I bought the Omnia yesterday (NEW). Set Center Shot then Paper Tuned. 1st Shot 1/2" Left Tear. Used S.E.T. 1/2 Turn both Top and Bottom - PERFECT Bullet Hole. Finest Bow I've shot to date...and it's a FIRE BREATHER !! Hope it helps, John
Mine has been super easy to tune. I go back and forth between target arrows, hunting, and long range arrows, which means that I shoot a lot of paper. Zero set the cams and rest, and the tune is SUPER EASY and fast. If you’re struggling with left & right tears then the issue is your grip.
Just a heads up for everyone. The manual for this bow recommends 7/8 for center shot, not 13/16. That is throwing a lot of people off. The bow looks great though brother! I love mine.
Where is it in manual that it says 7/8? Mine does not say either. It says to check center shot by placing an arrow on riser and checking it is parallel to nocked arrow. G
I set my omnia at 15/16" from the riser and dead level thru the berger button and it shot bullet holes the first shot. I feel you pain I spent a bunch of time tuning my hoyt carbon defiant turbo and just spent 20+hrs tuning a hoyt rx4. The rx4 pissed me so much I almost sold it, I had to play with running the cams hot, adjusting the knocking point, and yoke tuning. I can assure you its not my form. I also tuned my mathew's traverse rather quickly. As my grip changed for the better I just re-paper tuned my omnia and I micro adjusted my hamskea trinity rest and its bullet hole's all day. I get slight cable rub on the bottom cam but after 500 shots you cannot tell where the cam hits the cable. I will eventually break it down and check the limbs but I absolutely love the omnia and after messing with hoyt bows for days I will gladly spend an hour looking into my omnia.
Didn't have any issues with mine or the 7 I've tuned for people but everyone's different . Glad you got it figured out now . I will say the grip is alot different then it has been in the past .
It is very grip sensitive but I was getting the same consistent issue. I could clean it up, but it lead to other problems, like the excessive cam lean.
Mate of mine had dramas with a persistent tear with SET out of the box and 7/8 centre shot. . In the end he ignored the SET centre marks on the stickers and a found the actual midpoints by moving them each way to their end stops and splitting the difference on the adjuster screws. Centre shot was then set ignoring any measurement and instead setting an arrow in the rest dead parallel to a reference one held against the riser ie. square to the riser for that string position. Cable guard set for minimum fletching clearance. Then got bullet holes and only had to use a tiny bit of SET for fixed blade broadhead tuning.
Yup... I've had my omnia since December and IM STILL FIGHTING IT! I've done the limb swap, shimmed cams, and changed arrows 3 times! Very grip sensitive. I'll shoot a nice 2-3" group at 60 then get a crazy flyer. I really like the performance but at this point I'd rather have an ss34.
my omnia is the most accurate bow I own. Seems elite had a volume of sales they never had and rushed the omnia out the door. I wish you good luck because the omnia is an amazing bow when its running good.
@@charelflorence I just traded my omnia for a bowtech ss34. I got bare shafts touching fletched arrows within 10 shots... Without my bowtechs help. Very impressed.
I need to check my limbs now lol I've had the same exact problem but with the Kure. I got it to tune but it took weeks. So now I'll check limbs and restart lol thanks for the info
My omnia had the cable rub issue but my bowshop had it cleaned up quickly. Mine tuned a smidge off centershot. I found it was very sensitive to hand position as well as my stabilizers. Ended up taking off my stabs and just using the stubby and it’s helped tremendously
First person to hit on the problem, grip torque. The best thing I can tell someone about diagnosing tuning issues is to have someone take pictures from behind you when you are at full draw and see if the string is coming off the cam in a straight line. If you are imparting torque the string will be coming off at an angle, usually away from your bow hand. Elite has always been sensitive to grip torque and I have helped dozens of people solve their tuning problems without ever touching the bow. Hope this helps someone
@@mountainmancaraway6431 the only way I could get the top cam to be in line with the main string was to grip the riser and torque it to the left. A neutral grip wouldn’t get me there.
@jeff it's all how the bow sits in your grip. There's a really good video somewhere on here that a guy explains the best way to set your hand on one of those old elite grips and it's probably one of the best grip videos I've seen. I'm not disputing you know how your grip feels or that you know what you need to do but I've seen so many times people tweak and move stuff all around on these elites and it usually ends up being a grip fix. If you have it shooting good and it walk back and broadhead tunes then consider it good and enjoy shooting it. If after a week or two you start seeing arrow flight concerns I would set everything to factory centershot and go back to the grip. Hope it works out for you
The Enkore has the same issue. Hard right tear. Tuning it out caused cable rub. Shim right, now i have a hard left tear, it was a pain to tune it out without getting fletching contact. Also the SET seems unstable. If i unlock and move the SET screws, even returning them to the same spot, it throws the bow way out of tune. There are SO MANY people complaining about tuning issues, but if i call Elite, they've never heard of it. Even if it's not my first time calling about it...
Was going to look at one this season when I bought my new bow and it shot fine. I had kind of been lured in by its ability to adjust without the bow press and all the amazing reviews. However, while I was talking to the owner he said their customer service was awful. While we were having the conversation another customer walks out of the shop and he leaves. The owner says, that guy has been waiting 3 weeks for Elite to send a replacement part on a warranty on an Omnia he just bought in February and I can’t get a call back from the Elite rep. That was all I needed. Out of contention. We all tend to get caught up in New Bow hype but we also forget that brand new features also means untested technology. Better to let a system get kinks worked out over a few seasons in new tech IMO.. Also, may have just been the pink strings
I was able to tune my Omnia relatively easy but my cable was rubbing bottom cam. I shimmed my cam .020 towards the cable it was rubbing on and that fixed the rubbing. It tuned in 3 shots after that. It should have very little cam lean at rest and full draw. I have heard of them getting the limb deflection messed up on some of these Omnia bows. That sucks, sorry you had to go through so much frustration. It is a great shooting bow when it's right.
I had all these same issues and it sucks trying to get it tuned, once you get it dialed in its a tac driver! Wish it had come from the factory set up correctly.
Woof… depends. If it’s anything like this Omnia?! Maybe not. But we will see how this thing shoot and maybe a Verdict will become my indoor bow for the 2024 season
Jeff, I bought a prime revex 2 this year. I was curious if you have ever shot one or know anything about them. I love the bow and love how it shoots but I can't get it tuned to save my life. My local bow shop has been no help and I just wanted to discuss this with you if you had the time.
Thanks for making this video!! I couldn't get the right tune out of mine. Limb swap, shimming, changing center shot to 7/8, nothing but right tears. Took it back to my Archery shop and we spent 5 hours trying to get the right tear out with NO luck.! Finally the archery shop called Elite and we did a warranty return. I'm supposed to have the bow back next week, so we'll see if they did anything to it. If you have a shorter draw length, you probably won't have as much trouble, but I'm a 29.5 to 30 and on this bow the cable rubbing is awful!!
When you took this bow apart how many total shims are on the top and bottom cam?...my bottom cam has 4 shims, 2 are the same size, one is slightly thinner, and than there is a paper thin one. My top cam has 3 shims, 2 are the same size, and the other is slightly thinner. I am struggling to get this thing to tune and get rid of cable rub at full draw. Seemed like what I read on line there should only be 6 shims not the 7 that came with my bow?
