@Johnathan Nicholas i really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and Im in the hacking process atm. Takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
Hands down the best adjustment video I've seen. Love the fact that you've left out the music etc. (and explain the manual here and there) so we can actually also hear what the drivetrain sounds like.
Great video. On my 7000 i'm finding that the cage never gets sufficiently inboard to not rub on the small chainring/big cog combo. Even if i back the L adjustment all the way out. I guess I may have too much tension so even when the shifter is completely released, the cage doesn't drop inboard enough so as not to rub.
At 20:02 you screw out the L screw before going into the trim position and align the lines via the tension screw. As I understand the Shimano manual the L screw should actually remain in the position where the front of the derailleur cage lines up with the big chain ring. Are you sure the L screw is supposed to be screwed out before setting the tension?
As long as the initial securing of the cable to derailleur process is complete, it doesn't really matter when you back the L screw off. The only purpose of tightening the L screw and lining the outer cage to the same plane as the big ring is to position the derailleur in the ideal location to secure the cable. Once the cable is secured, it doesn't matter when you back off the L screw. I do it early because it will have to be backed out anyway to make the small ring adjustments.
Hi Joey, thanks for the video. Your video made the shimano manual clear for me. However, I was still not able to shift from the small chainring to the large chainring, even after following these steps. I have the shimano 105 R7000 groupset. The front derailleur moves, but it's not enough to even move the chain up. Second issue I'm facing is the 105 front shifter (front derailleur) not engaging to shift to larger chainring unless I move the small tab between the shifters. These are 2 separate issues I'm currently having with my 105 shifter and front derailleur. Any ideas? Thanks!
I think Shimano dropped the ball with these front derailleurs. My main problem was coming home after a long hard ride and having my left hand more sore than my legs from all the lever ( derailleur ) resistance. I solved the problem by installing a Microsoft compatible ( 11 speed ) front derailleur. It is a conventional design with the cable anchored on an arm that hangs to the left of the main body ( like most front derailleurs ), thereby increasing leverage and reducing resistance at the shift lever. It shifts just as fast as the Shimano and the shift lever trim positions are more precise than with Shimano. Setup is simple, the two limit screws and cable tension. I was able to get the cable tension tight enough by pulling on it with pliers while tightening the anchor bolt. No need to use the barrel adjuster at this point. I am very happy with this outcome, just wish I thought of it sooner. The icing on the cake was that I sold the used FD8000 on eBay for more than I paid for the new Microshift derailleur (also eBay ).
Great video. Helps a lot! I wonder: Whats the purpose of the FINAL trim at 16:30? Souldn't it be fine to run small ring and large cog without shifting into this final trim?
Definitely a great video with a great explanation. As you said, the shimano manual may not be so clear with the instructions (at least for beginners), but here you clarified very well it. Of all videos I watched to try to better understand what I was doing wrong, you video was the only one that worked! Thanks for the video!
I agree, but on some bikes, there are really no other options. If you go to about the 10:30 point in the video, you'll see the plate is all the way against the braze-on hanger. The seat tube on the frame is too round to match the contour of the plate, co this was the only option in this particular situation.
Thanks for doing this video, it’s a really big help. One question; why did you move the derailleur back inward after clamping the cable and before setting the tension with the barrel adjuster? This step doesn’t appear to be in the Shimano tech doc. I assume you’ve added this step from experience. Or is it an essential step that the tech doc missed out? Thanks, Tim.
By initially adjusting the low limit screw out, it sets the derailleur up to clamp the cable in the ideal spot on the cable. It doesn't really matter if you shift the derailleur up, trim the shifter and set the line on the barrel adjustment screw first, or back the limit screw to the approximate location first. It's not really essential, it just seems quicker. Sorry for the confusion. Thanks for the question though!
Thank you so much for this video! I have basically never repaired a bike and even less with this particular part on bikes. Without your video I would never have fixed this. Now I am ready for tomorrow when I will make my longest cycling route so far this season. 💪 Cheers! 🍻
the shimano manual only focuses on the rubbing of the inner plate on both top and low adjustments, i followed the instructions and got slight rubbing on the completely normal largest chainring smallest sprocket combo, so i said f it and eyeballed the outer plate clearance when doing the top adjustment.
Hi Joey, I've got one where the stabilizing screw won't reach the backing plate on the seat tube. I thought I remembered you running into the same thing and epoxying a piece of something onto the downtube, but I can't find it now. Can you give me any more details on what and how you rigged up something that worked in this situation? So this is a replacement of a 5800 to a R7000. With the 5800, the screw reached the plate, but not with the R7000. Frame is a 2016 Trek Emonda ALR 5. Thanks for any help!
Joey, this is very helpful, but I'm confused after watching this and comparing it to the dealer manual. The dealer manual shows that both the high and the low adjustments should be made with the chain on the largest cog of the cassette. The high adjustment is made on the big chain ring, and the low adjustment is made on the small chain ring. In this video, the top adjustment is made on the smallest cog of the cassette (which makes sense, but doesn't follow the manual). Is it better to set the high adjustment based on the video or the dealer manual? Is there a difference?
To me they basically accomplish the same thing. I would rather have the chain clear the derailleur cage in the big ring/small cog combo. Sometimes it's a compromise of having a slight rub in one extreme or the other. In other words, I'd rather have some slight rub in the big/big combo as I'm rarely in that gear for long. Either way I don't think it matters much. Just go with what works for you. Thanks for the question and your feedback, I appreciate it!
At 20:20 it wont shift up. Completed the hight and angle adjustment, tensioned the cable while in the lowest gear, and backed off the L limit screw. When i shift to the higher gear (at 20:20) it won’t even move enough to move the chain. What is going on
@svenzanetti5637 it was caused by the crank being too far inwards. I played around with the fd and managed to get it to work fairly well, but shims would be the appropriate solution to fix the skewed chain line.
@@mikpiotto thanks! I actually managed to get it fairly well too by screwing the H screw pretty far in and starting with the L screw slightly less screwed in than in the video.
So my derailleur was already set-up for me however it does not seem to have that little tape-on thingy. The brace-on mount does seem different though, it has a flat part seemingly designed for that support screw to rest on. Is that possible? Ever seen anything like that? Bike is a Wilier Cento1NDR with this Shimano Ultegra groupset.
In your first picture of the tension screw where you said it was too far in, that amount of threads showing was actually fine if that’s where you ended up after setting the tension. Later when you decided to do a complete set up, it had magically been run in quite a bit further, and that was not in a good final position so it needed to be corrected there, but the first instance was fine, and you changed it between shots without saying anything.
