How To Build A Budget Expedition Touring Bicycle: Component Suggestions
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- Looking to buy a touring bicycle?
You will want a bike that can handle all kinds of road and weather conditions, and that won't leave you stranded in a remote area in case of a component failure. We think it's a great idea to build your own bicycle, so that you know every nut and bolt and will be able to fix it and service it on the road!
We chose quite a classic setup with components that have taken many people around the world and across tough terrain, off road, gravel, over snow covered mountain passes and across the most remote deserts. The components are easy to maintain and in case you need to, you will find spare parts no matter where the roads take you.
Hopefully this video can help you get out touring!
Let us know in the comments what components you would choose for your own custom touring bike build!
▾▾▾ Full list of all the components we suggest for this build below ▾▾▾
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FULL COMPONENT LIST:
Frame set:
Second Hand old MTB 100€
Merida - Dakar 660 SE
Bridgestone - 80’s / 90’s
Kuwahara - 80’s / 90’s Leopard / Marten
Jamis Dakota - 80’s / 90’s
Trek - early 90’s
Specialised - 80’s / 90’s
Schwinn - 80’s
Wheels:
Hubs: Shimano LX or Deore 30€
Rims: Ryde Andra 30, 26” 36h 38€
Spokes: DT Swiss Alpine III 54€
Nipples: Sapim Brass 14mm 6€
Tires: Marathon Plus Tour 40€
Rim Tape: Schwalbe 19mm 4€
Tubes: Schwalbe 13€
Drivetrain:
Bottom Bracket: Shimano UN-55 12€
(68mm English Thread, 122.5mm for suggested crank)
Crankset: Shimano Acera FC-M361 22-32-42T 25€
Pedals: MKS Sylvan Touring cup & cone 23€
Cassette: Shimano Alivio 11-34T CS-HG400-9 9-speed 14€
Rear Derailleur: Shimano Deore RD-M591-SGS 9 speed 29€
Front Derailleur: Shimano Deore RD-M591 20€
Chain: KMC X9 9-speed 15€
Cockpit
Handlebar: reuse the one that came with your frame
Shifters: 80's or 90's Huret Sache downtube shifters 20€
Brake Levers: Shimano Deore BL-T610 11€
Brakes: Shimano BR-T610 V-Brake 28€
Stem: Humpert Kobra-Tube 35€
Headset: Ritchey Logic 9€
Seatpost: Ergotc Skalar 40€
Saddle 40€
Front Rack: Tubus Tara Lowrider 46€
Clamp: Tubus LM1 9€
Rear Rack: Tubus Cargo Classic 59€
Mirror: Busch & Muller Standard 9€
Bottle holder: Alloy XL Bottle Cage, SJS cycles 13€
Wheel Building and/or other service from your local bike shop 100€
Total: 852€
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45 year pro bike mechanic here.
Your video and advice are spot on. A wealth of knowledge. 👍
Wow thanks, great to have your reassurance they know what they’re talking about!
Why not stepthrough frame bikes for long tour
@@gautam4697Stepthrough frame isn't as durable/strong AND lacks space for as much water or frame bag or both, air pump, click-stand storage, etc.
It´s so nice to see that people emphasize a lower budget way in this world of shiny carbon and titanium ;-)
Thank you 😁 It doesn't need to be shiny or expensive to take you around the world 🚲 🌍
@@NomadsTrails Sooo true and have fun with your expeditions
But steel is still the strongest 💪
money can't buy what they got
@Alien On a Bike Everything that has a beginning, has also an end, Neo. Her youth, our narcicism, and us treating money like a religion. They live in paradise - we watch.
This video is such a breath of fresh air. I love this kind of bike mechanic philosophy. Not going for the latest stuff, but just using what works, what's abundant, what's serviceable.
Additionally, focusing on budget is just so nice to see. I hate getting into a new hobby and having people tell me it's only for people who can afford it. This video is an absolute gem!
One thing that might be well worth the weight of carrying is a cassette spacer or three (of varying sizes). Then you can use any cassette you find that has less gears than what you normally use. They are usually aluminum, but they even make plastic ones which are probably a bit lighter. The shifter indexing has the same interval between the gears for 6, 7, & 8 speed. I can't recall if 9-speed is compatible, but even if it's not, it will work to get you to the next city or town with a supply of bicycle parts.
...actually, as I write this, I realize that you could use a cog off your bad cassette as a spacer for a new cassette with less gears. Use an appropriate width cog, or spacer from in-between your old cogs to act as a spacer. There's almost always a few individual cogs, although often times the larger ones are a single piece.
I would recommend volunteering, or working part-time at a bikeshop for a period of time before starting a long tour. You can learn so much and ask an experienced mechanic for guidance as you work on bikes and think of potential failures and see many yourself. Plus + you might get cheaper parts and accessories if you are employed by a bicycle shop!!! The knowledge you can attain working in a shop is priceless.
Okay, I feel like I'm rambling. Search "Sheldon Brown" and read and learn as much as you can from there. He wrote 'the bible' on bicycle maintenance. Unfortunately he has passed on...but his knowledge has been catalogued and is still being maintained. His website has THE BEST information I've ever found in one place regarding bicycle maintenance.
