I bought a pair of these for my 66 in the late 80's or early 90's. Mine were from when they sold them in all the colors originally offered. They were $300 a pair, which was big bucks back then. It was my understanding at the time that the skin would peel off the black plastic and was to be installed over the existing panel, vinyl, pressboard and all. I was unsure about that at the time, and I remember reading an article somewhere (pre internet days) that the vinyl, plastic and all were to be installed over the existing panel so I tried it. That definitely wasn't the way to do it. I took them off and still have them, and still unsure about how to do it! I believe the intention of the, although no directions were ever located, was that you had to have a solid door card to start with. Maybe cracked vinyl etc, but the cardboard needed to be 100% and that the vinyl was just meant to skin over the existing door card.
Hey PL, it sounds like you got door panel skins?? Back in the 80's and 90's, skins were popular, they would just lay over the existing panel. I thought they sucked and I never purchased any. I've seen many of my customers buy dash skins (not replacement full pads) and those looked terrible and the installation was always horrible. Sometimes it looked worse than before. New repo door panels today, the ones I used in my video, do not require using the original door panel, you can throw that away. However, I used the original door panel to use as a template to make sure I was cutting holes in the correct places as I show in my video. One of the biggest problems with the old door panel is the cardboard at the bottom. Everyones is bad so to reuse that was pointless. My recommendation is to get a set of todays replacement door panels. Good luck.
Nick, I’ve been wondering what to do for my weathered out door bottoms that no longer attach to the bottom channel.. now I know. I might have to move this task higher up my To Do List. Thanks for helping me rehab my 66.
Hey Mike, there is not a lot you can do. You can reconstruct them in fiberglass or have someone repair the bottoms with sheet metal. Ive done both but the ultimate repair is just to replace them. There's really not much you can do with that. Good luck.
Hello Nick, Video was a life saver. Luckily I watched and absorbed your lessons learned before attempting the install. One trick I learned was to reuse the upper curved section of the original panels for the fuzzy lip backup (rivoted on). One issue I had was the vent window shafts were about 0.350 too short due to the excessive thickness on the aftermarket panel in this area. Ended up welding on a heavy wall spacer to the slotted end and then extending the slots the new end. Then just spaced out the mounting bracket same distance. For the fuzzy's, I used Rubber the Right Way PN 10-206X-U and just cut each side to length. Thanks again!😊
Hi Nick! Thanks for this unbelievably detailed video on after market door panel installation. I purchased my panels two years ago and they are still sitting in the box which I haven't opened yet. After watching this I wish I hadn't purchased them!! Now I have no choice but to follow your video keep my fingers crossed, stay patient, try to curb my language and attempt this on my own.
Hi nick, thanks a lot for this in-depth lesson. I have been working on a 64 and the original door panels were shot. I followed all of your suggestions and the strip of steel riveted behind the new plastic door panel and the inner window fuzzy was key. My interior is aqua to I painted the panels and added matching carpet panels but no courtesy lights on the doors. I drilled both panels for window cranks (the panels both had an accurate X mark on the inside for the location of the holes) which I then enlarged with a Dremel to be perfect. The panels and new inner and outer window fuzzies are now all installed and it turned out well, or at least nice enough for the girls I go with. Thanks again for sharing your expertise.
Hey David, you gotta impress the girls, I know how it is. Glad you were able to follow along and get yours done. Its quite a job. Yes there is an X on the inside but I didnt trust it at first. Turns out it is correctly located. But not the curtesy light. What a pain that was as you saw in the video. Oh well, gotta have them. Thanks.
Hey Nick, what a job! Those panels are expensive, also. So like you were saying "patience" is needed. Thanks again for the video. George B. in Michigan
Oh man, Nick you have the patience of a saint. These door panel are just another example of the infamous triple C; Cheap Chinese Crap. The attention to detail and the the determination you showed to overcome the obstacles shows in the finished product. Well done. I hope your finger wasn't hurt too bad.
Nic, I sense your frustration. I have 13 years in aircraft maintenance. We rarely have fitment issues. I’ve learned that aircraft have to meet a higher standard. I need your patience. I just installed a aftermarket firewall insulator in my 66. Not easy. Thank you for the HVAC vid, the dash vid, column vid. Couldn’t have gotten thru without them.
