Replaceing Oil pressure Switch! 82-86 Chevrolet S10 2.8v6
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- Опубликовано: 31 окт 2021
- Todays video we Replace bad Oil Pressure switch for A gauge , 82-86 Chevrolet S10 2.8 carbureted or tbi fuel injected.
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Lots of good tips here. We have had our 1984 S10 since brand new in 1985. Sat on the lot all winter here in Oregon. Was the only truck that fit my 4``10" height perfectly. Have rebuilt original 2,8L engine at 233,000 miles & now have 280,000 miles. Truck is used for hauling farm products such as hay, grain,straw & yes even fresh cut grass from another property we care for. With care & 3,000 mile oil changes engine can last a long time. Machinist was amazed how clean the engine was disassembled for rebuild. Needed rings & re-bore badly. Re-bored to .040 over size. Crankshaft was still at original specs & only needed polishing! Wish my engine was as clean as yours! Before my mother & I purchased this farm in 1998 the truck was used in property maintaining work which it still does as well as farm work too. We have the 5 speed B/W manual transmission with 3.73 rear axle gearing. Manual windows. No A/C & sliding rear window with long bed. Only truck that fits perfectly my small size & stature. Of course our Thoroughbreds all seem to fit well once I climb aboard using a ladder!
Wow that's alot miles for the carbureted 2.8s I don't think I've heard or hardly thought they would make it that far but now the TBI 2.8s would I owned a 92 5-speed 2.8 it's on the channel .
You should see my truck now there's more videos of it and it has a new engine now the orange 2.8 finally gave up on me so I swapped in a crate engine 82 model 2.8 and I painted it Blue this time and swapped the truck from a auto to a 5apeed manual but yeah everything is on the channel and I'm close to being the only one around that does anything with these old 2.8s anymore .
Also interesting yours is a 5speed with 373s cause that's what I have but the RPMs are way to high for the interstate highway cause at 70mph in 5th I'm doing 2800-3000 RPMs and that's to high for it , my automatic didn't do that so maybe it's the gearing inside the trans itself that I got from the junkyard
@@KnuckleHeadGarage27 That`s about the RPM I have at 55mph. Since my truck has "High Altitude Emissions" It is geared & setup for the greatest degree of power allowed by Federal emissions law. If your engine is okay & you have a good radiator, ( have 3 core installed) you should be alright. Just have to make sure engine does not get overly hot on high speed or distance trips. Used to work as a GM asst. parts mgr. At 1st could not find parts for my own truck!! Ben my mgr. laughed & asked "what emissions it said on engine label". I told him & he laughed again & said I had to look for the parts in the "Police / High Performance Section" of catalog! Surprise, surprise I was then able to find a carburetor rebuild kit plus some other control switches as well. That GM dealership is now long gone including the fairly newish bldg. of the late 70`s!!
Got my Blazer back from shop after I couldn’t get the larger switch of because of clearance. While it was there they recommended replacing upper and lower radiator hoses and clamps. Of course as luck would have it, where it was parked had oil and antifreeze on ground underneath. So it’’s
Back at shop trying to fix leaks. The switch you replaced that had only 1 connector, what color was the wire? The tan wire I couldn’t find where it went had the same connector you had. Shop tested wire and said it was not hot so must have been for a feature that wasn’t installed, so don’t worry about it. Strange that on S-10 Forum a guy wrote in asking where did it go? Since both oil pressure switches had white and tan wires and the unknown wire was tan and came out of the same harness to trace it back. Shop said it went back to clipped tan and white, but couldn’t find anything after that so I’ll tape it up and forger it. Mine is ‘86 2.8 TBI so it wouldn’t fit a category of the one you had that tape got sucked in.
Ahh yeah I believe mine is a tan wire an goes up into wireing harness at the back of engine next to the distributor on the driver side .
Yeah yours being a 86 an the TBI is a tad different this one 88 has 2 or 3 of those damn sensors . One for a light an one for the gauge an both are in same location next to the oil filter housing caus w I replaced both on this one truck of a friend of mine
How do you like the 2.8 vs the 2.5? Do you notice quite a bit more power? what about fuel economy mpg? Thank you. Interesting video.
Yes a bit more HP than 2.5 and they don't blow headgaskets like 2.5s did . I've had problems with that very common so I've heard too , I've had 4 s10s and 1 different vehicle that had 2.5 and all blew headgasket . I like them but not much HP its rated at 92hp for 2.54cyl and 2.8s depending on what year u have had 125-135hp but I'll say whatever u choose don't get a automatic behind them they are slow , a 5-speed will be a night and day difference. Fuel mileage hard to say , carbureted 2.8 that's in mine is terrible
Shop had also reattached tail pipe to exhaust pipe and it separated going home. For a short while it had a low V8 rumble which was annoying. Hopefully that will be fixed when I pick it up.