Thanks for making this video. I'm going thru the same thing now with my new Omnia. I'm starting to regret the purchase. Hopefully I can get it worked out.
@@jeffcordero_ my Elite dealer shoots bullet holes with it on paper and Im getting nock right tears so I'll be working on my form and making some adjustments on grip before I have him rearranging the limbs.
Yeah my ERA was frustrating also. Elite advertises them as simple to tune with SET. The truth with many of these bows is, 1. Shim the cams as needed 2. Adjust the rest for center shot 3. Then use set for fine tuning.
Total opposite of my experience with the Omnia. Got bullet hole in 3 shots. And it's so forgiving it bullet holes multiple models and diameter arrows without any adjustments.
Ised both the SET and the cable slide to tune the bow . The cable slide you need to bow press to take the tension of the cable but you can lean the cames to get a right or left tear out and used the SET. So instead of using a 1/2 use a 1/4 turn on set and then move the roller garde left or right See if that helps . SET can have the cams lean to much so they rub the bus cables
Bought an Enkore couple of years ago and had a bad left tear( I’m a lefty). Tried everything I can possibly fix myself, didn’t work. Sent it back to the dealer, and they teamed up with an Elite tech to fix my problem. They even changed limb deflection like you did. They finally sent me the bow telling me “it’s better but still not perfect… this is the best we can do”! Did not offer me to exchange it… I know it was probably a lemon but no more Elites for me even if I know they are great bows😂
I have a similar problem with my hoyt vtm 31 right now . My top cam is leaning right pretty hard and my right limb is about 1/8” lower than left. I’m pretty new to this stuff so figuring it out is tough. Right tear i can get to go away by moving my rest to 13/16 but then it is wayyyyyyy out of center shot points to left field. And no matter what i cant get rid of high tear.
I read all the issues and feel like I shouldn't be ordering one soon, but then I remember the pain we had with 2019 Obsessions and it was identical stuff. Limb swaps, shims, hours messing around but eventually it got there.
Thank you for making this Jeff!! Same issues and same bow. We spoke in instagram a bit. For those interested in this bow, be prepared to fight this bow to get it to shoot properly, but once you do it shoots great. I did by the way have to swap limbs and re shim too. What a nightmare for a new bow.
Mine shot bullet holes at factor spec and it cant be worse than the two hoyts I spent days tuning including hours of press time to get the hoyts dialed in. I had to play with cam timing, d loop height, and yoke tuning for days to get my two hoyts to shoot correclty. Thankfully I made a press for like 30$ from an archery talk post and the press will safely do past parallel bows(which I own) as it locks into the riser.
No problem with mine, I did move the cable guard over right out of the box too. do notice it’s easy to not be consistent on the grip! One sweet bow though
Had the same problem with my Elite Remedy bow. My cams were leaning so hard every shot I took I thought my bow was going to derail. Good to know I was not the only one struggling with this S.E.T technology. 😢
So, You set LTR to the right position (how far)? Center the SET top and bottom, and swapped the top limbs. This has me wanting to check mine on paper. I need a press,........
The LTR 3 hash marks, enough to clear any vane I shoot. I did tweak the SET just a tick to fine tune for broadheads. That worked for me. everyone is different with grip pressure etc... find what works
So I've been told the rubbing issue and tuning issue the bow still needs shimmed. That's how they fix the rubbing issue. Almost bought one, but like my sr6 more and the rubbing issue , I didn't want to spend the money.
I don’t. The bow company does and then writes the number or stamps it on the the limb. It’s almost always written on the part of the limb that’s in the limb pocket
I had the issue with my RH omnia but I move the LTR 1.5 marks to the left then I was able to use the SET to get the cable clearance and shoot bullet holes
I was pulling my hair out tuning my remedy , right tear was 2 inches long adjusted the set system till out of travel moved cable back to normal, nothing changed. 60 pound peak weight my arrows were full length 400 spine with 150 grain point ( victory rip ) yes too much point weight went to 100 grain now have left tear but not bad went bad adjusted set system for left tear now I have a bullet hole 😀 long story short , arrow Spine very important!
I'm right on the line of 300/250 with my shaft length and draw weight. I did load up the point weight to try and weaken the arrow and see if that was an issue but it didn't do hardly anything to fix the right tear. Its not a spine issue
@@jeffcordero_ Thanks Jeff. I maxed out the S.E.T. Counterclockwise for the tear. Shooting bullets holes now. I think I want to change the shims so I still have some adjustment in that direction. I called Elite last Friday and still waiting for a response. Thanks for the content.
I have a similar situation on an old stock PSE. I don’t have a press, and two shops couldn’t fix it. I mentioned it to the second shop on swapping the limbs around to get rid of the crazy cam lean it had, and they wouldn’t do it. Looks like I need to buy a press..
I like my CBE TL 3 pin slider. Top two pins are 19’s and bottom is a ten. Rheostat light. The best hunting sight I’ve ever used. Set at 25-35-45 yards. 👍👍
I've watched so many videos on this bow. Form small content creators to pro shooters. And this is the first I've heard of this happening with this bow. I've seen this bow with the outdoor life magazine bow of the year award this year.
Do some more research, this bow has had a LOT of tuning/cable rub issues. Look on archery talk too…this is a pretty common problem with the Elite bows with these cams.
@@jackbuendgen389 My bottom cam rubs the bottom cable but it didn't effect my paper tuning or accuracy and after 500+shots you will see the marks on the cables from the draw stops but not where the cam rubs. Is it right?, no absolutely not, would I choose another speed bow for 2023?, no. The omnia draw, valley, letoff, and shot is top notch and the speed rating is actual length unlike mathew's that run 3/8" long and hoyt that run 1/2" long. The omnia will chuck hunting arrows at phenomenal speeds.
Are you guys resetting your centershot after making the set adjustment? They work in conjunction with one another. When you move the set it moves your arrow towards your riser or away from your riser.
@@jeffcordero_ it is but it also shifts your center shot. They work together!!! Done this way I’ve NEVER had to move the LTR. I think there is a video on RUclips that Darrin Christenberry did a cpl years ago that explains how everything works. You just don’t see may videos that show that the rest needs to be moved as well.
@@jeffcordero_ I only asked because I was doing that last summer. Your paper looked closer than an arrow length to the target but it was probably just the angle
I like a nicely tuned bow but paper tears don't mean much. Just set center shot and sight in at 20 and do a walk back or do a french tune. Then go straight to broadhead tuning. Use the set technology for the broadhead tune.
That takes way too long...can paper tune in about 5 shots...nock tune....and then I can screw on any broad head I want... and I mean any fixed blade with no more required tuning
I’ve always had pretty good luck to 40 yards with a paper tune. Usually minimal adjusting to get broadheads out to 60, like a couple clicks on the rest minimal.
