Awsome informative video! Thanks for all the good info on setup and install. One question, who makes the tidy little wire holder on the 3 motor wires in the end? Makes the insatll look very clean!
Amazing work, although we would really appreciate to see this buggy running. Any chance? It's a bit unfair we watched how it was assembled but we didn't see it running, it leaves an unpleasant whole in the watching experience.
You prolly dont give a shit but does any of you know of a tool to get back into an instagram account..? I somehow lost the account password. I appreciate any help you can offer me
@Mohammed Wilder i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and im trying it out atm. Seems to take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
I get the engineering behind that style of motor mount, but I’ve never liked them. Makes it a pain to set gear mesh, especially when things get dirty underneath.
I can see it being more difficult if there's a lot of dirt build up, but I much prefer the way this holds the motor as opposed to hanging it by the front end on a plate.
@@TyTekinCampbell kyosho had a piece that sat under the motor. the real fix is a thicker mount with one of these aswell, means it has no flex effect and no hanging motor... seperating it like nitro is bad for life of mesh and different loads on the motor shaft. old way with better/bigger mount is the best option.
Ok they look fairly shiny feel very solid. But you got me thinking of redoing. Is 80° alot of timing of timing between the motor & esc together. I was told 90° is your max. Typically I run my 1:8 scale castle powered vehicles @ 0° cause it's all that's needed. But my tlr22 needs more top end with its 17.5. So 80° timing with 31pinion 69 spur 90c is that the reason my esc lasted 2 months in cool summer cond. Or does that sound more like poor soldering. My Orion ultimate stock soldered so perfectly very first time very shiny beads. But fought with the esc. Now I'm worried about the gold plating melted off my esc pads making the job that much harder and will my bernzomatic 60/40 rosin core leaded solder do the trick even on rough surfaces. I noticed the second time around soldering my Orion motor was a bitch. I do have a brand new unopened exact motor if needed but would hate to use due to no solder cleaning tools no solder sucker not even roll of that copper mesh stuff. I'm worried about ripple current due to the unnecessary resistance. I can check my castle gear but my skyrc I still need the computer adapter. I do have the wireless programming app and device for the skyrc ts120 and let me say it's been $flawless on all 3 devices I've tried them on. Thanks for any advice at this point. Thank you!
@@TekinRacing ok but will that fry out my esc faster than cold solder joint. Also honestly I tested speeds with Garmin's forerunner 101 by 5° and found that to be my best "lap time" and top speed of 45.5 mph...I stopped at 80° and did not go any higher due to the small mah packs despite the 90c rating...either way I couldn't see pushing more than 80°. Thanks brother!!
@@detroitrcwurks998 Heat is a killer. so watch the temps. Timing won't hurt the ESC necessarily, it's the excess heat generated by pushing the system too hard that will damage components. Since none of it is our gear, I can't really say for sure what the limit is.
Why do you set up your esc's to need to change low voltage cut off between different cell batteries? Isn't it simpler to have low voltage cut off set to individual cell voltage?
You can do both. You set it for 4S and then you can adjust the individual cell voltage you'd like it to cutoff at. Our ESCs don't auto-detect pack voltage and adjust the cutoff because there are cross-overs that could cause battery damage from over discharging.
I haven't hit the track yet with this exact car, but I used to get 15-17 minutes of run time with a 4S 5600mAh pack with this same ESC and motor combo on a semi-large track.
I have been running my car with 4S lipo, but the ESC was set up at 6S lipo. I ran it like that about four times what will happen to the battery is it bad? The battery was very hot when I was done running didn't really know why haven't tried it yet on 4s.
Tekin Racing I updated the ESC last night. I disconnected like the computer said and then when I hook everything back up it said it was set to 6s. I wonder if updating it set it to 6S? I then set it back to 4s and will run it today. Are you saying that if it was set to 6s it wouldn't run on 4s?
