I WILL DO THIS EVERY TIME IF I CAN FOR A TUB SPOUT REPLACEMENT!
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- Опубликовано: 26 мар 2021
- I WILL DO THIS EVERY TIME IF I CAN FOR A TUB SPOUT REPLACEMENT! best way on how to replace tub spout when you have copper pipe is soldering copper pipe. Replacing bathtub spout is easy with male adapter. Subscribe here : / @thatfixitguy
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Nicely done! I was waiting for the bread trick when you soldered the pipe. Keep up the great work! -Ed
Thank you Ed! I really appreciate it.
Bread Trick ?
@@46GarageUSA you can put bread, no crust, inside the pipe to absorb the water. It gives you a little time to solder the joint without water contamination. After soldering turn on the water and the bread comes out
@@46GarageUSA Bread trick is an old plumber's trick to stop the water when soldering. Put bread in the pipe to stop the water. It won't hold pressure but will absorb the water. When done, it will blow right out. Not needed here as you can just boil out any residual water where soldering.
@@46GarageUSA yeah. You push a piece of bread into the pipe if it has a slow trickle of water when you need to solder. When you're done let the water pressure push the piece of bread out. Done it many times works great.
Everything was good. I would have done 2 things differently. Rotate the Teflon spool around so it don't unravel from spool as you wrap, and when you caulk, leave the very bottom 1/2" clean so if any water gets inside, it can drain out to tub , not behind wall.
Great points. Thank you.
Yup. I do both of those things as well
Plus it tightens down on itself when you wrap the Teflon with the roll the other way around.
Excellent. My elderly aunt had a shower that stopped working. I had no idea what I was looking at but kept searching until I found a video that matched her set up. Now I know what to do. Thankfully I won't require soldering. The male thread is already there. My grandfather probably did it. He built the house from scratch.
Thank you for this! I was getting so frustrated with trying to replace the lousy slip-on spouts- they always leaked, no matter what I did. I used a propane torch because that's what I have on hand, and it worked like a charm. No more leaks, spout is now snug against the wall. I doubt a plumber could have done better. 😁 Thanks again!
Your welcome! So glad this helped. Please share your experience and help us grow. Thank you.
Nice to see a tradesman do stuff like this that explains all the little tips and tricks, and incite! Thanks Fix It Guy!
Nice thanks. This gave me the courage to really grip that plastic sleeve and twist it out of my old tub spout. Previously I was convinced in was a one piece/ permanent connection.
You are an excellent TEACHER. THANKS for all your lessons. I am a computer professor and don't know anything about all this important things, specially when you live alone with no help.
Greetings from Puerto Rico.😊
Excellent job man. I love how you explain everything clearly and give excellent tips. Keep the great vids coming. Especially anything plumbing related. Much appreciated. Thank you!
Thanks! Will do! I really appreciate it.
Great job Brian you make things look so easy, hope you have a great weekend 👍
Thank you Britt. It worked out so well! That rarely happens! Hope you have a great weekend as well!
Thanks for taking the time to produce this type of content! Cool vid!
Your welcome. Thank you.
Mine should be replaced, but have put it off. This video popped up and was a great kick in the pants reminder. Guess it's getting taken care of this week. Appreciate your videos.
You got this!
Thanks for the tips Brian! Enjoyed the video.
Awesome! I’m glad. Your welcome and thank you for watching!
On a side note, I kept hearing his wife shout, “You used my good towel?!?” 🤣
😂 I think that is every wife.
Nicely done! Time for me to fix mine!!!
You are an Excellent teacher
I try! Thank you
Nice job! For the caulk around the tub,I put on some rubber gloves,and soak some Kleenex/toilet paper in bleach and place it against the existing caulk,which kills the mold,and leaves the caulk white again. Give it an hour or two. I now towel down the stall after a shower,which prevents new mold from growing. Takes a couple of minutes,but saves a ton of time compared with the alternative.
Just did this video step by step and I’m ready to become a plumber 😅 no seriously you saved me some money no longer my guest bathroom shoots out
Very nice straightforward demo. I always wondered if copper soldering was very difficult.
