You wouldn't believe how many beginning sculpting instructions there are that never discuss the basics of clay before going to the act of sculpting. If I don't have the knowledge of the media what good is knowing how to form it? So, thank you for explaining a little about it to us.
Totally agree - to get back into sculpting after a long time, this kid simply and clearly reviewed the basics - I'm ordering many pounds! thanks Fritz :)
No it would not be painted on. But to make a silicone mold from it. Then it also needs to be a sulphur free one as silicon would not "harden" so well. Just what I catched so far. But I only used monster clay "hard" so far and need something more soft for smaller things.
So Roma Plastilina has sulfur in it, which reacts to most rubber mold compounds, and since it can’t be kiln fired, baked, or air dried, it isn’t ideal for sculpting for something that you are going to try to cast into metal, glass, plaster etc. There are other plastilinas (or plasticine) that are made without sulfur, including by Roma/Chavant, that are just as good. I find Roma Plastilina is only good for me for practice sculptures. You can technically cover the Roma Plastilina with a shellac or some other substance to use with various rubber mold compounds so that the sulfur doesn’t touch the silicone etc. This is a well known issue with Roma, so very easy to look up. I use Jolly King and Chavant Prima plastilina which are sulfur free, work the same as Roma, and smell a little better since they don’t have that sulfur/chemical smell.
It still works well if your mold is made of plaster or ultracal, (what you may use if you plan to cast in silicone) (both would need to be sealed though)
@@Darkbulb1 Yes, that is true, that is why I haven’t thrown away my Roma Plastilina, although when I make plaster molds it is usually for slip casting so often the model I make out of pottery clay, although then the pottery clay, because it has touched plaster, cannot ever be fired or used for anything except for work with plaster, because any tiny bits of plaster will cause what we call “lime popping” in the kiln, which can cause pretty big explosions if there is enough plaster in the clay, or just small blisters or craters, but none of that is ideal. So I have specific pottery clay I got for half price for being “old” (it was from 2020 and I got it December 2021, and actually the longer a pottery clay ages the better it is, you just have to give it water and throw it down the stairs (seriously) to soften it back up) that I just use for working with plaster molds for making slip casting molds or investment molds with plaster and flint (silica) for glass casting. I should also probably start using my plasticine more for plaster molds, it just leaves an oily residue in the plaster that has to be carefully cleaned out and the mold dried well after cleaning before use. Since I don’t use plaster to cast into molds, or silicone or resin, I only cast glass, wax, and pottery slip, I tend to forget that people use these molds for other materials a lot still. Good luck everyone, just had wanted to make sure people were aware that you can’t use sulfur-carrying plasticine with silicone molds, and silicone molds are extremely common, so it would really suck for someone to make a detailed sculpture in the wrong type of clay and then not have their mold work!
No this will stay "wet" forever. it won't dry, harden, and can't be fired in a kiln it will just melt. I have been looking myself for something and I don't know the answer yet as to what you should get, just this stuff won't work.
Ah the classic scent and feel of Roma #2😁 NSP Medium brown by Chavant is definitely my favorite. It's a little bit more pricey, but it tends to hold details a little better and even when slightly overworked.
Say if you made a skull 💀 sculpture. Like about almost human size. Plus if you imprinted or carved a lot of detail in the sculpture,,could you then paint on silicone onto this material and get a good mold out of it? Or is it too soft to make a detailed mold?
Oil based clays are great to work with, but they must be molded to be permanent. I suggest starting by only focusing on the sculpting. Then come back and leave me a comment when you are ready to make something permanent. You will be a better sculptor if you focus on your first piece. Then learn to mold it, and cast it with some material.
It is oil based. So the colder it gets.. That harder the clay is. The warmer it gets... The softer (until melting at 100°F+). Room temps are you best working temps (60 - 75°F)
Three years late but, what are your thoughts on monster clay? Have you tied it by any chance? Edit: just went through more of your videos. It seems that you have tried monster clay would you say that the medium hardness is good for a beginner? Also would ylu say that monster clay is better than the clay in the video? Anyways i hope to hear from you soon.
Yes I have used monster clay. It is great for tiny textures and details because it does not stick to your tools as much as J-Mac. The Roma Plastilina also is less sticky, but you can get softer clay with the Roma. It comes down to what you want to sculpt. I have been using J-Mac "soft" a lot this year because I have been sculpting large pieces. If you are sculpting something with intricate tiny texture details.... Us Monster Medium. If you are sculpting something large... Use J-Mac soft. Your hands and wallet will get worn out using the others. If it is something with tiny limbs, fingers, legs, etc.... Use Roma Plastilina "Firm". It will hold itself up better.
