HOW TO TELL IF A FABRIC IS GOING TO BE HARD TO SEW WITH? What you wish someone told you starting!
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 29 авг 2024
- Make bad fabric choices? We all do! Let's talk about how to know if a fabric will be harder or easier to sew with, so you know what you're getting yourself in for when you choosing fabric!
Want to go really deep in understand fabrics and how it applies to your sewing? Join me at Vintage Sewing School and I will show you how!
✂
*Learn to sew with me at VINTAGE SEWING SCHOOL : www.vintagesew...
And even take a free class!
✂
*My favourite SEWING SUPPLIES : www.amazon.com...
*Sign up for my newsletter and get free access to my crash course to learn to sew! www.evelynwood...
// WHAT TO WATCH NEXT:
How to DESIGN AND PLAN YOUR BEST SEWING SPACE, using the space you have!-Get 'Sew Organized' Phase 1
• How to DESIGN AND PLAN...
The best way to SORT AND ORGANIZE YOUR SEWING supplies! Get Sew Organized Phase 2!
• The best way to SORT A...
How to STORE AND DECORATE YOUR SEWING supplies for your ultimate sewing space! Sew Organized Phase 3
• How to STORE AND DECOR...
HOW TO CHOOSE THE RIGHT FABRIC FOR THE RIGHT SEWING PATTERN! ✂Know what you're ACTUALLY looking for!
• HOW TO CHOOSE THE RIGH...
What needle size for what fabric?
• What size sewing machi...
4 RANDOM THINGS YOU MIGHT NOT KNOW ABOUT SEWING! ✂ Did you know...
• 4 RANDOM THINGS YOU MI...
5 SEWING MISTAKES THAT MAKE YOUR CLOTHES LOOK HOMEMADE!
• 5 SEWING MISTAKES THAT...
TO PRE-WASH OR NOT TO PRE-WASH YOUR FABRIC BEFORE SEWING??? Why do I have to pre-wash fabric anyway?
• TO PRE-WASH OR NOT TO ...
14 things I wish someone told me about sewing as a beginner!
• 14 things I wish someo...
// FOLLOW me on my other social media channels:
INSTAGRAM : / evelyn__wood
WEBSITE : www.evelynwood...
FACEBOOK : / evelynwoodvintage
And don’t forget to subscribe!
Until next time
Evelyn
…
#sewing #learntosew #sewingclothes #evelynwood
What's the most nightmare fabric you've seen with??
✂️ If you want to really take your sewing to the next level and really know fabric, I invite you to join me at Vintage Sewing School www.vintagesewingschool.com/
Pink and lavender lame. Making a fairy costume for Halloween for my daughter when she was a baby. That is a slippery nightmare I'd sooner not repeat.
A satin with glitter and sequins. Made my daughter a costplay outfit to resemble a koy fish turning to human form. Everytime the needle hit a piece of glitter it would jump around. Looked amazing when done, but not fun to cut or sew.
It's a tossup between silk crepe de chine and jersey knits. I had a very basic sewing machine circa 1970. My best friend became tissue paper under the fabric as I sewed.
Loose, airy colorful but slippery knit... all the fraying of a loose weave, and lacy holes that were bigger than a long machine stitch!
A really thin viscose knit. So slippery, so delicate. It was a nightmare. Another one was also a thin knit. Not as slippery but even the thin ball point needle put holes in it.
I recently sewed some silky sheer fabrics. One of the best tricks to keep everything in place was to sandwich the fabric between pieces of tissue paper. The paper added enough structure and grip to keep the presser foot in place, and it tears away very cleanly. This trick also works with suede. (I also use a walking foot 100% of the time.) LOVE you videos!
My Mother has saved me many times sewing kids' costumes with nightmare fabrics. One cold Halloween I was so chuffed that I'd thought to line all the gauzy princess dresses with polar fleece and my Mom calmly said: 'hem those up or puddle water will add 10lbs.' She also uses painter's tape to control faux fur. Genius.
I recently bought some basic metallic washers since I didn't have pattern weights and many youtubers seem to use those. Then I realized they are magnetic, so now I slide the washer under fabric since they are flat and then I put a magnet on top of them. Makes cutting so much easier.
that’s such a good tip thank you for sharing!!!!!
When I was buying my sewing machine, I insisted that the machine be able to handle 6+ layers of heavy weight denim. They thought I was nuts. But when you are sewing cosplay, you never know what you have to sew.
That so-called fabric that is used in sewing machine demos is the pits. Always take swatches of what you sew or might consider sewing when you’re buying a machine.
😆 That was a very wise choice to stick to your must haves! And anyway, 8 layers is very common too the sales assistant shouldn't be that surprised 🤔
My Pfaff can sew through multiple layers of leather, but can also perform well on gossamer-thin chiffon. It's good to have a machine that can handle whatever you throw at it.
@@Siansonea yeah that is a good machine. I couldn't afford one but got a basic Viking that was on sale.
@@teresas.3979 I've never owned a Viking, but I think most any sewing machine can do what we need. I learned on an ancient Brother sewing machine from the 60s, which I still have. I haven't used it in years and years though.
My sewing life got a lot easier when I fell in love with wearing natural fibres and vintage styles! Classic blouses and skirts in plain cotton and linen are a dream to work with compared with stretchy, shiny things!
