That's very kind of you, thank you! ❤️ Same to you, and please get scheduled for a free 1-on-1 Guidance call if you need more detailed support and heads up, we're offering in-person classes again! Happy printing to you 😎 scrnprntl.ink/FreeGuidance scrnprntl.ink/3PTkEka
Thanks for supporting our products and buying the supplies. We've explored options but, haven't found the right concoction of adhesive quite yet. We don't want to put a product on the market that could back fire on our customers.
Best video I have found online about Plastisol Heat Transfers. I love how everything is explain clearly. You have made my brain hungry for more learning. Thank you so much for sharing.
***** ALL of their videos are GREAT!! I have tried watching others and none have been as helpful, clear and concise as theirs! Ryonet Yall have been my inspiration, coach, and supplier through silkscreeningsupplies.com!! THANK YOU #screenprintingismynewbff #cornyhashtags #imhookedforlife #nomoreoverpricednamebrandsforthisfam LOL
I use this method for my ebay business and it's great!! I get everything from ryonet. The only bad thing is after printing over 100 transfers a day it gets really dusty. Wish you guys had an ink that wouldn't need the powder.
If you don't want a lot of build up then you should just print your design directly to a shirt using standard screen printing method. Regardless of mesh size you'll still need a thick stencil of emulsion to make this proccess work. Although, I will add that when you heat press the t-shirt at the end it does flatten out the design and make the ink fee a bit softer.
Nice video. We do enjoy using the Ryopaque inks in our shop. Works better on a lot of shirts instead of having to setup another screen with a white under base.
Mark the screen and at the top of each section write 4 minutes, 6, 8 and 10. Produce a piece of art with type, shapes and even some halftones and place it in the 4 minute section, cover the remaining 3 sections with the black sheet; expose for 4 minutes.After the initial exposure move your art and sheet to the next section, covering the 4 minute section with a light safe sheet as well, you only want the 6 minute section exposed to your light source.
Ive learned that re-heatpressing for 2-3 seconds without the transfer paper but with a teflon sheet instead removes all excess adhesion powder residue.
Its a good explanation as i was only learning the photoresist process never thought about special transfer paper just onto fabrics. But i guess once you got it transferred onto a screen you could transfer onto anything metal , glass, plastics ,...etc as long as you have the proper paints,sealers ,...etc for the type of object. Because the screen is the stencil at that point.
I did see another video about storing the transfer paper in a plastic air tight container. Then adding a couple of salt bags, the ones you get in a new sneaker box. That way they will last longer.
Hancock Screenprinting I have heard of these tactics before but have not personally tried them, if they come from a good source its definitely worth it, couldn't hurt much. Ryan
Our pleasure. We mention in the video that there are multiple ways of accomplishing plastisol heat transfers, with that said we just suggest this method because, we have the most experience and highest consistency of success applying this method. Perhaps you should try buying the products listed above in the description and let us know your results. We'd love to see how your theory works out for you. Keep us posted.
Willflex makes great inks, so I wouldn't doubt so. Super good brand. We just prefer the adhesive powder so we don't have to mix inks before we put it on the screen.
How get rid of transfer adhension powder at the blank space of papers which usually screwed up the side areas of the print after heat press. please go to 21:23
Finally i get that you can transfer not only to fabrics but also paper. I am curious the iron on transfers you can purchases at an arts/craft store how they differ. I get you can also purchase heat transfer ink jet paper or laser paper. But this paper seems very specific to screen printing inks. I am just wondering if somebody can do a video on how the different transfer papers are made to explain why one cant be substituted for the other. Also some arts/craft iron on objects look to be the same as the screen printing paper ones. But then again there is the ink jet toner transfer paper...etc
Honestly wash tests we've done have shown that plastisol heat transfers last less time. Although the ink is the same you're throwing the Adhesive powder in the mix. The adhesive powder is what makes the plastisol re-stick to the t-shirt. When the adhesive powder breaks down in the wash the plastisol losses it's bind to the t-shirt. When you screen print directly to the t-shirt there's no adhesive required for the ink to stick to the t-shirt.
Ryonet so they are only one time usage , can plastisol printed t-shirt be iron on the face of t-shirt? does ironing will spoil the plastisol screen printed design on the t-shirt?
Well if you already have the heat press and you already have the screen printing press then all you need is three more things. A teflon sheet for heat transferring, the heat transfer paper and heat transfer powder adhesive. I left a new link in the description titled "The Supplies You Need:"click that link and it will take you to a page with all the products you need to get started.
Good morning! yes, they are one use.... while i have to admit, i've never tried using them more than once. To get the best economy out of the paper, i will gang up logos, meaning if i'm doing some logos for hats or inside labels, i'll fit a bunch on the sheet and then cut them apart after printing.... Happy printing!
Do you have any video to print 2 colors in a polypropylene bags . You know this is very sensitive to the heat . Whatever video help screen printing directly or using transfer paper
You can go as high as 305 @55lpi if you use a first down base like Wilflex TransClear- The ink will split from the first down 100% and also hold your fine halftone dots in place.
