Insulating Internal Walls. Easy DIY Solution
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- Опубликовано: 21 ноя 2023
- This is an easy to follow how to guide for insulating internal walls. It will get rid of cold spots on walls and reduce condensation and mould build up.
In this video I am applying ultrotherm insulation panels to the inside of an external wall and a chimney breast. The aim is to keep the inside of the wall warm and prevent mould and mildew from forming.
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The reason you have mould is moisture in the air that you need to get rid of. Older houses were more draughty but this helped to remove air moisture. Our houses are so well insulated these days that the moisture tends not to be dispelled. We also have a 1930 cottage which until about a year ago had the same problems everyone else is facing. We had stopped up all the draughty spots and insulated but this led to mould in areas where there is little to no air flow and also to condensation on the inside of windows which by the way are relatively new.
The answer for us was to fit a PIV unit. This stands for Positive Input Ventilation. Almost instantly we noticed the difference. The window condensation was gone within a couple of days and we have completely eliminated all mould growth (after cleaning away any that was there prior to fitting the PIV).
The manufacturers say you need an electrician to fit one hardwired in. However, I contacted the company we bought ours from who admitted that it will run quite happily off a 13 amp socket fitted with the appropriate fuse. Most people don’t have a 13 amp socked in their loft (where the PIV is fitted) so that why they say you need an electrician - we did have a socket already in ours so we just used that. I fitted the PIV myself in under and hour which was really easy.
Honesty, if you have the kind of problems shown in this video, a PIV is what is needed to fix it. I still think the insulation is a good idea though as it will help keep the house warmer. Hope this helps someone. 🙂
Sure helped me, thank you
Did you have to vent the unit in the attic?
The problem you are suffering is too much humidity in the air and cold spots that are below the dew point. When the warm moist air hits the cold spots the water condenses onto that surface. The PIV systems people are talking about pull in cold air from the outside that is lower humidity then it’s warmed up and it pulls some of the humidity out of the air and will push some of the existing air out of the house via any gaps.
Other people have talked about dehumidifiers. These are quite good and will produce a little heat in addition to pulling out water out of the air, but the do cost a fair bit to run.
The problem with insulation on the walls is the temperature will drop behind the insulation and you could then end up with interstitial condensation. This is why people use moisture barriers on the warm side of insulation to reduce the passage of moist air into the insulation.
Things to be wary of.
Drying clothes inside on rads
Showers
Boiling kettles
Cooking.
If you are going to dry clothes indoors then a dehumidifier is a must and will dry them quicker anyway.
Shower get a big extractor fan not one of the small wall based ones an in line one and make sure your door to the bathroom has plenty of gaps to let air in. If the air can’t get in easily then it won’t extract much air.
Boiling kettles, when you’ve used it poor cold water into the kettle to stop it steaming.
Cooking, make sure your extractor fan works and if it dosnt go to the outside then get one fitted that does. A. Internal venting one is no use.
Great video, make sure you do a follow up after winter.
PIV systems are great in spring and autumn, but I've found they cause nothing but problems in the summer and winter - in the summer they drag in hot air from either outside or your loft (and if it's your loft which is common it is so much worse still) and in winter you have to either pump cold air in or spend a lot inefficiently heating the air. If you're gonna retrofit a system like that (and tbh as we insulate and seal older houses we should) you're better off spending a little extra on a heat recovery system for not a whole lot much more money, you can buy kits that come with a design service to make sure you're doing it right.
Towels are bad too. I use an artificial chamois to dry myself. When I wring it out tons of water comes out that would have otherwise sat in the air as the towel dried.
Very interesting. I wonder if you have noticed any difference in the temperatures in the room since doing that? The cost of heating is killing us all. Here in Ireland our government issued a leaflet explaining why the heating costs had risen so much. Apparently it's because of the war with Ukraine and Russia. Interesting enough they didn't allocate any blame to the fact that they (the irish government) increased the fuel tax by 600% in one year. 600%??? I mean seriously. So many old folk sitting at home with layers of blankets on them because they can't afford to turn the heating on. Is that what they worked decades and paid taxes for? I don't bloody think so. Oh it makes me mad.
