!!!! When adding the refrigerant, be sure to purge the air that's in the hose. Why vacuum it out, just to put air back into the system???? He should have removed the second yellow hose going to the pump and pressed the schrader valve to purge the air. He also has the can upside down, sending in liquid. Do NOT do this. Keep the can upright so it fills the system slowly with gas. It is best to weigh in the refrigerant and if this guy knew what he was doing, he would have. The amount of refrigerant your car needs is located on a sticker inside the engine compartment. If installing a new pump, check to see if oil was already added at the factory. I like to drain any oil and add my own with UV dye. I want to be sure it has the correct amount of oil and to have the ability to locate any future leaks. Good luck.
I can't thank you enough for your videos. You have helped me fix and save more than you know. Fyi for anyone wondering...The TYC condenser does come with the drier like in the video. All the pics online show it without and I even called the manufacturer and the 1st guy told me it doesn't come with it but the product specialist ended up clarifying that they changed venders in 2019 and now it does come with it. He said he will update pics online to show the drier.
What was reason for compressor failure? Why did you not have to flush AC lines or is that only necessary for internal compressor damage? I’m looking to do this in the next week and need to know if I need to flush the lines if replacing compressor, condenser, and expansion valve or is it optional to not replace valve. Great video and subscribed.
Question, why not inject some PAG oil directly in the condenser and add the rest when you pull the vacuum? You added to the low side which pulls to compressor, which is good for the compressor but will settle in the compressor and none will go to the condenser? I do hvac and noticed no micron gauge on this, is one not required? I need to replace the compressor/condenser on my 05 j30 accord this weekend and just curious. Not saying your wrong just curious as to this is all.
Good question. PAG oil serves two purposes for the compressor: 1. Lubrication 2. Cooling. The cooling is accomplished with the oil circulating back to the compressor via the low pressure side. When both refrigerant and oil is released through the expansion valve or orifice tube, the cooled oil along with the low pressure gases return to the compressor to complete the cycle. This is unlike home ac systems where compressor oil stays within the compressor. Auto ac systems are constantly circulating PAG oil.
@@hardlymovingpro I noticed on the 4 Seasons compressor I have coming they say to turn the compressor 10 times or more prior to using on your car, what is your opinion on this? And thank you for your time to respond It is greatly appreciated.
Minute 10:00 when I try to change that sensor, put it on to the new AC condenser there was a nut in the new one and then I try to take off and air was coming out of that new AC condenser. You know why is like that?
Thx for taking the time to detail this job. You mentioned adding oil to compensate for the loss within the old condenser. Unless I missed it (and I realize you can’t film absolutely everything) did you carry out an oil balance with respect to the compressor?
No I don't. The compressors I buy (preferably Denso) come pre oiled with the factory specific amount and I add 1 to 1.5 oz for the condenser/accumulator replacement.
Your call by these bolt threads get corrosion cause by condensation; that is cool low pressure refrigerant returning to a hot compressor causing a temperature inversion.
Dear God im glad my suv is not that tight to remove condenser, just cant afford anymore parts🥺 i still want someone to be here to guide me, im in Houston if anyone can help me, please connect with me.
Yes. Although new compressors come pre-oiled, they don't contain the full PAG oil capacity of the system. For example, 7 oz total capacity; but 3 - 3.5 oil in the compressor. General rule is add 1 oz of oil for each component being replaced. That is, 1 oz for the condenser, 1 oz for the accumulator and around 1 oz for hoses if being replaced. This is why most 12 oz refrigerant cans are labeled to contain 1 oz of oil (they're assuming you fixed a leak and you lost 1.5 to 2.0 oz of oil at the leak point). So for example, if you're total refrigerant capacity is 18 oz, you'll need to replenish approximately 1.7 cans of 12 oz refrigerant cans.
@@hardlymovingpro ok thank you very much,in my case im going to replace the compressor and the condenser both new,do i have to add more oil also into the compressor?sorry for this question
Merci d'avoir partagé! Bien que les packs de remplacement de joints toriques AC soient de couleur verte, les nouveaux joints toriques fournis par les fabricants du compresseur et du condenseur sont noirs.
Not necessary. Any debris from a failed compressor will get trapped in the narrow tubules of the condenser. Expansion valve failures, from what I've experienced, is from too long open system exposure to air/moisture.
