I just dremeled a flat screwdriver (flat bit also fine) to get them plugs out. Used a couple of old stainless steel derailleur high/low adjustment screws, there perfect fit. Looks exactly like the XT ones. I did this on SLX M7100.
It must have cost Shimano more to manufacture the blanking screw for the slx than it does to produce the regular screw for the xt... Makes you wonder why they do it!
Fianally decided to try the free stroke adjustment on my M7000 lever after a lot of reports it isn't an effective function. Bought u6 and u4 spanner head bits and the u4 fitted perfectly so didn't need to file a u6 to fit. The bolt I used was out of a spare bar grip locking collar, which is a (3mm thread diameter),14mm long and screws in enough for full adjustment with about 1mm of exposed thread. Going a step further and replacing the current (3mm diameter threads, not M4?) with M3x12mm grub screws so I don't have a bolt head showing. Thanks for the clip to convince me to do it and yes it works. Glad that I have the least amount of lever travel possible now. From SLX's to XT's for £3.50 in total, great! 😎👍
Thanks for your comment, yes it does work 👍 confused about you using m3 though, its definitely m4, do the screws feel loose at all? There's should be no movement in the screw when fitted.
@@trickyrickymtb5622 Confused too Pal.🤔 Tried a 4mm bolt using 4mm Allen key, didn't fit in the hole. Used a 3mm bolt (3mm Allen key) and it is a perfect fit. Maybe the size of the Allen key fitting isn't the same as the thread diameter? Waiting on delivery of 3M (thread dia) x0.5 (standard thread pitch)x12mm (length) grub screws with a 1.5mm Allen key fitting so suppose I'll find out for sure?🤞
@@mtb4679 yes that probably explains it, mine is 3mm Allen key, but the thread outter diameter is 4mm. This is usually referred to as an m4 thread. Glad the vid helped
@@trickyrickymtb5622 Thanks for the reply. The main thing is it works, didn't like the longer and uneven lever travel before. Now it's where I want it and can set for front and rear to be equal too, cheers!🍻
Confirmed today. Spare bolt had 3mm Allen key but must be 4mm thread. M3 grub screws too small so ordered some M4,s. Every day is a school day. Thanks for the correspondence.
I would use a screw as close to the look of the XT one as possible. But a nice feature to have at no extra cost. I can see why people mix and match components considerable savings can be had with no performance lost with the right mix of components. XTR bearing jockey wheels can be used on the M6100 derailleur as a bit of a hack. 😎👍
What length grub screw did you go for? Ive looked and I can get an M4 in black but need to know the length otherwise i might order one that’s too long or short! Cheers, James
Late to the party but I’ll mention this since nobody else has.. the reason you can’t get the screw in any further is because there is a piece inside that will fall out of place once the screw is fully removed. The only way to properly re-insert any screw is to lift that piece into position while turning the screw in and this can’t be done without taking the brake lever apart fully. People are ruining their brakes by turning the newly inserted screw too far because it’s wedging up against a part that it should be passing underneath.
On five sets of brakes where I have done this, only one lever had this issue. The way to avoid it is to fully extend the reach adjust prior to removing the original screw. This does work.
Not a single problem, because it is not working hahah :D :D Just tear down your brake and see what you actually did :D Spoiler: You just filed the metal next to the brake cyclinder :D Unfortunately, you need extra part for it to push brake piston in to the cyclinder :) I am working on it to draw a STL file. If i complete, i will update this comment.
@@yusufunlu3530 any update about this sort of blueprint draw of the SLX cylinder vs the XT and the lack of the parts for "free stroke" to work properly?
I guess im asking randomly but does someone know a tool to log back into an Instagram account?? I was dumb forgot my login password. I would appreciate any tips you can offer me
@Sutton Kenzo Thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site on google and Im in the hacking process atm. Seems to take quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Works slightly. I only got about 10mm of lever travel before turning the bolt got harder (and I decided not to go further). Actually, I didn't see much difference to the hand ajustable srew around the other side of the brake lever mechanism. Oh well, worth a shot.
I was thinking the same and found your video! Great info. I can get the original XT screw - Q. do you need the washer? Tempted just use a Hex screws. Thanks.
What happens when you break the mechanism? I have the screw all the way in and I didn't really notice the adjustment. I did hear what may have been plastic breaking, but it really didn't take much pressure at all for that to happen. Did I just lose the ability to adjust or something worse?
