I tried a similar test, but without total submersion. Also with & without fuel stabilisation juice. The difficult part was allowing atmospheric moisture absorption while preventing fuel evaporation. I left it 3 months and concluded nothing very confidently, although the addition of fuel stabiliser had a negative affect on corrosion.
I didnt try to prevent moisture absorption but it just never seemed to happen so maybe it just doesnt in the real world. I have another test underway with the fuel outside in my log bin, so its under cover and in the dark but a very humid next few months in the southern uk. As the stabiliser, I dropped in a fuel diamond block, which I believe to be pure snake oil. Todd at Project Farm has a great fuel stabiliser test.
Good. I told a mate I was now putting e10 in my 2021 Kawasaki and he said I really shouldn’t. O ring damage would happen. If e10 was damaging newer o rings, it’d be visible by now on this test.
There's a lot of misinformation regarding E10, and even if it did contain the full 10%, it would still be very dilute. Of course there are those that will say it's continuous wetting and drying that causes the rubber to perish, but most O rings have been made from Viton for many years, which is highly resistant to ethanol. My test was not truly scientific, but it did show that nothing bad happened.
i think a test like this should be done with new fuel every month or so like in a normal case of using your car, unless you are storing your car for over a year.
This was a test of pump petrol as it comes, and who is stupid enough to put water in their fuel tank. This test showed there was no water absorbed from the atmosphere over the 1 year duration.
E10 has a shelf life of just three months in a tightly sealed container, so your test is really just a 3 month test, cars and bikes using E10 would probably fill up every week or so with new fresh fuel which would have a much greater impact of the deterioration of those plastic parts you tested. The MK2 AMAL Stay up float is already ethanol resistant as is your new petrol line, a new test with weekly fuel changes using "Old" carb parts would be a better test to run. NOTE: All AMAL Products post 2012 are ethanol resistant.
I tested the new stay up float because I thought I had purchased a counterfeit that looked cheaply 3d printed by a schoolkid in his bedroom. I now have a new Wassell Evolution carb that has the same float so I now know it's genuine. The other float is from a 1960s Amal monobloc from my old Bantam. I will try a different brand of fuel that people say to avoid and try some parts in it with a fuel change every week to keep the solvent fresh.
E10 doesn't have a shelf life of three months, gasoline may have a shelf life of three months. Ethanol never goes bad. So if there's something about E10 that goes bad, it's because of the gasoline.
It proved to me that it didnt disolve anything that I stored in it. However, there might well have been zero ethanol in the fuel despite the label on the pump saying E10. I will find a brand that people say to avoid and try to achieve a different result.
@@thra5herxb12s some chemistry or experimental knowledge would really help you. First, the rubber bits you immersed (viton) is known to be stable in E10. Try it with older o-rings not made from the same material and see what happens. Second, you have removed oxygen from the equation which nullifies everything. Third, metal, even if immersed in distilled water will not corrode without oxygen, fourth, a sealed jam jar is not the same as a gas tank (which is vented), fifth, you took no before-after measurements. "Looks good to me" is not very accurate, also, you have no control treatment with which to compare so you did not really learn anything. All the things I learned in school science to be "conclusively proven" have now been conclusively disproven. Finally, you have no octane measurements before and after to see what has happened to the fuel. I'll bet you could safely put that stuff into a kerosene lamp.
People were claiming it was rotting the rubber parts in their new motorbikes despite the makers claims that the bikes are suitable for ethanol, and that was on the first day of its introduction at the UK pumps. This shows it dissolved no modern or vintage parts. The jars are not air tight and the earlier videos show the gradual breakdown of the fuel by the colour change, but no adverse effects to to components within. The blowlamp test also showed that the fuel was barely combustible so a precise octane measurement was not needed. The test shows that nothing bad happened.
