Ok first of all this is my kinda information. I’m a student of the game of archery and watch a lot of videos. This is the first set of videos that goes this far into detail and I love it. Good stuff
Hallo Hanno ,thank you so much for your tuning video, I followed you instructions for my PSE EVO EVL 34 . I left the higher deflection limb on the top to the left but flipped the roller guard and shimmed left for that tear and some yoke twists and now both cams align exactly to the center of the D loop. And I'm just doing bare shaft and fletched tuning on the walk back but having amazing results so far, so much more forgiving. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge 🙏. Best regards Mac
I have worked all day on my Supra RTX 37 left tear. I shimmed.30 thousand of left side to right. Went from a boo doodle rest to a QAD. BACK TO DOODLE. rest is at 13/16 center shot. Went from 100 gr to 85 point still left tear bare shaft and fletched. Going do limb swap tomorrow. Hope I’m on right track. Previous pro shop owner. I’m a tuning fanatic. Enjoyed your video
Awesome info mate. I’m in Australia I have a Pse bow madness unleashed and experienced the same. After being told there’s not much I can do but move the rest I can’t wait to play with what you said. Thanks so much for your info and time.
Every "pro" shop in Australia says the same thing, sorry mate there's nothing we can do, you could go to the biggest pro shop in Australia and ask if they could tie a d loop and you would get the same response. I can't help but laugh when they say take your bow to your local pro shop to get certain things done maybe in the USA but if you want work done on bow here the last place you take it is to the shop special the one you bought it from.
It's lovely to see such a nice guy sharing his information with everyone online as well as taking the time to answer each and every comment that people are making. Well done for that and your great knowledge. Not disagreeing that sometimes extreme measures like this are absolutely necessary but, I will say that before going into this sort of high level tinkering new Archers or even old ones that know enough would be well advised to check the simple stuff first. Here in Australia we are unlucky in that there are few if any decent bow shop Tech's which means that we Aussie's have to learn for ourselves. Here's what I learned: K.I.S.S. (keep it simple stupid). A great resource for those like me that didn't want to tear their bow apart is The Ranch Fairy Channel. He like this wonderful RUclipsr does his level best to help by sharing knowledge as follows: 1. A fair amount of the time it's the arrow, not the bow. Badly weighted, wrong spine, wrong tip, etc etc can cause huge tears in many directions. 2. Maybe just maybe it's you (bad grip, terrible posture, overdraw, under draw, face pressure there's a bunch of reasons right there for your terrible tear. Hope this helps a lot of you before you go down the rabbit hole of needless complexity. 😁.
Thanks a lot man, I truly agree with you in that regard, the simpler you keep it, the less can go wrong. I only dive into the more extreme stuff when all the simple trick are ticked off. Process of elimination can sometimes take up a lot of time, but at least you know everything is spot on then 🤙🏻
@@HannoDeKlerkArchery so very true lol. I just read through my comment and realized that my phone had spell corrected my English to make it completely illegible lol. My apologies, English is my first language and I have no excuses lol.
Followed your advice and changed the spacers on the cams. This caused the cam to lean and the draw stop to miss the cable. I now have a pse evo nxt at full draw that wont let down thanks mate.
Yes got a ratchet strap round the limbs and got it to the shop with no damage as far as I can see. Not had chance to shoot it again yet but it's back to the drawing board to try to get rid of this right tear.
HANNO! 🙏🏼 Been chasing my EVO NXT 31 tuning for over a month. Did the limb swap and shot through paper 6-20 feet and boom bullets with multiple releases. Going to finish the tune this weekend. I’ll give an update.
Wondering what you did with the shims after you changed limbs? Did you re-center the cams with the shims after that? There is a spot where the cams lean too much or are not in a spot that hits the cable stops and rotates past, very sketchy..I'm putting a new string on my Carbon Stealth and am going to try your advice with the limbs and start with centered cams. Good video!