I appreciate the reply, but this only answers part of my question. I need to know about the entire kit, including the actual Screen, the squeegee, the Ink to use, the print/stencil, etc., etc.. You only gave the papers required & adhesive powder. Where can I get a whole kit that has everything from step 1 all the way down to the end? Thanks again.
Thanks for this great video! Couple of questions: 1. How many transfers do you think can be made per hour using this method? 2. When you printed the black shirt it had that white stuff on it, I guess it was the adhesive powder? How to avoid that? Maybe there are other ways to do it without a powder? Thanks
gvy88kz 1. I would say manually roughly 100-120, 2. To avoid the adhesive powder, shake the transfer paper more vigorously, or you can use a screen printable adhesive and a 3rd screen to apply the adhesive instead of using powder.
this video helped a lot!!! Q- wouldn't making another screen for a clear underbase. or screen printed transfer glue, be so much easier and less...dusty? or is the powder giving the best results? thanks!!!!!!!!!!!
Hey there! With these heat transfer sheets, the powder is an important part of the transfer process! The transfer powder is what facilitates the actual transfer process between the gel cured ink and the shirt. The powder can be a little dusty, true, but remember that you don't need to use a lot! Just enough to cover the image, then you can tap the rest off. :)
That's an adhesive base/backing (last down) like TransFlex you are referring to, where the ink sticking to the garment (wetting) is problematic. The first down bases are meant for 4 color process and spot process types of heat transfer production. Where higher mesh counts and lower stencil thickness are required..
When I do the wash test the print stays on but the problem is that the edges slightly lift but the print is solid and on the garment. What could be the problem.
Can you choke the underbase on a multi color.....meaning will the powder glue stick to the top color when flashed. I'm wondering if the top color that bleeds over the underbase, I'm wondering if the top overbleed will stick to the shirt
Morning David and happy Wednesday. Couple different ways of basing. (i heard it on the street that there's a video coming for this exact thing) One way is to actually spread/stroke the base to be larger than the image and then use a clear instead of white. The other is exactly what you mentioned, choking the base more than normal. the top color that overhangs the base will normally grab enough of the powder to stick fine. hope this helps for the moment. Happy printing!
great tutorial , my one question is if I am doing a one color dark print on a light garment do I have to flash the print or can I apply adhesion powder right away after my print? Black print on White garment. Thanks!
+Biglsyny Biglsyny Great question. Check out this video with one of our friends from Guru Ink, in it he covers the process for making single color heat transfers. ruclips.net/video/YDnZs4M_5Tk/видео.html
I have a Heat Press Machine that I paid $300+ for & I would like to use a plastisol transfer paper. What is the best way to transfer plastisol onto sheet paper for a heat press transfer? What is the cheapest kit to create the plastisol to paper?
hi Ryonet i am new to heat transfer printing, can you please tell me what type of flash cure you are using, as our flash cure taking long time to cure and eventually burning the paper. i can not see orange light of lamps on the panel while curing, so am wondering what type of flash cure you are using to dry the ink! by the way great video.
Hi Ryan great videos i want to make plastisol transfers but finding it difficult in Ecuador the transfer paper for plastisol i can get, but instead of the powdered adhesive they have given me a paste? make a pass of the paste on the screen first onto the paper then the ink , use the heat gun then ready to go, is this true do you know of this technique? then i am offered a special ink called sublimata for screen printing, with this they say i just run the ink onto the paper no need for adhesive , any advice on the first process i mentioned would be great cheers
Hi there. I have a couple of questions for you. 1. What is the cleaning stuff called that you use to clean off plastisol ink off the screen? 2. Is there a special screen that had to be used to use the plastisol ink with glitter? - I bought plastisol ink with glitter cause I’m making a basketball mom shirt and I would like the basketball to be glittery, but when I was testing out the ink in a small portion of fabric the glitter was not passing through? It just stayed on the top of it. Am I doing something wrong? 3. How long do you heat press the plastisol ink? I know it has to be at 320 but how long should I actually leave it pressing for? 4. Have you used the emulsion hardner stuff before for your screens and how well did that work if so? Thanks.
If the heat press or sublimation paper is smaller than the shirt itself, then yes, it will likely leave a mark. As for your question on if transfer paper will work or not, I could not say. You would want to contact the manufacturer of the 5 in 1 printer.
HI @urjnlegend ! here's a couple deep dive videos that are more recent. I believe that the clear backer in this video may no longer be offered. So these may help fill in some gaps. ruclips.net/video/tKZiUiAD2V8/видео.html ruclips.net/video/VF0HGUWwbHo/видео.html Hope that helps!
Ive heard so many way to add the powder, before the cure or after the cure... I’ve done after the cure but my press takes anywhere between 30 to 55 seconds. What is the shelf life of the paper with the powered cure vs the non powdered cure?
Good morning, @Salman Razak! The white powder is an adhesive powder that helps the ink to stick to the garment. Here's a link... www.screenprinting.com/products/transfer-adhesion-powder-plastisol-transfer-adhesive-1-lb Hope that helps.