@@nuclearcrypto7743 correct, if it were set for 6S then cutoff would be around 19V (depending on what the per cell value is in the box above that slider) and a charged 4S would be below that at about 16.8. This would trigger the cutoff and the ESC would not drive and show the 1-3-5 code. Are you hitting 'Apply' when making setting changes in the HotWire?
Tekin Racing yes I hit apply after adjusting the esc back to 4s, I then plugged battery in and it ran. I just didn’t have time to run the car yet it was too late at night
No flux? At all? No good ol no.95 or the H-20 all by Oatey. Is this why I'm having a fkn hell of a time getting my solder to stick. Also I'm using a Xtronic #3020 which gives me temperature..is their a round about temp to solder these fat solder tabs...they do pull heat fast. Why I prefer sensored Mamba Monster X 1:8 kit...no soldering. I can weld but have hard time soldering the esc and motor pads only..go fig... will cold solder joint ruin a esc over time or wouldn't cold solder joint be weak and break off easy. Cause I give e all wire good tug side to side and pull upwards pretty good. I ask cause my tlr22 3.0 SR burned up the esc over less than 3 months time BUT I was running a solid 80° timing. That particular build I wasn't working so had to go little cheaper on parts...aluminum version skyrc ts120 which has pretty great power consistancy all way thru the pack..Orion Ultimate stock 17.5..savox 1258tg..2 nanotech ultimate 90c lipos..wifi wireless module for android app tuning which hasn't given me not 1 issue all summer and I have to say theirs plenty lines of code with those tunning options especially for the $nickel. Do run DX PRO with telemetry on the 1:8 truggy with castles & spektrums telem link cable which I'm not completely 100% sure on yet far as accuracy thru the esc link cable..all other spot on. Castle did send me a new link cable to compare numbers between both and to send back just what I found. Just hard find'n time.
As for a cold solder joint damaging an ESC, it absolutely can. If it's a bad enough joint the resistance can be very high, causing high heat which only compounds the resistance issue and you get a situation that makes itself worse quickly. If a wire pops off and touches another, most of the time it will blow up a motor drive phase if it happens under power. My advice is to just practice and don't use too much solder. Also make sure you're not using silver solder, that takes higher heat and doesn't flow as easily.
@@TekinRacing sounds about rite. I been an auto tech for 23 years with ot much soldering experience except for few wires here and there. Usually use the solderless connectors with the shrink wrap ends. Ok so for a cold joint if its damaging my esc what signs would the esc show...cause I'm experiencing none far as hot to mild warm motor wires a.b.or c my power leads are cool to the touch. I can run this buggy in 90° heat for 20 to 25 minutes non stop and every wire esc all be cool to the touch amazingly...my motor just barely gets warm to where I have to leave my finger on the can for about 3 seconds just to feel some slight warmth. All while running 50° timing. I really check my end of all my wires for heat an absolutely nothing. It's crazy since how warm it is outside I would think my system would produce some more heat. I only ask a out the cold joint only on my esc side I had the problem getting the solder to stick.. the motor and lipo leads soldered perfect 1st time but that damn esc pads took me literally 8 to 9 times to finally get to stick but their stuck very solid and I mean I gave them all very good tugs and bends back and forth and they are solid. Part problem was I was too quick with the heat....due to the number of times i was afraid of desoldering the pcb. And you say no fluke hey...I'm thinking that fluke was my problem. So have I covered the possible signs to look for on cold solder. I'm pretty sure I dont have any but want to be 100% sure. Thank you so much for reading this short novel...lol
@@detroitrcwurks998 generally hot wires, hot motor and hot ESC can be signs of a bad solder joint or a setup that is geared too tall or has too much timing. If everything is cool after running then you should be fine.
@@TekinRacing EXACTLY what solder & brand are you using. I'm not getting the solder to stick without flux. I'm using bernzomatic 60/40 rosin core lead.. thank you for help..
