I just installed one, took the cover plate and plunger off the jandy (only) check valve and replaced with the flow meter face plate and spring plunger. It works perfectly
You don’t have to attach the unions right next to the check valve as shown in this video. You can add them elsewhere in the system which will allow for partial disassembly so there’s enough slack to directly plumb in the flow meter. Best practice is to have unions on either side of each major component so it can be easily swapped out or removed for repair. Otherwise over time your system will get all chopped up and filled with couplers until there’s no room and you need to re-plumb the whole thing. Unions are 100% worth the cost and installation time
One helpful tip is to put the unions on when glueing the fitting. Sometimes if you get enough glue on the outer surface the union will suck air or leak water. Also make sure the union is tight when glueing.
Hey david why do maufactures like hayward or pentair use brass nuts or like the top of a starclear plus filter use brass instead of hard stainless steel for fastening the lid it seems like brass is a soft metal and shaves every time you use it
Two corrections should be made to the the assembly process in this video. 1) Two glue types are needed for this valve and union glue-up. The valve is CPVC and as such requires a "General Purpose" glue that specifically says it works with CPVC, not just a PVC glue. PVC primer is fine for CPVC though. The gray stuff used in the video is a heavy. high strength PVC glue. You should use the gray stuff for any PVC pipe 2" and greater in diameter. You really need to hold it place for the first 30 seconds after insertion and twist. It does take longer to dry before use. 2) The valve should be disassembled before applying primer and glue. Any spill over into the check valve will likely ruin the seal or flapper. Do it right. Do it once.
Hmm, so much for that. Everyone recommends Oatley All-Purpose but right on Oatley's site they state here: www.oatey.com/PlasticPipeCement they state "Can I use All Purpose Cement to join PVC to CPVC? No. It is not recommended because it takes longer for CPVC to finish the curing process necessary to complete a strong bond after the cement is applied. CPVC is also rated for hot water use which will affect cure times. PVC is not rated for hot water temperatures."
Just a heads up, this adds a lot of relative dynamic head to your installation if your system is designed for low head loss(eg. energy efficient). The official specs are: Head Loss (Model FV-C) 0.77 psi at 20 GPM, 2.37 psi at 112.6 GPM.
This valve is CPVC not PVC (stamped on it). I confirmed on the H2Flow engineering data sheet for this model (FV-C 2"/2.5"). Their larger models are PVC. How do I glue it to PVC pipe? I'm confused by your correction that says to use two different glues, but then you say use the "gray stuff." The Weld On glue you used specifically says NOT for pressure applications and doesn't say works for PVC to CPVC. Any help would be appreciated.
SPL, I have a question: My space is very limited (short runs) no run long enough for unions and actually none long enough for sleeves. Can I cut out the 4.5" needed and pull the pipes to the side enough to plumb directly to FV? It's 1-1/2" I know it will be a 1 shot deal and no dry fit
@@franciscoguzman4318 They look like this - no direct link - I bet Home Depot carries it. www.supplyhouse.com/Spears-8057-015C-1-1-2-CPVC-Schedule-80-FKM-Union-2000-Socket-x-Socket?gclid=CjwKCAjw4MP5BRBtEiwASfwAL1Tqh1TEl16VfbQoO7wk0h-UCAMUSqADyNO4tRMhFV0sCUjYZfqW_hoCaxkQAvD_BwE
If I have an in-floor cleaning system and I lower my rpm but extend the run time, would I need to run the floor system for the new extended run time? Or would I just run it the 4 hours I do now?
To get the most efficient circulation and filtration form your VS pool you will need to keep the 4 hours of higher flow that permits the pop-up system to activate as well as adding longer periods of low flow for circulation alone
That is the Klorkinator by Multi-Tork. I believe only one supplier carries it right now. Very handy tool. I've got a complete video on it: KLORKINATOR. Klick. Twist. Done. - Lid & Cover Removal Tool: ruclips.net/video/esP1CrYvRNE/видео.html I use it all the time and love it. Call this number to order it: (800) 683-4500 or visit their website and send them a message - I think it is multitork.com. It just came out a couple of months ago. SCP doesn't stock it yet.
Not sure exactly for your pool -each pool is slightly different. The way you calculate it is by the pool volume - how many gallons divided by the flow GPM. That will tell you how long to run your filter each day.
