Whomever it was that came up with this story doesn't understand the chemistry of these coatings. 2K primer sanded with 800 grit will NOT be porous. The activator interlocks with the primer on a molecular level. During my career as an environmental engineer with our state regulatory agency, I worked with Axalta, DuPont, Sherwin Williams, US Paints, every big paint manufacturer in the state. I learned all the chemistry of these coating from dudes who were EXPERT chemists. 22 of this stuff and it took half that time to even get to a point of having just a basic level of understanding the reactions and chemical ingredients. So I can vouch for you there. 100% you are correct.
@@colorbosscustomautobody8140 FINALLY!!! A MAN THAT KNOWS HIS SHIT!!! 🥳🥳🥳 I'm all alone out here bro. Thanks for breaking it down for them. I know it works I just don't have all of the spicy wording. But excellent explanation 💪🏼👌🏼👌🏼👌🏼 But it will stop sand scratch swelling? LEARN TO PREP And you won't have sand scratch swellings 🤦🏼♂️ I learned to paint over lacquer primer. There was no such thing as a 2K primer or a 2K sealer. When you learn to prep correctly you don't need all of this gimmicky stuff.
Im with you on this,Sealer is part of the painting system what ever it be,Sherwin Williams,dupount/axalta,PPG or what ever it is now. If need use it and its up to the painter
I am a custom painter /pinstriper/ airbrush with almost 50 years painting Custom cars, bikes, boats planes, buses, toilet seats you name it i painted it, this gentleman knows what he's doing , so listin to him ......Steve
Ive been painting and airbrushing custom graphics for awhile, not as long as you but I agree. This dude is actually one of the better painters on yourube who do things right, and is consistent with what he does rather than constantly changing
@@HPAcustomriflesandcerakote thank you man. I appreciate that. Honestly I think it's because a lot of the BIG channels on RUclips are from guys that are actually still in the beginning stages of learning the trade and they are still influenced by other platforms such as TikTok Instagram and whatnot. So for me have been spraying for almost 30 years now and going through all of the proper education it's like I know what I know and there's not a new fancy trick on TikTok that could cause me to sway from what I actually know. Of course there are tips and tricks we can learn from others but once you have a foundation of how these things really work That's pretty much set in stone. Thank you again for chiming in 👊🏼
Exactly 😂 2k it's crosslinked even if you sand it everything below that is still closed. It's mechanically connected via scratches at that point. Do ya thang Trigger. ✊🏾
Your absolutely right about the sealer. I work on aircraft/parts and for 8 years we always used sealer. It wasnt until i went to the next place that i stopped sealing everything. No problems at all.
@@Whitening98 and had you not gone to the second place you would still be under the impression that you " have to seal everything " now you have that "experience" and you know it's not a must, but it does work. I just wish there were more real painters that have been in the trade for more than 20 years to help spread the real knowledge of this trade. These people watching videos only respect " subscriber " count and they really thing high subscriber means knowledge and real painters see right through the gimmicks. If I do some of the real tricks I know these people would go crazy. So I have to wait until my channel gets bigger before I start doing that stuff. Thank you for watching bro 💪🏼
Now you got it 🙌 ..I did mention on a video ago ..that you Don't need to always apply sealer ..Clean 2k primer, clean prep...=.Clean Finish, Outstanding video 🙌✌🏽
Keep in mind we are talking about standard day to day Collision work. Not restoration cars being primed for a year. Primer sanded, or non sanded, even sealer sitting out in the weather is porous.
Spot on on the sealer.... The benefit of sealer is that you can spray it on and recoat over it without sanding. Not a requirement when it is still fairly fresh....There is a window of time to do this just like epoxy primer. Sealer is great for cut throughs. and not required if there is perfectly sanded 2k primer. and if you sand the sealer it is absolutely the same as if you have sanded 2k primer. Sealer is a great tool and can be used or not used depending on what you are doing.
Facts. Basically just letting the guys know they have options. Most of the guys that watch these videos are doing this stuff at home. A lot of things I do on the channel I do completely opposite at times sometimes I paint panel by panel sometimes I walk the entire side of the car, sometimes I use sealer sometimes I don't , sometimes I use a wet bed and sometimes I don't, and it's basically just to show that there so are many ways to get the same outcome and there is not one way to do any of this. Thanks for chiming in Mike. 💪🏼♥️
After painting yachts for 45 years, I can tell you that painting cars is much more involved. For the boats we use two-part epoxy primers sanded to 400. With AwlGrip or Alexseal Topcoats (two part polyurethanes) we spray one tack coat and then two wet coats. That's it. They last 10 years.
On the regular I try to avoid sealing over primer if not necessary…mind you I got a bad ass prepper …raw bumpers are always a must but the rest can be your preference, depending on the color and coverage also or the shops rules also .
There you have it 💯 see man i need all of the real painters in the field like you to chime in. Enough of this sesame Street RUclips bullshit. And yes raw bumpers and new parts are a must. 💪🏼🫡🫵🏼🫵🏼
@@thetriggerman954 trigga you one of the realest when it comes to getting to the point and NO BS advice ……you always addressing the issues that really matter !!!
Where I work, they do prefer us to seal most things. But not everything, like smaller repairs. You’re doing what works for you and that’s awesome and all that matters. It works. Keep grinding man, I appreciate the insight from your experience.
Thanks for nice video. In my case we paint tons of white vans. Paint is white and new parts come black. We simply seal it all to cut the cost of the white paint. Gallon of white sealer is $85. Once sealed it needs just 1 -1/2 coat of white paint to cover it. Agree that is not necessary to cover 2k primed spots, often it created sand pilling that needs to be sanded before spraying the base. Extra spraying, extra cleaning, extra overspray , dust etc.
Yeah man new parts should definitely seal regardless. Plus like you save money on materials. Now that is understandable. And you're right about the sand piling from sealer just extra work
Great work as always with excellent content!!! Also Trig can you please tell me what DeKups adapter you use on the Porphis 717? My research tells me it’s a 81 but would like to verify if possible before I order one! Thanks
The biggest reason that I can think of for the sealer is when you live in an area that has lots of gravel and dirt roads. When the pain is finished then you can put a sealer on the whole car. I live in Eastern Oregon (when I live in America) and there are many if not the major amounts of roads are either gravel or pumice dirt. That is the only reason I can see for using a sealer before the finish and the final seal coat. I would also be interested in what you have to say about the issue I would be up against.
Hello triggerman you are an awesome painter idgaf whatever anyone gat to say you are blessing to this platform period! Please if don’t mind put the links to get the mini gun and nozzle down below
I would like to learn more about that open blend spot you did on the rear, how to prep for one, do you need to polish afterwards or just leave it, do you “melt” it in, etc? As well is there any tips or tricks when choosing the right variant/color chip for color match?
Triggerman you are absolutely right . I agree with you. Today I just applied base over 2k primer. No sealer was used over the 2k primer. No issues whatsoever. The base laid on fine, then I cleared over the base. Covered very well. . I do agree with you about using sealer over burn throughs. If there are any burn throughs definetly should be sealed. You mentioned in the video that adding reducer to the 2k primer will turn it into a sealer. What percentage reducer should be used for the 2k to act as a sealer? Thanks.