Yeah go ahead and solder, Repipe your whole house while you’re at it. When everything leaks call an actual licensed plumber lmfao
You can CALL a plumber but it'll lot easier and faster to go the local pub to find one...get there around noon before theyre all shit faced...😆...btw you're just a plumber guy so calm your tits...it ain't rocket science.
It’s not that crazy. I thought a high schooler to solder in 2 min and his first joint was awesome. It can be done.
Excellent class. Thank you !
Always heat the fitting not the pipe for you newbies. Also a little trick taught to me by an old plumber to keep water from drawing to you while soldering. Stick bread in the pipe, not the crust but the soft part. Jam it in there and it buys you just a little time and then the bread just dissolves from the water.
All that is great info. I was planning on doing solder videos in detail in the future. Thank you for sharing!
My brother-in-law showed me this trick 30 years ago. I don’t think I’ve soldered since but it is a good tip that works.
As long as it's highly refined white bread it will dissolve. And don't use jelly.
jam it up in there
Heat the pipe and then the fitting.
All wrong...you heat the pipe first, then go to fitting, then apply solder. The pipe and fitting need to be at approximately the same temp when applying solder for full penetration. There are videos from the Copper Development Association that explains the proper way to solder here on RUclips. Also, the bread WILL get stuck in pipe...that isn't something you should be preaching.
I wasn’t looking at the caulk, but once you pointed it out lol
That’s like one of those things that once you see it, you can’t unsee it. Lmao
Totally true! It was bad.
Bro you are so help full Thanks always doing channel.
Thank you for watching! I love helping and I’m glad you enjoy watching the videos.
Awesome brother, you made it looks so easy. 👌
Been in the trade 29 years,stay kleen flux is my go to,silva brite 100 for solder,jet-swet tools for wet lines and 1-2-3 technique with torch,1(pipe,2(front of socket/cup,3(back of fitting.P S if you move flame further back near the wall and pull it forward it will pull the water out!
Awesome. Thank you for this. Very good detail. I try not to get close to to the wall if I can help it. May have caught a bathroom on fire year 1.
@@ThatFixItGuy Get a blue monster torch-guard pad! That way no chance of fire! Thx for the reply
The first time I ever replaced a tub spout, it refused to turn loose and I collapsed the copper pipe trying. When I had to do it again (I had two baths) I used a hacksaw and cut through the whole thing right behind the spout. I actually like the slip on type. As you can see right in the beginning of the video, they are easy to remove and replace.
On man. These can be the worst at times. I do like the slip on as well.
@@ThatFixItGuy I almost collapsed it but it was workable as is for a couple of years. Now, after much use the copper pipe has ripped a hole close to the wall. Do you have a video that shows what would be involved in repairing that that you could point me to?
Great information and presentation
Glad you liked it. I'm trying.
Very good. I own a small Handyman Business and would have done it the same way. Good job.
right on. Thank you Shane
Really interesting to watch this!
I'm glad you enjoyed it Gerry. Thanks for watching! Hope you have a wonderful Easter!
The foolproof way to determine the length of the pipe is to: thread the male adapter part way into the spout using your finger, next slide the spout along with adapter onto the 1/2” pipe, neat measure the gap between the tile and the spout and cut that much off, then remove the adapter from the spout and solder it on the pipe. The fact that you never tightened it during the measurement process allows you enough play to get the spout tight without leaving a gap.
you made it so simple & i feel confident about how to do it by myself...thank you for a great DIY!
So glad to hear this! Please share and help us grow. Thank you.
Thanks what if tub spout keeps leaking....
Nice work! I have a personal experience story about these spouts. My parents' second home had a valve knob on the wall for selecting where the user wanted the water to go, to the shower or to the spout into the bath tub. It was best to turn that knob before turning on the water, especially if you wanted to take a bath. Otherwise, the water might come out of the shower head and spray on your hair. My mother would have get her hair wet and complain that the last family member hadn't turned the knob back to shower, as she had asked us to do. She never seemed to learn that we were never going to remember and that she had to check it herself before turning on the water!
