I love that you can now “star” an image in the image playback mode and it tells you what # of how many shots that image is...so helpful! I use in-camera focus stacking all the time and those new OM-1 features will be so helpful when I finally receive my camera!! Thank you for doing this detailed tutorial!!
Thanks. Also, you can just push the ISO button to add a 3-star rating quickly. I've since learned from other viewers here that that is it's default setting.
Great video. Many thanks for your awesome work. I attempted to assign a star rating by pressing the OK button as demonstrated but the camera went back to shooting mode. I tried various review settings, Ie 2 seconds, 4, 10, etc to no avail. Finally, I set the review timer to auto and then pressing the OK button. It worked as shown in your video. But, now, after reading the comments section, I see it's faster to use the ISO button to set a rating. In any case, thanks for your videos, they are much appreciated.
Hello Rob re focus stacking in-camera, I watched your recent OM1 presentation using the Goddox 350 flash head and remote triggers . There are two alternative solutions. The TT350 will work on the OM1 hotshoe for in-camera stacking proving the settings are fully manual. ( the oem flash that is supplied only works in manual flash mode). Secondly , applying the above, I found that a modified (your tip) Cannon flash cable takes both the TT350 and OEM flash heads off -camera and work normally in full manual settings ( typically for benchwork .. iso80/ f11/ 1/32fp) Rob you have my gratitude for all the information that you have produced on your videos. Regards Franco
Thanks for sharing your experience with the tt350. It's really only with the triggers that I was having problems. I should have mentioned that on-camera works in manual mode only. Someone suggested putting tape over the 4 pins on the hotshoe when using the trigger. I tried it and it works!
Great video! I finally got the OM-1, so now I am studying your videos to learn ho to use it😊. I did some hand held shots of flowers in the garden. Some failed because of wind, but most are great. I think the Photoshop stacked images are better than the camera-stacked - less ghosting and more depth of field, but the camera version is a good preview.
I have used this facility a lot. I echo the other comments about the need for a table showing the focus increments vs focal length and focal distance. What was also missing from the tutorial was choice of aperture. I find that f8 or f5.6 is about right. There is also the issue of number of shots and increment vs subject size. I have made a lot of experiments and am still somewhat confused and feel we need more definitive data.
Hello Rob, good idea with the star rating ! The only thing I make different is the focus point, I never focus in the middle as the camera goes from close to far.
Thanks. Focus stacking is different. It starts in the middle then focuses back and forth. Bracketing starts at the first point and works it way out. Also, you can just push the ISO button to add a 3-star rating quickly. That is it's default setting.
I love all of your videos, they are super helpful. Quick question please.... When pressing the shutter for photo stacking, do you have to hold the camera still for the whole time it is processing? Thanks very much
Like the others that commented, I always thought you were supposed to focus somewhere in the lower third, because the algo steps from close-to-far. Also, the ISO button on the OM-1 is set to provide a star rating by default in playback mode. You can just click the ISO button while chimping to very quickly enter a rating. By default it gives a 3-star rating.
Thanks, Marco! I didn't know that. As for focus, it starts in the middle then works it's way back and forth. Stacking is different that way. Bracketing starts from the first point and works it's way out.
But, Rob, I am using the OM-5 focus bracketing feature and I really see the focussing point go up and down, from the middle. Very confused here now@@RobTrek
Another excellent tutorial 🙂 Rob, could you test the focus stacking handheld? Also, how does focus stacking compare across models, is it a lot better on the OM-1?
I rented om-1 with 60mm and this feature worked great. I just rented it again with the 90 mm and it is no longer stacking. I do not get that busy screen while at stacks.
Hi, Keith. I use the godox flash system and it doesn't work properly with the in-camera focus stacking on the OM-1. It works fine on previous models that have in-camera focus stacking. I don't know about other brands, but I know the Olympus works as expected. Godox does have a new radio trigger that should allow it to work via a "legacy" single pin option but I haven't tested it. Your best option if you don't want the Olympus branded flashes is to do focus bracketing and stack using software on a pc.
@@RobTrek Hi Rob Thank you for the reply.. I have just received the Godox V860iii for the Olympus from Amazon, I figured I’d give it a try and if it doesn’t work I can always return it. Anyway so far so good , everything seems to be working fine, flash needs to be in manual mode but that’s not a problem as I usually use manual mode. I’ve used it hand held for up to 10 frames and everything came out great.. I did try 15 but it didn’t work but that’s probably my shaky hands, I expect it to work with 15 frames on a tripod with no issues. Thank you..