@@georgepetrillo7316 remember that's on certain products. And it will specify in the data sheet for that product. Majority of the ones that can be turned into a sealer are usually 25% reduction with reducer. But I tend to go a little more than 25% because I like to have very minimal orange peel in my finished product. In my opinion I feel it's okay to over reduce sealer to get the finish you're looking for simply because you're just looking for a barrier I'm not putting down sealer to cover scratches and pinholes and other imperfections from poor prep work. But definitely check your data sheet on the materials
@@thetriggerman954 Thanks. I was using Omni 2k. Was just looking at the spec sheet , but nothing that states it can be used a sealer. It's Omni 282. ratio of 4:1 as a filler primer . 4:1:1 is the ratio when adding reducer. The 4:1:1 with the reducer could give this primer sealing qualities. Thanks for your input.
Seal or no seal this man can paint! that thing looks flawless right out of the booth wow 😮😮 Even for not removing handles or mirror that thing looks great. Nice job trigger. The shop I work at we have sealer but the owner leaves it to our discretion, there are three painters there and most of the time none of us seal unless there's a problem beforehand.
@@Howiesgarage thank you sir 🫡 and yes that's how it is. If you want to use it use it if you don't, don't use it like you said use your own discretion if the panel is iffy then use it if it's good clean 2K substrate hey it's already sealed in my book. Thanks for chiming in brother 💪🏼
I always use a sealer over my primer after I block sand. It gives me a lot better finish. Rather than sanding and putting base down then. Yea you can put base down over it if sanded to 800grit and it will be good. I just do not like to spray 2k high build with my 1.8mm then put base coat over once it flashes since its such a ruff finish. So i block it up to 400grit and put sealer down with a 1.3mm then go right into base coat once it flashes. A chemical bond is always better than a mechanical bond in my opinion
@@GeorgiaGonzales-f6u each product is different anytime you buy materials always get a technical data sheet on the product and follow the directions. They will say something like 5 to 6 hours, 24 hours or you can force dry it in the Sun or you can put it through a bake cycle so it all depends. I typically like to wait 24 hours with the vehicle sitting in the sun. I'll go sometimes we'll use a heat lamp and force to dry for about an hour.
It's good stuff to stop rust if your doing a fabrication job in your spare time in your driveway like me. Benefits of being given a old truck, I'm lucky everything underneath was in good shape, and it was driven until the day I got it not sitting.
Great work TriggerMan wen an if necessary yes sealer is. A must in certain paint jobs wre th unknown layers are there (restoration jobs)… what’s ur thoughts in tinting th sealer for an overall restoration job?…
Your right about the primer, here in the UK it’s quite common practice to base over properly sanded high build primer with no sealer, it is true that high build primer is somewhat porous especially if you wet sand it but not just by dry sanding it
Yes it's porous for like being left outside in the weather but not for doing a regular paint job like we're doing day in day out. Furthermore 2K primer and 2k sealer are both porous if left out in the weather.
Trigg...how are you man?I never seal any paint job except new plastic bumpers....if i have some burn corners i put some etch primer with a mini gun....For me the most important is the preparation and correct 2k hue off the primer(dark or light grey) for better color cover....Yes sealer is good but for me produces extra orange peal....
Great video as always buddy.I’ve been doing this since 16 years old and now 52 and I only seal the odd job.if you do as you say prep well and use your 2k primer correct why would you need to seal and do another step ? Your totally right it’s not always needed.Yes I do on new panels etc but not on most normal repairs:) this one came out pukka mate looks the dogs danglys 😜😜
Lol in British slang it means like cool or excellent type of thing 👍 or a distinguished gentleman 😜 great advice buddy for all the home painters and pros alike 👍👍
I started sealing all my rust repairs and old classics with epoxy sealer after polyester primer. I use reduced epoxy over the entire body(full paint job) Then i actually wet sand the body by hand after it dries with 600 or 800 to insure the smoothest surface. In Michigan, have had my best luck with this process. But again, i'm doing oldies or rust jobs. So that is what works for me.
If it works that's all that matters. I started out doing rusto work. Blocking and priming on a rotisserie. So I get it. Some cars we sealed some we didn't. It's whatever works. Thanks Big Bear 💪🏼
@@thetriggerman954 yeah, polyester and epoxy is all I have here now. I did 3 years of trials seeing what worked for me on these rust buckets. Can add acetone to the polyester if I want less build. With my low pressure turbine I use surprisingly little epoxy to cover a panel and give myself a little peace of mind and a nice paint ready repair that is sealing the poly, filler, fiberglass, concrete, expanding foam🤣😁🤣😁🤣 you know, whatever it took to fix dat rust!!😝
The most real and best painter on RUclips in my opinion. The work speaks for it. Even in the old spray booth them paint jobs come out amazing. I can tell he been doing the thing for awhile.
A semi truck doin 100k miles in a year. Durability wise, would a color tinted sealer over tinted primer (black) and 4 or 5 coats of clear help hide the inevitable chips? Thanks.
Maybe spray a coat of chip guard underneath. That'll really prevent some rock chips. I did that on my Colorado a few years back making nice soft edge line put the chip guard and spray over it adds a noticeable texture that will save you hell of headaches
Got to love the at home pros telling a guy thats been doing it for 25+ years how to paint lol.Ive been in this game since 2003 and i have done it the exact way you done it in this vehicle with 0 issues.Ive been at this shop the entire time and not 1 comeback,do your thing trigger!!!
I know most of you real painters out there know this stuff. I just don't like seeing these guys trying to learn being misinformed and only thinking that there is one way.
I think the commenter is possibly confusing 2k body filler with 2k primer. The first time I helped prep a car, I sanded a nickel size area of filler and forgot to prime over it. The painter was pretty mad when the exposed body filler sucked up the base. I learned my lesson 😂
Trigger what’s a good mid tear clear to use ? I’ve been using Acme FC 720 sow hardener it’s like impossible to cut trash and sags out of it’s been two months and seem like it’s soft !
I usually see sealer as another chance to get trash in the paint that i will have to sand back out. If you're not in a great booth, its really not ideal especially for the other reasons you mentioned
I only use sealer (reduced primer) on burn-throughs or to create a barrier where layers are exposed that can create fry-ups. Other than that, sanded clear is a good sealer itself. I also prefer to spray primer as a surfacer... goes down smoother, so less sanding is needed. I use the same DTM primer for all 3.
Well just to be clear. As a backyard DIY'er that uses 2k primer, sands it, and does not use sealer for spot repairs like this. I have seen it suck up some paint i think. Now to be fair, that could of just been me on some shitty coverage... So that all said, I like to now put 2 coats of base over my primer spots, and check them good before I paint the whole panel. I have not seen any sucking up, bleed whatever in the months/years since, I started doing that.. So again, it was probably me, that left a light spot, and it showed through which made it look like it was absorbed into the primer.