Starch, sometimes a lot of starch, is very useful with fabrics you can press. Jerseys don’t curl anymore and light woven fabrics don’t fray as much, because the starch glues the threads together. But be careful to press the fabric with the grain. Otherwise the sideseam will run across your tummy after the first wash 😵
You know the secret trick!! 😀
Basically, if your fabric wants to curl up in a ball, chances are you will too.
My first sewing project was a pair of pyjama shorts and I used polyester sateen from an old dress. It was quite the baptism of fire
I'm loving this Pandora's box series on fabric!!!
Even as a more "experienced" seamstress (+18 years, at my particular sewing-mishap 😅) one can still go horrible wrong. When choosing & buying the right fabrics/materials.
As my bother got married in July 1995. My mother & I bought our fabric, at our further daughter/sister-in-law's family owned fabric store....in December.
And I choose the most terrible/difficult fabrics.
My basic long dress: was to be made out of "pre-crinkled"
(extremely crinkled during the fabrication in the factory), dark moss green, slippery Chiffon.
It was a nightmare to cut!!! 😫
In the end: I had to tape the fabric to our big dinning room table, to cut out the pattern pieces. 😫
And over that dress I wanted a sheer black see-through floor length coat, made out of Voile.
Which is, next to being soft, an extremely slippery fabric!!!
I can't remember what the cotton and polyester % blend of that Voile was....BUT it was also sheer hell in handling. It slipped & slided through my hands (it was extremely prone to fraying as well 😰). And would not want to stay under the sewing machine foot.
We made our particular dark fabric choice in December, while the wedding took place in the hight of July heatwave Summer.
In the end we both looked stunning.....
BUT....neeeeever again!!! 🤣✌🏻
🤣🤣 We have all made bad fabric choices, and one still will throw you curve ball even with so that experience behind us!
Janet, there are just some fabrics I refuse to work with. 🤣
STARTCH!!!!! For those difficult fabrics that are thin, use spray starch! They become stiff (easy to cut and mark) and non slippery (easier to sew). An amazing and relatively quick fix!
Rubbing two layers of fabric together is genius! I do this when buying lining fabric because there's always one option that's less slippery than others 😅 It's also helpful to estimate how thick two layers are and whether your machine can handle that. I still have some thick wool in my stash that doesn't fit under my machine's foot and has to wait there until my mom can lend me her semi industrial machine (she bought it in the 90s for sewing jeans; I swear that thing can punch its needle through *any* fabric that exists).
I have an old semi automatic but it is so heavy & so I recently bought a newer computer one. It is fine & a lot lighter but I find that I cant 'get away' with as much on this one. I have to use the correct needle & the tension has to be just right whilst my old one I could 'abuse' a bit lol & it would still sew. Also the foot pedal is not a substantial & the leads a lot shorter. I still like it, but the old one I am still keeping.
@@gill8779 My mom says the same thing about her new machine lol! She has to put a rubber mat under the pedal so it doesn't slide around (old machine's pedal doesn't move easily). I hoped to inherit her old machine when she bought the new one, but she's keeping both for now because she switches machines depending on her project's fabrics :) Would do the same honestly! Also, it's nice to have a second machine around in case one of them needs repair :D
I have just had a very vivid memory pop up. As a child, I was taught to place tissue paper between fabric layers when sewing the seams. It behaves as a stabiliser. Then you can just tear the tissue paper out when you’ve completed the seam. ⭐️ I had completely forgotten this technique and haven’t used it for years.
*laughs in the silk georgette I decided to make my first skirt out of* I am so grateful for those little fabric clasps. I would be dying without them
Oh my! You top the choosing difficult fabric f you're the first project!,😂
My worst fabric to sew was an outdoor plastic mesh fabric. It not only was a terrible texture that was hard to feed, it would fray due to size of mesh and would literally cut your skin as it slid through the sewing machine and serger. I made a full 40 foot inground pool cover and a 15 foot round pool cover and was so thrilled to have used up the fabric so I could tell people that I didn't make pool covers any longer.
I will sometimes starch (pretty heavily) and iron a really slippery fabric before cutting and sewing, not only to stabilize it, but to give it some 'tooth' to keep it from slipping past itself during stitching. It's easy to launder the finished garment to remove the starch and restore the lovely drape of the fabric.
I've tried this and it does help!
My most feared fabric is the knit. My mother can whip out a knit outfit any day of the week, on her regular old machine, she doesn't even know you have to do anything special. -- I have yet to try sewing ANY knits because I have heard ALL the horror stories and seen all the wobbly seamed crime scene photos. Cowardice, I know. Slippery, I have done. Thin, slick silk -- got some special sheers and conquered it, no sweat. Velvet -- REAL velvet -- psh, so not a problem that I forgot I've sewn it more than once without having to un-seam and re-seam. But knits --- it gets so quiet, not even the crickets dare chirp.
I did my first knit project (a tank top), used the ballpoint needle, set my machine to the knit cam, and in the end the only thing that saved my sanity was repinning my seams with some tissue paper. Finally I could get the fabric through the machine, and tearing the paper off after is very satisfying!
I starch squirrly fabrics, and spray basting is a godsend.
I love Teflon presser feet. Also, walking foot and knit foot are good.
My now daughter-in-law bought some fabric for me to make junior bridesmaid dresses for her wedding. She thought it was a satin. And it matched the slightly off-white color of her gown perfectly.
Turned out it was a slightly heavier weight stretch satiny fabric. And she wanted a ton of machine embroidery done.