I tried your hack with a M4 12mm screw that I paid 50 cent at a hardware store near home. I don't think that anyone is supposed to insert a screw more than 10mm in, because past that point you risk breaking the mechanism. The fact that the Shimano XT brake has a 10mm and the same exact structure (correct me if I'm wrong), is a pretty big tell imo. I think that the your hack should only be used for people that want to have MORE free stroke. I watched some other disassembly videos and I think my theory is correct. I can even see the stock screw pushing the piston, it seems all the way, with a plastic thing. I decided to revert back to the stock screw because I like the minimum free stroke and I don't want to risk breaking the lever while trying to reach the maximum point with a longer screw. On that note, do you know we can buy the replacement plastic part that is pushed by the screw, in the case it gets broken? The replacement is fairly easy.
I don't agree with your assessment of the screw 'increasing' the free stroke. I've done this on several sets and achieved a shorter stroke each time. You need to adjust the reach to its most open position before adjusting the throw. Also pulling the lever in a touch whilst adjusting the throw helps avoid damaging the mechanism. You are right in that the mechanism is fragile, so care is needed.
omg. This is amazing. Just got SLX's on a new bike and really annoyed with how much distance in the action. Definitely going to try this. What grub screws should I be looking for? Bit confuses with all the M4, or 3mm, and overal length chat. Any clarification greatly appreciated.
Ha! I noticed this on my SLX brakes but the XT brakes has a screw but its all the way in. I have XT rear and SLX front as the vendor sent me the XT upgrades for free. I'll try out the scree as I do not like the long dead space although I have become use to it.
Hopefully you can try SLX lever m665 paired with BH59 non series shimano hose. I noticed they have the same specs so might as well give it a try i was thinking it will work. Thanks for your video sir!
Thanks for the awesome jack mate! For some reason I can’t seem to find that U bit/U Spanner here in Australia. Is there perhaps a different name you may know of? I’ve also tried Snake eye screwdriver
Hi, not sure of any other name, but here is a link to some on Amazon this should help you source some..www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01G9BYG6W/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_RdHBFb9QZ1ZHW
trickyricky MTB thank mate! Ended up finding some on EBay that I ordered. Was hoping to find some at my local hardware franchise so I wouldn’t have to wait for post from China but nothing comes up in the search. Oh well, I’ll just have to be patient
I think I have some of those so will go try this. I never would've even thought of it since I saw something when I was buying said it didn't have this adjustment so I dropped the whole idea. But I hate all that sloppy travel. I was actually just looking for best brake fluid for the SLX glad and I got lucky! Thanks! BTW any preference on brake fluid? 🙂 Later on: I loosened the 2-hole safety screw with an awl and hammer and then a pair of tweezers got it the rest of the way out. I did have some Headless 4m-0.7 x 12 set screws, usable with a 2mm Allen wrench. This was perfect! It went unseen down inside the screw hole and I lost some slop, such a cool hack!
To be honest, I still have the shimano mineral oil that came with my bleed kit. Never had a set of shimano brakes go off on me so only ever lever bleed if/when I change a lever.
Would altering the free throw make.my braking not a sharp jusy got a used set of m7000 witb new pads and disc fitted them bled them and nearly went otb the lack of modulation its like on and off thanks
I did this and it definitely does work. I think people just don’t understand how it works or have bled the brakes w/o the screw and lever all the way out. I overnighted the screw on my front brake and definitely broke something, little piece of plastic fell out. Funny part is, I do still get *some* adjustment, just not the same as the rear. Anyone have any clue where to get the “free stroke adjuster”, as I’ve seen it referred to in some rebuilding videos? Been looking at “parts only” levers on eBay, but none that are much cheaper than just buying a new one.
The blanking screw does have some effect, so will appear to release some throw, but being shorter doesn't provide as much adjustment as the replacement m4 cap screw.
Now the screw isn't really properly thightened. Doesn't it getting rattled out when you shred down the trail? Anyway, this hack is pure gold, thx. I love my new Scott Genius 920, but the free throw was driving me crazy.
Hi, you should be able to slightly nip the screw just enough to hold it secure. Just dont over tighten it, as the mechanism is quite fragile. If you nip it slowly you can get a feel of how tight it needs to be. Mine haven't rattled loose so far 👍
These are what I ordered www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Broppe-5pcs-50mm-U-Shape-Spanner-Screwdriver-Bits-Magnetic-Bits-Tool-1-4-/224075824997?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292 As for the screws, just search for titanium m4 bolt/screw/grubscrew. There are hundreds of options in ebay.
Well, did it an i didn't see or felt any change. Lever moved but to the same position and the same contact point. In general, to remove a screw and fit new one with the same length to the same position, what can be changed? On the XT this is an adjustable screw, here, what the use? Do i miss something here?
Did ypu extend the lever adjust all the way out before installing the new screws, and did you slightly hold the lever in a touch when doing it? Also what length screw did you use?
@@TomerGur it's discussed in the comments, bit fully extend the reach adjust and before fully screwing g in the new screw, very slightly pull the lever, literally the tiniest bit. Sometimes the screw can snag on a plastic part in the mechanism, this helps to line things up.
