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Should the oil pump drive shaft be replaced when using the Melling HV oil pump? My car is a stock weekend driver and I am pulling the oil pan because it leaks. I am also going to replace the rear main seal because you know why. Thanks!!

Greetings from Canada! I have a '61 caddy with the same transmission that's currently slipping from 2-3. Where did you source the parts from? -Jeremy

Wow I'm glad I came across this. My 65 Galaxie 500 pulls to the right. I replace upper control arm bushing, Did a front end alignment, all other bushings and tie rods are good. I have a leak at the steering box but the steering wheel don't move when starting. Could this still be the steering box. I rebuilt the power steering pump also. Tires all good. Correct air pressure in all tires, brake calipers good and not sticking.

Nick, another great video. I couldn’t do this journey without your videos.

Wife and I picked up a beautiful 65 Thunderbird in Penrose Colorado last weekend. The car needs some TLC but thanks to your videos we are underway in an effort to fix a few things. Thank you for every minute you invest in your videos and for sharing your knowledge and experience with these vintage cars. Is there some way to contact you with some specific questions in reference to the Thunderbird we are working on? We are happy to buy you a coffee or a Beatles greatest hits CD in exchange for your expert guidance! All the best! Keep up the great work and keep sharing the knowledge so that we can make repairs the proper way!

Hey Nick, Help! I just noticed my steering column is a mess, missing the part that moves the pin on the neutral safty switch, and the big black rubber piece that you show in your video that you cut and install? where do you get that? I checked the Birds Nest but did not find it. Thanks. and God bless.

Excellent video Nick, but I was hoping that you would show where that one rod goes that has the long slot and a single bolt hole in it. I has been months since I took mine apart.... shame on me for not taking pictures! The shop manule does not show it either!

Hi Nick. I have 2 questions I hope you can help me with #1 I keep seeing a "vacuum check valve" offered for the 1966 Thunderbird possibly only for AC equipped cars. I've seen it mentioned on a vacuum layout diagram and position right after the vacuum source point on the engine, before the lines are connected to anything else. Can you verify whether one is actually needed. I see one on Birds Nest and it has 3 ports which is also a bit confusing. #2 I see in this video that you have the second tip capped off on the brass fitting that comes out of the intake where the vacuum is supplied. What is that second fitting for? Thanks in advance!

Beautiful Cars😍

Hey Nick, thanks for the detail. Tomorrow Lord willing, will be my big day of one fat guy installing the dash in my '65 Tbird. My wiring harness had like 8 fried wires and then I changed most all the vacuum hoses. What fun....

Hi Nick, I took my shift lever out to weld the end up about 15 years ago and never got round to getting a new roll pin (just used a nut and bolt). I have lost the roll pin so I wonder if you could tell me the diameter so I can order a new one and do the job properly.

This is the owner. Any questions will be happy to answer. I found my digital camera photos were not a good quality. So setting up a professional photo shoot, should be in about a week. By the way, the colors in the video are really washed out, the green is way darker and more vibrant.

Dear Nick, just in time as I was hoping to reinstall my repaired dash for my '65... I have the door locks and more hoses than an ICU ward. That "gold" thing that is WAY in the back by the incoming air down boot, I can just by pass? I have to use long pliers to get a hose in it as I can not reach back there. So cool... or at least I hope it will be when all hooked back up.. That gold thing sure looks like a vacuum actuator to me... so hard to see back there. Well if I have trouble ill let you know. you have always been a help. God bless.

Mostly original with 1961 air in the tires, that's gonna fetch good money.

She's a beauty! Has it gone through auction yet?

Curious, why not a stronger single spring?

I've been looking for a truck like this since high school back in the late seventies. I got a 1960 Apache 10 from my aunt's father after his passing. I sold mine when entering the airforce back in 1981... I'll take a stab at bidding. I'm not sure what it will go for?

That's a beautiful survivor truck, thanks Nick.