Hello Hanno, I purchased a PSE Carbon Air last spring. I brought it home to set it up, and the only way I could get a bullet hole bare shaft ended up with my arrow rest so far to the left that the arrow stuck out like the old recurve set ups! The arrow rest mfgr. said "man, something's wrong with your bow, you need to take it to a pro shop"! So I did. I was floored when they non nonchalantly stated, "oh, it needs shimmed"! They would not tell me exactly what they did, nor would they let me watch them do it, or answer any of my probing questions. But the reason I'm writing is to ask you, how or where did you learn all this stuff about limb swapping and shimming? I totally understand what you were trying to achieve, but I'd prefer not to learn what the outcome of each modification produces by trial and error, and would rather study examples and what mods were made to correct each of these conditions. Does such information exist to your knowledge? I know PSE offers a "bow tech" class, but it is for employees of PSE pro shops. Is there anything out there for the general public.....that wants to know more? Thanks and keep up the phenomenal videos!!
Hi Ed 🏹 I hope your bow is sorted now. My process is a complex mixture of trail and error with prior experience of tuning all sorts of bows, especially if you want it to run the arrow down the middle of the bow. I made a few logical assumptions, tore the bow apart, put it back together and shot it to see if I was wrong or right. We have been in contact with guys at the factory and they couldn’t provide us with a process to run through for specific problems. It’s the main reason why I made this video. We have used this same process on 4 different pse models over 4 different archers, and on all of them we had successful tunes. I think the main reason why there is no hard copy to follow is that it may differ because of the vast amount of variables in the system, and also to protect the shops in some sort of way 🤷🏻♂️
Hi Hanna, Steve here ex Cape Town now in Nz. I bought a PSE DNA bow 2013. I would like to set it up correctly .. could you recommend some document or video I could watch to see how to adjust everything !! Thanks Steve
My evo had a bad limb and pse rebuilt it and ever since i got it back it has refused to tune! Constant left tear that we have been battling for a year! Time to try swapping limbs!
Hey mate great vid I have the opposite problem with right tear how does the cable gaurd affect the tear IE more tension or less tension needed Cheers KIM
on my PSE drive NXT, the limbs were setup like you changed them directly from the factory. Weak limbs on the left, stiff limbs on the right. I have a right handed bow also. The weird thing on mine is that the upper limbs are stronger then the lower limbs. I think the weaker upper limb is as stiff as the lower stiffer one .... Ther secrets of compounds bows :)
Did you try to remove or change the position of back stabilizer, stabilizers can give you a really difficult to fix tear. I am pretty sure that to fix left tear usually you need to decrease tension on the cables, it means to move cable guard in
Yes, I shot the bow with and without the back bar setup to see if there is a difference through the paper but had no luck. The bow is well-balanced without a stabilizer setup, so I just use the back bar to low the centre weight of gravity and to bring the bow upright at full draw 🏹 I have had encounters in the past that I could manipulate the paper tuning with a sidebar.
Excellent video, I have the NTN and I am experiencing a right tear, I also adjusted spine, draw weight, centre shot, foc, going to a friends house to tackle this project. Did you just move the spacers or did you have to add shims as well.
Hi Hanno De Klerk, my PSE Lazer is lauching the arrows drift to the right no matter how much I move the rest to the left. I don’t have any idea what’s the problem. Can you tell me some hints?
I would suggest shimming your cams, it will be a good start. To get rid of the tail left, move your cams to the left. If that doesn't work, we need to look at the deflections of your limbs 🏹 I would first start shimming the bottom cam, and then the top cam 👍🏻
All well and good. But paper tuning only shows what the arrow is doing at that specific distance. Have you tried with the paper further or closer distance to see the results? Are you checking cam lean at rest or full draw? Personally i went through alot of what you did on my evolve35 hunting a bullet hole, found it then immediately lost it when i tuned for distance.
All well and good what you say too. But throw a decent fixed blade Broadhead on with a 1inch tail left tear and you can’t rectify by moving rest position. I know people can be over particular with bullet holes. I actually shoot broadheads then if there is a problem shoot through paper to help resolve the issue. The test is up close to paper because that is where broadheads will resist the fletchings and determine impact. At the end I just want my arrows all grouping together and this video is what is needed sometimes.