Edit: One last thing. Every bolt (every part) needs grease or thread-lock! And bring some thread-locking product on your tour. For your wheel nipples you can use boiled linseed oil. It acts as a grease and a thread-locker. If I ever go on a long tour I would probably carry a small container holding about 1/2 ounce of boiled linseed oil to use on any threads I undo and retighten. Boiled linseed oil is also used as a metal preservative for shovels and axes, so I trust it.
I LOVE YOU TWO!!! You're such lovely people. If you come to Texas I hope to meet you and ride with you. I will feed you and check your bikes for maintenance issues if you allow me to. You could even make a video of me describing what I check on a bicycle tourists bike. Headset, bottom bracket, hub, and pedal free-play is what I start with. Then checking all bolts for torque (by hand). Then derailleur limits. And finally spoke tension and wheel trueness. Sometimes it's difficult for the rider of the bicycle to recognize minor problems. Any shop I've ever worked at will give a tourist a free bike exam and do a quick adjustment for free. With luck and regular maintenance, that's all that is needed. And sometimes with luck a good mechanic will recognize a problem and be able to fix it before a failure. Any good shop in the U.S. will also troubleshoot problems and relay the information to another shop down the road so that you can have a part waiting for you when you arrive. No good shop wants you to have to postpone your tour and will happily trade loss of revenue for free word-of-mouth (or internet) advertising. And if you ever do have to wait for a part, the shop will probably be able to take care of tour accommodations (free camping or a bed sometimes) if you have to wait for a part that the mechanic doesn't want you to travel with before being replaced.
The first bikeshop that I was employed at was on a very popular U.S. bike-touring route that didn't have another shop for 180 miles in any direction. We often had tourists spend a few days with us. One tourist never finished his trip and stayed at the shop for over a decade (by choice).
...rambling again...
Thank you for your comment and many good points! 🙌🏾 Great tip about volunteering in a bike shop, and sounds like you have been amazing support for many cyclists. Hope we can meet one day! ✌🏽
Nomad's Trails : If your trip bring you through Texas I would LOVE to meet you two. I would be honored to ride a few [hundred] miles with you as well.
Your videos make me so happy. I binge-watched every one of them as soon as I discovered you online.
Thanks for sharing your love of cycling with the world.
Happy trails and much love my friends!!
6 speed freewheels are not spaced the same as 7 and 8 speed. If you use friction shifters, this is not a problem, but 7 and 8 speed shifters are not compatible with 6 speed. You're correct about 7&8.
The way you presented this build made it look so simple yet so rugged and ready to take on the world. Loving this build guys! 😎👍
Hey friends! Greetings from bike travelers here from Brazil! @expandindomundos
Hey from #chopanbacha Austria
Greeting back From Gambia!🙌🏽
@@NomadsTrails Thanks!!! Good video!!
Love that you guys accounted for bike mechanic services in the total cost! Very realistic and helpful
I would be tempted to go for the smallest crankset cogs you can get away with. You will likely need to drag up some long slow hills with a heavy bike on tour so try to fit a 22 tooth smalest front cog if you can.rather than a 26. Many cheap mountain bike cranksets have a 22 tooth smallest cog. I never worry about the size of the largest crankset cog as you wont be wanting to pedal at 40 mph downhill with heavy panniers etc. On tour the lower gears are more important than the higher ones
So refreshing to see that you are making common sense recommendations based on durability, serviceability, availability, compatibility, and budget. Yeah, you can find a square taper BB practically anywhere; try doing that with a Hollowtech or whatever. May I share a story? My friend's grandfather was pretty big in the cycling scene in Chile (certainly this was the early days). He was on a long ride through Patagonia when he encountered a flat. Having no spare tube or patch kit, he was faced with a very long walk back to anywhere he could properly service his bike. But he came up with an idea. He cut a small hole in his tube and began stuffing dry grass, which he had rubbed into very small pieces, into the tube. Next he found a water source and put the water in the tube as well. He tied off the area so that it wouldn't bulge, and put it all back together. The water caused the dry grass to swell and fill out the tube/tire, and he was able to ride back with his clever fix! Moral of the story? Common sense and cleverness are the best tools to have along on a ride.... well, and good preparation! Thanks for sharing all three with us in spades. :)
This is a excellent video, old mountain bikes are the perfect touting bikes, also make good gravel bikes.
your component list is very comprehensive.
very well thought out.
thankyou
Thank you 🙌🏾
True, I use one 1990 mtb (updated many times) for my daily commuters, perfect
Another option is to get a 90s steel mountain bike with a 1 1/8 fork (often hard tails) and replace it with a rigid Surly troll fork. I've done that with a 96 Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo. I then added a Jones bar.
That's a good option!
I've been stuck at home for 4 months now and watching you travel is very therapeutic to me! Stay healthy and stay strong, looking forward to you guys getting on the road again!
Thank you, happy to hear you are enjoying our videos!