Thanks for this video. I'm having trouble with my current medium which is paper clay. I just made a detailed one and painted it but it's too fragile like a vase that it broke most of the time. I'll be considering a type 1 of the plastilina clay and look for one in my country. Thanks so much.
I'm more into air-dry clay like the current one I'm using which is paper clay. I don't have plan to cast them on a mold (though that would be cool but I think it's more time-consuming and harder to make like in making toys since I've seen cast/molds also over the net). I like the part in your vid that type 1 can form fingers easily without breaking away that much, so that's why I decided it would be neat with my art projects.
@@laudydorado5245 Yes molding is very very time consuming. A great thing about oil based clay is it sticks to itself really well, but it can't be hardened. I'd recommend practicing with the oil based, then once you're satisfied with the sculpt... Try to duplicate it in a polymer. The polymer won't be as easy to work with. But you can bake it in the oven to turn it into a permanent work of art. And of course the oil based clay can be reused to practice more.
@@FritzHoppe , I see so oil-based plastilina clay don't harden like air-dry paper clay. Do you also used acrylic paint or the textile paint? My paper clay works well with these two except for the rubber paint, which for some reason slides off the art piece.
@@laudydorado5245 yes it does not harden, which is why it is reusable. But it does last decades. We still use oil based clay from 20 years ago. If you're paint is falling off, try a coat of gesso around the entire piece. It works as a very strong primer. Otherwise you'll have to invest in better paints.
I just bought a 2 lb block at a garage sell for a buck, it's called SARGENT ART PLASTILINA. Just gonna try my touch at it, I'm an artist and always wanted to try this form of art.
Completely different by it's chemical makeup. Sculpy is a polymer, while Roma Plastilina is an sulfur and oil-based clay. Roma is much easier to work with by far; however, you must mold it it to make a piece permanent. Sculpey can just be baked in the oven to harden. I have a video on sculpey if you would like to watch it: ruclips.net/video/FiRNxr34G-I/видео.html
@@FritzHoppe I have only used sculpy, and bake it to paint, but I saw another video of a guy using Terracotta Plasticine Escultor, and he painted it in its moldable form it looked like with acrylic paints. I don't like how sculpy can get soft while working with it, and firm is too firm, so I am thinking of other options.
I get this question very often. To understand how I use oil-based clay, please read about the full sculpting process used to create Fibonacci Fox here: fritzhoppebronze.com/fibonacci_fox.html I will pin this comment, to help other understand how this clay is used.
I just opened a brand new package of Plastilina, just now, and the smell is, well...like confectionery sugar. In other words, I was pleasantly surprised. I like it so far.
I may create a video on clays that can be "fired", but there is no way to harden roma plastilina modeling clay permanently. The sculptor must mold the clay figure, then reproduce it in wax using the rubber mold. Then after that... form a ceramic shell around the figure and pour molten metal into this shell (with the reproduced sculpture inside). This is called the lost wax method because the wax figure melts and is replaced by the molten metal. Check out worldtraveler channel on RUclips (actually commented below your comment here). He is the expert on this process and has in-depth videos on lost wax casting.
You can spray it with a sealer like crystal clear then mold in tin cure silicone after sealed and mold release has been applied. Or if you plan to reproduce the sculpture in silicone then you can make a two part mold in UltraCal or plaster
Hi Fritz thanks for your explain about video, do you have any wax clay making receipt ? could you give any wax clay making reveipt, if you do not mind? I would like to make it..
You can certainly create fiberglass molds, as long as the molding materials are compatible with sulfur. If not, sculpt with J-Mac: ruclips.net/video/ZUDGJxosF6k/видео.html
I mold my pieces before continuing with lost wax casting. There are some polymer clays that will harden when you bake them, but they are much more expensive and difficult to work in your hands or with tools. I would suggest practices with an oil-based clay, then perhaps you can mold it if you really like a piece. Polymer clay could be pressed into the mold, preserving the detail. Then it could put into the oven to harden (and you may reuse your oil based clay!)
This material will work great, but you will have to mold your clay sculpture. This will allow you to duplicate it in wax. That wax duplication is what you would use for lost wax casting. Also, the roma usually doesn't work with silicon rubbers because it contains sulfur. So be sure to mold your piece using a material that is compatible with the clay.
Hi, love your videos. So to harden it it has to be below a certain temperature? If it heats back up will it turn soft again or it will just stay solid?
Thanks! The clay will harden around room temperature (70° F) and it will soften again as temperature rises. This is not a polymer. This clay is very easy to practice with, but there is no way to cure it.