@@Ryonet thanks for the reply, really appreciate it. I really liked the way you explained the process from start till end. I am gathering all the local info for material and accessories. Planning to start my own line of T-shirts. There is lot to learn, types, process, color grading, materials... etc Thanks again for the reply
There is a lot of argument on water-based ink completely replacing plastisol going forward into the future for multiple reasons. But whether that’s true or not, I think there is an increased interest in people wanting to do this with water-based inks. What is the differences and can’t you just replace platisol with water-based ink if you’re going to add a wet underbase to adhere the powder too and heat cure it using the same process? Why or why not?
There are a couple limitations for doing WB transfers. 1) The ink needs to be made specifically to be used as a transfer. You cant grab just any WB ink and create a transfer with it. 2) You still need to cure the ink on the PET transfer paper before transferring. Most print shops are not set up to properly cure WB transfers that last through multiple wash cycles. Which leads to the bigger discussion of: From a shop production point of view, the U.S. is based around printing plastisol. Small dryers and small autos with a single flash.
hi, does heat press is good enough to cure the plastisol print? i know it would mess the ink on the heatpress but i think using a heat gun first before the heatpress would do. What do you think?
After you have screen printed the plastisol onto the paper, you then add plastisol adhesion powder. What other ways besides flash drying the image can you use to cure it, before heat pressing the transfer?
You can use only a conveyor dryer with someone standing at the end of the dryer to catch and stack the sheets or a flash. Heat guns and other solutions don't work consistently enough.
Good question, @cynthia percell. We usually have someone internally put together the design. This video is old enough that i really have no idea, but it was probably someone in either our marketing or education dept....
I have made some screen print transfers before. Once I heat press the transfer on the shirt I have issues with the stretch test. The designs cracks. What could be the issues or does that typical happen with reverse transfers ?
If you are only printing on light shirts, you can use this. www.screenprinting.com/screen-printing-supplies/inkjet-transfer-paper/inkjet-heat-transfer-paper-sheet-11x17.html#.UvAPG7SDIqI
Currently we use a flash dryer to cure (in the process of buying a conveyor dryer). Is it possible to preshrink and cure the transfer paper all with a flash dryer?
Hey there! You can definitely do that. The process would just be the same, except under your flash instead of going through a tunnel. As long as you gel your ink correctly, and preshrink the transfer paper, you'll be good to go! Feel free to reach out to us at success@ryonet.com or 800-314-6390 if you have any questions about the process!
I'm on an automatic press trying to print transfers for the first time. I have a three color design using plastisol inks and a clear underbase, and flashing after each of the first two colors. However, I'm having problems with the ink sticking to the next screen and visibly pulling from my design after flashing. I've tried different flash times, lower squeegee pressure, and off contact and have also tried switching the first two color stations. Any insights on how to fix this?
Curious... why the need to put marks on the pallet around the corners of the paper? It seems to me it's not important to put the paper in the same spot for each print. What am I missing?
This is to center your print on the paper and helps you watch if the paper moved or not. Just a reference point. If you use a platen tape on your platen, you can always just replace the tape when doing a different print.
Also, is this a cheaper alternative to going into a print shop and just getting shirts done? I own a clothing company and I have all the blank shirts myself, would it make more sense to get transfers made? I dont want to have 100 shirts already made that I cant sell. Thanks.
+Darkside Graphix iheard without underbase itll crack? white n black dont crack as easy for some reason ive noticed. should i do white underbase on top of blue or just blue on blue or just one layer of ink is good enough? imight just order them theyre only 2$
Hey there Danyal! Thanks for asking! Transfers can be used in a variety of ways. Their main use is for live, traveling screen printers, and for shops that do the same design multiple times throughout the year. This allows you to put the design on paper, store it/file it away, or carry it with you to a location with a heat press, like a concert. The heat press is used to actually transfer the design from the paper to the garment - effectively curing it.
I have a problem with my 2 color transfers , I am printing an American flag with a baseball cather in the middle , I am printing the catcher last so my American flag is dry when I get to the finishing point so there for I'm not able to get the powder to stay on my flag and its causing it to peel off my garment any suggestions ?
Hey there! You are probably overflashing your transfers, so the inks are curing too much. You'll need to speed up your flash process so that you don't get the inks too hot.
Nichole Reynolds - if you're flashing, powder won't stick to it. Powder needs wet ink to stick. Watch this video again, you'll see what he's doing. You're using plastisol right?
can u make a video that how to make artwork like the t shirt u wear. I want to know how to separate that blue and white screen in ur t shirt. Because i think the color is seperate , its not overlapping.
Hey there! If you're looking to get your white ink smoother and easier to work with, you can use a little curable reducer, no more than 10% added by weight, though the less added the better. You want to be careful not to add too much reducer, or you will lose opacity. Heat pressing a design will always create a softer feel than traditional screen printing, so that is another factor to keep in mind. You can find our curable reducer here: www.screenprinting.com/wilflex-epic-curable-reducer
Please call 800-314-639 and we'll set you up with the entire kit. Kits vary from person to person so it would be more beneficial if you called in so one of our experts could taylor make a kit for you. RUclips has too many restrictions when it comes to linking people to products and we want to make sure you get exactly what you need.