Great video as usual Rob. I do have a question. With focus stacking, it's clear that you focus on the middle of the field, and the camera takes exposures "in front of and behind" as noted in the manual. However, for focus bracketing, the manual does not say this. In fact I don't think it indicates what the camera does. I believe one starts the stack by focusing on the closest part of the scene. Is that your understanding?
Just Subscribed, Thank you Rob this is so helpful! It looked like the time to process the images wasn't much different from my EM1 mark 3, would you say the OM-1 is much faster? Second question, does the EM1 mark3 work the same in regards to picking the center of the object? I have been picking the closest point to the lens; wonder if I have been doing it wrong?
The OM1 is a bit faster, but not substantially in this regard. Yes, the EM1.3 works the same in "stacking" mode. Another tip is when focusing on very close subjects, you might want to try focusing about 1/3 the way in vs. right in the middle.
Hi, sorry for the late reply. Focus Stacking works well with "Olympus" branded flashes. However, with 3rd party TTL flashes like Godox, the Focus Stacking does not work on the OM-1. Non TTL flashes should work but you may need to set a delay in the stacking menu for flash recycle times. I have two videos related to using flash and focus bracketing/stacking ruclips.net/video/Ibl0V0tVsQw/видео.html & ruclips.net/video/7nM-MZMD-EA/видео.html
Has something changed on the OM-1 as previous cameras you focused on the front of the subject and the camera would take a few shots in front then step back through the image. I remember with Panasonic bracketing you could go fron tto back or from the centre. But in you started in the centre Zerene or Helicon had problems stacked the series if you di dnot go from the front to the back.
When in the "Focus Stacking" menu, you need to focus near the middle. Although it's not clear in the manual on the EM1.3, when I tested it I found it to behave the same as the OM1.
@@RobTrek I found that if you used a differential of 3 or less you needed to focus very close to the front of the subject. EM1.3 but I suppose it depends on the lens and fstop as well possibly. I need to play around with this more.
Dear Rob, can you please explain if it is possible to trigger the OM-1 focus stacking photography with the OI. Share app. I don’t get it working, if I use the OI Share app as remote my OM-1 only makes “normal” pictures. Greetings from NL. BTW I love your explaining video’s about the OM-1.
Thank you for the video. The reason there is so much cropping on Olympus cameras is because the super sharp 60mm Marco has ridiculous focus breathing. In order to make the camera work with this lens, they need to do a big crop. The Panasonic 30mm macro has no focus breathing and I am guessing the upcoming 90mm Pro will not have this issue either. Unfortunately there is no way to set the crop for a lens that does not suffer with this issue. Are you listening OMDS?
In a camera shop today and really liked the OM-1, Considering on buying it, But with live composites or ND filters is your final blended image in RAW or is it only jpeg?
@@RobTrek That's pretty cool to have thr final blended live composit in RAW. As a Nikon Z9 owner it is called multiple exposure and you can choose up to 9 images but the final blended image is in jpeg which sucks canon is taking that route also. I think I'm going to buy an OM-1 thanks.
Does the remote control / release come with the OM-1, or is it a separate purchase? Applications like this one, or high-res mode, or low light photography can benefit from not touching the camera before the shot.
The official wireless remote is sold separately. I have a generic one. I'm also going to make another video on this topic to cover more details like this. Thanks.
I have noticed a couple of things while trying focus stacking. 1. Some of my images are out of focus. The camera obviously ignores these when constructing the final image but I wonder how I might get more of them in focus so as to be more useful. 2. I cant get the LSF .jpg setting to stick. It keeps defaulting to LF when I toggle back and forth between stacking and normal mode. I have to choose LSF each time I set Stacking. Great video and thanks. Geoff
Hi, Geoff. I made a second video covering how you can improve in-camera focus stacking. ruclips.net/video/GXXCSqMfdY8/видео.html As for LSF sticking, try going into Shooting menu #1, Page 1, Detailed Settings, and change all four colums to L-SF.
The "star" rating of the stacked JPEGs is a great idea, but I think you can do it faster by pressing the ISO (star) key in playback mode and turning the front wheel to select the number of stars instead of going through the menu.
