So awesome that you're finally doing tutorials on RUclips! I've bought and painted several TTW buildings over the past few years. Absolutely amazing detail and quality! Keep up the great work guys!
Brilliant tutorial. Complements the first one so well. I cannot wait to try out the techniques. I wonder what the next one will be? Keep up the amazing work, guys!
@@TabletopWorld That is a fantastic idea. A series of videos showing the complete process for the entire building. Please do that with some contrasting buildings from your range. Well done!!
I have a question about scale. I got my order today in the mail and was a little uncertain about the size. Don't get me wrong, it goes without saying they are absolutely beautifully made. I was wondering though if maybe it's because I messed up and ordered something in a smaller scale, like maybe there are multiple size options? When I checked, it seems like some of the buildings are 32mm while most of what I got is 28mm. Some of the doors for example, seem too short for my 28mm models though, or even the spaces beside the doors are too small for their standard 28mm bases. Is this a "true" 28mm scale. I have a mausoleum that feels intuitively sized perfectly, but a cottage that seems very small. The smiths workshop too seems small, like my 28mm models would have to duck to get into the outdoor workshop. Any help or explanation would be appreciated. I am very willing to believe this is just the scale you guys use and I had the wrong expectations or ordered incorrectly or something, but I'm not sure. Thanks!
Hello, thank you for your interest in our models! :) Yes, the models from the "Midgard" range are in true 28mm scale while those from the Altburg range are in 32mm scale, or as some call it Heroic scale. Many miniatures advertised today as 28mm are actually made in heroic scale. Early Warhammer miniatures for example are in true 28mm scale while the later ones tend to be more in 32mm scale. That is the main reason why your miniatures are bit higher then some doors on our 28mm models (+ the fact that they are standing on a base). Having said that, small and short doors were very common in medieval times (to prevent heat loss). It was not unusual to duck the head when you were entering medieval houses.
Question, how would you paint the plaster inside the house? Outside there's a lot of timber separating each plaster part, but inside each plaster part is much bigger, so not sure if these steps would work?
Hello Vicente, the technique is basically the same, paint should be brighter in the middle of the plaster areas and darker toward the edges (toward floor, corners, windows , doors, etc.). And you probably wouldn't want too much green, unless you want your house to have an abandoned, unhealthy look. :)
What's the point of making the wood black? Old european buildings didn't use blackened wood for their constructions. It does fit a more grim mood/aesthetic but maybe keeping it SLIGHTLY dark brown would be better. Why bother painting it brown, dry brushing it, and then just getting rid of the brown tone all together. I see what you were going for, to make the wood look extremely aged and darkened, but you overdid it so it's only black with dry brushing details showing through, no brown left. Instead of straight up slightly diluted black (black is the strongest pigment when it comes to paints) maybe you should have used a dark brown wash.
Thank you for your feedback Spork! The blackened wood on half timbered houses is a product of natural ageing, though the effect is sometimes recreated with a lick of black paint. During the 15th and 16th centuries, the decorative contrast between the dark timber and the lighter filling was at its highest. There is even a term "black and white village" which refers to several old medieval villages in England. Having said that, there are of course those with a bit lighter, more brownish timber and we will make a tutorial for that variant as well. ;) As for the techniques in this video, I disagree, you don't get rid of brown tone altogether. The black paint is significantly watered down and transparent and brown colors from the previous steps, although subtle, play a big role in the final result. If I was to do the last two steps only - painted the timber in black color and drybrushed it with Karak Stone, I would get noticeably different look. Believe me I tried. :)
@@TabletopWorld If the actual buildings had such dark colored timber in real life then I guess that's fair, but a lot people that make miniatures probably won't want to go for that so it's probably best to mention the difference in the video next time. And I'm guessing seeing the brown on your model is easier in person than on the video.
@@spork861 Depends where you are. In France and Germany many half timbered buildings have the timbers in all kinds of colours. Red or various shades of blues you can see just as often as browns and the odd black. UK the black & white theme seems to be more common. But half timbered houses are not only found in the UK. I certainly would not stick with the black & white. I personally would go for a dark red colour for the timbers seen in the region I live in on many 17th century half timbered buildings.
00:00 - intro
PLASTER
00:28 - step 1
01:19 - step 2
02:32 - step 3
03:31 - step 4
TIMBER
05:01 - step 1
06:18 - step 2
07:15 - step 3
08:11 - step 4
PLASTER
09:26 - step 5
11:40 - step 6
13:30 - outro & gallery
This is so good. You guys deserve much more attention and views
So awesome that you're finally doing tutorials on RUclips! I've bought and painted several TTW buildings over the past few years. Absolutely amazing detail and quality! Keep up the great work guys!
Thank you very much Mike for your kind words and support! :)
It's amazing having you doing tutorials on RUclips! Keep up the good job!
Thank you Max! :)
You're tutorials are very informative, keep up the great work!
Thank you Ray! :)
Brilliant work!
thank you! :)
So excited for these series. Waiting for the 31st of Jan to use my coupon and get some buildings to try this on them!