I believe this is done to save costs. Personally, I don't think it is worth the time. For some people though, they are in no hurry and enjoy DIY projects. Knowing exactly how your clay will behave in certain temperatures is important, so sticking with with professional clay is a better choice for the serious sculptor. If you want to learn more about mixing bees wax with oil based clay, there is some interesting info here: www.reddit.com/r/Sculpture/comments/6fvvj2/my_homemade_plasticine_recipe/
Unfortunately I am not too familiar with porclain clay. I do know that any clay that hardens (when you cook it) is going to be more difficult to work with than oil based clay.
The ROMA comes in the grey/green and white. You do NOT bake this clay - it is wax and oil based and will melt. One must make a mold of the sculpture created and then cast the piece for a permanent sculpture. Then the ROMA can be reused for another sculpture
Definitely sculpey. I remember using it when I was a little kid. You can bake it in your oven to make it hard as a rock. You can get a box of it on Amazon, here's my affiliate link: amzn.to/2SkYp7w You can go with ceramics, but they needed to be heated in very high temperature kilns. Sculpey is much more affordable and practical if you are starting out.
In the description, I have provided some Amazon links to the clay. I will occasionally promote some of the supplies I use on my channel. Hope this helps!
Well I suppose it really depends on what your goals are with the clay. I have tried different types of oil-based clay of different hardness. The Roma has excellent consistency without being so sticky (artists will choose it over others because you can achieve a smooth finish). It does contain sulfur, so keep that in mind if you want to mold the sculpture. Roma is around $15 bux for a brick, so you're not out much if you don't like it. You can try J-Mac (similar but sulfur free) or monster clay (no stickyness for extreme details, but more pricey)... or you can try polymer (not even close to Roma or J-Mac) if you want to put the sculpture in the oven at the end and bake. What do exactly do you want to do with clay? And do you want to mold your piece when it's finished?
i keep seeing this stuff recommended and i’ve been wondering the same thing. i cannot seem to find any answers that are definite. what i can imagine is potentially cooling the final piece down so that it becomes very hard, then casting a mold from it (using a non-heating mold material) and from there casting a finished product out of something hard. this seems like a whole lot of trouble for some firm clay when there are firm polymer clays out there that probably work just as well. the fact that this person immediately says “i’ve never tried other clays” tells me that this video is not a great source. good luck!
That’s what I was wondering,,if you can take a mold of your finished sculpture using silicone.? Or would it not be hard enough? And would brushing on the silicone make heat and distort the detail of the sculpture and end up with a failed mold of the sculpture? I used air dry clay and I’m getting some cracking on my sculpture, but I will go back and fix them with a little water and clay. I hope once it’s dry I can make a good mold of my sculpture..👍🏽🙏🏽
If you’ve never tried another clay, how do you know this is the best? A better title would be the clay that you’ve used, not the best because you have nothing to compare it to.
It really comes down to what your objective is sculpting. This is the best quality, but all top clays have different aspects. Edit: I have tried many different clays. Oil based clays are the best. Just do your research on how to mold them if you choose to cast sculptures in a permanent material.
No offense but you are saying this is the best clay despite never having tried other clays, it's like saying you the only girl you slept with is the best in bed ;) . I doubt it (it's a great product I agree and ONE of the best) . NSP clays are also oil-based and excellent therefore there are a few good ones. Also it depends what you want to do. This clay is not good to make limited edition sculptures but it's good for molding. You can reuse it that's also a plus and its pleasant to work with. My point is you need different clays for different jobs
Yeah it really depends on what you want to use it for. You can mold this clay though, but you must use a rubber mold that is compatible with sulfur. Polytek's website covers all of that. I almost always use Polytek's materials (yes they are pricey) because their molds don't decay. For someone who just wants to sculpt for fun or practice, this is probably the best. It's smoother and not quite as sticky as the others, but a little easier to work with the hands than something like monster clay (which probably rivals this as the all-around best). I have discovered that most of my viewers are watching my videos to learn beginner information. A beginner really should try different clays, while always testing the compatibility of any mold materials on a small piece of clay before molding a completed work of art.