Goodness lol
Great content, I have a 82 s10 2.8 v6. Any chance you do an air pump delete on it? Or have an idea on doing so??
Yes the smog pump admissions bullcrap is deleted on this. It's easy you can remove the hoses an cap whatever off you don't need an take the belt an everything off an remove the hole smog pump stuff.
I also deleted EGR valve too an all vacuum lines an old rubber hoses it didn't need . Also I had the long little metal tubes that was for the smog pump cut off an deleted an welded up shut .
Hey how's it going.Do you have a video on how you did away with those vacuum hoses? I have a 1983 s10 Blazer 2.8 L. I need to put me a new carburetor on there but I really don't want to deal with all them vacuum hoses. thanks I appreciate it
Sadly no but however and possibly I should .
Main things you only need going to the carb for vacuum hoses and vent hoses . There is 2 vacuum hoses only used 1 for the distributor for vacuum advance , then there's 1 going to the lockup torque converter switch on the driver side fender if you have a 4speed automatic like mine , not sure for 3speed autos .
Then you have 1 pcv vent hose from valave cover to carb . Then 1 vent hose that runs to side of carb all the way to Vapor canister
Any chance you could do a video of proper vacuum lines runs or where they go? My 84 2.8 doesn’t blow cold air through vents only through top and bottom.
Yeah I do plan on maken video just for this I have had several ask about this cause apparently not many know or they wanna delete the emissions junk and clean up the engine bay like I have done .
If your having trouble with the vents I'd say it's either the actual ac and heater controls there is a piece on the back that breaks and leaks vacuum inside the truck you should hesr a hissing sound or if not then it is how its hooked up under the hood
@@KnuckleHeadGarage27 Man this is awesome info. Appreciate it. i got my 84 S-10 tahoe edition with 49k original miles in it last summer. Been fixing her up since, its my daily vehicle.
I just bought my 85 2.8 S15 4x4. I am assuming the same process still, correct? Also, my oil pressure gauge says my psi is through the roof (or cluster). Thanks!
Yes same setup for The blazers even if it's 4×4 or not but the oil filter is different on those versus the 2wd 2.8 of how its mounted . Mine reads 80psi cold and a little less than 40psi when hot now that I have a new engine in this truck and that video and more is on the channel with the new engine swap and etc .
Now I had a actual mechanical gauge on it and the factory gauge is wrong , it's 60psi cold and around 15-20psi hot with Running 10W30 Diesel Oil . I plan on putting actual Gauges in the truck Cause the factory ones aren't exactly A 100% Accurate now that I have used a actual good gauge on it
Do you have a video of the adjustment on the carb? It takes mine forever to stay running after sitting for a day. I'm also in NC btw.
I am honestly not an expert when it comes to these type of carburetors . However when I bought this carburetor and installed it on the truck I pretty much just installed it out of the box and have never touched it and so far never had an issue out of it .
I did however mess with the idle a little bit but these are bad the floats sticking an causing issue's with hot soak an what u mean running like
Sounds like you don't have any choke whenever it's cold to help it warm up
@@KnuckleHeadGarage27 I'm thinking the choke isn't engaging as well. Do you have the part number for that carb? I might need to replace mine.
I bought it off of discount carburetor.com
Cost $200 shipped to the door
Do you know of any preformance parts for this engine or ways to remove some un nessary vaccum emissions? Mine is sputtering under little gas but goes great if you give it more throttle, also under wot my 2nd valve won't open so it's a single barrel pretty much, it feels weak and it's the 4x4 so I'd have no luck with a 350 swap unless i took the 2wd front end and installed it to clear the oil pan
Honestly there really isn't performance parts for these anymore at least I can't find them . There was heades an a few things but now that's all gone
Definitely sounds like needs a new carburetor bad then an I replaced mine already cause it had one of those issues an many others . An as for a v8 swap u would need a 4×4 trany too cause 2.8 trans is different an will not work with a v8 only thr 4.3s has an shares the same trans as a v8 cause bolt pattern an everything is different
I deleted everything I didn't need or want . So only vacuum hoses is what it only needed the rest of that emissions shit I trashed . No EGR valve , smog pump , vacuum hoses , an the air pipes to the manifolds for the smog junk was removed too .