Hi, on my E-M1x I can’t find the star marking function you used to mark the stacked photo. Is this an OM-1 only function? Perhaps you or one of your readers now. I have looked in the manual.
Interesting that you focused in the center of the image to start the focus stack sequence. In the Nikon focus stacking we are told to focus on the nearest point we want in focus, and that it will "step" into the frame from that point using the step size and number frames specified. Clever idea to star-rate the focus merged JPGs in-camera while shooting to make them easier to find on the computer. I also have started applying different color labels to different focus stack sequences on the computer so that it is easier to pick out where different sequences start and end in the photo browser. Capture One works very much like Adobe Lightroom and Olympus Workspace for that. Regarding the cropping of the merged image you showed on the OM-1, the manual says "The composite image is enlarged 7% horizontally and vertically." which would explain that behavior. One more caveat the manual states is "Pictures taken with an art filter selected for picture mode are recorded in [Natural] mode". Just an FYI for your viewers.
Thanks. The stacking feature works a bit differently than the standard bracketing. Stacking works it's way back and forth when bracketing. Normal bracketing mode starts at the focus point and works it's way out. I'm going to cover some of the finer details in another video.
I believe that in the Focus Stacking mode OM cameras record two images closer than the focus point and the remainder up to 15 total beyond the focus point.
What's the maximum flash sync speed when focus stacking in camera? I have the Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark II and the maximum flash sync speed is only 1/50 sec. when focus stacking in camera which I find quite annoying and doesn't make sense whereas taking a normal single shot is 1/250 sec. flash sync speed. Thanks in advance.
Rob - I have tried focus stacking several times with my new OM-1 and some of the shots are completely out of focus. Some are clearly focusing fine. I have tried different settings but not all variations and have tried it with Image Stabilization on and off. Is this typical? Kinda frustrated. Shooting with my new 8-25mm and using it to practice landscape shots for an upcoming trip overseas. Any thoughts on this?
I've made a followup video to this one. ruclips.net/video/GXXCSqMfdY8/видео.html If you've seen this and still need help, please email a sample set of jpgs to rob@robtrek.com and I can take a look.
The "Focus Stacking" feature automatically moves the focus point to the foreground then brackets it's way to the background. This is different than when in the "Focus BKT" menu where you would start your focus point at the front (closest focus point).
OM-1 is great camera, but focus stacking is inferior, Canon R8 has phenomenal focus stacking, it can stack image from 100 images, it decides how many images needs,crop is minimal and result is always perfect, with OM-1 i have often blurry stripes..but image quality of portraits is way better than Canon R8, with OM-1 people look like real on photo, so I returned Canon and keep OM-1 with 12-40mm 2.8 Pro II.. in future it would be nice to build in OM cameras focus stacking similar to Canon..
The capturing process takes several seconds. If the subject moves during that period, the stack will be ruined. My Sony A7R5 is also "slow". Is anyone aware of a camera achieving automatic captures of images as rapidly as, for example, burst mode (multiple shots per second), please? My objective is to capture stacks of frequently moving subjects (e.g. insects) during very brief periods of no subject movement. I don't need in-camera processing to achieve a final image in the field. I'm perfectly willing to use stacking software on my PC to do that.
Sorry about that. I think I've since fixed this problem with a new hdmi switcher. The frequency of that ringing is above my hearing range so I don't hear it. However, when I pulled up a frequency graph of the audio, I can see it visually a spike at about 11khz.
@@RobTrek Thanks Rob, I’ve tried my best but couldn’t do the whole episode 😎 maybe I’ll try with muted sound and transcript. Other videos from your channel are ok and content-wise superb.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Your tutorials are concise, comprehensive and easily understood. Thank you for your help.
Happy to help!
I love that you can now “star” an image in the image playback mode and it tells you what # of how many shots that image is...so helpful! I use in-camera focus stacking all the time and those new OM-1 features will be so helpful when I finally receive my camera!! Thank you for doing this detailed tutorial!!
Thanks. Also, you can just push the ISO button to add a 3-star rating quickly. I've since learned from other viewers here that that is it's default setting.
Danke!
Thank you!
Thanks
Thank you!
Rob great post. Looking forward to the next focus stacking post.
Thanks!