I got mine a few weeks ago. Literal pain in the ass. It took the bow shop 6 hours to get the left tear out. Im a lefty. Brought it home and bareshaft tuned at 30.. but at brace my arrow isnt square with my riser. I'm pretty close to selling it and going back to my v3x33
Just started following you, great video by the way. Like you I’m no master bow tuner, but have been playing with bows for close to 20yrs and consider myself a decent Archer. I have 2 Prime’s, 1 Mathews, 1 PSE and just bought an Elite Basin for my Daughter. Although the Basin does not have the S.E.T technology, or any of the other bells and whistles, like the higher end Elites , I have ran into some tuning issues myself. So any info on tuning I can find is great. I would have to disagree with some of the comments about checking your grip, From what you’ve described you were obviously getting the same tear over and over. If your grip was inconsistent it would have shown in the paper. By Having 1 limb with a higher deflection than the rest would definitely cause you to go down the rabbit hole of tuning. If your equipment is compromised, no amount of checking or changing your grip will help. Anyway, thought the video was great .👍
You dont...every bow company measures it differently...back when I built limbs we had a machine to put the limb in and attach a cable then pulled the limb and there was a digital readout....however that number didn't really correspond to anything at all...its not lbs or any kinda weight measurement...its kinda like we knew that the read out said 325 we knew that would make a 70lb bow...this was a major bow manufacture...I'm not a liberty to say which one
So glad you posted this. I bought my Omnia in January and still cannot get the right tear out of it. How did you measure the limb deflection? Is there a tool to do that?
Deflection numbers are marked on the limb... You just can't see them when the limbs are on the bow because they are usually hide under the limb pocket.
I was having issues with my mathew v3x I realized that if your knock is to tight on your d lool it won't turn well but if u give your knock just a little wiggle room it tunes so easy! Great bow by the way🤙
Noob here. Only been shooting a few months. Fought a terrible tear with the set tech. Found the hamskea was staying up too late. Adjusted and set the set tech back to stock. Shoots great. Mines left handed, so maybe the limbs were in the right spot.😅 I've found consistent proper form is critical. Set the ltr about 1/8th to clear the fletching. Had string rub at first. Flattening the serving somewhat. A couple hundred shots later, hasn't gotten any worse. Hope this helps somebody.
I listened to this and have absolutely no idea why you would have had an issue with it. I have two Elite flagship bows which includes the Omnia. both shot bullet holes out of the box. Tuning is super simple. I've also swapped modules in both bows and also have a second set of limbs for the Omnia. The same. Zero issues tuning and swaping these compared to the nightmare in tuning or modifying other compound bows that I've had. That said as well, I watch Steven Hand from Archery Supply in Australia who loves these and shoots these himself, very honest reviews, and he finds all of these that he sells to be the simplest for tuning of all the bows he's sold in his lifetime. So... I know you're a very knowledgeable person. So that's not it. Bought used??? I don't know. But when I listened to this all I could think was, "What the hell is he talking about? It makes no sense."
I had one of the first LH Omnia's and tuning was a literal PITFA!! Set my Epsilon to dead center (13/16") and I was getting a bad left tear. I tried cleaning it up with the SET but what people don't realize is if you go too far with the SET one direction or the other it's the same as moving your rest an insane amount one direction or the other. If you don't believe that, nock an arrow and stand over the bow, looking straight down over the top cam, line up the arrow with the limb bolts and look which or even how far the arrow is point one direction or the other. Gaining 1/4-1/2 turn on the SET is a lot and many don't know that. I even saw on AT where a guy moved his SET so far that he ran out of windage on his sight...so that gives you some idea of how far the arrow is pointing at brace! You are too good of a tuner, you know what you are doing, your grip is not an issue...it for SURE was the bow. I never did move my LTR out from center....,I guess I should have because that may have helped the other thing I hated and could not get over....the cables in my sight picture at full draw. I REALLY liked the bow. I loved the speed I got at my specs, I loved that I could should at 26.75" draw length vs 26.5" which was too short or 27" which was too long. GLAD you found that it was a limb, maybe they could send you another set of limbs for the top or at least one close to that deflection. But I bet you are too scared to break it down again....LOL!!🤣 Great video as always Jeff....enjoy your vids a LOT!!
Thanks Steve. I could get it to tune but it was way off like you mentioned. I had my sight way to far to the left and the cam lean scared me. So I knew I was going down an uncharted road, I’m just glad swapping the limbs and moving the LTR a little really cleaned up 90% of the issue I was having. It’s all good now!
I've had 16 hoyts, 5 Matthew's a few bowtechs n 2 elites....never ever had a problem tuning a single bow.....till this years hoyt VTM....I feel the pain 😂😂
It could maybe be the early production ones. I dont know for sure, because i havent bought one, but this might throw me off from buying it. Ss34 it is.
Same thing for me. I had a left tear that I couldn't get out. When I was all said and done, I had to switch around both set of limbs and shim spacers. Got it tuned now and it shoots great. Now i just need to figure out if i can switch the limb stop brackets because they are on the wrong side with the limb flip flop..
“ was it the bow?” Or is it you? ( lol). A friend of mine had a PSE SUPRA that was a nightmare. Finally, after literally 5 hours it was tuned. Only bow I’ve ever seen that bad.
Jeff I ordered one of these because of your success in tuning. Question for you, since you have shot the Hoyt VTM 34 how do these two compare in draw cycle?
Depends. If you lower your letoff adjustment on the Omnia to 80% ish the draw cycles and transitions into the backwall feel similar. The Omnia might just be a tick stiffer overall
Make sure your cams are not getting cable contact at full draw. Elite has had a serious problem shipping these bows with the weak limbs on the wrong side. The limbs are all different deflections, and they have been shipping them backwards…so that MAY be your problem, also this will cause cam/cable contact at full draw as well.
I commented before I watched much into the vid….and yes, they probably have the limb deflections backwards..which is ridiculous from a company like Elite. Loved this bow…but the issues a lot of people are having, including 2 of my friends…I’ll stick with Mathew’s and Hoyt…haven’t had any issues from any of my bows, and I have a couple from each.
I thought about it, but I did try adding a bunch of point weight at one point which will weaken the arrow spine and that didn't help, like 200gn of extra point weight. didnt help.
The one thing I didn't hear in your video is that you didn't move the arrow rest. I'm by no means,an expert but the first thing we used to do back in the 80s to tune until they started putting more adjustments into cams was to move the arrow rest. Alot of people are set on the 13/16th and won't move it thinking that's where it HAS to be.
I did move the rest very slightly. I'm no expert either, but I have always found the best success tuning the bow and using the arrow rest to clean up broadhead flight. That's always worked well for me.
LOVED your reply...I have a Mathews that WILL NOT shoot arrows straight with factory settings for the rest....moved mine nearly 1/4 inch TOWARDS the riser....all wrong? nope it now shoots bullets .wish I had read your reply months ago!!..
Let me say that I've never had any problems tuning a bow through paper ever I've shot every high end brand out there decided to buy my first elite this year omnia mine had gawd awful cam lean couldn't get it to clean a tear no matter what had them shim the cams ect still cams rubbed the cables like crazy wanted to love the bow but sold it won't own another elite again just because of my experience this was at 29 inch draw in fact the 5 other omnias at the shop had the same exact issue maybe it was first batch issue
I’ve shot a couple different Omnias and they all rubbed on the cable, I’m sure it could be tuned out but that combined with the hump at the end of the draw cycle made me buy another brand. There is a lot to like about the Omnia and I’d be interested to hear how yours does long term.
the dump into the valley is extreme compared to hoyt or pse but its on par with mathew's. I added felt to the draw stops initially but ended up switching to the limb stops. I will take the dump into an excellent valley and letoff over any other speed bow for 23 but that's personal preference of course. I shot the pse omen, hoyt twin turbo, omnia, and bowtech sr350 and found the omnia to have the best draw, valley, and letoff IMO.