Nick thank you for this video, my original panels are ok for function, the water barrier was removed in the pass and it allowed water to damage and change the shape curving the panel. They miss hitting the bottom channel. Now I have reference for future challenge replacing later. Now always have your firstaid kit
Hi Nick. I'm getting into the door panels for my '66 Convert. The panels are a little chewed up but not horrible and i'm thinking of trying to save them due to the horrors of the CCC. Cracks to repair and cardboard to stiffen. Do you have a direction for that sort of attempt? Any thoughts are much desired. BTW, my doors do not have any carpet. Just pearl white vinyl all the way down. Thanks for all the lessons...Ed (J is my bride Joan)
Hey Joan, Ive seen people have upholstery shops recover door panels if the arm rest and grip area is not chewed up, cracked badly, or has chunks out of it. Usually what ever imperfections on the vinyl such as cracks, vinyl lifting up, chunks missing, etc will show through the new vinyl. The new vinyl must have a perfectly flat surface to lay on in order to look good. Secondly, vinyl doesnt stretch well over extreme curves like around the arm rest and grip so you will need a french seam on the edge of the arm rest so the upholstery shop will not have to stretch the vinyl over that area. If its a good upholstery shop, they will know what to do. Its also important how they handle the area (lip on the front and back edge) where the door panel screws to the door. Most shops do not attach the new vinyl properly to that area. The condition of the existing door panel will determine just how nice it will turn out. Good luck.
Thanks for this comprehensive video Nick! The door panels on my uncle's 66 were reproductions that were put on before he bought it in 2001, and they are so cheap. One instance taking the driver's side off the top of the panel where the cat whisker attaches broke where it was riveted. On the door lock button issue, where you had to re-tap the new ones, if I'm remembering correctly wasn't one of the changes from 64 to 65 body fasteners from fine threads to course threads (or vice-versa)? If so, maybe there was a change in the lock rods? The latches changed from 64 to 65, I don't have a full parts catalog with the part numbers of the body components to confirm the rod part numbers.
Nick, Very good video, my friend. I'm just catching up, as usual. They don't give those repro door panels away, eh? Hopefully, I can somehow mange to salvage mine, but it'll take a lot of work and likely look like crap when done. Regards, John
You always seem to cover issues I have questions about with my '65! THANKS! I've been pondering these reproduction door panels for the last year or so on my car. I've heard about varying degrees of dissatisfaction with them...enough to make me wary. You obviously aren't impressed with them, but it seems that IF the vinyl is cracked/split and the cardboard is partially deteriorated/eaten away on original door panels, then these are about your only option. Would that be an accurate assessment of your opinion? (IE, no hope for bad original panels?) ALSO, my car is a '65 Landau, so the obvious question is...can the faux woodgrain metal Landau cover at the top of the panel be fitted over the ribbed section of these reproduction panels? Also I presume the vinyl covering comes on the repo panel from the manufacturer, but as I recall, the vinyl coverings come in a limited color choice. Can these be painted with the SEM paint? How durable would that be? (My only concern about SEM painted surfaces is how they can be cleaned without removing the finish.) I've fitted the other windows seals in my car without too much issue, but the inner "cat whisker" seals on these panels are concerning...I only have the repop seals with the "bend" in them.
Yes, your assessment is correct, there is no other solution. You can purchase repro door panels without the ribbed section especially made for the wood grain. Yes, the door panels are available in only a few colors, you must dye them with SEM if you have colors other than black or white. It is very durable if done properly. The more coats the better. Last coat must be wet and think. You can only clean them with soap and water, no 409 or other chemicals. 409 will remove paint. That place B-D in Denver might have bulk cat whisker like the ones you get in the kit without the bend, like the ones I used in the video. I must have gotten them somewhere so they are probably available from someone. I guess you just have to do the research. I even had trouble with the rear ones and ended up using the originals and glued new cast whisker material to the molding. The repros did not fit properly and the window kept snagging them and pulling them off the panel. Thanks.