Yes I have tuned at a distance as well before all these other methods were done. I had terrible arrow flight, and it will be obvious because it wasn't even tuned for up close. After the cam shim and lean and limb swop, I got it to tune up close which sorted out my arrow flight. I tuned it again at a distance and it gave me a perfect tear too. My fixed blades also group with field points again without making any additional adjustments to my rest. You may want to play with the role guard angle when tuning at a distance as that will refine you initial up close tune. Cam lean is checked at rest because it is at that position where the arrow leaves the bow 🏹
@@ccleadge you are right, I didn't mention it, but it is a good checkpoint to have during the tuning process, especially if you are going to shoot fixed blades
I have noticed on some of Dudley’s videos he has his arrow 90 degrees to the string but it looks like he is running above the Berger holes. What is your arrow height in relation to the Berger holes?
I ran mine through the middle of the berger hole and also with the bottom of the arrow in the middle of the berger hole and also just above. It didn’t seem to make much of a difference. I like running the stuff through the middle. Most of the time it works pretty great 💪🏻
Hanno De Klerk nice! I do the same thing, but I figured I’d ask before I got started setting it up. I got the NTN version (sweet deal I couldn’t pass up) but it’s basically the same bow so figured tuning will be identical. Thank you for the info!
Wonder if you can give me a few reasons my arrow flight is corkscrewing in a counterclockwise direction. Hoyt helix. 70#, 340 spine, 100 grain broadhead. Field tips have way smaller corkscrew...barely affects flight. Bow shop tech could not fix this issue for me. Any help would be much appreciated. Thank you
@@HannoDeKlerkArchery I did realize something today while looking at my bow...the string is offset to the left of center, due to the cams. They are left of center in the limbs. Im going to try twist yokes to bring upper cam back to vertical and move rest more to the left...will see how that works out. Still wondering though, have you had arrows shoot in a corkscrew before? If so, what was cause? Thank you🤙🏾
The higher numbers where on the right both top and bottom and the cams where shimmed to the left. And both limbs deflected evenly. When I shimmed the cams slightly to the right the right limbs with the higher numbers deflected tonnes more. I guessed that means on my bow the high numbered limbs are weaker.
Since PSE is restructuring... They should throw money at you until you are in charge of street level relations with customers. You are hands down one of my favorite parts of owning an PSE NXT.
Haha I highly doubt that they would do that, but helping others shooting better is the main goal, our equipment should work flawlessly so that we can focus on ourselves ⚡️
hello, i keep getting a tail right tear on my evo xf 30 pse bow. Ive moved my arrow rest as far left as it can go trying to chase the tear but now i'm out of adjustment on my arrow rest. what do you recommend first?
Set it up first, maybe you do not need to go through this exact same process. All these issues may just be the way I grip the bow, or maybe it’s the bow itself. This is just some additional info if cannot get it tuned with the more basic techniques 💪🏻💪🏻
I have the ntn and I am have a really hard knock left tear at center shot the shims are on the right side of the cams both top and bottom limbs on the right side are 124 top and 125 bottom on the left side of the bow they are 117 top and 122 bottom what do I need to do to get a true centershot bullet hole
Hi Joe , you’ll have to move the rest to centre shot to see what it does through the paper 🏹 if you get the same tear as mine, then you can follow the same process. If your tear is opposite of mine, you can do everything else the other way around 💪🏻
@@HannoDeKlerkArchery I have a Bowtech Carbon Icon with twin cams. No yokes. I am getting a 2.5 inch right tear. Before seeing this video I tried tuning from the riser (whisker biscuit) and pushed it left and right ... with little improvement. It is now all the way to the left. (OCD as well...) There is a 3/32" shim on the left side of each cam and a 3/16" shim on the right side of each cam. The top cam has a small lean left and the bottom cam has an equally small lean right. I got a Hamskea drop away arrow rest and will install it in the coming days. Any advise regarding the cam shims would be appreciated.
sorincomsa moving the cam with the spacer/shims will most probably yield little to no results at the carbon Icon doesn’t have split limbs like on the Evo nxt in the video. I would suggest to look at you nocking point and see if there is any nock pinch. Also try some different spine arrows out if you can without buying a new set. I might be wrong about the cam shim, it’s one of those that I still have to play with to go through the trail and error process.
