’ll usually get them off of Etsy or eBay.
Ill use silhouette studio (business edition) or carbide create to make my own SVGs.
ruclips.net/video/AqCZqf9OzkE/видео.html
Be careful ripping on your tablesaw like that. You want to push the cut piece all the way through as leaving it between the fence and blade can lead to a kick back. Without a riving knife that would be a kickback almost every time but even with it you can still get kickback.
I had to go back and see what I was doing. That’s a good point. Anything could move it into the blade and could kick back. Thanks for the feedback!
Jealous that your Home Depot carries walnut and maple, ones near me only carry red oak and popular in the hardwood section.
I like how it’s pretty much ready to go but I think a lumber yard would probably be more economical.