Anyway, my first experience with a spout diverter knob was after being checked into a hotel room. At the time, the knobs were labelled "lift for shower". Being used to selecting tub or shower before turning on the water, I lifted the knob. However, as soon as I let go, it fell down. I couldn't get it to stay up. I thought that the knob should stay up and was faulty. I checked my room and belongings for something to prop the knob up, to no avail. I decided to try to take a shower anyway, planning to hold the knob up with one hand and wash myself with the other. That's when I found that the knob would stay up once the water was on! Furthermore, it automatically went back to the tub position once the water was shut off, sparing the next guest's hair from being sprayed.
What a wonderful invention! I wish my father, who was quite the handyman, had known about and installed one of these spouts in our family home. My mother would never have got her hair wet that way again!
I wish they had made the knob larger and added the instruction to turn the water on first. However, none of the people that I talked to had a problem with not turning the water on first, but I do wonder how many calls made by guests who needed to be told that. Of the thousands of guests, I imagine that a fair number of calls were made when the spouts were first introduced. Of course, now, people all so familiar with these spouts that the "lift for shower" instructions have long since been eliminated from new spouts.
I am one of those people. The shock of the diverter being up gets be every time! It is a rude awaking at 4 am with cold water. Mine will usually go down by itself, but not all the time. Thank you for sharing.
I'm sure I would have had the same problem as you! If I ever encounter such a thing, I'll know to turn the water on, first!
@@ThatFixItGuy Thanks for replying! You can, of course, protect yourself by remembering to push the diverter button down after each shower. However, you may not have any more luck getting yourself to remember as my mother had getting us to remember! So, fixing the problem is probably your best solution. You can install a new spout. If you don't want to spend money on a new spout, I think it is mineral buildup that keeps the button from dropping down. So, you can try to remove the mineral deposits by removing the spout and soaking it in white vinegar.
I love sweating pipe. (at least when it is dry). Watching that solder just draw in is so relaxing.
Best Regards, Jason
I enjoy it as well, but I rarely do any these days. We use propress at work because it does not require a burn permit. I will be doing some solder videos when the garage is set up. Thanks for watching Jason!
Great pointers thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Something to pay attention to though is the instructions for the new spout. Many explicitly state to NOT use Teflon on the connection. It can cause the threaded female end on the spout to split. The guys that wrap way too much tape on are probably the real culprit in the logic for why not to.
Some tub spouts are made of chromed plastic. That's why I'm keeping my old heavy tub spout built like a tank.
Teflon tape is only meant to allow the fitting to thread on easier. It is not intended to be a sealant. Two wraps is plenty. However, on larger fittings it doesn't hurt to have the tape go further along the threads.
I love your content. Thank you
Thank you.
Awesome video!
Thanks you sandy. Hope you how a great weekend.
@@ThatFixItGuy thanks, y'all too!!
Good job 👍
Don’t know if that blue dope will come off in the future, I put putty around the pipe at wall but you did a good job and that’s how I’ve done a hundred . Now I like to use genuine delta spout with pull down nose and sweat the brass fitting on . Delta spout is the longest lasting l know of .CPVC coming out of the wall is a different challenge.
You are a kick ass instructor and I love your enthusiasm about fixing stuff!!!! I do have a question though and hope you can help.
I recently had my shower head stop shooting out water and only from the tub. So I took the old tub diverter off and replaced with a new one in a kit I did notice, when removing the old diverter, that the larger washer inside the actual spout (that stops the water) had slipped out of place. This is the larger rubber gasket (not the tiny one on actual pull handle) and where the diverter clips sit. So I went and bought a replacement tub diverter kit and installed it. It was the same one that was installed before, but the new tub diverter large washer still keeps slipping out of place like it did when my shower head stopped workinng which then makes the clips loose and wonky and then falls out of place. What am I doing wrorng or missing here?!!?? Thanks!!!!!
Great video.
I always like to install male adapters for toilet and sink, water shut offs for future easy replacement of valves.
I really like this practice. My first plumbing mentor was the same was.