It depends on what you want to do with it. If you want to make molds of your sculptures and cast the sculpture into other material, regular pottery clay that you carefully keep wet after use and never fire can work just fine, or you can use air dry clay that you are careful to keep damp while you are using it, or plasticine (make sure it is sulfur free if you are ever going to use silicone molds) works wonderfully for making sculptures that you are going to make a mold of. If you want to make something and have it air dry, know that it cannot be use for serving food or containing water, but you can make sculptures that you can “cold finish” with acrylics, tempura, oil, pastels, spray paint, and seal with a paste tile wax like Trewax (my favorite, made out of carnauba wax) or a marine based epoxy sealer- though you have to know, no matter what the sealers say, there are no sealers (other than wax) on the market that won’t start to yellow in about 20 years or less if in sunlight at all. Just an FYI. Google cold finish sculpture and you will find a lot of information. Also google air dry clay (something I’m not very familiar with as I never use it) to learn more about it, there are some that you can buy at pottery suppliers that are better quality and work more like real pottery clay, and they feel like it, take water like it, and don’t dry until you stop keeping it damp. I would recommend those over something like Creative Paperclay (which is mostly plastic/resin). Check out the r/Sculpture subreddit on Reddit- while I am not a big fan of Reddit in general, the sculpture and pottery subreddits have really nice people on them who are very helpful. If you do some keyword searches within the sculpture subreddit you will come upon a lot of information on which plasticines are the best to use (no, Monster Clay is really not the best and it is very overpriced) and a lot of information on clays that are not used in kilns. The other thing you can look into, if you are not trying to make functional dinnerware, but just sculptures, is using pottery clay and doing pitfiring, barrel firing, or Raku, which are simple ways to fire pottery without a kiln (but it doesn’t make the pottery safe for eating or drinking with) but is perfect for a lot of sculptures! Ceramic Arts Network has some great articles on pitfiring, barrel firing, and Raku. They even have a way to do pitfiring using a charcoal grill!
Oil based clay is very easy to work with, but it cannot be hardened. Creating a mold of the finished piece allows the artist to proceed with casting in metal, resin, etc.
You wouldn't believe how many beginning sculpting instructions there are that never discuss the basics of clay before going to the act of sculpting. If I don't have the knowledge of the media what good is knowing how to form it? So, thank you for explaining a little about it to us.
Thank you for commenting on that, I appreciate it! A very good point, as frustration will surely dampen creativity. Artists must prevent frustrations.
Totally agree - to get back into sculpting after a long time, this kid simply and clearly reviewed the basics - I'm ordering many pounds! thanks Fritz :)
Hi from Italy. Yes you pronounced “plastilina” perfectly 😁
Awesome! I finally did something right the first time.
@@FritzHoppe now wait for you to spell it wrong and get swarmed by 1/10^22 of earth's population
Hi,
Don't you want your sculptures to harden? Is it safe to handle without damaging, since it is soft? Can you paint it? Thanks
No it would not be painted on. But to make a silicone mold from it. Then it also needs to be a sulphur free one as silicon would not "harden" so well. Just what I catched so far. But I only used monster clay "hard" so far and need something more soft for smaller things.
So Roma Plastilina has sulfur in it, which reacts to most rubber mold compounds, and since it can’t be kiln fired, baked, or air dried, it isn’t ideal for sculpting for something that you are going to try to cast into metal, glass, plaster etc. There are other plastilinas (or plasticine) that are made without sulfur, including by Roma/Chavant, that are just as good. I find Roma Plastilina is only good for me for practice sculptures. You can technically cover the Roma Plastilina with a shellac or some other substance to use with various rubber mold compounds so that the sulfur doesn’t touch the silicone etc. This is a well known issue with Roma, so very easy to look up. I use Jolly King and Chavant Prima plastilina which are sulfur free, work the same as Roma, and smell a little better since they don’t have that sulfur/chemical smell.
It still works well if your mold is made of plaster or ultracal, (what you may use if you plan to cast in silicone) (both would need to be sealed though)
@@Darkbulb1 Yes, that is true, that is why I haven’t thrown away my Roma Plastilina, although when I make plaster molds it is usually for slip casting so often the model I make out of pottery clay, although then the pottery clay, because it has touched plaster, cannot ever be fired or used for anything except for work with plaster, because any tiny bits of plaster will cause what we call “lime popping” in the kiln, which can cause pretty big explosions if there is enough plaster in the clay, or just small blisters or craters, but none of that is ideal. So I have specific pottery clay I got for half price for being “old” (it was from 2020 and I got it December 2021, and actually the longer a pottery clay ages the better it is, you just have to give it water and throw it down the stairs (seriously) to soften it back up) that I just use for working with plaster molds for making slip casting molds or investment molds with plaster and flint (silica) for glass casting. I should also probably start using my plasticine more for plaster molds, it just leaves an oily residue in the plaster that has to be carefully cleaned out and the mold dried well after cleaning before use. Since I don’t use plaster to cast into molds, or silicone or resin, I only cast glass, wax, and pottery slip, I tend to forget that people use these molds for other materials a lot still. Good luck everyone, just had wanted to make sure people were aware that you can’t use sulfur-carrying plasticine with silicone molds, and silicone molds are extremely common, so it would really suck for someone to make a detailed sculpture in the wrong type of clay and then not have their mold work!