Tools ... mip hand tools.. some trash electrical tools.. you have to invest in solid tools.. so no skimping allowed. 20 to 40 bucks gets you life long tools. Especially when dealing with high amperage applications
I'd say you're losing your mind! 🤣 Buggies are all similar but the 8IGHT-X E is its own design. Look at them again, the 835E doesn't really look anything like the X.
@@TekinRacing you're definitely right especially on the front suspension....I still have my 835e and its actually been a really fun buggy and super fast I'm thinking of stepping up to the TLR now it looks awesome.....
Tlr should of put the esc in front of the car . Its the reason why I won't get one ever again you go through 10 esc a season having it in the back . Can't handle it
@@TekinRacing I've seen that before it doesn't always match up. Hey any idea of mods on the new Associated RC8B3.2e ? I'm getting one next week. Love the channel
@@RonHaupler Associated cars are pretty well setup up out of the box, I'm not sure that car really needs any substancial modifications! Honestly I like to set cars up close to kit specs and settings and get some time on them before making many big changes. Diff fluids and shock fluids are really the only thing I have a base setup to start with for the kinds of tracks I run on and then I tune from there. If I had to pick a must-upgrade on just about any 1/8 scale it would probably be the servo saver if it is plastic. Those can be a weak point and I've broken many of them!
@@TekinRacing Alright thanks. I did also order an aluminum servo saver so I should be all set with that. Just getting back into the sport now after 10 years off. I raced a lot as a kid. I'm currently building my new RC10B6.2 for indoor carpet and outdoor astro turf at RC Madness in CT. The 1/8th scale will be for a loose outdoor dirt track there. Thanks again ! I'll be looking forward to a RC8B3.2e review !!!
Honestly hadn’t considered tekin until this vid! I will now be buying this esc, motor and servo! Great video!
Awesome, thank you for watching! I've got another 1/8 build lined up for this spring and if you have any questions just ask!
Wow... simple. I have the RC8.3e I will be installing these electronics in. Thank you guys for putting this out.
We try to make it easy! Let us know if you need any help or if you have questions!
@@TekinRacing Thank you!
I have ben using more Tekin motors lately on my crawlers great power and torque availability of the product is the best part...
Yeah that's going to be awesome, appreciate you sure I watch for more
representing not the buggy its tekin products ✊👌👌
Awsome informative video! Thanks for all the good info on setup and install. One question, who makes the tidy little wire holder on the 3 motor wires in the end? Makes the insatll look very clean!
I forgot to mention the wire clip! I actually stole that out of an Axial SCX10 kit, fits 12awg wire pretty well!
Building my XE elite now...excellent video
Amazing work, although we would really appreciate to see this buggy running. Any chance? It's a bit unfair we watched how it was assembled but we didn't see it running, it leaves an unpleasant whole in the watching experience.
Thanks for the useful tips mate! Appreciated
When tinning wires I like to angle the wire downward a bit so solder doesn’t flow down the wire and take away the flexibility of it
You prolly dont give a shit but does any of you know of a tool to get back into an instagram account..?
I somehow lost the account password. I appreciate any help you can offer me
@Robert Jayceon instablaster =)
@Mohammed Wilder i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and im trying it out atm.
Seems to take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Mohammed Wilder It worked and I finally got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D
Thanks so much, you saved my account !
@Robert Jayceon you are welcome =)
Great video. Well done and super helpful. I'm looking to build the same kit, with same electronics. What kind of battery did you use for this setup?
Thanks! Went with a ProTek 5600 LiHV.
I get the engineering behind that style of motor mount, but I’ve never liked them. Makes it a pain to set gear mesh, especially when things get dirty underneath.
I can see it being more difficult if there's a lot of dirt build up, but I much prefer the way this holds the motor as opposed to hanging it by the front end on a plate.
@@TyTekinCampbell kyosho had a piece that sat under the motor. the real fix is a thicker mount with one of these aswell, means it has no flex effect and no hanging motor... seperating it like nitro is bad for life of mesh and different loads on the motor shaft. old way with better/bigger mount is the best option.