Yes that's it Arron, that's what happens also guys put the base on and the primer is not fully cured. So they thing it sucked in because it wasn't sealed. You're absolutely correct 💯
Some primer yes, but not all primers are the same, if its polyester primer like Optex Super build, Evercoat slicksand or Featherfill, ot Eastwood contour, etc yesbit needs to be sealed because that is polyester and polyester is very much so porous but urethane, laquer, and epoxy primer are not and do not need sealing unless the prep was bad and left a bunch of bad sanding scratches
That's why I said in the video " if you are sealing for bad prep work" the you need to work on your craft. That shouldn't be a reason to seal. And it can be avoided by sharpening your kills
@@AlimAbrahim ok I got you. I'll have to wait until my prepper goes on vacation so I can prep some cars for you guy's. But I'll try to get something going 😉
I need some help please TriggerMan, I just painted the front of my van, 2 coats of primer 2 coats of base and 2 coats of clear, I dont like it so my question is how long till i can sand it down and re paint and how far down do I need to sand, thanks TriggerM an
Primer than seal. And only seal fiberglass if it's needed. Same thing applies. If you have a good solid 2k primer there isn't really a need. The boat guys 2 only 2k primer and paint.
Thanks for the advice, and thanks for all your teachings! 🙌🏾 that thing came out nice & clean!!!! If you don't mind me asking, what brand clearcoat & basecoat do you use? And what advice would you give on the best places to buy materials (paint, clear, intercoat)?
Thanks brother. You're more than welcome. We use ProSpray paint line. Here is a link for the clear and base coat blender that I use. Clear coat AmTech amzn.to/46jtjDl Base blender/wet bed www.amazon.com/s?k=TRANSTAR+%28LV-500%29&crid=2XLBFHRX2H71T&sprefix=transtar+lv-500+%2Caps%2C117&tag=thetriggerman-20
And as far as the paint I'm not really sure we purchase our base frona few near by paint suppliers. I hear there are tons of places online though. You might have to do some research. That's something I may try to figure out in the near future cuz a lot of guys ask me so maybe I'll try to hook up with some online paint company try their products and see if I can get some things going for you guys.
@thetriggerman954 Thanks a lot! That would be really helpful. I've looked at a few online places, they just seem to put such a hefty markup on the items, but I'll definitely keep searching. Thanks again!
Trigger. Could you do a video on a diy booth type of set up. I have a motorhome garage attached to my shop. I wanna multi purpose the motorhome area and turn it into a nice diy booth. I have 2 20” axial fans that can do a full air change in 1-1/2 minutes. I’m wondering is filter heights make a difference. Low vs high. Also lighting. Best I can tell you have one bank of lights about 5 feet off ground. Would more light be better. What would you do differently on your booth. Lighting airflow etc. I’m a diy painter. Bikes. Cars. Trailers and recently planes. I’m 60. Painted first bike at 26. I just wanna get better. I have good air supply. Clean n dry. That was a problem in the past. Appreciate You!
Sure man I'll try to go give my 2 cents. As far as filters height I would say somewhat in the middle would be good not to high and not to low most shops I've seen they are always in the middle of start from the bottom and go towards the middle. And the more lights the better. You can never have to much light. And probably and set lower than the 5 feet to catch things down below. Then a few up top as well. 1-2 min air change is pretty good that about how my booth flows more like 2.5 minutes
off the sealent subject .sorry , i gotta know Do you find in winter the primer not wanting to dry ,say @68 degrees . can one add thinner or just wait it out . using fast thinner now
Three paint reps (Axalta, Sherwin Williams, Valspar) all told me 2k primer seals on is own. You should use sealer over raw parts. On some overalls you should seal to have a uniform substrate and avoid a car that looks like a leopard. And you should use sealer if you're spraying bodywork done over a single stage finish. Keeps the solvents from lifting the old finish along the edge of the repair. This is what works for me
2k primer seals on it's own. " Case closed" next time you see those reps buy them lunch it's on me and tell me what I owe you 😂 And definitely sealer over raw plastic bumpers and new parts.
I like sealer because it (1.) helps with color coverage, (2.) incase there are any scratches paint would still show through, and (3.) it seems to also help almost like a wet-bed when used correctly. But at the edges of the sealer such as a repair spot you have to either sand smooth, use a blender, or a clear base up to the sealer to overcome the texture. I guess what I wonder about @The TriggerMan in your experience can you pile on the coats if you see scratches peeking through? I agree it's not always easy adding a step that opens you up to additional dirt/contaminants :/
@@kseries20-24only my vehicles are prepped correct there is never any scratches. I said that at the end of the video " if you're sealing because of scratches or pinholes the you need to work on your craft " people can "like" to use it for whatever reason but that doesn't mean it's "needed" I would rather take a few extra minutes prepping to ensure there are no scratches than to waste time and create more work by sealing. And saying it helps like a wet bed I don't even know what that means. And no piling on base coat because you see sand scratches would just be asking for trouble, it will most likely shrink and show scratches once everything cures.
@@christophervian1784 thanks man if I have more than 2 pieces of dirt in a panel I will denib the few pieces and use a mini polisher. That's about it. The phrase " off the gun" has been used very loosely now days I notice 😅😅
All the non painters seems to have all the right answers😂 there's never a text book right or wrong answer, mainly recommendations🤷🏽♂️ keep doing you my man, love the content and the sarcasm/sense of humour😂🤙🏾
Trigger man in the dungeon slaying the paint job Bro I can’t comment I know nothing of painting vehicles I watch the channel for info Enjoy how quick and easy you make it look to paint Keep up the good work and don’t listen to nobody’s negative opinions Keep on going Paint job came out 🔥🔥🔥🔥
I appreciate that! And it's not that the comments bother me. I just don't want them to misinform You guys the viewers. I know what I'm doing and they're ain't a person on RUclips that could tell me any different I just want to make sure that my viewers and subscribers know the difference between bullshit and real shit.
I’ve never seen a bad paint job in your channel But well said bro I’m watching your videos my grandson 2011 Civic roof is pealing so watching you paint .I might try out painting his roof 🙏🙏🙏🙏
I mainly only seal new parts. Don't see a benefit to sealing primer. My primer just gets a different mix ratio to be a sealer. Been doing this since 96. Got my collision repair license in 2000. Been at my current job 18 years. I do see some youtubers seal everything. With the paint I use, It will not cover like yours, right shade of primer is important. I just use a primer that can be mixed in any gray shade. I do turn the booth lights off and check my coverage.
Yeah man new parts are a must. At times I will tint the primer for that very reason. And I agree with you 100% my thing is the reason they are saying to seal, the whole porous reason. Now that is not even a real thing and doesn't warrant for using sealer.
Only reason I like sealer is to save me from sanding to 600/800 on metallics, seal same day as base/clear. Sealer I have right now though isnt for bare metal/burn throughs so I use spectral 395 in a can or 385-00 2k epoxy in the gun on the burns etc and shoot the sealer over the 320/360 scratch, nice warm feeling knowing adhesion is good. The highbuild I use is a zinc oxide epoxy that sands lovely, 305-00 by spectral again so double insurance.
@@thetriggerman954 Its just the clear I'm still trying to figure out, going to try the multi mix 2 or mipa cx4. Extremely little experience but everyday is a learning day. 🙏
That's fine if it's just little spot. And the 1k has completely cover the burn through. Just be cautious on the first 1-2 coats of base on that area because it could react if you put your ass really wet. Other than that you'd be good.