I bet all the immigrants living in any type of accommodation don’t have to worry about being cold.
or mould...............or anything else come to that - food, heating, cloths, phones, blah blah blah. Wish I was a refuge.
While that isn't helping the real cause is the lunacy around net zero and the fake climate science.
@@grantcook5376are you serious? Do you think they live in special alien built housing without any damp, cold?
The rich ruthless shareholders who steer the corrupt politicians are the real problem because they are the reason for greedflation, the reason all our bills are so high now. Those dirty ruthless rich and the corrupt politicians are also the reason why wages are low.
Immigrants aren't putting up your bills. Are they?
Immigrants are living in the same type of badly insulated housing as we are. And they usually earn less money. And often they come from warmer countries so they feel the cold even more than we do.
Please think about where your money is really going, and who is getting your money, and how they use corrupt politicians to do this.
The 100s of Tories who enable this scandalous rip off need to be facing criminal charges and long sentences in prison because they've acted against the people.
Enough is enough.
I have said this myself another amount of money we are pay not just on heating but on food prices have gone up practically doubled just so the government can fund a war but we suffer the cost of funding it the government doesn’t care about the prices because they make a fortune on the vat
Interesting product! It'd be good if you could film an update in a few months to see how you get on with it!
Well, leave it a year and then check it. Don't be too optimistic will you.
@@ironimp1 Yes, because the summer won't be a problem. Update during next winter!
Your main issue is humidity, and that is best handled by installing an air exchange or dehumidifier. The starting point is to purchase a cheap humidity meter so you can quantify the problem. The wall insulation has itself not solved the problem, but rather it has solved the consequences of the problem in a certain area of the house.
Finally a good video on this topic. Thank you you have another subscriber
brilliant mate, you make DIY so doable. 👍
My home is well insulated, inside and out. I’ve used Wallrock thermal liner and cavity wall insulation, have extractor fans in the bathroom and kitchen. The house now warms quickly and stays warm but I still had window condensation and also condensation dripping from exposed chromed pipes in the bathroom. I purchased a recommended (Russell Hobbs) dehumidifier and now regularly take 6-8 litres of water out of the air daily. All condensation is gone. For me it was the way to go.
Install a ventilator cowl to your chimney pot, if it hasn't been done already. It'll help eliminate water ingress and allow the existing flue to continually breathe. If its currently capped there can be condensation building up within the flue, escaping through the interior walls. I talk from experience, living in a victorian home. This solved a big problem for me and saved me a lot of money too. Let old buildings breath as they should.
Great content by the way. Well presented. Keep it up
Smart. Great simple efective presentation.
Everyone talking about how he should reduce the humidity in the house are missing the point - he probably knows this!
This video is more to show this really good, simple product which we can insulate our external walls with and would stop the water vapour condensing on the wall, which the mould then grows on.
It won't fix the windows though. Dead obvious he has a humidity problem. The insides of windows should never look like that.
Great stuff.
Excellent video, thanks very much.
You're welcome
Thanks for the video, I live in a 220 year old cottage with sandstone and brick walls without any cavity. This product might just be the way forward in certain areas.
dehumidifiers are good and not very expensive to run. Its a common problem particularly in bedrooms . Lots of "water" produced overnight with little or no ventilation but mainly the door is closed making things much worse. Opposite with kitchens and bathrooms where doors should be kept closed and extraction fans fitted
Wie have in germany something called: Ytong Multipor
Ytong is the Brand and Multipor is the Produktname. This stuff is awesome.
I used it in a wet Basement.
This stuff is so good for thermal insulation. The best thing about it isn't the thermal insulation, but rather the fact that it can absorb an enormous amount of water and moisture.