I can't get it same bow almost same problem I had a tail right tail is there so I switched the spacers to push the Cam all the way to the right but then I swear but then I switched the limbs to 80 pounds mouse and for one the bow come from the factory supposed to be 70 pounds and was only pulling 63 This thing has literally been a nightmare since I got it it's a great shoot great pulling boat I just want to build a pen with a broadheads in 60 and 80 yd Like I was saying I flipped the put the bigger spacers on the left of the game pushing it right then I got 80 pound limbs for it but the heaviest on the right lightest on the left starting in the highest number and going clockwise wise this is what PSSC told me now I got significant cabling and I'm not OK with it it's rubbing up against my cable for my split I just can't figure it out I've taken it apart I've put the limbs on different sides different size I've done everything I could think of
Mate, getting a perfect bullet hole means nothing. It does nothing to your skill as an Archer. Too many people become obsessed with this bullet hole rubbish.
About time someone said this. I feel like too many social media archers (not saying this is the case with Hanno but based on what I've seen on IG) spend more time tuning the bow than actually shooting it. And even after all that trouble they rarely post competition scores or the animals they are supposedly preparing so much to harvest. The reasoning being they want themselves to be the weakest element of the shooting system. However they seem to forget that a perfectly tuned bow will still shoot like crap if the person behind it doesn't know what they are doing,
Ok first of all this is my kinda information. I’m a student of the game of archery and watch a lot of videos. This is the first set of videos that goes this far into detail and I love it. Good stuff
Thanks man🤙🏻 shout for ant assistance 💪🏻
Hallo Hanno ,thank you so much for your tuning video, I followed you instructions for my PSE EVO EVL 34 . I left the higher deflection limb on the top to the left but flipped the roller guard and shimmed left for that tear and some yoke twists and now both cams align exactly to the center of the D loop. And I'm just doing bare shaft and fletched tuning on the walk back but having amazing results so far, so much more forgiving. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge 🙏. Best regards Mac
I have worked all day on my Supra RTX 37 left tear. I shimmed.30 thousand of left side to right. Went from a boo doodle rest to a QAD. BACK TO DOODLE. rest is at 13/16 center shot. Went from 100 gr to 85 point still left tear bare shaft and fletched. Going do limb swap tomorrow. Hope I’m on right track. Previous pro shop owner. I’m a tuning fanatic. Enjoyed your video
Awesome info mate. I’m in Australia I have a Pse bow madness unleashed and experienced the same. After being told there’s not much I can do but move the rest I can’t wait to play with what you said. Thanks so much for your info and time.
Only a pleasure! Let me know how it goes 🙌🏻
Every "pro" shop in Australia says the same thing, sorry mate there's nothing we can do, you could go to the biggest pro shop in Australia and ask if they could tie a d loop and you would get the same response. I can't help but laugh when they say take your bow to your local pro shop to get certain things done maybe in the USA but if you want work done on bow here the last place you take it is to the shop special the one you bought it from.
It's lovely to see such a nice guy sharing his information with everyone online as well as taking the time to answer each and every comment that people are making.
Well done for that and your great knowledge. Not disagreeing that sometimes extreme measures like this are absolutely necessary but, I will say that before going into this sort of high level tinkering new Archers or even old ones that know enough would be well advised to check the simple stuff first.
Here in Australia we are unlucky in that there are few if any decent bow shop Tech's which means that we Aussie's have to learn for ourselves.
Here's what I learned: K.I.S.S. (keep it simple stupid).
A great resource for those like me that didn't want to tear their bow apart is The Ranch Fairy Channel.