A quick trip to the store I bought my machine from with a scrap of fabric, and the owner and I figured out how to properly stabilize it to do the embroidery.
Thank goodness they turned out perfectly.
Evelyn Wood was my dear late mother’s name. She was a master seamstress and loved figuring out solutions to any challenge.
I started sewing 6months ago . My first project was with a very thin shiny jersey. My second was a reeeeally thick and elastic velvet , my third a really light sheer fabric , i don't remember how to say it in english, but fraying like hell ,a little bit elastic , and my last , the one i'm working on right now (almost finished 💪) is a tight dress made of jersey ,and the edges rolled like crazy ☠️, with a flowy layer on top made of super light and soft elastic mesh 😅
the lady at the fabric store keep telling me i always pick the worst fabric to learn how to sew 😂😂 but i can't help it , they are the most beautiful 😍
I feel you! :D I'm exactly the same. Every time I have my eye on a super pretty fabric, there's a 99% chance that it will also be insanely difficult to sew with - far beyond my skill level at least :D
@@dixiebisquits so true !
I think i'm going to have to live by that and just sew beyond my skill level until i reach it 😂😂😂
I’m someone who works mostly with wovens. Actually- entirely with wovens. As for the fray factor- if you know it’s going to fray, use a larger seam allowance. I personally prefer to mark the sewing line, when possible (I do a lot of hand sewing, and it’s just so much easier), and even with machine seeing, it gives you the perfect line to follow. So I mark the sewing line, and maybe leave a larger seam allowance, that way a bit of extra fraying doesn’t hurt, you just trim it off when you grade your seams to finish them.
One thing I don’t know- is it even possible to hand sew knits?
In short - yes. If you're talking about jersey and similar fabrics then it can be done. just use a lot of pins or basting tape to hold the seams together while you're doing it and try to keep your stitches as small as you can.
In short - yes. If you're talking about jersey and similar fabrics then it can be done. just use a lot of pins or basting tape to hold the seams together while you're doing it and try to keep your stitches as small as you can.
@@somebodyelse138 thanks for that- I have a jersey dress I’ve been wanting to make for a friend, but I’ve been putting it off because I find knots so intimidating. Combine that with the fact that I find sewing machines also intimidating (and also far more painful to use), I tend to hand sew most things these days. Knowing I could hand sew it means I’m far more likely to actually get it done.
It was supposed to be a maternity dress. The baby is now 7 months old 😂. I think I’ll have to change up the design a little.
@@katherinemorelle7115 Congratulations on the wee one. I think most of us had projects we intended to make whilst expecting that ended up on the back burner until it was too late.
On the plus side, you should have a bit of surplus fabric that you can use to practice on. It's always good to have a bit of a practice with some spare fabric before starting on the first project with it.
When I did my first projects with knit jersey I started with some cheap white jersey first. That gave me an idea of what I was working with and where I'd have problems - having worked that out I bought some better quality jersey and between the practice and the better quality fabric pretty much eliminated the problems of the fist try.
Good luck.
so helpful as a beginner especially now thrift stores are opening up again!! 💖
Yay! That's exciting for you and I bet they have a stockpile of treasures waiting for you! 😄
Goodness, it varies. As said, it all depends on the fabric. I’ve found some denims easier than lightweight textured cotton. Viscose can act like it’s the devil’s spawn when cutting, and needs an inordinate number of pins and / or weights to control, plus a military strategy to determine cutting out order! (I’m happy with using these fabrics really!)
I use a small blade rotary cutter for viscose
🤣🤣🤣 Best explanation of rayon ever!
This has just given me the giggles over my frustration. I am busy with one that can only be described like tgis😂
I'll be interested to see how many people report that slippery fabrics are the ones that drive them to madness. I used to feel that way, until a professional pattern designer and seamstress showed me how to sew those fabrics without _any_ pins whatsoever. Mind blown. With a little practice it's faster, easier, less damaging to the fabric and produces nice, neat results. Thanks, Gerry!
Psst hint, hint: could this be worth an episode, if it hasn't already been covered?
So what's the trick?
I'm guessing alot! 🤔😅
Aren't you going to share your secret with us? 🙂
@@Hodgepodge31 It would be much easier to demonstrate than explain, but I'll give it a go: rather than force the two pieces of fabric completely together, in several places, using pins (or clips), guesstimating the relative placement between each pin beforehand, instead allow the pieces to meet only when they pass under the needle. So, hold the two pieces, independently, and mind their seam allowances as you sew. In this way, the only location the two can possibly be joined is on the intended seam line. In the absence of all those pins, and with free movement, it's unlikely for one to experience uneven seams and such.
My experience is that, due to the very light tension and continuous flow, it reduces the incidence of unintended understitching. But, that may just be me.
Obviously, this technique is not appropriate for situations where one of pieces is _intended_ to be distorted (even if only slightly), such as when setting in a sleeve. That said, it is still possible to gather, using a gathering or walking foot and/or differential feed ... but that's a topic unto itself.
Hope that helps.
@@odetteboudreau5970 lol. Not a secret - just a slightly different way of viewing the process of stitching. It's more of a change in perspective than anything new. Rather than join the pieces twice, once with pins (which _feels_ good, but is actually a little bit inaccurate and stiff) and then again with stitches, guide the two pieces separately to join them neatly in one go. It might seem counterintuitive, but with some practice, it works surprisingly well. Or, at least it surprised me. I included a slightly longer description - also in this thread.