I tried a similar test, but without total submersion. Also with & without fuel stabilisation juice. The difficult part was allowing atmospheric moisture absorption while preventing fuel evaporation. I left it 3 months and concluded nothing very confidently, although the addition of fuel stabiliser had a negative affect on corrosion.
I didnt try to prevent moisture absorption but it just never seemed to happen so maybe it just doesnt in the real world. I have another test underway with the fuel outside in my log bin, so its under cover and in the dark but a very humid next few months in the southern uk. As the stabiliser, I dropped in a fuel diamond block, which I believe to be pure snake oil. Todd at Project Farm has a great fuel stabiliser test.
Good. I told a mate I was now putting e10 in my 2021 Kawasaki and he said I really shouldn’t. O ring damage would happen. If e10 was damaging newer o rings, it’d be visible by now on this test.
There's a lot of misinformation regarding E10, and even if it did contain the full 10%, it would still be very dilute. Of course there are those that will say it's continuous wetting and drying that causes the rubber to perish, but most O rings have been made from Viton for many years, which is highly resistant to ethanol. My test was not truly scientific, but it did show that nothing bad happened.
Nice one, at least now Im not afraid to put it in my vintage scooter..👍
i think a test like this should be done with new fuel every month or so like in a normal case of using your car, unless you are storing your car for over a year.
Doesn't ethanol naturally attract water and that's why the test should be done with some water added.
This was a test of pump petrol as it comes, and who is stupid enough to put water in their fuel tank. This test showed there was no water absorbed from the atmosphere over the 1 year duration.
E10 has a shelf life of just three months in a tightly sealed container, so your test is really just a 3 month test, cars and bikes using E10 would probably fill up every week or so with new fresh fuel which would have a much greater impact of the deterioration of those plastic parts you tested. The MK2 AMAL Stay up float is already ethanol resistant as is your new petrol line, a new test with weekly fuel changes using "Old" carb parts would be a better test to run. NOTE: All AMAL Products post 2012 are ethanol resistant.
I tested the new stay up float because I thought I had purchased a counterfeit that looked cheaply 3d printed by a schoolkid in his bedroom. I now have a new Wassell Evolution carb that has the same float so I now know it's genuine. The other float is from a 1960s Amal monobloc from my old Bantam. I will try a different brand of fuel that people say to avoid and try some parts in it with a fuel change every week to keep the solvent fresh.
E10 doesn't have a shelf life of three months, gasoline may have a shelf life of three months. Ethanol never goes bad. So if there's something about E10 that goes bad, it's because of the gasoline.
interesting but does not really prove anything except that old fuel is still somewhat flamable.
It proved to me that it didnt disolve anything that I stored in it. However, there might well have been zero ethanol in the fuel despite the label on the pump saying E10. I will find a brand that people say to avoid and try to achieve a different result.
@@thra5herxb12s some chemistry or experimental knowledge would really help you. First, the rubber bits you immersed (viton) is known to be stable in E10. Try it with older o-rings not made from the same material and see what happens. Second, you have removed oxygen from the equation which nullifies everything. Third, metal, even if immersed in distilled water will not corrode without oxygen, fourth, a sealed jam jar is not the same as a gas tank (which is vented), fifth, you took no before-after measurements. "Looks good to me" is not very accurate, also, you have no control treatment with which to compare so you did not really learn anything. All the things I learned in school science to be "conclusively proven" have now been conclusively disproven. Finally, you have no octane measurements before and after to see what has happened to the fuel. I'll bet you could safely put that stuff into a kerosene lamp.
People were claiming it was rotting the rubber parts in their new motorbikes despite the makers claims that the bikes are suitable for ethanol, and that was on the first day of its introduction at the UK pumps. This shows it dissolved no modern or vintage parts. The jars are not air tight and the earlier videos show the gradual breakdown of the fuel by the colour change, but no adverse effects to to components within. The blowlamp test also showed that the fuel was barely combustible so a precise octane measurement was not needed. The test shows that nothing bad happened.