How To Square A K Member
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- K MEMBER! HOW TO SQUARE A K MEMBER! K TALK! MUSTANG GT!
Hello everyone in today's video I'm showing the process of how to square your K member and why it's an important process! The K member is apart of the front suspension and holds the motor in place alongside the motor mounts.
How to remove your factory K : • Mustang K Member Remov...
Subscribe if you'd like to see this mustang drift into a wall (most likely)
Instagram : www.instagram....
Outro Song : / shaolin-beazy-rcbeats-...
#THATLOWDSG #DRIFTBUILD #PROJECTDRIFTSTANG #CROWDKILLER #2V #KMEMBER #HOWTOSQUAREAKMEMBER #KTALK
#MUSTANGBUILD #NOCROWDSHARMED
Great video. FYI torque specs are only based on three things. Grade bolt/nut, thread pitch, and diameter of bolt/nut. So, if the factory k-member with factory hardware is 89 and 72 ft-lbs, and the AJE uses new but same hardware, then the torque specs are identical
Great video good job I can't wait to see more content I have a 03 GT premium and I love that car.
Nothing beats owning a nice new edge! Glad you enjoyed & thank you for the feedback!
nice video bro!! Good content, good editing and very informing!
I appreciate it and glad you could make the vid of use!
Super good videos ! 🙌🙌🤘
Hey thank you for the support man!!
Life saver 😂 good work man 🤘🏽
hopefully this helps you there is no torque spec for the aje k member just make sure they are tight would recommend puttintg loc tite on the bolts your choice red or blue
Yeah I found that out when I couldnt find an accurate forum on them lol, but thank you for the heads up & information thank you 🙏
how big of a pain is it to square this? I have the front suspension apart and the lower controls arms off already and not you got me thinking, while I'm already this far, haha
Thanks man!
That low dsg also I bought some cheap shorties from speed daddy on eBay I had to drill out bigger holes and now I have to grind the u shaped bolt holes down towards the flange because my studs don't wanna line up lol
Sounds like a bunch of custom work! Nice 👍🏼
@@Thatlowdsg it's a pain in the ass bro I'm about your age lmao I'm no mechanic but I love my 4.6 so I'm doing everything in my power to get these headers on because I know it'll make it sound way better. Post a sound clip of your car man people love to watch fly bys and sound clips! I'd watch them lol
I added a Qa1 tubular K member in my 02 and never squared it. No problems either after alignment...
That’s good to hear! Didn’t hurt me to take measurements.
Great job
I appreciate that !
I’m doing one now on a 93 GT Mustang
Would this also work with the 99-04 cobra rear IRS cradles?
I'm honestly not even sure how the rear IRS is hooked up so I couldn't guarantee a yes answer but since the car is still a unibody and the chassis is the same I'd say its safe to safe the frame measurements wouldn't be the issue. But really I'm not familiar with the rear IRS so I hope this could be of some use.
What's the spring rate you chose? And why? You're getting rid of you're sway bar for an angle kit right?
Im keepin my steeda 35mm sway bar for now, I eventually plan on an angle kit but for now ill be running my sway bar till I can do the angle kit. i chose 11k springs up front hoping for a softer and more comfortable ride up front. And hoping it would compensate if I took my sway bar off, my rear spring rate is 5k, due to the design its only allowed at 5k otherwise I would’ve done 8k in the rear. Hope this helps!
@@Thatlowdsg it does, do you know if that limitation applies to the cobra irs as well?
I believe the Cobra Irs you can change the rears as well.
Noice
Couldn’t of said it any better!!
I have this exact k member but I’m a little boggled. I keep smacking the k member but it’s not even budging. I loosen all the bolts even only have 2 front bolts in and it still won’t budge. I notice only 1 side of the k member is slotted so how would it adjust if the driver side of the k member is perfect sized for the bolt allowing no room for adjustment? Any help would be appreciated.
Further AJE instructions say just do the front driver side and passenger bolts and it should square itself. After doing some measurements it looks like it’s pretty far off
If one side is slotted and the other isn’t try to set the slotted side to where the non slotted side would sit to even it out. From there loosen the bolts take some measurements and see if you can get different results hitting it. My K had slots on both sides so I’m not sure exactly sure how to help but i hope what I said can.
I found the same thing my AJE Kmembers have no slot. Just 4 round holes no error for mistakes to me it seems if bolts line up with holes that it is square. I talk with AJE techs 76 ftlbs to frames and 65 ftlbs on motor mount bolts and the rack & pinions that the 4 bolts the 4 inch are motor mount and the 4 1/2 inch are rack &pinions
Do i have to square the factory k member or is it just the aftermarkets???
You shouldn’t have to square the factory one
@@Thatlowdsg I was literally purchasing a UPR K-Member , and now that I know I have to square it and all that crap. I'm good. I'm keeping my Stock K-Member. You can keep all that math bro! Lol! Thanks again!
Does this apply if your replacement is a stock K member?
Honestly I’m not sure if you need to with the factory one, it may already be dialed in but I would still do the measurements I show in the video to make sure. (I didn’t measure it before so I’m not sure)
@@Thatlowdsg on the stock k member, there's that one hole that you had to drill in, already in the k member and the frame. What's your thoughts on me just aligning the holes and moving forward? I ask because it's impossible for me to put the car at level due to the nature of my situation so if I just have to loosen the k member one more time, align the holes and tighten, then that would make things easier.
2/16 ummm or 1/8 🤦🏼♂️