Thanks! Very helpful.
Thank you!
Thank you so much for making these fantastic instructional videos. It is massively appreciated.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks!
Thank you!
Nice video, Rob. Great tip about the star ratings.
Thanks!
Thanks for another really helpful video! I have not tried this process yet, but will do so soon!
Glad it was helpful!
Bravo, a great tutorial, Rob.
Thanks!
Great video Rob! Love the tip about adding the star on the stacked images. I had been taking “palm” photos to signal end of stacks!
Thanks, Caitlin! The palm photos still useful for general bracketing.
Great video. Many thanks for your awesome work.
I attempted to assign a star rating by pressing the OK button as demonstrated but the camera went back to shooting mode. I tried various review settings, Ie 2 seconds, 4, 10, etc to no avail. Finally, I set the review timer to auto and then pressing the OK button. It worked as shown in your video. But, now, after reading the comments section, I see it's faster to use the ISO button to set a rating. In any case, thanks for your videos, they are much appreciated.
Fantastic
Thank you so much 😀
Fabulous explanation, Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Looking forward to seeing this one!!!
Thanks!
Hi Rob, I don't think you mentioned that the screen does show a black rectangle as a guide to the final image
Actually, I didn't even see it with my dying eyes. I see it now. Thanks.
Hello Rob re focus stacking in-camera, I watched your recent OM1 presentation using the Goddox 350 flash head and remote triggers . There are two alternative solutions.
The TT350 will work on the OM1 hotshoe for in-camera stacking proving the settings are fully manual. ( the oem flash that is supplied only works in manual flash mode).
Secondly , applying the above, I found that a modified (your tip) Cannon flash cable takes both the TT350 and OEM flash heads off -camera and work normally in full manual settings
( typically for benchwork .. iso80/ f11/ 1/32fp)
Rob you have my gratitude for all the information that you have produced on your videos.
Regards Franco
Thanks for sharing your experience with the tt350. It's really only with the triggers that I was having problems. I should have mentioned that on-camera works in manual mode only. Someone suggested putting tape over the 4 pins on the hotshoe when using the trigger. I tried it and it works!
thank you
Welcome!
Great video! I finally got the OM-1, so now I am studying your videos to learn ho to use it😊. I did some hand held shots of flowers in the garden. Some failed because of wind, but most are great. I think the Photoshop stacked images are better than the camera-stacked - less ghosting and more depth of field, but the camera version is a good preview.
Thanks. Generally, software will do a better job.
I like the new thumb nail color scheme.
Cool.
I have used this facility a lot. I echo the other comments about the need for a table showing the focus increments vs focal length and focal distance. What was also missing from the tutorial was choice of aperture. I find that f8 or f5.6 is about right. There is also the issue of number of shots and increment vs subject size. I have made a lot of experiments and am still somewhat confused and feel we need more definitive data.
Thanks for the feedback.
Great comment. I was getting a headache here. Using f4 and my image was not completely sharp. Then I used f5.6 and it was sharp from beginning to end
Hello Rob, good idea with the star rating ! The only thing I make different is the focus point, I never focus in the middle as the camera goes from close to far.
Thanks. Focus stacking is different. It starts in the middle then focuses back and forth. Bracketing starts at the first point and works it way out. Also, you can just push the ISO button to add a 3-star rating quickly. That is it's default setting.
@@RobTrek again learned something from you , many thanks!
I love all of your videos, they are super helpful. Quick question please.... When pressing the shutter for photo stacking, do you have to hold the camera still for the whole time it is processing? Thanks very much
No. Once the camera starts processing, the sensor is off and you can move or recompose the shot.
Like the others that commented, I always thought you were supposed to focus somewhere in the lower third, because the algo steps from close-to-far. Also, the ISO button on the OM-1 is set to provide a star rating by default in playback mode. You can just click the ISO button while chimping to very quickly enter a rating. By default it gives a 3-star rating.
Thanks, Marco! I didn't know that. As for focus, it starts in the middle then works it's way back and forth. Stacking is different that way. Bracketing starts from the first point and works it's way out.
@@RobTrek Awesome. Thanks. I've been doing it wrong!
There are some finer points to this that I will cover in the next video.