Not saying this/was your issues. But to anyone watching this. make sure you don’t have hand torque on your grip. Bare shaft first before paper. If you bare shaft is big time tail right or left purposely torque both directions and watch your bare shaft swap side to side. If you toque your bow it will never tune. I learned this the hard way. Bare shaft is way better to start than paper. If you are shooting straight bare shafts at 20 yards. Who needs paper
I shoot target. None of my bows shoot a bullet hole. If I tune for a bullet hole, they wont put 2 arrows near each other. Too many people place too much stake on 'the bullet hole'
I don't disagree and I can admit that sometimes I get too focused on the bullet hole. Knowing that once I attach the broadheads I'll be moving the rest anyways
Almost everyone i see on youtube tunes the bow by shooting a fletched arrow from like 3-5 yards away from paper. Whats the point of tuning like that? This wont give you perfect broadhead flight past 30 yards. If you want to actually tune your bow you need to either shoot bareshafts (with a bit of tape on the back to simulate the weight of fletchings) from at least 5 yards (better 10), but if you're going to tune with a fletched arrow, at least come close to the paper! The paper should be very close when you're shooting with a fletched arrow, because as soon as the arrow leaves the string and travels the first 5-10 inches, the fletchings start to correct any kick the string gave to the arrow. But guess what, if you have a big fixed head on your arrow, it already caught air and planed away in those first 5-10 inches. So you're tuning out any kick that is left there after that, but the arrow with the broadhead has already deviated from the straight line. Basically, he paper should be a little further than the point of your arrow when you put the arrow on your bow and take your bow and raise your arm like when during the shot, but not drawing the bow. The idea is that the arrow should leave the string and then start going through the paper, but this gap between leaving the string and starting to go into the paper should be very small, maybe give it a foot or two but not more. If you're going to stand some yards away from paper with a fletched arrow you're only going to get a very rough tune which will cause you accuracy at 30+ yards. Bonus point - by shooting bareshafts from 10 yards and further into the paper you can really check both the consistency of your form and the consistency of your bow and everything in your setup. If you're not getting consistent bulletholes (or at least consistent tears) there's something wrong with either. And if you dont care if there's something wrong with either, why even bother with bows? Go buy a crossbow - its cheaper, faster and easier.
Counter point, go watch arrows in slow motion. The fletchings don’t take over until the arrow is 4-6 yards after the bow. Bareshaft tuning is also a waste of time in my opinion. Get a rough tune with fletched arrows and then go shoot broadheads, you get the same results in half the time. But that’s my opinion, do what works best for you.
@@jeffcordero_ I wouldnt say 4-6 yards, but yeah, i agree, they take time to take over. Thats why its best to tune with bareshafts. The reason bareshaft tuning is better than tuning with a broadhead is that when you have a consistent bullet hole through paper at 2, 5 and 10 yards - you know that any broadhead will fly as straight as aerodynamics allow in your setup. So you can 1) save yourself the hustle of re-sharpening your broadheads after shooting them into a target and your target lasts longer (ofcourse you will need to do a couple shots into the target with your field point to verify that broadheads are flying good, but if you tune with them it might take a lot more shots) and most importantly 2) you will know that any broadhead will fly straight out of your setup, so you can put big fixed broadheads for those closer initial shots and smaller fixed or mechanical broadheads in case you need a longer/follow up shot on your arrows and just know that they are going to fly the same (provided they're the same weight) vs when you tune with a broadhead you just know that this particular broadhead will fly where you aim, and thats it. Also, why not shoot bearshafts anyway, its entertaining and educational.
I bought the Omnia yesterday (NEW).
Set Center Shot then Paper Tuned.
1st Shot 1/2" Left Tear.
Used S.E.T. 1/2 Turn both Top and Bottom - PERFECT Bullet Hole.
Finest Bow I've shot to date...and it's a FIRE BREATHER !!
Hope it helps,
John
Hell yea! Glad you don’t have these issues. It’s a great bow!
Mine has been super easy to tune. I go back and forth between target arrows, hunting, and long range arrows, which means that I shoot a lot of paper. Zero set the cams and rest, and the tune is SUPER EASY and fast. If you’re struggling with left & right tears then the issue is your grip.
Just a heads up for everyone. The manual for this bow recommends 7/8 for center shot, not 13/16. That is throwing a lot of people off. The bow looks great though brother! I love mine.
Where is it in manual that it says 7/8? Mine does not say either. It says to check center shot by placing an arrow on riser and checking it is parallel to nocked arrow. G
Yeah, this was huge when I found out. I went from pulling my hair out to bullet hole in 5 minutes.
I set my omnia at 15/16" from the riser and dead level thru the berger button and it shot bullet holes the first shot. I feel you pain I spent a bunch of time tuning my hoyt carbon defiant turbo and just spent 20+hrs tuning a hoyt rx4. The rx4 pissed me so much I almost sold it, I had to play with running the cams hot, adjusting the knocking point, and yoke tuning. I can assure you its not my form. I also tuned my mathew's traverse rather quickly. As my grip changed for the better I just re-paper tuned my omnia and I micro adjusted my hamskea trinity rest and its bullet hole's all day. I get slight cable rub on the bottom cam but after 500 shots you cannot tell where the cam hits the cable. I will eventually break it down and check the limbs but I absolutely love the omnia and after messing with hoyt bows for days I will gladly spend an hour looking into my omnia.
Didn't have any issues with mine or the 7 I've tuned for people but everyone's different . Glad you got it figured out now . I will say the grip is alot different then it has been in the past .
It is very grip sensitive but I was getting the same consistent issue. I could clean it up, but it lead to other problems, like the excessive cam lean.
I’ve also tuned about 12 they all took about 10 mins but all had the right arrows
I heard they had problems tuning. Got mine a month ago. Eyeballed rest. It was at 15/16 and perfect bullet whole first shot
Mate of mine had dramas with a persistent tear with SET out of the box and 7/8 centre shot. . In the end he ignored the SET centre marks on the stickers and a found the actual midpoints by moving them each way to their end stops and splitting the difference on the adjuster screws. Centre shot was then set ignoring any measurement and instead setting an arrow in the rest dead parallel to a reference one held against the riser ie. square to the riser for that string position. Cable guard set for minimum fletching clearance. Then got bullet holes and only had to use a tiny bit of SET for fixed blade broadhead tuning.
Yup... I've had my omnia since December and IM STILL FIGHTING IT! I've done the limb swap, shimmed cams, and changed arrows 3 times! Very grip sensitive. I'll shoot a nice 2-3" group at 60 then get a crazy flyer. I really like the performance but at this point I'd rather have an ss34.
I have my V3X on standby…
Exact same issue. I'm not sure it's grip sensitive though, my theory is something with the SET is moving.
my omnia is the most accurate bow I own. Seems elite had a volume of sales they never had and rushed the omnia out the door. I wish you good luck because the omnia is an amazing bow when its running good.
The way of the elite tuning system is that they not sliding the cam left and right, its Tilting it left and right. Should’ve pick bowtech instead 😅
@@charelflorence I just traded my omnia for a bowtech ss34. I got bare shafts touching fletched arrows within 10 shots... Without my bowtechs help. Very impressed.