Started painting a year ago throw right in the fire at my nephews shop when painter left, l painted alot of cars and have never sprayed sealer yet,, only one had to be cut and buffed rest right from booth too customer,, l agree Trigg sealer just dosent make sense
@@thetriggerman954 l saw the previous painter spray grey sealer just before red paint and in a few minutes it looked almost pink from the sealer and paint mixing changing the shade,, l saw that coming
Most of my burn throws that are down to metal My prepper uses an SEM etch can primer prior to giving me the car ready. And even if it's a tiny spot of metal it's fine to seal it. Just not big areas.
Trigger is right. I'd love to add to all the different ways, but this isn't my channel, and there's so much to write. I've seen a guy finish his filler and putty work in 400, and double seal it with no primer, lol. Now I absolutely don't recommend that process but hey it worked for him till he got fired😂
Tell them trigger,if you finish your 2k primer off in 600 or 800 your preference I mainly 600 everything and don't have bare metal showing you don't have to seal it you can if you want or like you said your in a shop where you half too that's a different story Read your Psheets people know and understand your material Love your channel triggerman keep doing your thing much love from Detroit
Thank you John. And normally my prepper finishes off primer with 600 but for whatever reason on certain jobs she likes to use 800 grit which is fine with me she has her own style and I respect that and it doesn't affect my finish in any way. There's so many different ways to do this stuff and get the same outcome. Thanks again for timing in John. ♥️💪🏼
Whomever it was that came up with this story doesn't understand the chemistry of these coatings. 2K primer sanded with 800 grit will NOT be porous. The activator interlocks with the primer on a molecular level. During my career as an environmental engineer with our state regulatory agency, I worked with Axalta, DuPont, Sherwin Williams, US Paints, every big paint manufacturer in the state. I learned all the chemistry of these coating from dudes who were EXPERT chemists. 22 of this stuff and it took half that time to even get to a point of having just a basic level of understanding the reactions and chemical ingredients. So I can vouch for you there. 100% you are correct.
@@colorbosscustomautobody8140 FINALLY!!! A MAN THAT KNOWS HIS SHIT!!! 🥳🥳🥳 I'm all alone out here bro. Thanks for breaking it down for them. I know it works I just don't have all of the spicy wording. But excellent explanation 💪🏼👌🏼👌🏼👌🏼
But it will stop sand scratch swelling?
LEARN TO PREP And you won't have sand scratch swellings 🤦🏼♂️
I learned to paint over lacquer primer. There was no such thing as a 2K primer or a 2K sealer. When you learn to prep correctly you don't need all of this gimmicky stuff.
Im with you on this,Sealer is part of the painting system what ever it be,Sherwin Williams,dupount/axalta,PPG or what ever it is now. If need use it and its up to the painter
@@surfninjafishing8297 Yes siree!
I am a custom painter /pinstriper/ airbrush with almost 50 years painting Custom cars, bikes, boats planes, buses, toilet seats you name it i painted it, this gentleman knows what he's doing , so listin to him ......Steve
Thank you Steve, man you sure have painted some stuff in your lifetime. Salute 🫡 to the OG painter 😎
@@thetriggerman954 Thanks I try to keep a low key . Just keep up the great work, I subscribed to your channel.
Ive been painting and airbrushing custom graphics for awhile, not as long as you but I agree. This dude is actually one of the better painters on yourube who do things right, and is consistent with what he does rather than constantly changing
@@HPAcustomriflesandcerakote thank you man. I appreciate that. Honestly I think it's because a lot of the BIG channels on RUclips are from guys that are actually still in the beginning stages of learning the trade and they are still influenced by other platforms such as TikTok Instagram and whatnot. So for me have been spraying for almost 30 years now and going through all of the proper education it's like I know what I know and there's not a new fancy trick on TikTok that could cause me to sway from what I actually know. Of course there are tips and tricks we can learn from others but once you have a foundation of how these things really work That's pretty much set in stone. Thank you again for chiming in 👊🏼
Exactly 😂 2k it's crosslinked even if you sand it everything below that is still closed. It's mechanically connected via scratches at that point. Do ya thang Trigger. ✊🏾
Thank you man 🫡💪🏼
Preach! Rules are made to be broken. If we didn't break rules there wouldn't be custom painters!
Facts 🙌🏼
Your absolutely right about the sealer. I work on aircraft/parts and for 8 years we always used sealer. It wasnt until i went to the next place that i stopped sealing everything. No problems at all.
@@Whitening98 and had you not gone to the second place you would still be under the impression that you " have to seal everything " now you have that "experience" and you know it's not a must, but it does work. I just wish there were more real painters that have been in the trade for more than 20 years to help spread the real knowledge of this trade. These people watching videos only respect " subscriber " count and they really thing high subscriber means knowledge and real painters see right through the gimmicks. If I do some of the real tricks I know these people would go crazy. So I have to wait until my channel gets bigger before I start doing that stuff. Thank you for watching bro 💪🏼
Now you got it 🙌 ..I did mention on a video ago ..that you Don't need to always apply sealer ..Clean 2k primer, clean prep...=.Clean Finish, Outstanding video 🙌✌🏽
Thank you Anthony all facts there 🙌🏼🫵🏼🫡
Keep in mind we are talking about standard day to day Collision work. Not restoration cars being primed for a year. Primer sanded, or non sanded, even sealer sitting out in the weather is porous.
Trigger, you’re 100% right. I do it all the time. Keeps the blend panels to a minimum. Keeps the cost down for you and the customer.
Exactly 💯 🫡🫵🏼🫵🏼
Calm down Trgger ... you know everyone on here is an "expert" ... you the man ... don't forget to wear your gloves ... 🤨
Don't forget not to drink all them beers 🤨 just did a 7 mile run this morning. I'm detoxed. Now your turn 🫵🏼🫵🏼🫵🏼
Trigger he know what he doing, people calm down, he got used.
Be Safe God bless Everyone @ Trigger
@@toru_rose6564 🙏🏼♥️
Spot on on the sealer.... The benefit of sealer is that you can spray it on and recoat over it without sanding. Not a requirement when it is still fairly fresh....There is a window of time to do this just like epoxy primer. Sealer is great for cut throughs. and not required if there is perfectly sanded 2k primer. and if you sand the sealer it is absolutely the same as if you have sanded 2k primer. Sealer is a great tool and can be used or not used depending on what you are doing.
Facts. Basically just letting the guys know they have options. Most of the guys that watch these videos are doing this stuff at home. A lot of things I do on the channel I do completely opposite at times sometimes I paint panel by panel sometimes I walk the entire side of the car, sometimes I use sealer sometimes I don't , sometimes I use a wet bed and sometimes I don't, and it's basically just to show that there so are many ways to get the same outcome and there is not one way to do any of this. Thanks for chiming in Mike. 💪🏼♥️
After painting yachts for 45 years, I can tell you that painting cars is much more involved. For the boats we use two-part epoxy primers sanded to 400. With AwlGrip or Alexseal Topcoats (two part polyurethanes) we spray one tack coat and then two wet coats. That's it. They last 10 years.
That Awlgrip is some beast stuff man . I painted a few boats in my booth and ruined my walls and lights. Black 😭😭😭😭😭
Not the awlgrip I spray on boats. A lot more work.
Currently in the same line of work super yachts, Australia. Nice to see another comment mention yachts on here 🙂🤙🏾
Been painting aircrafts for 14+ years. We've used that Awlgrip and I've never liked it 😂
@@Whitening98 what don’t you like? I used their base clear. The se line for base and the 3000 clear.