He like this wonderful RUclipsr does his level best to help by sharing knowledge as follows:
1. A fair amount of the time it's the arrow, not the bow. Badly weighted, wrong spine, wrong tip, etc etc can cause huge tears in many directions.
2. Maybe just maybe it's you (bad grip, terrible posture, overdraw, under draw, face pressure there's a bunch of reasons right there for your terrible tear.
Hope this helps a lot of you before you go down the rabbit hole of needless complexity. 😁.
Thanks a lot man, I truly agree with you in that regard, the simpler you keep it, the less can go wrong. I only dive into the more extreme stuff when all the simple trick are ticked off. Process of elimination can sometimes take up a lot of time, but at least you know everything is spot on then 🤙🏻
@@HannoDeKlerkArchery so very true lol. I just read through my comment and realized that my phone had spell corrected my English to make it completely illegible lol. My apologies, English is my first language and I have no excuses lol.
Followed your advice and changed the spacers on the cams. This caused the cam to lean and the draw stop to miss the cable. I now have a pse evo nxt at full draw that wont let down thanks mate.
Damn man, that’s not supposed to happen. It’s the first time I hear of something like this. Did you manage to get it back in the press safely?
Yes got a ratchet strap round the limbs and got it to the shop with no damage as far as I can see. Not had chance to shoot it again yet but it's back to the drawing board to try to get rid of this right tear.
Soo much technical info and explanation ❤thank you soo much for helping the rest of us.
HANNO! 🙏🏼
Been chasing my EVO NXT 31 tuning for over a month. Did the limb swap and shot through paper 6-20 feet and boom bullets with multiple releases. Going to finish the tune this weekend. I’ll give an update.
Let me know how it’s going Mitch 👊🏻💪🏻
@@HannoDeKlerkArchery soooo much better groups. waaay more forgiving.
If I miss now, its my fault.
Thanks again
@@regg4172 any time Mitch 💪🏻
Hi Hanno, thank you for sharing your knowledge, really enjoyed the technical insights and the time it took to discover it. Much appreciated.🙏
You definitely know how to get the evolve cam tuned! What would you do with a tail left tare for a left handed shooter?
Man, I think you can do the same as what I did in the video, even though you are left handed
Wondering what you did with the shims after you changed limbs? Did you re-center the cams with the shims after that? There is a spot where the cams lean too much or are not in a spot that hits the cable stops and rotates past, very sketchy..I'm putting a new string on my Carbon Stealth and am going to try your advice with the limbs and start with centered cams. Good video!
Hello Hanno, I purchased a PSE Carbon Air last spring. I brought it home to set it up, and the only way I could get a bullet hole bare shaft ended up with my arrow rest so far to the left that the arrow stuck out like the old recurve set ups! The arrow rest mfgr. said "man, something's wrong with your bow, you need to take it to a pro shop"! So I did. I was floored when they non nonchalantly stated, "oh, it needs shimmed"! They would not tell me exactly what they did, nor would they let me watch them do it, or answer any of my probing questions. But the reason I'm writing is to ask you, how or where did you learn all this stuff about limb swapping and shimming? I totally understand what you were trying to achieve, but I'd prefer not to learn what the outcome of each modification produces by trial and error, and would rather study examples and what mods were made to correct each of these conditions. Does such information exist to your knowledge? I know PSE offers a "bow tech" class, but it is for employees of PSE pro shops. Is there anything out there for the general public.....that wants to know more? Thanks and keep up the phenomenal videos!!
Hi Ed 🏹 I hope your bow is sorted now. My process is a complex mixture of trail and error with prior experience of tuning all sorts of bows, especially if you want it to run the arrow down the middle of the bow. I made a few logical assumptions, tore the bow apart, put it back together and shot it to see if I was wrong or right. We have been in contact with guys at the factory and they couldn’t provide us with a process to run through for specific problems. It’s the main reason why I made this video. We have used this same process on 4 different pse models over 4 different archers, and on all of them we had successful tunes. I think the main reason why there is no hard copy to follow is that it may differ because of the vast amount of variables in the system, and also to protect the shops in some sort of way 🤷🏻♂️
My pse evoke is setup the exact same as this video.