Ah, this brings back memories. About a month after I'd gotten my sewing machine and began to learn to sew, my local fabric store had a sale. I picked out a lovely light blue and white floral *rayon and spandex knit* and happily showed it off to my sister, who had been sewing for some time. I will never forget the tone of her voice: "Why in the world did you pick that lightweight stretchy knit? Oh hell no- I don't even bother with knits". As a result, I threw that fabric to the bottom of my basket and didn't touch it for over a year 🤣🤣🤣😫
Hi Evelyn, have reached the conclusion that I must be avoiding almost all fabrics altogether ! Thanks for your guide here, helpful.
Cotton, cotton blends and linen are good natural cloth that breathe, easily sewn.
😀 I hope you'll try something new!!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. It would be great if you made a video (or series 😉) on how to work with difficult fabrics.
Thank you :) While cooking for my family, I get to listen and half-watch your videos. Feels less like work and I learn!
I had the sheerest chiffon material draped on my dress form for months because I was terrified of sewing it and had no idea had to handle it in the machine!
I just ended up hand sewing a lot of it, more work but it’s not so stressful and it’s finally moving along :)
Hand sewing! Wow, that is hard work.
I agree, somethings are so delicate that it's safer to hand stitch. From my understanding, kimonos are hand stitched.
@@teresas.3979 Time consuming, but safer when in doubt. Tack by hand the spacing and then sew together works for me rather than repeat seam ripping out a mess.
I made my own wedding dress, satin overlayed with lace. I was used to making my own clothes but using a manual Singer and never anything that fancy. I was away from home & my friend lent me her electric machine, I was so terrified of the machine chewing up the lace that I resorted to hand sewing much of it.
Yay!!! You've got this!! 😀😀
Not a fabric nightmare story..more of a silly mistake story. I purchased a gorgeous olive floral bedshert in a thrift shop. I am in love w/ the print, wh/ screams 1930's or 40's to me. I carefully cut out a wrap dress pattern that is very much like a Hooverette. After sewing the bodice together I noticed there was a two inch square of fabric "missing" extending from the waist seam up. Before Evelyn Wood, I would have abandoned the project. But, no...fabric is precious. I cut out a patch and mended it in, matching the fabric perfectly. It still shows, but, make do. Today I stopped in the same shop and found the matching sheet to the set. Now I can make a belt to cover the visible mend. I think that makes me Fashion Revolution foot soldier! TY....you are my inspiration.
One of the first garments I tried to sew on my machine was a simple dolman sleeve top. Unfortunately I was using material bought by my grandmother in the 70's. A shiny, slinky, slippery, knit nylon meant for a robe. Cutting out the pieces was hard and then my machine kept eating the fabric. It was worse than a nightmare.
Yuk. At least you didn't let it sour your taste of sewing, it's not all like that! 😄
I remember the first time I made a white skirt and the material was very flowy but also slippery. It was very hard lol.
Any material that has a lot of slip I dread XD
I know right, especially on a super smooth table too, we stand no chance of not getting frustrated!
@@Evelyn__Wood you’ve just given me an idea! I’m going to replicate a billiards table - lay felt on my table and then place my fabric over that. I’m hoping the felt will hold the fabric still.
I’ve been sewing for many years but only recently dared to attempt a knit/jersey type fabric. I watched some videos on how to work with it and it actually turned out great!
Wow- at 71 (pre-synthetics) I just learned why I started to hate sewing and quit in my 20's! Silk was difficult because of the 'slip', velvet was difficult because of the pile, cotton and wool were simple, just be aware of stripes and plaids. That was about it. No synthetics then. I remember hating polyester and stopped making clothes. But now I understand - THANK YOU so much!
I am new to sewing. You are very good at explaining what you what you want explain
Hej from Sweden
I'm intrigued by the top you're wearing in this video! Do you ever do a "show and tell" video about the garments you make for your personal use? You wear so many lovely clothes
Try watching the episode: ruclips.net/video/qRiZ3eRpSd8/видео.html
Knitted fabrics are my nemesis. Voile is easy in comparison.
I sewed a skirt last week using a stretch satin and was surprised to find it was very easy to work with. Just didn’t press very well but the end result was still great!
Suggested video....how do you pre wash your fabric and garments...especially the vintage stuff. Also, tips on removing stains from vintage fabric/garments. Thanks for EVERYTHING!
Thanks for the suggestions!
I wish I would have known all of this when I started to sew. Thank you so much for sharing your talent.
Oh cool, you do have a video on washing certain fabrics before cutting. I was given a lot of vintage fabrics that are difficult. That's why they are still packed in containers!
Make sure they are machine washable first.
Then if they are vintage, I would probably use a very gentle detergent (like you would use for baby garments). And more than likely cool water. Then a low dryer setting.
Good luck.
STARCH:
1. Fill a spray bottle with warm tab water, put in half a teaspoon of cornstarch and shake until the cornstarch has dissolved.
2. Let it cool.
3. Spray on the fabric and it will be stiffer.
Stop Fray liquid called Stop Fray that helps prevent fraying. Let it dry before sewing. Then hand sew. My machine eats up ( pulls into the feed dog) the thin stuff. Sometimes you just have to hand sew. It's not evil, just time consuming, however easier than fighting with machine and shredding material. Thin is delicate.
Thank you for this video. I always have problems with buying new fabrics for clothes. I will buy fabrics that when sown does not look good like what I imagined. It is way more easier to use thrifted clothes. Now I know why. Those retail stores usually uses easy to show fabrics lol.
