Thanks! All the other videos have the front end removed. You showed me I can do the radiator core support bushings with an assembled car. 1968 GM a-Body. I will give it a go!
Yeah, we just did some too on a '72 we worked on for a TV show. Not a hard job really but you have to take so much other stuff apart to get to them that it takes a while. Good luck with your project!
Hi just wanted to say I love your videos they're great. I have a question how hard it would it be to swap a 1954 Chevy cab on a early 2000s pick up chassis not really sure if it'll fit with wise I know I got to redo the mounting brackets and figure out the steering making sure it doesn't hit anything. Any input would help.
It would be difficult to swap the '54 onto a 2000's chassis. Lots of people are doing this type of swap, but they typically use a S10 chassis because it is narrower.
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV thank you for your input I appreciate it that's what I was figuring I'll let my nephew know we would have to go a different direction.
Good idea about noting if one or more of your corners has extra washer for spacer on the top of the top located rubber bushing. When I did mine I found some relatively serious rust on the top surface of the left rear perch. It had a extra washer there, which I thought should have been on top. Anyway I cleaned the rust off and applied some ospho then painted . With These videos I am going to send bro some business.... 👍
You can never predict what you'll run into when you're working on these old trucks. You really have to just dig in and see where it leads you. We hope you're enjoying the project, looking forward to doing some business with you. Thanks for always watching!
John, call the shop and ask for Alex (Sales Manager), he'll take care of you and make sure your concerns are met and we earn your trust. We've helped literally 1000's of Classic Truck owners that have been working on their projects during the COVID Pandemic, and even with the challenges, we've managed to keep a 99%+ satisfaction rate. 800-977-2767
Help, I’m hung up! Doing 66 c10 pans, inner outer, never done cab mount bracket before. I drilled spot welds with cutter, can slide seam buster on top of cab mount bracket all way up to welded floor pan brace, but cannot get the old rusty mount out. Have entire bushing assy removed, drove bushings out from under neath. Is there a spot weld on the very bottom I’m missing. The r do they just freeze in there that good. I’m mildly getting on it with 4 lb hammer, zero movement. Is it tacked all the way at back to the frame support it butts into? The floorpan is completely loose from the cab brace.
No, I found what’s wrong. Factory cab mount bracket has tabs welded to inner frame mount. Those tabs are non existent on repro cab mount. I guess I’m using wrong nomenclature, I always thought cab mount was the metal piece, and the rubber donuts were called bushings whereas you use terminology cab mount for the rubber donut package. I’m talking about entire removal and replacement of stock metal cab frame mount, or bracket if you’d prefer, that runs inner fender to floor brace and bushing installs underneath. But I’m resolving by leaving the inner couple inches intact and cutting my repro cab mount frame bracket shorter and welding to orig couple inches of bracket still attached between bushing hole and floor pan brace.
@@whatposterman1222 Excellent solution for your situation! This is a perfect example of doing what needs to be done on YOUR project. Great work and feedback!
Completely different for a C20, however a conversion is available since 3/4 ton mounts aren't currently available. Here's a link: www.brotherstrucks.com/1963-66-CHEVY_GMC-TRUCK-3_4-TO-1_2-TON-CAB-MOUNT-CONVERSION/productinfo/CMCK366/
The washer is more or less a spacer and an insulator. If you choose not to use it on one bushing, then we would recommend you don't use it on the other bushings either.
Can these be used for the front end as well? I'm restoring a 66 and my front end is "taking a nose dive." I think it's because the front mounts are missing.
No they can't be used for the front, but we do sell the front bushing kit as well. Here's a link: www.brotherstrucks.com/1960-68-CHEVY_GMC-TRUCK-RADIATOR-CORE-SUPPORT-MOUNT-SET/productinfo/RSB6068/
I have bought some nylon ( I think that's what are) cab mounts for my truck. What is your opinion of them? And do they mount different from the factory ones?
They are slightly firmer than the factory ones, and some people claim to be able to tell the difference. We've never experienced a different feel, and if anything, they make it easier to get and exact line up of other body panels that attache to the cab, like your fenders and hood.
Is the frame level? If the frame is level and the cab isn't, then its going to need some shims in the cab mounts. I BOTH the frame AND cab are not level, then it's probably your torsion bars or rear suspension.
First I love all the helpful videos. I have a 57 Chevy that was originally a V6 but now has a V8. I’m doing a restoration and was looking for V8 motor mounts that would work on my truck. The catalog shows V8 mounts for V8 equipped truck. What will work on a truck that was originally a V6.