My PSE evoke 35 is also set up exactly like his and shoots great
Hi Hanna, Steve here ex Cape Town now in Nz. I bought a PSE DNA bow 2013. I would like to set it up correctly .. could you recommend some document or video I could watch to see how to adjust everything !! Thanks Steve
I have a question, we’re the limbs supposed to be in those positions or did they make a mistake at the factory?
My evo had a bad limb and pse rebuilt it and ever since i got it back it has refused to tune! Constant left tear that we have been battling for a year! Time to try swapping limbs!
I hope the video can help make the process a bit less painful. But once you’ve got that sorted ... 👌🏻 it turns into a total different beast
Hey mate great vid I have the opposite problem with right tear how does the cable gaurd affect the tear IE more tension or less tension needed Cheers KIM
Hi Kim, you can move your cable slide closer to the arrow 💪🏻
@@HannoDeKlerkArchery thanks mate I will try that
on my PSE drive NXT, the limbs were setup like you changed them directly from the factory. Weak limbs on the left, stiff limbs on the right. I have a right handed bow also. The weird thing on mine is that the upper limbs are stronger then the lower limbs. I think the weaker upper limb is as stiff as the lower stiffer one .... Ther secrets of compounds bows :)
Did you try to remove or change the position of back stabilizer, stabilizers can give you a really difficult to fix tear.
I am pretty sure that to fix left tear usually you need to decrease tension on the cables, it means to move cable guard in
Yes, I shot the bow with and without the back bar setup to see if there is a difference through the paper but had no luck. The bow is well-balanced without a stabilizer setup, so I just use the back bar to low the centre weight of gravity and to bring the bow upright at full draw 🏹 I have had encounters in the past that I could manipulate the paper tuning with a sidebar.
Excellent video, I have the NTN and I am experiencing a right tear, I also adjusted spine, draw weight, centre shot, foc, going to a friends house to tackle this project. Did you just move the spacers or did you have to add shims as well.
I just moved the spacers around 💪🏻💪🏻
Im having the same problem with my ntn
Hi Hanno De Klerk, my PSE Lazer is lauching the arrows drift to the right no matter how much I move the rest to the left. I don’t have any idea what’s the problem. Can you tell me some hints?
I’ve got a severe tail right on my evo 31. Center shot is good. Should I move the cable guard closer to arrow or farther? Thanks Hanno
Hi Dan, you can move your roller guard closer to the arrow. If the problem still persists, I would recommend moving the cams to the right hand side.
Hanno De Klerk thanks Hanno. I shimmed the cams 1/16 right and got 3 perfect bullet holes in a row.
OK so I'm a right hand and I have a pse xpedite and cannot get rid of the tail left.
I tried everything except shimming.
Should.i move my shims
I would suggest shimming your cams, it will be a good start. To get rid of the tail left, move your cams to the left. If that doesn't work, we need to look at the deflections of your limbs 🏹 I would first start shimming the bottom cam, and then the top cam 👍🏻
Hanno De Klerk my cam is already on the left from factory
Do you mean move cams to the right?
Hanno De Klerk and thank you for the response much appreciated
All well and good. But paper tuning only shows what the arrow is doing at that specific distance. Have you tried with the paper further or closer distance to see the results?
Are you checking cam lean at rest or full draw?
Personally i went through alot of what you did on my evolve35 hunting a bullet hole, found it then immediately lost it when i tuned for distance.
All well and good what you say too. But throw a decent fixed blade Broadhead on with a 1inch tail left tear and you can’t rectify by moving rest position. I know people can be over particular with bullet holes. I actually shoot broadheads then if there is a problem shoot through paper to help resolve the issue. The test is up close to paper because that is where broadheads will resist the fletchings and determine impact. At the end I just want my arrows all grouping together and this video is what is needed sometimes.