The packaging makes such a nice sound 😍😱
This is called ASMR. Look it up on RUclips.
@@FritzHoppe I know haha was just saying
omg it really does, so satisfying 😂😂
I was asked to make a toy sculpture and I want to paint it with acrylic paint. Is this a good medium for the project I’m doing?
No this will stay "wet" forever. it won't dry, harden, and can't be fired in a kiln it will just melt. I have been looking myself for something and I don't know the answer yet as to what you should get, just this stuff won't work.
try super sculpey instead
Great information! I've been fooling around with stop motion and trying various clays, polymers, etc., I appreciate these videos so much!
Thanks for watching! If you don't car what color the clay is, then I imagine that Roma would be an excellent choice. Monster Clay is another good one.
Can I pour silicon mold over it? I know that it never hardens so is it OK to pour silicone mold while it is still soft?
Ah the classic scent and feel of Roma #2😁 NSP Medium brown by Chavant is definitely my favorite. It's a little bit more pricey, but it tends to hold details a little better and even when slightly overworked.
Say if you made a skull 💀 sculpture. Like about almost human size. Plus if you imprinted or carved a lot of detail in the sculpture,,could you then paint on silicone onto this material and get a good mold out of it? Or is it too soft to make a detailed mold?
Say I’m done sculpting with one of these clays, how would I get it to harden? Sorry looking into starting with clay sculpting
Oil based clays are great to work with, but they must be molded to be permanent. I suggest starting by only focusing on the sculpting. Then come back and leave me a comment when you are ready to make something permanent. You will be a better sculptor if you focus on your first piece. Then learn to mold it, and cast it with some material.
I try to answer every question on my channel's comments. I will be here to help you starting molding once you are ready.
How to make it a sculpture if it melts and never hardens?
That is done by molding the clay sculpture and then using that mold for casting in resin or metal.
Fritz Hoppe
I see... THANKS FOR THE REPLY!
@@GameDevAraz sure! You can read about the molding & casting process here on my website: fritzhoppebronze.com/lost-wax-casting.html
Thanks for your help... going to give it a try never knew about heating it up ..even pouring it into a mold
Do you need to bake this clay or it get hard alone ?
It is oil based. So the colder it gets.. That harder the clay is. The warmer it gets... The softer (until melting at 100°F+). Room temps are you best working temps (60 - 75°F)
Do u have to bake the clay
Thanks, I will try it out. I am also trying Monster Clay.
Let us know how they both work out for you. They are both oil based, but they are different.
Monster clay is hands down, the best sculpting clay out there, and I have used them all.
Three years late but, what are your thoughts on monster clay? Have you tied it by any chance?
Edit: just went through more of your videos. It seems that you have tried monster clay would you say that the medium hardness is good for a beginner? Also would ylu say that monster clay is better than the clay in the video? Anyways i hope to hear from you soon.
Yes I have used monster clay. It is great for tiny textures and details because it does not stick to your tools as much as J-Mac. The Roma Plastilina also is less sticky, but you can get softer clay with the Roma.
It comes down to what you want to sculpt. I have been using J-Mac "soft" a lot this year because I have been sculpting large pieces.
If you are sculpting something with intricate tiny texture details.... Us Monster Medium.
If you are sculpting something large... Use J-Mac soft. Your hands and wallet will get worn out using the others.
If it is something with tiny limbs, fingers, legs, etc.... Use Roma Plastilina "Firm". It will hold itself up better.
So does it hardens permanently after finishing the scupture?
I’m soon going to be sculpting things like people. I’m struggling on trying to figure out what clay is best. Is “Sargent Art Plastilina Clay” good?
Any plastilina should be good. Some contain sulfur and others don't.
So maybe start with two different brands of plastilina. And stick with "soft" either way.
Thanks for this video. I'm having trouble with my current medium which is paper clay. I just made a detailed one and painted it but it's too fragile like a vase that it broke most of the time. I'll be considering a type 1 of the plastilina clay and look for one in my country. Thanks so much.
Do you want to harden the clay or mold it to cast a permanent sculpture?
I'm more into air-dry clay like the current one I'm using which is paper clay. I don't have plan to cast them on a mold (though that would be cool but I think it's more time-consuming and harder to make like in making toys since I've seen cast/molds also over the net). I like the part in your vid that type 1 can form fingers easily without breaking away that much, so that's why I decided it would be neat with my art projects.