Do you know who sells body panels for a 1970 Lincoln continental mark 3. I need a partial quarter panel (wheel lip) area. I thought if anyone would know it would be you.
Hey Mark, sorry for the very late reply, I did not see your comment until now. That came in the insulation kit I got from Thunderbird Headquarters. Its like Jute with a silver backing. Nice stuff. I cant remember the name of the company TBHQ got it from but you could call them and ask.
hey great video keep them coming, you told me a while back what tire size to use 215/75/15 for my 66, so i ordered some and i ordered some 15x7 wheels with a 6mm offset, but the tires are rubbing the front finder just under the bumper, does this sound like not enough off set in the wheel like the factory wheels were or do i have a problem with the suspension somewhere, just wondering if you have run into this before? thanks for all you do.
I have seen this problem when the alignment is way off or there is something wrong with the suspension causing the front wheel to move forward. However, now that you have a wheel that is not stock and has an offset, that certainly may be your problem. Also, Your saying that the wheel is hitting the valance below the bumper. The fender is above the bumper. Its also possible that the valance is on wrong or misaligned?? But Id bet its the wheels and tires.
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 a guy on facebook group put these wheels on his 65 thats why i ordered a set to i fugered if they work for a 65 they will for a 66. the tires are hitting the finder extensions that are behind the bumper and run around the front im not sure what you call them. i have pics but cant send them here. i cant find any wheels with the same measurements as the factory wheels. the ones they sell at tbirdparts.com look the same as the ones i ordered but they dont tell you any specs at all. these are what i got www.performanceplustire.com/buy-wheels-online/vision-wheels/55-rally-silver-painted/ws:15x7/
@@jasonburns4279 Well somethings got to be wrong. Check the suspension like I suggested and maybe if you had an original wheel and tire, you could fit that and see if it hits. If it doesn't, then you know its the new wheels you bought.
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 ill check the suspension but i think its the offset. i have a couple original wheels but they are so rusty they wont hold air but they dont hit and they have much more offset then the new one do. i just need wheels that are not as wide and with more offset but thats been the hard part i cant find any. or i can use these wheels but ill have to get smaller tires but i dont really want to do that. thanks again
Great job im exhausted. One question Nick what would you recommend if you had to dye this door panel to match your interior would you do it before you did all this or afterwards.Boy that was a crazy video.
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 thanks do have a donate thing on your channel i couldn't find one. If not at least give me your PayPal handle you've saved me a lot of money at least want to buy you dinner. I charge for my knowledge everyday and you just hand it out
@@ihave35cents95 Yeah, I should have everyone send me a check for $100. That's the ticket. I appreciate that but don't worry about it, I like doing it. I'm glad that you like my videos and that it helps.
@@ihave35cents95 True. Just know that I never expected any payment of any kind from anyone. I just realized that Thunderbird owners need to know this stuff because most owners do not have access to experienced and/or ethical mechanics. Most people get screwed by the guy who says he can, and cant, and the owner of the car pays the price. Anyway, thank you very much.
Nick the previous owner of my 66 has installed the same crappy aftermarket door panels well my drivers side window has rolled the fuzzie up withe the window on the rear section of door panel ripping out the rivets. I ordered steel reinforcing strips for the back of the panel like you outlined. I think I will have to re rivet the fuzzie if possible but I was wondering if you had any tips outside of your great video that could help with reattachment of a botched install.
Well you can probably use the same rivet holes in the door panel as long as they are not too big. Having 2 people holding the cat whisker and metal strip in place along with vice grips is always good. Patience and double checking everything before you take each step helps. Call B-D in Denver and maybe they have the same cat whiskers I used on mine. I don't know what they are called or the measurements, sorry. Also buy 5/8" cat whisker to rob the fuzzy from like I did. Otherwise, the video basically says it all I think so just follow that. Its not that hard. Good luck.
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 Thanks for all your help you are very skilled and it shows in a big way. Please give your cat and extra petting from me we are cat people also. Cat people we have found are very friendly folks.
Hi Nick. Do you know who made those awful cat whiskers? From what i can tell there are 2 manufactuers. Repops or PUI. I dont want to end up with the ones you got.