On the regular I try to avoid sealing over primer if not necessary…mind you I got a bad ass prepper …raw bumpers are always a must but the rest can be your preference, depending on the color and coverage also or the shops rules also .
There you have it 💯 see man i need all of the real painters in the field like you to chime in. Enough of this sesame Street RUclips bullshit. And yes raw bumpers and new parts are a must. 💪🏼🫡🫵🏼🫵🏼
@@thetriggerman954 trigga you one of the realest when it comes to getting to the point and NO BS advice ……you always addressing the issues that really matter !!!
Where I work, they do prefer us to seal most things. But not everything, like smaller repairs. You’re doing what works for you and that’s awesome and all that matters. It works. Keep grinding man, I appreciate the insight from your experience.
Thanks man. Yes I've worked in those shops where they want you to seal everything. So I get it thank you for watching and chiming in 🫡
Thanks for nice video. In my case we paint tons of white vans. Paint is white and new parts come black. We simply seal it all to cut the cost of the white paint. Gallon of white sealer is $85. Once sealed it needs just 1 -1/2 coat of white paint to cover it. Agree that is not necessary to cover 2k primed spots, often it created sand pilling that needs to be sanded before spraying the base. Extra spraying, extra cleaning, extra overspray , dust etc.
Yeah man new parts should definitely seal regardless. Plus like you save money on materials. Now that is understandable. And you're right about the sand piling from sealer just extra work
to me sealer is mainly for new panels. definitely don’t seal over primed body work unless i have to because of burn through
@@bdubwiley exactly 💯💪🏼 say it loud for the folks in the back row
Great point the flow of entire car is easier to base when you seal entire car
Yes much easier to seal the whole car If there are spots all over it on a full paint job
@@thetriggerman954 exactly
Great work as always with excellent content!!!
Also Trig can you please tell me what DeKups adapter you use on the Porphis 717? My research tells me it’s a 81 but would like to verify if possible before I order one! Thanks
@@poman8772 for Dekups it's #10 adapter
Trigger, keep that great information coming! Beautiful results on that vehicle. God bless
Thank you Brad. You betcha 💪🏼💪🏼🤝
Outstanding job and excellent professional advice.
@@Tmac8488 thank you Tmac 💪🏼
The biggest reason that I can think of for the sealer is when you live in an area that has lots of gravel and dirt roads. When the pain is finished then you can put a sealer on the whole car. I live in Eastern Oregon (when I live in America) and there are many if not the major amounts of roads are either gravel or pumice dirt. That is the only reason I can see for using a sealer before the finish and the final seal coat. I would also be interested in what you have to say about the issue I would be up against.
You can seal for that reason. It's not a bad idea. Gravel rocks can be a problem 🤷🏼♂️
Hello triggerman you are an awesome painter idgaf whatever anyone gat to say you are blessing to this platform period! Please if don’t mind put the links to get the mini gun and nozzle down below
@@peterimafidon1287 thank you Peter ❤️🫡 this link should take you right to the gun. And you can select the tip size I recommend 1.0
I would like to learn more about that open blend spot you did on the rear, how to prep for one, do you need to polish afterwards or just leave it, do you “melt” it in, etc? As well is there any tips or tricks when choosing the right variant/color chip for color match?
Here is a very detailed video I did on that process. I think you would find this helpful.
ruclips.net/video/62oRjIbX_9A/видео.htmlsi=7r3JEd_Hn3KmjRBz
Stunning work Stunning.
Thank you Trigger you answer my question amongst many questions.
Glad to help
Thank you TriggerMan you are an educator, much appreciated
Thank you sir 💪🏼
Triggerman you are absolutely right . I agree with you. Today I just applied base over 2k primer. No sealer was used over the 2k primer. No issues whatsoever. The base laid on fine, then I cleared over the base. Covered very well. . I do agree with you about using sealer over burn throughs. If there are any burn throughs definetly should be sealed. You mentioned in the video that adding reducer to the 2k primer will turn it into a sealer. What percentage reducer should be used for the 2k to act as a sealer? Thanks.
@@georgepetrillo7316 remember that's on certain products. And it will specify in the data sheet for that product. Majority of the ones that can be turned into a sealer are usually 25% reduction with reducer. But I tend to go a little more than 25% because I like to have very minimal orange peel in my finished product. In my opinion I feel it's okay to over reduce sealer to get the finish you're looking for simply because you're just looking for a barrier I'm not putting down sealer to cover scratches and pinholes and other imperfections from poor prep work. But definitely check your data sheet on the materials
@@thetriggerman954 Thanks. I was using Omni 2k. Was just looking at the spec sheet , but nothing that states it can be used a sealer. It's Omni 282. ratio of 4:1 as a filler primer . 4:1:1 is the ratio when adding reducer. The 4:1:1 with the reducer could give this primer sealing qualities. Thanks for your input.
@@georgepetrillo7316 any time 🫡
Seal or no seal this man can paint! that thing looks flawless right out of the booth wow 😮😮 Even for not removing handles or mirror that thing looks great. Nice job trigger. The shop I work at we have sealer but the owner leaves it to our discretion, there are three painters there and most of the time none of us seal unless there's a problem beforehand.
@@Howiesgarage thank you sir 🫡 and yes that's how it is. If you want to use it use it if you don't, don't use it like you said use your own discretion if the panel is iffy then use it if it's good clean 2K substrate hey it's already sealed in my book. Thanks for chiming in brother 💪🏼
..That is a lovely colour and a very nice finish..!!
@@Martyngreen-qm4lg thank you Marty 💪🏼🫡
That Sagola is not Cheap! Thanks for another great video.
Thanks for watching! ♥️💪🏼
Always prepped 2k primer and paint over top, never had any issues. Use sealer on new parts thats all.
Exactly 💯 real world painters vs RUclips painters 🫡
I always use a sealer over my primer after I block sand. It gives me a lot better finish. Rather than sanding and putting base down then. Yea you can put base down over it if sanded to 800grit and it will be good. I just do not like to spray 2k high build with my 1.8mm then put base coat over once it flashes since its such a ruff finish. So i block it up to 400grit and put sealer down with a 1.3mm then go right into base coat once it flashes. A chemical bond is always better than a mechanical bond in my opinion
Great results as always ….i like the base going on wet and coverage off the bat 👍🏻💪🏻😎
Good explanation even being a newbie I understand. On another note the cure time for primer before sanding?
@@GeorgiaGonzales-f6u each product is different anytime you buy materials always get a technical data sheet on the product and follow the directions. They will say something like 5 to 6 hours, 24 hours or you can force dry it in the Sun or you can put it through a bake cycle so it all depends. I typically like to wait 24 hours with the vehicle sitting in the sun. I'll go sometimes we'll use a heat lamp and force to dry for about an hour.
It's good stuff to stop rust if your doing a fabrication job in your spare time in your driveway like me. Benefits of being given a old truck, I'm lucky everything underneath was in good shape, and it was driven until the day I got it not sitting.
It's good stuff to prevent bird shit from staining too 🙄🤦🏼♂️ I give up.
