keep up the good work ur one of the handful of guys on here that really know there stuff i only know because i have been in this industry since the mid 70's
Yea but they don't give a f#ck about quality nowadays on 97% of vechiles! The only thing they give a d@mn about is making lot's 💰🤑💰! and do it as cheap as possible using crappy AF parts!!! New vechiles SUCK!!!
I enjoyed the video but a question; Why didn't you remove the top before going this far? If you had you could have also made sure there was no rust in the area where the rag top and metal meet. This would have been the time to have that done as well for a complete metal prep with the epoxy? I realize you have other videos on this car, and this is the first video I have watched on your channel. Perhaps you have addressed this area of concern on an earlier video? Thanks Phillip Hall
Im working with a 1972 ford truck its body is fairly straight but has a lot of surface and pitting. I know ill have to strip most of it to bare metal but im not sure about the pitting areas if its possible to get them to shiny? I have a 'rust killer epoxy primer' on the way but heard it cant be paired with phosphoric acid to neutralize. What would you do with heavier pitted stuff? Frame rails etc?
I'd recommend when stripping a car like that to bare metal, you use a metal conditioner. we use deoxitine 624, you scrub it on and wash off with hot water and blow dry it off, it will go a rainbow colour. once it's dry you don't need to prepsol or anything just mask up and epoxy over it. I also wouldn't recommend prepsol over bare metal I've had it flake and fry my primer before especially polyester primer if you had to clean the metal and didn't want to use deoxitine we use acetone or meths.
Do u apply the first coat of epoxy then wait 10 minutes and apply the second coat then wait 30 minutes and then apply the 2k primer over the epoxy primer????......i never used epoxy primer before lol😂
If you have big hits do you do the metal work first? Or do you prime and then do the body work , thats what doesn’t makes sense to me because to take out the big hits you need to go to bare metal again in order to pull the hits out
Another great video mate ..can you show me how to walk the side off a car ..I’m to frightened aways wanted to shoot a full side but it’s daunting , thanks kandy man
Awesome man! Thank you for your time. Exactly what I was looking for. Taking your time to make these videos and show the right way to do it helps so many people. Thanks again.
Cannot wait to find out the steps for going over epoxy. Kandyman what are your thoughts about etch primer? I think I remember you using it over aluminum but what about steel?
@@kandyman5315 I’m doing restorations , but I feel like is not worth the pay people want to pay , I’ll say my work is not excellent but is really good . For a good job how much would be a good price to charge for a restoration or a change of color
some of us dont agree ... epoxy is a must on bare metal for proper adhesion for every step after and to seal metal... chemically stripping is a entire different video... if you use a chemical to strip it must be properly neutralized or you can have problems later in the paint job... the safest way to strip a car is good old DA and 80 grit... chemical you have to neutralize ... sandblasting can warp panels and you will never... ever ...get all the sand out... dipping you can never safely apply primer to all areas stripped to stop rust prevention... all stripping is flawed... but to people building cars correctly ...epoxy is a must... people like Kandy man are doing every thing right!
@@thomasstott527 Epoxy is only a must on a sandblasted car. I never sandblast cars because as you said it warps and it also stretches panels. Almost all vehicles have a clear electroplated coating on the metal from the factory. Only the blasting method of stripping paint removes that coating. Again,only blasted cars need to be epoxyed.
Авто/Мото
BADASS!!
👊👊
Rust never sleeps...
Awesome rust on steel is like cancer in humans must be eradicated thanks for sharing 😊😊
If I ever needed a car painted, it would have to be this guy. You know it’ll be done right.
And it wont be cheap
But worth the bucks
Coming along already! Do you only use wax and grease remover on the bare metal or do you also use an alcohol based cleaner?
@@outdoor_lifestyle_0149 both
You are progressing well on the Cutlass Kandy Man the owner should be very happy with all the work you have put into it👏🙏👍John UK
keep up the good work ur one of the handful of guys on here that really know there stuff i only know because i have been in this industry since the mid 70's
If US car makers paid half as much attention to this kind of detail work, they would have been the number 1 car makers in the world by now.
Yea but they don't give a f#ck about quality nowadays on 97% of vechiles! The only thing they give a d@mn about is making lot's 💰🤑💰! and do it as cheap as possible using crappy AF parts!!! New vechiles SUCK!!!
And each car would be $15k more.
My 2016 f350 is rusting like it's 25 years old 😂😂
I enjoyed the video but a question; Why didn't you remove the top before going this far? If you had you could have also made sure there was no rust in the area where the rag top and metal meet. This would have been the time to have that done as well for a complete metal prep with the epoxy?
I realize you have other videos on this car, and this is the first video I have watched on your channel. Perhaps you have addressed this area of concern on an earlier video? Thanks
Phillip Hall
Yes has been addressed somethings get missed on camera thanks for watching
Im working with a 1972 ford truck its body is fairly straight but has a lot of surface and pitting. I know ill have to strip most of it to bare metal but im not sure about the pitting areas if its possible to get them to shiny? I have a 'rust killer epoxy primer' on the way but heard it cant be paired with phosphoric acid to neutralize.
What would you do with heavier pitted stuff? Frame rails etc?
