Great video! Great explanation of how overly complicated the original system is due to the manufacturing process. Very trick stuff with making your own controllers!
Thanks 😊 it is both fascinating and frustrating to work with an old wiring harness. It's really very simple to understand, yet so complex to figure out 🥴 Almost done with the first prototype of the home made controller now, it actually works 🤓
@@kihestadhello there from Greece i have seen all of your videos and its all perfect... can you give me more information about the diy kit that you have make (code- parts -diagram) to make for my cb250n i know some things about Arduino because we have it on university but i don't know too much about the wiring of the motorcycle
You have no idea how blown away I am! For the past year I’ve set out to do the exact same thing from scratch with minimal starting knowledge. I’ve gotten so far with wiring and buttons as well as 3d modeling prototype parts, however the code is my struggle! I look forward to reading your code and modifying it for my own bike! 🎉 cheers on such a great make
Cool! I have had quite a long break from this project, but I am soon to start up again. I have a working prototype, but decided to upgrade some components and add even more features. I have also played around with the thought of replacing the monochrome OLED display with a circular color TFT display, and add sensors for speed and engine rpm. Then it could end up as a complete solution without need for a separate speedometer / odometer. Even fuel tank level indicator could be built in, the possibilities are endless 😊
@@kihestad I’m so impressed! I’ll be keeping it fairly simple since my ebike would need a Speedo and a voltmeter and that’s about it. My display will hopefully be the esp32-s3 LCD with wifi and Bluetooth
@@kihestad YES! Please do! I have an idea for your foreseen SSR version, using cheap components. Hence I should really check out the Discord channel you started. BTW my Ducati 900SS project is nearing completion.. exciting stuff ;) and with plenty of time till we hit the first rain free days at 15 centigrade (which probably sounds pathetic to a Norwegian I'm sure 😆).
The temp is 5C here where I live in Norway just now, and that is hotter than normal 😳 15C is no excuse 😜 just put on some warm clothe, and you can take your Ducati out for a spin. Must be great to almost be done with the project. I will focus 100% on my bike builds now, it has taken too long time 😔
Hi, thanks for dropping by! I think it is not very common to be both a motorcycle freak and electronic nerd - like me 🤓 It is really not that difficult, but it takes a bit more patience compared to doing mechanical work on a motorcycle. If you do the wiring wrong, like mix up positive and negative cables, it can end up with a very bad result. I have managed to frie a microcontroller and a relay unit so far because I had plugged and unplugged it so many times, got a bit lazy and skipped checking it all before powering it on 😏 Not very expensive parts luckily. I will make a follow up video soon now where I show what I have done so far, and probably some in depth videos as well for those who want to learn. Stay tuned!
The freedom to control the OLed indicator display alone is so awesome. Not too many are excited to learn how things work on these electronic stuffs. The very least appreciated art behind motorcycling
Oh man. I have a 77 Yamaha RD400 that is in dire need of an electrical overhaul and thinning! This idea of a computer controlled electronic system for all of the turn signals brake lights Etc is exactly what this bike needs. Trying to shove 6 Mi of wire behind the headlight is a recipe for disaster. Having 10 wires total on the entire motorcycle would be ideal. I love this idea and I want to follow it all the way!
Haha, sounds familiar when you describe wires behind your headlight 😂Had to take a break from this project for a while, but hope to soon get back on track and will post a update video eventually
Thanks bro! It's actually not that hard add some visual elements, very glad to hear that you find it useful. I don't have the same elegance when it comes to the artwork in my videos compared to yours though 😊
@@kihestad I know, but those visual elements make for such better experience to watch. I really like the way you did this. And it does not need to be better, that would ruin the point of it in my opinion. Well, Your artwork and artistic approach to this is great for that kind of videos. It is not suppose to be perfect in the same way as when you showcase nature. I love your way of telling the visual story and great voice over. Would be cool to do something together one day. 👏🏻🎥
Very good point. The effects and visual elements added to a video should somehow be aligned with the footage. Your videos showcasing the beauty of the Norwegian countryside works best with good looking and pleasing visual effects, as you manage to pull together perfectly. My garage and my cafe racer however, let's say it's a bit rougher 😋 We should definitely do a collaboration at some time 👍I am looking for a old school adventure bike as a fixer upper project. These cafe racers are fun for short trips downtown, but not suitable for longer road trips. You probably have some tips for what to look for, I have no experience with these kind of bikes!
@@kihestad Yeah, but when you work in the garage is should be a little bit rough. Would be nice to follow you around in the garage and get some footage of you, maybe help out with some b-roll of you doing some mechanical stuff with 👌🏻 The old Tenere or Africa Twin are probably one of the coolest old classical ADV bikes out there. But maybe hard to come by….
@@tshansen Perfect, I am up for it! Next time you visit my part of the country drop by and bring and along your camera gear! Perhaps we should have a meetup in Bergen this weekend? 😶 It is not easy to find a Tenere or Africa Twin as a restauration project, but it is definitely bikes I would like to get hold of. I am not sure if it is "allowed" to modify them though, these classic bikes has to be restored to their original glory, the community gets mad if you customize them 😆 What do you think of BMW adventure bikes? Any experience with them? I have already one Yamaha and two Honda's, so it would be fun to try out a different brand 😛
Hi, I hope to eventually come up with a DIY solution, but it takes time 😬 I have too many projects going on at the same time 😳 if you are in a hurry you could take a look at this alternative to the m-unit - it's a bit more affordable I think: nwtcycletronic.com/
This is awesome! I was looking at my wire spaghetti in my front headlight housing wondering how I was going to fix it all. I now have my answer!! I love tinkering with electronics and motorbikes so I'll be following along keenly. Thank you so much for taking the time to create this video and share your code to the community.
Glad to hear that 😊 It has been somewhat slow progress because of other projects. Some work has been done, and I guess it's time for an update video soon 😊
Wow, you really are handy in the garage and on the computer. I looked at the wiring on the cb400 in the garage, and it made me think of something that Al from the Skid factory said. "Typical 80's Japanese wiring," he then said something about that they did it in weird ways and not very straightforward. Although the bike is from the late 70s (78), the wiring is still a mess and did not impress me. For what it's worth, it doesn't look like someone messed with the wires before. Only the rear tail light was changed, but it looks like they just used male crimp connectors and attached it to the factory female ones. After doing the brakes, the tail lights are getting changed back to the factory. I was able to find an old stock tail lamp on eBay, and thankfully, the bike came with the original bracket. Which is also in much better condition than ones I found on eBay. The current headache is to get the front disc brakes back to spec and make sure their working properly. Fingers crossed it only needs a good bleeding, but I'm expecting a Master cylinder rebuild.
Haha 😂🤣 I do agree with the AI from the Skid factory! The wiring on these bikes are quite confusing, and it can be very challenging to fix problems if someone has tampered with it. You are lucky if the wiring on your cb400 is more or less untouched (so was I). Sounds like your bike has been slightly rebuilt, and you are putting it back to original?
@KI Hestad Yes, I'm doing a bit of restoration work. It would be hectic to have two of the same bikes but a cafe racer caught my attention and when doing research on the bike I found lots of examples on google where people turned them into cafe racers (that's how I found your videos). I like it but would not be able to do it to the Honda in the garage. My father said he thinks he would look silly on a cafe racer and he would also not want to do it to the bike. To the best of my ability and do as much as possible with what is available in the garage and not spending huge amounts on it. The bike has an interesting history and one that I don't know all the details. I forgot the fine details; my father bought it in 2019 from a bike collector. The bike sat in storage for most of its life on a military base. I'm not sure what they used if for, or if it was someone's private possession. Currently has 20 892 Km on the odometer. Thankfully, the bike is very good cosmetic and mechanical condition. She's not perfect, but at least where I live, you won't easily find another example like it. They sold very few numbers, the cb750 was more popular. Back when my father was a young boy his father had a bike that was nearly identical to this one. So that, the condition and price is why I think my father bought it. So I have rebuilt and cleaned the carburetors with lots of new parts, replaced stripped JIS screws on the Carbs with hex ones. Rebuilding the carbs was very intimidating to start with, but once I got inside, I couldn't understand what the fuss was about from other people that i talked to prior starting with the project. Their so simple and basic to work on, but the understanding and fault finding is a mystery. Local bike shops were very hesitant to work on the carbs and eventually one of them referred us to a carb expert. He could do it, but said we needed to source the parts ourselves. So I then asked why don't I give it a crack? So that's how it started. I replaced hoses and added float drain hoses that were missing. Treated minor rust , resprayed the battery bracket, and added a new rubber mat for the battery, as well as replaced the battery. Sprayed silicone spray on the old rubber parts, cleaned the electrical components (still need to do the ignition coil's ground pins), added labels to the fuse holder, cleaned it and need to get 7A fuses. I did tidy up some wiring near the solenoid looking thing near the battery and removed old electrical tape and used heat shrink. So next up is to bleed the brakes, and if they are still weak, I need to inspect /clean/rebuild them. Then, I want to restore the rear tail light to the original. There's lots of other things that I would like to do, so it's a continuous project. But first need to finish the necessary stuff and then the nice to haves.
hehe, I am sure your father would look badass on a cafe racer 😎 but it sounds like the right choice to get it back to original since it has such a special history and it has only run 20K kilometers 😮 that is rare! Good luck with the project, I am sure it will be in perfect condition when done!!!