But, Rob, I am using the OM-5 focus bracketing feature and I really see the focussing point go up and down, from the middle. Very confused here now@@RobTrek
Re hand held, yes, I use it a lot in the field as a tripod is No use. Defo need a steady hand, but you know if you have taken a good shot.
Thanks again for your feedback. I do appreciate it when users share their real world experience.
Another excellent tutorial 🙂
Rob, could you test the focus stacking handheld? Also, how does focus stacking compare across models, is it a lot better on the OM-1?
I'll give it a shot. I did a few handheld before making the video with no problem. Just need a steady hand.
Would focus stacking work for astrophotography? Great video thanks
Techinically I think it would work. A good person to ask is Ben on the "Narrowband Channel".ruclips.net/user/TheNarrowbandChannel
I rented om-1 with 60mm and this feature worked great. I just rented it again with the 90 mm and it is no longer stacking. I do not get that busy screen while at stacks.
Most likely the camera needs a firmware update. The 90mm macro was added in ver 1.3.
@@RobTrek mine is 1.5
Hi Rob
When using flash with focus stacking does the flash have to be an Olympus brand flash ??
Thanks for the great video tutorials..
Hi, Keith. I use the godox flash system and it doesn't work properly with the in-camera focus stacking on the OM-1. It works fine on previous models that have in-camera focus stacking. I don't know about other brands, but I know the Olympus works as expected. Godox does have a new radio trigger that should allow it to work via a "legacy" single pin option but I haven't tested it. Your best option if you don't want the Olympus branded flashes is to do focus bracketing and stack using software on a pc.
@@RobTrek Hi Rob
Thank you for the reply..
I have just received the Godox V860iii for the Olympus from Amazon, I figured I’d give it a try and if it doesn’t work I can always return it. Anyway so far so good , everything seems to be working fine, flash needs to be in manual mode but that’s not a problem as I usually use manual mode. I’ve used it hand held for up to 10 frames and everything came out great.. I did try 15 but it didn’t work but that’s probably my shaky hands, I expect it to work with 15 frames on a tripod with no issues.
Thank you..
Great video as usual Rob. I do have a question. With focus stacking, it's clear that you focus on the middle of the field, and the camera takes exposures "in front of and behind" as noted in the manual. However, for focus bracketing, the manual does not say this. In fact I don't think it indicates what the camera does. I believe one starts the stack by focusing on the closest part of the scene. Is that your understanding?
Yes, it starts at the focus point you select, then steps to infinity from there.
Just Subscribed, Thank you Rob this is so helpful! It looked like the time to process the images wasn't much different from my EM1 mark 3, would you say the OM-1 is much faster? Second question, does the EM1 mark3 work the same in regards to picking the center of the object? I have been picking the closest point to the lens; wonder if I have been doing it wrong?
The OM1 is a bit faster, but not substantially in this regard. Yes, the EM1.3 works the same in "stacking" mode. Another tip is when focusing on very close subjects, you might want to try focusing about 1/3 the way in vs. right in the middle.
Rating is great! Isn’t that possible on the em 1 mark lll? I cannot see it there?
I don't see a way to do it either. Seems like it would be a simple firmware update.
Do you do Focus Stacking while using flash?
Hi, sorry for the late reply. Focus Stacking works well with "Olympus" branded flashes. However, with 3rd party TTL flashes like Godox, the Focus Stacking does not work on the OM-1. Non TTL flashes should work but you may need to set a delay in the stacking menu for flash recycle times. I have two videos related to using flash and focus bracketing/stacking ruclips.net/video/Ibl0V0tVsQw/видео.html & ruclips.net/video/7nM-MZMD-EA/видео.html
Has something changed on the OM-1 as previous cameras you focused on the front of the subject and the camera would take a few shots in front then step back through the image. I remember with Panasonic bracketing you could go fron tto back or from the centre. But in you started in the centre Zerene or Helicon had problems stacked the series if you di dnot go from the front to the back.
When in the "Focus Stacking" menu, you need to focus near the middle. Although it's not clear in the manual on the EM1.3, when I tested it I found it to behave the same as the OM1.
@@RobTrek I found that if you used a differential of 3 or less you needed to focus very close to the front of the subject. EM1.3 but I suppose it depends on the lens and fstop as well possibly. I need to play around with this more.
