I just developed my first roll, which also was my first positive film! Completely blown away, even though I messed up more than half of the shots. Really like your videos, cheers from Sweden
Much appreciated! Feels like it’s a fairly simple guide but as you can see in the 1/3rd stop examples, it can make a world of difference. When in doubt, bracket with tonality in mind. Either highlight or shadow priority is what I tend to look at, and if I only have one shot left on a roll…. I’m definitely going to use my experience from bracketing these scenes, to let me know how far I can push it.
Has anything extra been done to the picture "in the studio room" at 3:52? Filters due to bulb/florecent lights etc ? Lovely work and great videos. You balance perfectly with just the right amount of being professional and a nice guy at the same time!
This means a lot to me! Gives me some motivation for more videos soon. With that said, yes… I’m using an 80a filter to correct for tungsten lights. There were several powerful tungsten lights pointed at the ceiling to illuminate things for a video that was happening and I took my stills with the proper filtration. It was a 55mm 1.2 lens, wide open at 1/15th or 1/30th if memory serves me. Shot at both shutter speeds, some turned out and some didn’t.
Great video, and I am excited to look further into your channel. I wonder how you meter. You set the meter to ISO 80 and are you metering always for the mid tones? I understand that each scene requires a separate decision as far as exposure goes, favoring either shadow detail or color saturation. I'm just wondering specifically how you metered in this very well executed video. Thanks! E100 is all I shoot, freezer is full of it =)
Many thanks! I always meter at iso 80, with a preference towards shadow detail. I’ll often let the highlights go fairly hot, but tend to keep it all within reason. When in doubt, bracket exposures +1 stop over your base iso of 80.
Great video! Would love to see you do this with Provia. This was highly educational. I love slide film myself. I rarely scan it as projecting it is so much more satisfying.
I am pleasantly surprised to learn that some photographers still use filters for particular emulsions the correct way. Kudos to you. The 812 is just about perfect but for a little too much ' red ' hue that it exhibits. I am quite fond of 81C myself, and I even use it on digital. Sadly, the pric eof Ektachrome is all but prohibitive for most of us in the UK these days, about £28.00 or just short of $34.00 for a roll of 135. That is before processing costs are added in. I remember buying Ektachrome 100 for under £5.00 a roll in my youth. Great photography by the way.
Thanks for the video, but i have a question. I understand you’re exposing them differently, but are you processing them differently too or just using basic processing, not accounting ting for the different exposures? I expect the latter??
@@dalemellor5047 I’m sticking with standard processing. 1/3rd of a stop isn’t enough to require different processing, and ektachrome loves a little extra light
The exposure curve actually reminds me of polaroid film (just not as tight as that stuff is.) When underexposing you get richer colors but shadows fall off much faster, over exposure brings shadow detail but at the cost of highlights going hot and colors starting to get lighter. Since I've only recently finished shooting my second roll of slide film, it's something to keep in mind when I shoot my next roll.
Hey Dave, thanks for this video! I have a love/hate relationship with E100 these days. One question: you mention your effective ISO, but where do you meter for? Is it incident metering, or do you spot meter your midtones or highlights?
I’m just using a cell phone app and just making sure to focus on the tonality I wish to capture. Or the built in meter in my canon eos 620 + exposure compensation
Good to see someone shooting transparency film who knows what they are talking about. So many videos and blog posts with no idea what shooting Ektachrome is like. I shot magazine covers and editorials for 20 years on Kodak EPP.....you had to get everything dead on in the camera. The only option after was to clip test, but that meant you really could only push or pull by 2/3rd max. As you've proved yourself, each lighting situation requires specific tweaking. Exposing for the mids will usually get you there but you often have to give up on either shadow detail or highlight detail, a concept never considered in the digital age. Good work, fella.
Usually 1/3 of a stop. On a camera that has a light meter, the light meter in the camera will factor the filter right away when your meter for the scene. But I shoot with a camera with no light meter like sunny 16, I don’t worry about factoring the 1/3 of the stop that much as I just either shoot at box speed at 1/125s or if there is to much light reflecting like being on the beach or on the snow, I shoot at 1/250s to underexposed for the scene.
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I just developed my first roll, which also was my first positive film! Completely blown away, even though I messed up more than half of the shots. Really like your videos, cheers from Sweden
this was great! those 4x5 images are the skater are absolutely amazing man.
How did you shoot the photo at 3:51? In a studio. Asa 100. no flash. Did you use a long exposure time?
1/15th shutter with an f1.2 lens wide open
I think I prefer 1/3 under exposed. Great video!
Really fantastic shots and I really appreciate you doing those exposure tests. Thanks man.
🙏🏼
Man those are beautiful shots!
And thanks for the exposure tips!
Thanks! Very fun film
Some amazing photography. Thank you for the exposure guide!