There is huge cycling wisdom in this video. So nice to see and hear, when most young folk seem obsessed with "tech" must be "best thinking". The aim of cycling anywhere is to HAVE FUN, not to have pricey possessions!
I'm only a few minutes in, and already applauding the know-how. :D Your choices are so schewd and logical.
Sheldon-Brown type wisdom here.
This is great advice for commuter bicycles too.
You guys are amazing, more power to your journey nd have a amazing life... 🙏🏼 Love from India
Thanks Anand! ❤️
7:43 this is terrible advice. Use a pressure calculator to calculate your tyre pressure based on wheel/tyre size and total system weight. If you run your tyres at max pressure not only will you risk punctures because they won't deform over rocks, but it'll ride like shit and fatigue you over long distances.
Love from India ❤️. Stay safe and healthy.
❤️❤️
@@NomadsTrails come to India someday 🤘
@Block Chain why? Explain please 🙏
Hey guys your doing so much good
But I feel like your efforts are getting more where u can use electric battery for your bycycle so that u can do more with bycycle...
It is just in my mind sorry if anything wrong
I wish to travel around the world love your travel
❤️
I love this. Building a bike with fancy, expensive parts is easy. You just write a big check. But being frugal takes a bit more creativity.
I recently built a budget bike for riding in the rain and in the winter. It lacks the sophistication of my expensive stuff; but it works very well and is more durable. Good bikes do not have to be expensive.
Hi try Philippines. You will love biking here.
We hope to visit Philippines at some point 😊
See you
You too are beautiful people keep up the good work...
I was very pleased that your video popped up, especially as you encourage people to build their own bicycles and to learn how to maintain, service and repair the bicycle and it's component parts.
Although I still have my 1989 Specialized Hard Rock I will be touring and camping using a tiny folding bicycle made by Brompton.
That way I can benefit from multi modal travel, using trains, underground networks and buses, coaches and boats where applicable.
On trains, underground networks and buses I can use my pass so travel is free and I will be bringing one of my Alpacka Raft Packrafts to take myself and the Brompton paddling.
By building one's own bicycle you can have everything you prefer and be fully confident that you know exactly how your bicycle and it's components operate and are able to maintain and repair them without worrying about the quality or cost of having a stranger work on your bicycle. Subscribed.
Bromptons are interesting bikes for touring for sure, enables a different way of touring! On a long tour, tire and rim wear might become a problem tho 😅 Will be interesting to hear all the places you will go with such a versatile kit. Welcome to our channel! 🙌🏽
Loved your attitude and perspectives. Thanks for your details all around and Why!!
And more, i really prefer the disc brakes because if I do get a broken spoke or slightly out of true the brakes still function great, but I would get a cable one not hydraulic, lower maintenance. Loved your kickstand idea, I did a similar thing while touring Africa in 1995, I used a Masai stick which was really strong 💪.
I a long time to see you guy . i watch all you vedio in lockdown they are all awarsome just like i am there
❤️
@@NomadsTrails invited you in India when every things allright . love from india
Hello. I really enjoy your videos and your passion for your experiences. While watching and listening to your words, I heard some words that feel negative...BUT is a negative word. Try using HOWEVER, it gives a little more lift or hope to the conversation. Keep on rolling.
Thanks Joshua for the feedback 😊
you have pretty accenet. I like that
I just need to upgrade my panniers and racks and I'm done, my bike is great so far. I'm not into the bikepacking minimalism, at 60 I want comfort; I've done all that when i was younger, older bones need a lot of rest and so a great sleep system is vital as is a great saddle. I got my bike and another mtb for £50! that's what? 57.76 Euro. Oh and i have 21 gears and front and rear suspension. 8000 km so far for me.
Update. I just got a Falcon Adventurer 21 speed and Dawes Galaxy Tourer both for under £300 ( not sure what that is in €'s.).
Probably the best and most honest video on bicycle components on RUclips.
Just great!
I've been going with Shimano Altus, Acera or Alivio for years, riding a lot and have never had any issues.
There are cheap non-friction shifters also from Sun-Race.
I prefer 7-speed cassettes up to 34 teeth. They last longer than 9-speed, but they are hard to get with 34 teeth. 7-speed one can also get flywheels up to 34 teeth. For flywheel it's another hub.
But: No worries, of course 8- and 9-speed are also existing.
With a Shadow rear derailleur like for example the Shimano Altus it goes up to 36 teeth on a 9-speed cassette.
Chain: The KMC 7-speed, not the very basic one, 9-speed Shimano XT = CN-HG93 or a KMC.
I like the Shimano MT-300 crankset, which is a Hollowtech II one. 44/32/22 teeth, steel chainrings. Hollowtech II is stiffer than the squared one, but the bottom bracket must be from Hope or Chris King to be long-lasting and not having any issues. Shimano has many very great parts, but the Hollowtech II bottom brackets do not last very long.
For squared Shimano bottom brackets I have made better experiences with the BB-UN26 than the 55. The best was the old XT 72, but they no longer produce it.
Hubs: Shimano Acera are also not bad.