The original setup with the adjustment screw out a few turns was where this bike rolled in. I tried to get the lines for the correct tension to line up (with the derailleur in the big ring with the first trim position down), but the tension was still too loose, which is why the adjustment screw was all the way in before I reset everything. It took up a lot of time, so I edited that art out as I thought it was irrelevant. Sorry for the confusion. The important bit starts after that anyway.
This derailleur is so different, it's like it was designed by aliens. One comment already has suggested adjustment screws magically reposition themselves in the video without explanation. I've also noticed that the place the cable emerges from under the fastening plate magically changes. At first it emerges under or to the left of the nub on the fastening plate and/or the fastening plate was not rotated all the way to the right. Later in the video the cable comes out at the right side base of the nub on the fastening plate, and the fastening plate was rotated to the right, all as shown in Shimano's dealer's manual. On my new bike, I was having zero luck getting the tension right on the cable doing it the way the manual and this video wanted. With all due regard to getting the lines to align while in H trimmed position, I think its better to make sure the cable is not slack or too tight in L trimmed, so L trim works properly. For me that meant shifting all the way down, unscrewing the L screw and tensioner screw fully, unfastening the cable and using a cable puller. Then tried the low trim with the cable sticking out and made sure it worked properly (could shift from high to high trimmed to low to low trimmed). Then looped the cable around and pushed the plastic cap on. Lines were in alignment in H trimmed, about a mm beyond in H. Didn't really need to use the tensioner screw, just screwed it in until snug. L screw needed to be screwed in a little, just until left side of the cage almost touched chain.
Complete and very clear! I solved my FD not shifting-up watching this video! Initially read the Shimano Manual, and boy it was hard to visualize and understand what the manual required us to do. This video tutorial was perfect for people with minimal bike repairing skills. Thanks!
No matter how I set this mech up to get the lowest position to not rub is impossible without the mech actually touching my frame. All the other positions do not catch except 1st and 1st in the lowest position?! Originally my bike didn't come with the mech support pad so I've fitted that and still got the same issue?
Question what is the shifter position when you clapping the cable to the derailleur. The shifter should be in the low gear gear positing of high gear position. Thanks
hello everyone, if i understood correctly with regard to the outer plate the front must be parallel to the teeth of the chainring and the back of the plate slightly inward towards the bike or slightly beyond the chainring? can the rear of the plate be adjusted with the derailleur cable attached? If yes, how? thank you in advance.
Thank you for this! My front derailleur was rubbing even after taking it to the bike shop; your video was the only one I found that explained how to tension the cable correctly and I got it sorted out.
Thank you for this tutorial, Joey. You have clearly explained the purpose of the step where the outer plate lines up along the big ring prior to tightening up the cable.
Hi, The dealer manual says that adjusting should be done twice: 1. The biggest chain ring and the biggest cog. 2nd time on the biggest chain ring and the biggest cog... you don`t do this like this... why? It this rubbing normal in the position from 2x11 and 1x11 for Shimano 105 R7000 ? I`m fighiting with this FOR DAYS. No I did like you in the video (not adjusting according to manual) and it better I think... but I am confused about rubbing the chain like I wrote above... I`ve heard that it should not at all.... is that true... ? Mb they talked about other models .... :/ Would you please answer... you are my lost hope!! (if you do not understand something because of my english just write it. I will try to explain in better)
Basically, I follow along with Shimano's method of adjustment as described in their PDF manual. I think the biggest confusion comes from the way the high and low limit screws differ from a conventional front derailleur and the way you use the low limit screw to initially position the derailleur to secure the shift cable. This is still the biggest mistake I see from DIYers and shop mechanics alike - not enough tension on the cable on the initial set up. I have another video that shows another version of the same setup plus all the positions of the shifter as well. It may be helpful in making sense of these front derailleurs. Hopefully, you will find it helpful. ruclips.net/video/T57glZEeJw8/видео.html
i have rapid fire 3 speed gear changer on the front and it's new ! shifting down the front gears while travel is perfect . up gear changing fron the small to the big gear is different i have to hold the lever down while the gears are changing is that normal
i have a doubt, so the rubbing whit the low ring and when u are using the big ring backwards its normal ? i doesnt make u lose power or damage the chain ?
Thanks so much for this video. I've always done my own setting up but was having trouble getting to grips with this type on my new bike. I would never have known about adjusting tension to line up the lines. It turned out the whole thing was set up wrong even though the previous owner had just had it serviced!!!Well done. 😮
See my other post. That low trim is the last very small amount of movement on the low end, so if the cable is too tight (or loose), or if the L screw is screwed in too far, its not going to happen. What worked for me: making low trim priority #1. Meaning, shift all the way down, unfasten the cable, unscrew the L screw until it's completely retracted, remove the tensioner screw, use a cable puller, make sure there's no slack in the cable between the frame and derailleur (but isn't tight either), fasten the cable (don't worry about looping it around the top yet), make sure the low trim is working the way its supposed to (can shift from high to high trimmed to low to low trimmed). Then do everything else that needs doing (loop the cable around the top, place the cap, screw in the L screw until the cage almost rubs, screw in tensioner screw, adjust the high gears if needed).
Very nice video, very clear! I have just one question. At 18:49 in the video you hook up the cable and say to take all the slack out. Does that mean the shifter needs to be in the lowest position, what Shimano would define as position (v) as shown on page 18 of the dealer manual? I look forward to hearing back from you.
Yes that is correct. A common mistake I see (an even made myself) is to have the shifter in the low or small ring position (w in the Shimano manual), get the cable set, and the result will be difficulty getting it to shift to the big ring due to a lack of cable tension. The "v" position is the low trim position on the shifter and position the shifter must be in to get a successful cable attachment to the derailleur. Thanks for your question and feedback!
You got yourself a subscriber. I have a problem with the trim from the small ring first trim position doesn’t do anything. It doesn’t move the derailleur. With the second click the derailleur move the chain directly on the big ring. The trim from the big ring works fine on both ends.
1. Check derailleur is set at correct height and outer cage plate is parallel with chain ring line 2. With shifter completely in lowest position (ie. not taking up cable slack) Check low limit is not too far outboard by by pushing with your thumb on cage to inboard of bike. Correct position is inner cage plate .5-1.0mm inboard of outer link of chain. 3. If first two are correct, you likely have a cable tension issue, assuming your cable and housing is not contaminated affecting the glide or friction of inner cable through outer cable housing
I agree with Mike. Too much tension won't let the der. move that last bit of trim distance to reach the limit screw. If this is the case, then my guess of why it works at the big chainring is because this is where the spring has the most torsion...so it's overriding the high cable tension. However, at the inboard position the spring is close to home and is not torsioned enough to override. Or your low limit screw is too far outboard. One of the two. Simple RoT: Tension for chain moving up - Slack for chain moving down.