Much appreciated! Feels like it’s a fairly simple guide but as you can see in the 1/3rd stop examples, it can make a world of difference. When in doubt, bracket with tonality in mind. Either highlight or shadow priority is what I tend to look at, and if I only have one shot left on a roll…. I’m definitely going to use my experience from bracketing these scenes, to let me know how far I can push it.
Has anything extra been done to the picture "in the studio room" at 3:52? Filters due to bulb/florecent lights etc ?
Lovely work and great videos. You balance perfectly with just the right amount of being professional and a nice guy at the same time!
This means a lot to me! Gives me some motivation for more videos soon.
With that said, yes… I’m using an 80a filter to correct for tungsten lights. There were several powerful tungsten lights pointed at the ceiling to illuminate things for a video that was happening and I took my stills with the proper filtration. It was a 55mm 1.2 lens, wide open at 1/15th or 1/30th if memory serves me. Shot at both shutter speeds, some turned out and some didn’t.
@@DavesFilmLab Thanks!!!
Great video, and I am excited to look further into your channel. I wonder how you meter. You set the meter to ISO 80 and are you metering always for the mid tones? I understand that each scene requires a separate decision as far as exposure goes, favoring either shadow detail or color saturation. I'm just wondering specifically how you metered in this very well executed video. Thanks! E100 is all I shoot, freezer is full of it =)
Many thanks! I always meter at iso 80, with a preference towards shadow detail. I’ll often let the highlights go fairly hot, but tend to keep it all within reason. When in doubt, bracket exposures +1 stop over your base iso of 80.
Great video! Would love to see you do this with Provia. This was highly educational.
I love slide film myself. I rarely scan it as projecting it is so much more satisfying.
Amazing! The large format work is so good! Love the skateboarding
Many thanks! Nearing a point of finishing my action sports book, lots of ektarchrome in the book
@@DavesFilmLab I would be interested in a copy for sure when it comes out
I am pleasantly surprised to learn that some photographers still use filters for particular emulsions the correct way. Kudos to you. The 812 is just about perfect but for a little too much ' red ' hue that it exhibits. I am quite fond of 81C myself, and I even use it on digital. Sadly, the pric eof Ektachrome is all but prohibitive for most of us in the UK these days, about £28.00 or just short of $34.00 for a roll of 135. That is before processing costs are added in. I remember buying Ektachrome 100 for under £5.00 a roll in my youth. Great photography by the way.
Appreciate the comment. It is indeed, an expensive film
Thanks for the video, but i have a question. I understand you’re exposing them differently, but are you processing them differently too or just using basic processing, not accounting ting for the different exposures? I expect the latter??
@@dalemellor5047 I’m sticking with standard processing. 1/3rd of a stop isn’t enough to require different processing, and ektachrome loves a little extra light
The exposure curve actually reminds me of polaroid film (just not as tight as that stuff is.)
When underexposing you get richer colors but shadows fall off much faster, over exposure brings shadow detail but at the cost of highlights going hot and colors starting to get lighter. Since I've only recently finished shooting my second roll of slide film, it's something to keep in mind when I shoot my next roll.
This my first video of yours I'm watching, I'd like to see your development process for these, I'll have to surf your channel...
Back in the day, I use to push Ektachrome 400 to 800 or 1600. I might over expose by 1/3 stop.
Hey Dave, thanks for this video! I have a love/hate relationship with E100 these days. One question: you mention your effective ISO, but where do you meter for? Is it incident metering, or do you spot meter your midtones or highlights?
I’m just using a cell phone app and just making sure to focus on the tonality I wish to capture. Or the built in meter in my canon eos 620 + exposure compensation
The action sports photos are all really good!
Thanks! Working on a book containing all my best action shots. Truly one of my favorite subjects to photograph
Great video... really helpful ! Thank you! )))
Good to see someone shooting transparency film who knows what they are talking about. So many videos and blog posts with no idea what shooting Ektachrome is like. I shot magazine covers and editorials for 20 years on Kodak EPP.....you had to get everything dead on in the camera. The only option after was to clip test, but that meant you really could only push or pull by 2/3rd max.
As you've proved yourself, each lighting situation requires specific tweaking. Exposing for the mids will usually get you there but you often have to give up on either shadow detail or highlight detail, a concept never considered in the digital age. Good work, fella.
Thanks! This was a joy to read. Think many get frustrated by transparency film, but personally… it’s the most satisfying
What did you scan these with?
Where do you get the mounting slides from?
@@aubreeweaver1059 freestyle photo
how much exposure compensation is needed with the 812 filter?
Usually 1/3 of a stop. On a camera that has a light meter, the light meter in the camera will factor the filter right away when your meter for the scene. But I shoot with a camera with no light meter like sunny 16, I don’t worry about factoring the 1/3 of the stop that much as I just either shoot at box speed at 1/125s or if there is to much light reflecting like being on the beach or on the snow, I shoot at 1/250s to underexposed for the scene.