You did that!! good shit thank yo for the info.
Not my preferred method but nice work. I generally use Delta tub spouts. In this case I would have installed a new 1/2 inch threaded stub out, cut it to length, and installed a new brass tub spout adapter. No soldering required. Also, most tub spouts have a drain hole in the bottom that precludes the need to caulk them to the wall.
what a great video, subbed for sure.
Thanks for the sub! we really appreciate it.
Great work
Thank you.
Great fix brother. I bet you wish they where all that easy
Thanks Steve! Oh man I so wish! I have a story to tell at some point! Let’s just say where there’s smoke there can potentially be fire!
🙀 Best soldering I ever seen in my life... Mines would of had beads all over it Lol
lol. I doubt that. I could have you soldering good joints in no time.
TY MANN!
Your welcome. Thank you for watching.
I will add - if the whole house water supply is ever interrupted - when turned back on sediment will come with the water. Always open the tub faucet first and let it run for at least 15 seconds, look for gunk coming out with the water. Gap at the bottom when chalking is always a good idea for a tub spout.
Instead of caulking around the wallset, run a bead of clear silicone sealer on the end and let set enough to be tacked off good, this will seal it and not turn black from mold/etc.
Thank you for that tip. I’ve never done it that way.
@@ThatFixItGuy I have used it for a fix on somebody else's screw up, They had a toilet set to close to the wall and then had the flooring in before they put water to it, this leaned the tank inward and made the mack seal leak, after three trys at fixing it with a bigger seal, I built a dam of clear silicon around and on top of it, set the tank in and let it cure overnight. So far an 5+ year fix. Since then I have found it to be the miracle for when that threaded fitting just won't stop seeping, a little smear in the threads before assembly is way better than teflon tape.
I know this is an older video, but from my experience if the diverter fails it's because the shower valve inside the wall is leaking and has a drip. This provides a constant supply of fresh water that will eat away at the metal surface that the gasket on the diverter would otherwise seal against. The diverter relies on a clean smooth surface for the gasket to seal. Once the leaking water corrodes the round opening the diverter will no longer seal. The fix is to address the leaking shower valve inside the wall. The bad diverter is usually a symptom. Great instructional video!
Teflon tape OR pipe dope, not both…
Fill the pipe to wall joint with plumbers putty or caulking so the seal is invisible, rather than caulking the spout to wall joint which always degrades
Thank you for your comments.
tape and dope are fine, me and my pl;umber buddies argue about which goes first but absolutely nothing wrong with both. As a matter of fact if I have doubts or just dont want to take a chance I always do both. I put dope under tape most of the other plumbers I talk do put dope on tape. I prefer the aesthetics but I think its fine either way. Just dope or tape I prefer dope as its a liquid but again either is fine alone.
good vid. thank you.
Your welcome. Thanks for watching.
I took off my tub spout yesterday to change it with the one you took off the wall in your video. The big issue was attached to the back of the spout I removed was a 3/4 or 1" thread piece that screwed into the female fitting in the wall. Is therea copper male fitting I can use along with the right size 1/2" to solder on with out a problem, or better yet do you have a video showing me how? Thanks
I prefer the male adpt too. Always just under 4inches.
Put duct seal around the pipe at the tile.
From what I've seen in another video, I wonder if going back to a male adapter is a good idea. I have a situation here where the diverter is jammed. The other video suggested it's because of interaction between the copper fitting and the spout (not copper) which causes corrosion, the diverter jams and the spout seizes onto the copper making removal difficult.
Seeing you remove the spout with no tools suggests to me that I should use a similar spout to the one you removed (already have it) and find a way to remove the old spout leaving a pipe I can fit the new one onto. My case suggests I may be able to cut it off with a reciprocating saw and adjust the stub length with a tube cutter.
You could use a sharkbite fitting if you don't want to use solder.!