V-Brakes: Shimano Alivio or Deore with cartridge brake pads are good.
Everybody knows that Shimano XT is a good riding experience and has cult status for a relatively high price, but Shimano Altus is even better, because it works good and lasts long for a low price.
Great video guys! Retro MTBs are the best budget tourers. This is full of great advice that isn't tainted by the marketing campaigns. The only thing I'd say is the headset suggestion. Although very cheap, those Ritchey Logic headsets suffer badly in wet weather as they have almost no weather sealing and do not last long! I'd recommend the Stronglight A9 headset. It's no Chris King, but a major step up from the Ritchey Logic. Although it is a 1" threaded headset, it uses cartridge bearings commonly found in 1 1/8" headsets. As a result, they need very little maintenance, replacement bearings are easy to source and offer great weather sealing if riding in poor conditions. A little more expensive, but worth it in my opinion.
All your advice about choosing drive components and wheels and frame etc. Really well informed, put together and researched. I hope potential cycle tourists come cross this and are no longer intimidated at the price of high-end touring bikes and can put together a reliable inexpensive rig, just as your guide described.
Great stuff!
Thank you, great input about the headset. We'll check it out! ✌🏽
Watching you guys is inspiring. Am taking a 6 day course on how to care and maintain your bike offered by my local bike store.
Love from Washington
That is awesome! 🙌🏾
There are great videos in Park Tool page, well worth a visit
@@pedronalesso1464 Thanks for the info
You're not in Spokane, by chance?
In 1993 me and my girl friend bought new but cheap steel Marin mountain bikes. In 96 We up graded some worn components and had extra bosses for front rack and down tube bottle then a respray. New hand built wheels and in 97 we set off around the world on converted £250 mtbs. 3 years on the road and the only major issue was racks failing so we had new steel ones made in Nepal. We still have the bikes and there still usable. To be honest they've faired better than me. You don't need or want a flashy bike to tour or travel. This is a brilliant video
You guys are inspiration. Everyone gets married ...!! Have kids ...!! Raise them...Bla bla bla ...but this is adventure .. travelling around the world in bicycle ....!! Not even Billionaires can have the experience what you guys are having ...!! God bless you guys 🙏❣️
Love from India...🥰
They can if they want to. Just have to try and be physically and mentally able to do it.
Great video, so useful for many people! I started touring this way, really helps reduce the friction of going on a tour when your bike doesn't cost too much.
Thanks Samuel ❤️
This was already my plan to use a full sized mountain bike that folds and upgrade all the components. Folding for worldwide travel. Your previous video was very helpful for me and I wrote down all your components. But this video is even better. Thank you for your hard work at putting this together. Ride safe.
Thank you, and good luck for your build and on your tour!
Great video. Thank you for making it. Very informative
Thank you!
I appreciate your approach to traveling, and useful content. You are wonderful people )
incredible video Big 👍 n thx a lot for share guys ✌️
You are welcome ❤
The GT All Terra is a touring worthy frame for rougher roads. There are better touring specific frames but I see no reason to discourage using the GT here if that's what you have. You can even partially kit it out with bikepacking bags on the frame and front pannier racks on the fork.
Also, Univega and Diamond Back bicycles from the late 80s and early 90s are also suitable for touring, but definitely follow this list and look for touring specific frames from the mentioned brands if they happen to be available. They will likely price in a little bit higher, but you get what you pay for.
If you have shorter chainstays, the Tubus Logo Evo rear rack will help as it allows you to mount your pannier further back on the rack to clear those pedal strikes.
Brass nipples and 36 steel spokes is recommended. Also recommend the Deore hubs. I also advise square taper bottom brackets as they are more durable and more compatible for replacement during tour. They can also be more serviceable and you might already have an unsealed bearing setup that only needs a cleanout, new bearings and grease to be ready for your next tour. There's other brands of rim you can go with including the Sun Ringle Rhyno Lite rims. Anything double walled, and preferably something that has eyelets for stress relief should serve you. And definitely if you build your own wheels, learn to use a wheel gauge to even out the stress on the spokes. This will keep the wheel true longer, and make it less prone to breaking if you take the time to dial it in. Replacing spokes on the road is a downtime you may want to avoid.
If you run an internal gear hub then I suggest Spa Cycles in the UK for their chainrings and chainguards as they are a touring based bike shop that has extremely affordable touring parts. Sometimes having that chain/bash guard to keep the chain from falling off the big ring on a 2x or even 3x front crankset will be a huge relief if your drivetrain starts getting a little unruly in between servicing.
A dynamo hub is a nice luxury if you need power generation as you go. As most people take phones and map devices, it's handy to keep them charging throughout the day, especially when cycling through wild places or out of civilization for a few days. Definitely optional, but if you're about to build a wheel set it's worth thinking about if that's something you need before you buy spokes and build something up.