Hey there! This would not work with RyoCharge, as you have to achieve proper cure temp and dwell time when curing any type of discharge. Because of the nature of a heat transfer, with the gel cure and eventual press cure, RyoCharge can't be used for heat transfers. By doing a plastisol heat transfer, however, you will be getting a softer hand than if you did a traditional plastisol print, as the heat presses compresses the ink down into the shirt, making it softer.
@@phoekymay7257 why? If you’re using an underbase wet and adding adhesive powder to heat cure gel, Why does it matter whether it’s platisol or water-based think?
+Elleirra Razalle great question! If your ink is clogging up your screen you can use a good ink degrader like supreme was or aqua wash to help loosen thing sup. Water based inks can also be broken down with water to reduce chemical usage :) Here you go: www.screenprinting.com/sgreen-supreme-wash-qt www.screenprinting.com/sgreen-aqua-wash-quart
Loved the detailed video. Thank you for taking all this effort to teach us. God bless you and your team abundantly always 🙂🙏🏼❤️
That's very kind of you, thank you! ❤️ Same to you, and please get scheduled for a free 1-on-1 Guidance call if you need more detailed support and heads up, we're offering in-person classes again! Happy printing to you 😎
scrnprntl.ink/FreeGuidance
scrnprntl.ink/3PTkEka
Thanks for supporting our products and buying the supplies. We've explored options but, haven't found the right concoction of adhesive quite yet. We don't want to put a product on the market that could back fire on our customers.
Best video I have found online about Plastisol Heat Transfers. I love how everything is explain clearly. You have made my brain hungry for more learning. Thank you so much for sharing.
***** Thanks for watching
***** ALL of their videos are GREAT!! I have tried watching others and none have been as helpful, clear and concise as theirs! Ryonet Yall have been my inspiration, coach, and supplier through silkscreeningsupplies.com!! THANK YOU #screenprintingismynewbff #cornyhashtags #imhookedforlife #nomoreoverpricednamebrandsforthisfam LOL
I use this method for my ebay business and it's great!! I get everything from ryonet. The only bad thing is after printing over 100 transfers a day it gets really dusty. Wish you guys had an ink that wouldn't need the powder.
If you don't want a lot of build up then you should just print your design directly to a shirt using standard screen printing method. Regardless of mesh size you'll still need a thick stencil of emulsion to make this proccess work. Although, I will add that when you heat press the t-shirt at the end it does flatten out the design and make the ink fee a bit softer.
Click the link in the description! Thank you!
Very educational video. Awesome step-by-step instructions.
Hopkins T-Shirt Co., Thanks for commenting! Visit our blog for more tips blog.screenprinting.com/
Nice video. We do enjoy using the Ryopaque inks in our shop. Works better on a lot of shirts instead of having to setup another screen with a white under base.
Totally. Thanks for the comment!
Mark the screen and at the top of each section write 4 minutes, 6, 8 and 10. Produce a piece of art with type, shapes and even some halftones and place it in the 4 minute section, cover the remaining 3 sections with the black sheet; expose for 4 minutes.After the initial exposure move your art and sheet to the next section, covering the 4 minute section with a light safe sheet as well, you only want the 6 minute section exposed to your light source.
I am going to use this process a lot.
Ive learned that re-heatpressing for 2-3 seconds without the transfer paper but with a teflon sheet instead removes all excess adhesion powder residue.
Thanks for sharing!
Also run it through the drier and the powder will disappear
Great technique for nice sharp neck tags. very well done tutorial
Thank you.
Its a good explanation as i was only learning the photoresist process never thought about special transfer paper just onto fabrics. But i guess once you got it transferred onto a screen you could transfer onto anything metal , glass, plastics ,...etc as long as you have the proper paints,sealers ,...etc for the type of object. Because the screen is the stencil at that point.
I did see another video about storing the transfer paper in a plastic air tight container. Then adding a couple of salt bags, the ones you get in a new sneaker box. That way they will last longer.
Hancock Screenprinting I have heard of these tactics before but have not personally tried them, if they come from a good source its definitely worth it, couldn't hurt much. Ryan
There's a lot of factors that go into an exact number. Around 10-20 washes. Have you tried our R20 Water-based inks??? Great water-based ink!
Our pleasure. We mention in the video that there are multiple ways of accomplishing plastisol heat transfers, with that said we just suggest this method because, we have the most experience and highest consistency of success applying this method. Perhaps you should try buying the products listed above in the description and let us know your results. We'd love to see how your theory works out for you. Keep us posted.
Awesome! Glad we could help!
Willflex makes great inks, so I wouldn't doubt so. Super good brand. We just prefer the adhesive powder so we don't have to mix inks before we put it on the screen.
that was awesome - thank you!
Can i use a clamp heat press to cure the ink to transfer instead of a using the dryer?