@@trickyrickymtb5622 Hi, did what you say and nothing happened... The fill and contact point are the same. I must be doing something wrong... Don't know what...
@@trickyrickymtb5622 I get it, just a feeling thing, I like my brakes the way they are. Isn't it dangerous if they bite right from the start of travel. I bet people like it because their brakes aren't bled right so the lever goes way too deep and hits their fingers.
@@FirefighterBobby The bleed might well be an issue, but all high end brakes have free throw adjustment, this just allows you to dial the brakes in, if you like the lever to bite earlier. But hey, if your brakes feel good, I agree don't touch them, that's what it's all about 👍
@@trickyrickymtb5622 Bleeding slx front brake & f/r Zees right now. Getting them ready for the season. Took em appart, every single piece. Such pleasure, but not for everyone, just putting new oil doesn't do it for me, theres dirt inside. Thank you for your time btw.
@@FirefighterBobby you are obviously an inexperienced rider to make such comments. Contact point to bite point adjusting is common on higher end brakes like SRAM Guide RSC - Code RSC or Hope Brakes
I made the mistake of buying the OE Shimano XT screws... Complete waste. They are the same length so there is no additional adjustments over using the existing SLX bolt. Also the XT ones were gobbed with so much solid loc tire that it was really hard to screw it in there and I partially stripped the Phillips head
@@trickyrickymtb5622 I suppose the answer then might be to use a 10 mm m4 screw so less is sticking out? Nice hack though. I have the exact same problem on my new bike and the dead space in the brake action is unbearable. I'll probably be using your technique. Thanks!
Can't you just tighten the "U" bolt that comes with the brake? I wouldn't mind doing it at home instead of changing the bolt to a more common one, as the "U" bolt looks more aesthetically pleasing
The brake comes with the u bolt fully tightened and provides no further adjustment. It does actually pull the lever in very slightly, as you will see when removing it, but is too short to provide full adjustment.
@@shwndh I personally think it looks a lot better than the cross head screw that you get with the XT brake. Also it does look better with a gun metal titanium bolt, but ultimately if your happy with them dont do the hack.
this is an old well known hack, but if you already have a snake eye screwdriver, there is absolutely no need to replace the screw with a phillips or allan one. I mean you already have the right tool, why change the screw for?
Hi, because the existing screw doesn't have as much adjustment and although I'd seen this on some forums, I couldn't find any videos on youtube showing how to do it. Hopefully its helped some people even if not everyone wants to do it.
@@trickyrickymtb5622 hello. It is on mtbr.com in fact there are 3 or 4 threads about this. The M4 bolt is 10mm in lenght and i have found that it is just the correct length , so you won't break the plastic lever the is pushed by the screw. if you try an M4 12mm you most likely to break the adjustment. I 've seen many people making that mistake. They believe that the bolt is to short to offer any significant regulation .i assure you that the existing bolt is long enough to do the job but you also have to remember, that free strroke requires 2 adjustments to feel the difference . first screw in the free stroke screw, (you'll see the the lever starts to approach the handlebar) and last you readjust the reach screw. then you'll have the whole picture of this bite point adjust.
@@user-du6op6qx5s I do agree that the u-bolt offers adjustment, but I've tested the adjustment (by feel) and I think there is more adjustment with the longer bolts. Plus better to have 'on the fly' adjustment with a multi-tool IMO. Either way the video is there for anyone that feels they can get more adjustment by performing the hack. For info, I haven't damaged the plastic/mechanism and I cover this in the video.ibwould add however that I've actually replaced the standard pads for thicker 'finned' pads and this made the lever feel more dialled than ever. I can highly recommend doing this if throw is a problem
@@trickyrickymtb5622 so, do you recommend the finned pads? did they make that big of a difference? did you find it more difficult to insert the wheel with the thicker pads?
@@user-du6op6qx5s they made a big difference in terms of lever throw, made the brakes feel very immediate. Had to do a minor adjustment to the caliper, but no issues. The pistons have settled a bit now and they feel bang on. I also like the fins as they seem like they would keep the dirt out a little better. And aside from the benefit of minimising overheating I Also I think they look cool 😁
Not a problem, this is more if you already have SLX. Plus the older models are getting more difficult to get hold of. Changing from M7000 to M8100 means replacing the the olive, barb and sleave, which also means trimming the hose slightly. But I get your point.
I bought a set of two security bits. One was a U6 (like the one that needed filing down in the clip) and a smaller U4 bit. The U4 was a perfect fit and no filing necessary.