Thanks 👍 I will share the progress in upcoming videos, and go a bit more into the details of the Arduino part in future videos. I'll try my best to share my experience 😊
I'm surprised there isn't more of this going on in motorcycling. I am watching the repo now. I don't know how much I can contribute; I don't have much time. But, we will see.
Hi, glad you found it interesting 😊 The project has been delayed a bit because of other work I had to get done 😔 I have done some work 'behind the scenes' though, and I'm planning to make a followup video soon.
Wow! as you described your idea, i had to laugh at how similarly you looked at this probelm to myself. I've been slowly working on practically the same project, for 9 or so months minimum. I will be running my system with my (permanent) "project" build, a 2 stroke gilera runner from 2012. I'm nearing completion of the prototype boards, including custom multi segment RGB lighting boards for the tail markers, turn indicators, dash indicator lights. Power distribution and rectification and relay switching for headlights + starter. I'm still undecided on 100% new guages, or replacing the existing LCD in the original cluster with a dot matrix unit. Total configurability is my biggest motivation and design philosophy for it all- doing it right so somoene else can benefit from all the time and thought i've already put into the concept. I have started preliminary work on the display/monitor MCU, which I'll be using a RPi2040 and RF control for the security side. I'm adding additional monitoring hardware (CHT/EGT sensor, flow sensor for coolant, and anything else that catches my fancy) The lighting system is on it's own sub board, running a separate MCU with hardware LED drivers and various redundancy/failsafes + protection for the bike management side of things which is slaved to the RPi I have stripped down the bars and some of the uglier panels, and will be using aftermarket switch modules to feed inputs to the system, and I'm keeping the (tidied up and simplified) stock ignition/charging system for now, but if I ever complete the rest of the rather daunting chunk of work, I'd like to work on custom charging/regulation circuitry in hopes of some added efficiency and reliability. My biggest challenge by far is the code side of things, but that's what motivated me to take on a project of this magnitude to begin with- my skills relating to analogue and even logic level hardware massively outstrip my ability to code, and I'd like to work on bringing my skills up to parity. I sincerely hope you're still working on this project, I will be following any further info that you put out with much interest, since our projects align so closely in goals and strategy. I'm interested in documenting my own progress, so I'll try and keep you in the loop once I put stuff out here on the internet. I wish you the best of luck on this, I hope we can collaborate on some level as we both solve the problem, since as I'm sure you know, it's not a simple or straightforward end goal. Much respect for taking the initiative - I totally understand your motivation even if it's a huge undertaking From down under the world, in NZ. peace and much respect, Chris
Thank you for sharing and for your interesting story ☺️ I have prioritized other projects for a while, but are now ready to continue on my cafe racer build and my electronics project.
Cool 😎 it's a while now since the project started, and it has been out on hold for a while because of other projects. However, I am progressing slowly and I have got help to design a solid state relay module. Hope to make a update video soon!
This is awesome, it's always bugged me how low tech motorcycle wiring is. I'm building a recumbent prototype and wanted to build something like this. Subscribed and joined your discord!
Great! You might notice lack of process lately. I am still working on it, but other projects has been prioritized for a while. The plan now is to build it during the fall
I wasn't looking for this solution (I was looking for what best cable covers to use) but what a fantastic idea. I too have a CB400N and I'm struggling with hiding so many wires. What a fantastic idea this is. I'd be really keen to help in whatever way I can!
Funny, this is exactly how I figured I'd go about doing the wiring on a custom bike like this. I've messed with arduino a good bit, and sure enough, seems I'm not the only one to think of this.
Cool! I had to put the project on hold for a while, but I am soon to restart it. I have done quite a lot of work though and have a working version, but I am constantly improving it 😁The latest addition is an accelerometer / gyroscope to enable self cancelling indicators and emergency brake flashing 😋
@@kihestad Oh hell yea thats awesome. Almost want to look into using one on my bike, but mines a bit too modern for that. though when I get around to a project bike im def gonna give it a try.
came here looking at your compressor quiet box....but really interesting rewire of your Honda....I did my vintage triumph myself years ago...but this interests me for another go around not that it needs it but looks like FUN!
Hi, thanks a lot for dropping by 😊 and yes - the rewiring project and building a mc computer is absolutely fun 😁 I had to take a break from it do other home projects, but I am about to continue soon! I have made some progress though, will share my experience in a video soon.
Hestad, you are full of surprises....I apreciate the MotoGadget products, but by 83' CB400 was chaepaer than one unit. Not to mention the display and the entire kit of needed parts. Note that there are also availabe self-maintaining impulse relays, on same blue PCB like yours, and you can control them with impulse, like OEM Motogadget switches.
You are absolutely correct, and I am already in progress of looking at alternatives to the relay module. Using solid state relays (without moving parts) is probably a better solution. It is smaller, possibly more long-lasting and do not need as much power to operate as the relays. Thanks for you input! 😊
Cool! My project is progressing very slowly, but still progressing. I have made a custom PCB for the display unit, and working on a solid state / mosfet type relay unit 😊
haha, you are totally correct: I am a complete nerd 🤓 You have already helped me a lot by posting your comment, getting feedback like this makes my day and keeps me motivated to continue 😁👍
I have been thinking on the same solution for a some time. Great job. What I was thinking was to add multiplexer to the system. This will reduce even more wiring. Also there has to be a way to replace those big ralsys for somthing different and small.
Thanks 😊 Multiplexer is a smart addon to Arduino boards. I have switched over to ESP32, these have a lot of input pins so I don't need to use multiplexer with my current design. I am also learning about mosfets, and have got help to design a solid state relay board, hopefully 😋
For bikes with a full fairing such as goldwings and Honda Valkyrie Interstate. It would be great to replace the dials with this + a tablet for Apple Car Play/Android Auto
Agree! I have an old adventure bike with a rather spacious dashboard with very simple dials. A upgrade that included a GPS / Google Maps would have been just fantastic!
Wow! This is really really cool. I was expecting you to have maybe wired them up in some fancy way. 😀 I hope you get a response from people who can get their brains behind this. Sadly I'm not the guy you're looking for. 😮💨
Thanks ☺️ I have actually just recently bought a couple of gyro/accelerometers and will try to include it to the project. Auto cancelling turn signals and perhaps auto brake lights as well.
@@kihestad Auto brake lights would actually be pretty neat! Motorcycles can brake pretty hard on just the engine, so I will sometimes actuate the rear brake just a little bit sometimes so that the cars behind me will know that I'm slowing down.. So I will definitely see if this is something I can play with on my build as well. (Also a perfect way to finally get started with Arduino!)
Really cool project. I'm a bit late to see this. I have a 1977 Honda CB550k and im both motorcycle and electronics enthusiast. i've made PCBs that integrate micro controllers like arduino and esp32 with the addition LCDs. simplifying spaghetti wiring would be an absolutely fun project. wouldn't be very difficult either. if i didn't want to keep my bike stock i would take on a project like this. maybe if i get another vintage spaghetti wire bike i would.
Hey, that was fun to read 😊 Glad it's not only me that's interested in both mc and electronics 😊 The project is still ongoing (after a long break). I might end up designing a PCB for the project, but I still learning 😋
Very excited to se where this goes, I'm a software developer and a happy motorcykleist from Denmark, and i think this might be a good replacement for the fried electronics on my K75, however I also own a CN250N so I'm happy to se you working and the big brother of mine. Please contact me if you need any help, I worn't seek you out until I decide to use it myself, but if you reach out I'll definitely give it some work. I see huge potential in this, and also in custom relay/controller blocks and controller enclosures or boards with Integrated displays. :)
Thanks a lot for reaching out 😊 I am mostly familiar with the software side myself, while I am learning by doing when it comes to the electronics. Feel free to join the discord channel and we can have a chat: discord.gg/p5pfdZxfS8
Awesome video. I was thinking about doing something similar with bistable relays in order to run momentary switches but lack the depth of knowledge that you clearly have. Very interested to see how this comes together.