MTB Frames are better off being front loaded at a 60/40 distribution, so keep that in mind as you build yours up. As the thumbnail picture suggests, a Surly front rack is a supremely versatile rack rated to 77lbs of gear. That said those racks will require pipe clamp adapter kits to mount to forks without the required mounting positions. You can instead replace your bicycle's front fork with a Surly Troll fork for native support and support for a wide variety of mounting options including cargo cage mounting (mounting smaller bags on the fork blades). In doing so, you may be converting from a threaded steerer to threadless, which allows for more modern stem options as well as an opportunity to decide a higher stem height before you cut the steerer tube down. You can mix and match, such as running lowrider pannier racks in combination with a handlebar mounted bag on the Surly Troll fork, or just get the Surly rack with the fork and enjoy that broad top platform and pannier support on the sides. Better quality front racks will include mounting points for dynamo lighting, and you can also internally route your lighting with a Troll fork up into something like a headset USB charger (this is all just luxury but if you start with an affordable frame these niceties might be in your budget!). This fork is beefy and up to the task.
Thumb shifters or friction shifters that can convert to index are simply more reliable, period.
If your bike comes with bar end grips, you can put silicone sealed foam grips on those to give your hands a cushy relief. Long rides in the saddle can fatigue your hands, as will having an aggressive bent posture, so the ability to change positions is vital. I like butterfly handlebars. I like them even better than most of the touring style bars like the Jones H bar, or the VO Crazy bar, or even the Surly Moloko bar. Butterfly bars also make it much easier to mount accessories out of the way, though you may have to be more creative with cable routing around the bars and stem in some situations depending on where you mount your shifters and brake levers.
Wonderful video that was once again suggested to me and I felt inspired to share. Happy touring!
I also wonder why they did not recommend the steel GT frame.. does the triple triangle frame design make it a stiffer ride?
@@01234david It's absolutely fine for touring. I too would like to hear their arguments against it.
A very positive and cheerful girl. Your couple awakens a taste for life. All the best to you, Good luck in everything and mutual love for each other!
This video is Gold.. You guys did a great job and touched on some very important considerations.
Good luck Sir.....From Pakistan.....You people are amazing.......i really enjoy while watching you are vlogs......and i wait for you are new videos.......Sir also visit Pakistan.....
Are MTB's good for touring? If yes, I am really looking forward to buy on of the b-twin MTB's which one do you suggest?
Old MTB's can be good for touring, we suggest few brands in the video which we know those made good frames. We don't know about B-twin bikes 😊
@@NomadsTrails Thank you for responding☺️ I'll look for an optimum one both in cost and performance . Please be safe and Healthy . I saw your vegetable garden that's really awesome🤩.
Great video! Lots of clear concise information.
Glad if you find it useful!
Why no love for the GT triple triangle frame?
Never tried it on long tour 😊
Why don't you guys use disc brakes.They are much friendly.
We like rim brakes because they are so easy to service and spare parts are more available around the world 😊
Rim brakes are usually cheaper and you will get spare parts easier in less developed countries. However, if you cycle in western countries, you will also get spare parts for disc brakes easily. Personally I really like disc brakes, they offer a nice brake feeling, and they are better for mountain biking (new mountain bikes today exclusively have discs). If you use them for commuting, they usually need less maintenance than rim brakes, which demand more adjustments if you drive 5k km + per year.
cheap for sure, but on the market there are alternative that won't cost much more than this. Another alternative for 800-900$ is to buy a second hand touring bike.
Cycle for travel is great for health and saving money
As you need not to get fuel
And it also environment friendly
And you can go any where also cary it where you want.
🙌
i buy my bicycle fuel @ the liquor store
From Kuwait
Thank goodness your back.. miss you guys!
Thanks for sharing a good tip.
keep safe guys as always, looking forward for more vlogs.
All the love from Philippines.🥰
Hey where have you guys you been. I missed your vlogs. Looking forward to you going back on the road
Good job with explaining all the stuff and I totally agree on the old frames. Went Germany to Thailand on a 1989 Kuwahara Cheetah I build. You already mentioned most good brands...I would put the late 80s / early 90s bikes from Koga Miyata on the list aswell. If youre buying lucky a bike comes with some mint conditioned Ukai, Araya or Alesa rims which are very strong too and from my experience I can recommend some good old thumb shifters from shimano for cheap. Friction shifters rules! Keep pedaling :)
Thanks for the input, appreciate it highly 🙌 happy cycling ❤
Hello you two - my huge compliments to your journey. I am now an avid follower and am in awe of your great spirit and devotion to the adventure. I cycled along the Iberian coastline this 2020 year - had a blast while discovering a passion and love for bike touring. COVID-19 had nothing on me !! What I did was pretty raw. With a 650€ budget I went to good old decathlon and purchased their budget Riverside Btwin bike (260€). From there, i equipped it with similar budget decathlon products - saddles, rack, lights, camping gear - not changing anything on the bike. It was scary but it worked. Nothing broke, I cycled on terrains no one should ever even following the hiking trail of Compostela de Santiago. I got to France on the expected date to start working on the vineyards. All this to say is that I know nothing about bikes and their components and am very grateful for decathlon cheap products. With you two in sight my project is to build a bike as you did. It would be fantastic ! My question is this : do you think that the Btwin riverside 500 bike - link here: ruclips.net/video/xItgXLG4XxU/видео.html
Labeled as a hybrid or gravel bike could be a frame you would recommend ? Again thanks for showing up and being an inspiration ! Greetings from South Africa - I’d be happy to host you ! @cam_acacia
Generally excellent advice. DT Swiss spokes definitely..spare no expense on the spokes...even on a budget touring bike! Pro tip - if you go with drop handlebars then take a look at Gevenalle shifters...I love them. Also as an alternative to the Schwalbe Marathon try Maxxis Overdrive Elite...very similar and also made of kevlar.