The carburetor I picked up from off line discount carburetors .com has them an paid $200 shipped to the door
@@KnuckleHeadGarage27 thanks ill defnitly have to look it up, sucks that there's not many parts for these, I bet with rods pistons full direct Injection with a turbo it could make 300 hp, I'd be happy with about 200 tho
Yeah now a 3.4 has some parts you can get for them if I'm not mistaken. Has more HP than 2.8
@@KnuckleHeadGarage27 yes its a direct drop in swap for the most part, you can use the 2.8 intake and headers along with the accessories
Is it possible to swith the oil and coolant sensor with mechanical gauges? I have the dummy lights and would rather have accurate readout
Yes you can . I actually did this on my S10 just haven't posted a video of that
Did you put a t on the oil or just swap it enirely to mechanical
You can put a T fitting in there so you have and keep both one for factory dummy light and one for the mechanical gauge that u want. Because some s10s had a T fitting already in there for just that . One was for a dummy light and other for a factory gauge
Alright i appreciate it man ill problably only have the mechanicals i already put in a new alt new battery doing a nightmare of wiring lol. But as long as it fits shell be on the road next month or month after with rallys and prostars
Where could I get a breather from just like that one?
The chrome pop in ones that I have in valve cover? Those you can get at any parts store for like $10 bucks
Does your fuel pump run all the time when truck is on
The Fuel pump is mechanical style on the block all 80-85 2.8s are like that. 86-93 are electric fuel pumps in the fuel tank
@@KnuckleHeadGarage27 thanks I have an 84 GMC s15 2.8 and the pump is inline not in the tank trying to find out if it runs the whole time time the truck is running because when I drive the truck dies and will only run at low speeds so I think the pump is turn off and on might be faulty
@@hugegizmo151 Ahh i see you have that style which is kinda odd to have that setup but it sounds like someone added a clicky clack as they call it fuel pump on the frame then cause that shouldn't be stock . But anyhow that could be a clogged up fuel filter or yeah a failing pump or a bad fuel hose swelling up on the inside and cutting fuel supply I've had that happen on a c10 . But
For that setup it probably will run the whole time with the key on and engine off cause of how it is wired for those.
but it should most definitely keep running with the engine running or it will die after so long when it losses fuel
I have a 88 4.3 is it different
Yes They are on the 4.3s and 4.3s is at the back of the engine next to the distributor
Is this the same 2.8 that is the Celebrities?
Yes except this is made for rear wheel drive of course. An not fwd but I'm sure with some modifying it could be put in a fwd car
My engine just got rebuild and it's leaking oil everywhere
That's not good
Stop using duralast electronic parts and you will have one that last longer.
Usually never have a problem with them but no matter where you go most parts are made from same place just different names on them .
Mine with the bad main has really high pressure cold and next to none hot, will raise to 30 or so while driving but it still knocks like a bitch
Oof that's not good man . That's what my old 2.8 engine did that was orange and I Ran it like that for about 5 or so years before a year ago it finally gave up to where it was trying to lockup so I finally Swapped it . I was Running The Thickest Oil I could get 20W50 and added 1 big bottle of high milage Lucas and that held it together for that whole time until like I say it got worse and worse to where compression wasn't great and blow by was horrible to where it was plugging up the breather filters with this nasty thick yellowish milky stuff and oil cap had it too ha that engine was so worn out and the guy Ripped me off big time I'll never do that again .
Even how bad off that engine was including how bad the crank wobbled at idle was scary and the timing chain had some horrible slop back and forth I'm amazed cause I took it everywhere and it never did once ever ever break down on me .
That's the most one biggest problem with these early 1980-85 2.8s FWD and RWD was bearings and cranks and shitty stock cams and oiling issues. I'll never mess with another earlier 2.8 after the new one I put in my truck. It will either get the later model style 86-93 or a 3.4 from a Camaro which I think would be the best for it but Finding one is very hard down here and that runs I don't wanna really buy one if I can't Hear it Run cause of the problems I've dealt with on these
@@KnuckleHeadGarage27 I found a guy real close to me that said he had a 3.4 or maybe a few, he replied back and said he had one and never replied back when I said tell me what you got and we can do business! I need to remessage him today, he has a bunch of Camaro and trans ams, I check market place every so often! My block is the 93 and it only had 143k on it when I bought it and I put 20k on it so far, I'm about to put heads and timing back on my block so I done a quick search before I used all my new gaskets hoping I would land a 3.4, hopefully this cat gets back with me, he's not even an hour away from my work!
The 2.8 block I have now only has 114k on it, it's a 1 piece oil pan, big head, TB motor, I'm not sure the yr but it wasn't a 90 and up truck body, I did notice it had the older ac compressor not converted and the older style plug for AC, not sure if that narrows down the yr, but it's definitely not a 1st gen
@@troybrake5686 interesting well if it had that was it V-belts or serpentine belt setup cause the V-belts setup . I'm looking for a 3.4v6 for mine just extremely hard 93-95 apparently is only years to get one
No way it's got 80 !
Yes it's very true it actually does , but that's only cold and mainly because of what type of oil and additives I'm running in it is why it's so high and it's not the stock pump either .
It's not running 80 psi anymore it's actually running only 60 PSI when it's cold and about 10 when it's hot