Good info and video
What is the difference between screen printing adhesive power and DTF powder. Thanks
Ryonet Is there a water base heat transfer paper/system for doing this with, or is my only option plastisol in this case?
How get rid of transfer adhension powder at the blank space of papers which usually screwed up the side areas of the print after heat press. please go to 21:23
Finally i get that you can transfer not only to fabrics but also paper. I am curious the iron on transfers you can purchases at an arts/craft store how they differ. I get you can also purchase heat transfer ink jet paper or laser paper. But this paper seems very specific to screen printing inks. I am just wondering if somebody can do a video on how the different transfer papers are made to explain why one cant be substituted for the other. Also some arts/craft iron on objects look to be the same as the screen printing paper ones. But then again there is the ink jet toner transfer paper...etc
You can defiantly use a higher mesh when transfer printing, give it a whirl ::) Ryan
With adhesive on the pallet, how do you not have powder sticking to the back of the paper and then to the top of your heat press?
Honestly wash tests we've done have shown that plastisol heat transfers last less time. Although the ink is the same you're throwing the Adhesive powder in the mix. The adhesive powder is what makes the plastisol re-stick to the t-shirt. When the adhesive powder breaks down in the wash the plastisol losses it's bind to the t-shirt. When you screen print directly to the t-shirt there's no adhesive required for the ink to stick to the t-shirt.
Great Video Ryan! Looking forward to make Transfers with ur Products! Thanks!!!
you are brilliant, are the transfer paper reusable for another print screen ?
mohamed aljawder Not once used they are not
Ryonet so they are only one time usage , can plastisol printed t-shirt be iron on the face of t-shirt? does ironing will spoil the plastisol screen printed design on the t-shirt?
Well if you already have the heat press and you already have the screen printing press then all you need is three more things. A teflon sheet for heat transferring, the heat transfer paper and heat transfer powder adhesive. I left a new link in the description titled "The Supplies You Need:"click that link and it will take you to a page with all the products you need to get started.
Great. So you use those transfer papers only once?
Good morning! yes, they are one use.... while i have to admit, i've never tried using them more than once. To get the best economy out of the paper, i will gang up logos, meaning if i'm doing some logos for hats or inside labels, i'll fit a bunch on the sheet and then cut them apart after printing.... Happy printing!
Do you have any video to print 2 colors in a polypropylene bags . You know this is very sensitive to the heat . Whatever video help screen printing directly or using transfer paper
You can go as high as 305 @55lpi if you use a first down base like Wilflex TransClear- The ink will split from the first down 100% and also hold your fine halftone dots in place.
I appreciate the reply, but this only answers part of my question. I need to know about the entire kit, including the actual Screen, the squeegee, the Ink to use, the print/stencil, etc., etc.. You only gave the papers required & adhesive powder. Where can I get a whole kit that has everything from step 1 all the way down to the end? Thanks again.
Thanks for this great video!
Couple of questions:
1. How many transfers do you think can be made per hour using this method?
2. When you printed the black shirt it had that white stuff on it, I guess it was the adhesive powder? How to avoid that? Maybe there are other ways to do it without a powder?
Thanks
gvy88kz 1. I would say manually roughly 100-120, 2. To avoid the adhesive powder, shake the transfer paper more vigorously, or you can use a screen printable adhesive and a 3rd screen to apply the adhesive instead of using powder.
do you sell a screen printable adhesive?
how do you shrink the paper if you do not have one of the dryers as you did in the video? how would i do this at home?
Brenshevia Baker You need at least a flash dryer in order to do this, if you have a flash dryer you can pre heat/shrink under that.
Do you sell the adhesive glue so I dont have to use the powder
very clear tutorial. thank you RyoPaque
Jun Gasendo Thanks for the comment!
this video helped a lot!!!
Q- wouldn't making another screen for a clear underbase. or screen printed transfer glue, be so much easier and less...dusty? or is the powder giving the best results?
thanks!!!!!!!!!!!
Hey there! With these heat transfer sheets, the powder is an important part of the transfer process! The transfer powder is what facilitates the actual transfer process between the gel cured ink and the shirt. The powder can be a little dusty, true, but remember that you don't need to use a lot! Just enough to cover the image, then you can tap the rest off. :)
That's an adhesive base/backing (last down) like TransFlex you are referring to, where the ink sticking to the garment (wetting) is problematic. The first down bases are meant for 4 color process and spot process types of heat transfer production. Where higher mesh counts and lower stencil thickness are required..
Good print
+Ganiu Mahama Thanks for watching!
Great video man! You should do a video on screen printing skateboards if you can.
FictionFigure been on the bucket list for a while : ) R
When I do the wash test the print stays on but the problem is that the edges slightly lift but the print is solid and on the garment. What could be the problem.
Hey Anthony. For the layer of ink you used for your adhesive powder - did it cover the entire image?