I need to check my limbs now lol I've had the same exact problem but with the Kure. I got it to tune but it took weeks. So now I'll check limbs and restart lol thanks for the info
My Omnia was dialed in with 4 shots,sucks that you had so much trouble with yours!
…Because it’s not a Hoyt.
Heyooo
My omnia had the cable rub issue but my bowshop had it cleaned up quickly. Mine tuned a smidge off centershot. I found it was very sensitive to hand position as well as my stabilizers. Ended up taking off my stabs and just using the stubby and it’s helped tremendously
First person to hit on the problem, grip torque. The best thing I can tell someone about diagnosing tuning issues is to have someone take pictures from behind you when you are at full draw and see if the string is coming off the cam in a straight line. If you are imparting torque the string will be coming off at an angle, usually away from your bow hand. Elite has always been sensitive to grip torque and I have helped dozens of people solve their tuning problems without ever touching the bow. Hope this helps someone
@@mountainmancaraway6431 great advice
@@mountainmancaraway6431 the only way I could get the top cam to be in line with the main string was to grip the riser and torque it to the left. A neutral grip wouldn’t get me there.
@jeff it's all how the bow sits in your grip. There's a really good video somewhere on here that a guy explains the best way to set your hand on one of those old elite grips and it's probably one of the best grip videos I've seen. I'm not disputing you know how your grip feels or that you know what you need to do but I've seen so many times people tweak and move stuff all around on these elites and it usually ends up being a grip fix. If you have it shooting good and it walk back and broadhead tunes then consider it good and enjoy shooting it. If after a week or two you start seeing arrow flight concerns I would set everything to factory centershot and go back to the grip. Hope it works out for you
No issues with ours. Tuned faster than anything we've messed with.
same here. and mine was produced in 2022. I picked it up used around christmas.
The Enkore has the same issue. Hard right tear. Tuning it out caused cable rub. Shim right, now i have a hard left tear, it was a pain to tune it out without getting fletching contact.
Also the SET seems unstable. If i unlock and move the SET screws, even returning them to the same spot, it throws the bow way out of tune.
There are SO MANY people complaining about tuning issues, but if i call Elite, they've never heard of it. Even if it's not my first time calling about it...
Was going to look at one this season when I bought my new bow and it shot fine. I had kind of been lured in by its ability to adjust without the bow press and all the amazing reviews. However, while I was talking to the owner he said their customer service was awful. While we were having the conversation another customer walks out of the shop and he leaves. The owner says, that guy has been waiting 3 weeks for Elite to send a replacement part on a warranty on an Omnia he just bought in February and I can’t get a call back from the Elite rep. That was all I needed. Out of contention. We all tend to get caught up in New Bow hype but we also forget that brand new features also means untested technology. Better to let a system get kinks worked out over a few seasons in new tech IMO.. Also, may have just been the pink strings
I was able to tune my Omnia relatively easy but my cable was rubbing bottom cam. I shimmed my cam .020 towards the cable it was rubbing on and that fixed the rubbing. It tuned in 3 shots after that. It should have very little cam lean at rest and full draw.
I have heard of them getting the limb deflection messed up on some of these Omnia bows. That sucks, sorry you had to go through so much frustration. It is a great shooting bow when it's right.
Thanks for sharing your tuning experience. Never thought of the differences in the individual limbs affecting the tune like that.
I had all these same issues and it sucks trying to get it tuned, once you get it dialed in its a tac driver! Wish it had come from the factory set up correctly.
Same, love it now lol
Was having the same issues, your video helped get mine lined out. Really enjoy your content!
You going to build a verdict for 3D as well?
Woof… depends. If it’s anything like this Omnia?! Maybe not. But we will see how this thing shoot and maybe a Verdict will become my indoor bow for the 2024 season
Good for you for not giving up. Love the content. Keep it up!
Thank you Aaron!
Jeff, I bought a prime revex 2 this year. I was curious if you have ever shot one or know anything about them. I love the bow and love how it shoots but I can't get it tuned to save my life. My local bow shop has been no help and I just wanted to discuss this with you if you had the time.
Thanks for making this video!! I couldn't get the right tune out of mine. Limb swap, shimming, changing center shot to 7/8, nothing but right tears. Took it back to my Archery shop and we spent 5 hours trying to get the right tear out with NO luck.! Finally the archery shop called Elite and we did a warranty return. I'm supposed to have the bow back next week, so we'll see if they did anything to it. If you have a shorter draw length, you probably won't have as much trouble, but I'm a 29.5 to 30 and on this bow the cable rubbing is awful!!
Long draw can be a blessing or a curse. I think I’m in a good spot now.
How is it now? Did you get your bow back from warranty?
When you took this bow apart how many total shims are on the top and bottom cam?...my bottom cam has 4 shims, 2 are the same size, one is slightly thinner, and than there is a paper thin one. My top cam has 3 shims, 2 are the same size, and the other is slightly thinner. I am struggling to get this thing to tune and get rid of cable rub at full draw. Seemed like what I read on line there should only be 6 shims not the 7 that came with my bow?
I’m not sure off the top of my head how many shims there are in each. Hope you get it figured out.
Thanks for making this video. I'm going thru the same thing now with my new Omnia. I'm starting to regret the purchase. Hopefully I can get it worked out.
Sorry your going through it too, but I don’t regret my purchase. Still a great bow
@@jeffcordero_ my Elite dealer shoots bullet holes with it on paper and Im getting nock right tears so I'll be working on my form and making some adjustments on grip before I have him rearranging the limbs.
Hi Jeff, Elite recommends starting with a 7/8” center shot on both the Omnia and the ERA.
I’m sure I’ll end up there once I broadhead tune.
Yeah my ERA was frustrating also. Elite advertises them as simple to tune with SET. The truth with many of these bows is, 1. Shim the cams as needed 2. Adjust the rest for center shot 3. Then use set for fine tuning.
Great job figuring it out!!
I had some issues with a bowtech and it was the same issue.
Good to know!
Total opposite of my experience with the Omnia. Got bullet hole in 3 shots. And it's so forgiving it bullet holes multiple models and diameter arrows without any adjustments.
Ised both the SET and the cable slide to tune the bow . The cable slide you need to bow press to take the tension of the cable but you can lean the cames to get a right or left tear out and used the SET.
So instead of using a 1/2 use a 1/4 turn on set and then move the roller garde left or right
See if that helps . SET can have the cams lean to much so they rub the bus cables
I moved the LTR, along with swapping limbs and that fixed my problem
Bought an Enkore couple of years ago and had a bad left tear( I’m a lefty). Tried everything I can possibly fix myself, didn’t work. Sent it back to the dealer, and they teamed up with an Elite tech to fix my problem. They even changed limb deflection like you did. They finally sent me the bow telling me “it’s better but still not perfect… this is the best we can do”!
Did not offer me to exchange it… I know it was probably a lemon but no more Elites for me even if I know they are great bows😂
I have a similar problem with my hoyt vtm 31 right now . My top cam is leaning right pretty hard and my right limb is about 1/8” lower than left. I’m pretty new to this stuff so figuring it out is tough. Right tear i can get to go away by moving my rest to 13/16 but then it is wayyyyyyy out of center shot points to left field. And no matter what i cant get rid of high tear.
You might have some torque issues, or maybe bring it back to the now shop and see if they can help you sort it out
@@jeffcordero_ lol… not that new.