@@MrSupermugen so did Losi back in the 2.0 days, but clamp mounts hold the motor much more secure.
Have you finished the buggy as I'm about to buy one and would love to know what you think of it now you have had it a while.
Need more builds brah
Got plenty lined up!
Never had problem with wires coming off but how can you tell if it's a cold joint? Grey instead of shinny or?
Yep, if they are dull and look bumpy they could be cold. They will also pop off if you pull on them a bit if they are really bad.
Ok they look fairly shiny feel very solid. But you got me thinking of redoing. Is 80° alot of timing of timing between the motor & esc together. I was told 90° is your max. Typically I run my 1:8 scale castle powered vehicles @ 0° cause it's all that's needed. But my tlr22 needs more top end with its 17.5. So 80° timing with 31pinion 69 spur 90c is that the reason my esc lasted 2 months in cool summer cond. Or does that sound more like poor soldering. My Orion ultimate stock soldered so perfectly very first time very shiny beads. But fought with the esc. Now I'm worried about the gold plating melted off my esc pads making the job that much harder and will my bernzomatic 60/40 rosin core leaded solder do the trick even on rough surfaces. I noticed the second time around soldering my Orion motor was a bitch. I do have a brand new unopened exact motor if needed but would hate to use due to no solder cleaning tools no solder sucker not even roll of that copper mesh stuff. I'm worried about ripple current due to the unnecessary resistance. I can check my castle gear but my skyrc I still need the computer adapter. I do have the wireless programming app and device for the skyrc ts120 and let me say it's been $flawless on all 3 devices I've tried them on. Thanks for any advice at this point. Thank you!
That's too much timing. You'll end up with the ESC being so far advanced it will fire a motor phase while still on the current one.
@@TekinRacing ok but will that fry out my esc faster than cold solder joint. Also honestly I tested speeds with Garmin's forerunner 101 by 5° and found that to be my best "lap time" and top speed of 45.5 mph...I stopped at 80° and did not go any higher due to the small mah packs despite the 90c rating...either way I couldn't see pushing more than 80°. Thanks brother!!
@@detroitrcwurks998 Heat is a killer. so watch the temps. Timing won't hurt the ESC necessarily, it's the excess heat generated by pushing the system too hard that will damage components. Since none of it is our gear, I can't really say for sure what the limit is.
Why do you set up your esc's to need to change low voltage cut off between different cell batteries? Isn't it simpler to have low voltage cut off set to individual cell voltage?
You can do both. You set it for 4S and then you can adjust the individual cell voltage you'd like it to cutoff at. Our ESCs don't auto-detect pack voltage and adjust the cutoff because there are cross-overs that could cause battery damage from over discharging.
But I need that shop mat your doing all of this on🤔
Hey I got this buggy from a friend and the sper gear is on a rod and it is stuck to it. Do you have any idea why?
Whats the new servo replacement for the one you use in the video? It’s discontinued.
None of our servos are discontinued, we still have the full line.
@@TekinRacing horizonhobby shows it’s discontinued. I assume it’s an upgraded that replaced it. Is that true?
@@davidrivera390 nope, same servo. Not sure why Horizon discontinued it since we still make it. Stormer Hobbies has them in stock.
@@TekinRacing …on my to their website!
Too bad the motor mount isn't a heatsink.
what if you use thermal tape instead of O ring?
It would probably take a lot of tape for the mount to clamp the motor properly. The motor can itself cools pretty will with all the fins.
Where can I get the pit mat you are using!!???
This was done by a local to me that no longer makes them, sadly.
What happened to this build? Hoping to see the rest of the videos for it
I lost some footage unfortunately. I will be building a new 1/8 scale buggy in the next few weeks though!
What temperature you using on the Iron?
Usually 750-800F works best for me!
I'm looking into building a TLR 8ight X or XE. I know run times are hard to calculate but... What runs times have you got out of this setup?