New to bicycles, i currently have SLX hydr brakes on my fatbike, 2 piston one in the back, as a bit heavier rider i'd like to have some more biting power in the rear. Do you reckon if a change a 4 piston caliber i would achieve better braking force? Could i use the SLX brake lever with the 4 piston caliber? Do you know if the piston inside the lever assembly is same on SLX vs XT/XTR? As on my KTM motorbike, when i changed the 4 piston front caliber to a 6 piston caliber, i needed a bigger piston size lever assembly to push the appropriate amount of fluid to properly engage the 6 pistons without the lever to hit the bar.
Hi, the Deore, SLX, XT and XTR brakes share the same tech. The material and feature sets differ, but they are interchangeable. Be sure to make surebyou get the same family tho, as there can be compatibility issues when mixing the old and new gen systems. For example the 2 pot SLX (m7000) may not play nice with the 4 pot SLX m7100. Hooe that helps.
I just dremeled a flat screwdriver (flat bit also fine) to get them plugs out.
Used a couple of old stainless steel derailleur high/low adjustment screws, there perfect fit. Looks exactly like the XT ones.
I did this on SLX M7100.
Did the same on my zee brakes
It must have cost Shimano more to manufacture the blanking screw for the slx than it does to produce the regular screw for the xt... Makes you wonder why they do it!
Artificial product differentiation
I find the stock screw works a little about 1/2 , a longer one or the XT one makes it all the way . It’s a nice little adjustment
Mind showing that on a vid please!?
How Long the Screws are ?
Fianally decided to try the free stroke adjustment on my M7000 lever after a lot of reports it isn't an effective function.
Bought u6 and u4 spanner head bits and the u4 fitted perfectly so didn't need to file a u6 to fit. The bolt I used was out of a spare bar grip locking collar, which is a (3mm thread diameter),14mm long and screws in enough for full adjustment with about 1mm of exposed thread.
Going a step further and replacing the current (3mm diameter threads, not M4?) with M3x12mm grub screws so I don't have a bolt head showing.
Thanks for the clip to convince me to do it and yes it works. Glad that I have the least amount of lever travel possible now. From SLX's to XT's for £3.50 in total, great! 😎👍
Thanks for your comment, yes it does work 👍 confused about you using m3 though, its definitely m4, do the screws feel loose at all? There's should be no movement in the screw when fitted.
@@trickyrickymtb5622 Confused too Pal.🤔 Tried a 4mm bolt using 4mm Allen key, didn't fit in the hole. Used a 3mm bolt (3mm Allen key) and it is a perfect fit. Maybe the size of the Allen key fitting isn't the same as the thread diameter? Waiting on delivery of 3M (thread dia) x0.5 (standard thread pitch)x12mm (length) grub screws with a 1.5mm Allen key fitting so suppose I'll find out for sure?🤞
@@mtb4679 yes that probably explains it, mine is 3mm Allen key, but the thread outter diameter is 4mm. This is usually referred to as an m4 thread. Glad the vid helped
@@trickyrickymtb5622 Thanks for the reply. The main thing is it works, didn't like the longer and uneven lever travel before. Now it's where I want it and can set for front and rear to be equal too, cheers!🍻
Confirmed today. Spare bolt had 3mm Allen key but must be 4mm thread. M3 grub screws too small so ordered some M4,s. Every day is a school day. Thanks for the correspondence.
Awesome!! You just made my day. Cheers from Illinois.
I would use a screw as close to the look of the XT one as possible.
But a nice feature to have at no extra cost.
I can see why people mix and match components considerable savings can be had with no performance lost with the right mix of components.
XTR bearing jockey wheels can be used on the M6100 derailleur as a bit of a hack.
😎👍
I actually ended up changing the bolts to titanium m4 hex grub screws. Much neater. 12mm length looks best.
Why you didn‘t the original lenght of the Screw?
Awesome hack thanks! Used a 4mm 'grub' screw for a cleaner look!
Your welcome, I've actually changed to grub screws aswell, I agree it does look much cleaner.
What length grub screw did you go for? Ive looked and I can get an M4 in black but need to know the length otherwise i might order one that’s too long or short!
Cheers,
James
Anyone know what length?
Late to the party but I’ll mention this since nobody else has.. the reason you can’t get the screw in any further is because there is a piece inside that will fall out of place once the screw is fully removed. The only way to properly re-insert any screw is to lift that piece into position while turning the screw in and this can’t be done without taking the brake lever apart fully. People are ruining their brakes by turning the newly inserted screw too far because it’s wedging up against a part that it should be passing underneath.
On five sets of brakes where I have done this, only one lever had this issue. The way to avoid it is to fully extend the reach adjust prior to removing the original screw. This does work.
@@trickyrickymtb5622 that’s good to know. I’ve been taking them apart. Thanks!
I am using same method since 2018, not a single problem. Nice video !