One pool volume of filtration only treats about 64% of the water. The standard is to allow for THREE volumes each day which treats 95% of the water. This ratio applies equally to any size pool
MrLito010 So far it is made for the US Market mainly. It is a good idea for a version in Liters and I will bring that up to them. So you will just need to do some math- Google search engine has a built in conversion so 60 gallons per minute would be 227 Liters per minute.
Hi, thanks for your prompt answer. My pool will have a volume of approx. 110m³ ( 29100 gallons ) and the turn over time ( with a solar powered pump ) should be about 5 hours, means a pump capacity of 97 GPM ( 367 Liters per minute ). Where should I install the flowmeter, right after the filter ?
MrLito010 I like installing them after the filter and heater but there isn't a huge difference in the reading. I tested two at once in different locations and the readings were pretty close in both. Wherever there is a length of PVC pipe is where I would put it.
Allows one to measure how many gallons per minute of water passing through the system at a given pump motor RPM. It’s the only accurate means to adjust pump speed in insure adequate circulation time
Thanks for all the info you bring us through videos.. Flowvis has a 2" flow meter with unions, any reason not to just buy the one with unions?
Didn't have that option when I filmed this. So the union version is what I would buy
Your video saved me $700. Thank you very much. I used your method and everything worked out great!
I just installed one, took the cover plate and plunger off the jandy (only) check valve and replaced with the flow meter face plate and spring plunger. It works perfectly
You don’t have to attach the unions right next to the check valve as shown in this video. You can add them elsewhere in the system which will allow for partial disassembly so there’s enough slack to directly plumb in the flow meter. Best practice is to have unions on either side of each major component so it can be easily swapped out or removed for repair. Otherwise over time your system will get all chopped up and filled with couplers until there’s no room and you need to re-plumb the whole thing. Unions are 100% worth the cost and installation time
One helpful tip is to put the unions on when glueing the fitting. Sometimes if you get enough glue on the outer surface the union will suck air or leak water. Also make sure the union is tight when glueing.
Do I need a certain length of pipe before and after valve
Not really but the longer distance before an elbow the better.
Your videos are awesome! Thanks for doing all these, they are very helpful.
I know Im pretty off topic but does anyone know a good site to stream newly released tv shows online?
@Ryker Jesiah Flixportal
@Watson Elijah thank you, I signed up and it seems to work :D I appreciate it !
@Ryker Jesiah happy to help :D
Hey david why do maufactures like hayward or pentair use brass nuts or like the top of a starclear plus filter use brass instead of hard stainless steel for fastening the lid it seems like brass is a soft metal and shaves every time you use it
Two corrections should be made to the the assembly process in this video.
1) Two glue types are needed for this valve and union glue-up. The valve is CPVC and as such requires a "General Purpose" glue that specifically says it works with CPVC, not just a PVC glue. PVC primer is fine for CPVC though. The gray stuff used in the video is a heavy. high strength PVC glue. You should use the gray stuff for any PVC pipe 2" and greater in diameter. You really need to hold it place for the first 30 seconds after insertion and twist. It does take longer to dry before use.
2) The valve should be disassembled before applying primer and glue. Any spill over into the check valve will likely ruin the seal or flapper.
Do it right. Do it once.
Thanks very much Steve, just caught this thanks to your post. Was about to use the wrong cement.
Hmm, so much for that. Everyone recommends Oatley All-Purpose but right on Oatley's site they state here: www.oatey.com/PlasticPipeCement they state "Can I use All Purpose Cement to join PVC to CPVC?
No. It is not recommended because it takes longer for CPVC to finish the curing process necessary to complete a strong bond after the cement is applied. CPVC is also rated for hot water use which will affect cure times. PVC is not rated for hot water temperatures."
I was only able to find one Cement that is "also certified for transitions to PVC". It is IPEX "System 636 Transition Cement / CPVC CEMENT".
Glad to help. Weldon makes a CPVC cement.
So just use CPVC primer and glue. Disassemble the valve prior to gluing. Thanks
That pipes looks like houston tx freeways
Just a heads up, this adds a lot of relative dynamic head to your installation if your system is designed for low head loss(eg. energy efficient). The official specs are:
Head Loss (Model FV-C) 0.77 psi at 20 GPM, 2.37 psi at 112.6 GPM.
Hey bro do you have a video on how to paint The pool pipes. ?
Not at the moment, but I use spray paint.