I haven't hit the track yet with this exact car, but I used to get 15-17 minutes of run time with a 4S 5600mAh pack with this same ESC and motor combo on a semi-large track.
is it okay to use 4s lihv packs?
Yep! No problem there.
@@TekinRacing Noice! I get to tell my friend he is wrong muahaha
How is the durability of that losi car I'm thinking of picking up a kit but I can't decide which buggy to get
It's definitely a tough car! What others are you looking at?
@@TekinRacing hb e819, kyosho mp9e Evo, sworkz s35-3e, x-ray xb8e 2019....I'm leaning towards the HB....I can't decide
I have been running my car with 4S lipo, but the ESC was set up at 6S lipo. I ran it like that about four times what will happen to the battery is it bad? The battery was very hot when I was done running didn't really know why haven't tried it yet on 4s.
The batteries need to cut off at the proper voltage. If the ESC was set for 6S it would flash the 1-3-5 low voltage code when you plug in a 4S.
Tekin Racing I updated the ESC last night. I disconnected like the computer said and then when I hook everything back up it said it was set to 6s. I wonder if updating it set it to 6S? I then set it back to 4s and will run it today. Are you saying that if it was set to 6s it wouldn't run on 4s?
@@nuclearcrypto7743 correct, if it were set for 6S then cutoff would be around 19V (depending on what the per cell value is in the box above that slider) and a charged 4S would be below that at about 16.8. This would trigger the cutoff and the ESC would not drive and show the 1-3-5 code. Are you hitting 'Apply' when making setting changes in the HotWire?
Tekin Racing yes I hit apply after adjusting the esc back to 4s, I then plugged battery in and it ran. I just didn’t have time to run the car yet it was too late at night
No flux? At all? No good ol no.95 or the H-20 all by Oatey. Is this why I'm having a fkn hell of a time getting my solder to stick. Also I'm using a Xtronic #3020 which gives me temperature..is their a round about temp to solder these fat solder tabs...they do pull heat fast. Why I prefer sensored Mamba Monster X 1:8 kit...no soldering. I can weld but have hard time soldering the esc and motor pads only..go fig... will cold solder joint ruin a esc over time or wouldn't cold solder joint be weak and break off easy. Cause I give e all wire good tug side to side and pull upwards pretty good. I ask cause my tlr22 3.0 SR burned up the esc over less than 3 months time BUT I was running a solid 80° timing. That particular build I wasn't working so had to go little cheaper on parts...aluminum version skyrc ts120 which has pretty great power consistancy all way thru the pack..Orion Ultimate stock 17.5..savox 1258tg..2 nanotech ultimate 90c lipos..wifi wireless module for android app tuning which hasn't given me not 1 issue all summer and I have to say theirs plenty lines of code with those tunning options especially for the $nickel. Do run DX PRO with telemetry on the 1:8 truggy with castles & spektrums telem link cable which I'm not completely 100% sure on yet far as accuracy thru the esc link cable..all other spot on. Castle did send me a new link cable to compare numbers between both and to send back just what I found. Just hard find'n time.
Nope, no flux needed with 60/40 rosin core solder. I usually set the iron about 750F to solder our posts and it's always a breeze.
As for a cold solder joint damaging an ESC, it absolutely can. If it's a bad enough joint the resistance can be very high, causing high heat which only compounds the resistance issue and you get a situation that makes itself worse quickly. If a wire pops off and touches another, most of the time it will blow up a motor drive phase if it happens under power. My advice is to just practice and don't use too much solder. Also make sure you're not using silver solder, that takes higher heat and doesn't flow as easily.