Not a single problem, because it is not working hahah :D :D Just tear down your brake and see what you actually did :D
Spoiler:
You just filed the metal next to the brake cyclinder :D Unfortunately, you need extra part for it to push brake piston in to the cyclinder :) I am working on it to draw a STL file. If i complete, i will update this comment.
@@yusufunlu3530 any update about this sort of blueprint draw of the SLX cylinder vs the XT and the lack of the parts for "free stroke" to work properly?
Circlip pliers for
The real hack here is improvising the tool bit. You wouldn't need to replace the standard plug once you have the proper bit.
The standard screw is inly 10mm long and doesn't fully adjust the reach, but if the range if adjustment was enough, then yes that is true
Will do this on my SLX-brakes soon.. Thanks!
Cheers from Norway
I guess im asking randomly but does someone know a tool to log back into an Instagram account??
I was dumb forgot my login password. I would appreciate any tips you can offer me
@Uriah Jeremiah instablaster :)
@Sutton Kenzo Thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site on google and Im in the hacking process atm.
Seems to take quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Sutton Kenzo It worked and I finally got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D
Thank you so much, you saved my account :D
@Uriah Jeremiah Glad I could help =)
Works slightly. I only got about 10mm of lever travel before turning the bolt got harder (and I decided not to go further). Actually, I didn't see much difference to the hand ajustable srew around the other side of the brake lever mechanism. Oh well, worth a shot.
Nice one! I’ve just installed the xt screws into my slx brakes levers.
Just done it on my Zee levers.
Works a treat 👍🏻
Nice one, I can also conform it work on the latest generation of m7100 SLX levers. Stated incorrectly in the vid that I believed it didn't
I was thinking the same and found your video! Great info. I can get the original XT screw - Q. do you need the washer? Tempted just use a Hex screws. Thanks.
any idea if this is similar for the new generation of slx brakes? BL-M7100 lever - in the picture it has the same 2 prong screw
I've set up the m7100 and yes this hack works
What happens when you break the mechanism? I have the screw all the way in and I didn't really notice the adjustment. I did hear what may have been plastic breaking, but it really didn't take much pressure at all for that to happen. Did I just lose the ability to adjust or something worse?
Same happened to me. Wish I never stumbled across this video. Brakes still work, but are no longer smooth like before.... super bummed.
Revisiting this. Any updates on this? Does breaking the mechanism make the lever feel restricted or spongy?
I tried your hack with a M4 12mm screw that I paid 50 cent at a hardware store near home.
I don't think that anyone is supposed to insert a screw more than 10mm in, because past that point you risk breaking the mechanism.
The fact that the Shimano XT brake has a 10mm and the same exact structure (correct me if I'm wrong), is a pretty big tell imo.
I think that the your hack should only be used for people that want to have MORE free stroke.
I watched some other disassembly videos and I think my theory is correct.
I can even see the stock screw pushing the piston, it seems all the way, with a plastic thing.
I decided to revert back to the stock screw because I like the minimum free stroke and I don't want to risk breaking the lever while trying to reach the maximum point with a longer screw.
On that note, do you know we can buy the replacement plastic part that is pushed by the screw, in the case it gets broken?
The replacement is fairly easy.
I don't agree with your assessment of the screw 'increasing' the free stroke. I've done this on several sets and achieved a shorter stroke each time. You need to adjust the reach to its most open position before adjusting the throw. Also pulling the lever in a touch whilst adjusting the throw helps avoid damaging the mechanism. You are right in that the mechanism is fragile, so care is needed.
Brilliant! Thanks mate.
omg. This is amazing. Just got SLX's on a new bike and really annoyed with how much distance in the action. Definitely going to try this. What grub screws should I be looking for? Bit confuses with all the M4, or 3mm, and overal length chat. Any clarification greatly appreciated.
M4 thread (4mm metric) I've started using 12mm long grub screws, looks neater.
Ha! I noticed this on my SLX brakes but the XT brakes has a screw but its all the way in. I have XT rear and SLX front as the vendor sent me the XT upgrades for free. I'll try out the scree as I do not like the long dead space although I have become use to it.
On the M7100 SLX brakes, the M8000 XT free stroke screw is available for purchase. Shimano Y8VC98070
Someone mentioned in the comments that the screw is the same length as the ones he removed, so it doesn't work.
I didn’t feel any resistance in my right lever. Screws going very deep now. Doe this mean I damaged my lever?
Hopefully you can try SLX lever m665 paired with BH59 non series shimano hose. I noticed they have the same specs so might as well give it a try i was thinking it will work. Thanks for your video sir!
If it has the same internal mechanism, no reason it wouldn't work. The housing shouldn't make a difference.