Thanks 😊 well my skills are also limited on many areas when it comes to this project, especially the microcontroller / electronics part, but I am learning along the way!
Thanks! ☺️ Other projects had occupied my time lately, but soon ready to continue. I have made the first working prototype with all the features needed, should not be too long time before I make a followup video 🤞
Yes, feilsøke på disse gamle ledningsnettene er som å finne nåla i høysekken. Har kommet et ganske langt stykke på vei med en elektronisk løsning nå, kommer en oppdatering utover høsten!
@@kihestad Høres veldig bra ut! Har klødd meg i hodet over koblingsskjemaet til min 1991 XT350 en hel dag bare for å finne ut hvordan blinklysene er ment å virke.. Veldig flott kanal du har, kjekt å følge med deg fremover, ser deg i neste video!
Det kjenner jeg meg igjen i, aner ikke hvor mange timer jeg har brukt på lete fram rett ledning eller kobling som har skapt trøbbel 😝 Snart klar med ny video, kjekt å høre at du vil følge med videre 🙏😊
Ki… really great approach, in general. People need to understand this fundamental is before buying things like the m-unit; that you are buying a system, someone else’s system. So you must understand it’s limitations and possibilities, beyond its features and design philosophies. Essentially you are locked in with little choices in you design and functions other than a schematic layout, i.e. running the wires between components, and often caught in needing to use their complete pantheon of gadgets and accessories. Only if you understand all this upfront, and agree with it, will the outcome meet your needs and expectations. So before buying read the manuals over and over until you have picked all this detail information out. Also, unless you are up to this you will be under a commercial companies mercy as to solving problems. Further now-a-days all automotive and motorcycle wiring system have standards to meet for EMI and power spikes like caused by switching… and modern electronic signal controlled systems use tiny (read near zero) current flow in control circuits and work by a micro-switch shorting to ground to provide microprocessor a momentary control signal / digital to control the microprocessors control… at low voltage. This means you at using very tiny signals to control the power relay / transistor so mixing power switching switches into a system with micro-electronic control of power relays / transistors you are asking for problems due to voltage spikes and high current flows in the “electrical or old fashioned bike wiring” Frankenstein electrical system. So it’s best to either isolate the Frankenstein robust stuff from the sensitive control aspects or convert it all to electronic controller off of power relays / transistors. So you’d be better of eliminating Frankenstein power switching in general from your system. Modern power control switching circuits (relays) should have low pass filtering to rid the stem of voltage and current spikes when they open/close, and the control wiring should all be separated from power distribution particularly is there are capacitors or inductors inductive/coils. This goes for protecting signals from things like wheel or engine speed sensors. Now the handle bars and wiring from them should be control side wiring, and low power instrument and indicator lights which are resistive loads LED fall into this. And this wiring should go to the micro controller fine. This includes all momentary or digital signal controls. But if using relay controls which are switched with latching but low power switches this needs to be installed separately and isolated from other digital control signal wiring, or in another words even if you are using low power Frankenstein latching switches to power relays keep this in mind it is not digital control. As far as the digital control wiring really that can be quite tiny maybe 28-30 awg sizing awhile for low power latching switches to control the relays stuff slightly larger is needed 24-26 awg . But I find 24 awg to 22 awg about as small as I can fumble around in wiring. Now wiring of loads including the power wires of relays and the supply you must go with large enough that you do’t overheat. But even todays headlights and other lighting loads you may be using 18 awg to 22awg. But the alternator wiring likely will be 10 awg to 16 awg on bikes.., while battery supply and ground as well as starter and solenoid wiring can be much larger too. What I am getting at your wiring now-days with LED lights etc. will be quite tiny stuff, but the basic wiring will not be small. And, this all means very in need of fastidious installation and assembly.
Wow, this was a lengthy and insightful comment 😳 Almost as if it was generated by GPT4 😬 The project has been paused for a while, but it has been some exciting progress the latest days 😊 will be posting a video soon!
@@kihestad Thanks…. Why I had these insights was I bought an Motogadget m-unit blue because Form various sources it appeared to be what was needed. Unfortunately, I did not read the manual like ten times before purchase so found out about that systems limitations too late. I think your approach is better but more challenging as it takes a deeper knowledge. I could go on in detail about the m-unit, but the simple aspect is it’s forcing you into a mixed system digital purely, with also latching switches and non-protected switching relays basically transistors but without low pass filtering, and still the need of the the bikes original battery charging, ignition, and fuel injection electrical circuit and wiring… this includes the ABS and Traction Control systems if present. So it created an expensive and hard to integrate system. The limitation on this is primarily the false auxiliary A and B connections which are not auxiliaries (what most would buy it for to power auxiliary lights and equipment) but auxiliary A is really running lights and auxiliary B is the interface with the wheel speed sensor to provide the maintenance and running data logging interface. This then forces one to purchase and cobble together an auxiliary power system if you have something extra like off-road lights, spot light, or hand warmers gps, USB, or any of a host of extras… yes you can wiring splice some into the running light auxiliary A or auxiliary B which strangely has 2- 10 amp current limited connections but if you must hook your wheel speed sensor to auxiliary B in one of the spare connections it effectively takes away a true auxiliary, and if auxiliary A is powering tail or running lights… do you really have a spare connection for true auxiliaries or extras unless spliced in and run off latching control switched auxiliary relays with no load filtering… these are the circuits you really need load filtering. Worse if you have bought the m-button single wire digital control unit for your handle bar switches but then need to install latching control switches for the auxiliary relays from the handle bars too… then you’ve mixed with that digital control signal wire with the less particular latching control switch wires in and from the handle bars. Damn mess… unless you mitigate by separating the true auxiliaries you cobble together to some where else. Worse it makes you buy their stuff of this so it matches “the look” but they don”t offer matching latching switch inserts. I think they are Germans, company design and production based in Berlin, and know what they are doing engineering wise but chose to trick there customers with this really not well integrated system. So you are forced to use their way… like running a military with tactical finesse but with zero strategic plan. A losing strategy when you know your real adversaries have strategic bombing as there primary plan. So why fight forevermore the Franco-Preußen War… over and over! I will share, as I have time, my wiring harness adaption for my bike… using ribbon wiring to good effect… sort of like they had to do with the F35 plane when they found they had no room to install the wiring. Turns out cleaner and easier than other looming methods… All the best!
Nice project. Was thinking the same for my bike. For the handlebar side, the T-Display S3 ESP32S3 would be great. The motogadget scope is very expensive and this could easily handle all the handlebar controls and speedo outputs that could be fantastic looking and small
Thanks! 😊 I have a fully working prototype now, but it does not include speedometer and tachometer -yet! My original plan was to use it in addition to an aftermarket speedo/tach-meter, but I do consider using a slightly bigger display - perhaps color display - and include all features needed into it 🤔
@@kihestad yes. That would be great, I think. I have one of these on the way and intend to cnc machine an enclosure for handlebars. If you haven't seen, have a look at this: ruclips.net/video/AxJ3pf8yh5s/видео.html
Thanks 😊 I am looking forward to continue on it, had to pause this project for a while. I have made the first working prototype, but I got so many ideas for added functionality so I am now working on version 2.0 😊
Love it. I've been looking at a smilar solution. There is one thing I don't like and that's the relays. I've been looking for a solid state solution, with no luck so far. My project has been on halt for a couple of years now but hope to pick it up soon.
We are in the "same boat" as we say here in Norway 😁I have been looking for solid state switch modules for Arduino myself without finding anything usable, so I just went with the "old" traditional relay module. However, I have got help from @Ramjet from Australia that suggested a solution. If everything turns out a solid state solution might replace the relays. I have a Discord channel you can join to take a closer look: discord.gg/ccT6R4EF
P-channel MOSFETs. N-Channel are more reliable, but in these low-voltage, moderate-current installations a high-side (that is, in the positive lead) P-Channel switch will work well. Look for automotive rated and a minimal 50v rating. The "drive" is low to the gate, so typically you'd just invert the existing output at the microcontroller GPIO pin.