@@TekinRacing sounds about rite. I been an auto tech for 23 years with ot much soldering experience except for few wires here and there. Usually use the solderless connectors with the shrink wrap ends. Ok so for a cold joint if its damaging my esc what signs would the esc show...cause I'm experiencing none far as hot to mild warm motor wires a.b.or c my power leads are cool to the touch. I can run this buggy in 90° heat for 20 to 25 minutes non stop and every wire esc all be cool to the touch amazingly...my motor just barely gets warm to where I have to leave my finger on the can for about 3 seconds just to feel some slight warmth. All while running 50° timing. I really check my end of all my wires for heat an absolutely nothing. It's crazy since how warm it is outside I would think my system would produce some more heat. I only ask a out the cold joint only on my esc side I had the problem getting the solder to stick.. the motor and lipo leads soldered perfect 1st time but that damn esc pads took me literally 8 to 9 times to finally get to stick but their stuck very solid and I mean I gave them all very good tugs and bends back and forth and they are solid. Part problem was I was too quick with the heat....due to the number of times i was afraid of desoldering the pcb. And you say no fluke hey...I'm thinking that fluke was my problem. So have I covered the possible signs to look for on cold solder. I'm pretty sure I dont have any but want to be 100% sure. Thank you so much for reading this short novel...lol
@@detroitrcwurks998 generally hot wires, hot motor and hot ESC can be signs of a bad solder joint or a setup that is geared too tall or has too much timing. If everything is cool after running then you should be fine.
@@TekinRacing EXACTLY what solder & brand are you using. I'm not getting the solder to stick without flux. I'm using bernzomatic 60/40 rosin core lead.. thank you for help..
What pinion gear did you use?
I used the 15T included in the kit.
Nice rig but after all that you put a Deans connector on it. 😐
Beautiful electronics and a Deans connector 😩
Been running Deans since we first did 1/8 E conversions back in 2005 and have never had any issues. ;)
Agreed...out of all the connectors Dean's are my least favorite. XT-60. XT-90. Castle 6.5MM Bullets 👍
thanks for having an opion
do you need to buy anything to build it?
A few tools, tires, paint, all the electronics, batteries and spare parts.
Deans?
Tools ... mip hand tools.. some trash electrical tools.. you have to invest in solid tools.. so no skimping allowed. 20 to 40 bucks gets you life long tools. Especially when dealing with high amperage applications
Am I losing my mind but the tlr buggy looks exactly like the duratrax 835 part for part.....
I'd say you're losing your mind! 🤣 Buggies are all similar but the 8IGHT-X E is its own design. Look at them again, the 835E doesn't really look anything like the X.
@@TekinRacing you're definitely right especially on the front suspension....I still have my 835e and its actually been a really fun buggy and super fast I'm thinking of stepping up to the TLR now it looks awesome.....
Tlr should of put the esc in front of the car . Its the reason why I won't get one ever again you go through 10 esc a season having it in the back . Can't handle it
I liked it up front in the 3.0, but I think 10 a season is a tiny bit of an exaggeration.
That's a 15 year old jammin buggy. 😂😂😂😂😂😂
Ok.
you used the 14 gauge spot for the 12 gauge wire. Just sayin...lol
Our jacket is thinner than most, 14awg spot works better.
@@TekinRacing I've seen that before it doesn't always match up. Hey any idea of mods on the new Associated RC8B3.2e ? I'm getting one next week. Love the channel
@@RonHaupler Associated cars are pretty well setup up out of the box, I'm not sure that car really needs any substancial modifications! Honestly I like to set cars up close to kit specs and settings and get some time on them before making many big changes. Diff fluids and shock fluids are really the only thing I have a base setup to start with for the kinds of tracks I run on and then I tune from there. If I had to pick a must-upgrade on just about any 1/8 scale it would probably be the servo saver if it is plastic. Those can be a weak point and I've broken many of them!
@@TekinRacing Alright thanks. I did also order an aluminum servo saver so I should be all set with that. Just getting back into the sport now after 10 years off. I raced a lot as a kid. I'm currently building my new RC10B6.2 for indoor carpet and outdoor astro turf at RC Madness in CT. The 1/8th scale will be for a loose outdoor dirt track there. Thanks again ! I'll be looking forward to a RC8B3.2e review !!!
@@RonHaupler I'll see if I can get ahold of one in the future!