Absolutely great video. Nicely presented slow and very easy to follow. I have set my 105#R7000 similar but not to the fines as you. What a great job . Thank you so much Gerald south Wales UK
Thank you for this helpful video. I just bought a new bike and wondered why the trim in the large ring is not doing anything . Would that be too much cable tension or not enough ?
Thank you so much! I've been endlessly going into shops for adjustments on my 105 FD-R7000 and getting really frustrated with it going out of adjustment very quickly. I think they just were doing basic adjustments and never stepped it back to the beginning as needed. This video helped a ton.
Great video!! What I noticed with my FD and it appears to happen here. The high limit screw is screwed in so much that the low limit screw doesnt touch anymore in the small chainring. I don't have any issues shifting but it seems like the only thing the l limit is good for is getting the initial cable tension correct
I wonder why Shimano changed the front derailleurs so much over the previous generation ones. It certainly looks as random and ugly as a Michael Bay Transformer.
This design, while much different to set up, works much better (when set up correctly) over any previous front derailleur. It basically has the power of an electronic derailleur in a mechanical design, plus less chain drops off the chainrings. I will say that getting inset up right is a proven problem for new and old mechanics...
Brilliant. I've watched so many vids claiming to show how to set up the trim and none of them have been right. Showing how to start from scratch was a bonus although I'm now scratching my head as to why my Giant Defy came with Ultegra but no back plate or stand off screw. Lazy bike store or do Giant think they're redundant?
Thanks for the feedback. Some bikes don't need the little stick on plate because the hanger portion is designed to be used instead. If the shop didn't engage the stand off screw, they either didn't know about it or were lazy with the set up. Unless the derailleur is a clamp on style, you'll never get the best shift quality without the screw resting against the plate or braze on hanger. The screw is in there if you have a braze on derailleur, unless it's partially out, it can be hard to see.
Once again Joey, an excellent vid. My FD-R8000 problem was chain rub when in big chainring and 3 or so smallest (high gear) cogs. During adjustment, when in top trim position, my white lines were just a hair off indicating too tight. But the adjusting barrel was backed out all the way so I couldn't loosen it anymore. So I started over and loosened the pinch bolt and released a bit of cable - really felt quite loose to me, but starting with a looser cable, my white lines were almost there, but not quite, still showing a bit tight. So I started over and this time, along with the looser cable, instead of lining up the outer derailleur plate exactly with the outside of the big ring (with low limit screw), I didn't take it quite that far, so my outer plate was probably lined up with the inside of the big ring instead of the outside. Bingo! Now my white lines needed some adjustment via tightening the barrel adjuster, and once I dialed that in, the shifting and trim is working great! My problem is gone. Not sure if that all made sense, but Thanks Joey!
Do you think this style derailleur is not suitable for friction shifting? I have a 2x11 high range setup on my touring/gravel bike and I want to put this 105 FD on it. I just question if all those adjustments on the derailleur aren't "backwards compatible" with my friction shifters. I'd appreciate some insights on this before I pull the trigger. My other option for a FD is the Microshift Centos 2x11 FD and setup on that is much more traditional. Thanks Joey, always appreciate the videos!
Thank you Joey - the level of detail and accuracy in your video is amazing - by far the best. Quick question, is the Shimano manual wrong on Pg 19 (Top Adj)? It states that the largest chainring and largest sprocket is the adjustment position. In the video, you adjusted on largest chainring and smallest sprocket (which makes more sense to me). Just curious. Please advise.
I have been trying to follow this to adjust my front derailleur. Once I get to hooking up the cable and back the L screw and try to shift to the big ring, it doesn’t shift. Tried few times tightening the cable as much as possible, but it wouldn’t shift. Ten Tried barrel adjustor counter clockwise, still wouldn’t shift to the bigger ring. Any suggestions?
And again… Thank you very much!!! On my brand new bike, which was supposedly assembled in England, the fd 7000 was installed completely wrong so I had to redo it completel (thanks to this video it went smoothly). Yes, it’s quite different from traditional front derailleurs setup and yes, Shimano manual is quite confusing. One more thing I want to point on (which may not be important at all :)). According to shimano manual the tape on the backup plate plate should be away off braze-on but on my bike and the bike in your video it’s glued on the side of the clamp.
Hello, thanks for the video ! I've got one problem still, did it all the same as you did, but in the end when I go to L-trim (small ring biggest cog) It still rub inward and I can't adjust the L screw anymore. Do you think it is because my cable was pinched with too much tension ?
As has been said, this vid is delightfully thorough & easy to follow. Just a note, putting that 'half moon' washer against the flat edge of the front face on the braze on frame clamp is at odds with engineering of the parts.
Great video. Quick question. Which left shifter (small & big) did you find the trim position? Is the large shifter has 2 clicks? Mine seems to have only one click. How do I get to the second click to set up the larger chainring then? I know the small lever one has 2 clicks, which one is the trim, and which one is the final position?
Very helpful. A question on my part; after a slightly rough time of setting up my R7000, the tension screw squeaks loudly when adjusted. Anything I should do about it? Also I've never been able to avoid rubbing when in the large chain-ring crossing over to the two or three largest cogs on the cassette. And while there's a healthy amount of trim on the small chainring setting, there's very little in the setting on the big chainring.
This video is based off the first generation 2x11 road group. The 2x10 groups are pretty much the same as anything previous index shifting wise. I realize I've never done a video on the older index Shimano stuff, so I'll do something soon.
Thanks for the reply! My old Fd was shot & when I started looking for a new 2 speed fd this one looked like a much better design than the standard 5700. So I ordered one assuming it would be interchangeable like all the past shimano road components. However, there are some on the interwebs saying that the 11 speed shimano components will only work with 11 speed because they changed their shifting ratio from 2.3 on older stuff to 2.7 on the 11 speed group. If anything, I would think taking out 0.4 mm of travel/slack would make a FD shift slightly better? Guess I'll find out. Thanks for your time. bike-bikegremlin-com.cdn.ampproject.org/v/s/bike.bikegremlin.com/1297/bicycle-front-derailleur-compatibility/?amp_js_v=a6&_gsa=1&&usqp=mq331AQHKAFQArABIA%3D%3D#aoh=16167651596946&referrer=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com&_tf=From%20%251%24s&share=https%3A%2F%2Fbike.bikegremlin.com%2F1297%2Fbicycle-front-derailleur-compatibility%2F
Hi again! Thank you for your response under the other video. I've gone through shimano instruction a couple of times already. Cable tension is ok (the marks are in line). Looks like the derailleur that I have is very similar to the one in this video, however I need to screw in the high limit screw much more to be able to switch from the small ring to the big ring. It works all right. Still I have to put the plate on, because the shop I've bought the bike in hasn't put it and I can hear the derailleur moving around on bumps. Thank you and keep up the good work!