Can you choke the underbase on a multi color.....meaning will the powder glue stick to the top color when flashed. I'm wondering if the top color that bleeds over the underbase, I'm wondering if the top overbleed will stick to the shirt
Morning David and happy Wednesday. Couple different ways of basing. (i heard it on the street that there's a video coming for this exact thing) One way is to actually spread/stroke the base to be larger than the image and then use a clear instead of white. The other is exactly what you mentioned, choking the base more than normal. the top color that overhangs the base will normally grab enough of the powder to stick fine. hope this helps for the moment. Happy printing!
great tutorial , my one question is if I am doing a one color dark print on a light garment do I have to flash the print or can I apply adhesion powder right away after my print? Black print on White garment. Thanks!
+Biglsyny Biglsyny Great question. Check out this video with one of our friends from Guru Ink, in it he covers the process for making single color heat transfers. ruclips.net/video/YDnZs4M_5Tk/видео.html
+Ryonet Thank you so much. You guys are truly the BEST in customer service.
+Biglsyny Biglsyny Only because we have the BEST customers in the world! Thanks a ton!!
@ryonet is it possible to do waterbased ink heat transfer? thanks?
I have a Heat Press Machine that I paid $300+ for & I would like to use a plastisol transfer paper. What is the best way to transfer plastisol onto sheet paper for a heat press transfer? What is the cheapest kit to create the plastisol to paper?
hi Ryonet
i am new to heat transfer printing, can you please tell me what type of flash cure you are using, as our flash cure taking long time to cure and eventually burning the paper. i can not see orange light of lamps on the panel while curing, so am wondering what type of flash cure you are using to dry the ink!
by the way great video.
Awais Latif the flash dryer is this onewww.silkscreeningsupplies.com/product/LGFL1800, try raising the flash dryer so the heat is not so direct.
My buddy's bday is coming up and I want to get him a shirt with my face on it, what's the best way to print a face on a shirt?
Alexander Brown I would use halftones and a photo.
This heat transfer paper can using againt ?
Hi Ryan great videos i want to make plastisol transfers but finding it difficult in Ecuador the transfer paper for plastisol i can get, but instead of the powdered adhesive they have given me a paste? make a pass of the paste on the screen first onto the paper then the ink , use the heat gun then ready to go, is this true do you know of this technique? then i am offered a special ink called sublimata for screen printing, with this they say i just run the ink onto the paper no need for adhesive , any advice on the first process i mentioned would be great cheers
Hi there. I have a couple of questions for you.
1. What is the cleaning stuff called that you use to clean off plastisol ink off the screen?
2. Is there a special screen that had to be used to use the plastisol ink with glitter?
- I bought plastisol ink with glitter cause I’m making a basketball mom shirt and I would like the basketball to be glittery, but when I was testing out the ink in a small portion of fabric the glitter was not passing through? It just stayed on the top of it. Am I doing something wrong?
3. How long do you heat press the plastisol ink? I know it has to be at 320 but how long should I actually leave it pressing for?
4. Have you used the emulsion hardner stuff before for your screens and how well did that work if so?
Thanks.
yes
Nice explanation, thanks for sharing!
No prob! Thanks for taking the time to watch!
as in how many washes before any cracking starts to happen. personally I prefer the softer hand of water based but plastisol seems to be cheaper.
will this work for hats as well? will the transfer hold up as
Do you have any of the clear ink to put on the back before the powder if you don’t have a solid color background?
Can you rephrase that? We're a little confused, sounds like two questions in one.
which heatpress should we use for screen transfers? is there anny diff between sublimation heatpresses and screens?
Great questions! Heat presses for sublimation are the same :)
+Ryonet thanks for your generous reply. iam getting a 5 in one printer on which I can use mugs caps etc..will that work ok on screen transfer papers?
Sir u didn't cut the rest of the paper mean other part then the design. does it draw a line on shirt..like In sublimation
If the heat press or sublimation paper is smaller than the shirt itself, then yes, it will likely leave a mark. As for your question on if transfer paper will work or not, I could not say. You would want to contact the manufacturer of the 5 in 1 printer.
+Ryonet thanks
what is the clear backer I can use, on black fn ink I would like to make a transfer with?
HI @urjnlegend ! here's a couple deep dive videos that are more recent. I believe that the clear backer in this video may no longer be offered. So these may help fill in some gaps.
ruclips.net/video/tKZiUiAD2V8/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/VF0HGUWwbHo/видео.html
Hope that helps!
Ive heard so many way to add the powder, before the cure or after the cure... I’ve done after the cure but my press takes anywhere between 30 to 55 seconds. What is the shelf life of the paper with the powered cure vs the non powdered cure?
What’s that white powder before heat dryer
Good morning, @Salman Razak! The white powder is an adhesive powder that helps the ink to stick to the garment. Here's a link... www.screenprinting.com/products/transfer-adhesion-powder-plastisol-transfer-adhesive-1-lb
Hope that helps.
@@Ryonet thanks for the reply, really appreciate it. I really liked the way you explained the process from start till end. I am gathering all the local info for material and accessories. Planning to start my own line of T-shirts. There is lot to learn, types, process, color grading, materials... etc
Thanks again for the reply
To semi cure the plastisol on the heat transfer 8-10 seconds at 270 degrees?