Thank you Vicente for showing interest in our models! We hope these techniques will come in real handy. :)
Very nice tutorial, once again! Thanks for sharing this! 😊
Thank you Sonny! :)
Just loving it, fan for life👍😀🍻
Thank you Roger! :)
Nice work.
Thanks for the Tips.
Will revisit my Tabletop World models and make a few adjustments. 👍
Mon from Monsville Railways
Thank you Mon for you positive feedback! :)
Brilliant tutorial. Complements the first one so well. I cannot wait to try out the techniques. I wonder what the next one will be?
Keep up the amazing work, guys!
Thank you Richard! :) The next one will be on how to paint shingles and windows.
@@TabletopWorld That is a fantastic idea. A series of videos showing the complete process for the entire building. Please do that with some contrasting buildings from your range. Well done!!
Thank You
You're welcome Marcin! :)
Look forward to Roof and Windows! 😊
Thank you! :)
I have a question about scale. I got my order today in the mail and was a little uncertain about the size. Don't get me wrong, it goes without saying they are absolutely beautifully made. I was wondering though if maybe it's because I messed up and ordered something in a smaller scale, like maybe there are multiple size options? When I checked, it seems like some of the buildings are 32mm while most of what I got is 28mm. Some of the doors for example, seem too short for my 28mm models though, or even the spaces beside the doors are too small for their standard 28mm bases. Is this a "true" 28mm scale. I have a mausoleum that feels intuitively sized perfectly, but a cottage that seems very small. The smiths workshop too seems small, like my 28mm models would have to duck to get into the outdoor workshop. Any help or explanation would be appreciated. I am very willing to believe this is just the scale you guys use and I had the wrong expectations or ordered incorrectly or something, but I'm not sure. Thanks!
Hello, thank you for your interest in our models! :) Yes, the models from the "Midgard" range are in true 28mm scale while those from the Altburg range are in 32mm scale, or as some call it Heroic scale. Many miniatures advertised today as 28mm are actually made in heroic scale. Early Warhammer miniatures for example are in true 28mm scale while the later ones tend to be more in 32mm scale. That is the main reason why your miniatures are bit higher then some doors on our 28mm models (+ the fact that they are standing on a base). Having said that, small and short doors were very common in medieval times (to prevent heat loss). It was not unusual to duck the head when you were entering medieval houses.
@@TabletopWorld thanks for replying so quickly. This is what I suspected. Appreciate your work, thanks y'all
Question, how would you paint the plaster inside the house? Outside there's a lot of timber separating each plaster part, but inside each plaster part is much bigger, so not sure if these steps would work?
Hello Vicente, the technique is basically the same, paint should be brighter in the middle of the plaster areas and darker toward the edges (toward floor, corners, windows , doors, etc.). And you probably wouldn't want too much green, unless you want your house to have an abandoned, unhealthy look. :)
@@TabletopWorld Thank you so much!
Do you guys actually fill orders sent to you?
Can you list what paints you are using?
Done! ;)
Great tutorial! (But the “music” is bloody annoying 😉)
Thank you Peter for your compliment and input! ;)
What's the point of making the wood black? Old european buildings didn't use blackened wood for their constructions. It does fit a more grim mood/aesthetic but maybe keeping it SLIGHTLY dark brown would be better. Why bother painting it brown, dry brushing it, and then just getting rid of the brown tone all together.
I see what you were going for, to make the wood look extremely aged and darkened, but you overdid it so it's only black with dry brushing details showing through, no brown left. Instead of straight up slightly diluted black (black is the strongest pigment when it comes to paints) maybe you should have used a dark brown wash.
Thank you for your feedback Spork! The blackened wood on half timbered houses is a product of natural ageing, though the effect is sometimes recreated with a lick of black paint. During the 15th and 16th centuries, the decorative contrast between the dark timber and the lighter filling was at its highest. There is even a term "black and white village" which refers to several old medieval villages in England. Having said that, there are of course those with a bit lighter, more brownish timber and we will make a tutorial for that variant as well. ;)
As for the techniques in this video, I disagree, you don't get rid of brown tone altogether. The black paint is significantly watered down and transparent and brown colors from the previous steps, although subtle, play a big role in the final result. If I was to do the last two steps only - painted the timber in black color and drybrushed it with Karak Stone, I would get noticeably different look. Believe me I tried. :)
@@TabletopWorld If the actual buildings had such dark colored timber in real life then I guess that's fair, but a lot people that make miniatures probably won't want to go for that so it's probably best to mention the difference in the video next time.
And I'm guessing seeing the brown on your model is easier in person than on the video.
@@spork861 Depends where you are. In France and Germany many half timbered buildings have the timbers in all kinds of colours. Red or various shades of blues you can see just as often as browns and the odd black. UK the black & white theme seems to be more common. But half timbered houses are not only found in the UK. I certainly would not stick with the black & white. I personally would go for a dark red colour for the timbers seen in the region I live in on many 17th century half timbered buildings.