Thanks Simon for compliment and the tips! 🙌😊
I've come to trust Schwalbe A LOT. Though, to be fair, if I wouldn't actually work as a bicycle mechanic, I'd take that advice more serious. Well, if there wasn't the problem that those tyres aren't available at all over here without importing them.
Still, for everyone who has them available, and doesn't work in the field, that's solid advice to shave the budget a bit. Maybe I'll run into them on a tour, if so, I'll pick them up
Great video. I purchased 2 Steel bikes for my kids, just before lock down 1990s mtbs/hybrids. I fixed them up and they are great. Just showed them the video - "see! You can go around the world in these bikes if you want!!"
Thank you! Love this story, please say our greetings to the kids! ❤️❤️
2 cents about new bike options at 800 eur price level in europe- riverside touring 520- out of box- declared 180 kg frame load . 1x10sp, 36 spokes 28"+front dynamo hub.+inlc rear rack for40 kg load, hydraulic disc brakes. Required add only front rack (50-100 eur). the second option Fuji travel- brand new also ~ at 800 eur level. Over all you get long travel bike frame geometry, w/o need to play and invest on MTB sitting position corrections.
Hi guys i am trying to leave a comment on your blog, but it keeps saying no, as I am suspected of being a bot lol 😆 take me to your leader.
Thanks David, we'll try to sort it!
@@NomadsTrails no probs, its just incase lot of others are as well, ps am getting a long haul trucker yaaa .
"This is not advertise.." ... "...Ergotech...", "Ergotech...", "Did I mentioned Ergotech?". Yeah, go-o-ot it...
Better more tell about why and how then what.
Working in a shop in Vienna... 26 and rim brakes rule... this video is just too good! anytime welcome, if you cross by.
The best touring bike is the one you own.
100% agree 🙌
You are absolutely right! Because I was once a category one bicycle racer, people often ask me which bike is best. They expect to hear me say something about Specialized, Giant, Trek, or Cannondale, but I like to say that the best bike is the one that is being put to good use.
A few years ago, I had too many bikes (17!), so I gave to an old friend (who was very poor) a cheap, ugly, early 80s KHS mountain bike (I had replaced the original wheels in the mid-90s), thinking that her daughter would ride it to and from school. A year later, I checked in with my friend, learned that the bike had actually gone to her nephew (whose family was even more poor), and that he had just returned from a 2,000 km bike trip during which he finally saw his family's country of origin. He told her that it was a life-changing experience, and that the bike had worked perfectly. Wow, can it get any better than that? :)
@@km6xu well done pal what cycling is about cheep travel
Damn straight. I’m no rich boy dumping thousands into a bike. My salsa with upgraded tires and gears will do.
Stupid comment
Knowledgeable and very entertaining to watch. Excellent video, thank you!
My first touring bike (also self-built) was a little more expensive but it stayed under 1000 €, which I thought was very good for the components I used (used, older models, cheap but good no-name components where applicable)
Well done, keep it up!
God Bless
Great video as always guys! a lot of information in here. My current expedition bike is also built from an old styled mtb frame, suspension was substituted by a nice steel rigid fork for simplicity. It's amazing the sense of freedom it gives, knowing that you can go everywhere with it, roads... mountains... trails...
Excellent
Trek early 90s, 900 series , 930, 950, 970. They have long wheelbase and rack mounts. You need to change handlebars and stem to fit you maybe,. Another off the radar Schwinn Paramount PDG 40 ,50 RANGE frame and Shimano Deore,
Thank you so much for this video. I'm getting ready to live as a nomad with my Trek 800 sport. Love our community! Hello from northern Colorado!
You've very sensibly gone for the lowest tech but best performance for the job, which is why I'm a little intrigued why you stuck with a front-derailleur 3x groupset. Why not do like the MTB crowd & do a 1x conversion? Less to go wrong, right? I'm otherwise with you on all the other choices - I have a '95 Lapierre Pelvoux which I crossed France on & did the Land's End to John O'Groats ride on. 100 miles/day was easily achievable, and it's still rideable today.
I have just bought used, but in great condition, retro MTB for 65 EUR based on this video :) and hopefully saved myself a ton of money compered to what I have previously envisioned that will have to spend. Have no intention to travel the world but I hope to do couple of ~800 km tours within my own country. Complete Deore Lx gear, 36 spokes 26" wheels - UKAI rims, chromoly frame with strong rear rack for panniers already mounted on strong fat pins on the frame. Will buy only new 2.0 marathon tires as suggested ( cost more then a bicycle :) ). The two things are that there are no holes in the middle of the fork for the front rack and the small cog on the crankset is 26, not 22... Will try to think something out. Thank You Nomads!