Sand blasting is a method that works great. Just be. Sure, not to warp the metal
I'd recommend when stripping a car like that to bare metal, you use a metal conditioner. we use deoxitine 624, you scrub it on and wash off with hot water and blow dry it off, it will go a rainbow colour. once it's dry you don't need to prepsol or anything just mask up and epoxy over it. I also wouldn't recommend prepsol over bare metal I've had it flake and fry my primer before especially polyester primer if you had to clean the metal and didn't want to use deoxitine we use acetone or meths.
Thanks for the support
@@kandyman5315 no problem, just my 2cents, you guys doing a great job. keep it up 😀
We did wipe with alcohol prep after prepsol just forgot to mention
I would have Osphoed it then epoxy.
Do u apply the first coat of epoxy then wait 10 minutes and apply the second coat then wait 30 minutes and then apply the 2k primer over the epoxy primer????......i never used epoxy primer before lol😂
2 coats with 15 min flase
The body panels look fairly straight! I hope my 71 will be like that 😊JR
It’s not a body shop!
It’s more like a food production facility:)
Lol
If you have big hits do you do the metal work first? Or do you prime and then do the body work , thats what doesn’t makes sense to me because to take out the big hits you need to go to bare metal again in order to pull the hits out
Appreciate it 👊
Another great video mate ..can you show me how to walk the side off a car ..I’m to frightened aways wanted to shoot a full side but it’s daunting , thanks kandy man
👍
180grit sanded and then epoxyd is that correct
👍
Awesome can’t wait to do a project like this one day
Nice job....car's going to look great
Did I miss it, how did you strip the paint off, mechanically or chemically? What would you recommend for a DIY?
Mechanical is what we did and my choice for DIY
@@kandyman5315 Thanks so much. Do you use silicon carbide stripping discs or good old sandpaper?
@legalsan3913 sandpaper
Do you have a way to clean and seal the backside of the welds? I would image they will eventually rust back out if not. Thanks
👍
Check out latest video
Awesome man! Thank you for your time. Exactly what I was looking for. Taking your time to make these videos and show the right way to do it helps so many people. Thanks again.
That’s the best epoxy on the market I always worry about flash rusting and yes never touch bare metal with bare hands
DP is some really good shit.
Do you put high build primer over epoxy ?
Yes 👍
Need more update on this cutlass buddy! Great video
Coming soon 👍
Great job so far
Link to that epoxy primer?
No link, sorry check with your local ppg paint store
I see your using the 3m Versaflow respirator those are nice no extra hoses laying on the ground.
Is that an advantage over dp 40?
Just different color same primer
@@5H4V3D89 thank you.
Prepsol doesn't remove non solvents such as sweat. Metho/water does. You should have metho water then prepsol in case there was body oils on it.
👍
Can you spray epoxy and high build primer right after ?
With ppg yes let fully flash about 40 min and hit it
What is your take on the universal primer sealer surfacer DTM type
Depends on the brand but they work fine
I have the same car
Thank youpal.
is the fuji spray he mentioned airless/turbine?
No gravity feed spray gun mpv8
I thought 80 was the standard for epoxy
I like 180
I loved the video.
Cannot wait to find out the steps for going over epoxy. Kandyman what are your thoughts about etch primer? I think I remember you using it over aluminum but what about steel?
Etch primer is a good product but epoxy is better
Etch is old school and not 2k.. etch will not hold out rust alone like epoxy
What’s a good brand epoxy primer
Do you need to scratch the primer Before body filler
Ppg does have a window where you don't have to. But I always do
@@kandyman5315 I’m doing restorations , but I feel like is not worth the pay people want to pay , I’ll say my work is not excellent but is really good . For a good job how much would be a good price to charge for a restoration or a change of color
Good job
What pad do you use to get the metal that smooth
Da pad
What stripping process did yall use?
From da to stripping wheels finish in 180grit
Dude how big is that spray booth .
30x30
@@kandyman5315 nice I never painted in a booth looks great 👍
Why 180 grit?
Good scratch
Epoxy is optional on a vehicle stripped by machine or chemically but not a must.
some of us dont agree ... epoxy is a must on bare metal for proper adhesion for every step after and to seal metal... chemically stripping is a entire different video... if you use a chemical to strip it must be properly neutralized or you can have problems later in the paint job... the safest way to strip a car is good old DA and 80 grit... chemical you have to neutralize ... sandblasting can warp panels and you will never... ever ...get all the sand out... dipping you can never safely apply primer to all areas stripped to stop rust prevention... all stripping is flawed... but to people building cars correctly ...epoxy is a must... people like Kandy man are doing every thing right!
@@thomasstott527 Epoxy is only a must on a sandblasted car. I never sandblast cars because as you said it warps and it also stretches panels. Almost all vehicles have a clear electroplated coating on the metal from the factory. Only the blasting method of stripping paint removes that coating.
Again,only blasted cars need to be epoxyed.
@@jimk7882 well that is your opinion.. not a wise one.. but you have the right to have one..
@@thomasstott527 Wise and proven. Hopefully someone else will read my dialogue and save on materials they don't 'need.'
@Jim K just curious... who as proven this... as every major paint company... primer company and most filler companies say otherwise...