@@laudydorado5245 Yes molding is very very time consuming. A great thing about oil based clay is it sticks to itself really well, but it can't be hardened. I'd recommend practicing with the oil based, then once you're satisfied with the sculpt... Try to duplicate it in a polymer.
The polymer won't be as easy to work with. But you can bake it in the oven to turn it into a permanent work of art. And of course the oil based clay can be reused to practice more.
@@FritzHoppe , I see so oil-based plastilina clay don't harden like air-dry paper clay. Do you also used acrylic paint or the textile paint? My paper clay works well with these two except for the rubber paint, which for some reason slides off the art piece.
@@laudydorado5245 yes it does not harden, which is why it is reusable. But it does last decades. We still use oil based clay from 20 years ago.
If you're paint is falling off, try a coat of gesso around the entire piece. It works as a very strong primer. Otherwise you'll have to invest in better paints.
I just bought a 2 lb block at a garage sell for a buck, it's called SARGENT ART PLASTILINA. Just gonna try my touch at it, I'm an artist and always wanted to try this form of art.
What do I do to harden it?
Just set it in your fridge or outside on a cold day. Or leave it in a cool room for an hour
@@FritzHoppe thx mate, I appreciate your time to answer me.
Hope too see much more from you.
Can you put that number onel on the oven then paint,?
How does this compare to Sculpy?
Completely different by it's chemical makeup. Sculpy is a polymer, while Roma Plastilina is an sulfur and oil-based clay. Roma is much easier to work with by far; however, you must mold it it to make a piece permanent. Sculpey can just be baked in the oven to harden. I have a video on sculpey if you would like to watch it: ruclips.net/video/FiRNxr34G-I/видео.html
@@FritzHoppe I have only used sculpy, and bake it to paint, but I saw another video of a guy using Terracotta Plasticine Escultor, and he painted it in its moldable form it looked like with acrylic paints. I don't like how sculpy can get soft while working with it, and firm is too firm, so I am thinking of other options.
after you sculpt with this clay what do you do to make your work permanent?
I get this question very often. To understand how I use oil-based clay, please read about the full sculpting process used to create Fibonacci Fox here: fritzhoppebronze.com/fibonacci_fox.html
I will pin this comment, to help other understand how this clay is used.
The piece is molded, to create a hollow wax copy... which is cast into bronze metal through the lost wax process.
How do you prevent cure inhibition with this clay without using a polysulfide rubber mold?
sorry im new i wanted to make figures that i will give it to my boss as a gift... any tips what clay do i use and not braking....
You can reproduce the sculpt with a mold and alginate
I just opened a brand new package of Plastilina, just now, and the smell is, well...like confectionery sugar. In other words, I was pleasantly surprised. I like it so far.
Good luck sculpting!
huu Then it would make new real live comments. I got more like "choco ice" for the monster clay.
Parts size up to 20cm is it interesting to use medium?
How do you make a permanent piece from it? There is no way to harden it correct?
I may create a video on clays that can be "fired", but there is no way to harden roma plastilina modeling clay permanently.
The sculptor must mold the clay figure, then reproduce it in wax using the rubber mold. Then after that... form a ceramic shell around the figure and pour molten metal into this shell (with the reproduced sculpture inside). This is called the lost wax method because the wax figure melts and is replaced by the molten metal.
Check out worldtraveler channel on RUclips (actually commented below your comment here). He is the expert on this process and has in-depth videos on lost wax casting.
The
You can spray it with a sealer like crystal clear then mold in tin cure silicone after sealed and mold release has been applied. Or if you plan to reproduce the sculpture in silicone then you can make a two part mold in UltraCal or plaster
whats the best modelling clay that air dries, or that you can bake?
@@marilyn8225 275 for 15 minutes and can be painted with acrylics
Hi Fritz thanks for your explain about video, do you have any wax clay making receipt ? could you give any wax clay making reveipt, if you do not mind? I would like to make it..
This was sooooo helpful thank you so much!
Is this the same clay used for making fiberglass molds from scratch?
You can certainly create fiberglass molds, as long as the molding materials are compatible with sulfur. If not, sculpt with J-Mac: ruclips.net/video/ZUDGJxosF6k/видео.html
Super good explanation!!
😊 thanks.
I only have plastic sculpting tool will it work?
After you finish a sculpture how you can finish it and make it stay hard ?
I mold my pieces before continuing with lost wax casting. There are some polymer clays that will harden when you bake them, but they are much more expensive and difficult to work in your hands or with tools. I would suggest practices with an oil-based clay, then perhaps you can mold it if you really like a piece. Polymer clay could be pressed into the mold, preserving the detail. Then it could put into the oven to harden (and you may reuse your oil based clay!)