Yes I have tuned at a distance as well before all these other methods were done. I had terrible arrow flight, and it will be obvious because it wasn't even tuned for up close. After the cam shim and lean and limb swop, I got it to tune up close which sorted out my arrow flight. I tuned it again at a distance and it gave me a perfect tear too. My fixed blades also group with field points again without making any additional adjustments to my rest. You may want to play with the role guard angle when tuning at a distance as that will refine you initial up close tune.
Cam lean is checked at rest because it is at that position where the arrow leaves the bow 🏹
@@HannoDeKlerkArchery cheers wasnt sure if that was mentioned.
@@gavancassar1366 about to get a couple ozcut 3 blades so that will tell. (previously liked mechanicals)
@@ccleadge you are right, I didn't mention it, but it is a good checkpoint to have during the tuning process, especially if you are going to shoot fixed blades
Can you please explain why the cames lean in opposite directions when you swapped the limbs? Shouldnt the bottom lean left just like the top?
I have noticed on some of Dudley’s videos he has his arrow 90 degrees to the string but it looks like he is running above the Berger holes. What is your arrow height in relation to the Berger holes?
I ran mine through the middle of the berger hole and also with the bottom of the arrow in the middle of the berger hole and also just above. It didn’t seem to make much of a difference. I like running the stuff through the middle. Most of the time it works pretty great 💪🏻
Hanno De Klerk nice! I do the same thing, but I figured I’d ask before I got started setting it up. I got the NTN version (sweet deal I couldn’t pass up) but it’s basically the same bow so figured tuning will be identical. Thank you for the info!
No worries man 💪🏻 keep me posted , it’s phenomenal bows, you’ll love it 🏹
With cams leaning and limbs looking unlevel …. Does that cause bow to be inconsistent at distance ( 80-120 yards)??
Wonder if you can give me a few reasons my arrow flight is corkscrewing in a counterclockwise direction. Hoyt helix. 70#, 340 spine, 100 grain broadhead. Field tips have way smaller corkscrew...barely affects flight. Bow shop tech could not fix this issue for me. Any help would be much appreciated. Thank you
Hi Charles, what is your draw length ?
@@HannoDeKlerkArchery 29.5
@@HannoDeKlerkArchery I did realize something today while looking at my bow...the string is offset to the left of center, due to the cams. They are left of center in the limbs. Im going to try twist yokes to bring upper cam back to vertical and move rest more to the left...will see how that works out. Still wondering though, have you had arrows shoot in a corkscrew before? If so, what was cause? Thank you🤙🏾
It might be that your spine of the arrows are to weak, especially when you have a 125 gn point upfront. How well does it shoot trough paper ?
Sir will u show me how to fix limbs at top and bottom as I have a limbs number....151, 154,157 and 158
Also on my pse evo nxt the higher numbered limbs seem to be the weaker ones that deflect more. Any ideas why?
I have no idea why that would be, how did you determine it ?
The higher numbers where on the right both top and bottom and the cams where shimmed to the left. And both limbs deflected evenly. When I shimmed the cams slightly to the right the right limbs with the higher numbers deflected tonnes more. I guessed that means on my bow the high numbered limbs are weaker.
Since PSE is restructuring...
They should throw money at you until you are in charge of street level relations with customers. You are hands down one of my favorite parts of owning an PSE NXT.
Haha I highly doubt that they would do that, but helping others shooting better is the main goal, our equipment should work flawlessly so that we can focus on ourselves ⚡️
hello, i keep getting a tail right tear on my evo xf 30 pse bow. Ive moved my arrow rest as far left as it can go trying to chase the tear but now i'm out of adjustment on my arrow rest. what do you recommend first?
I just got a PSE Drive SB. hasnt arrived yet but if i get cam lean and im going to have to go through the same process of removing my limbs too ?
Set it up first, maybe you do not need to go through this exact same process. All these issues may just be the way I grip the bow, or maybe it’s the bow itself. This is just some additional info if cannot get it tuned with the more basic techniques 💪🏻💪🏻
I have the ntn and I am have a really hard knock left tear at center shot the shims are on the right side of the cams both top and bottom limbs on the right side are 124 top and 125 bottom on the left side of the bow they are 117 top and 122 bottom what do I need to do to get a true centershot bullet hole
Hey Ethan, have you adjusted you rollerguard outwards a bit? And what spine arrows do you have and what is you draw length and poundage?
