New to Leica, as a lifetime Nikon gal. Thanks for this video as I did glean some tips for shooting with my new to me 246 mono, I love shooting with a Leica something special about it.
Great video which is IMO a must for a M240 newbie to watch. I love the step-by-step menu settings to shoot with EVF in B&W. I made a few changes regarding my own preference: I set the maximum ISO from Auto to 1600 and also set the metering mode from classic to automatic. Regarding VF-2, there remains a little gap between socket and insert from VF-2 when looking from the side even the VF-2 is fully pushed into the hotshoe. Supposedly the same gap is seen with the identical Leica EVF.
A True OG Review! Thank you for sharing your thoughts with us. Did you now that you can push the set button without pushing the info button before? Also if you push info during the live view, it will give you the virtual horizon. Hope you will enjoy this faboulous camera at least as long as the M5 :)
A couple things to note: Using the EVF or Live VIew on the rear screen of the camera requires a change in metering method. The camera will no longer be metering off the shutter curtain in a classic Leica center weighted method, but off the sensor instead. Secondly, the responsiveness of the shutter suffers slightly when using the EVF or Live VIew as compared to having it set to Classic Metering mode. If you turn on the camera and you hear it make a noise like the shutter tripping, it is metering off the sensor, and the shutter curtain has now been opened to allow this, resulting in less responsiveness. If you want to meter off the shutter curtain, classic center-weighted style, and improve responsiveness, there are some menu choices that must be made, and you must not turn on the EVF or LV screen.
Thanks for this comment. As a new user of a M-E 240 with VF-2 this was helpful. I checked in the camera manual, and it seems what you refer to is that that metering method has to be changed from "Classic" to "Advanced" since the metering is directly done with the sensor. Are you referring to additional changes in case you want to use just the rangefinder without LV/EVF in classic style mode?
Martin's Analog Photo Channel for the best shutter response time, and the classic Leica metering all previous Leicas have used, use the rangefinder window only, no EVF or LV, camera set to Classic or Classic/LV disabled (under Light Metering Mode) in the Main Menu and by pressing the SET button, another menu option to check is exposure metering. Should be at Center weighted. This will ensure metering is done off the shutter curtain. In the preview of the picture taken, there is a small icon left of the recorded ISO setting, that shows what metering mode has been used. Verify it there against the images in the manual.
OverDubb Mine is the Cat. 11823. Can’t tell what year it was made but it’s fairly new. Unlike the old versions of this lens, this one has a non-rotating mount which means you can set the aperture at any time without upsetting the focus, very easy to work with. Great little lens, excellent picture quality, collapses into the M240 body no problems. Comes with the small lens hood which makes lots of sense. Best value in a Leica M 50mm lens for an M240, rather than spending big for something faster.
Derek Leath Hi Derek, yes the MTyp240 works great with the 50/2.8 Elmar collapsible lens, it’s a very sharp lens with excellent contrast. But you can’t collapse this lens into the M5 body or you’ll damage the meter swinging arm.
One of the most stupid statements that has been made about a digital camera sensor sensitivity. You can not alter a sensors sensitivity to light because it is a fixed value called quantum efficiency of the sensor This digital iso malarkey is just an arbitrary measure of the gain of the amplifiers before the signal, analoguebsignal of the sensor is sent to the on-board ADC to convert to zeros and ones, so the microprocessor can process them and make an image. without that gain there will be no image displayed on the LCD screen.
Yes - what you are saying is true - the sensor has its own innate ‘sensitivity’ which is not actually affected by changing the camera’s ISO setting. So it would be more technically correct, in order to avoid your ‘digital ISO malarkey’, to describe the control instead as ‘gain’, correct? And then users would say, “oh yes, GAIN, but what does that mean?” And you’d explain by saying “Well, when you RAISE the gain to a HIGHER number value then you get a grainier look in your pictures, with slightly reduced definition, weaker colouration, and lower contrast, and you get an opposite effect when you REDUCE the gain number value instead.” And the user would say, “Oh yes, that’s just the same as changing ‘ISO’ in the old days of film photography! Why didn’t you say so?”
@@enLARGE.darkroom This ' confusion ', and I am being kind here, was originally caused by the marketing people in the early stages of the design of digital cameras. They wanted familiarity with terms used in film photography, so they opted to call it ISO, rather than the proper term GAIN. They also conveniently forgot to tell people that the sensor at the heart of a digital camera is actually an analogue device. The conversion to digital takes place by the ADC. The increase in iso in a digital imaging device, simply amplifies the signal, good signal and bad signal or noise at the same time., and as a consequence a decrease in dynamic range. Then it is up to the processor within the camera and sophisticated algorithms and noise profiling to try and clean the signal and give the impression that digital is clean and sharp. Best to tell people the truth, I think.