I rebuild bicycles for a hobby.... usually fixing the abused Walmart models.
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I have one of these GTs and was debating how to rebuild it... this video inspired me. I'm not going all in with luggage mounts but can switch out some components.
Hey peyman and Matilda you really explained every thing (like every dust and particle of ur bike) really well explained...hats off to u ...
And peyman inspite of ur English language barrier u really are going in explaining things in English keep it up I am following u on every platform u are present hats off to ur work and will power.....
And ur garden was awesome to see u both are taking good care of our plants again hats off for that.....
Inspite of this Corona lockdown u are stick to ur world tour keep it up bro....
Will definitely seems to me I am writing an essay but I am ur biggest fan just be safe.........
Bye and thanks for ur review
And peyman I love ur hand swings will explaining 🤭but keep it up lots of love from india for u both eagerly waiting for u....
You are true nomads.......
Bye.....😍😍🇮🇳🇮🇳🇮🇳😁🤗🙏🙏🙏🙏
I rebuild of hardtail rigid front fork mountain bikes into dropbar touring bikes. They are so versatile and can take from 26" x 2.125" knobby tires down to 26" x 1.5" smooth tread or slick road tires. I use Ego or Brifters (bake lever and shift levers combined in the same unit) for simplicity and ease of shifting. The dropbar handlebar gives many comfortable positions. I also like to use cyclo-cross aka interrupter brake levers on the top portion of the handlebar.
You do NOT have to pay a fortune to get a decent touring bike if you use and old MTB as your starting point.Many of those already have old school Shimano DEORE components on them. I've bought a number of such bikes in excellent shape for $40 Canadian.
Today i bought a 30 yr old steel mtb Giant Gsr400 and hope to turn it into a decent travelbike. Your video’s where the inspiration to start the project. Thanks !
In this video, everything the big boys tell you is obsolete about your old bike, becomes an advantage!
This was very good, informative and enjoyable, kudos, thanx.
There is no way such sizing would fit me, and I would hate the steep head angle, and the long stem, not just because I am riding a enduro bike, with modern geometry, but it would actually be beneficial to have a stable bike for touring too, not have horrible steering. but of coursers not as slack head angle as my enduro bike which has same angle as a motocross bike, but some where in between would be nice.
I ride Nicolai/Geometron G1, which is an enduro bike, but I love the fit and geometry. I haven't done any touring, and that bike is overkill for touring, but my point is the sizing and stability of the bike is great.
Cool.
So many classic bike bits here, and a few obscure bits that make it all work. I've been fettling my own bikes for 40 years and I recognise a lot of these bits as being excellent value.
It is annoying that to get a nicer new tourer rapidly puts you up in the the 3000€+ territory (hub gears, belt, jones bars, hub dynamo etc). An intermediate level new bike is the Genesis Tour der fer is a very good classic steel tourer for a reasonable amount of money (£1500).
Hi, I have a doubt. I found the shimano Deore hub for my Trek single track 1991 but I'm confused about the measurements. The length of the rear hub should be 135mm?...and there is another measure which says 168mm? What measures or hubs should I use? Thanks
For the wheels, I don't recomand using the ERD announced by the manufacturer. I've heard a Bike Mechanic complain about the fact that Ryde rim manufacturer's ERD is not the same as the measured ERD.
Good advice. Im a big fan of older MTB frames for 26 wheels, they are bombproof and do make super durable tourers espec for wild terrain and as u point out maintainability in the field is real important. Whats the point in belt drives, bottom bracket gear box's and all that stuff, when it could be a complete show stopper as soon as a problem shows up.
Everything functions properly ruclips.net/user/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L Nothing was damaged in the box aside from a decal on the fork. The decal was missing a piece of a corner but I ended up peeling them off anyways. Assembly is easy BUT make sure you tune up the derailleurs. Both the front and rear need adjusting. I'd advise going to a bike shop but I opted out and put in 10+ hours with the help of RUclips. Ended up fraying a shifter cable but all in all I learned from the experience. The Brakes work well but the front caliper needs adjusting or at least mine did because the rotor was rubbing against the pads. Make sure you swap out the seat, grips, and pedals. For the short run you'll be fine though. I've read that this bike isn't built yet for hard trails but I just need it for the city. PA has some of the worst roads and being in a mountain this was a great choice. Worth the investment!
Nice vlogs sir and mam...new subscriber here..thanks for your informative vedios 😊🤛
Totally agree with your paradigm. The early MTB's had frame geometries that closely match touring bikes: long wheel base and a medium upright posture. Many had all the rack and bottle bosses and, many had tapered, curved forks that help absorb road shock. I avoid those that have the cheaper-to-produce straight tube forks. One ride and you'll agree. Mine is an '89 Trek 830, a mi-range bike in that line up, but it still comes with forged drop outs, bombproof Shimano Deore group, (850 and 870 came with the DeoreXT) and BEST OF ALL: Shimano BioPace chainrings. This is the main featuire I look for in a MTB/Tourer. They absolutely LEVEL hills when loaded - or not. Other bikes have a similar non-round chainring system by Sakae. Just as good.