Dear Rob, can you please explain if it is possible to trigger the OM-1 focus stacking photography with the OI. Share app. I don’t get it working, if I use the OI Share app as remote my OM-1 only makes “normal” pictures. Greetings from NL. BTW I love your explaining video’s about the OM-1.
I don't think focus stacking or any of the computational features work in the OI Share app.
Thanks Rob, I’ll contact OM-System with this question. Perhaps they can make an improvement to the OI.Share app.
Greetings from NL
Thank you for the video. The reason there is so much cropping on Olympus cameras is because the super sharp 60mm Marco has ridiculous focus breathing. In order to make the camera work with this lens, they need to do a big crop. The Panasonic 30mm macro has no focus breathing and I am guessing the upcoming 90mm Pro will not have this issue either. Unfortunately there is no way to set the crop for a lens that does not suffer with this issue. Are you listening OMDS?
Thanks for the information. That makes sense.
In a camera shop today and really liked the OM-1, Considering on buying it, But with live composites or ND filters is your final blended image in RAW or is it only jpeg?
Live comp, ND, and Hi-Res can be saved Raw. Focus stacking creates a JPG, but saves the individual raw images separately if you want to process later.
@@RobTrek That's pretty cool to have thr final blended live composit in RAW. As a Nikon Z9 owner it is called multiple exposure and you can choose up to 9 images but the final blended image is in jpeg which sucks canon is taking that route also. I think I'm going to buy an OM-1 thanks.
Ingenius to touch the camera while it's recording.
Thanks!
Does the remote control / release come with the OM-1, or is it a separate purchase? Applications like this one, or high-res mode, or low light photography can benefit from not touching the camera before the shot.
The official wireless remote is sold separately. I have a generic one. I'm also going to make another video on this topic to cover more details like this. Thanks.
@@RobTrek Thanks. I remember when Olympus 3040Z came with a remote. Now a $2200 pro camera requires a separate purchase. Times change.
Does it keep magnification same while focus stacking it on
It should. Some lenses focus breath more than others, but stacking software will usually correct for that.
I have noticed a couple of things while trying focus stacking.
1. Some of my images are out of focus. The camera obviously ignores these when constructing the final image but I wonder how I might get more of them in focus so as to be more useful.
2. I cant get the LSF .jpg setting to stick. It keeps defaulting to LF when I toggle back and forth between stacking and normal mode. I have to choose LSF each time I set Stacking. Great video and thanks. Geoff
Hi, Geoff. I made a second video covering how you can improve in-camera focus stacking. ruclips.net/video/GXXCSqMfdY8/видео.html As for LSF sticking, try going into Shooting menu #1, Page 1, Detailed Settings, and change all four colums to L-SF.
@@RobTrek That’s great. Many thanks for an unbelievably prompt reply!.
That tip re. Getting LSF to stick worked. Thanks.
The "star" rating of the stacked JPEGs is a great idea, but I think you can do it faster by pressing the ISO (star) key in playback mode and turning the front wheel to select the number of stars instead of going through the menu.
Thanks. Yes, the ISO button is handy for that.
Thanks for your insight. Just a question… Should you ever use a tripod or there is a place for handheld focus stacking shooting?
You can handhold if you're very steady. I've done many shots handheld with focus stacking. Just keep your shutter speed up. I'm pretty good at 1/60th.
Sorry if it's a stupid question, when in 1:1 magnification does focus stacking work? Mine doesn't. On a 60mm and om1
Hi. Unfortunately, I don't have the 60mm macro to try myself. A good person to ask is Emily Talpin: www.youtube.com/@EmilieT
Hi, on my E-M1x I can’t find the star marking function you used to mark the stacked photo. Is this an OM-1 only function? Perhaps you or one of your readers now. I have looked in the manual.
I think this is new to the OM-1.
@@RobTrek Ok, thank you. I am waiting for the OM-1 to be available again, and then I plan to buy one.
Interesting that you focused in the center of the image to start the focus stack sequence. In the Nikon focus stacking we are told to focus on the nearest point we want in focus, and that it will "step" into the frame from that point using the step size and number frames specified.
Clever idea to star-rate the focus merged JPGs in-camera while shooting to make them easier to find on the computer. I also have started applying different color labels to different focus stack sequences on the computer so that it is easier to pick out where different sequences start and end in the photo browser. Capture One works very much like Adobe Lightroom and Olympus Workspace for that.