Yep!!👍🏻
I decided to make my son a dressing gown from a vintage 1930s pattern. Spent way too much money on a lovely wool fabric. Didn't realize how bulky it would be on seams, hems, and cuffs. By the end it could almost stand up by itself!
I do have an Edwardian sewing manual that recommends pinning slippery fabric to brown paper before sewing it together and then carefully pulling it away, before French seaming it. I'm still not brave enough to give it a go, but it does make sense
I don't know why everyone has such a problem with knit fabric. 😂 I love it and rarely have a problem with it, except maybe spandex. It doesn't fray, if it does curl I just cut the seam wider. Pressing helps with the curl but a good quality knit doesn't curl. I used a straight stitch most of the time and only used a reinforced stitch around the crotch or with fabric that need to stretch a lot, like swimsuit or leggings. I actually find it easier than woven as you can ease the fabric around bends and sleeves etc. Woven fabric sends me batty with all the seam finishing. But, to each their own.
I've been working with a silk brocade fabric: the finished garment is stunning, but my oh my was it slippery to work with !
I love your videos. They are so calming, useful, and you have a lovely demeanour 🥰
Evelyn, great summary about the difficulties and easiness of different fabric types. But, I strongly suggest that you revisit the walking foot that came with your machine. Marcy Tilton advised me, when I was struggling with a knit that just wouldn't sit still, that she had always had good luck using a walking foot in such a situation. I tried it, and it worked so well that I've never looked back. A walking foot will keep both layers of fabric moving together without distortion. My experience is that it works beautifully, and if you have to buy one separately from your machine, it's totally worth it.
Thanks for your wonderful videos!
I'm always so happy to get the Saturday video, I always look forward to it. I'm going to watch it again later just to review, so much useful information. Thank-you .
Great overview, and I learned a lot about knits! I was surprised that velvets and one-way fabrics (whether by nap or by pattern) didn't get a mention, since it makes patterning that much more difficult. That, and I've yet to meet a velvet that didn't want to squirm around, at least a little.
So helpful!!! So true!
I wish I knew about this channel, when I was starting. It would help me a lot for confidence and a great boost!
Love it now, thought.
And I appreciate sooo much that you are doing this! ❤❤❤
So many things to learn. 😊😊😊😊
Thank you Evelyn!❤❤❤
I like those easy knits!
You and your videos are so great- thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and helping so many to sew!
This video makes me feel a bit called out! 😅
I've had this lovely green viscose fabric in my stash for months and it would make a wonderful swoosh-y dress, but I'm very intimidated by the stretchiness of it.
I don't know if that could help , but just go for it 💪 i started sewing only 6 months ago, made 4 garments , they were ALL stretchy ☠️😂😂 i cryed a lot on the first one (i had a children sewing machine on top of that 😂) but even then it turned out ok ! Now i still hate myself for choosing elastic fabric but i know what i'm stepping into 😂 (bonus advice from a rookie : don't try to muscle your way into it , if things don't align don't pull on it and think it's going to be fine , it's not going to 👀☠️ 😂😂😂😂)
@@carabbeanblablomst The first time I sewed anything I tried using stretchy velvet and it was a MESS, so I prefer non-stretchy when I can. I just need to be less afraid and get on with it. 😅
@@MiffoKarin it was my 2nd ! (my first was a super thin shiny jersey ☠️) Stretchy super thick velvet 😂 it was hell ☠️😂😂😂
I understand . To be true i haven't yet worked with something that's not stretchy at all 😂 i'm bet it's a dream ! 🤯
But yeah, for me it's best to just dive into it if i'm scared because if i wait to long i loose my motivation , not only for sewing but anything really 🤔
Thanks so much for your video's Evelyn! I'm also a fellow Aussie sewist and I love your channel ;)
All of my favourite fabrics to sew are "difficult" ones because they're so drapey but I always have success when cutting out my pieces using a rotary cutter, self healing mat and lots of weights. I've been sewing for 30+years but only started using a rotary cutter setup within the last couple of years and I can't believe how I lived without them!
(I reckon I have most of Spotlights Rayon collection...other Aussie sewists should know what I'm referring to...lol)
Found your channel yesterday and have already learnt so much! Such great videos😊
Bonded fabric! And knits! Omg I wish I'd watched this video before I bought fabrix
A lot of very useful knowledge here! ... Thank you 🌺
Evelyn, good info for new sewers. I solve the problem of is fabric going to be difficult. I never buy challis, chiffon, many silks, any fabric that has excessive stretch, most man made fabric. Rayons are ok if they are good quality. Cottons knits can be ok if the quality is good. I like woven person, cottons, linens, wools, and will buy linen and cotton fabric, but linen and polyester-NO. I would recommend to beginner to stick with wovens and buy the best quality you can afford, because you are putting your valuable time to sew.
Linen is fantastic to work with. It takes marking well and stays in place and isn’t slippery when cut. I know it frays, but there are plenty of invisible or interesting seam treatments. Oh yes, it creases, but that can be an advantage, depending on the pattern.
A simple summer shift dress or shorts in pure Linen always looks fantastic.
I started on cheap jersey knit. Mostly making for kids. It worked out well as they didn’t care if something was off and most people couldn’t tell cause children don’t stay still. The kids thought I was amazing which is a big plus considering half the time I had no real idea of what I was doing!!! Oh and when you can’t get the hem flat little girls like that lettuce look!! So make it extra wavy!