You have the voice of a surfer lol, nice vid
Thank you. Happy this could help.
question in regards to that unthreaded supply pipe. we just had our shower renovated. The supply that connects to our tub spout is a slip on, then we tighten down...but the opposite end that connects to the shower supply is not sealed not threaded. simply slides in an out of the shower supply. When we turn the tub on, the water is fine. when we hit the diverter, it causes water to spew from that back end of the tub supply pipe. Im assuming the plumbers / tile guys should have sealed that end in some way but didnt. no sealant, no plumbing tape nothing. whats the best way to seal that back side of the supply line? (we have a cut out behind the plumbing so i can reach in from behind and seal via plumbing tape/sealant if needed.
Sorry it took a minute to get back to you. It has been crazy here. So when you hit the diverter water comes out the back side of the spout? If so the o'ring that is supposed to seal that is not working it could have a knick or is kinked. I like to switch that to a thread spout if this is the case. you won't have that issue any more, Send me a couple of pictures on facebook or email if you like. Im happy to help.
I have a 33 year old Kohler tub spout which appears to be slip on but does not have a set screw. I can rotate the spout around once completely but I can't remove it. There is an opening where it seems a set screw can be accessed. Not sure what to do. Any tips appreciated.
Genius
What do I do if the copper line is bad? Do I have to break the tile or find access from behind?
LMao at the " tile guys" hole for the pipe
😂 I know.
I, also, like the idea of having the spout screw on, but the problem is, every time you replace the spout, it's probably going to have a different offset so you will need to redo the solder connection.
Poo Poo to the plumbing industry for not having a standard offset.
That is A good point. There should be a standard.
I guess it would be a good idea for home owner to buy a spare at the time it is replaced and just keep it in the bathroom or linen closet to be aware of it. Label what it's for and not to get rid of it.
Is it hard to use a mirror & just put in the new plastic & pull diverter piece?
Are you just trying to replace the washer on the diverter? It is not that bad.
The only thing I would have done different is I would have put some plumber’s putty into where the pipe comes out of the wall tile. Just an extra precaution to keep water from creeping into the wall. Water always finds a way in somehow. Otherwise a great job!
Also to keep roaches and other insects out., including small mice.
Original 1974 tub/shower with 3 handle (hot, diverter, and cold). Water still comes out diverter when turned to shower (not all but enough to know its too much).
I can't easily change my diverter because tub is original, 1-piece tub and wall surround (fiberglass I think). I'm *so scared* to break something when changing stuff.
Honestly - how hard is it to trim the holes SLIGHTLY larger to access the diverter to change stem and seat? When I did the handle stems I tried to change the seats but they were STUUUUUCK. Anything to get them loosened without breaking something?
Nice
thank you
House I was working on had pex for a spout nipple. No way to make that work, has to be replaced with copper or a brass nipple depending on what the new spout fits
i tried to screw one off once, but it was the slide on kind, and i was actually gauging a spiral around the copper
Yep that is the case a lot these days with all these print style spouts. You do have to be careful. Thank you.
"If they just would have gone with this, it would have solved alot of issues."
Think that through, brother. I am replacing one of these in my 60 year old house. Once those connectors her old and stuck, there is no way to get to them. There is also know way to tell whether or not they are stuck until it is too late.
I wound up spinning my copper pipe, thinking it was unscrewing when it wasn't, until it twisted in on itself and snapped off. Now I have to cut into that old mesh and concrete tile wall to expose enough of the pipe to repair it.
I'd take the "problems" of scratched copper piping any day over what I have to deal with now.
"Everything is lead free these days".... TY. This is why you should replace copper pipe with pex when possible. Its sad we still use metal for these things. There really needs to be a metal free alternative to bath spouts.
As an amateur DIY'er - is there a reason you wouldn't want to fill the hole in the tile where the pipe goes through? Some mildly expanding spray foam? Maybe keep pipes quieter - more critters out -
no it is a great idea. You can caulk it. It is a practice that I did not learn until the last couple years. I just caulk around the spout. But I do see the benefit of sealing it.
Two things; you only need flux on the pipe, not the fitting too. Another thing is when screwing in the spout, put your calking on the spout itself so it squishes against the wall. Wipe off the excess with your finger and a damp sponge.