As a bike Mechanic hahaha, i have to say , this is really one of the best tutorial on how to adjust this 11 sp shimano front derailleur..... I do it also exaclty as you explained ,very good details you showing.... But like you said before, there are so many mistakes that can be made with installing and adjusting/ fine tuning it. This video is top Notch bro !. Normally if it were not a good movie I would be furious in my comments(as a bike mechanic hahaha ;) ) , I hate youtube bike amateur. You my friend are a fucking pro ! thank you , love from the Netherlands !
Hi, I watched your video but I can't fix my front derailleur. No matter what I do, chain will still touch cage of derailleur in lowest possible gear (smallest cog in front and biggest in the back) and I can’t move derailleur with L screw because it is already moved and it can’t go further to the bike. Also, my trimming is not working properly. When I move from first to second position, I see that cable moved but the derailleur hasn't.
I join the others in thanking you. The dealer manual is not clear at all and your video made it clear that with this "new" range the setup process is different from the older range. I wasn't aware of that. In October 19 I went on an offroad tour on my specialized diverge sport (105 FD R7000and 5801 Front Derailleurs) and halfway (about km 400) I managed to suck the chain between the crank and the frame (horrible - happened due to crud and it was night-time) . I managed to bodge the removal of the jammed chain in a roadside repair but in freeing the chain I had to remove the front derailleur. When I screwed the derailleur back on was when I discovered the setup process for the 5801 is different from the older version and I didn't know it (aaaaargh). The remaining part of the tour was spent with just the small chainring. I have been using just the small chainring since November. My January resolution is to watch your vid several times and then fix my front derailleur. Hallelujah! Praise the goddess of Allen keys....
Excellent! Exactly what I've been looking for. I've just bought a new bike with this set-up, and the ONLY problem I've been having is in trying to eliminate the chain rub in the top three gears. Now I have the answers. Thanks for this.
Very helpful. I did this few times. First time failed. Bike service reinstalled for me. Second time was just tightening the cable. After four or five times tries, I am finally able to adjust H/L screws and tignten the cable to near perfect . Trim position is good as well. This video is my essential guide.
Great video, especially as it follows the Shimano manual. I have followed the method and have a good set up. I find there is very little (no) movement between the TOP and TOP-TRIM positions though. Can you suggest what I may have done incorrectly?
Thank you so much for such a detailed instruction for setting up the 105. Most of the videos on RUclips are missing the fundamental explanation of the reasons why each screw need to be adjusted. They tell you how the screws work but not showing the correct adjustment. Glad I have my chain rub fixed. No more embarrassing noise in all gear range now. It was so loud I used to paddle slower in front of others. LoL
Finally someone who does not explain too fast and really takes the time to explain thoroughly -- thank you!!
You're very welcome!!!
Knowledge is one thing but delivering it in a way that doesn't result in more questions is a skill in itself.
@Johnathan Nicholas i really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and Im in the hacking process atm.
Takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
Hands down the best adjustment video I've seen. Love the fact that you've left out the music etc. (and explain the manual here and there) so we can actually also hear what the drivetrain sounds like.
Great video. On my 7000 i'm finding that the cage never gets sufficiently inboard to not rub on the small chainring/big cog combo. Even if i back the L adjustment all the way out. I guess I may have too much tension so even when the shifter is completely released, the cage doesn't drop inboard enough so as not to rub.
At 20:02 you screw out the L screw before going into the trim position and align the lines via the tension screw. As I understand the Shimano manual the L screw should actually remain in the position where the front of the derailleur cage lines up with the big chain ring. Are you sure the L screw is supposed to be screwed out before setting the tension?
As long as the initial securing of the cable to derailleur process is complete, it doesn't really matter when you back the L screw off. The only purpose of tightening the L screw and lining the outer cage to the same plane as the big ring is to position the derailleur in the ideal location to secure the cable. Once the cable is secured, it doesn't matter when you back off the L screw. I do it early because it will have to be backed out anyway to make the small ring adjustments.
Hi Joey, thanks for the video. Your video made the shimano manual clear for me. However, I was still not able to shift from the small chainring to the large chainring, even after following these steps. I have the shimano 105 R7000 groupset. The front derailleur moves, but it's not enough to even move the chain up. Second issue I'm facing is the 105 front shifter (front derailleur) not engaging to shift to larger chainring unless I move the small tab between the shifters. These are 2 separate issues I'm currently having with my 105 shifter and front derailleur. Any ideas? Thanks!
I think Shimano dropped the ball with these front derailleurs. My main problem was coming home after a long hard ride and having my left hand more sore than my legs from all the lever ( derailleur ) resistance. I solved the problem by installing a Microsoft compatible ( 11 speed ) front derailleur. It is a conventional design with the cable anchored on an arm that hangs to the left of the main body ( like most front derailleurs ), thereby increasing leverage and reducing resistance at the shift lever. It shifts just as fast as the Shimano and the shift lever trim positions are more precise than with Shimano. Setup is simple, the two limit screws and cable tension. I was able to get the cable tension tight enough by pulling on it with pliers while tightening the anchor bolt. No need to use the barrel adjuster at this point. I am very happy with this outcome, just wish I thought of it sooner. The icing on the cake was that I sold the used FD8000 on eBay for more than I paid for the new Microshift derailleur (also eBay ).
Great video. Helps a lot!
I wonder: Whats the purpose of the FINAL trim at 16:30? Souldn't it be fine to run small ring and large cog without shifting into this final trim?
Definitely a great video with a great explanation. As you said, the shimano manual may not be so clear with the instructions (at least for beginners), but here you clarified very well it. Of all videos I watched to try to better understand what I was doing wrong, you video was the only one that worked! Thanks for the video!
Glad it was helpful! I appreciate you taking the time to leave feedback!
Learned quite a bit from this video, best one out there! Thanks 👏🏼
You're welcome! Thank you for your kind words!
I didn’t know Woody Harrelson fixed bikes!
Oh, yes he does!!!