Hi from costa Rica you pronounsed plastilina right
That's good to hear! Appreciate that. I also hear it pronounced/spelled in a few different ways, for some reason.
Will this work with lost wax casting for rings?
This material will work great, but you will have to mold your clay sculpture. This will allow you to duplicate it in wax. That wax duplication is what you would use for lost wax casting.
Also, the roma usually doesn't work with silicon rubbers because it contains sulfur. So be sure to mold your piece using a material that is compatible with the clay.
Hi, love your videos. So to harden it it has to be below a certain temperature? If it heats back up will it turn soft again or it will just stay solid?
Thanks! The clay will harden around room temperature (70° F) and it will soften again as temperature rises. This is not a polymer. This clay is very easy to practice with, but there is no way to cure it.
What's the difference between Plastilina and Plasticine?
Would dad clay be a bad idea for sculpting figure?
Hi, Hey why do artist mix bees wax with this clay?
I believe this is done to save costs. Personally, I don't think it is worth the time. For some people though, they are in no hurry and enjoy DIY projects.
Knowing exactly how your clay will behave in certain temperatures is important, so sticking with with professional clay is a better choice for the serious sculptor. If you want to learn more about mixing bees wax with oil based clay, there is some interesting info here: www.reddit.com/r/Sculpture/comments/6fvvj2/my_homemade_plasticine_recipe/
If you mix oil clay with wax you will get a more permanent material, I think some brands already have some wax in their mix
MASHAALLAH khub valo video
Hello Sir, may I ask where to order that clay?
It’s on Amazon in the description 😄
is porcelain clay good to use for sculpting?
Unfortunately I am not too familiar with porclain clay. I do know that any clay that hardens (when you cook it) is going to be more difficult to work with than oil based clay.
Look great thanks I'm going to try that...
Does it come in colors and how long and what temp do you bake it
The ROMA comes in the grey/green and white. You do NOT bake this clay - it is wax and oil based and will melt. One must make a mold of the sculpture created and then cast the piece for a permanent sculpture. Then the ROMA can be reused for another sculpture
Chavant Castilene /NSP both come in soft- medium- hard .
I do not currently use Chavant clay, but I know it is a very reputable brand.
Any brand recommendation for bake type f clays? Thank you!!
Definitely sculpey. I remember using it when I was a little kid. You can bake it in your oven to make it hard as a rock. You can get a box of it on Amazon, here's my affiliate link: amzn.to/2SkYp7w
You can go with ceramics, but they needed to be heated in very high temperature kilns. Sculpey is much more affordable and practical if you are starting out.
Is epoxy clay good?
It is difficult to sculpt but "epoxie sculpt" and others are great products. They can be very strong.
@@FritzHoppe thnx fr d information
Is it like nonameclay?
Yes very similar, except Roma Plastilina has sulfur in it (which is supposed to allow for smoother finish).
@@FritzHoppe i see...ok great. Thanks fro replying
The best clay comes from the earth.
OMG I NEED THAT SOOOOOOOOOOOOOO MUCH!
In the description, I have provided some Amazon links to the clay. I will occasionally promote some of the supplies I use on my channel. Hope this helps!
rick baker said monsterclay gray medium fell like roma plastilina
How to make clay at home
Actually is or is a play like that it's called sculpting firm
If you've never tried anything else, how can you say this is best?
Well I suppose it really depends on what your goals are with the clay. I have tried different types of oil-based clay of different hardness. The Roma has excellent consistency without being so sticky (artists will choose it over others because you can achieve a smooth finish). It does contain sulfur, so keep that in mind if you want to mold the sculpture.
Roma is around $15 bux for a brick, so you're not out much if you don't like it. You can try J-Mac (similar but sulfur free) or monster clay (no stickyness for extreme details, but more pricey)...
or you can try polymer (not even close to Roma or J-Mac) if you want to put the sculpture in the oven at the end and bake.
What do exactly do you want to do with clay?
And do you want to mold your piece when it's finished?
Is this clay good for the final project since it never dries?
i keep seeing this stuff recommended and i’ve been wondering the same thing. i cannot seem to find any answers that are definite. what i can imagine is potentially cooling the final piece down so that it becomes very hard, then casting a mold from it (using a non-heating mold material) and from there casting a finished product out of something hard. this seems like a whole lot of trouble for some firm clay when there are firm polymer clays out there that probably work just as well. the fact that this person immediately says “i’ve never tried other clays” tells me that this video is not a great source. good luck!