Keep teaching Trigger 🫵🏾👍🏿💯
@@SmokeyA55 4 show
Great work TriggerMan wen an if necessary yes sealer is. A must in certain paint jobs wre th unknown layers are there (restoration jobs)… what’s ur thoughts in tinting th sealer for an overall restoration job?…
@@richarcruz7843 I think that's a great idea. Tint the sealer for and over would help get you faster coverage. Makes perfect sense 🫡💪🏼
Your right about the primer, here in the UK it’s quite common practice to base over properly sanded high build primer with no sealer, it is true that high build primer is somewhat porous especially if you wet sand it but not just by dry sanding it
Yes it's porous for like being left outside in the weather but not for doing a regular paint job like we're doing day in day out. Furthermore 2K primer and 2k sealer are both porous if left out in the weather.
Trigger man how to choose 1.2 or 1.3 for base and cleat
Trigg...how are you man?I never seal any paint job except new plastic bumpers....if i have some burn corners i put some etch primer with a mini gun....For me the most important is the preparation and correct 2k hue off the primer(dark or light grey) for better color cover....Yes sealer is good but for me produces extra orange peal....
Sealer produces orange peel for EVERYONE 🤠 I seal new bumpers and new parts. That's it.
Doing it for years- yep, your right.
@@CentralIowaAudits right on my man. Guys in the battlefield know it works 💪🏼
you made some very good points about this made alot of sense to me
Good to hear. Pretty simple stuff when you think about it
Great video as always buddy.I’ve been doing this since 16 years old and now 52 and I only seal the odd job.if you do as you say prep well and use your 2k primer correct why would you need to seal and do another step ? Your totally right it’s not always needed.Yes I do on new panels etc but not on most normal repairs:) this one came out pukka mate looks the dogs danglys 😜😜
LmAo thanks man 🤣 Pukka That's the second time I've heard that phrase under this video. I think I'm going to have to look that up lol
Lol in British slang it means like cool or excellent type of thing 👍 or a distinguished gentleman 😜 great advice buddy for all the home painters and pros alike 👍👍
I started sealing all my rust repairs and old classics with epoxy sealer after polyester primer. I use reduced epoxy over the entire body(full paint job) Then i actually wet sand the body by hand after it dries with 600 or 800 to insure the smoothest surface. In Michigan, have had my best luck with this process. But again, i'm doing oldies or rust jobs. So that is what works for me.
If it works that's all that matters. I started out doing rusto work. Blocking and priming on a rotisserie. So I get it. Some cars we sealed some we didn't. It's whatever works. Thanks Big Bear 💪🏼
@@thetriggerman954 yeah, polyester and epoxy is all I have here now. I did 3 years of trials seeing what worked for me on these rust buckets. Can add acetone to the polyester if I want less build. With my low pressure turbine I use surprisingly little epoxy to cover a panel and give myself a little peace of mind and a nice paint ready repair that is sealing the poly, filler, fiberglass, concrete, expanding foam🤣😁🤣😁🤣 you know, whatever it took to fix dat rust!!😝
@@BearBudgetgarage Expanding foam and concrete man you fixing sidewalks or cars 🤣🤣🤣
@@thetriggerman954 🙃😝🙃😝
In Triggerman we trust☝️👌👍
Like for real enough is enough already 🫡👊🏼
Well said !
The most real and best painter on RUclips in my opinion. The work speaks for it. Even in the old spray booth them paint jobs come out amazing. I can tell he been doing the thing for awhile.
Old school no BS painter👍
A semi truck doin 100k miles in a year. Durability wise, would a color tinted sealer over tinted primer (black) and 4 or 5 coats of clear help hide the inevitable chips? Thanks.
Maybe spray a coat of chip guard underneath. That'll really prevent some rock chips. I did that on my Colorado a few years back making nice soft edge line put the chip guard and spray over it adds a noticeable texture that will save you hell of headaches
Got to love the at home pros telling a guy thats been doing it for 25+ years how to paint lol.Ive been in this game since 2003 and i have done it the exact way you done it in this vehicle with 0 issues.Ive been at this shop the entire time and not 1 comeback,do your thing trigger!!!
I know most of you real painters out there know this stuff. I just don't like seeing these guys trying to learn being misinformed and only thinking that there is one way.
@@thetriggerman954 They are in good hands being taught by a painter as good as you Trigger!
U the best keep trigger man my man
For pinholes you can use Evercoat 444 express so you dont have to finger paint them with primer or sealer.....
I think the commenter is possibly confusing 2k body filler with 2k primer.
The first time I helped prep a car, I sanded a nickel size area of filler and forgot to prime over it.
The painter was pretty mad when the exposed body filler sucked up the base.
I learned my lesson 😂
No he meant 2k primer. I get those comments weekly. That's why I finally addressed it. And yep exposed body filler will screw you every time
Trigger what’s a good mid tear clear to use ? I’ve been using Acme FC 720 sow hardener it’s like impossible to cut trash and sags out of it’s been two months and seem like it’s soft !
@@timhudson8958 I hear many bad comments about that clear. Try the stuff I use. It's only $200 and it works good
Clear coat AmTech 👇🏼
amzn.to/46jtjDl
I usually see sealer as another chance to get trash in the paint that i will have to sand back out. If you're not in a great booth, its really not ideal especially for the other reasons you mentioned
💯🎯
I only use sealer (reduced primer) on burn-throughs or to create a barrier where layers are exposed that can create fry-ups. Other than that, sanded clear is a good sealer itself. I also prefer to spray primer as a surfacer... goes down smoother, so less sanding is needed. I use the same DTM primer for all 3.
BossHawg you mean to tell me you don't seal all of that porous primer?? 😲😲😲 You're a dangerous man 🤣
@thetriggerman954 🤣🤣🤣
Kicking knowledge as usual
Better to kick knowledge than to kick ass
~The Triggeraman~
Well just to be clear. As a backyard DIY'er that uses 2k primer, sands it, and does not use sealer for spot repairs like this. I have seen it suck up some paint i think. Now to be fair, that could of just been me on some shitty coverage... So that all said, I like to now put 2 coats of base over my primer spots, and check them good before I paint the whole panel. I have not seen any sucking up, bleed whatever in the months/years since, I started doing that.. So again, it was probably me, that left a light spot, and it showed through which made it look like it was absorbed into the primer.
Yes that's it Arron, that's what happens also guys put the base on and the primer is not fully cured. So they thing it sucked in because it wasn't sealed. You're absolutely correct 💯
Some primer yes, but not all primers are the same, if its polyester primer like Optex Super build, Evercoat slicksand or Featherfill, ot Eastwood contour, etc yesbit needs to be sealed because that is polyester and polyester is very much so porous but urethane, laquer, and epoxy primer are not and do not need sealing unless the prep was bad and left a bunch of bad sanding scratches
That's why I said in the video " if you are sealing for bad prep work" the you need to work on your craft. That shouldn't be a reason to seal. And it can be avoided by sharpening your kills
That blue is so nice. Have a dept of it. Latest Mazda colors are super deep.
Can you make one cup test with something with the FLG-5 or the R500?
❤
Yeah man Mazda been coming with the heat lately. And you're saying the 2 guns 1 cup?