17:51 As per Shimano, the stabilization bolt should not contact the backing plate directly in line with where the adhesive tape is located.
I agree, but on some bikes, there are really no other options. If you go to about the 10:30 point in the video, you'll see the plate is all the way against the braze-on hanger. The seat tube on the frame is too round to match the contour of the plate, co this was the only option in this particular situation.
Thanks for doing this video, it’s a really big help. One question; why did you move the derailleur back inward after clamping the cable and before setting the tension with the barrel adjuster? This step doesn’t appear to be in the Shimano tech doc. I assume you’ve added this step from experience. Or is it an essential step that the tech doc missed out? Thanks, Tim.
By initially adjusting the low limit screw out, it sets the derailleur up to clamp the cable in the ideal spot on the cable. It doesn't really matter if you shift the derailleur up, trim the shifter and set the line on the barrel adjustment screw first, or back the limit screw to the approximate location first. It's not really essential, it just seems quicker. Sorry for the confusion. Thanks for the question though!
Thank you so much for this video! I have basically never repaired a bike and even less with this particular part on bikes. Without your video I would never have fixed this. Now I am ready for tomorrow when I will make my longest cycling route so far this season. 💪
Cheers! 🍻
That's great to hear! I'm glad the video was helpful and I very much appreciate you taking the time to leave feedback!
the shimano manual only focuses on the rubbing of the inner plate on both top and low adjustments, i followed the instructions and got slight rubbing on the completely normal largest chainring smallest sprocket combo, so i said f it and eyeballed the outer plate clearance when doing the top adjustment.
This tutorial is gold! Also it sounds like it's made by Woody Harrelson :))
Thanks! 😃
Hi Joey, I've got one where the stabilizing screw won't reach the backing plate on the seat tube. I thought I remembered you running into the same thing and epoxying a piece of something onto the downtube, but I can't find it now. Can you give me any more details on what and how you rigged up something that worked in this situation? So this is a replacement of a 5800 to a R7000. With the 5800, the screw reached the plate, but not with the R7000. Frame is a 2016 Trek Emonda ALR 5. Thanks for any help!
Joey, this is very helpful, but I'm confused after watching this and comparing it to the dealer manual. The dealer manual shows that both the high and the low adjustments should be made with the chain on the largest cog of the cassette. The high adjustment is made on the big chain ring, and the low adjustment is made on the small chain ring. In this video, the top adjustment is made on the smallest cog of the cassette (which makes sense, but doesn't follow the manual). Is it better to set the high adjustment based on the video or the dealer manual? Is there a difference?
To me they basically accomplish the same thing. I would rather have the chain clear the derailleur cage in the big ring/small cog combo. Sometimes it's a compromise of having a slight rub in one extreme or the other. In other words, I'd rather have some slight rub in the big/big combo as I'm rarely in that gear for long.
Either way I don't think it matters much. Just go with what works for you.
Thanks for the question and your feedback, I appreciate it!
At 20:20 it wont shift up. Completed the hight and angle adjustment, tensioned the cable while in the lowest gear, and backed off the L limit screw. When i shift to the higher gear (at 20:20) it won’t even move enough to move the chain. What is going on
Same problem here, could you ever fix it?
@svenzanetti5637 it was caused by the crank being too far inwards. I played around with the fd and managed to get it to work fairly well, but shims would be the appropriate solution to fix the skewed chain line.
@@mikpiotto thanks! I actually managed to get it fairly well too by screwing the H screw pretty far in and starting with the L screw slightly less screwed in than in the video.
So my derailleur was already set-up for me however it does not seem to have that little tape-on thingy. The brace-on mount does seem different though, it has a flat part seemingly designed for that support screw to rest on. Is that possible? Ever seen anything like that? Bike is a Wilier Cento1NDR with this Shimano Ultegra groupset.
Holy crap I wish I had known this video a lot sooner. Thank you you saved me hundreds of dollars on a tune-up and destroyed drivetrain
Thanks for your vid. However when i shift it doesnt go up to big chainring. Did i miss something? I pulled all the slack when tightening the cable.
In your first picture of the tension screw where you said it was too far in, that amount of threads showing was actually fine if that’s where you ended up after setting the tension. Later when you decided to do a complete set up, it had magically been run in quite a bit further, and that was not in a good final position so it needed to be corrected there, but the first instance was fine, and you changed it between shots without saying anything.
The original setup with the adjustment screw out a few turns was where this bike rolled in. I tried to get the lines for the correct tension to line up (with the derailleur in the big ring with the first trim position down), but the tension was still too loose, which is why the adjustment screw was all the way in before I reset everything. It took up a lot of time, so I edited that art out as I thought it was irrelevant. Sorry for the confusion. The important bit starts after that anyway.
This derailleur is so different, it's like it was designed by aliens. One comment already has suggested adjustment screws magically reposition themselves in the video without explanation. I've also noticed that the place the cable emerges from under the fastening plate magically changes. At first it emerges under or to the left of the nub on the fastening plate and/or the fastening plate was not rotated all the way to the right. Later in the video the cable comes out at the right side base of the nub on the fastening plate, and the fastening plate was rotated to the right, all as shown in Shimano's dealer's manual. On my new bike, I was having zero luck getting the tension right on the cable doing it the way the manual and this video wanted. With all due regard to getting the lines to align while in H trimmed position, I think its better to make sure the cable is not slack or too tight in L trimmed, so L trim works properly. For me that meant shifting all the way down, unscrewing the L screw and tensioner screw fully, unfastening the cable and using a cable puller. Then tried the low trim with the cable sticking out and made sure it worked properly (could shift from high to high trimmed to low to low trimmed). Then looped the cable around and pushed the plastic cap on. Lines were in alignment in H trimmed, about a mm beyond in H. Didn't really need to use the tensioner screw, just screwed it in until snug. L screw needed to be screwed in a little, just until left side of the cage almost touched chain.
Complete and very clear! I solved my FD not shifting-up watching this video! Initially read the Shimano Manual, and boy it was hard to visualize and understand what the manual required us to do. This video tutorial was perfect for people with minimal bike repairing skills. Thanks!
You're welcome!
No matter how I set this mech up to get the lowest position to not rub is impossible without the mech actually touching my frame. All the other positions do not catch except 1st and 1st in the lowest position?! Originally my bike didn't come with the mech support pad so I've fitted that and still got the same issue?