Hey David, I do not know who actually manufactures them. I got mine from Birds Nest but dont blame them, all the dealers sell the same crap. Poorly made and they dont fit. Ive complained about it till I was red in the face to no avail. Reuse the original chrome strip and glue in new felt if you can. If the rubber is compromised, you have to use your imagination to fix it. If you have good used original chrome strips, your ahead of the game. Good luck.
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 well i was doing some parts ordering and i found one of the rare cases where there actually are 2 different option. On Jegs website the list a repops set and a PUI set. Just by looking at the pictures it looks like maybe you got the PUI ones and i was leaning toward ordering the repops
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 hi nick. I took a chance and ordered the "repops" brand through jegs and it looks like a winner. They arent perfect.. but they are far better than the trash ones that you ended up with. Hopefully that saves you some trouble next time.
Hi Nick, Nick here from New Zealand. We are also creating a Thelma and Louise replica and are just about to start the interior. Have you ever done a video on repairing or recovering the door panels. I did not want to use the aftermarket panels as they do not feel very nice. I am going to try and recover the panel as I can't seem to find anyone to undertake the work for me. Any advice please? Also love your videos and how you go about your work.
Hey Nick, I have seen many repaired and/or recovered original door panels throughout the years and maybe 2 out of 100 looked good. Almost all were poorly done. Its very difficult, if not impossible to stretch vinyl around the corners and around the hand hold and have it look good. One door panel I saw that was recovered and I thought looked okay was one where they put a French seam on the edge of the arm rest. The guy did a very nice job. You could tell that he spent some time on it. Also, if there are cracks or chunks missing from around the hand hold, its very hard to repair that and not have it end up lumpy or visible in some way even if it is covered over. Because of my experience, I've never been a fan of recovering door panels because it just never turns out well. Despite the trouble I had making these repro door panels work, they turned out fabulous and I am very happy with the outcome, and so are the customers. Thank you very much.
Cheers Nick, Maybe when I have a go I'll send you a picture for you to critic my effort. Love these cars and looking forward to getting ours finished. How can I send you a picture? Also when's the next video?
@@nickr7899 Hey Nick, my email is tamie.nick@sbcglobal.net. You can send me a photo with that. I recently started working on a video about pulling a vacuum on the AC system to check for leaks. However, in the interim, the computer I use for RUclips videos crashed and now it is being repaired. They said that I will loose my older version of Windows 10 that has Movie Maker, the program I use to make videos. New versions of Windows 10 does not have Movie Maker so now I have to find another program and learn it all over again. I still don't have my computer back so that next video is down the road. Also, I have other things going on so I'm pretty busy. Videos are down the list I'm afraid. No worries mate.
I assume you mean, why are we putting up with crummy reproduction parts? Cost. The cost to make decent door panels would become cost prohibitive I'm guessing. People want cheap so cheap is what they get. I admit that the cars don't hold the value to support expensive parts. But still, they could have done a better job with these if they had taken the time to work out some of the fine details. Its frustrating.
Thank you Nick ,I'm ready to fix my 1964
Thanks James. Good luck.
I bought a pair of these for my 66 in the late 80's or early 90's. Mine were from when they sold them in all the colors originally offered. They were $300 a pair, which was big bucks back then. It was my understanding at the time that the skin would peel off the black plastic and was to be installed over the existing panel, vinyl, pressboard and all. I was unsure about that at the time, and I remember reading an article somewhere (pre internet days) that the vinyl, plastic and all were to be installed over the existing panel so I tried it. That definitely wasn't the way to do it. I took them off and still have them, and still unsure about how to do it! I believe the intention of the, although no directions were ever located, was that you had to have a solid door card to start with. Maybe cracked vinyl etc, but the cardboard needed to be 100% and that the vinyl was just meant to skin over the existing door card.