Awesome video! Is it possible to add self canceling turn signals? I owned a bajaj pulsar 180 which has the self cancel turn signal feature. So when I turn the handle bar to left or right, it will automatically turn off in a couple of seconds..
Yes, I have added a gyroscope/ accelerometer to the computer in the latest version. It will make it possible to program auto cancelling turn signals and auto break signal (flashing) as well.
I love your channel. How's the cafe racer coming along? You haven't posted an update in a long time. I'm also building a cafe racer and got a lot of help from your channel. I love your wiring diagram but I'm wondering about the charging portion of the system. Do you have a diagram for the alternator to the rectifier/regulator? I'm specifically wondering how to wire the regulator/rectifier into the system properly. Three yellow wires into the regulator/rectifier and three out (red, green and black). Pretty sure the red goes back to the positive side of the batter but I'm not sure exactly what to do with the black and green?
Thanks 😁 I had to take a break from my Honda cafe racer build because of other projects (my shed), and then I bought a new bike (the Cagiva) and I want to get it prepared for the spring season. I will however be continuing on the build pretty soon now, the wiring and getting it started are the first tasks! I have the original wiring diagram for the bike, I can upload it to GIT and share link to it later today when I am back home (it should be possible to find it using Google search as well). The yellow wires should be left alone, it is AC power from the alternator to the regulator rectifier that is converted to DC power. You are correct about the red one, it goes to the battery for charging. The bike delivers at least 14.5 Volts and around 5 Amps if I remember correct, perhaps even more on high rpm. If you switch to Lithium batteries you must make sure they can handle this, or you need to regulate it. The green one is direct to ground. The black one is 12V input to the regulator from the ignition switch.
@@kihestad Thanks so much for getting back to me. I did switch to a lithium battery and bought a new regulator/rectifier suitable for lithium. As I understand it the lithium regulator keeps the volts at safe levels for the battery. I removed the ignition switch completely from the system and instead wired in a secret switch off the batteries positive terminal after my fuse box. This switch opens all circuits including engaging the starter solenoid. With this setup should I send the Black to ground? Beyond converting AC to DC I guess I ultimately don't quite understand how a rectifier/regulator works and therefore don't know what to do with the black wire. Does the black wire provide power to lighting circuits while the bike is running? Maybe I should connect it to the system after my secret switch?
I have uploaded the wiring diagram for my bike here (cannot say for sure if this is the same on yours, might depend on model make and year): github.com/KIHestad/Ctrl-MC/blob/main/Documents/Honda%20CB400N%20CB250N%20Original%20Wiring%20Diagram.png On these old Honda motorcycles green wires goes to normally direct to ground. Red are typically constant 12V positive lead, while black and other colors are connected to fuses, switches or sensors providing ground or 12V depending on a switch (or sensor) are on or off. Since you have bought a new regulator/rectifier you really need to connect it according to the vendors specifications. The rectifier part transforms AC power to DC, the regulator makes sure the output voltage are within correct range. Remember that the original ignition switch for these bikes has two switches built into it, one connects 12V while the other connects to ground. It will require some rewiring if you replace it with a single 12V switch. It can be tricky to figure out how to do these things, and hard to give absolute guidance on how you should connect your wires without seeing the complete wiring. Just take your time and study the wiring diagram and you will figure it out! 👍
@@kihestad YES. Have tested with both 5v and 12v Hall sensors. Did use gps but reaction time delay not feasible. When measuring acceleration wheel movement in combination with millisecond circumference clocking results in accurate 0-100 KM/H results. Maybe gps also not legal in certain countries.
This is fantastic! Im a developer turned product manager and motorcycle builder. I’d love to help out in any way. Im going to order these components and try to to install on a build im working on. Looking forward to contributing!
That is great! 👍😊 It's a link in the description to a Discord channel and to the project filed on GitHub. I am sorry to say that I had to take a break from the project for a while, but I hope to continue on it very soon!
Hi, I had to prioritize some other projects for a while - almost a year actually 😫 I have made a working prototype of the motorcycle computer. I did learn a lot during the process, and I have decided to build a prototype version 2 with even more features and replace the the mechanical relays with MOSFET's instead (also called solid state relays). Hope to be able to continue on the build very soon. I am almost done with a big garage upgrade, and then it's back to the Honda build! 😊
very risky with parts that are not made for automotive, vibration, heat, cold, dust, water, voltage fluctuation....the system must run 100%. An outfall during riding is a nightmare.
You are spot on! 👍👍👍 This is also my biggest concern. I have learned so far that the microcontrollers operating at very low voltage/current is sensible to electrical noise, and do not like long cables. That is the reason I now have two microcontrolles with a serial cable for communication between them. This will be shielded and the communication cables are type twisted pair. I have also built data communication checksum algorithms (CRC), the system triggers regularly handshake commands to ensure that the communication and both units are working as intended. I can trigger retry commands if communication fails, and send alert on the display if something goes wrong. I have now reliable communication between the units with a 2 meter cable, in theory Arduinos can have reliable communication up to 2km using the serial signals 🙄 Some Arduinos come with support for CAN-bus as well, the protocol used for communication in cars, but it is more or less the same as the serial communication I am using. How the electronics will cope with the physical environment will be exiting to see, I will be the guinea pig 😁I am not sure if the Arduino platform differs that much from electrics you find in the automotive industry, I think Arduinos are used in industrial applications as well. I will do my best to find components that are reliable, this is the topic that I care about and I have to make the system reliable, if I cannot make that happen I'll let you know! Hoping for the best 😋
@@kihestad thanks fo your detailed answer. I also thought many times about to make something similar for my old cafe racers. At least i let it because i´m not the big expert and it takes lot of time. I would be happy if works and sure one of your first customer.👍
Great video! Great explanation of how overly complicated the original system is due to the manufacturing process. Very trick stuff with making your own controllers!
Thanks 😊 it is both fascinating and frustrating to work with an old wiring harness. It's really very simple to understand, yet so complex to figure out 🥴 Almost done with the first prototype of the home made controller now, it actually works 🤓
@@kihestadhello there from Greece i have seen all of your videos and its all perfect... can you give me more information about the diy kit that you have make (code- parts -diagram) to make for my cb250n i know some things about Arduino because we have it on university but i don't know too much about the wiring of the motorcycle
@@bacardilove1981 hi 😊 the project is still in development phase, you will find more info on my homepage: hestad.no
You have no idea how blown away I am! For the past year I’ve set out to do the exact same thing from scratch with minimal starting knowledge. I’ve gotten so far with wiring and buttons as well as 3d modeling prototype parts, however the code is my struggle! I look forward to reading your code and modifying it for my own bike! 🎉 cheers on such a great make
Cool! I have had quite a long break from this project, but I am soon to start up again. I have a working prototype, but decided to upgrade some components and add even more features. I have also played around with the thought of replacing the monochrome OLED display with a circular color TFT display, and add sensors for speed and engine rpm. Then it could end up as a complete solution without need for a separate speedometer / odometer. Even fuel tank level indicator could be built in, the possibilities are endless 😊
@@kihestad I’m so impressed! I’ll be keeping it fairly simple since my ebike would need a Speedo and a voltmeter and that’s about it. My display will hopefully be the esp32-s3 LCD with wifi and Bluetooth
@@kihestad YES! Please do!
I have an idea for your foreseen SSR version, using cheap components. Hence I should really check out the Discord channel you started.
BTW my Ducati 900SS project is nearing completion.. exciting stuff ;) and with plenty of time till we hit the first rain free days at 15 centigrade (which probably sounds pathetic to a Norwegian I'm sure 😆).
The temp is 5C here where I live in Norway just now, and that is hotter than normal 😳 15C is no excuse 😜 just put on some warm clothe, and you can take your Ducati out for a spin. Must be great to almost be done with the project. I will focus 100% on my bike builds now, it has taken too long time 😔
Im not an electronic guy. Just a motorcycle freak. Glad I came here. Now I cant wait to learn. This is advance motorcycling here
Hi, thanks for dropping by! I think it is not very common to be both a motorcycle freak and electronic nerd - like me 🤓 It is really not that difficult, but it takes a bit more patience compared to doing mechanical work on a motorcycle. If you do the wiring wrong, like mix up positive and negative cables, it can end up with a very bad result. I have managed to frie a microcontroller and a relay unit so far because I had plugged and unplugged it so many times, got a bit lazy and skipped checking it all before powering it on 😏 Not very expensive parts luckily.
I will make a follow up video soon now where I show what I have done so far, and probably some in depth videos as well for those who want to learn. Stay tuned!