I don’t know how I’ve never seen caulk put on the spout first, but I have not.
any chance you can talk about the mold problem
I did another video re caulking that tub. Their issue was a moisture problem. The exhaust fan had not been cleaned in like 30 years.
Brian I like the use of teflon around the threads but the teflon don recommends 50 wraps around the fitting
Lol! Do you think he has posted a guideline booklet on line for such practices? I would be interested in promoting it on the channel!
Wooooo!
Woooooo! Thank you for checking out the channel.
I got a PVC stub , I think they glued the faucet on and the set screw is super corroded. Have not fixed it yet .
Prolly would be a good vid. maybe one of these years. LOL
Oh wow! Yes that would make a good video.
Can you help us remove a tub spout that won't come off
Hit me up on Facebook. We can chat about it.
I would have done the same thing except I would not have caulked around it. You see the black on the caulk around the tub, that's why.
He did it right. Caulking doesn't mold with a little cleaning and you don't want water running down the wall and into the hole in the wall where the plumbing extrudes.
Why do they caulk the tub spout? Is that to keep water from getting IN from the shower?
From running down the wall going I. The hole.
That Danco sprout is notorious for restricting flow in some situations so even in the off position water eventually trickles out the shower head. I never use the Danco products they're garbage. Whenever you're done soldering clean the pipe off well because solder is an acid and it'll eventually cause corrosion. That little drip of solder you were worried about and commented on using the Jersey gloves and wiping it off. If you're a novice don't do that you'll end up moving the fitting while the solder's hot and you'll end up with a leak and have to do it all over again. Always leave a little spot at the bottom of the spout un-caulked so if water does leak it leaks out through the spot rather than behind the wall.
Thank you for all the tips. It is a bummer that danco is all the big box stores sell in store.
All the big stores carry Danco for a reason. They wouldn’t if it was junk
I once replaced a tub spout for someone and noticed it still dripped like in the video. I just found out that it is normal and it is in the plumber's code that 0.1gpm is acceptable for a tub spout within its life cycle.
QUICK TIP: Use your flux to clean the joint and get rid of any drips.
Totally can do this.
Someone once told me that flux should not be put on the inside of a copper pipe or fitting but rather only apply flux to the outside. Is this true or false?
Flux should be applied to the out side of the copper pipe and the inside of the fitting that is going onto the pipe. Flux should always be applied to both sides of copper being soldered together. I hope this helps.
Because flux remaining causes corrosion. Always wipe off the flux once soldered. FYI I only put solder on the outside.
What size is that fitting? You say it once I think in the video and nowhere else.
It is 1/2 iron pipe size.
Use sprinkler pvc preferred schedule 80 will work on boiling water it's better won't rust , copper is a think of the pass,
Interesting I’ve never though of sch 80 pvc in this situation.
I have a question I have a moen mattered fold that was put in some time way before I bought this house and that seems to be intact but when they put in the moan diverter I think it's what it's called The part that maneuvers between hot and cold on a single handled system It was in upside down so you're cold was you're left in your hut with your right. I had a leak and had a Palmer come to handle the leak in the pipe in the back which they did they cut out and put it in a patch and soldered in place all cooper They managed to damage what I'm calling the dimurder the regulator for the hot and cold turning left and right.
So they went and got a new one, charge me for it, Pulled out the old one noticed it was upside down Put in the new piece the correct way. So then it started leaking drip drip drip. At 1st a slow drip one drop every 10 minutes. I called them back they came back the next day and it was dripping one drop every 45 seconds. They said they did nothing wrong I said could it be a broken part they said maybe they wanna go to 2nd one and put what it did the same thing at the same rate approximately. So I went and got a 3rd one because they wouldn't go get 1. They put it in again in front of me and oh still after monitoring it for a week still dripping approximately the same rate. They told me contact Moen there's nothing they can do. I did moen said nothing should be wrong and they sent me a new part. Now I'm afraid to put it in because of the prior failures . The plumber won't come in and fix it. I can do this myself I've repaired other plumbing things but I'm concerned What if this doesn't stop the drip drip drip do you have any ideas?