@@deanmendez2626 if they are front mounts then the stock type V8 mounts we sell will work. Yours should look like these: www.brotherstrucks.com/55-59-ORIGINAL-V8-MOTOR-MOUNT-SET/productinfo/ESM5559/ . If you have any other questions, or need to sort this out more, please call our Customer Service guys @ 800-977-2767. They all know their stuff and will surely be able to help.
BROTHERS Truck Parts everything looks right except the bottom brackets. On mine it’s bolted to the crossmember ( no bottom bracket ) wish I could send a pic to y’all.
Nothing planned at the moment. We'd suggest you start by replacing the bed mounting pads because they are typically worn out (they were rubber). After that check to make sure your tailgate doesn't have any unusual amount of play.
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV I want to do my 71 C10 but I'm curious about the bolt removal. Is there access on the cab floor or do you need to cut a hole to pull the bolt through?
@@tylerljungberg4607 You don't need to cut a hole, almost the exact same procedure as what you see here. We'll be doing a 67-72 cab mount install video soon too.
BROTHERS Truck Parts awesome! When you do, please show the part where the bolt is dropped through the top because I’m not sure what that will look like without ripping up my carpet
Thanks! All the other videos have the front end removed. You showed me I can do the radiator core support bushings with an assembled car. 1968 GM a-Body. I will give it a go!
When I did this to mine I Cleaned sanded and repainted between the frame and cab because I'm doing a restoration, turned out amazing
Excellent!
Mine need redone, but cab support braces themselves have rusted in a few spots 😬. Gotta pull the cab and weld in new ones.
Yeah, we just did some too on a '72 we worked on for a TV show. Not a hard job really but you have to take so much other stuff apart to get to them that it takes a while. Good luck with your project!
Great video! Need one for the urethane mounts I bought from you guys for my 70 Blazer!
We'll work on that! Thanks for watching!
Hi just wanted to say I love your videos they're great. I have a question how hard it would it be to swap a 1954 Chevy cab on a early 2000s pick up chassis not really sure if it'll fit with wise I know I got to redo the mounting brackets and figure out the steering making sure it doesn't hit anything. Any input would help.
It would be difficult to swap the '54 onto a 2000's chassis. Lots of people are doing this type of swap, but they typically use a S10 chassis because it is narrower.
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV thank you for your input I appreciate it that's what I was figuring I'll let my nephew know we would have to go a different direction.
thank you so much for your video ,im doing my mounts on my 63 and this inf helps!
Our pleasure, thanks for watching!
Good idea about noting if one or more of your corners has extra washer for spacer on the top of the top located rubber bushing.
When I did mine I found some relatively serious rust on the top surface of the left rear perch. It had a extra washer there, which I thought should have been on top.
Anyway I cleaned the rust off and applied some ospho then painted .
With These videos I am going to send bro some business....
👍
You can never predict what you'll run into when you're working on these old trucks. You really have to just dig in and see where it leads you. We hope you're enjoying the project, looking forward to doing some business with you. Thanks for always watching!
Love your videos, thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
Love your videos. How many body bushing are on a 1964 Chevy suburban though?
The main question is do the 3/4 ton trucks use the same bushings as the 1/2 ton? And same from chevy to gmc?
3/4 ton use a different bushing, however it is the same from Chevy to GMC.
I love the video my question is that l have a 3/4 ton GMC does brother have a kit for a 1984 2500 series
Yes, we have them for the Standard cab as well as the Crew cab. Here's a link: www.brotherstrucks.com/Urethane-Cab-Mounts/products/2399/
John, call the shop and ask for Alex (Sales Manager), he'll take care of you and make sure your concerns are met and we earn your trust. We've helped literally 1000's of Classic Truck owners that have been working on their projects during the COVID Pandemic, and even with the challenges, we've managed to keep a 99%+ satisfaction rate. 800-977-2767
Help, I’m hung up! Doing 66 c10 pans, inner outer, never done cab mount bracket before. I drilled spot welds with cutter, can slide seam buster on top of cab mount bracket all way up to welded floor pan brace, but cannot get the old rusty mount out. Have entire bushing assy removed, drove bushings out from under neath. Is there a spot weld on the very bottom I’m missing. The r do they just freeze in there that good. I’m mildly getting on it with 4 lb hammer, zero movement. Is it tacked all the way at back to the frame support it butts into? The floorpan is completely loose from the cab brace.
So the problem you're having is getting the bolt out of the cab mount? We're not completely understanding what's stuck?
No, I found what’s wrong. Factory cab mount bracket has tabs welded to inner frame mount. Those tabs are non existent on repro cab mount.
I guess I’m using wrong nomenclature, I always thought cab mount was the metal piece, and the rubber donuts were called bushings whereas you use terminology cab mount for the rubber donut package. I’m talking about entire removal and replacement of stock metal cab frame mount, or bracket if you’d prefer, that runs inner fender to floor brace and bushing installs underneath.