Nice truck but the guy filming needs to stop smoking 😅

This truck is for sale. It will be listed on the Hemmings Motor News auction site soon, in a couple of weeks. If you want to see the truck, email me. My email address is tamie dot nick at sbcglobal dot net. Please email me a phone number and I will have the owner call you and arrange a meeting. Thank you.

Nick, is the upper column barring pressed on? I’m trying to figure out how to remove it so I grease the barring and replace the missing barring sleeve. Thanks

Nick, you always have great information! Thank you for sharing. 👍👍👍

Love the videos! Have to ask, as my 66 has the same wire loose.....what does the loose wire at 17:14 connect to?

This is great info. I've struggled with the driver's side window in my 1966 for years. My "original" window motor had the dowel style gear, but the dowels had disintegrated over time, so the motor would run, but the window wouldn't move. I ordered a new gear and received the spring style, which I thought was an updated design. It worked on the bench, but got stuck in the car. I ended up getting a used motor from a friend, put a new gear in it, but this time I got the dowel style. The window still seems to get stuck at the top once in a while, but I've managed to get it moving each time. Now I raise the window to about an inch of the top, pause there momentarily, then raise it the rest of the way so it doesn't have a chance to get as much speed, and that has worked for me so far this year. Thank you for doing these videos, NIck. They are very helpful!

The original rubber style gears were great, however they are 60 years old now and the rubber shears in half and the motor will run but he window doesn't move, or the rubber becomes hard as a rock and acts like the spring version where there is no flex/give. I agree with the roller style being the best available replacement. Good explanation. You're right about the '58-'60 gears. They are darn near bullet proof and the gears are still like new after all these years.

Hello Nick. Very nice demo. I agree that the drive gear with the dowels work fine. Do you get a new worm gear in the kit? My 91 Grand Marquis uses the dowels, also. George B

Where can you buy the parts?

Nice project, Nick. I bought mine in 1988 from the original owner. Let me know if you'd like to compare notes. I can send you a video if you'd like.

Hey Nick, i think my detent may be worn, my gear locations are off, they are farther to the right my reverse is almost on the N, neutral is on the small dot, alternate drive is over the big dot where the normal drive position should be and normal drive is over the L. I have to kinda force the gear selector down past L to put the car in low. Is this a detent problem, worn gear selector lever, or transmission linkage problem. Thanks!

Hi Nick, so you have a video of the complete removal of the shifter lever, I feel mine may have a notch in it and would like to get it welded? Thanks!

Hello Nick. I just added this to my repair list. I don't notice any slop, but it's better to do this before I put the fenders and hood hinge on during reassembly. Thanks for showing. George B

Hello Nick. Very interesting observations on your part. I think the engineers make some of those changes to keep their jobs! Lol. Seems like you always find brackets and such that look to be the same, but just not quite the same. George B

Hi there, I am hoping you can help me out. I recently received my dad’s 1965 thunderbird and the boot is not opening. I have managed to get it man7ally unlocked by watching some of you videos but I can’t seem to get it to engage the open phase. He had the manual bypass you put in to unlock it but I am at a bit of loss how to get it to open. I bought the service manual to see if there is a manual process to get it to fully open but if you have guidance I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks

hey Nick, so my 66 will start right up runs great, take it for a drive and it runs fine, but if i let it idle to long or rolling slow down a dirt road, it will start to run bad, load up sometimes but not always, and then a lifter will start ticking away. im thinking of putting in a high volume oil pump, but im also thinking of just pulling the intake and putting in new lifters and push rods and cleaning the rocker shafts while they are out. does replacing the lifters fix the ticking? anything to look out for while im in there ? thank you

Have a 64 TB and looking for Right side wire for horn ring - Ur video is quite good/informative thanks for making it..- Can I buy one from U ?? Pls advise - tks

hey Nick i'm getting ready to rebuild the steering and Front suspension on my 66, i ordered a rare parts steering idler bearing kit 20474 to replace the bushing. Have you ever installed one of these, It came with no instructions and rare parts Could not help me with the layout, they didn't seem to know anything about it really.