Did you not purge the yellow line after hooking up can, or did I miss something..? That's letting air/moisture in. Or is there a check valve. Or is it actually negligible (...don't think so...)
When I pulled vacuum via the pump, it vacuumed the air in all the lines including the yellow line for the refrigerant can connector. So no, there was no moisture in the yellow line.
@@spettro9dude stop being such a hater. I just used his video to help me out and it worked great. Also if you’re going to be working with refrigerant, and aren’t licensed, you shouldn’t!
Some compressors are shipped without oil. Most OEM compressors are shipped with oil. Like the Kehin compressors are filled with 130ml of oil from the factory.
Thanks for this video! I'm using it as a guide for this weekend when I replace my compressor and condenser, then recharge. Did you use two entire cans of 12 oz refrigerant? The service manual says this Accord uses 500-550g (17.6-19.4 oz) of refrigerant. Is 24 oz too much? I’ve seen other mechanics try and use a scale to get the exact amount, is this necessary?
If using your low and high pressure gauges during the recharge, expect to keep 3 oz on the high side hose when you close off the high side quick connect before shutting off the engine. Also, before shutting off the engine, your low side reading should be around 38 to 42 psi but more importantly, the high side should be reading 180 to 200 psi. Going an oz or so above the 19.4 oz won't matter that much but too much gas will freeze up your expansion valve.
Reporting back: Success! It took most of the day but we got it done. I recommend having an assistant with you if possible. Ran into a couple snags but nothing too bad. Watch this video multiple times and take notes and you'll be fine. AC gets all the way down 40° in the vent. Thanks again!
Radiator does NOT need to be removed. After taking the bolts off that hold it in place you just lean it back. Honda shop manual does not state to remove radiator and I just did this job ob 2003 accord 2.4
@@hardlymovingpro I am having my 2012 Honda Accord AC Condenser replace today and was told it would be ready Friday for 700 Dollars is that what it usually cost without the Compressor?
I dont like to work on ac system with out ac machine. Add ac oil in open air and not pulling vacuum on the system for 30min can have some moisture in the system.
!!!! When adding the refrigerant, be sure to purge the air that's in the hose. Why vacuum it out, just to put air back into the system???? He should have removed the second yellow hose going to the pump and pressed the schrader valve to purge the air. He also has the can upside down, sending in liquid. Do NOT do this. Keep the can upright so it fills the system slowly with gas. It is best to weigh in the refrigerant and if this guy knew what he was doing, he would have. The amount of refrigerant your car needs is located on a sticker inside the engine compartment. If installing a new pump, check to see if oil was already added at the factory. I like to drain any oil and add my own with UV dye. I want to be sure it has the correct amount of oil and to have the ability to locate any future leaks. Good luck.
Thanks for sharing!
I can't thank you enough for your videos. You have helped me fix and save more than you know. Fyi for anyone wondering...The TYC condenser does come with the drier like in the video. All the pics online show it without and I even called the manufacturer and the 1st guy told me it doesn't come with it but the product specialist ended up clarifying that they changed venders in 2019 and now it does come with it. He said he will update pics online to show the drier.
Good for you and thanks for sharing your experience!
What was reason for compressor failure? Why did you not have to flush AC lines or is that only necessary for internal compressor damage? I’m looking to do this in the next week and need to know if I need to flush the lines if replacing compressor, condenser, and expansion valve or is it optional to not replace valve.
Great video and subscribed.
Why did the compressor fail? Like everything else mechanical, nothing last forever. If no metallic debris in the lines, I don't flush.
Question, why not inject some PAG oil directly in the condenser and add the rest when you pull the vacuum? You added to the low side which pulls to compressor, which is good for the compressor but will settle in the compressor and none will go to the condenser? I do hvac and noticed no micron gauge on this, is one not required? I need to replace the compressor/condenser on my 05 j30 accord this weekend and just curious. Not saying your wrong just curious as to this is all.
Good question. PAG oil serves two purposes for the compressor: 1. Lubrication 2. Cooling. The cooling is accomplished with the oil circulating back to the compressor via the low pressure side. When both refrigerant and oil is released through the expansion valve or orifice tube, the cooled oil along with the low pressure gases return to the compressor to complete the cycle. This is unlike home ac systems where compressor oil stays within the compressor. Auto ac systems are constantly circulating PAG oil.