@@carolmichell4860 I love linen & sew it most of the time.
Fabulous Content AS ALWAYS!!!! I wish I had known this forever vorever ago. I Learned the Hard way...
As always, fantastic video!
My nightmare was a velvet stretch. ..I did a whole dress with it...never again! 😱
You should have used a walking foot. Nightmare no more. And don't pull the fabric along either.
@@johanna5688 Thank you so much for the tips! 🤗 👍
This little course as very helpful.thanks for taking the time to teach us tricks easy to remember.
textured fabrics such as velvet can also be very difficult to sew
Yes!! As pressing is also a nightmare!!
This is when you use the walking foot.
I'm only a beginner and I've set about making an entire dress in crinkle chiffon 🤦🏻♀️ I blame the bargain section of the fabric store. I'm relying on my tape measure and a million pins to keep it well behaved. Slow and steady.
I guess it is a sign from above......one hour before finding your latest video I received a delivery of a used book I had ordered called "Fabric Savvy". I need to better understand this topic. Let the sewing of cotton....and occasionally something more difficult......begin! Just kidding. These two resources will guide me through. Thank you for all of your videos.
Love you videos. Thank you so very much. Wondering if you have a video on how to stabilize a slippery fabric?
Karina (Lifting pins and needles) has a fantastic video for handling slippery/sheer fabrics which may help 😊
@@rhonddalesley Thank you!
Very informative video! Thank you.
Test! If I think the fabric is going to be difficult, I buy a little extra so I can test...figure out which needle, presser foot (don't forget about the walking foot), practice straight and curved stitching.
Do you have videos on how to sew on these difficult fabrics
I might have to make one!
Don't forget to mention the 'invisible' qualities of fabrics. Like the first time I used something other than cotton. I chose crepe, not a stretch fabric but will stretch enough to distort the pattern when not handled properly and was so difficult to mark (I couldn't get any marks to stay which made the sewing even more difficult!)
I use fake leather pretty regularly for purses/bags.
The latest batch I bought turned out to be totally impossible to sew in despite seeming no different to previous batches, that while difficult to work with it was still possible.
I would appreciate any advice on working with "pleather". My daughter wants a pair of pants and a skirt made from pleather because it is "in fashion". I have a very basic sewing machine (and matching skills😅) and have tried to convince her that you need special equipment, but she believes I can, purely because my Gran, who taught me what I know) could do just about anything.
WARNING: I ramble! If you want to "cut to the chase/point" of how I cope with Fraying, Slipperiness or Curling, then scroll down to the * at the start of the next paragraph. I do remember being taught about the complexities about the different fabrics, and we were shown samples of about 20 fabrics to feel, scrunch and slip. It was done in only one class session (50 to 60 mins) and not referred back to in any great degree in successive classes. It was a lot to take in and retain all at once, and have thought maybe it should have been done on a "We're going to learn about this fabric today, and here's a swatch to keep" type of format. I have to admit that only by actually sewing with a fabric would I truly learn about handling it in my "hard drive". I think that goes with all things - practice make perfect. Fast forward 30 years, and I have met brides-to-be at a fabric shop to discuss patterns/styles (after having them go and actually try on a heap of wedding gowns to get a feel for how the style suits their body as well as how comfortable each style is, and get an idea of what they do want and don't want in a gown). Once the pattern has been chosen, then we proceed onto the fabric types (according to the suggestions on the pattern envelope) and colours being set next to each other (or overlaid as the case may be) for aesthetic approval. I generally would allow a whole day for this in total, according to time availability, as I want her to be happy with her choices. The usual comments are along the lines of - "I feel like I'm back in school", "I didn't know there was so much to learn". Once the fabric has been cut and purchased, we part ways for about a week so I can pre-wash/shrink and press the fabrics (lace gets sprayed with water and pressed under a cloth, otherwise it's a nightmare to get every little edge and point flat again). There was one time where there was too much fabric to fit in my machine (multi-layered and gathered skirt), so I found a Dry Cleaner who could wash it in their big machines for me - they insisted that I neaten the cut edges first, which was insightful of them! Now for the next step.