I read all the issues and feel like I shouldn't be ordering one soon, but then I remember the pain we had with 2019 Obsessions and it was identical stuff. Limb swaps, shims, hours messing around but eventually it got there.
Thank you for making this Jeff!! Same issues and same bow. We spoke in instagram a bit. For those interested in this bow, be prepared to fight this bow to get it to shoot properly, but once you do it shoots great.
I did by the way have to swap limbs and re shim too. What a nightmare for a new bow.
Aren’t your stiffer limbs always suppose to be installed next to the riser. Seems like a manufacture Fup.
Just not the tuning experience I was looking for…
Mine shot bullet holes at factor spec and it cant be worse than the two hoyts I spent days tuning including hours of press time to get the hoyts dialed in. I had to play with cam timing, d loop height, and yoke tuning for days to get my two hoyts to shoot correclty. Thankfully I made a press for like 30$ from an archery talk post and the press will safely do past parallel bows(which I own) as it locks into the riser.
@@tsi-rocket4144 ,would you please give me the info to that link,I'm wanting to build one
@@tsi-rocket4144can you please share the link to the post for the DIY bow press. Thanks.
No problem with mine, I did move the cable guard over right out of the box too. do notice it’s easy to not be consistent on the grip! One sweet bow though
Had the same problem with my Elite Remedy bow. My cams were leaning so hard every shot I took I thought my bow was going to derail. Good to know I was not the only one struggling with this S.E.T technology. 😢
You are not alone.
So, You set LTR to the right position (how far)? Center the SET top and bottom, and swapped the top limbs. This has me wanting to check mine on paper. I need a press,........
The LTR 3 hash marks, enough to clear any vane I shoot. I did tweak the SET just a tick to fine tune for broadheads. That worked for me. everyone is different with grip pressure etc... find what works
I have Kure thay seema to give me fits too. I changed strings and now i have a low right that wont leave.
Wow I have the kure and I was thinking about getting one but now I’m not so sure, now I’m a little worried
Don’t be. The issues have been resolved from Elite
So I've been told the rubbing issue and tuning issue the bow still needs shimmed. That's how they fix the rubbing issue. Almost bought one, but like my sr6 more and the rubbing issue , I didn't want to spend the money.
Very important question: How did you measure the deflection rate of each limb?
I don’t. The bow company does and then writes the number or stamps it on the the limb. It’s almost always written on the part of the limb that’s in the limb pocket
Do you have a problem with the control cable rubbing the top cam.
I had the issue with my RH omnia but I move the LTR 1.5 marks to the left then I was able to use the SET to get the cable clearance and shoot bullet holes
I did and cleaned it up with the LTR
I was pulling my hair out tuning my remedy , right tear was 2 inches long adjusted the set system till out of travel moved cable back to normal, nothing changed. 60 pound peak weight my arrows were full length 400 spine with 150 grain point ( victory rip ) yes too much point weight went to 100 grain now have left tear but not bad went bad adjusted set system for left tear now I have a bullet hole 😀 long story short , arrow Spine very important!
I'm right on the line of 300/250 with my shaft length and draw weight. I did load up the point weight to try and weaken the arrow and see if that was an issue but it didn't do hardly anything to fix the right tear. Its not a spine issue
👍
I would get onto elite and get a set or replacement limbs where the deflections are closer 113-119 is way 2 far apart normally 1 pr 2 is acceptable
I just got an Ethos a few weeks ago. I'm having similar trouble with paper tears and cable rubbing.
I’ve built 3 elite bows since this video and have only had to shim 1. Both the Ethos’s I have built I didn’t need to touch them.
@@jeffcordero_ Thanks Jeff. I maxed out the S.E.T. Counterclockwise for the tear. Shooting bullets holes now. I think I want to change the shims so I still have some adjustment in that direction. I called Elite last Friday and still waiting for a response. Thanks for the content.
I have a similar situation on an old stock PSE. I don’t have a press, and two shops couldn’t fix it. I mentioned it to the second shop on swapping the limbs around to get rid of the crazy cam lean it had, and they wouldn’t do it. Looks like I need to buy a press..
That sucks. The press comes in handy for sure
Ouch, I was wondering about the Omnia the other day. Have you shoot the Elite Verdict by any chance? 😊
I have a Verdict on the way!
I like my CBE TL 3 pin slider. Top two pins are 19’s and bottom is a ten. Rheostat light. The best hunting sight I’ve ever used. Set at 25-35-45 yards. 👍👍
I think the 25-35-45 would throw me off. Probably takes some time getting use to.
damn bro i tuned one of them omnias in 5 min
I've watched so many videos on this bow. Form small content creators to pro shooters. And this is the first I've heard of this happening with this bow. I've seen this bow with the outdoor life magazine bow of the year award this year.
Do some more research, this bow has had a LOT of tuning/cable rub issues. Look on archery talk too…this is a pretty common problem with the Elite bows with these cams.
I'm going to echo what Rick said. Lots of cable rubbing issues and Im having a tough time getting mine to shoot.
The Elite Omnia has had cams rubbing cables on reviews in multiple continents... across the globe.
It’s a great bow, like I said, could have been just this bow, could be me. Not trying to trash Elite, just my experience with it.
@@jackbuendgen389 My bottom cam rubs the bottom cable but it didn't effect my paper tuning or accuracy and after 500+shots you will see the marks on the cables from the draw stops but not where the cam rubs. Is it right?, no absolutely not, would I choose another speed bow for 2023?, no. The omnia draw, valley, letoff, and shot is top notch and the speed rating is actual length unlike mathew's that run 3/8" long and hoyt that run 1/2" long. The omnia will chuck hunting arrows at phenomenal speeds.
I had this issue with my btx and one limb was cracked. Bought a darton
String setting can make it a pain to tune sometimes and pulling the bus cables to far can do the same
Are you guys resetting your centershot after making the set adjustment? They work in conjunction with one another. When you move the set it moves your arrow towards your riser or away from your riser.
I did not. Moving the set is like adjusting your rest.
@@jeffcordero_ it is but it also shifts your center shot. They work together!!! Done this way I’ve NEVER had to move the LTR. I think there is a video on RUclips that Darrin Christenberry did a cpl years ago that explains how everything works. You just don’t see may videos that show that the rest needs to be moved as well.
Your wife has great taste, I love the pink strings. Going to rock those next season.
This probably seems like a silly question but was the arrow hitting your target before it got all the way through the paper?
They are going all the way through. I triple checked.
@@jeffcordero_ I only asked because I was doing that last summer. Your paper looked closer than an arrow length to the target but it was probably just the angle
I like a nicely tuned bow but paper tears don't mean much. Just set center shot and sight in at 20 and do a walk back or do a french tune. Then go straight to broadhead tuning. Use the set technology for the broadhead tune.
That takes way too long...can paper tune in about 5 shots...nock tune....and then I can screw on any broad head I want... and I mean any fixed blade with no more required tuning
I’ve always had pretty good luck to 40 yards with a paper tune. Usually minimal adjusting to get broadheads out to 60, like a couple clicks on the rest minimal.
