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To seat the seal, I usually use one of my 3/4" sockets that has about the same O.D. as the seal. Then I mount a 3/4" extension onto the socket, put a 2x4 block on the extension so you don't damage it, then pound on the 2x4 block, rotating the socket as you pound so you drive it in evenly. Works every time.
And the bearings that goes in the axle housing that you had to drive in there if you put them in the freezer overnight they will slide right in Just make sure they're where you want them because when they start heating up they're going to stay right there
If you can find you a old deep fryer and put you about 3 in of motor oil in it flagship fire let it heat up right before the all starts boiling you can put the bearings in there for just about a minute or two and take them out and they will fall on that axle just be careful they're hot 🔥
Brock, the minor diameter will cause interference. You should be able to put them spline to spline and have them mesh perfectly. A true spline should not just ride in the teeth. The minor diameter along with the major diameter should have a close tolerance. A perfect fit. I agree the old one would be warn as old as it is. But that would wear on both the male and the female spline allowing it to go in a bit easier.
Watch that spinning knob on the steering wheel. Sometimes you'll hit a bump out ridge and the steering wheel can spin wildly. That knob can do some serious damage to your hand. Along with that, keep your thumbs out of the spokes on the wheel for the same reason. My brother bent his thumb all the way back to his wrist on an old truck with the same sort of steering. It wasn't pretty!
1. A seal setting kit will ensure the seal gets drove evenly without getting damaged however wait to install your new seal till you have made a test fit of new parts. Working the axle over the new seal several times will most likely damage it and you'll have fluid in your brakes. 2. In a situation like that axle you clean and degrease the end of the spline very well with brake parts cleaner or carb cleaner or acetone and then color the end with a black sharpie or lay out fluid and allow to dry. Very gently slide the shaft in and get as lined up as possible and give it one good whack (and only one) with your BFH. Gently slide the axle back out and the surface causing the interference will show shiny metal where the sharpie color was scuffed up. 3. I'm not sure about the setup procedure for the 8N at all but that center nut you were tightening onto the axle looked to be putting preload on the axle bearing and if it is too tight it will cause the bearing to fail. The nut might tighten down to a shoulder or something that stops the bearing from getting to tight I couldn't tell... just something to think about at night when you wake up to go pee....your welcome!!
Thanks for sharing. I know that works but We were just trying to get it done in the little bit of time we had I think that ended up being the wrong shaft
Brock,You guys have the wrong replacement shaft, it’s close to what you need, but it’s definitely wrong part number. Get the correct replacement for your model / year tractor if you feel the need to replace the axle. Your old axle looks good and should work just fine.
@@timmayer865 I got a new one online. Splines I believe were not deep enough or not skinny enough, had to take a grinder to the edges of the splines and it fit like butter after that.
If the original right hand axle and hub combined were spinning freely inside one another because of worn splines you should have been able to make the tractor move by holding the right brake thereby making the left wheel pull. As others have mentioned I believe your new axle is an incorrect part 🙁. Good luck 👍.
Thanks for watching and for more new content follow our Facebook Page at
facebook.com/Rock-Hill-Farm-102050688356056/
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Awesome video man thanks for all the help let’s make some more videos about the ol girl
Yes sir
To seat the seal, I usually use one of my 3/4" sockets that has about the same O.D. as the seal. Then I mount a 3/4" extension onto the socket, put a 2x4 block on the extension so you don't damage it, then pound on the 2x4 block, rotating the socket as you pound so you drive it in evenly. Works every time.
Thanks for sharing
You can still get the service manuals online. Reprints of the original Ford books. I've got a '51 8N and the books make all the difference.
I have an owners manual for it which has a diagram of the parts that go into it but not great instructions
Thanks for watching
Very good job and best like
Thanks
Thx for the video ....got a question plz....was there seal that went in just before the flat washer and nut?
TY
I've never done this, and I hope I never do, but I was quite entertained nonetheless!
I know that axel makes more sense, but axle is the correct spelling!
I was hoping for entertaining. I fixed the spelling issue
Thanks
On some of your axles there is one gear just a little bit bigger than the rest of them so you got to have it in time
And the bearings that goes in the axle housing that you had to drive in there if you put them in the freezer overnight they will slide right in
Just make sure they're where you want them because when they start heating up they're going to stay right there
If you can find you a old deep fryer and put you about 3 in of motor oil in it flagship fire let it heat up right before the all starts boiling you can put the bearings in there for just about a minute or two and take them out and they will fall on that axle just be careful they're hot 🔥
Brock, the minor diameter will cause interference. You should be able to put them spline to spline and have them mesh perfectly. A true spline should not just ride in the teeth. The minor diameter along with the major diameter should have a close tolerance. A perfect fit. I agree the old one would be warn as old as it is. But that would wear on both the male and the female spline allowing it to go in a bit easier.