The freedom to control the OLed indicator display alone is so awesome. Not too many are excited to learn how things work on these electronic stuffs. The very least appreciated art behind motorcycling
I guess it's not for everyone 😌
Oh man. I have a 77 Yamaha RD400 that is in dire need of an electrical overhaul and thinning! This idea of a computer controlled electronic system for all of the turn signals brake lights Etc is exactly what this bike needs. Trying to shove 6 Mi of wire behind the headlight is a recipe for disaster. Having 10 wires total on the entire motorcycle would be ideal. I love this idea and I want to follow it all the way!
Haha, sounds familiar when you describe wires behind your headlight 😂Had to take a break from this project for a while, but hope to soon get back on track and will post a update video eventually
Haha, love the drawings 👏🏻 makes it so much better to follow along on. Great video as always mate. You set a high standard for this kind of videos. 👏🏻
Thanks bro! It's actually not that hard add some visual elements, very glad to hear that you find it useful. I don't have the same elegance when it comes to the artwork in my videos compared to yours though 😊
@@kihestad I know, but those visual elements make for such better experience to watch. I really like the way you did this. And it does not need to be better, that would ruin the point of it in my opinion. Well, Your artwork and artistic approach to this is great for that kind of videos. It is not suppose to be perfect in the same way as when you showcase nature. I love your way of telling the visual story and great voice over. Would be cool to do something together one day. 👏🏻🎥
Very good point. The effects and visual elements added to a video should somehow be aligned with the footage. Your videos showcasing the beauty of the Norwegian countryside works best with good looking and pleasing visual effects, as you manage to pull together perfectly. My garage and my cafe racer however, let's say it's a bit rougher 😋 We should definitely do a collaboration at some time 👍I am looking for a old school adventure bike as a fixer upper project. These cafe racers are fun for short trips downtown, but not suitable for longer road trips. You probably have some tips for what to look for, I have no experience with these kind of bikes!
@@kihestad Yeah, but when you work in the garage is should be a little bit rough. Would be nice to follow you around in the garage and get some footage of you, maybe help out with some b-roll of you doing some mechanical stuff with 👌🏻 The old Tenere or Africa Twin are probably one of the coolest old classical ADV bikes out there. But maybe hard to come by….
@@tshansen Perfect, I am up for it! Next time you visit my part of the country drop by and bring and along your camera gear! Perhaps we should have a meetup in Bergen this weekend? 😶 It is not easy to find a Tenere or Africa Twin as a restauration project, but it is definitely bikes I would like to get hold of. I am not sure if it is "allowed" to modify them though, these classic bikes has to be restored to their original glory, the community gets mad if you customize them 😆 What do you think of BMW adventure bikes? Any experience with them? I have already one Yamaha and two Honda's, so it would be fun to try out a different brand 😛
Genius. Really great solution.
This is exactly what I’ve been looking for. I’ll definitely be testing this out on my KZ750.
Thanks, hope it works out for your KX750! 👍
Oh wow that interface you made is sooo cool!
That sounds good, most of all I try to make it intuitive and efficient.
Damn this came in pinch, I was stressing out if I should get a m-unit as im in progress of rebuilding my bike, glad I came across this video
Hi, I hope to eventually come up with a DIY solution, but it takes time 😬 I have too many projects going on at the same time 😳 if you are in a hurry you could take a look at this alternative to the m-unit - it's a bit more affordable I think: nwtcycletronic.com/
That's taken re-wiring to a new level.....very, very impressive indeed.
Thanks 😊
very nice, I rewiring my 81 GS 850 now ... love it!!
Thanks, and good luck with your rewiring 😁👍
This is awesome! I was looking at my wire spaghetti in my front headlight housing wondering how I was going to fix it all. I now have my answer!! I love tinkering with electronics and motorbikes so I'll be following along keenly. Thank you so much for taking the time to create this video and share your code to the community.
Glad to hear that 😊 It has been somewhat slow progress because of other projects. Some work has been done, and I guess it's time for an update video soon 😊
@@kihestad super keen to see your progress! Price of m-unit has skyrocketed here in Oz so would love to build my own
Have you considered the nwt x21? It's a bit cheaper I think.
I am really looking forward to seeing how this one turns out it looks perfect for my next project, great work and great video as always
Thanks 😊 I'll let you know how it goes 🤞
Wow, you really are handy in the garage and on the computer.
I looked at the wiring on the cb400 in the garage, and it made me think of something that Al from the Skid factory said.
"Typical 80's Japanese wiring," he then said something about that they did it in weird ways and not very straightforward.
Although the bike is from the late 70s (78), the wiring is still a mess and did not impress me.
For what it's worth, it doesn't look like someone messed with the wires before. Only the rear tail light was changed, but it looks like they just used male crimp connectors and attached it to the factory female ones.
After doing the brakes, the tail lights are getting changed back to the factory. I was able to find an old stock tail lamp on eBay, and thankfully, the bike came with the original bracket.
Which is also in much better condition than ones I found on eBay.
The current headache is to get the front disc brakes back to spec and make sure their working properly.
Fingers crossed it only needs a good bleeding, but I'm expecting a Master cylinder rebuild.
Haha 😂🤣 I do agree with the AI from the Skid factory! The wiring on these bikes are quite confusing, and it can be very challenging to fix problems if someone has tampered with it. You are lucky if the wiring on your cb400 is more or less untouched (so was I).
Sounds like your bike has been slightly rebuilt, and you are putting it back to original?
@KI Hestad Yes, I'm doing a bit of restoration work. It would be hectic to have two of the same bikes but a cafe racer caught my attention and when doing research on the bike I found lots of examples on google where people turned them into cafe racers (that's how I found your videos). I like it but would not be able to do it to the Honda in the garage. My father said he thinks he would look silly on a cafe racer and he would also not want to do it to the bike.
To the best of my ability and do as much as possible with what is available in the garage and not spending huge amounts on it.
The bike has an interesting history and one that I don't know all the details. I forgot the fine details; my father bought it in 2019 from a bike collector.
The bike sat in storage for most of its life on a military base. I'm not sure what they used if for, or if it was someone's private possession.
Currently has 20 892 Km on the odometer.
Thankfully, the bike is very good cosmetic and mechanical condition. She's not perfect, but at least where I live, you won't easily find another example like it. They sold very few numbers, the cb750 was more popular.
Back when my father was a young boy his father had a bike that was nearly identical to this one. So that, the condition and price is why I think my father bought it.
So I have rebuilt and cleaned the carburetors with lots of new parts, replaced stripped JIS screws on the Carbs with hex ones.
Rebuilding the carbs was very intimidating to start with, but once I got inside, I couldn't understand what the fuss was about from other people that i talked to prior starting with the project.
Their so simple and basic to work on, but the understanding and fault finding is a mystery.
Local bike shops were very hesitant to work on the carbs and eventually one of them referred us to a carb expert. He could do it, but said we needed to source the parts ourselves. So I then asked why don't I give it a crack? So that's how it started.
I replaced hoses and added float drain hoses that were missing. Treated minor rust , resprayed the battery bracket, and added a new rubber mat for the battery, as well as replaced the battery.
Sprayed silicone spray on the old rubber parts, cleaned the electrical components (still need to do the ignition coil's ground pins), added labels to the fuse holder, cleaned it and need to get 7A fuses.
I did tidy up some wiring near the solenoid looking thing near the battery and removed old electrical tape and used heat shrink.
So next up is to bleed the brakes, and if they are still weak, I need to inspect /clean/rebuild them.
Then, I want to restore the rear tail light to the original.
There's lots of other things that I would like to do, so it's a continuous project.
But first need to finish the necessary stuff and then the nice to haves.
hehe, I am sure your father would look badass on a cafe racer 😎 but it sounds like the right choice to get it back to original since it has such a special history and it has only run 20K kilometers 😮 that is rare!
Good luck with the project, I am sure it will be in perfect condition when done!!!
Cool! For budget builds the M-unit is very expensive i agree, have to fork your repo and check that out. Thanks for sharing!
Perfect! If you find it interesting you can join the newly created Discord channel: discord.gg/ccT6R4EF
I've been waiting for someone to do this.
Great! Still working on it, takes longer than I hoped for but It's getting there 😊
Been following your CB400 project since the beginning and really like your problems solving approach, keep up the good work 👍
So glad to hear that 😁 Thanks!
WOW! Really cool! Way over my head arduino wise but I'd love to learn for future projects! Great work!