But I’m resolving by leaving the inner couple inches intact and cutting my repro cab mount frame bracket shorter and welding to orig couple inches of bracket still attached between bushing hole and floor pan brace.
@@whatposterman1222 Excellent solution for your situation! This is a perfect example of doing what needs to be done on YOUR project. Great work and feedback!
Is this the same kit for a c/20? if not could you provide info on what is needed.
Completely different for a C20, however a conversion is available since 3/4 ton mounts aren't currently available. Here's a link: www.brotherstrucks.com/1963-66-CHEVY_GMC-TRUCK-3_4-TO-1_2-TON-CAB-MOUNT-CONVERSION/productinfo/CMCK366/
So do I always use the washer the truck came with from the factory even if some of the others don't have one sir?
The washer is more or less a spacer and an insulator. If you choose not to use it on one bushing, then we would recommend you don't use it on the other bushings either.
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV ok gotcha thanks once again 👍🏼👍🏼
Can these be used for the front end as well? I'm restoring a 66 and my front end is "taking a nose dive." I think it's because the front mounts are missing.
No they can't be used for the front, but we do sell the front bushing kit as well. Here's a link: www.brotherstrucks.com/1960-68-CHEVY_GMC-TRUCK-RADIATOR-CORE-SUPPORT-MOUNT-SET/productinfo/RSB6068/
I have bought some nylon ( I think that's what are) cab mounts for my truck. What is your opinion of them? And do they mount different from the factory ones?
They are slightly firmer than the factory ones, and some people claim to be able to tell the difference. We've never experienced a different feel, and if anything, they make it easier to get and exact line up of other body panels that attache to the cab, like your fenders and hood.
Is there a torque spec for poly cab bushings ?
If the cab is not level, could it be the torsion bars (1960)? If so how do I adjust them?
Is the frame level? If the frame is level and the cab isn't, then its going to need some shims in the cab mounts. I BOTH the frame AND cab are not level, then it's probably your torsion bars or rear suspension.
Is this the same bushing kit I'd use for a 66 suburban? I need help
Call the shop and we'll get you setup with the right parts! 800-977-2767
First I love all the helpful videos. I have a 57 Chevy that was originally a V6 but now has a V8. I’m doing a restoration and was looking for V8 motor mounts that would work on my truck. The catalog shows V8 mounts for V8 equipped truck. What will work on a truck that was originally a V6.
Is your V8 currently mounted with side mounts or front mounts? Basically, how was it converted to a V8 already?
BROTHERS Truck Parts they are front mounts, just behind the fan. Not sure when it was converted but it was a long time ago.
@@deanmendez2626 if they are front mounts then the stock type V8 mounts we sell will work. Yours should look like these: www.brotherstrucks.com/55-59-ORIGINAL-V8-MOTOR-MOUNT-SET/productinfo/ESM5559/ . If you have any other questions, or need to sort this out more, please call our Customer Service guys @ 800-977-2767. They all know their stuff and will surely be able to help.
BROTHERS Truck Parts everything looks right except the bottom brackets. On mine it’s bolted to the crossmember ( no bottom bracket ) wish I could send a pic to y’all.
@@deanmendez2626 Call us and we'll give you a number you can text a photo to. That way we'll all be on the same page.
Anything yet or plans to do a video on tracking down rattles from the bed?
Nothing planned at the moment. We'd suggest you start by replacing the bed mounting pads because they are typically worn out (they were rubber). After that check to make sure your tailgate doesn't have any unusual amount of play.
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV Thanks, will do!
Are the mounts the same for a C20 3/4 ton. Not a c10.
The 3/4 and 1t trucks used a different cab mount than the C10.
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV i think the fronts are the same and the back for sure are diffrent.
@@RCbasheracer Yep!
i needed this video awesome 👍
Glad it helped!
what part number are those body mounts
Direct Product Link: bit.ly/2m1ipRC
Is this the same way you would replace cab mounts on a 67-72 c10?
Very close to the same procedure. Thanks for watching!
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV I want to do my 71 C10 but I'm curious about the bolt removal. Is there access on the cab floor or do you need to cut a hole to pull the bolt through?
@@tylerljungberg4607 You don't need to cut a hole, almost the exact same procedure as what you see here. We'll be doing a 67-72 cab mount install video soon too.
BROTHERS Truck Parts awesome! When you do, please show the part where the bolt is dropped through the top because I’m not sure what that will look like without ripping up my carpet
@@tylerljungberg4607 Absolutely!
👍
we have a 63 C-10 panel. is there a kit for it as well?
We carry mounts for panels too. Check out www.brotherstrucks.com