The wall underneath can still breathe completely and is open to diffusion. Mold is not possible because the PH value is too high. Combined with automatic ventilation or occasional ventilation with an open window, Multipor is unbeatable. This is the Ferarri under the diffusion-open insulation in Germany.
Thanks for this. Will check it out!
👍👍👍.Thank you
Cold and hungry.....Grate Britain!
PIV unit......!!!!!! We had all of these issues. Had all manor of things done to try and combat it to no avail. Wasting money and not good for your moral.
Had a damp surveyor in and he advised a PIV unit and constant flow extractors in the bathroom and kitchen.
Literally overnight condensation cured!!! We are totally amazed to say the least but more importantly relieved
I doubt if the problem is solved. It will just form behind the product, out of sight until it accumulates to the point where it escapes from the wet wall. Condensation will be discouraged at the treated surface but will gather at other points that are below the dew point. No product that is affordable will do much at that thickness! The solution: dehumidify, ventilate when frosty, add heat when possible, expose external walls, keep air moving at the surface. Better still, insulate externally and vent the chimney.😊
As pthers have said, get a PIV system but make sure its with the small heater. Uses minimal electricity and will resolve these issues a lot easier and do the whole house.
The warmer the house the more moisture air holds
I would spray the mold cleaner onto a cloth to clean. A vacuum could push mold spores into the air as they are microscopic. Use gloves eye protection and a mask when doing this. My thoughts, you have dampness build up. This comes from your breath. Get a dehumidifier because the humidity will still continue to increase and find new places to condensate. It does seem like a solution for areas like cold outside walls which I am considering.
mould is causwd by moisture in the air - get a dehumidifier set to 40-60% moisture and your mould will not grow as the air is to dry.
Get a Nuaire Drimaster, best thing I ever fitted and it solved our issues with damp and mould, similar age house. Well within your capabilities to fit.
Absolutely this ,best buy we ever made , the cool air it blows out is a pain but it completely eradicates any condensation
Is this PIV?
Yes, Nuaire do a range of PIV units. They're not cheap (ours was ~£730 fitted) but it's definitely been effective in our property at helping with condensation. If it's something you are considering I would recommend spending the extra on the version with the built-in heater. Whilst this isn't a house heating method (aka it won't make the house feel any warmer) it tempers the air being drawn in from the loft so that it doesn't feel as cold. It turns on and off automatically if the air temperature at the unit is below a set point. @@amykennedy4808
Had exactly the same problem ,lost all my run of robes,moved new robes to inside wall no more problems,outside walls are the problem unless you do what you have done,also having problem in the kitchen ,stuck insulation behind outside wall units ,also if you tile the floors always put a moisture barrier on concrete floor before tiling with insulation as we'll as the floor gets realy cold in winter causing damp to rise
As lots of people have already commented the problem is the Relative Humidity/amount of water in the air, not because of a cold wall.
The reason you didn't get mould when you had the house at a steady 21 degrees C is because warm air can hold MUCH more water than colder air. Look up so "Relative Humidity" charts for reference, a Relative Humidity of 90% at 21C is massively different to 90% at 10C.
Theres nothing wrong with insulating a cold wall & it may or may not stop the water condensation behind the wardrobes but that water will need to drop out of the air somewhere once RH reaches a certain level & it will just do that on the next coldest surfaces unless you get rid of the actual water via ventilation or dehumidifying.
Most people will recommend a PIV but personally I prefer not to pump cold air at outdoor winter temperatures into my house so I always use Heat Recovery Units & I also have a couple of single room dehumidifiers on standby just in case they are needed.
You could have tried insulating paint I found that worked really well
Heat and ventilation is the way.
Chimney stacks must have air flow/ventilation. If you block up fireplaces you MUST install air vents where the fireplace was to allow air in into the stack. Seal a stack up and it just becomes a damp festering void, and that moisture will penetrate the brickwork, and hey presto - damp/mould on the internal walls.