That is what I was seeing. The 2 shafts did not fully fit together.
The new shaft was either the wrong part or it was machined incorrectly
Watch that spinning knob on the steering wheel. Sometimes you'll hit a bump out ridge and the steering wheel can spin wildly. That knob can do some serious damage to your hand. Along with that, keep your thumbs out of the spokes on the wheel for the same reason. My brother bent his thumb all the way back to his wrist on an old truck with the same sort of steering. It wasn't pretty!
I know of a man that broke his thumb from that. Raking hay and ran a tire into a hidden hole and the steering wheel spoke got him
Thanks for the heads up
1. A seal setting kit will ensure the seal gets drove evenly without getting damaged however wait to install your new seal till you have made a test fit of new parts. Working the axle over the new seal several times will most likely damage it and you'll have fluid in your brakes. 2. In a situation like that axle you clean and degrease the end of the spline very well with brake parts cleaner or carb cleaner or acetone and then color the end with a black sharpie or lay out fluid and allow to dry. Very gently slide the shaft in and get as lined up as possible and give it one good whack (and only one) with your BFH. Gently slide the axle back out and the surface causing the interference will show shiny metal where the sharpie color was scuffed up. 3. I'm not sure about the setup procedure for the 8N at all but that center nut you were tightening onto the axle looked to be putting preload on the axle bearing and if it is too tight it will cause the bearing to fail. The nut might tighten down to a shoulder or something that stops the bearing from getting to tight I couldn't tell... just something to think about at night when you wake up to go pee....your welcome!!
Thanks for the tips
if you don't have a press to press on the bearing you can freeze the shaft and heat the bearing sometimes they'll drop right on
Thanks for sharing. I know that works but We were just trying to get it done in the little bit of time we had
I think that ended up being the wrong shaft
That! German specs! 🌞🚜
What a pain but hay the old shaft will do for now and it drives again so that's a plus.
Exactly
Brock,You guys have the wrong replacement shaft, it’s close to what you need, but it’s definitely wrong part number. Get the correct replacement for your model / year tractor if you feel the need to replace the axle. Your old axle looks good and should work just fine.
Sounds right
Thanks
Where did you get that axle shaft from? Unfortunately have to replace mine and do not want to get the wrong one.
Same here, did you get an answer ?
@@timmayer865 I got a new one online. Splines I believe were not deep enough or not skinny enough, had to take a grinder to the edges of the splines and it fit like butter after that.
Use a socket to install seals and bearing race
Do you have the correct shaft for the tractor
According to the parts catalog we do but it’s not correct
Use old bearing to pound on
It probably would’ve been pretty difficult to get that old bearing off. The old hub worked pretty well for that
I not hear you Beep the Horn, Ha ha ha!!!
Thanks for watching
Is the new shaft for 9n instead of 8n ?
It was listed for an 8N but it clearly wasn’t right
If the original right hand axle and hub combined were spinning freely inside one another because of worn splines you should have been able to make the tractor move by holding the right brake thereby making the left wheel pull. As others have mentioned I believe your new axle is an incorrect part 🙁. Good luck 👍.
Thanks for sharing
I disagree, the brake drum was hooked to the axle where the spine was missing so there would be no way to hold the axle..thanx
Thanks for watching
Maybe you should look online for some kind of manual for the exact tractor
The bearing are tapered. I think that the smaller end should go into the housing.
Thanks for sharing
Put the bearing in hot oil then it will slip on easy
Transmission in neutral
Yes
One spline might be different,,a little larger.
Bearings should be pressed on with a hydraulicshop presssoit goes onstreight an even
Brock, do you ever sleep? My guess is no…
I try to stay busy
Put shaft in freezer about 1hour
Pull the cover plate off so u can see what's going on . U might have to take the seat off .
Thanks for the tip
Eso dos no saben ni lo gue estan asiendo
Hey if any one wants to buy a 9n. I got one to sell in Pennsylvania
Thanks for watching
@@RockhillfarmYT love your video's
Thanks a lot
Or maybe get another person who has a old Ford tractor. A fellow RUclipsr BILLSMAXX
I will check that out
@@RockhillfarmYT I know that he has a tractor that is similar.
You have the wrong shaft
So it would appear
Thanks for watching
Freeze your bearing race and it will slide right into place.