Hey PL, it sounds like you got door panel skins?? Back in the 80's and 90's, skins were popular, they would just lay over the existing panel. I thought they sucked and I never purchased any. I've seen many of my customers buy dash skins (not replacement full pads) and those looked terrible and the installation was always horrible. Sometimes it looked worse than before. New repo door panels today, the ones I used in my video, do not require using the original door panel, you can throw that away. However, I used the original door panel to use as a template to make sure I was cutting holes in the correct places as I show in my video. One of the biggest problems with the old door panel is the cardboard at the bottom. Everyones is bad so to reuse that was pointless. My recommendation is to get a set of todays replacement door panels. Good luck.
Nick, I’ve been wondering what to do for my weathered out door bottoms that no longer attach to the bottom channel.. now I know. I might have to move this task higher up my To Do List. Thanks for helping me rehab my 66.
Hey Mike, there is not a lot you can do. You can reconstruct them in fiberglass or have someone repair the bottoms with sheet metal. Ive done both but the ultimate repair is just to replace them. There's really not much you can do with that. Good luck.
Hello Nick, Video was a life saver. Luckily I watched and absorbed your lessons learned before attempting the install. One trick I learned was to reuse the upper curved section of the original panels for the fuzzy lip backup (rivoted on). One issue I had was the vent window shafts were about 0.350 too short due to the excessive thickness on the aftermarket panel in this area. Ended up welding on a heavy wall spacer to the slotted end and then extending the slots the new end. Then just spaced out the mounting bracket same distance. For the fuzzy's, I used Rubber the Right Way PN 10-206X-U and just cut each side to length. Thanks again!😊
Hey Jim, glad the video was able to help you. Thank you.
Thank for the information I well be doing .my doors soon. You were very helpful
You are so welcome!
Hi Nick! Thanks for this unbelievably detailed video on after market door panel installation. I purchased my panels two years ago and they are still sitting in the box which I haven't opened yet. After watching this I wish I hadn't purchased them!! Now I have no choice but to follow your video keep my fingers crossed, stay patient, try to curb my language and attempt this on my own.
Hey George, well good luck with those, this video should help you do a good job.
Hi nick, thanks a lot for this in-depth lesson. I have been working on a 64 and the original door panels were shot. I followed all of your suggestions and the strip of steel riveted behind the new plastic door panel and the inner window fuzzy was key. My interior is aqua to I painted the panels and added matching carpet panels but no courtesy lights on the doors. I drilled both panels for window cranks (the panels both had an accurate X mark on the inside for the location of the holes) which I then enlarged with a Dremel to be perfect. The panels and new inner and outer window fuzzies are now all installed and it turned out well, or at least nice enough for the girls I go with. Thanks again for sharing your expertise.
Hey David, you gotta impress the girls, I know how it is. Glad you were able to follow along and get yours done. Its quite a job. Yes there is an X on the inside but I didnt trust it at first. Turns out it is correctly located. But not the curtesy light. What a pain that was as you saw in the video. Oh well, gotta have them. Thanks.
Hey Nick, what a job! Those panels are expensive, also. So like you were saying "patience" is needed. Thanks again for the video.
George B. in Michigan
Its always needed, especially with these lousy door panels.
Oh man, Nick you have the patience of a saint. These door panel are just another example of the infamous triple C; Cheap Chinese Crap. The attention to detail and the the determination you showed to overcome the obstacles shows in the finished product. Well done. I hope your finger wasn't hurt too bad.
Thank you John. My finger is okay. My mommy put a band aid on it and now I'm good to go.
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 😂
I can't believe you just did a video on this I've heard horror stories on the fitment I haven't watched it yet. Awsome
Nic, I sense your frustration. I have 13 years in aircraft maintenance. We rarely have fitment issues. I’ve learned that aircraft have to meet a higher standard. I need your patience. I just installed a aftermarket firewall insulator in my 66. Not easy. Thank you for the HVAC vid, the dash vid, column vid. Couldn’t have gotten thru without them.
Thanks Bill. It seems like there are no standards in the automotive reproduction business.
Throughly enjoy your videos.
Thanks Michael.
Nick thank you for this video, my original panels are ok for function, the water barrier was removed in the pass and it allowed water to damage and change the shape curving the panel. They miss hitting the bottom channel. Now I have reference for future challenge replacing later. Now always have your firstaid kit
When you get bit by your bird. Only Tetanus is required not rabies shot
Thanks Mark.