* If a fabric is slippery, will fray easily, or edges curl; I will cut them out and immediately paint the edges with a (diluted to directions) liquid fabric stabiliser (I use "Sew Stable") and let them dry (2-3 hours). This is then removed by washing the garment later on. This immediately prevents the fraying and curling, and minimises the slippage. Where a sheer is placed directly over an opaque fabric in panels (like a bodice), I will position them likewise and use the fabric stabiliser as a glue to hold the layers together - no more wrinkled overlays! Once the bodice is ready to be attached to the skirt, it goes for a gentle hand wash to remove the stabliser - and no-one is the wiser if I don't want them to be! This stabiliser is also good on stretchy knits that curl on cut edges - I used it when I made my girls' swim suits between the ages of 5 and 14 years. I diluted the stabliser more than for other non knitted fabrics. Actually, I found it immensely helpful when using my Coverstitch machine - which is what factories use to hem knit fabric garments on cuffs, necklines and hems. The stabiliser helps control the fabric from curling inside the twin stitching lines as it's being stitched - which has a two-fold benefit: 1- that your stitching looks much neater with less effort, and 2- "Tunneling" is greatly reduced. To understand what tunneling is, go and get some items of clothing with coverstitching on it (I don't know anyone that doesn't have something) - t-shirts, leggings, sportswear, etc. Grip the cuff or hem stitching between both hands 2-3 "/5-8cm apart, stretch the stitching and then release. IF there is a visible ridge left between the lines of stitching, that is "Tunneling". Most of the time, this can simply be smoothed out, and is considered only mild. Sometimes, smoothing out the fabric doesn't erase the tunneling altogether, and you get the feeling that the stitching is actually holding back on the stretch-ability of the fabric - which it IS. This is severe tunneling. Don't buy garments with severe tunneling, the stitching WILL eventually break, long before the garment becomes worn out, only it will LOOK worn out. This garment was made for a "cheap and nasty market". No tunneling? Very lucky! I have found over the years that "Woolly Nylon" used in the loopers of overlockers and coverstitch machines seems to add to the tunneling effect: that factories that use ALL cotton threads - for both the straight stitches as well as the loopers don't have too much tunneling going on at all. The mild tunneling is down to the general tension on all the threads, that is why it can be smoothed out. Wooly nylon is a stretchy thread that when under even a little tension, has no more give to allow it to be smoothed out, so the hem then relies on the cotton straight stitching to allow for smoothing out. This is my observation spanning many years with ready-made clothing. Let it be said that domestic coverstitch machines are not up to the same standard as commercial ones, hence the tunneling effect is a little more pronounced. I have ditched all my woolly nylon threads in favour of cotton, and I use the fabric stabliser to prevent the curling of the knit fabric when hemming; this gives me excellent hems in low to medium stretch knits (better than most cheap garments!), and mild tunneling that can be smoothed out with high stretch knits.
I just made a man's waistcoat with a fairly heavy, loose weave textured cotton. I had to wash it twice to stop it sagging. The only way I could sew it was by overlocking the edges before I started sewing because it frayed while you looked at it. Since it was a basic shape I could get away with it. The lining was a plain cotton so I didn't have to worry about that. The hardest part were the pocket flaps. I did these in a contrasting fabric that was easier to work with. The finished product was great but the fabric was a nightmare.
I sew a dress with this smooth, light rayon and that was my first dress ever. It was indeed hard but the effect is not bad. The worst part is the zipper that is waving because the material is too thin (I think I sewed the zipper in correctly). Nevertheless your video is very helpful, thank you!
In order to avoid a wavy looking zip is quite simple. You have to first interface the dress seam where the zip is to go into. Then you sew the zip in. Your fabric needed some stabiliser there to keep it firm & with smooth finish. Try it next time.
@@johanna5688 thank you for this advice :)
How about tips- I have my first chiffon project on the list!!! 😱 I’m wanting more modest, yet still lovely cloths- but for those there’s usually riffles and drapey fabric so it’s not just a moo moo. I’m excited but also intimidated!!!
Could you do a video about another type of difficult fabrics? for example, synthetic furs, stretch fabrics that have a polyurethane coating to make them look shiny and shimmery . I tried sewing one of those and I had to abandon the project, the needle could get trapped by the sticky polyurethane and the loop would not be completed underneath and it would bunch and jam the machine. The result would have looked nice, it would have draped nicely but it was a nightmare to sew. How about sewing thick and tough material, how much can a home sewing machine take? Could you also talk about machine maintenance, if you didn't talk about it already (new tho this channel). Thank you.
Velvet, valure and corduroy are very difficult to sew in my experience.
Try using a walking foot.
Best channel. Best intro. Best content by the best ytube teacher. I love you!❤️🔥🍎❤️🔥
Hello dear Evelyn, first must say I’ve just found your channel and I’m loving it so much! 🙏🏼 I have a question though, are costume designers and costume makers the same? Are their job discretions the same? What exactly does a costume maker do? Thanks a bunch 🙏🏼
I recently made a gored skirt out of jersey knit. When I tried to press the seams open it was just not happening. I ended up top stitching next to each seam (there were six of them). It ended up looking nice and everything turned out OK but it was a bit of a pain and more work. And thread!
please make us a video about how to deal with those fabrics cutting and marking them I really want to know
Velvet - gorgeous, but nightmarish to sew! Drapey, slippery, and nappy all in one.
I overcame my dislike of velvet back when I made a velvet patchwork quilt for my teenage goth son. We collected the fabric from thrift stores & it came in all thicknesses/squirrelyness. Once I'd completed the quilt I realized that although it''s not my favourite fabric I no longer need to deliberately avoid it.
I work with silk velvet all the time. The only answer is to make sure your pieces are well pinned together so they don’t ‘walk’ at different paces as you sew.
I loved this video .I have learned so much since I started watching your videos ,,,I have been looking through to see if you have made one on the correct type of thread for different fabrics or is there an all purpose thread ?
My nightmare fabric was a crushed velvet dress with crushed velvet appliques!
I once sewed a beautiful heavy laced, knee-length dress. I made the separate lining for it. It looked gorgeous - at first. When I tried it on a few days later, the heavy lace dress lengthened by almost 9 or 10cms longer than the lining. I looked into my mirror with horror. Someone said I should have hung the heavy lace fabric for a few days first, before cutting it out. Or is it better to hang individual lengths for the different pieces of fabric before actually cutting out the dress pieces? Is the lace fabric folded in half lengthways? Or would you hang the pieces with those pants hangers with the clips, just clipping fabric pieces from one end of the fabric with the length hanging down?