I have the m7100 lever with mu m315 caliper. Works like a charm and they feel more powerful
Thanks for the awesome jack mate! For some reason I can’t seem to find that U bit/U Spanner here in Australia. Is there perhaps a different name you may know of? I’ve also tried Snake eye screwdriver
Hi, not sure of any other name, but here is a link to some on Amazon this should help you source some..www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01G9BYG6W/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_RdHBFb9QZ1ZHW
trickyricky MTB thank mate! Ended up finding some on EBay that I ordered. Was hoping to find some at my local hardware franchise so I wouldn’t have to wait for post from China but nothing comes up in the search. Oh well, I’ll just have to be patient
snake eye bit
Beautiful for me cos I want replace M 445 with SLX M 7100 😇
did this a year ago..does work
I think I have some of those so will go try this. I never would've even thought of it since I saw something when I was buying said it didn't have this adjustment so I dropped the whole idea. But I hate all that sloppy travel. I was actually just looking for best brake fluid for the SLX glad and I got lucky! Thanks! BTW any preference on brake fluid? 🙂
Later on: I loosened the 2-hole safety screw with an awl and hammer and then a pair of tweezers got it the rest of the way out. I did have some Headless 4m-0.7 x 12 set screws, usable with a 2mm Allen wrench. This was perfect! It went unseen down inside the screw hole and I lost some slop, such a cool hack!
To be honest, I still have the shimano mineral oil that came with my bleed kit. Never had a set of shimano brakes go off on me so only ever lever bleed if/when I change a lever.
Would altering the free throw make.my braking not a sharp jusy got a used set of m7000 witb new pads and disc fitted them bled them and nearly went otb the lack of modulation its like on and off thanks
Part Nr. Y8VC98070
Shimano Deore XT BL-M8000 Stroke Adjust Screw & Shim 0.3mm
I did this and it definitely does work. I think people just don’t understand how it works or have bled the brakes w/o the screw and lever all the way out. I overnighted the screw on my front brake and definitely broke something, little piece of plastic fell out. Funny part is, I do still get *some* adjustment, just not the same as the rear. Anyone have any clue where to get the “free stroke adjuster”, as I’ve seen it referred to in some rebuilding videos? Been looking at “parts only” levers on eBay, but none that are much cheaper than just buying a new one.
Can i do this on shimano zee levers?
1:12 What is the name of this key ?
Just put some m4 black grub screws in to keep it tidy
with the blank in does it have any effect on free throw. When you back the blank out does the hand lever move out as well? Ty for your time!
The blanking screw does have some effect, so will appear to release some throw, but being shorter doesn't provide as much adjustment as the replacement m4 cap screw.
@@trickyrickymtb5622 TY for answer.
Thanks dude
I’m wondering if it would also work in the m7100 brakes
I can confirm it does. I've done it 👍
Is it possible to replace the lids of M7100 into M675?
how long that screw should be?
Done!!!! Thank you brother 👍
So the screw size is M4*12?
Anyone tried this before, or have any other hacks?
Now the screw isn't really properly thightened. Doesn't it getting rattled out when you shred down the trail? Anyway, this hack is pure gold, thx. I love my new Scott Genius 920, but the free throw was driving me crazy.
Hi, you should be able to slightly nip the screw just enough to hold it secure. Just dont over tighten it, as the mechanism is quite fragile. If you nip it slowly you can get a feel of how tight it needs to be. Mine haven't rattled loose so far 👍
If I was doing this I'd put an M4 nut and washer under the head of the bolt to prevent me screwing it in too far.
Beautiful
More like making the starting point closer to the bite point, cause the bite point doesn’t change position sadly
That's the whole point, shortening the biting point means less travel of the lever before it bites. That's how shimano levers are designed.
Love it!
Nice job
how long are the m4 screws that you replace the cap screws with?
@@derekcraig3617 12mm, actually use m4x12 titanium grub screws now. Look better.
can you give me the links where you buyed those screws and bits?
These are what I ordered www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Broppe-5pcs-50mm-U-Shape-Spanner-Screwdriver-Bits-Magnetic-Bits-Tool-1-4-/224075824997?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292 As for the screws, just search for titanium m4 bolt/screw/grubscrew. There are hundreds of options in ebay.
@@trickyrickymtb5622 thanks
How long were the M4 screws that you installed?
15mm, but I'm now using 12mm m4 grub screws
Well, did it an i didn't see or felt any change. Lever moved but to the same position and the same contact point.
In general, to remove a screw and fit new one with the same length to the same position, what can be changed?
On the XT this is an adjustable screw, here, what the use?
Do i miss something here?
Did ypu extend the lever adjust all the way out before installing the new screws, and did you slightly hold the lever in a touch when doing it? Also what length screw did you use?
@@trickyrickymtb5622 No. It doesn't show in the Vid'.