Hi Nick. I'm getting into the door panels for my '66 Convert. The panels are a little chewed up but not horrible and i'm thinking of trying to save them due to the horrors of the CCC. Cracks to repair and cardboard to stiffen. Do you have a direction for that sort of attempt? Any thoughts are much desired. BTW, my doors do not have any carpet. Just pearl white vinyl all the way down. Thanks for all the lessons...Ed (J is my bride Joan)
Hey Joan, Ive seen people have upholstery shops recover door panels if the arm rest and grip area is not chewed up, cracked badly, or has chunks out of it. Usually what ever imperfections on the vinyl such as cracks, vinyl lifting up, chunks missing, etc will show through the new vinyl. The new vinyl must have a perfectly flat surface to lay on in order to look good. Secondly, vinyl doesnt stretch well over extreme curves like around the arm rest and grip so you will need a french seam on the edge of the arm rest so the upholstery shop will not have to stretch the vinyl over that area. If its a good upholstery shop, they will know what to do. Its also important how they handle the area (lip on the front and back edge) where the door panel screws to the door. Most shops do not attach the new vinyl properly to that area. The condition of the existing door panel will determine just how nice it will turn out. Good luck.
Nice work Nick... really nice.. you've converted a chinese knock off to American standards !!! Well done
Thank you Ron.
Thanks for this comprehensive video Nick! The door panels on my uncle's 66 were reproductions that were put on before he bought it in 2001, and they are so cheap. One instance taking the driver's side off the top of the panel where the cat whisker attaches broke where it was riveted. On the door lock button issue, where you had to re-tap the new ones, if I'm remembering correctly wasn't one of the changes from 64 to 65 body fasteners from fine threads to course threads (or vice-versa)? If so, maybe there was a change in the lock rods? The latches changed from 64 to 65, I don't have a full parts catalog with the part numbers of the body components to confirm the rod part numbers.
Nick,
Very good video, my friend. I'm just catching up, as usual. They don't give those repro door panels away, eh? Hopefully, I can somehow mange to salvage mine, but it'll take a lot of work and likely look like crap when done.
Regards,
John
You're right man made it man can fix it
Beautiful job Nick! But everything you do is stiller. I wished I had your patience.
Thanks Garry.
Were did you buy those door panels at.
I bought those from the Birds Nest. However, any of the Thunderbird parts dealers have them.
Thank you. Love your videos. Keep them coming.
You always seem to cover issues I have questions about with my '65! THANKS! I've been pondering these reproduction door panels for the last year or so on my car. I've heard about varying degrees of dissatisfaction with them...enough to make me wary. You obviously aren't impressed with them, but it seems that IF the vinyl is cracked/split and the cardboard is partially deteriorated/eaten away on original door panels, then these are about your only option. Would that be an accurate assessment of your opinion? (IE, no hope for bad original panels?)
ALSO, my car is a '65 Landau, so the obvious question is...can the faux woodgrain metal Landau cover at the top of the panel be fitted over the ribbed section of these reproduction panels? Also I presume the vinyl covering comes on the repo panel from the manufacturer, but as I recall, the vinyl coverings come in a limited color choice. Can these be painted with the SEM paint? How durable would that be? (My only concern about SEM painted surfaces is how they can be cleaned without removing the finish.)
I've fitted the other windows seals in my car without too much issue, but the inner "cat whisker" seals on these panels are concerning...I only have the repop seals with the "bend" in them.
Yes, your assessment is correct, there is no other solution. You can purchase repro door panels without the ribbed section especially made for the wood grain. Yes, the door panels are available in only a few colors, you must dye them with SEM if you have colors other than black or white. It is very durable if done properly. The more coats the better. Last coat must be wet and think. You can only clean them with soap and water, no 409 or other chemicals. 409 will remove paint. That place B-D in Denver might have bulk cat whisker like the ones you get in the kit without the bend, like the ones I used in the video. I must have gotten them somewhere so they are probably available from someone. I guess you just have to do the research. I even had trouble with the rear ones and ended up using the originals and glued new cast whisker material to the molding. The repros did not fit properly and the window kept snagging them and pulling them off the panel. Thanks.