Thanks 👍 I will share the progress in upcoming videos, and go a bit more into the details of the Arduino part in future videos. I'll try my best to share my experience 😊
I'm surprised there isn't more of this going on in motorcycling. I am watching the repo now. I don't know how much I can contribute; I don't have much time. But, we will see.
Well, tinkering with electronics and doing software development is probably not what most motorcyclists do 😝 I guess it's a rare combination 😊
Please help
Wow this is awsome. I’ll be following this.
Hi, glad you found it interesting 😊 The project has been delayed a bit because of other work I had to get done 😔 I have done some work 'behind the scenes' though, and I'm planning to make a followup video soon.
Wow! as you described your idea, i had to laugh at how similarly you looked at this probelm to myself. I've been slowly working on practically the same project, for 9 or so months minimum.
I will be running my system with my (permanent) "project" build, a 2 stroke gilera runner from 2012. I'm nearing completion of the prototype boards, including custom multi segment RGB lighting boards for the tail markers, turn indicators, dash indicator lights. Power distribution and rectification and relay switching for headlights + starter. I'm still undecided on 100% new guages, or replacing the existing LCD in the original cluster with a dot matrix unit. Total configurability is my biggest motivation and design philosophy for it all- doing it right so somoene else can benefit from all the time and thought i've already put into the concept.
I have started preliminary work on the display/monitor MCU, which I'll be using a RPi2040 and RF control for the security side. I'm adding additional monitoring hardware (CHT/EGT sensor, flow sensor for coolant, and anything else that catches my fancy)
The lighting system is on it's own sub board, running a separate MCU with hardware LED drivers and various redundancy/failsafes + protection for the bike management side of things which is slaved to the RPi
I have stripped down the bars and some of the uglier panels, and will be using aftermarket switch modules to feed inputs to the system, and I'm keeping the (tidied up and simplified) stock ignition/charging system for now, but if I ever complete the rest of the rather daunting chunk of work, I'd like to work on custom charging/regulation circuitry in hopes of some added efficiency and reliability.
My biggest challenge by far is the code side of things, but that's what motivated me to take on a project of this magnitude to begin with- my skills relating to analogue and even logic level hardware massively outstrip my ability to code, and I'd like to work on bringing my skills up to parity.
I sincerely hope you're still working on this project, I will be following any further info that you put out with much interest, since our projects align so closely in goals and strategy. I'm interested in documenting my own progress, so I'll try and keep you in the loop once I put stuff out here on the internet.
I wish you the best of luck on this, I hope we can collaborate on some level as we both solve the problem, since as I'm sure you know, it's not a simple or straightforward end goal. Much respect for taking the initiative - I totally understand your motivation even if it's a huge undertaking
From down under the world, in NZ.
peace and much respect,
Chris
Thank you for sharing and for your interesting story ☺️ I have prioritized other projects for a while, but are now ready to continue on my cafe racer build and my electronics project.
This absolutely what I am looking for my xrv750 build.❤❤❤
Cool 😎 it's a while now since the project started, and it has been out on hold for a while because of other projects. However, I am progressing slowly and I have got help to design a solid state relay module. Hope to make a update video soon!
This is awesome, it's always bugged me how low tech motorcycle wiring is. I'm building a recumbent prototype and wanted to build something like this. Subscribed and joined your discord!
Great! You might notice lack of process lately. I am still working on it, but other projects has been prioritized for a while. The plan now is to build it during the fall
Such a cool idea! ESPHome or Home Assistant for the bike, would love to do this for my 1999 Honda Valkyrie
Glad you liked it 😊
You sir are one smart cookie !
hehe, well - if you say so 😅
Great job.
Congratulation
Thanks!
I wasn't looking for this solution (I was looking for what best cable covers to use) but what a fantastic idea. I too have a CB400N and I'm struggling with hiding so many wires. What a fantastic idea this is. I'd be really keen to help in whatever way I can!
That sounds great 👍 I have been working on the project 'behind the scenes' and the first prototype is soon ready. Plan to make a follow up video soon!
Funny, this is exactly how I figured I'd go about doing the wiring on a custom bike like this. I've messed with arduino a good bit, and sure enough, seems I'm not the only one to think of this.
Cool! I had to put the project on hold for a while, but I am soon to restart it. I have done quite a lot of work though and have a working version, but I am constantly improving it 😁The latest addition is an accelerometer / gyroscope to enable self cancelling indicators and emergency brake flashing 😋
@@kihestad Oh hell yea thats awesome. Almost want to look into using one on my bike, but mines a bit too modern for that. though when I get around to a project bike im def gonna give it a try.
came here looking at your compressor quiet box....but really interesting rewire of your Honda....I did my vintage triumph myself years ago...but this interests me for another go around not that it needs it but looks like FUN!
Hi, thanks a lot for dropping by 😊 and yes - the rewiring project and building a mc computer is absolutely fun 😁 I had to take a break from it do other home projects, but I am about to continue soon! I have made some progress though, will share my experience in a video soon.
Wow - that's amazing!
Hestad, you are full of surprises....I apreciate the MotoGadget products, but by 83' CB400 was chaepaer than one unit. Not to mention the display and the entire kit of needed parts. Note that there are also availabe self-maintaining impulse relays, on same blue PCB like yours, and you can control them with impulse, like OEM Motogadget switches.
You are absolutely correct, and I am already in progress of looking at alternatives to the relay module. Using solid state relays (without moving parts) is probably a better solution. It is smaller, possibly more long-lasting and do not need as much power to operate as the relays. Thanks for you input! 😊
RUclips just recommended me this video somehow, I am doing something similar though just at the beginning~
Cool! My project is progressing very slowly, but still progressing. I have made a custom PCB for the display unit, and working on a solid state / mosfet type relay unit 😊
Holy crap dude. I don't know how to help. sorry. You're one hell of a nerd and I wish you the best of luck with this project.
haha, you are totally correct: I am a complete nerd 🤓 You have already helped me a lot by posting your comment, getting feedback like this makes my day and keeps me motivated to continue 😁👍
I have been thinking on the same solution for a some time. Great job. What I was thinking was to add multiplexer to the system. This will reduce even more wiring. Also there has to be a way to replace those big ralsys for somthing different and small.
Thanks 😊 Multiplexer is a smart addon to Arduino boards. I have switched over to ESP32, these have a lot of input pins so I don't need to use multiplexer with my current design. I am also learning about mosfets, and have got help to design a solid state relay board, hopefully 😋
For bikes with a full fairing such as goldwings and Honda Valkyrie Interstate. It would be great to replace the dials with this + a tablet for Apple Car Play/Android Auto
Agree! I have an old adventure bike with a rather spacious dashboard with very simple dials. A upgrade that included a GPS / Google Maps would have been just fantastic!
Wow! This is really really cool. I was expecting you to have maybe wired them up in some fancy way. 😀
I hope you get a response from people who can get their brains behind this. Sadly I'm not the guy you're looking for. 😮💨
Thanks 😊 I guess having knowledge and interest for motorcycles, electronics and software development is a rare combination 😋
love it! What more could be added is auto-off turn signal.. gonna try as my first Arduino project
Thanks ☺️ I have actually just recently bought a couple of gyro/accelerometers and will try to include it to the project. Auto cancelling turn signals and perhaps auto brake lights as well.
@@kihestad Auto brake lights would actually be pretty neat! Motorcycles can brake pretty hard on just the engine, so I will sometimes actuate the rear brake just a little bit sometimes so that the cars behind me will know that I'm slowing down..
So I will definitely see if this is something I can play with on my build as well. (Also a perfect way to finally get started with Arduino!)
Really cool project. I'm a bit late to see this.
I have a 1977 Honda CB550k and im both motorcycle and electronics enthusiast. i've made PCBs that integrate micro controllers like arduino and esp32 with the addition LCDs.
simplifying spaghetti wiring would be an absolutely fun project. wouldn't be very difficult either.
if i didn't want to keep my bike stock i would take on a project like this. maybe if i get another vintage spaghetti wire bike i would.
Hey, that was fun to read 😊 Glad it's not only me that's interested in both mc and electronics 😊
The project is still ongoing (after a long break). I might end up designing a PCB for the project, but I still learning 😋
Very excited to se where this goes, I'm a software developer and a happy motorcykleist from Denmark, and i think this might be a good replacement for the fried electronics on my K75, however I also own a CN250N so I'm happy to se you working and the big brother of mine. Please contact me if you need any help, I worn't seek you out until I decide to use it myself, but if you reach out I'll definitely give it some work. I see huge potential in this, and also in custom relay/controller blocks and controller enclosures or boards with Integrated displays. :)
Thanks a lot for reaching out 😊 I am mostly familiar with the software side myself, while I am learning by doing when it comes to the electronics. Feel free to join the discord channel and we can have a chat: discord.gg/p5pfdZxfS8
Awesome video. I was thinking about doing something similar with bistable relays in order to run momentary switches but lack the depth of knowledge that you clearly have. Very interested to see how this comes together.