Can you explain the steps?
@@TomerGur it's discussed in the comments, bit fully extend the reach adjust and before fully screwing g in the new screw, very slightly pull the lever, literally the tiniest bit. Sometimes the screw can snag on a plastic part in the mechanism, this helps to line things up.
@@trickyrickymtb5622 Hi, did what you say and nothing happened...
The fill and contact point are the same.
I must be doing something wrong... Don't know what...
@@TomerGur what length screw are you using?
Does it really work? Need to be titianiaum for any reason?
Yes it works. Nice hack thanks cause I was sick of the lever coming all the way to handlebar
Would 10 mm length be ok? Or is just the 12 one good?
I just ordered 15mm
This screw just holds the piston holder, what are the gainings of this beside servicing?
The screw adjusts the lever throw
@@trickyrickymtb5622 I get it, just a feeling thing, I like my brakes the way they are. Isn't it dangerous if they bite right from the start of travel. I bet people like it because their brakes aren't bled right so the lever goes way too deep and hits their fingers.
@@FirefighterBobby The bleed might well be an issue, but all high end brakes have free throw adjustment, this just allows you to dial the brakes in, if you like the lever to bite earlier. But hey, if your brakes feel good, I agree don't touch them, that's what it's all about 👍
@@trickyrickymtb5622 Bleeding slx front brake & f/r Zees right now. Getting them ready for the season. Took em appart, every single piece. Such pleasure, but not for everyone, just putting new oil doesn't do it for me, theres dirt inside. Thank you for your time btw.
@@FirefighterBobby you are obviously an inexperienced rider to make such comments. Contact point to bite point adjusting is common on higher end brakes like SRAM Guide RSC - Code RSC or Hope Brakes
Anybody know if the pivot point bushing can be replaced? Mine is shot. Otherwise can I replace my m7000 with new m7100 levers?
🤘🏼
Could you not use the same screws that are in the xt brakes
In theory, not 100% sure whether the thread is the same. However I think cross head screw doesn't look great. I'd rather have an allen key bolt
I made the mistake of buying the OE Shimano XT screws... Complete waste. They are the same length so there is no additional adjustments over using the existing SLX bolt. Also the XT ones were gobbed with so much solid loc tire that it was really hard to screw it in there and I partially stripped the Phillips head
Great hack! Where can I find the titanium screws?
Ebay.. m4 titanium cap screw
trickyricky MTB thanks
trickyricky MTB what is the length of the screw that you used?
@@jarellano80 15mm
@@trickyrickymtb5622 I suppose the answer then might be to use a 10 mm m4 screw so less is sticking out? Nice hack though. I have the exact same problem on my new bike and the dead space in the brake action is unbearable. I'll probably be using your technique. Thanks!
Can't you just tighten the "U" bolt that comes with the brake? I wouldn't mind doing it at home instead of changing the bolt to a more common one, as the "U" bolt looks more aesthetically pleasing
The brake comes with the u bolt fully tightened and provides no further adjustment. It does actually pull the lever in very slightly, as you will see when removing it, but is too short to provide full adjustment.
In other words, this mode looks horrible! You'd never buy them looking like this.
@@shwndh I personally think it looks a lot better than the cross head screw that you get with the XT brake. Also it does look better with a gun metal titanium bolt, but ultimately if your happy with them dont do the hack.
Could you please provide me a link to the page Where will I buy these keys?
Known under numerous names (pig nose, snake bite, spanner bit, etc.) U4 or this No.4 is similar to the one I bought and fits perfectly. 😉
Good one 😉
this is an old well known hack, but if you already have a snake eye screwdriver, there is absolutely no need to replace the screw with a phillips or allan one. I mean you already have the right tool, why change the screw for?
Hi, because the existing screw doesn't have as much adjustment and although I'd seen this on some forums, I couldn't find any videos on youtube showing how to do it. Hopefully its helped some people even if not everyone wants to do it.
@@trickyrickymtb5622 hello. It is on mtbr.com in fact there are 3 or 4 threads about this. The M4 bolt is 10mm in lenght and i have found that it is just the correct length , so you won't break the plastic lever the is pushed by the screw. if you try an M4 12mm you most likely to break the adjustment. I 've seen many people making that mistake. They believe that the bolt is to short to offer any significant regulation .i assure you that the existing bolt is long enough to do the job but you also have to remember, that free strroke requires 2 adjustments to feel the difference . first screw in the free stroke screw, (you'll see the the lever starts to approach the handlebar) and last you readjust the reach screw. then you'll have the whole picture of this bite point adjust.