Do you know who sells body panels for a 1970 Lincoln continental mark 3. I need a partial quarter panel (wheel lip) area. I thought if anyone would know it would be you.
Try classic sheet metal. Look them up on the web.
Nick, what is the vapor barrier that you used (shown at the end)? You mentioned it's from a kit, but no brand name.
Hey Mark, sorry for the very late reply, I did not see your comment until now. That came in the insulation kit I got from Thunderbird Headquarters. Its like Jute with a silver backing. Nice stuff. I cant remember the name of the company TBHQ got it from but you could call them and ask.
hey great video keep them coming, you told me a while back what tire size to use 215/75/15 for my 66, so i ordered some and i ordered some 15x7 wheels with a 6mm offset, but the tires are rubbing the front finder just under the bumper, does this sound like not enough off set in the wheel like the factory wheels were or do i have a problem with the suspension somewhere, just wondering if you have run into this before? thanks for all you do.
I have seen this problem when the alignment is way off or there is something wrong with the suspension causing the front wheel to move forward. However, now that you have a wheel that is not stock and has an offset, that certainly may be your problem. Also, Your saying that the wheel is hitting the valance below the bumper. The fender is above the bumper. Its also possible that the valance is on wrong or misaligned?? But Id bet its the wheels and tires.
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 a guy on facebook group put these wheels on his 65 thats why i ordered a set to i fugered if they work for a 65 they will for a 66. the tires are hitting the finder extensions that are behind the bumper and run around the front im not sure what you call them. i have pics but cant send them here. i cant find any wheels with the same measurements as the factory wheels. the ones they sell at tbirdparts.com look the same as the ones i ordered but they dont tell you any specs at all. these are what i got www.performanceplustire.com/buy-wheels-online/vision-wheels/55-rally-silver-painted/ws:15x7/
@@jasonburns4279 Well somethings got to be wrong. Check the suspension like I suggested and maybe if you had an original wheel and tire, you could fit that and see if it hits. If it doesn't, then you know its the new wheels you bought.
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 ill check the suspension but i think its the offset. i have a couple original wheels but they are so rusty they wont hold air but they dont hit and they have much more offset then the new one do. i just need wheels that are not as wide and with more offset but thats been the hard part i cant find any. or i can use these wheels but ill have to get smaller tires but i dont really want to do that. thanks again
Hi Nick, have you ever been involved with the electric window winder motors , where would i find the brushes to fit them any idea? Good video
Thank Rick. Sorry, I do not know where to get window motor brushes.
Great job im exhausted. One question Nick what would you recommend if you had to dye this door panel to match your interior would you do it before you did all this or afterwards.Boy that was a crazy video.
Yes, all dye work is before assembly. However, I matched the paint to the door panels so I didn't have to dye them, just the other smaller parts.
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 thanks do have a donate thing on your channel i couldn't find one. If not at least give me your PayPal handle you've saved me a lot of money at least want to buy you dinner. I charge for my knowledge everyday and you just hand it out
@@ihave35cents95 Yeah, I should have everyone send me a check for $100. That's the ticket. I appreciate that but don't worry about it, I like doing it. I'm glad that you like my videos and that it helps.
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 lmao ty. You might not be able to get around this one I have your address. You are good people
@@ihave35cents95 True. Just know that I never expected any payment of any kind from anyone. I just realized that Thunderbird owners need to know this stuff because most owners do not have access to experienced and/or ethical mechanics. Most people get screwed by the guy who says he can, and cant, and the owner of the car pays the price. Anyway, thank you very much.
Does this did show the vinyl being installed. I was shipping through it and can't see that process.
The reproduction door panels come as you see in the video, with the vinyl attached.
Nick the previous owner of my 66 has installed the same crappy aftermarket door panels well my drivers side window has rolled the fuzzie up withe the window on the rear section of door panel ripping out the rivets. I ordered steel reinforcing strips for the back of the panel like you outlined. I think I will have to re rivet the fuzzie if possible but I was wondering if you had any tips outside of your great video that could help with reattachment of a botched install.