@@thetriggerman954 Yes yes 2G-1C 🔥
I'll like very much to see a complete how to show car finish with all the grits sand paper interface pads thank you so much ❤️ trigger man
@@AlimAbrahim ok I got you. I'll have to wait until my prepper goes on vacation so I can prep some cars for you guy's. But I'll try to get something going 😉
Side note: I never EVER buy sealer. 100% of the time I will reduce my primer for a seal coat.
Trigger man you're a professional and you can't get it better than this you're the best don't bother with those guys stay cool brother
🙌🏼🙏🏼
Nice job on the blends! The Mazda, the shirt and the bucket cap. 🤪 Now just a little touch up on the 10K subscriber's lid.
Trying my man 😜
Excellent point. The primer I use can be reduced and made into a sealer. Less is more.
In Australia they call sealer, wet on wet.
Exactly 💯
I need some help please TriggerMan, I just painted the front of my van, 2 coats of primer 2 coats of base and 2 coats of clear, I dont like it so my question is how long till i can sand it down and re paint and how far down do I need to sand, thanks TriggerM an
What about fiberglass Trig? Should you seal complete panel? Also should you primer then seal or seal then primer? Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Primer than seal. And only seal fiberglass if it's needed. Same thing applies. If you have a good solid 2k primer there isn't really a need. The boat guys 2 only 2k primer and paint.
@@thetriggerman954 Thanks Trigger! As a RUclipsr you have to be the whipping boy for all the internet know it all's😊😊
Great video. keep them coming.
@@byroncummings2952 thank you Byron. Most definitely my man 💪🏼🫡
Thanks for the advice, and thanks for all your teachings! 🙌🏾 that thing came out nice & clean!!!! If you don't mind me asking, what brand clearcoat & basecoat do you use? And what advice would you give on the best places to buy materials (paint, clear, intercoat)?
Thanks brother. You're more than welcome. We use ProSpray paint line. Here is a link for the clear and base coat blender that I use. Clear coat AmTech
amzn.to/46jtjDl
Base blender/wet bed
www.amazon.com/s?k=TRANSTAR+%28LV-500%29&crid=2XLBFHRX2H71T&sprefix=transtar+lv-500+%2Caps%2C117&tag=thetriggerman-20
And as far as the paint I'm not really sure we purchase our base frona few near by paint suppliers. I hear there are tons of places online though. You might have to do some research. That's something I may try to figure out in the near future cuz a lot of guys ask me so maybe I'll try to hook up with some online paint company try their products and see if I can get some things going for you guys.
@thetriggerman954 Thanks a lot! That would be really helpful. I've looked at a few online places, they just seem to put such a hefty markup on the items, but I'll definitely keep searching. Thanks again!
@@Tonytalks1980 more than welcome. But that Clear coat works great. As you can see. At least you can get that on Amazon
@@thetriggerman954 Thank you!! 🙏🏾
Sealer is not always needed i use it just incase i left a lil scratch from sandind on metallics but most of the time i dont use it
Yep, if a person can't really prepp that good it helps them. It's not a must have
You da man TRIGGERMAN
@@mattsecuro2968 just trying to do my part brother. Thank you Matt 💪🏼
This is Science lab 101, thanks Trigga!
You got it man. Thank you for watching 💪🏼🫵🏼
Any economical spray gun that can spray good for beginners?
Thanks Triggerman
Right now this is hands down the best gun for the price and works with a small compressor.👇🏼
amzn.to/4grypDh
Great stuff trigger!
Do you have a mixing room? How do you plan the day with the paint if it needs to be ordered or for color matching
We have a mixing room on site.
Trigger. Could you do a video on a diy booth type of set up. I have a motorhome garage attached to my shop. I wanna multi purpose the motorhome area and turn it into a nice diy booth. I have 2 20” axial fans that can do a full air change in 1-1/2 minutes. I’m wondering is filter heights make a difference. Low vs high. Also lighting. Best I can tell you have one bank of lights about 5 feet off ground. Would more light be better. What would you do differently on your booth. Lighting airflow etc. I’m a diy painter. Bikes. Cars. Trailers and recently planes. I’m 60. Painted first bike at 26. I just wanna get better. I have good air supply. Clean n dry. That was a problem in the past.
Appreciate You!
Sure man I'll try to go give my 2 cents. As far as filters height I would say somewhat in the middle would be good not to high and not to low most shops I've seen they are always in the middle of start from the bottom and go towards the middle. And the more lights the better. You can never have to much light. And probably and set lower than the 5 feet to catch things down below. Then a few up top as well. 1-2 min air change is pretty good that about how my booth flows more like 2.5 minutes
Thank You.
off the sealent subject .sorry , i gotta know Do you find in winter the primer not wanting to dry ,say @68 degrees . can one add thinner or just wait it out . using fast thinner now
In the winter nothing wants to dry. Not just primer lol. Get you a good heat lamp. Just don't put it to close or you'll be in tears 😭
Three paint reps (Axalta, Sherwin Williams, Valspar) all told me 2k primer seals on is own. You should use sealer over raw parts. On some overalls you should seal to have a uniform substrate and avoid a car that looks like a leopard. And you should use sealer if you're spraying bodywork done over a single stage finish. Keeps the solvents from lifting the old finish along the edge of the repair. This is what works for me
2k primer seals on it's own. " Case closed" next time you see those reps buy them lunch it's on me and tell me what I owe you 😂
And definitely sealer over raw plastic bumpers and new parts.
I like sealer because it (1.) helps with color coverage, (2.) incase there are any scratches paint would still show through, and (3.) it seems to also help almost like a wet-bed when used correctly. But at the edges of the sealer such as a repair spot you have to either sand smooth, use a blender, or a clear base up to the sealer to overcome the texture. I guess what I wonder about @The TriggerMan in your experience can you pile on the coats if you see scratches peeking through? I agree it's not always easy adding a step that opens you up to additional dirt/contaminants :/
@@kseries20-24only my vehicles are prepped correct there is never any scratches. I said that at the end of the video " if you're sealing because of scratches or pinholes the you need to work on your craft " people can "like" to use it for whatever reason but that doesn't mean it's "needed" I would rather take a few extra minutes prepping to ensure there are no scratches than to waste time and create more work by sealing. And saying it helps like a wet bed I don't even know what that means. And no piling on base coat because you see sand scratches would just be asking for trouble, it will most likely shrink and show scratches once everything cures.
Bro question..... your finishes off the gun are the best I've ever seen. Do you do any cutting after?
@@christophervian1784 thanks man if I have more than 2 pieces of dirt in a panel I will denib the few pieces and use a mini polisher. That's about it. The phrase " off the gun" has been used very loosely now days I notice 😅😅
@@thetriggerman954 thanks so much for your reply brother. Respect 🙏
@@christophervian1784 yes sir. Anytime 💪🏼🤘🏼
All the non painters seems to have all the right answers😂 there's never a text book right or wrong answer, mainly recommendations🤷🏽♂️ keep doing you my man, love the content and the sarcasm/sense of humour😂🤙🏾
Right on my man. The latest trend tho is every commenter says " I've been doing this for 20 years" I'm getting a ton of that now. It's all funny
Trigger man in the dungeon slaying the paint job
Bro I can’t comment I know nothing of painting vehicles
I watch the channel for info
Enjoy how quick and easy you make it look to paint
Keep up the good work and don’t listen to nobody’s negative opinions
Keep on going
Paint job came out 🔥🔥🔥🔥
I appreciate that! And it's not that the comments bother me. I just don't want them to misinform You guys the viewers. I know what I'm doing and they're ain't a person on RUclips that could tell me any different I just want to make sure that my viewers and subscribers know the difference between bullshit and real shit.