Question what is the shifter position when you clapping the cable to the derailleur. The shifter should be in the low gear gear positing of high gear position. Thanks
hello everyone, if i understood correctly with regard to the outer plate the front must be parallel to the teeth of the chainring and the back of the plate slightly inward towards the bike or slightly beyond the chainring? can the rear of the plate be adjusted with the derailleur cable attached? If yes, how? thank you in advance.
Thank you for this! My front derailleur was rubbing even after taking it to the bike shop; your video was the only one I found that explained how to tension the cable correctly and I got it sorted out.
Sweet! Thanks for taking the time to leave feedback!
Thank you for this tutorial, Joey. You have clearly explained the purpose of the step where the outer plate lines up along the big ring prior to tightening up the cable.
You're welcome! Glad it was helpful!
Hi,
The dealer manual says that adjusting should be done twice: 1. The biggest chain ring and the biggest cog. 2nd time on the biggest chain ring and the biggest cog... you don`t do this like this... why?
It this rubbing normal in the position from 2x11 and 1x11 for Shimano 105 R7000 ? I`m fighiting with this FOR DAYS. No I did like you in the video (not adjusting according to manual) and it better I think... but I am confused about rubbing the chain like I wrote above... I`ve heard that it should not at all.... is that true... ? Mb they talked about other models .... :/
Would you please answer... you are my lost hope!! (if you do not understand something because of my english just write it. I will try to explain in better)
Basically, I follow along with Shimano's method of adjustment as described in their PDF manual. I think the biggest confusion comes from the way the high and low limit screws differ from a conventional front derailleur and the way you use the low limit screw to initially position the derailleur to secure the shift cable. This is still the biggest mistake I see from DIYers and shop mechanics alike - not enough tension on the cable on the initial set up.
I have another video that shows another version of the same setup plus all the positions of the shifter as well. It may be helpful in making sense of these front derailleurs. Hopefully, you will find it helpful. ruclips.net/video/T57glZEeJw8/видео.html
Thank you for the great tutorial, I finally was able to set my derailleur cable tension properly !
Glad it helped! Thanks for taking the time to leave feedback!
Great guide. Helped me to fit (and understand) it kinda on TIagra with GRX cranks and 11s chain. Not perfect, but quite fine.
Thanks!
i have rapid fire 3 speed gear changer on the front and it's new ! shifting down the front gears while travel is perfect . up gear changing fron the small to the big gear is different i have to hold the lever down while the gears are changing is that normal
i have a doubt, so the rubbing whit the low ring and when u are using the big ring backwards its normal ? i doesnt make u lose power or damage the chain ?
Thanks so much for this video. I've always done my own setting up but was having trouble getting to grips with this type on my new bike. I would never have known about adjusting tension to line up the lines. It turned out the whole thing was set up wrong even though the previous owner had just had it serviced!!!Well done. 😮
Glad it helped! Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment!
Great video. My high trim is working great. But no movement on low trim.. What would cause these and are there any fixes?
See my other post. That low trim is the last very small amount of movement on the low end, so if the cable is too tight (or loose), or if the L screw is screwed in too far, its not going to happen. What worked for me: making low trim priority #1. Meaning, shift all the way down, unfasten the cable, unscrew the L screw until it's completely retracted, remove the tensioner screw, use a cable puller, make sure there's no slack in the cable between the frame and derailleur (but isn't tight either), fasten the cable (don't worry about looping it around the top yet), make sure the low trim is working the way its supposed to (can shift from high to high trimmed to low to low trimmed). Then do everything else that needs doing (loop the cable around the top, place the cap, screw in the L screw until the cage almost rubs, screw in tensioner screw, adjust the high gears if needed).
Very nice video, very clear! I have just one question. At 18:49 in the video you hook up the cable and say to take all the slack out. Does that mean the shifter needs to be in the lowest position, what Shimano would define as position (v) as shown on page 18 of the dealer manual? I look forward to hearing back from you.
Yes that is correct. A common mistake I see (an even made myself) is to have the shifter in the low or small ring position (w in the Shimano manual), get the cable set, and the result will be difficulty getting it to shift to the big ring due to a lack of cable tension. The "v" position is the low trim position on the shifter and position the shifter must be in to get a successful cable attachment to the derailleur.
Thanks for your question and feedback!
Joey Mesa thanks for a quick response. I put the shifter in the lowest, or (v) position, and it worked out perfectly! Thanks again.
so helpful. great camera angles. thx!
That cable is going to cut through the bottom bracket ! Play at 1.5 speed to save yourself falling asleep ...yawn.
Thanks for your input. I’ll definitely check out some of your videos and see your method for setting this type of derailleur up!
Skip the first 23 minutes if you just need to know how to adjust the trim. All in all, one of the best and thorough vids on the R8000 FD.
Thanks for your feedback!
You got yourself a subscriber. I have a problem with the trim from the small ring first trim position doesn’t do anything. It doesn’t move the derailleur. With the second click the derailleur move the chain directly on the big ring. The trim from the big ring works fine on both ends.
1. Check derailleur is set at correct height and outer cage plate is parallel with chain ring line
2. With shifter completely in lowest position (ie. not taking up cable slack) Check low limit is not too far outboard by by pushing with your thumb on cage to inboard of bike. Correct position is inner cage plate .5-1.0mm inboard of outer link of chain.
3. If first two are correct, you likely have a cable tension issue, assuming your cable and housing is not contaminated affecting the glide or friction of inner cable through outer cable housing
I agree with Mike. Too much tension won't let the der. move that last bit of trim distance to reach the limit screw. If this is the case, then my guess of why it works at the big chainring is because this is where the spring has the most torsion...so it's overriding the high cable tension. However, at the inboard position the spring is close to home and is not torsioned enough to override. Or your low limit screw is too far outboard. One of the two. Simple RoT: Tension for chain moving up - Slack for chain moving down.
Absolutely great video. Nicely presented slow and very easy to follow. I have set my 105#R7000 similar but not to the fines as you. What a great job . Thank you so much Gerald south Wales UK
You're very welcome! Thanks for your kind words, and taking the time to comment!
Thank you for this helpful video. I just bought a new bike and wondered why the trim in the large ring is not doing anything . Would that be too much cable tension or not enough ?
Sounds like too much cable tension, but it also depends on the relation of the derailleur to the chain in various gears.
Thanks for helping me again, Joey!
Great video! 👍Thank you for saving me so much trouble. I have no doubt that the other videos from this channel are excellent. Subscribed.
You're very welcome! Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment, and I appreciate you subscribing!
Thank you so much! I've been endlessly going into shops for adjustments on my 105 FD-R7000 and getting really frustrated with it going out of adjustment very quickly. I think they just were doing basic adjustments and never stepped it back to the beginning as needed. This video helped a ton.