Well you can probably use the same rivet holes in the door panel as long as they are not too big. Having 2 people holding the cat whisker and metal strip in place along with vice grips is always good. Patience and double checking everything before you take each step helps. Call B-D in Denver and maybe they have the same cat whiskers I used on mine. I don't know what they are called or the measurements, sorry. Also buy 5/8" cat whisker to rob the fuzzy from like I did. Otherwise, the video basically says it all I think so just follow that. Its not that hard. Good luck.
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 Thanks for all your help you are very skilled and it shows in a big way. Please give your cat and extra petting from me we are cat people also. Cat people we have found are very friendly folks.
@@carguy4sp Thank you Rodney, I love my fat panda, thats sure.
Hi Nick. Do you know who made those awful cat whiskers? From what i can tell there are 2 manufactuers. Repops or PUI. I dont want to end up with the ones you got.
Hey David, I do not know who actually manufactures them. I got mine from Birds Nest but dont blame them, all the dealers sell the same crap. Poorly made and they dont fit. Ive complained about it till I was red in the face to no avail. Reuse the original chrome strip and glue in new felt if you can. If the rubber is compromised, you have to use your imagination to fix it. If you have good used original chrome strips, your ahead of the game. Good luck.
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 well i was doing some parts ordering and i found one of the rare cases where there actually are 2 different option. On Jegs website the list a repops set and a PUI set. Just by looking at the pictures it looks like maybe you got the PUI ones and i was leaning toward ordering the repops
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 hi nick. I took a chance and ordered the "repops" brand through jegs and it looks like a winner. They arent perfect.. but they are far better than the trash ones that you ended up with. Hopefully that saves you some trouble next time.
@@davidgalietti3398 Nice. I hope they work for you. Its always a gamble with repro stuff.
Hi Nick,
Nick here from New Zealand. We are also creating a Thelma and Louise replica and are just about to start the interior. Have you ever done a video on repairing or recovering the door panels. I did not want to use the aftermarket panels as they do not feel very nice. I am going to try and recover the panel as I can't seem to find anyone to undertake the work for me. Any advice please? Also love your videos and how you go about your work.
Hey Nick, I have seen many repaired and/or recovered original door panels throughout the years and maybe 2 out of 100 looked good. Almost all were poorly done. Its very difficult, if not impossible to stretch vinyl around the corners and around the hand hold and have it look good. One door panel I saw that was recovered and I thought looked okay was one where they put a French seam on the edge of the arm rest. The guy did a very nice job. You could tell that he spent some time on it. Also, if there are cracks or chunks missing from around the hand hold, its very hard to repair that and not have it end up lumpy or visible in some way even if it is covered over. Because of my experience, I've never been a fan of recovering door panels because it just never turns out well. Despite the trouble I had making these repro door panels work, they turned out fabulous and I am very happy with the outcome, and so are the customers. Thank you very much.
Cheers Nick,
Maybe when I have a go I'll send you a picture for you to critic my effort. Love these cars and looking forward to getting ours finished. How can I send you a picture? Also when's the next video?
@@nickr7899 Hey Nick, my email is tamie.nick@sbcglobal.net. You can send me a photo with that. I recently started working on a video about pulling a vacuum on the AC system to check for leaks. However, in the interim, the computer I use for RUclips videos crashed and now it is being repaired. They said that I will loose my older version of Windows 10 that has Movie Maker, the program I use to make videos. New versions of Windows 10 does not have Movie Maker so now I have to find another program and learn it all over again. I still don't have my computer back so that next video is down the road. Also, I have other things going on so I'm pretty busy. Videos are down the list I'm afraid. No worries mate.
Cheers Nick, I'll send a picture when I have done a panel
Almost every 64 to 66 model needs new door panels. It's 2021, why are we still putting up with this shit???
I assume you mean, why are we putting up with crummy reproduction parts? Cost. The cost to make decent door panels would become cost prohibitive I'm guessing. People want cheap so cheap is what they get. I admit that the cars don't hold the value to support expensive parts. But still, they could have done a better job with these if they had taken the time to work out some of the fine details. Its frustrating.