Just cap the chimney.
There still needs to be some airflow.
@@maxthelab8457 Why? It's no different to an exterior wall.
how did you come to that ???
Erfurt make a 7mm thick XPS panel that is more rigid than this stuff (and about the same dimensions otherwise), costs about 23 quid for 4 square meters, and you can put the adhesive on with a brush which makes the job much simpler for a DIYer, and they perform great. These look like they will work well if you can hide them or plasterboard over the top of them (but if you were doing that I don't know why you wouldn't just use XPS or PU-backed plasterboard). The Erfurt XPS panels are fire retardant treated and you can paint over them directly or just put lining paper over and paint or paper that. I've only used them for ceilings in a trouble spot, but they've been great for that and should work fairly well used on a wall here or there.
Well, this video is promoted and I expect this stuff to be quite expensive. XPS is quite cheap and it feels nice and warm to the touch.
I was looking at this too.
Did you have any trouble levelling them? I would paint directly over them but I'm worried the lines where they joined together will be visible?
Did you get them from gowallpaper?
Thanks
I think you need a decent dehumidifier, those moisture traps are useless your not getting the water out the air, Charlie DIY does a video on this. Use a proper plug in dehumidifier and you will see results.. yes chimney would be a cold spot but without taking the water out the air it will just condensate elsewhere
I agree. Charlie did a great video. Get a cheap air monitor and check the humidity level because you may find that it's really high and you probably didn't notice it before because warm air can hold more moisture and now since the room is cooler you are reaching saturation alot sooner. Anyway as suggested a dehumidifier will help
@@asif530 mine was up to like 85/90%
Now it’s around 65% in the winter with the dehumidifier, massive difference pulling 2L plus out the air daily… showers/cooking/breathing and drying clothes in houses when the windows are closed causing massive issues people think heating the house will solve it. Completely wrong
@@liam_j82 that's good. I have monitors placed in a few different places and luckily with a few changes I'm able to maintain around 50 % humidity . As its relative humidity it does creep up on occasions
this is why there should be a decent gap between the backpanel and the wall, with a opening at the top.
There was a gap, I'd used a 25mm batten behind the middle one and there was alcoves behind the others.
I've always left air gaps behind wardrobes when I used to do it for a living and never had a problem like this.
It's a lot more work but you could remove most of the chimney, but maybe you're using it below.
The bottom of the wardrobes might need some ventilation space to allow the air to move up and down at the back of the wardrobe, to create a draft, airflow. Only having top ventilation means there's no draft. The cold wall will just get moisture from the air and it will sit there. The warmth and moisture grows the mould. Maybe having a ventilation at the bottom would help.
Just a thought but maybe a very small and thin radiator, or even just some copper piping, at the back of the wardrobe could be a help. Bend some piping into S shapes attached to the back wall, then back under the floor, join to the radiators.
Hope that this insulation board works.
Have you tried a dehumidifier? I'm tempted to try one.
May of help venting the chimney breast where the fire place used to be
very good work ! how much is this product ? thank you
Hi mate
After you done the installation is it any good?
Thanks
How Dunelm would you like your bedroom?
Yes.
The mould issue can be addressed with a dehumidifier not extra insulation. I have a feeling your house is already pretty well insulated.
Agreed that dehumidifier can help. Mould in the house is most commonly a ventilation issue (lack of). I recently installed a Positive Input Ventilation system in our house which has solved our mould and window condensation problems in our circa 1915 house - it's like a bloomin' miracle!
If they're heating the house to 21C at say 50% RH then it's gonna condense a lot inside the cold wardrobe.
The mould products are similar to a company called MGC. Unfortunately they work for a period of time but them mould will re appear if you create the right environment and don’t eradicate moisture condensing
Quick tip. I run a dehumidifier for the first three weeks that I start putting the heating on. The one I use is an EcoAir Classic. It's very good. I have very little condensation after that once my boiler is on the low and slow setting / top up method.