I've only used jersey for a back pack and I stabilised it the. Cut it
I absolutely hate the curl of jerseys. Unfortunately even those which don't curl up almost immediately after cutting will do it if left alone for a couple of days (which often happens to my sewing, since I tend to figure out patterns as I go and have to do testing in the meantime). And it's impossible to iron out. Not to mention that the same or worse happens after washing, since the selvage can shrink a different amount than the main fabric and it all gets wonky. I remember when I spend probably around 2 hours trying to cut two basic rectangles for a gathered skirt, because fter prewashing the grain line wasn't where I had expected it to be anymore... (Mind you, this wasn't the cheapest fabric!) I'll try the spray starch trick if I can find this sort of starch anywhere.
This being said, I love wearing jerseys, I love the drape and softness and stretch. And aside from the curling, I actually like sewing them too, because I know that even if the pattern isn't perfect, it's still going to fit well enough, which takes a lot of weight off my shoulders!
There was this other thing you mentioned - fibers of the fabric getting pushed by the needle inside the machine. This is TOTAL HELL. With anything more lightweight, I can't start my seams at the edge of the fabric where they should start because this will always happen. And I've no idea how to remedy this. Water-soluble interfacing, maybe? If only I could find something like this in this country...
Regarding the slipperiness and fibers moving while cutting - this I where the rotary cutter is my saviour. These kinds of fabric still want to move under the blade, especially if cutting more than one layer at once, but it's usually enough to gently hold it with the other hand behind the blade to prevent this from happening. 100% recommend!
Have you heard of wash out basting tape? I've recently completed the sewing of a few t-shirts (including 1 each for my 2 g'daughters) and the seaming was so much easier when I swapped pins for basting tape and no getting my edges sucked into the machine.
@@somebodyelse138 Thanks for the tip!
Thanks for this information! 🥰. For slinky fabrics I usually will starch it to death til it becomes almost like a cotton. Then it’s easier to handle. However when I sew the side seams, matching all the notches, when it hangs it tends to look like the side seams are pulling.🤷♀️… what am I doing wrong?.
Good morning, Ms. Qood and fellow friends who sew: if drapey fabrics are harder to cut, is it easier to cut them with a rotary cutter versus shears/scissors since the rotary cutter keeps the fabric down and not lifted up as when using shears? Thanks in advance.
Just completed a mask to match my granddaughter s prom dress in pale green chiffon. Slipping and sliding all over the place! Never again
Hahaha, I'm going to make an Elizabethan dress, with a French farthingale, useing satin silk. I think ill be doing a lot of hand basting. It's going to be a lot of fun. Hahaha
Yes!! I forsee🔮a lot of handbasting in your future. 😉😁
Silk is slippery.
@@susanpendell4215 that's why I put the laughing on my post. I've worked with silk before so I'm not a novice. I'll be working with about 10 yards and that will be new to me.
@@breeinatree4811 Can I ask do you use a hemming foot with your silk for the hems?. I am going to make a silk dress & dreading the hemming.
@@gill8779 if I had a hemming foot I would use it, going slow. I would hand bast it first before sewing. As it is, i hand bast then hand see everything. I've sewn floaty and slippery fabric quite a bit. These are the rudest materials there are. Always hand baste, especially sleeves, it may seem like the longest way to do things. But it saves in having to tear things out and redo them. Most rude fabrics don't take well to being torn out and be resewn
Such a helpful video. Could you please also do a video on the pros and cons of setting sleeves in vs sewing flat? I know how both methods are done but can't seem to find if the results of one method are better than the other.
I think it’s a case of personal choice for the most part, as long as the sleeves fit and look good I’m not sure it matters which way you choose to put them in. I was taught old school to set them in and haven’t tried sewing them in on the flat even though it looks like it could make life easier sometimes, maybe there’s some kind of logic behind using each method in particular circumstances because some pattern instructions do specify but I don’t know what it is and I’m going to check it out 😊
@@rhonddalesley Thank you for explaining! But just curious do you happen to know how you would "ease in" the sleeve if sewing flatly? I've been setting them in too but wanting to try the other method aswell!
I tried to do an inset sleeve for the first time, and it was rough. It was an inset sleeve/sewn in after side and shoulder seems we’re together. What kept stumping me was how easing stitches help. There are probably more uses for easing stitches than just this. Can you go over how to use them. I get that they gather the fabric down to get it to the same size as the smaller piece, but then it’s all wrinkled, and I don’t want my sleeve to have that gathered look.
Seek out SureFitDesigns and check out Glenda's video for inserting an inset sleeve. I really struggled with this 'til I watched the way she did it and it's really made a difference.
Thanks for this video. What kind of tool do you use for marking on the wiggly fabric?
How can we know how to set up the needle on our fabric machine? For all of those type of fabrics. Thank you!
I have videos on that, you can search my channel!
Ah, ok. I’m new here but I will search. Thank you! I appreciate all your videos because are a very inspiring and motivated for us!
For me chiffon and velvet makes me stressed.
Velvet and other difficult fabrics are easily sewn with a walking foot.
You ought to check out @Sew Yeah in Las Vegas!! They have an awesome channel here on RUclips, Facebook and Instagram!! They have a destash night on Saturdays!! Great quality fabric , low cost!! They are wanting to do collabs this year!! They have a special episode every month called will it sew!! Anything goes lol!! They have some beautiful quilt patterns!! They have awesome prices!! A collab with you would be awesome!!