@@hardlymovingpro I noticed on the 4 Seasons compressor I have coming they say to turn the compressor 10 times or more prior to using on your car, what is your opinion on this? And thank you for your time to respond It is greatly appreciated.
Doesn't hurt to do what they say.
Do you have to change condenser when replacing the ac compressor
Usually a good idea to replace both.
The pag add oil trick is very nice. I’ve had trouble with injecting it in system when only replacing condenser. Thanks
Glad it helped!
Isn't there already enough pag oil in the new compressor (which the factory oil should have been emptied and filled with new)?
Good video.. sir can you let me know the part number.. I have k24a JDM engine.. is it the same compressor..??
Thanks! Parts and tools used in the description of this video.
I change the compressor coil immediately after that the radio sound became noisy and not clear
Don't see how they're related?
Enjoyed another one of your air conditioning videos. Thank you. Can you please provide a link for the box of assorted a/c o-ring seals?
Sure thing! amzn.to/3vkmDri
Minute 10:00 when I try to change that sensor, put it on to the new AC condenser there was a nut in the new one and then I try to take off and air was coming out of that new AC condenser. You know why is like that?
Difficult to say without seeing you're problem.
What kind of Bolt Screw is the one is showed in min 9:27, What kind of thread UNC? and all the spec of that screw Please!
It's called a stud and accommodates a standard 10mm nut.
Thx for taking the time to detail this job. You mentioned adding oil to compensate for the loss within the old condenser. Unless I missed it (and I realize you can’t film absolutely everything) did you carry out an oil balance with respect to the compressor?
No I don't. The compressors I buy (preferably Denso) come pre oiled with the factory specific amount and I add 1 to 1.5 oz for the condenser/accumulator replacement.
Sorry man, but I’m not putting anti-seize on my compressor bolts
Your call by these bolt threads get corrosion cause by condensation; that is cool low pressure refrigerant returning to a hot compressor causing a temperature inversion.
Dear God im glad my suv is not that tight to remove condenser, just cant afford anymore parts🥺 i still want someone to be here to guide me, im in Houston if anyone can help me, please connect with me.
Z
How much does it normally cost if you have to get condenser an compressor together
Less than $500
Very good video,do you always jave to add oil in the condenser when you change the 2?
Yes. Although new compressors come pre-oiled, they don't contain the full PAG oil capacity of the system. For example, 7 oz total capacity; but 3 - 3.5 oil in the compressor. General rule is add 1 oz of oil for each component being replaced. That is, 1 oz for the condenser, 1 oz for the accumulator and around 1 oz for hoses if being replaced. This is why most 12 oz refrigerant cans are labeled to contain 1 oz of oil (they're assuming you fixed a leak and you lost 1.5 to 2.0 oz of oil at the leak point). So for example, if you're total refrigerant capacity is 18 oz, you'll need to replenish approximately 1.7 cans of 12 oz refrigerant cans.
@@hardlymovingpro ok thank you very much,in my case im going to replace the compressor and the condenser both new,do i have to add more oil also into the compressor?sorry for this question
Generally no need to add more oil to a new compressor that comes pre-oiled.
So The evaporator don’t have oil ? I thought it take another ounce.
@@hardlymovingpro ok thank you
Why is it not needed to do expansion valves? The kit im looking at has 2 with it. And I also did not see any new gaskets on ?
Expansion valves are downstream of the condenser and accumulator which will pickup any debris from a failed compressor before it gets to the valve.
salut, merci pour cette vidéo détaillée, par contre tu mets des joints toriques ordinaires, alors qu'il faudrait des joints spéciaux verts
Merci d'avoir partagé! Bien que les packs de remplacement de joints toriques AC soient de couleur verte, les nouveaux joints toriques fournis par les fabricants du compresseur et du condenseur sont noirs.
Where did you order all your parts from If you can please respond because I need to replace the same things
Check out the description area of this video for links.
How much pag oil when changing the compressor?
Should be pre loaded with new oil.
Obligatory Liked and Sub’d!! 👍▶️
Thanks!
Hola qué buen video una pregunta sabes si el compresor del honda 2.4 le queda a un 3.0 honda accord v6 crees que sean compatibles?
Dudo mucho que un compresor V6 funcione en un I4
Is this the same procedure for the V6 model??