@@HannoDeKlerkArcherythe roller guard is a fixed one on the ntn and I'm shooting a 300 spine at 70lbs
Ethan Burton I was afraid of that on the NTN bows. How is your nocking point? Do you have a slight pinch?
@@HannoDeKlerkArchery no pinch and 30in draw
The NTN bows, do they come with the rubber grip or not?
Have you played with different grip positions as well ?
Changed from the dark quattro dentro to the light quattro dentro stabilizer
👀👀
So what would I need to do to get my PSE XPEDITE closer to center shot?? My arrow at rest points quite a bit left but shoots good thru paper like that
Hi Joe , you’ll have to move the rest to centre shot to see what it does through the paper 🏹 if you get the same tear as mine, then you can follow the same process. If your tear is opposite of mine, you can do everything else the other way around 💪🏻
How did you measure the stiffness for each limb?
The stiffness of the limb is presented by a deflection number on the limb itself. The higher the number, the stiffer the limb 💪🏻
@@HannoDeKlerkArchery I have a Bowtech Carbon Icon with twin cams. No yokes. I am getting a 2.5 inch right tear. Before seeing this video I tried tuning from the riser (whisker biscuit) and pushed it left and right ... with little improvement. It is now all the way to the left. (OCD as well...) There is a 3/32" shim on the left side of each cam and a 3/16" shim on the right side of each cam. The top cam has a small lean left and the bottom cam has an equally small lean right. I got a Hamskea drop away arrow rest and will install it in the coming days. Any advise regarding the cam shims would be appreciated.
sorincomsa moving the cam with the spacer/shims will most probably yield little to no results at the carbon Icon doesn’t have split limbs like on the Evo nxt in the video.
I would suggest to look at you nocking point and see if there is any nock pinch. Also try some different spine arrows out if you can without buying a new set.
I might be wrong about the cam shim, it’s one of those that I still have to play with to go through the trail and error process.
I would love to see the speed test on both the 33" g the 31" with the fast/speed module "and" 80# limbs. Any chance of that happening?
Changed stabilizers / colour
The stabilizers changed 👀
I can't get it same bow almost same problem I had a tail right tail is there so I switched the spacers to push the Cam all the way to the right but then I swear but then I switched the limbs to 80 pounds mouse and for one the bow come from the factory supposed to be 70 pounds and was only pulling 63 This thing has literally been a nightmare since I got it it's a great shoot great pulling boat I just want to build a pen with a broadheads in 60 and 80 yd Like I was saying I flipped the put the bigger spacers on the left of the game pushing it right then I got 80 pound limbs for it but the heaviest on the right lightest on the left starting in the highest number and going clockwise wise this is what PSSC told me now I got significant cabling and I'm not OK with it it's rubbing up against my cable for my split I just can't figure it out I've taken it apart I've put the limbs on different sides different size I've done everything I could think of
Hanno !!
Do you have a Facebook page?
Yes I do have, you can search Hanno De Klerk and I'm on Instagram as well 🏹
Someone please tell me why I even need cam lean
Great video. You know what might make it better? Refrain from virtue signaling, stick to archery.
Mate, getting a perfect bullet hole means nothing. It does nothing to your skill as an Archer. Too many people become obsessed with this bullet hole rubbish.
About time someone said this. I feel like too many social media archers (not saying this is the case with Hanno but based on what I've seen on IG) spend more time tuning the bow than actually shooting it. And even after all that trouble they rarely post competition scores or the animals they are supposedly preparing so much to harvest. The reasoning being they want themselves to be the weakest element of the shooting system. However they seem to forget that a perfectly tuned bow will still shoot like crap if the person behind it doesn't know what they are doing,
He only did this because the company should have shipped the bow from the factory perfect. Not all jacked up.