Regarding the cropping of the merged image you showed on the OM-1, the manual says "The composite image is enlarged 7% horizontally and vertically." which would explain that behavior. One more caveat the manual states is "Pictures taken with an art filter selected for picture mode are recorded in [Natural] mode". Just an FYI for your viewers.
Thanks. The stacking feature works a bit differently than the standard bracketing. Stacking works it's way back and forth when bracketing. Normal bracketing mode starts at the focus point and works it's way out. I'm going to cover some of the finer details in another video.
I believe that in the Focus Stacking mode OM cameras record two images closer than the focus point and the remainder up to 15 total beyond the focus point.
@@bobfinlay7417 I've been doing more testing today for the next video and that seems about right.
The camera stacks the images automatically?
Yes!
@@RobTrek wow! But how do you deal with camera shake while shooting handheld? Because the camera doesn't center the images before stacking or does it?
@@mlzs_ As long as you hold the camera steady, it works fine.
What's the maximum flash sync speed when focus stacking in camera? I have the Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark II and the maximum flash sync speed is only 1/50 sec. when focus stacking in camera which I find quite annoying and doesn't make sense whereas taking a normal single shot is 1/250 sec. flash sync speed. Thanks in advance.
On the OM-1, it's 1/100th. The reason it's not 1/250 is because focus stacking uses Silent electronic shutter.
I'm wondering why you physically tripped the shutter? The camera was shaking through out the video, why not use a remote, or even the delayed timer?
Using a remote or shutter delay would have been better. Thanks.
Rob - I have tried focus stacking several times with my new OM-1 and some of the shots are completely out of focus. Some are clearly focusing fine. I have tried different settings but not all variations and have tried it with Image Stabilization on and off. Is this typical? Kinda frustrated. Shooting with my new 8-25mm and using it to practice landscape shots for an upcoming trip overseas. Any thoughts on this?
I've made a followup video to this one. ruclips.net/video/GXXCSqMfdY8/видео.html If you've seen this and still need help, please email a sample set of jpgs to rob@robtrek.com and I can take a look.
@@RobTrek I have seen it and will email some shots over. Thank you!
Thank you Rob! But I can't find a way to make my OM-1 automatically delete the original photos after stacking.
I don't think it can be done automatically, but you can bulk delete files. I made a video here: ruclips.net/video/W5yp-340i_o/видео.html
Why focus in the center and not at the end or the beginning of the flower ?
The "Focus Stacking" feature automatically moves the focus point to the foreground then brackets it's way to the background. This is different than when in the "Focus BKT" menu where you would start your focus point at the front (closest focus point).
EM-1 Mk I can do it as long as you have the v4.0 upgrade or later. I know this because I have it.
Good to know! Thank you.
OM-1 is great camera, but focus stacking is inferior, Canon R8 has phenomenal focus stacking, it can stack image from 100 images, it decides how many images needs,crop is minimal and result is always perfect, with OM-1 i have often blurry stripes..but image quality of portraits is way better than Canon R8, with OM-1 people look like real on photo, so I returned Canon and keep OM-1 with 12-40mm 2.8 Pro II.. in future it would be nice to build in OM cameras focus stacking similar to Canon..
Thanks for sharing your experience. I didn't know the r8 had focus stacking. I'll have to try that.
The capturing process takes several seconds. If the subject moves during that period, the stack will be ruined. My Sony A7R5 is also "slow".
Is anyone aware of a camera achieving automatic captures of images as rapidly as, for example, burst mode (multiple shots per second), please? My objective is to capture stacks of frequently moving subjects (e.g. insects) during very brief periods of no subject movement.
I don't need in-camera processing to achieve a final image in the field. I'm perfectly willing to use stacking software on my PC to do that.
I'm not aware of any. But a good person to ask might be Michael Widell. www.youtube.com/@MicaelWidell
there is some crazy ringing noise in the background... 😔
Sorry about that. I think I've since fixed this problem with a new hdmi switcher. The frequency of that ringing is above my hearing range so I don't hear it. However, when I pulled up a frequency graph of the audio, I can see it visually a spike at about 11khz.
@@RobTrek Thanks Rob, I’ve tried my best but couldn’t do the whole episode 😎 maybe I’ll try with muted sound and transcript. Other videos from your channel are ok and content-wise superb.
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