I’ve never seen a bad paint job in your channel
But well said bro
I’m watching your videos my grandson 2011 Civic roof is pealing so watching you paint .I might try out painting his roof
🙏🙏🙏🙏
@@reynaldorivera743 a civic roof is pretty small. You got this 💪🏼🫵🏼🫵🏼
I mainly only seal new parts. Don't see a benefit to sealing primer. My primer just gets a different mix ratio to be a sealer.
Been doing this since 96. Got my collision repair license in 2000. Been at my current job 18 years.
I do see some youtubers seal everything. With the paint I use, It will not cover like yours, right shade of primer is important. I just use a primer that can be mixed in any gray shade. I do turn the booth lights off and check my coverage.
Yeah man new parts are a must. At times I will tint the primer for that very reason. And I agree with you 100% my thing is the reason they are saying to seal, the whole porous reason. Now that is not even a real thing and doesn't warrant for using sealer.
Hey...Could I call u as spray Master?😊 I have seen u do a lot of different method and the outcome result is the same and perfect
I try to show you guys there is no one way to do this. So that you can find a style that works for you. Thank you 😊
I see you using the bodyline for the blend, I’m learning everyday trigg
Yes sir, no need to go above that. Oh wait It might be porous 🤣
@@thetriggerman954 😂😂😂
Trigger man you're the expert here don't let the little under the tree painters make you angry
They don't that's just the passion coming out of my pores 🤠
So it's ok to use sealer on a whole vehicle?
@@jesussandoval7510 yes sir, especially if you have a bunch of primer spots all over the place. I'd highly recommend to seal the whole vehicle
Only reason I like sealer is to save me from sanding to 600/800 on metallics, seal same day as base/clear. Sealer I have right now though isnt for bare metal/burn throughs so I use spectral 395 in a can or 385-00 2k epoxy in the gun on the burns etc and shoot the sealer over the 320/360 scratch, nice warm feeling knowing adhesion is good. The highbuild I use is a zinc oxide epoxy that sands lovely, 305-00 by spectral again so double insurance.
Sounds like you got a good formula that's working for you. That's how it's done 💪🏼
@@thetriggerman954 Its just the clear I'm still trying to figure out, going to try the multi mix 2 or mipa cx4. Extremely little experience but everyday is a learning day. 🙏
@@Ry8ean Even with almost three decades of experience I'm still learning as well brother. Everyday we get better 👊🏼
Thanks you made me laugh.
Good to hear. Thank you for watching
I’m only here for the hilarious voiceover today. Always makes me laugh 😆
Beautiful job buddy
Thanks man as long as you enjoyed 🤝🙌🏼
Hey Triggerman...nice work...btw what air respirator do you use?
Thanks man this is the one I use If you get it just make sure to get 3M cartridges 👇🏼
amzn.to/4goH1KW
@@thetriggerman954 thanks for reply...but the link you sent me is for spot blender.
@@tomhorn3135 this should be it amzn.to/4d6aA0X
Thanks for your help! They are on the way!
@@tomhorn3135 more than welcome. Let me know how they work out for you..
What’s your thoughts on pulling in the booth, noticed you missed a burn through and using a 1k primer to touch up?
That's fine if it's just little spot. And the 1k has completely cover the burn through. Just be cautious on the first 1-2 coats of base on that area because it could react if you put your ass really wet. Other than that you'd be good.
@@thetriggerman954 awesome!! Thank you man
That's the problem with social media too many keyboard know alls, good informative video keep up the good content
Thank you Andrew 💪🏼
Bro what blender did you use. And do you buff there after it cures?
There should be a link for it in the description it's transtar LV500
amzn.to/4exKBBc
And I only buff if there are more than 2 pieces of dirt per panel
Omg 2 videos in one weekend wtf oh Trigga working working 😮
😂😂 I got shit sitting ready for weeks out 🤷🏼♂️ you don't grind you don't eat . And I'm hungry 😋
@@thetriggerman954 Damn true 😁
@@thetriggerman954 wow this shit is motivating af I’m about to do overtime all week!
@@EJ1James let's get it James 💪🏼😎
Thanks for sharing now I know I'm not the only one thinking about this bs.
Lol
They had you doing too aye? Lol 😂
I don’t plan to spray boats forever but I still try my best on every job even though it wouldn’t come back to me I want that recommendation
whats that in the lil can you sprayed on the back bumper after you finished
www.amazon.com/dp/B00G4Z0M26/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_apa_gl_i_DA15VMC772PP85X6PQ76?linkCode=ml2&tag=thetriggerman-20
I have 1 problem Master. After I spray 2k clear coat then the base coat get wrinkle! Why?
Because that's backwards. Base goes down first. Then clear coat
Started painting a year ago throw right in the fire at my nephews shop when painter left, l painted alot of cars and have never sprayed sealer yet,, only one had to be cut and buffed rest right from booth too customer,, l agree Trigg sealer just dosent make sense
That's right. It has it's place. For plastic bumpers and new parts. Guys like you that are in the battlefield have the experience and you know.
@@thetriggerman954 l saw the previous painter spray grey sealer just before red paint and in a few minutes it looked almost pink from the sealer and paint mixing changing the shade,, l saw that coming
Now you put sealer on burn thru but most sealers say not to put on bare metal spots so what is the best way to do it
Most of my burn throws that are down to metal My prepper uses an SEM etch can primer prior to giving me the car ready. And even if it's a tiny spot of metal it's fine to seal it. Just not big areas.
Trigger what’s a good mid range clear to use ?
I think the stuff I use is a good mid-range clear coat. It's $200 and as you see in this video it looks fine
Clear coat AmTech
amzn.to/46jtjDl
To seal or not to seal, that is the question.
@@Smurf4460 😁
Trigger is right. I'd love to add to all the different ways, but this isn't my channel, and there's so much to write. I've seen a guy finish his filler and putty work in 400, and double seal it with no primer, lol. Now I absolutely don't recommend that process but hey it worked for him till he got fired😂
Well got damn 😲 now that's a new one 😂 he sounds like a real paint rebel 🤘🏼
Show them the poducts after they have hardened and how much sealer, primer, basecoat,and clear shrinks!!!
Okay will do. I'm going to tell my boss to call the customer and tell them to come pick up the car in 3 weeks 😉🤝
@@thetriggerman954 meant the left over products.have to show my boss so they stop priming over 80
Tell them trigger,if you finish your 2k primer off in 600 or 800 your preference I mainly 600 everything and don't have bare metal showing you don't have to seal it you can if you want or like you said your in a shop where you half too that's a different story
Read your Psheets people know and understand your material
Love your channel triggerman keep doing your thing much love from Detroit
Thank you John. And normally my prepper finishes off primer with 600 but for whatever reason on certain jobs she likes to use 800 grit which is fine with me she has her own style and I respect that and it doesn't affect my finish in any way. There's so many different ways to do this stuff and get the same outcome.
Thanks again for timing in John. ♥️💪🏼
@@thetriggerman954 np brother