There is a lot of argument on water-based ink completely replacing plastisol going forward into the future for multiple reasons. But whether that’s true or not, I think there is an increased interest in people wanting to do this with water-based inks. What is the differences and can’t you just replace platisol with water-based ink if you’re going to add a wet underbase to adhere the powder too and heat cure it using the same process? Why or why not?
There are a couple limitations for doing WB transfers.
1) The ink needs to be made specifically to be used as a transfer. You cant grab just any WB ink and create a transfer with it.
2) You still need to cure the ink on the PET transfer paper before transferring.
Most print shops are not set up to properly cure WB transfers that last through multiple wash cycles.
Which leads to the bigger discussion of: From a shop production point of view, the U.S. is based around printing plastisol. Small dryers and small autos with a single flash.
Great video!
hi, does heat press is good enough to cure the plastisol print? i know it would mess the ink on the heatpress but i think using a heat gun first before the heatpress would do. What do you think?
real keeper It does a good job! set to 330 cure for about 30 seconds
what silk screen machine are you using btw?
After you have screen printed the plastisol onto the paper, you then add plastisol adhesion powder. What other ways besides flash drying the image can you use to cure it, before heat pressing the transfer?
You can use only a conveyor dryer with someone standing at the end of the dryer to catch and stack the sheets or a flash. Heat guns and other solutions don't work consistently enough.
Where do you get the designs you’re printing?
Good question, @cynthia percell. We usually have someone internally put together the design. This video is old enough that i really have no idea, but it was probably someone in either our marketing or education dept....
@@Ryonet thank you
I have made some screen print transfers before. Once I heat press the transfer on the shirt I have issues with the stretch test. The designs cracks. What could be the issues or does that typical happen with reverse transfers ?
Thanks for the question! If you give our success team a call at 800-314-6390 or email them at success@ryonet.com they can help you out!
Is there a type of printer compatible for the peeling paper? & where can I get the paper?
If you are only printing on light shirts, you can use this. www.screenprinting.com/screen-printing-supplies/inkjet-transfer-paper/inkjet-heat-transfer-paper-sheet-11x17.html#.UvAPG7SDIqI
Currently we use a flash dryer to cure (in the process of buying a conveyor dryer). Is it possible to preshrink and cure the transfer paper all with a flash dryer?
Hey there! You can definitely do that. The process would just be the same, except under your flash instead of going through a tunnel. As long as you gel your ink correctly, and preshrink the transfer paper, you'll be good to go! Feel free to reach out to us at success@ryonet.com or 800-314-6390 if you have any questions about the process!
I'm on an automatic press trying to print transfers for the first time. I have a three color design using plastisol inks and a clear underbase, and flashing after each of the first two colors. However, I'm having problems with the ink sticking to the next screen and visibly pulling from my design after flashing. I've tried different flash times, lower squeegee pressure, and off contact and have also tried switching the first two color stations. Any insights on how to fix this?
Curious... why the need to put marks on the pallet around the corners of the paper? It seems to me it's not important to put the paper in the same spot for each print. What am I missing?
This is to center your print on the paper and helps you watch if the paper moved or not. Just a reference point. If you use a platen tape on your platen, you can always just replace the tape when doing a different print.
Also, is this a cheaper alternative to going into a print shop and just getting shirts done? I own a clothing company and I have all the blank shirts myself, would it make more sense to get transfers made? I dont want to have 100 shirts already made that I cant sell. Thanks.
After the initial investment for materials, it's almost always cheaper to print your own! That's why I started screen printing : )
How many colors can screen print on a sheet of transfer paper?
So do you sell custom made plastisol heat transfers?
Zach Pileggi We don't but if you go to www.transferexpress.com that is what they do
Preshrinking the paper makes it curl and wrinkle/bubble on the platen. What's the remedy?
can we print with glow in the dark ink on transfer paper and store it for later use?
Most definitely! Just make sure it's plastisol :)
+Ryonet do you need a underbase cant you just put the powder sr8 on the red ink ?
XxxCR1SPYxxX- If you did not want the white background inside the logo then yes. This is the same as printing a single color logo.
+Darkside Graphix iheard without underbase itll crack? white n black dont crack as easy for some reason ive noticed. should i do white underbase on top of blue or just blue on blue or just one layer of ink is good enough? imight just order them theyre only 2$
If you not using the adhesion powder it will crack. You can do just single color prints.
can I use a flash dryer to pre shrink the transfer paper? if so what could be the right temperature to do? please someone help me!!!!
So long as the paper gets fairly hot for a minute you're good, no major science to it. Set the flash for hi or 600+ degrees :)
Can you use a heat press to pre shrink the paper?
whats the benefit of transfering pprint on paper, if we can print it directly on shirt? and secondly then whats the need of heatpress? confused :(
Hey there Danyal! Thanks for asking! Transfers can be used in a variety of ways. Their main use is for live, traveling screen printers, and for shops that do the same design multiple times throughout the year. This allows you to put the design on paper, store it/file it away, or carry it with you to a location with a heat press, like a concert. The heat press is used to actually transfer the design from the paper to the garment - effectively curing it.