Thanks 😊 well my skills are also limited on many areas when it comes to this project, especially the microcontroller / electronics part, but I am learning along the way!
This is fantastic mate. Any updates on your current progress? Interested to hear how the ESP32 is going.
Thanks! ☺️ Other projects had occupied my time lately, but soon ready to continue. I have made the first working prototype with all the features needed, should not be too long time before I make a followup video 🤞
Interessant prosjekt! Det er så mye ledningsfreing hit og dit og så mange eirede konnektorer innimellom at feilsøking er tidkrevende.
Yes, feilsøke på disse gamle ledningsnettene er som å finne nåla i høysekken. Har kommet et ganske langt stykke på vei med en elektronisk løsning nå, kommer en oppdatering utover høsten!
@@kihestad Høres veldig bra ut! Har klødd meg i hodet over koblingsskjemaet til min 1991 XT350 en hel dag bare for å finne ut hvordan blinklysene er ment å virke.. Veldig flott kanal du har, kjekt å følge med deg fremover, ser deg i neste video!
Det kjenner jeg meg igjen i, aner ikke hvor mange timer jeg har brukt på lete fram rett ledning eller kobling som har skapt trøbbel 😝 Snart klar med ny video, kjekt å høre at du vil følge med videre 🙏😊
Ki… really great approach, in general. People need to understand this fundamental is before buying things like the m-unit; that you are buying a system, someone else’s system. So you must understand it’s limitations and possibilities, beyond its features and design philosophies. Essentially you are locked in with little choices in you design and functions other than a schematic layout, i.e. running the wires between components, and often caught in needing to use their complete pantheon of gadgets and accessories. Only if you understand all this upfront, and agree with it, will the outcome meet your needs and expectations. So before buying read the manuals over and over until you have picked all this detail information out. Also, unless you are up to this you will be under a commercial companies mercy as to solving problems.
Further now-a-days all automotive and motorcycle wiring system have standards to meet for EMI and power spikes like caused by switching… and modern electronic signal controlled systems use tiny (read near zero) current flow in control circuits and work by a micro-switch shorting to ground to provide microprocessor a momentary control signal / digital to control the microprocessors control… at low voltage. This means you at using very tiny signals to control the power relay / transistor so mixing power switching switches into a system with micro-electronic control of power relays / transistors you are asking for problems due to voltage spikes and high current flows in the “electrical or old fashioned bike wiring” Frankenstein electrical system. So it’s best to either isolate the Frankenstein robust stuff from the sensitive control aspects or convert it all to electronic controller off of power relays / transistors. So you’d be better of eliminating Frankenstein power switching in general from your system.
Modern power control switching circuits (relays) should have low pass filtering to rid the stem of voltage and current spikes when they open/close, and the control wiring should all be separated from power distribution particularly is there are capacitors or inductors inductive/coils. This goes for protecting signals from things like wheel or engine speed sensors.
Now the handle bars and wiring from them should be control side wiring, and low power instrument and indicator lights which are resistive loads LED fall into this. And this wiring should go to the micro controller fine. This includes all momentary or digital signal controls. But if using relay controls which are switched with latching but low power switches this needs to be installed separately and isolated from other digital control signal wiring, or in another words even if you are using low power Frankenstein latching switches to power relays keep this in mind it is not digital control. As far as the digital control wiring really that can be quite tiny maybe 28-30 awg sizing awhile for low power latching switches to control the relays stuff slightly larger is needed 24-26 awg . But I find 24 awg to 22 awg about as small as I can fumble around in wiring. Now wiring of loads including the power wires of relays and the supply you must go with large enough that you do’t overheat. But even todays headlights and other lighting loads you may be using 18 awg to 22awg. But the alternator wiring likely will be 10 awg to 16 awg on bikes.., while battery supply and ground as well as starter and solenoid wiring can be much larger too. What I am getting at your wiring now-days with LED lights etc. will be quite tiny stuff, but the basic wiring will not be small. And, this all means very in need of fastidious installation and assembly.
Wow, this was a lengthy and insightful comment 😳 Almost as if it was generated by GPT4 😬
The project has been paused for a while, but it has been some exciting progress the latest days 😊 will be posting a video soon!
@@kihestad Thanks…. Why I had these insights was I bought an Motogadget m-unit blue because Form various sources it appeared to be what was needed. Unfortunately, I did not read the manual like ten times before purchase so found out about that systems limitations too late. I think your approach is better but more challenging as it takes a deeper knowledge. I could go on in detail about the m-unit, but the simple aspect is it’s forcing you into a mixed system digital purely, with also latching switches and non-protected switching relays basically transistors but without low pass filtering, and still the need of the the bikes original battery charging, ignition, and fuel injection electrical circuit and wiring… this includes the ABS and Traction Control systems if present. So it created an expensive and hard to integrate system. The limitation on this is primarily the false auxiliary A and B connections which are not auxiliaries (what most would buy it for to power auxiliary lights and equipment) but auxiliary A is really running lights and auxiliary B is the interface with the wheel speed sensor to provide the maintenance and running data logging interface. This then forces one to purchase and cobble together an auxiliary power system if you have something extra like off-road lights, spot light, or hand warmers gps, USB, or any of a host of extras… yes you can wiring splice some into the running light auxiliary A or auxiliary B which strangely has 2- 10 amp current limited connections but if you must hook your wheel speed sensor to auxiliary B in one of the spare connections it effectively takes away a true auxiliary, and if auxiliary A is powering tail or running lights… do you really have a spare connection for true auxiliaries or extras unless spliced in and run off latching control switched auxiliary relays with no load filtering… these are the circuits you really need load filtering. Worse if you have bought the m-button single wire digital control unit for your handle bar switches but then need to install latching control switches for the auxiliary relays from the handle bars too… then you’ve mixed with that digital control signal wire with the less particular latching control switch wires in and from the handle bars. Damn mess… unless you mitigate by separating the true auxiliaries you cobble together to some where else. Worse it makes you buy their stuff of this so it matches “the look” but they don”t offer matching latching switch inserts. I think they are Germans, company design and production based in Berlin, and know what they are doing engineering wise but chose to trick there customers with this really not well integrated system. So you are forced to use their way… like running a military with tactical finesse but with zero strategic plan. A losing strategy when you know your real adversaries have strategic bombing as there primary plan. So why fight forevermore the Franco-Preußen War… over and over!
I will share, as I have time, my wiring harness adaption for my bike… using ribbon wiring to good effect… sort of like they had to do with the F35 plane when they found they had no room to install the wiring. Turns out cleaner and easier than other looming methods… All the best!
Nice project. Was thinking the same for my bike. For the handlebar side, the T-Display S3 ESP32S3 would be great. The motogadget scope is very expensive and this could easily handle all the handlebar controls and speedo outputs that could be fantastic looking and small
Thanks! 😊 I have a fully working prototype now, but it does not include speedometer and tachometer -yet! My original plan was to use it in addition to an aftermarket speedo/tach-meter, but I do consider using a slightly bigger display - perhaps color display - and include all features needed into it 🤔
@@kihestad yes. That would be great, I think. I have one of these on the way and intend to cnc machine an enclosure for handlebars. If you haven't seen, have a look at this: ruclips.net/video/AxJ3pf8yh5s/видео.html
Yes I have seen these. They are very smart. I would like to have a circular screen, very bright and a bit bigger, but that had not been easy to find.
Nice system. would be OK on the bike I'm currently building for my daughter.
Thanks 😊 I am looking forward to continue on it, had to pause this project for a while. I have made the first working prototype, but I got so many ideas for added functionality so I am now working on version 2.0 😊
Love it. I've been looking at a smilar solution.
There is one thing I don't like and that's the relays.
I've been looking for a solid state solution, with no luck so far.
My project has been on halt for a couple of years now but hope to pick it up soon.