100% that moisture will just land elsewhere it needs pulling out the house with a dehumidifier or air system ventilation
@@liam_j82 The FixMyRoof video taught me about condensation. The water in the air is the issue, not so much the insulation. Actually warm air can hold more moisture than cold.
Did you make sure the chimney if not being used is topped off with a breathable vent to stop rain getting in!
👍
This will not solve the problem. The moisture will condense somewhere in your house overnight. You probably have extremely poor air quality indoors. (1) humidity meter £20 (2) open your windows at least once a day (3) open window after shower (4) open window after cooking (5) buy a dehumidifier. Insulating everywhere is excellent but if you don't then ventilate you will be maintaining extremely poor air quality and will suffer more respiratory diseases/headaches/poor sleep etc.,.
So does this insulation actually work well?
Any update on if this worked?
£50 m2 just for tiles, so £500-£600 to do that 1 wall, nice and easy to do though
Did he say servants bell? Sack them you will save thousands
🤣 I've got the bells but certainly no servants
Won't the damp come thru? I've got serious damp problem and government is doing my internal wall insulation I'm not sure what to do
Probably better to use 10mm PIR insulation then overboard with 12mm foil back plasterboard... wont help insulate the room but should stop condensation and cold bridging.
Mate - good luck with that.
But there's fundamentals here. Just like high-priced Skiing and Athletic gear manufacturers have spent millions developing "wicking" of moisture away from the body ( not always succeeding either) is because YOU HAVE TO HAVE AN AIR FLOW THAT TAKES THE DAMP AWAY. ...by trickle, or combinations of material, or studying air-flow in closed containers.
You have to address the differentials between 2, 3 or 5 materials, that are in proximity, in changing air conditions in your badly built house.
You are not really solving the fundamental of mould growth by sticking that aerated plastic carpet on your walls. You might get lucky and create a small improvement - but it's not a solution. The solution is hidden behind your plaster, batons, cold-bridges, trapped areas and bad building techniques....Always remember - mould spores can wreak havoc with young kid's lungs - and adult's.
all that mould will disperse round the room. Take the backings off and replace
You seem convinced that this vapour closed system will work for you; I am convince it won't. For anyone thinking of doing the same, first check with an independent (not a salesman) and ask them what they think.
Interesting product, but SERIOUSLY expensive - 10 of those foam pads, £260!!
Putting layers of adhesive and plastic on your walls will make little difference. You need to reduce the humidity in your house and get a regular change of air. Spend the money on a decent PIV ventilation system instead - dehumidifiers don’t treat the problem, they treat the symptoms. Good luck.
Not sure a out his system, but insulating the wall will help. It will make that wall warmer and as a result less likely to cause condensation. Obviously ventilation would make things easier and room healthier but insulation isnt stupid
Its all about ventilation. You have to have changes of air. It could be as simple as leaving a window open.
You vents in wardrobes top and bottom
Kingspan and instastik is cheaper and better products.
its the only way m8
Energy companies decided 🤣 not a big fun of energy companies but the bottom line is it wasn’t really their decision.
I'm positive this guy put on the wrong side, Hessian side should aways be adhesive side? No way you could plaster over that, unless you never touch the wall.
Iam a retired plasterer danny, and in my eyes it must be plaster borded and skimmed over top of the insulation , cannot see a thin coat of skimming holding that lot together, like you say slightest bump and there's a hole in the wall, a good coat of bonding plus skimming could possibly work but I would not trust that, make sure and board/ skim, . but then if you going to do all that,you might as well just get an insulated board with a barrier built-in, half the work and half the price, and a much better job imo.
I literally went live 3 days ago electric was put on ( new build)
I got a bill £72 🤨
A standing charge … then I got another bill after paying the first one £25 wtf?!
Lol, so f#£k the planet, pour out the Co2 whilst prices cheap.
Tip. Women are Always cold