Because of the inherent robust ness of these old bikes, I sold off my expensive touring models and keep on using these. Get yourself a nice Brooks saddle and figure out where you want the bars - and go.
Are you crazy, i buy old 26" bianchi bike with shimano delore xt everything with new tires shimano brakes new seat for 45 euro in Bulgaria. And you tell me 600 euro in Asia. Come on.
I'm planning to do a proper tour on bycycle leaving everything behind. Hope your knowledge would help.
Its nice to see a sturdy and reliable bike for well under £1000, as a heavier rider I would be interested to know what the maximum carrying weight (Rider + gear) of this setup would be. My only other comment would be where can you get Schwalbe Marathon Plus Tour tyres for 20e each, in the UK best price I have seen is £32, still worth the money though, as they are the nearest thing to indestructible tyres that I have ridden. I haven't ever been convinced about the save every last gram approach, a small increase in component weight is not going to make any difference when rider + gear could be as much as 120kg, and durability and reliability are more important to me.
To be honest, you could probably buy a 10-50€ retro mtb, fiddle with the bike fit and service it well, and start pedaling. Unless you are traveling in the absolute wilderness, if anything breaks, just replace it. If your entire bike falls apart, you could probably buy parts or even an entire new bike if necessary. It was cheap anyway and you can take the parts that matter off to put on a new bike.
Believe it or not, it is damn near impossible to find old frames where I live. I look on all the used sites and nothing. I can find a lot of Walmart garbage, but not decent frames from the 80s. ebay has frames.... but for crazy money and crazy shipping prices. I could buy a NEW frame for the same price.
Please come to india u both lovely couples.. 🇮🇳🇮🇳🇮🇳🇮🇳🇮🇳 If u want i can give you my email id and i will also host you when you will come in my City..
So informative video ! Love for you guys !
A question - you forbade to have a frame with a suspension, but isn't that going to be risky in case of extreme gravel roads or uphill ? Any particular reason to avoid suspension ? TIA ❤
I am wondering the same thing
Me too
Maintenance issues but if you want to carry parts and don't go to Africa, Asia, SE Asia, Middle East, Central America, South America you are probably fine if you don't mind paying high prices for servicing.
I've got my touring bike in all wrong setup. aluminum frame, 700c wheels, and hydraulic brake. the only good thing is I use Deore.
I'm thanking y'all good people for this video. it will come in handy next time I prepare my bike for new trip, after all this crazy pandemic gone.
stay safe.
Hi, i wouldn't be worry about your current bike. if you are not going for a long tour and not to any remote park of the world , I would cycle with it, just make sure you got right steam, seatpost, saddle and good tires. If the wheels are not that good, try to use the front breaks often rather than rear breaks, enjoy of the ride 😊
Does the bike fit you? Has anything broken yet? There is more than one way to build a good touring bike, it also depends on what kind of tours you want to make.
get a cheap bike and spend your money on good components . Gearing for long horrible climbs means having more low gears than what came with the bike . Buying a cheap bike means you can buy what you need from the money you saved. Whereas I do not go to other parts of the world I do tours within Canada and I now ride a Bacchetta Giro A20 touring recumbent modified to what I want. Lower lows and lower high gears , a different seat and crank arms reduced from 170 mm to 153 mm. It all makes a difference when climbing loaded. In hindsight if I was to buy the same bent again it would be cromoly as aluminum may be lighter but has less flex. BTW getting on a recumbent and riding it till you are used to the attributes , you realize that the comfort levels far exceed any that a diamond frame bike will ever give you. However it depends on where you ride and what you ride on. Safety wise I never have to hold my head up to see where I am going and I am highly visible to cars and trucks .
Wow thx! great tutorial for us that are thinking on doing such an adventure, and very thorough as well.........only thing is can't put a finger on whether watching this guy (sorry missed his name) makes me tired or dizzy 🤔
You mentioned no suspension on your front tyre is it bad to have suspension?
It's another part that needs service, and it is heavier to cycle 😊
@@NomadsTrails Thanks for sharing that Info...looking forward to your new endeavors ahead Much love and best wishes to both of you❤️
Hi Matilda can I ask what size is your lht ,i am getting one but have only a 30 inch inside leg, so not sure if i should get a 42cm or the 46 cm cheers gorgeous 😊.
More detail, I like it
🙌
Really informative.......
glad to hear!😊
Salute to both of u ,so far I couldn't get any other videos , other than yours who could speak, with heart and soul like you.I feel that you have tried your level best to reduce the cost, without reducing strength.
Inspite of having mother tongue Hindi,I felt your language as just like my mother tongue.
Because you don't want that any one should suffer on the way,and every one should be benefitted by your hard earned experience of last 10years.
The best bicycle to start your travel - is the bicycle you own now. As you go along, you will upgrade if/when you need
Great video guys
Thanks ❤