Hi Nick more questions, how were you able to tell the window relay and the window switches were bad on the black 66 convertible? How were you able to bypass the relay and window switches in order to get them to go up and down? I thought I saw some alligator clip jumper wires used? Thank you so much! ☺👋👌🙌🌳🌴

I also found this video quite fascinating to! thank you for going in depth with this. Is a 66 with cruise control steering wheel and a c6 trans have different detent plates and turn signal switches? also where is the neutral safety switch located with c6 trans and cruise? please post more videos! 😁😇 you are awesome!

I found this video quite fascinating! I'm with you...why spend so much money on recasting the same thing but different. 🤔 Thank you for this extremely interesting video, you are mostly one of the few people that own enough variations of these parts to show the differences between them. 👍👍👍

Back again Nick, you know on those 1964 detents I think you found 2, possibly 3 of them with one of the end tabs broken off. I'm betting Ford engineers realized this was a potential problem and that is why they made those end tabs heavier on the '65/66 detents - to prevent them from breaking off. I don't know why the other revisions to the detents were made on the '65/66 part, but I'm sure they had their reasons! God bless, Scott

64s have 2 different one year only turn signal switches. A 7 wire and a ten wire. Also a one year only steering wheel because the back side has a different horn brush plate. 64s, like 61s and 58s and 67s have a lot of first year of body style one year only castings. I am wondering if the detent plates were redesigned due to them breaking off that ear. The 65-66 redesign seems to have that tab wider than 64.

Hey Nick i do so appreciate your channel, i was watching your video on changing the master cylinder and my master don't slip in like the one you were working on. And my ajustment nut is backed off as far as it can, i can barely see just a part of that shaft inside the master. And i have quite a bit off play on the petal, any suggestions. 8/23/2024, 3:05 pm

Hi Nick, interesting observations my friend. I'm certain the '66 steering hub with the C6SA engineering number prefix was as you said, for a car equipped with cruise control as that was unique to '66 with the special steering wheel. The transmission gear selector lever in my friend's '64 (23,000 miles) is sloppy, so I'm certain the lever has the notch worn into it and needs to be removed/repaired. I plan on doing that for her in the near future. Aren't the detents usually fine? Seems to me it is the shift levers that typically have the wear damage and not the detent. What's your experience regarding that? Thanks, Scott

Sweet. I'm set to rebuild mine.

Hey Nick, hope your doing well. my 66 runs fine but if i let it sit and idle for to long i get a lifter ticking, if i rev it up to 1500 or so for about 10min it will go away, i replaced the oil sensor on the engine and oil pressure sits on the O in oil on the gauge and will drop some when hot, does this sound like a HV oil pump may fix this?

Hey Nick, Great job on that bushing installation, those are a real pain to get into place, and practically no room to work, let alone video the process! Oh btw...when I watch RUclips on our TV, I use my wife's account, and for some reason that account was unsubscribed to your channel...that really pisses me off, that RUclips can just unsubscribe someone. Lucky for me, I get RUclips notifications on my phone through JRS channel. 👍

I have a long skinny arm myself, can I remove the bushing without having to remove the hood spring and hinge? thank you as always Nick!

did you have to remove the shift lever to do this repair?

Did you have a video someplace on the shift linkage repair? I mean tightening up the play from years of wear?

Great how-to video on the lower column bushing Nick! Of course, when I did it on my 64 many moons ago I did it using your directions from the back pages of your parts catalog. I was able to do it without pulling the hood hinge, having long skinny arms helped get it done. The original bushing of course was plastic that would deteriorate and disintegrate. One thing you did not mention was cutting the new rubber bushing correctly down the middle of the locating tab. Also, I remember in your catalog directions mentioning to help get the bushing seated from under the dash to pull the shift tube back up a few times using the slide lock cam before putting it all back together. Come to think of it, I don't think I greased mine when I put it in, I probably should have. But on the other hand, 25+ years later and it still works like a charm.