I'm pretty handy I have fixed plumbing and carpentry and the dishwasher washing machine dryer vacuum cleaner you get the point. Though I'm not officially trained I am skilled. So if you know of anything or recommend a video please let me know I will study it and then attempt this. I can't believe the plumbers will not come in and fix this. Thanks.
Send me a picture of the valve you are working with if you can. Either email or Facebook. I would like to see it.
Sound to me like you're trying to replace the Moen 1225 control cartridge in your tub/shower valve, for the third time, because the first two new cartridges didn't solve the problem. I am a professional service plumber with over 25 yrs experience. Sounds to me like you are running into one of two possible problems. Problem 1: If you are using generic aftermarket replacement cartridges, like DanCo, half of the ones on the shelf at "The Depot", will leak brand new out of the box. Always use the Moen brand name replacement parts. It's quite possible your service technicians were buying the cheap ones, so your odds of success with the brand name replacement part, that came directly from Moen, might be better. Problem 2: If the faucet was leaking for a considerable amount of time, rather than repaired as soon as it started leaking, the water leaking by the rubber seals will literally carve out a chanel in the brass body of the valve, making it so the new cartridge no longer has a smooth surface to seal against, & the water continues to leak around the seal through the carved/etched channel in the brass. This makes the faucet virtually unrepairable. If this is your issue, you will need to replace the faucet. Always address dripping faucets in a timely manner to avoid permanent damage to the fixture. Hope this helps. Sorry to hear it sounds like you experienced some sub par service technicians.
P.S. On Moen faucets that use the 1225 single handle control cartridge: If you find that the Hot & Cold water are on the wrong sides after reassembling the faucet, you don't have to take the whole faucet apart again. Just take the handle & any handle adapters off. Rotate the brass shaft/spline of the control cartridge 180⁰ & reinstall the handle. Abracadabra, the Hot water is now back on the left side where it belongs. 😉
If you have a threaded-on spout (not a set-screw type) and then you have to use some force to spin the spout off counterclockwise, what happens when you hear *SNAP!* as the plumbing inside the wall breaks? Do I call a professional plumber at this point and get $1,000 out of the bank for the repair inside the wall?
Yeah that a crappy one. If there dry wall on the back side of the tile wall I would go through there to make the repair.
Install an access panel by cutting out drywall on the back of the fixture; and then use it to repair the plumbing ;)
Tube spout is cheap metal cuts real easy. I used to cut it off then you can trap the copper pipe ,so it won't break in the wall when spinning off the front .
What if the screw is on the top and the tub spout won’t unscrew?
Make it unscrew. Where there is a will there's a way.
You compromised the thread tape with sealant?
No. Tape then dope has been good to me for years.
@@ThatFixItGuy 👍nice then. Figured the sealant would just ball the tape up when you screw it on.
I can't find a male end that goes over 1/2" pipe. Why doesn't that fitting exist ?
You should have siliconed the hole. When these things leak water squirts through the hole into the wall and to the apartment ceiling below.
True. I hope it would fun out the bottom of the spout before getting back up in the wall.
What a pleasant looking fellow…..
Thank you for watching.
had to stuff bread in my pipe, shoulda seen it come out when i opened the tap. wham !
I like that .a unicorn job....I'll take that saying.
Use it bro. It’s nice when you get a win in the day!!
Rather than caulking to fixture to the wall, I would have put plumber's putty between the pipe and the tile- i.e., putty the hole, not caulk the fixture. Any water than runs between the tile and the fixture flows right out the slot on the bottom of the fixture.
Teflon tape OR pipe dope, you don't use both at the same time.
This is how I roll. It works for me.
What seals water from getting behind the spout and into the wall from showering?
The caulk around the outside of the spout. However, this looks tacky and is not very durable. I always caulk the pipe with silicone where it comes through the wall. That way water will never get behind the wall.
A bead of caulk around the back of tub spout . The way the up loader showed how to do it at the end of the tub spout installation.
This explains it... ruclips.net/video/mnh2hBUrO4I/видео.html
that black mold will absorb most of it...