You're very welcome! Thanks for taking the time to leave feedback!
Great video!! What I noticed with my FD and it appears to happen here. The high limit screw is screwed in so much that the low limit screw doesnt touch anymore in the small chainring. I don't have any issues shifting but it seems like the only thing the l limit is good for is getting the initial cable tension correct
I wonder why Shimano changed the front derailleurs so much over the previous generation ones.
It certainly looks as random and ugly as a Michael Bay Transformer.
This design, while much different to set up, works much better (when set up correctly) over any previous front derailleur. It basically has the power of an electronic derailleur in a mechanical design, plus less chain drops off the chainrings. I will say that getting inset up right is a proven problem for new and old mechanics...
Brilliant. I've watched so many vids claiming to show how to set up the trim and none of them have been right. Showing how to start from scratch was a bonus although I'm now scratching my head as to why my Giant Defy came with Ultegra but no back plate or stand off screw. Lazy bike store or do Giant think they're redundant?
Thanks for the feedback. Some bikes don't need the little stick on plate because the hanger portion is designed to be used instead. If the shop didn't engage the stand off screw, they either didn't know about it or were lazy with the set up. Unless the derailleur is a clamp on style, you'll never get the best shift quality without the screw resting against the plate or braze on hanger. The screw is in there if you have a braze on derailleur, unless it's partially out, it can be hard to see.
Totally agree
Cheers worked brilliantly
Once again Joey, an excellent vid. My FD-R8000 problem was chain rub when in big chainring and 3 or so smallest (high gear) cogs. During adjustment, when in top trim position, my white lines were just a hair off indicating too tight. But the adjusting barrel was backed out all the way so I couldn't loosen it anymore. So I started over and loosened the pinch bolt and released a bit of cable - really felt quite loose to me, but starting with a looser cable, my white lines were almost there, but not quite, still showing a bit tight. So I started over and this time, along with the looser cable, instead of lining up the outer derailleur plate exactly with the outside of the big ring (with low limit screw), I didn't take it quite that far, so my outer plate was probably lined up with the inside of the big ring instead of the outside. Bingo! Now my white lines needed some adjustment via tightening the barrel adjuster, and once I dialed that in, the shifting and trim is working great! My problem is gone. Not sure if that all made sense, but Thanks Joey!
Yes, it makes total sense. I generally do the same thing, but it does vary some with different cable routing setups. Thanks for your feedback!
@@JoeyMesa Awesome Joey - I knew if anyone would understand my dissertation, you would! Thanks man.
Wow. You nailed this when so many other have failed. I finally know this component now.
Thank you very much for this tutorial, could have saved a couple of hours and unpleasant rides if I saw it earlier.
You're welcome!
Big mistake following this- if I try shifting to the big front ring my chain is pushed outside the big ring and falls off.
Maybe rewatch and study the Shimano dealer PDF setup guide? Sounds like maybe your high limit is set wrong...
Brilliant demo buddy
Do you think this style derailleur is not suitable for friction shifting? I have a 2x11 high range setup on my touring/gravel bike and I want to put this 105 FD on it. I just question if all those adjustments on the derailleur aren't "backwards compatible" with my friction shifters. I'd appreciate some insights on this before I pull the trigger. My other option for a FD is the Microshift Centos 2x11 FD and setup on that is much more traditional. Thanks Joey, always appreciate the videos!
Sure, there's no problem running this derailleur with a friction shifter.
@@JoeyMesa thanks Joey!
Thank you Joey - the level of detail and accuracy in your video is amazing - by far the best. Quick question, is the Shimano manual wrong on Pg 19 (Top Adj)? It states that the largest chainring and largest sprocket is the adjustment position. In the video, you adjusted on largest chainring and smallest sprocket (which makes more sense to me). Just curious. Please advise.
I have been trying to follow this to adjust my front derailleur. Once I get to hooking up the cable and back the L screw and try to shift to the big ring, it doesn’t shift. Tried few times tightening the cable as much as possible, but it wouldn’t shift. Ten Tried barrel adjustor counter clockwise, still wouldn’t shift to the bigger ring. Any suggestions?
Great great job. Thanks
I hate this derailleur.
Excellent pictures and explanation - many thanks.
You're very welcome! Thanks for taking the time to share your feedback!
This is golden!👌
And again… Thank you very much!!!
On my brand new bike, which was supposedly assembled in England, the fd 7000 was installed completely wrong so I had to redo it completel (thanks to this video it went smoothly). Yes, it’s quite different from traditional front derailleurs setup and yes, Shimano manual is quite confusing.
One more thing I want to point on (which may not be important at all :)). According to shimano manual the tape on the backup plate plate should be away off braze-on but on my bike and the bike in your video it’s glued on the side of the clamp.
Hello, thanks for the video ! I've got one problem still, did it all the same as you did, but in the end when I go to L-trim (small ring biggest cog) It still rub inward and I can't adjust the L screw anymore. Do you think it is because my cable was pinched with too much tension ?
one question sir..how about position of barrel adjuster..accidentaly turn it untill disloged..thanks
As has been said, this vid is delightfully thorough & easy to follow.
Just a note, putting that 'half moon' washer against the flat edge of the front face on the braze on frame clamp is at odds with engineering of the parts.
Great video. Quick question. Which left shifter (small & big) did you find the trim position? Is the large shifter has 2 clicks? Mine seems to have only one click. How do I get to the second click to set up the larger chainring then? I know the small lever one has 2 clicks, which one is the trim, and which one is the final position?
Shimano link is dead.
Excellent video and explanation - thank you!
You are welcome! Thanks for leaving a comment!
Very helpful. A question on my part; after a slightly rough time of setting up my R7000, the tension screw squeaks loudly when adjusted. Anything I should do about it? Also I've never been able to avoid rubbing when in the large chain-ring crossing over to the two or three largest cogs on the cassette. And while there's a healthy amount of trim on the small chainring setting, there's very little in the setting on the big chainring.
Thanks for the great tutorial! I was able to dial my front derailleur in. It is still not perfect, but so much better than it was before!!
You're welcome! Thanks for taking the time to leave feedback!
I've never been so bored
Literally the best how to video I have seen on RUclips. Thank you so much for taking the extra time visually and verbally.
22:15 this step is not in the manual, but following the manual (position 3 and big cog) gives me chain falling off to the crank side.
Will these work with a Shimano 2x10 road set up? Or are they 11 speed specific? Thanks!