That’s what I was wondering,,if you can take a mold of your finished sculpture using silicone.? Or would it not be hard enough? And would brushing on the silicone make heat and distort the detail of the sculpture and end up with a failed mold of the sculpture? I used air dry clay and I’m getting some cracking on my sculpture, but I will go back and fix them with a little water and clay. I hope once it’s dry I can make a good mold of my sculpture..👍🏽🙏🏽
It’s frustrating not getting an opinion from this RUclipsr. Still waiting…
Maybe someone else will see our comments and help. I can only hope 😉
@@TracyHutchinsonLifeSkillsCoach yes true…😳🤷♂️
For me fiber castle clay will do haha
If you’ve never tried another clay, how do you know this is the best? A better title would be the clay that you’ve used, not the best because you have nothing to compare it to.
It really comes down to what your objective is sculpting. This is the best quality, but all top clays have different aspects.
Edit: I have tried many different clays. Oil based clays are the best. Just do your research on how to mold them if you choose to cast sculptures in a permanent material.
Monster clay
You might like my video on melting monster clay: ruclips.net/video/mvacUvaV0E0/видео.html
Chavant clayette
No offense but you are saying this is the best clay despite never having tried other clays, it's like saying you the only girl you slept with is the best in bed ;) . I doubt it (it's a great product I agree and ONE of the best) . NSP clays are also oil-based and excellent therefore there are a few good ones. Also it depends what you want to do. This clay is not good to make limited edition sculptures but it's good for molding. You can reuse it that's also a plus and its pleasant to work with. My point is you need different clays for different jobs
Yeah it really depends on what you want to use it for. You can mold this clay though, but you must use a rubber mold that is compatible with sulfur. Polytek's website covers all of that. I almost always use Polytek's materials (yes they are pricey) because their molds don't decay.
For someone who just wants to sculpt for fun or practice, this is probably the best. It's smoother and not quite as sticky as the others, but a little easier to work with the hands than something like monster clay (which probably rivals this as the all-around best). I have discovered that most of my viewers are watching my videos to learn beginner information. A beginner really should try different clays, while always testing the compatibility of any mold materials on a small piece of clay before molding a completed work of art.
Huge con. its not sulphur free so you cant mold it with silicone. I reccomend chavant nsp if your looking to mold in silicone
This product is so costly.....
I was in pottery course and realised I was more into sculpting. I wonder what is best clay for sculpting without kiln.
It depends on what you want to do with it. If you want to make molds of your sculptures and cast the sculpture into other material, regular pottery clay that you carefully keep wet after use and never fire can work just fine, or you can use air dry clay that you are careful to keep damp while you are using it, or plasticine (make sure it is sulfur free if you are ever going to use silicone molds) works wonderfully for making sculptures that you are going to make a mold of. If you want to make something and have it air dry, know that it cannot be use for serving food or containing water, but you can make sculptures that you can “cold finish” with acrylics, tempura, oil, pastels, spray paint, and seal with a paste tile wax like Trewax (my favorite, made out of carnauba wax) or a marine based epoxy sealer- though you have to know, no matter what the sealers say, there are no sealers (other than wax) on the market that won’t start to yellow in about 20 years or less if in sunlight at all. Just an FYI. Google cold finish sculpture and you will find a lot of information. Also google air dry clay (something I’m not very familiar with as I never use it) to learn more about it, there are some that you can buy at pottery suppliers that are better quality and work more like real pottery clay, and they feel like it, take water like it, and don’t dry until you stop keeping it damp. I would recommend those over something like Creative Paperclay (which is mostly plastic/resin). Check out the r/Sculpture subreddit on Reddit- while I am not a big fan of Reddit in general, the sculpture and pottery subreddits have really nice people on them who are very helpful. If you do some keyword searches within the sculpture subreddit you will come upon a lot of information on which plasticines are the best to use (no, Monster Clay is really not the best and it is very overpriced) and a lot of information on clays that are not used in kilns. The other thing you can look into, if you are not trying to make functional dinnerware, but just sculptures, is using pottery clay and doing pitfiring, barrel firing, or Raku, which are simple ways to fire pottery without a kiln (but it doesn’t make the pottery safe for eating or drinking with) but is perfect for a lot of sculptures! Ceramic Arts Network has some great articles on pitfiring, barrel firing, and Raku. They even have a way to do pitfiring using a charcoal grill!
Do you fire oil based clay like this? Or if you unfire it will it dry hard?
Oil based clay is very easy to work with, but it cannot be hardened. Creating a mold of the finished piece allows the artist to proceed with casting in metal, resin, etc.
You can sculpt in a polymer, which can be hardened, but it is not as easy to work with.
What is unfiring?