Concept is the same but the layout of the compressor mount to the engine would be different.
You forgot the expansion valve
Not necessary. Any debris from a failed compressor will get trapped in the narrow tubules of the condenser. Expansion valve failures, from what I've experienced, is from too long open system exposure to air/moisture.
Great video, thanks. Question. if I replace only the compressor, do I have to vacuum and put oil, and freon on the system???
No oil needed if only replacing compressor
@@hardlymovingprothank you, how about vacuum and refrigerant????
@@manotas2u2 yes you still need to vacuum and add refrigerant. Should be a label in the engine compartment indicting how much.
Question.. if the compressor comes with oil probably Duplicate the amount of oil in the system ?
I aways enjoy watching your videos. keep up the good work!
Thanks for your support!
At 10:09 what size was the socket to tighten the sensor to the condenser?
I think 24 mm
But did it fix the problem
Of course!
Great video, I need to do the exact same job, fortunate for me. Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it and good luck with the repair!
You didn't do the expansion valve ?
Not necessary.
Great channel; glad you up with another video!
Thanks!
What about the expansion valve
If you want to rip the dash apart to get to it ... the more power to you!
Did you not purge the yellow line after hooking up can, or did I miss something..?
That's letting air/moisture in.
Or is there a check valve.
Or is it actually negligible (...don't think so...)
When I pulled vacuum via the pump, it vacuumed the air in all the lines including the yellow line for the refrigerant can connector. So no, there was no moisture in the yellow line.
@@hardlymovingpro You didn't show disconnecting the vacuum pump and hooking up the can, that's where air will get in
Two seperate yellow lines; one for the pump, the other for the cans.
@@hardlymovingpro Ah, I see
That would be a good point to mention, since it seems most setups only have 1
@@spettro9dude stop being such a hater. I just used his video to help me out and it worked great. Also if you’re going to be working with refrigerant, and aren’t licensed, you shouldn’t!
Why not add the full 6 oz of oil recommended by the oem
My compressor says to add the full factory amount
To be absolutely sure, drain oil from both the new and old compressors and compare the difference. Add 1 oz if also replacing the condenser.
Some compressors are shipped without oil. Most OEM compressors are shipped with oil. Like the Kehin compressors are filled with 130ml of oil from the factory.
Thanks for this video! I'm using it as a guide for this weekend when I replace my compressor and condenser, then recharge. Did you use two entire cans of 12 oz refrigerant? The service manual says this Accord uses 500-550g (17.6-19.4 oz) of refrigerant. Is 24 oz too much? I’ve seen other mechanics try and use a scale to get the exact amount, is this necessary?
If using your low and high pressure gauges during the recharge, expect to keep 3 oz on the high side hose when you close off the high side quick connect before shutting off the engine. Also, before shutting off the engine, your low side reading should be around 38 to 42 psi but more importantly, the high side should be reading 180 to 200 psi. Going an oz or so above the 19.4 oz won't matter that much but too much gas will freeze up your expansion valve.
@@hardlymovingpro That makes sense, thank you!
Reporting back: Success! It took most of the day but we got it done. I recommend having an assistant with you if possible. Ran into a couple snags but nothing too bad.
Watch this video multiple times and take notes and you'll be fine. AC gets all the way down 40° in the vent. Thanks again!
Good deal and thanks for sharing!
Glad to see you’re back with a new video!
Hope you enjoyed it!
Dang dude good job 👍🎉
You bet!
Radiator does NOT need to be removed. After taking the bolts off that hold it in place you just lean it back. Honda shop manual does not state to remove radiator and I just did this job ob 2003 accord 2.4
True but little effort removing it and I have more room.
Thanks
Welcome!
Thank you
You bet!
Hello, I would like to know how long does it take to complete this kind of Work?
Around 3 hours for me
@@hardlymovingpro I am having my 2012 Honda Accord AC Condenser replace today and was told it would be ready Friday for 700 Dollars is that what it usually cost without the Compressor?
About right. Sorry for the late response.
Like 30-60 minutes
I dont like to work on ac system with out ac machine. Add ac oil in open air and not pulling vacuum on the system for 30min can have some moisture in the system.
Thanks for sharing!
Good job working in those tight areas ! Another great video, thank you. Blessings 🙏
Thanks 👍