This valve is CPVC not PVC (stamped on it). I confirmed on the H2Flow engineering data sheet for this model (FV-C 2"/2.5"). Their larger models are PVC. How do I glue it to PVC pipe? I'm confused by your correction that says to use two different glues, but then you say use the "gray stuff." The Weld On glue you used specifically says NOT for pressure applications and doesn't say works for PVC to CPVC. Any help would be appreciated.
West coast must charge by the pipe fitting. Equipment pads look like spaghetti.
Funny. We have zero room over here. Never seen a pump yet with 10 inches of straight pipe in front of it...😜👍
SPL, I have a question: My space is very limited (short runs) no run long enough for unions and actually none long enough for sleeves. Can I cut out the 4.5" needed and pull the pipes to the side enough to plumb directly to FV? It's 1-1/2" I know it will be a 1 shot deal and no dry fit
You can plumb it directly in.
as always ... you the man
Hi David what connections do you recommend I will be adding this after my water heater is yhere hi temp unions?
Standard unions are fine. But they do sell CPVC unions as well which are a little better under heat.
@@SPL thank you so much do you have a link
@@franciscoguzman4318 They look like this - no direct link - I bet Home Depot carries it. www.supplyhouse.com/Spears-8057-015C-1-1-2-CPVC-Schedule-80-FKM-Union-2000-Socket-x-Socket?gclid=CjwKCAjw4MP5BRBtEiwASfwAL1Tqh1TEl16VfbQoO7wk0h-UCAMUSqADyNO4tRMhFV0sCUjYZfqW_hoCaxkQAvD_BwE
@@SPL thank you sir I appreciate it so much
If I have an in-floor cleaning system and I lower my rpm but extend the run time, would I need to run the floor system for the new extended run time? Or would I just run it the 4 hours I do now?
You should be fine. If the pool looks dirtier than usual you can up the run time.
To get the most efficient circulation and filtration form your VS pool you will need to keep the 4 hours of higher flow that permits the pop-up system to activate as well as adding longer periods of low flow for circulation alone
Wondering what the cost if it is.
$85 on Amazon
In Sept 2022 the Vis-Flo now costs $170 and the unions are $20 each. Damn
What tool was that you used on the rainbow 300 to remove the top i have account and it will not come off.
That is the Klorkinator by Multi-Tork. I believe only one supplier carries it right now. Very handy tool. I've got a complete video on it: KLORKINATOR. Klick. Twist. Done. - Lid & Cover Removal Tool: ruclips.net/video/esP1CrYvRNE/видео.html
I use it all the time and love it. Call this number to order it: (800) 683-4500 or visit their website and send them a message - I think it is multitork.com. It just came out a couple of months ago. SCP doesn't stock it yet.
Hi, how many pool volumes as a minimum is required to pass the filter in 24 hours?
Not sure exactly for your pool -each pool is slightly different. The way you calculate it is by the pool volume - how many gallons divided by the flow GPM. That will tell you how long to run your filter each day.
One pool volume of filtration only treats about 64% of the water. The standard is to allow for THREE volumes each day which treats 95% of the water. This ratio applies equally to any size pool
wow, i was cringing at the messy glue job , but nice work other than that ,,,
Spray paint hid any extra glue
Hi, is the measurement only in GPM or also in liters per minute ?
MrLito010 So far it is made for the US Market mainly. It is a good idea for a version in Liters and I will bring that up to them. So you will just need to do some math- Google search engine has a built in conversion so 60 gallons per minute would be 227 Liters per minute.
Hi, thanks for your prompt answer. My pool will have a volume of approx. 110m³ ( 29100 gallons ) and the turn over time ( with a solar powered pump ) should be about 5 hours, means a pump capacity of 97 GPM ( 367 Liters per minute ). Where should I install the flowmeter, right after the filter ?
MrLito010 I like installing them after the filter and heater but there isn't a huge difference in the reading. I tested two at once in different locations and the readings were pretty close in both. Wherever there is a length of PVC pipe is where I would put it.
Question - Only place I have room to install is from filter discharge to salt system. is that ok? i.imgur.com/0uvrPdeh.jpg
Yes, that will work fine.
Great thanks can you post a link where to get one.
Try Amazon: www.swimmingpoollearning.com/flowvis-flow-meter
what is that for????
Allows one to measure how many gallons per minute of water passing through the system at a given pump motor RPM. It’s the only accurate means to adjust pump speed in insure adequate circulation time