+Ryonet thanks alot man.that will help
Pleasure!
Did you do a choke on the under base or was it true to the edge with 100% reg?
It's always good to choke your underbase back by .5 to 1 pt in your artwork. this helps to ensure it does not show on the side :)
Can this be done with an auto?
im gettn sum transfers from a friend but wen i press them the transfer peals off???
The transfer peels off the t-shirt? You are making sure to use the adhesive powder?
ima have 2 double check tht ! thank u
So if I order plastisol heat transfers from a print shop, can I use my heat press to cure the garment afterwards too?
Howdy Kyle! After pressing the heat transfer with your heat press, that garment already would be ready for wear!! : )
I have a problem with my 2 color transfers , I am printing an American flag with a baseball cather in the middle , I am printing the catcher last so my American flag is dry when I get to the finishing point so there for I'm not able to get the powder to stay on my flag and its causing it to peel off my garment any suggestions ?
Hey there! You are probably overflashing your transfers, so the inks are curing too much. You'll need to speed up your flash process so that you don't get the inks too hot.
Nichole Reynolds - if you're flashing, powder won't stick to it. Powder needs wet ink to stick. Watch this video again, you'll see what he's doing. You're using plastisol right?
can u make a video that how to make artwork like the t shirt u wear. I want to know how to separate that blue and white screen in ur t shirt. Because i think the color is seperate , its not overlapping.
What can I add to white to get a soft, bright, opaque pressed print?
Thanks.
Hey there! If you're looking to get your white ink smoother and easier to work with, you can use a little curable reducer, no more than 10% added by weight, though the less added the better. You want to be careful not to add too much reducer, or you will lose opacity.
Heat pressing a design will always create a softer feel than traditional screen printing, so that is another factor to keep in mind.
You can find our curable reducer here: www.screenprinting.com/wilflex-epic-curable-reducer
Ryonet what about softhand base?
can you use water based ink to do transfers
+Art Barnett great question! This technology has not been created yet or at least hasn't come to market. But we are researching this heavily ;)
Cool thanks for the info
Please call 800-314-639 and we'll set you up with the entire kit. Kits vary from person to person so it would be more beneficial if you called in so one of our experts could taylor make a kit for you. RUclips has too many restrictions when it comes to linking people to products and we want to make sure you get exactly what you need.
sir i want to know.what color we use in screen printing for transfer printing
+GAGAN KUMAR Should be any color workable.
Would this process work with your RyoCharge for the softer hand??
Hey there! This would not work with RyoCharge, as you have to achieve proper cure temp and dwell time when curing any type of discharge. Because of the nature of a heat transfer, with the gel cure and eventual press cure, RyoCharge can't be used for heat transfers.
By doing a plastisol heat transfer, however, you will be getting a softer hand than if you did a traditional plastisol print, as the heat presses compresses the ink down into the shirt, making it softer.
Are those cracks in the image part of the design, or a flaw in this screen printing process?
Ptah Ra A part of the image :)
Great tutorial and work. Thanks!!
What about heat transfer to paper on heat sensitive garments? Specialized ink such as wiliflex ink.
15x15 is most popular
15X15? I am looking to transfer inks that cure at a low temp. Any Ideas?
Nathan Hill
Use a low cure additive.
Low cure additive would be added to what? The ink? The adhesive powder?
The ink, sir, www.screenprinting.com/screen-printing-supplies/screen-printing-ink-additive-gallons/ic-low-cure-additive-gallon.html#.U3EWl1eTJpk
What T-shirt brand is that? I like the neck line on it
SFREEMUSIC1 That was a gildan I believe
Can you do this with water base inks?
with waterbase ink you can't use transfer paper... you need pet transfer film/plastic
@@phoekymay7257 why? If you’re using an underbase wet and adding adhesive powder to heat cure gel, Why does it matter whether it’s platisol or water-based think?
No additive required :) just powder the print before you run it through the conveyor dryer.
Hi, which spray adhesive are you using on the pallet on this video? Thanks
+Javier HotWheels I believe it was RyoMist: www.screenprinting.com/ryo-spray-adhesive-mist-orm-d
+Ryonet in the dark garment will the powder disappear after washing the garment ??
The powder is an adhesive that sticks to the plastisol transfer and holds the plastisol to the shirt. There shouldn't be powder on the garment.
but is too hard to get rid of it with hands or is any other technique to remove it clearly ?
Thanks!! :-) Great video
How do you remove paint stuck on the screen in silk screen printing?
+Elleirra Razalle great question! If your ink is clogging up your screen you can use a good ink degrader like supreme was or aqua wash to help loosen thing sup. Water based inks can also be broken down with water to reduce chemical usage :) Here you go:
www.screenprinting.com/sgreen-supreme-wash-qt
www.screenprinting.com/sgreen-aqua-wash-quart