This video is based off the first generation 2x11 road group. The 2x10 groups are pretty much the same as anything previous index shifting wise. I realize I've never done a video on the older index Shimano stuff, so I'll do something soon.
Thanks for the reply!
My old Fd was shot & when I started looking for a new 2 speed fd this one looked like a much better design than the standard 5700. So I ordered one assuming it would be interchangeable like all the past shimano road components. However, there are some on the interwebs saying that the 11 speed shimano components will only work with 11 speed because they changed their shifting ratio from 2.3 on older stuff to 2.7 on the 11 speed group. If anything, I would think taking out
0.4 mm of travel/slack would make a FD shift slightly better? Guess I'll find out.
Thanks for your time.
bike-bikegremlin-com.cdn.ampproject.org/v/s/bike.bikegremlin.com/1297/bicycle-front-derailleur-compatibility/?amp_js_v=a6&_gsa=1&&usqp=mq331AQHKAFQArABIA%3D%3D#aoh=16167651596946&referrer=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com&_tf=From%20%251%24s&share=https%3A%2F%2Fbike.bikegremlin.com%2F1297%2Fbicycle-front-derailleur-compatibility%2F
Awesome video. My gears just weren't right. Trim positions didn't work. Followed video and so much better now. Thanks 😊
Great to hear! Thanks for taking the time to leave feedback!
Thanks !!
What is the name of that tiny little silver which you attach to your frame?
It's the support or backing plate amzn.to/3xNYWGF
Clear and thorough. The perfect complement to the dealer's manual. Thank you !
You're welcome and I appreciate the feedback! Thanks for watching!!
Do I need to install a barrel adjuster for my fd r7000 or no need
No, it's built into the derailleur
Min 15, thanks bro! I was missing that step, I wasted over an hour on this derailleur xd
Glad I could helpI
I was missing that too. Always had the slack on cable. Thanks for great video tutorial.
Can you please explain what you mean by position 3 / 4. Are those positions on the front shifter?
The line thing doesn't make sense to me... What does it even do?
The line is the starting point for success.
I changed chainrings and used your tips to make adjustments after. Thanks, what a difference on my R7000.
Great to hear! Thanks for taking the time to leave feedback!
This video helped me a lot. Thanks man!
You're welcome!
Thank you. Very detail.
You are welcome!
Had some issues with my 2022 CAAD 13 front derailleur. Your tutorial did the trick. Have nice crisp shifting now. "Way ta go Joe"!
Great, and thanks for taking the time to comment!
Hi again!
Thank you for your response under the other video. I've gone through shimano instruction a couple of times already. Cable tension is ok (the marks are in line). Looks like the derailleur that I have is very similar to the one in this video, however I need to screw in the high limit screw much more to be able to switch from the small ring to the big ring. It works all right. Still I have to put the plate on, because the shop I've bought the bike in hasn't put it and I can hear the derailleur moving around on bumps.
Thank you and keep up the good work!
You're welcome! Always appreciate the feedback!
As a bike Mechanic hahaha, i have to say , this is really one of the best tutorial on how to adjust this 11 sp shimano front derailleur..... I do it also exaclty as you explained ,very good details you showing.... But like you said before, there are so many mistakes that can be made with installing and adjusting/ fine tuning it. This video is top Notch bro !. Normally if it were not a good movie I would be furious in my comments(as a bike mechanic hahaha ;) ) , I hate youtube bike amateur. You my friend are a fucking pro ! thank you , love from the Netherlands !
Thank you so much for your feedback and kind words! I really appreciate you taking the time to comment!!!
I've always stayed away from adjusting my FD. After watching your video, I finally fixed and understand how FD works.😅😂 Thank you so much!!
You're welcome!
Hi, I watched your video but I can't fix my front derailleur. No matter what I do, chain will still touch cage of derailleur in lowest possible gear (smallest cog in front and biggest in the back) and I can’t move derailleur with L screw because it is already moved and it can’t go further to the bike. Also, my trimming is not working properly. When I move from first to second position, I see that cable moved but the derailleur hasn't.
You might check the high limit screw. If it's in too far it will affect the low limit setting.
thank god for this video
You’re welcome!
I join the others in thanking you. The dealer manual is not clear at all and your video made it clear that with this "new" range the setup process is different from the older range. I wasn't aware of that. In October 19 I went on an offroad tour on my specialized diverge sport (105 FD R7000and 5801 Front Derailleurs) and halfway (about km 400) I managed to suck the chain between the crank and the frame (horrible - happened due to crud and it was night-time) . I managed to bodge the removal of the jammed chain in a roadside repair but in freeing the chain I had to remove the front derailleur. When I screwed the derailleur back on was when I discovered the setup process for the 5801 is different from the older version and I didn't know it (aaaaargh). The remaining part of the tour was spent with just the small chainring. I have been using just the small chainring since November. My January resolution is to watch your vid several times and then fix my front derailleur. Hallelujah! Praise the goddess of Allen keys....
Sweet! Thanks for taking the time to leave feedback and good luck getting that derailleur dialed in! You got this!!!
Excellent! Exactly what I've been looking for. I've just bought a new bike with this set-up, and the ONLY problem I've been having is in trying to eliminate the chain rub in the top three gears. Now I have the answers. Thanks for this.
You're welcome!
Very helpful. I did this few times. First time failed. Bike service reinstalled for me. Second time was just tightening the cable. After four or five times tries, I am finally able to adjust H/L screws and tignten the cable to near perfect . Trim position is good as well. This video is my essential guide.
Awesome! Thanks for taking the time to leave feedback!
Absolutely awesome video! Thank you for taking the time to make and share such valuable knowledge. It was very clear and helpful.
Thank you!
I appreciate you taking the time to leave a comment!
Would the FD R7000 work with a White Crankset with 40 and 24 tooth chain wheels?
Great instruction video.
It should, although you might check with White and see what their recommendations are.
Great video, especially as it follows the Shimano manual. I have followed the method and have a good set up. I find there is very little (no) movement between the TOP and TOP-TRIM positions though. Can you suggest what I may have done incorrectly?
The top trim doesn't move much, but it sounds like the cable tension may be slightly too tight or the high limit screw is a hair too far in.
Thank you so much for such a detailed instruction for setting up the 105.
Most of the videos on RUclips are missing the fundamental explanation of the reasons why each screw need to be adjusted. They tell you how the screws work but not showing the correct adjustment.
Glad I have my chain rub fixed. No more embarrassing noise in all gear range now. It was so loud I used to paddle slower in front of others.
LoL
Awesome! I'm glad you got your derailleur issues figured out, and I appreciate you taking the time to leave feedback!