We are in the "same boat" as we say here in Norway 😁I have been looking for solid state switch modules for Arduino myself without finding anything usable, so I just went with the "old" traditional relay module. However, I have got help from @Ramjet from Australia that suggested a solution. If everything turns out a solid state solution might replace the relays. I have a Discord channel you can join to take a closer look: discord.gg/ccT6R4EF
P-channel MOSFETs. N-Channel are more reliable, but in these low-voltage, moderate-current installations a high-side (that is, in the positive lead) P-Channel switch will work well. Look for automotive rated and a minimal 50v rating. The "drive" is low to the gate, so typically you'd just invert the existing output at the microcontroller GPIO pin.
Impressive 😀
Awesome video! Is it possible to add self canceling turn signals? I owned a bajaj pulsar 180 which has the self cancel turn signal feature. So when I turn the handle bar to left or right, it will automatically turn off in a couple of seconds..
Yes, I have added a gyroscope/ accelerometer to the computer in the latest version. It will make it possible to program auto cancelling turn signals and auto break signal (flashing) as well.
رائع، thx for explaining
I hope it made sense 😁
Nice T shout to Taylor @ClassicOctane
I love your channel. How's the cafe racer coming along? You haven't posted an update in a long time. I'm also building a cafe racer and got a lot of help from your channel. I love your wiring diagram but I'm wondering about the charging portion of the system. Do you have a diagram for the alternator to the rectifier/regulator? I'm specifically wondering how to wire the regulator/rectifier into the system properly. Three yellow wires into the regulator/rectifier and three out (red, green and black). Pretty sure the red goes back to the positive side of the batter but I'm not sure exactly what to do with the black and green?
Thanks 😁 I had to take a break from my Honda cafe racer build because of other projects (my shed), and then I bought a new bike (the Cagiva) and I want to get it prepared for the spring season. I will however be continuing on the build pretty soon now, the wiring and getting it started are the first tasks!
I have the original wiring diagram for the bike, I can upload it to GIT and share link to it later today when I am back home (it should be possible to find it using Google search as well). The yellow wires should be left alone, it is AC power from the alternator to the regulator rectifier that is converted to DC power. You are correct about the red one, it goes to the battery for charging. The bike delivers at least 14.5 Volts and around 5 Amps if I remember correct, perhaps even more on high rpm. If you switch to Lithium batteries you must make sure they can handle this, or you need to regulate it. The green one is direct to ground. The black one is 12V input to the regulator from the ignition switch.
@@kihestad Thanks so much for getting back to me. I did switch to a lithium battery and bought a new regulator/rectifier suitable for lithium. As I understand it the lithium regulator keeps the volts at safe levels for the battery. I removed the ignition switch completely from the system and instead wired in a secret switch off the batteries positive terminal after my fuse box. This switch opens all circuits including engaging the starter solenoid. With this setup should I send the Black to ground? Beyond converting AC to DC I guess I ultimately don't quite understand how a rectifier/regulator works and therefore don't know what to do with the black wire. Does the black wire provide power to lighting circuits while the bike is running? Maybe I should connect it to the system after my secret switch?
I have uploaded the wiring diagram for my bike here (cannot say for sure if this is the same on yours, might depend on model make and year): github.com/KIHestad/Ctrl-MC/blob/main/Documents/Honda%20CB400N%20CB250N%20Original%20Wiring%20Diagram.png
On these old Honda motorcycles green wires goes to normally direct to ground. Red are typically constant 12V positive lead, while black and other colors are connected to fuses, switches or sensors providing ground or 12V depending on a switch (or sensor) are on or off. Since you have bought a new regulator/rectifier you really need to connect it according to the vendors specifications. The rectifier part transforms AC power to DC, the regulator makes sure the output voltage are within correct range. Remember that the original ignition switch for these bikes has two switches built into it, one connects 12V while the other connects to ground. It will require some rewiring if you replace it with a single 12V switch.
It can be tricky to figure out how to do these things, and hard to give absolute guidance on how you should connect your wires without seeing the complete wiring. Just take your time and study the wiring diagram and you will figure it out! 👍
Hi. Cloud you make a tutorial for that controller? I need to reduce wire and your solution is perfect!!
Yes, that is the plan. It will take a while though, I have a working prototype but I have planned some improvements.
Nice. Using Oled and Nano Every for my Monster, but measures 0-60 and 0-100 times.
Cool 😎 Do you use a hall-sensor connected to the Nano and a magnet on the wheel to measure the speed?
@@kihestad YES. Have tested with both 5v and 12v Hall sensors. Did use gps but reaction time delay not feasible. When measuring acceleration wheel movement in combination with millisecond circumference clocking results in accurate 0-100 KM/H results. Maybe gps also not legal in certain countries.
@@CasaMaryParadise Very nice 👍 I will probably try to add a speedometer option to my project as well
This is fantastic! Im a developer turned product manager and motorcycle builder. I’d love to help out in any way. Im going to order these components and try to to install on a build im working on. Looking forward to contributing!
That is great! 👍😊 It's a link in the description to a Discord channel and to the project filed on GitHub. I am sorry to say that I had to take a break from the project for a while, but I hope to continue on it very soon!
Måtte dele denne👌👍
Del i vei 👍☺️
Hi, what is the status of the bike build please. I'm following your bike videos, excellent examples in how to actually build the parts.
Thanks
Hi, I had to prioritize some other projects for a while - almost a year actually 😫 I have made a working prototype of the motorcycle computer. I did learn a lot during the process, and I have decided to build a prototype version 2 with even more features and replace the the mechanical relays with MOSFET's instead (also called solid state relays).
Hope to be able to continue on the build very soon. I am almost done with a big garage upgrade, and then it's back to the Honda build! 😊
Am i correct in assuming that you are from sweden?
That's very close, good guessing. I'm from Norway 😊🇳🇴
@@kihestad well then we are neighbours
If anyone has done a PNP solution like this, I'd love to trial it in New Zealand.
It will probably not be plug and play, but hope to share a complete DIY solution eventually
This to me seems like a first class method
Glad you liked it! 😊
This Will Be Big, I Will try to make it.
Great 👍 I am almost done with my first prototype. Will post a follow up video soon ☺️
Ya buddy that M-unit is tooo rich
For my wallet
Yes, pretty expensive 🥴
very risky with parts that are not made for automotive, vibration, heat, cold, dust, water, voltage fluctuation....the system must run 100%. An outfall during riding is a nightmare.
You are spot on! 👍👍👍 This is also my biggest concern. I have learned so far that the microcontrollers operating at very low voltage/current is sensible to electrical noise, and do not like long cables. That is the reason I now have two microcontrolles with a serial cable for communication between them. This will be shielded and the communication cables are type twisted pair. I have also built data communication checksum algorithms (CRC), the system triggers regularly handshake commands to ensure that the communication and both units are working as intended. I can trigger retry commands if communication fails, and send alert on the display if something goes wrong. I have now reliable communication between the units with a 2 meter cable, in theory Arduinos can have reliable communication up to 2km using the serial signals 🙄 Some Arduinos come with support for CAN-bus as well, the protocol used for communication in cars, but it is more or less the same as the serial communication I am using.
How the electronics will cope with the physical environment will be exiting to see, I will be the guinea pig 😁I am not sure if the Arduino platform differs that much from electrics you find in the automotive industry, I think Arduinos are used in industrial applications as well. I will do my best to find components that are reliable, this is the topic that I care about and I have to make the system reliable, if I cannot make that happen I'll let you know! Hoping for the best 😋
@@kihestad thanks fo your detailed answer. I also thought many times about to make something similar for my old cafe racers. At least i let it because i´m not the big expert and it takes lot of time. I would be happy if works and sure one of your first customer.👍
🤞🤞🤞
Potting the Arduino would be a solution to vibration, water etc. For the cost of an Arduino, you could have 2 of them side by side, for redundancy
I had to check out 'potting', interesting 👍 I hope redundancy is not needed, but absolutely an alternative. Thanks for the tips!
it is something big, I'll give you $250 to send me a kit.
Hehe, I hope to be able to do that one day 😁 Still working on it! Well, the project has been paused for a while now, but soon to be continued
Any links for the list of goodies required? I’m down to the wiring right now, and I really would prefer to use the stuff you have put together
this is perfect for my bike as well 😀
I need this guy to rebuild my electronics on my old project 😩🦾🔧
I am on it 😊
@kihestad I see you live in Norway 🇳🇴 I.m in Norway too 🇳🇴😅Stavanger
kjekt at du er her 👍👍👍😊
@@fjfuturejunior Stavanger er en flott by!!! 😊 Hvilken motorsykkel har du?
@@kihestad har en Suzuki katana 650 ombygd i caffee racer
Tøft 👍