@@user-du6op6qx5s I do agree that the u-bolt offers adjustment, but I've tested the adjustment (by feel) and I think there is more adjustment with the longer bolts. Plus better to have 'on the fly' adjustment with a multi-tool IMO. Either way the video is there for anyone that feels they can get more adjustment by performing the hack. For info, I haven't damaged the plastic/mechanism and I cover this in the video.ibwould add however that I've actually replaced the standard pads for thicker 'finned' pads and this made the lever feel more dialled than ever. I can highly recommend doing this if throw is a problem
@@trickyrickymtb5622 so, do you recommend the finned pads? did they make that big of a difference? did you find it more difficult to insert the wheel with the thicker pads?
@@user-du6op6qx5s they made a big difference in terms of lever throw, made the brakes feel very immediate. Had to do a minor adjustment to the caliper, but no issues. The pistons have settled a bit now and they feel bang on. I also like the fins as they seem like they would keep the dirt out a little better. And aside from the benefit of minimising overheating I Also I think they look cool 😁
Problem: the XT brake levers are less then £10 more than the SLX levers.
Not a problem, this is more if you already have SLX. Plus the older models are getting more difficult to get hold of. Changing from M7000 to M8100 means replacing the the olive, barb and sleave, which also means trimming the hose slightly. But I get your point.
Will this work on Deore M6100 brakes?
theres no free stroke port on m6100 levers, so nope
You used a squeezed U6 bit, so the u5 is too small then? Don't wanna buy a whole set of those.
I bought a U6 and a U4 security bit (or also known as spanner bit). The U4 is the one that fitted perfectly. 😉
@@mtb4679 perfectly after filing it down or without even having to do this ?
I bought a set of two security bits. One was a U6 (like the one that needed filing down in the clip) and a smaller U4 bit. The U4 was a perfect fit and no filing necessary.
@@mtb4679 awesome. Thanks for this!
@@mtb4679 gotcha, cheers!
Would this work with a shimano zee lever too? think its m460. It looks like it should?
Not sure to be honest, haven't ever owned the Zee brake. Just remove the screw to see if if the lever moves, if it does, it should work
@@trickyrickymtb5622 magic thanks, I've bought the parts and will give it a bash
@@bipssy does it worked??
@@paalikafna5272 not really no. there was no real improvement
Can i use shorter bolt like 12mm?
12mm might not provide full adjustment, haven't tried it sorry. Another commenter on here used m4 x 12mm grub screws, I think that would work
Q. Do I need Loctite on this? Thnx!
No, you want to retain adjustment. Just some grease
What size of bolts did u used?
Hi, m4 x 15mm.
So m4 ×10 can fit?
Yes but that wouldn't provide any more adjustment to the u-bolt currently there. I would say you need 15mm
So i can get an adjustment with m4×12?
@@bikeward772 yes m4 x 12 would work fine, not sure you'll be able to buy 12mm long bolts, but if you find some, they would work well..
how long are those m4 cap screws?
Mine are 15mm. 12mm would perfect!
@@trickyrickymtb5622 thanks
does this work with the newer BL 7100 lever ? anyone tried?
Yes it does 👍
So shimano has a lazy naming scheme. Having both a reel and a bike named the same...
New to bicycles, i currently have SLX hydr brakes on my fatbike, 2 piston one in the back, as a bit heavier rider i'd like to have some more biting power in the rear. Do you reckon if a change a 4 piston caliber i would achieve better braking force? Could i use the SLX brake lever with the 4 piston caliber? Do you know if the piston inside the lever assembly is same on SLX vs XT/XTR? As on my KTM motorbike, when i changed the 4 piston front caliber to a 6 piston caliber, i needed a bigger piston size lever assembly to push the appropriate amount of fluid to properly engage the 6 pistons without the lever to hit the bar.
Hi, the Deore, SLX, XT and XTR brakes share the same tech. The material and feature sets differ, but they are interchangeable. Be sure to make surebyou get the same family tho, as there can be compatibility issues when mixing the old and new gen systems. For example the 2 pot SLX (m7000) may not play nice with the 4 pot SLX m7100. Hooe that helps.
You can use the screw that's already in there. ....
WHATA HACK!!, HE HAS CHANGED THE BOLTS. THE WORLD IS SHOCKED !!
Thanks for that pointless, sarcastic comment. Try n keep it constructive m8
I wonder what this kid has ever offered the world 😂😂 nothing but negative bullshit. It actually is a really useful video alot of people. You moron
I’ve tested the screws on ever Shimano brake I’ve owned and never once did they work.
ruclips.net/video/D0uSTtDWbI8/видео.html
What is the size of the titanium screws ?
M4 x 15mm, or you could get m4 x 12mm grub screws, as one of the commenters did
does it work with a M7120 lever too ?
Haven't tried it, so not sure. At the time of making the vid I didn't believe so, but I've since Done it on M7100, so don't see why it wouldn't.