I got mine a few weeks ago. Literal pain in the ass. It took the bow shop 6 hours to get the left tear out. Im a lefty. Brought it home and bareshaft tuned at 30.. but at brace my arrow isnt square with my riser. I'm pretty close to selling it and going back to my v3x33
Just started following you, great video by the way. Like you I’m no master bow tuner, but have been playing with bows for close to 20yrs and consider myself a decent Archer. I have 2 Prime’s, 1 Mathews, 1 PSE and just bought an Elite Basin for my Daughter. Although the Basin does not have the S.E.T technology, or any of the other bells and whistles, like the higher end Elites , I have ran into some tuning issues myself. So any info on tuning I can find is great.
I would have to disagree with some of the comments about checking your grip, From what you’ve described you were obviously getting the same tear over and over. If your grip was inconsistent it would have shown in the paper. By Having 1 limb with a higher deflection than the rest would definitely cause you to go down the rabbit hole of tuning. If your equipment is compromised, no amount of checking or changing your grip will help.
Anyway, thought the video was great .👍
How do you measure deflection rates?
You dont...every bow company measures it differently...back when I built limbs we had a machine to put the limb in and attach a cable then pulled the limb and there was a digital readout....however that number didn't really correspond to anything at all...its not lbs or any kinda weight measurement...its kinda like we knew that the read out said 325 we knew that would make a 70lb bow...this was a major bow manufacture...I'm not a liberty to say which one
Laramie is right, mine are written on the front of the limb. You can’t see them unless you remove them from the limb pockets.
So glad you posted this. I bought my Omnia in January and still cannot get the right tear out of it. How did you measure the limb deflection? Is there a tool to do that?
Should be written on the limbs
Deflection numbers are marked on the limb... You just can't see them when the limbs are on the bow because they are usually hide under the limb pocket.
@@jasondavis1911 Thanks Jason, I'll take them out and see what they say.
I was having issues with my mathew v3x I realized that if your knock is to tight on your d lool it won't turn well but if u give your knock just a little wiggle room it tunes so easy! Great bow by the way🤙
Noob here. Only been shooting a few months. Fought a terrible tear with the set tech. Found the hamskea was staying up too late. Adjusted and set the set tech back to stock. Shoots great. Mines left handed, so maybe the limbs were in the right spot.😅 I've found consistent proper form is critical. Set the ltr about 1/8th to clear the fletching. Had string rub at first. Flattening the serving somewhat. A couple hundred shots later, hasn't gotten any worse. Hope this helps somebody.
Usually the shooter...grip, anticipation of the shot. This bow easily can get rid of left and right tears.
That's wild. As a tech this has been one of the easiest Elites I've ever set up.
Yup. I know this wasn’t very common, but I wasn’t the only case.
I listened to this and have absolutely no idea why you would have had an issue with it. I have two Elite flagship bows which includes the Omnia. both shot bullet holes out of the box. Tuning is super simple. I've also swapped modules in both bows and also have a second set of limbs for the Omnia. The same. Zero issues tuning and swaping these compared to the nightmare in tuning or modifying other compound bows that I've had. That said as well, I watch Steven Hand from Archery Supply in Australia who loves these and shoots these himself, very honest reviews, and he finds all of these that he sells to be the simplest for tuning of all the bows he's sold in his lifetime. So... I know you're a very knowledgeable person. So that's not it. Bought used??? I don't know. But when I listened to this all I could think was, "What the hell is he talking about? It makes no sense."
Yes I did buy it used. I was very confused myself. But i got it figured out and all is right
I had one of the first LH Omnia's and tuning was a literal PITFA!! Set my Epsilon to dead center (13/16") and I was getting a bad left tear. I tried cleaning it up with the SET but what people don't realize is if you go too far with the SET one direction or the other it's the same as moving your rest an insane amount one direction or the other. If you don't believe that, nock an arrow and stand over the bow, looking straight down over the top cam, line up the arrow with the limb bolts and look which or even how far the arrow is point one direction or the other. Gaining 1/4-1/2 turn on the SET is a lot and many don't know that. I even saw on AT where a guy moved his SET so far that he ran out of windage on his sight...so that gives you some idea of how far the arrow is pointing at brace! You are too good of a tuner, you know what you are doing, your grip is not an issue...it for SURE was the bow. I never did move my LTR out from center....,I guess I should have because that may have helped the other thing I hated and could not get over....the cables in my sight picture at full draw. I REALLY liked the bow. I loved the speed I got at my specs, I loved that I could should at 26.75" draw length vs 26.5" which was too short or 27" which was too long. GLAD you found that it was a limb, maybe they could send you another set of limbs for the top or at least one close to that deflection. But I bet you are too scared to break it down again....LOL!!🤣
Great video as always Jeff....enjoy your vids a LOT!!
Thanks Steve. I could get it to tune but it was way off like you mentioned. I had my sight way to far to the left and the cam lean scared me. So I knew I was going down an uncharted road, I’m just glad swapping the limbs and moving the LTR a little really cleaned up 90% of the issue I was having. It’s all good now!
My PSE drive gave me nightmares. Ended up swapping shims. Aftwards awesome
Sometimes i fell all the tuning stuff is cool, but at the end of the day how much value does it have if you are swapping shims and limbs
i am having the same issue with my enkore
@backyardbows tuned it within theee shots i believe. I wonder why the big difference. Thanks for the work. 👍🏼
Reading that back it sounds sarcastic lol I truly wasn't being that. I really do wonder why the disparity. And seriously thank you for the video. 🤙🏼
On the bright side, I am sure there was a lot to be learned from that frustration.
Ohh for sure. I got to do things I’ve never done, like swap limbs. It was an experience but I’m glad it’s shooting well now
The pink strings gave your bow mood swings! Lol
Wrong time of the month perhaps?
@@drmitofit2673 totally. Lol
😂😂
Why did you set the rest at 13/16? Elite recomends 7/8 as a starting point. a simple rest adjustment probably would have helped
I didn't know that until after, 13/16 is industry standard.
I literally just bought this bow I hope I don’t get that issue
Mine shot a bullet hole right out of the box with slight rest movements.
I've had 16 hoyts, 5 Matthew's a few bowtechs n 2 elites....never ever had a problem tuning a single bow.....till this years hoyt VTM....I feel the pain 😂😂
It happens sometimes
That pink is tight.. My favorite flavor
It could maybe be the early production ones. I dont know for sure, because i havent bought one, but this might throw me off from buying it. Ss34 it is.
It was an early production bow. I got ahold on Elite and we ran the serial numbers
I love my Synergy. No dealers close to me anymore. They all stopped selling Elites. Everything is bowtech Hoyt and Mathews around here.
That’s a shame
Same thing for me. I had a left tear that I couldn't get out. When I was all said and done, I had to switch around both set of limbs and shim spacers. Got it tuned now and it shoots great. Now i just need to figure out if i can switch the limb stop brackets because they are on the wrong side with the limb flip flop..
Hahaha yea I debated not switching them either
“ was it the bow?” Or is it you? ( lol). A friend of mine had a PSE SUPRA that was a nightmare. Finally, after literally 5 hours it was tuned. Only bow I’ve ever seen that bad.
Jury is still out. I got it shooting good at the end of the day.
It was the bow!! I bounced messages back and forth with Jeff and had the same issues.
Jeff I ordered one of these because of your success in tuning. Question for you, since you have shot the Hoyt VTM 34 how do these two compare in draw cycle?
Depends. If you lower your letoff adjustment on the Omnia to 80% ish the draw cycles and transitions into the backwall feel similar. The Omnia might just be a tick stiffer overall
Make sure your cams are not getting cable contact at full draw. Elite has had a serious problem shipping these bows with the weak limbs on the wrong side. The limbs are all different deflections, and they have been shipping them backwards…so that MAY be your problem, also this will cause cam/cable contact at full draw as well.
I commented before I watched much into the vid….and yes, they probably have the limb deflections backwards..which is ridiculous from a company like Elite. Loved this bow…but the issues a lot of people are having, including 2 of my friends…I’ll stick with Mathew’s and Hoyt…haven’t had any issues from any of my bows, and I have a couple from each.
That was 100% my problem. Once I swapped limbs the rubbing went away and I could finally adjust the bow without excessive cam lean.
Umm any chance this bow was blown up?
Can’t share your frustration here. I was shooting bullet holes within 3 shots on my Omnia.
🎉🎉 Thats the way it should be!
Why would you not drop arrow spine. That’s what I’d do first if getting a significant right tear. Right tear=too stiff
I thought about it, but I did try adding a bunch of point weight at one point which will weaken the arrow spine and that didn't help, like 200gn of extra point weight. didnt help.
I just bare shaft to 20 with all bows and call it a day. The bow always shoots better than me afterwards
The one thing I didn't hear in your video is that you didn't move the arrow rest. I'm by no means,an expert but the first thing we used to do back in the 80s to tune until they started putting more adjustments into cams was to move the arrow rest. Alot of people are set on the 13/16th and won't move it thinking that's where it HAS to be.
I did move the rest very slightly. I'm no expert either, but I have always found the best success tuning the bow and using the arrow rest to clean up broadhead flight. That's always worked well for me.
LOVED your reply...I have a Mathews that WILL NOT shoot arrows straight with factory settings for the rest....moved mine nearly 1/4 inch TOWARDS the riser....all wrong? nope it now shoots bullets .wish I had read your reply months ago!!..
Bowtech 5 minutes perfect bullet hole
Elite same way...this guy just don't know what he's doing
Let me say that I've never had any problems tuning a bow through paper ever I've shot every high end brand out there decided to buy my first elite this year omnia mine had gawd awful cam lean couldn't get it to clean a tear no matter what had them shim the cams ect still cams rubbed the cables like crazy wanted to love the bow but sold it won't own another elite again just because of my experience this was at 29 inch draw in fact the 5 other omnias at the shop had the same exact issue maybe it was first batch issue
I agree, I think it's a great bow but maybe a bad batch of them came out at some point and we drew the short straw
Maybe try the smooth mods
I have them, made a video about it too 🙃
I’ve shot a couple different Omnias and they all rubbed on the cable, I’m sure it could be tuned out but that combined with the hump at the end of the draw cycle made me buy another brand. There is a lot to like about the Omnia and I’d be interested to hear how yours does long term.
The dump isn’t as bad if you go to 80% let off. But the rubbing was and issue that I needed to solve
the dump into the valley is extreme compared to hoyt or pse but its on par with mathew's. I added felt to the draw stops initially but ended up switching to the limb stops. I will take the dump into an excellent valley and letoff over any other speed bow for 23 but that's personal preference of course. I shot the pse omen, hoyt twin turbo, omnia, and bowtech sr350 and found the omnia to have the best draw, valley, and letoff IMO.
Not saying this/was your issues. But to anyone watching this. make sure you don’t have hand torque on your grip. Bare shaft first before paper. If you bare shaft is big time tail right or left purposely torque both directions and watch your bare shaft swap side to side. If you toque your bow it will never tune. I learned this the hard way. Bare shaft is way better to start than paper. If you are shooting straight bare shafts at 20 yards. Who needs paper
Take that little plastic keeper off the cable rod and the cables will come off the rollers then you can move the rod
I shoot target.
None of my bows shoot a bullet hole.
If I tune for a bullet hole, they wont put 2 arrows near each other.
Too many people place too much stake on 'the bullet hole'
I don't disagree and I can admit that sometimes I get too focused on the bullet hole. Knowing that once I attach the broadheads I'll be moving the rest anyways
Should've went with the Revex. ;)
Definitely bought this bow slightly used because the person before you couldn't get it tuned.....
Maybe….
It's the pink strings 😂
With as much money as you spend on a flagship bow these days- it should be shooting bullet holes from the factory.....
I don’t disagree
Almost everyone i see on youtube tunes the bow by shooting a fletched arrow from like 3-5 yards away from paper. Whats the point of tuning like that? This wont give you perfect broadhead flight past 30 yards. If you want to actually tune your bow you need to either shoot bareshafts (with a bit of tape on the back to simulate the weight of fletchings) from at least 5 yards (better 10), but if you're going to tune with a fletched arrow, at least come close to the paper! The paper should be very close when you're shooting with a fletched arrow, because as soon as the arrow leaves the string and travels the first 5-10 inches, the fletchings start to correct any kick the string gave to the arrow. But guess what, if you have a big fixed head on your arrow, it already caught air and planed away in those first 5-10 inches. So you're tuning out any kick that is left there after that, but the arrow with the broadhead has already deviated from the straight line. Basically, he paper should be a little further than the point of your arrow when you put the arrow on your bow and take your bow and raise your arm like when during the shot, but not drawing the bow. The idea is that the arrow should leave the string and then start going through the paper, but this gap between leaving the string and starting to go into the paper should be very small, maybe give it a foot or two but not more. If you're going to stand some yards away from paper with a fletched arrow you're only going to get a very rough tune which will cause you accuracy at 30+ yards. Bonus point - by shooting bareshafts from 10 yards and further into the paper you can really check both the consistency of your form and the consistency of your bow and everything in your setup. If you're not getting consistent bulletholes (or at least consistent tears) there's something wrong with either. And if you dont care if there's something wrong with either, why even bother with bows? Go buy a crossbow - its cheaper, faster and easier.
Counter point, go watch arrows in slow motion. The fletchings don’t take over until the arrow is 4-6 yards after the bow. Bareshaft tuning is also a waste of time in my opinion. Get a rough tune with fletched arrows and then go shoot broadheads, you get the same results in half the time. But that’s my opinion, do what works best for you.
@@jeffcordero_ I wouldnt say 4-6 yards, but yeah, i agree, they take time to take over. Thats why its best to tune with bareshafts. The reason bareshaft tuning is better than tuning with a broadhead is that when you have a consistent bullet hole through paper at 2, 5 and 10 yards - you know that any broadhead will fly as straight as aerodynamics allow in your setup. So you can 1) save yourself the hustle of re-sharpening your broadheads after shooting them into a target and your target lasts longer (ofcourse you will need to do a couple shots into the target with your field point to verify that broadheads are flying good, but if you tune with them it might take a lot more shots) and most importantly 2) you will know that any broadhead will fly straight out of your setup, so you can put big fixed broadheads for those closer initial shots and smaller fixed or mechanical broadheads in case you need a longer/follow up shot on your arrows and just know that they are going to fly the same (provided they're the same weight) vs when you tune with a broadhead you just know that this particular broadhead will fly where you aim, and thats it. Also, why not shoot bearshafts anyway, its entertaining and educational.
You 100% I tune this thing and after a few shots comes outta tune....wtf
Lol. Guess those top hats aren’t so bad 🤣🤣
Nope lol