@@enLARGE.darkroom This is the right answer. Adding the lengthy step of "well, actually!" to what is standard nomenclature for 99.9% of users is a waste of everyone's time and energy. You made the right call, as everyone has for decades now.
I love shooting with BW with color option. Thank you for sharing Andrew
A masterclass of information sharing, oh and a lovely Leica
New to Leica, as a lifetime Nikon gal. Thanks for this video as I did glean some tips for shooting with my new to me 246 mono, I love shooting with a Leica something special about it.
Excellent tip about the back button ISO, very useful, thanks!
Great video which is IMO a must for a M240 newbie to watch. I love the step-by-step menu settings to shoot with EVF in B&W. I made a few changes regarding my own preference: I set the maximum ISO from Auto to 1600 and also set the metering mode from classic to automatic. Regarding VF-2, there remains a little gap between socket and insert from VF-2 when looking from the side even the VF-2 is fully pushed into the hotshoe. Supposedly the same gap is seen with the identical Leica EVF.
Thank you Andrew that was so very helpful. Really like this profile.
Thank you for sharing this! Very interesting!
Excellent review!
Really informative. Does work on Leica M9 also?
Sorry, I don’t know whether it works on M9, as I don’t have an M9.
A True OG Review! Thank you for sharing your thoughts with us. Did you now that you can push the set button without pushing the info button before? Also if you push info during the live view, it will give you the virtual horizon. Hope you will enjoy this faboulous camera at least as long as the M5 :)
A couple things to note: Using the EVF or Live VIew on the rear screen of the camera requires a change in metering method. The camera will no longer be metering off the shutter curtain in a classic Leica center weighted method, but off the sensor instead. Secondly, the responsiveness of the shutter suffers slightly when using the EVF or Live VIew as compared to having it set to Classic Metering mode. If you turn on the camera and you hear it make a noise like the shutter tripping, it is metering off the sensor, and the shutter curtain has now been opened to allow this, resulting in less responsiveness. If you want to meter off the shutter curtain, classic center-weighted style, and improve responsiveness, there are some menu choices that must be made, and you must not turn on the EVF or LV screen.
Brent Buchner Yes that’s correct! Using the EVF reduces the camera’s response time, but that’s the cost of using it!
Thanks for this comment. As a new user of a M-E 240 with VF-2 this was helpful. I checked in the camera manual, and it seems what you refer to is that that metering method has to be changed from "Classic" to "Advanced" since the metering is directly done with the sensor. Are you referring to additional changes in case you want to use just the rangefinder without LV/EVF in classic style mode?
Martin's Analog Photo Channel for the best shutter response time, and the classic Leica metering all previous Leicas have used, use the rangefinder window only, no EVF or LV, camera set to Classic or Classic/LV disabled (under Light Metering Mode) in the Main Menu and by pressing the SET button, another menu option to check is exposure metering. Should be at Center weighted. This will ensure metering is done off the shutter curtain. In the preview of the picture taken, there is a small icon left of the recorded ISO setting, that shows what metering mode has been used. Verify it there against the images in the manual.
@@bbuchner yes, using the rangefinder is obvious here. I am using exactly those settings here as you described, thanks!
Nice to know I’m not the only one with a faded Info button 😁
Nice collapsible lens on your M! I’ve been wanting one but Leica warns against them. Which lens is it?
Thank you for the great info.
OverDubb Mine is the Cat. 11823. Can’t tell what year it was made but it’s fairly new. Unlike the old versions of this lens, this one has a non-rotating mount which means you can set the aperture at any time without upsetting the focus, very easy to work with. Great little lens, excellent picture quality, collapses into the M240 body no problems. Comes with the small lens hood which makes lots of sense. Best value in a Leica M 50mm lens for an M240, rather than spending big for something faster.
Does it work ok with collapsible lens?
Derek Leath Hi Derek, yes the MTyp240 works great with the 50/2.8 Elmar collapsible lens, it’s a very sharp lens with excellent contrast. But you can’t collapse this lens into the M5 body or you’ll damage the meter swinging arm.
One of the most stupid statements that has been made about a digital camera sensor sensitivity. You can not alter a sensors sensitivity to light because it is a fixed value called quantum efficiency of the sensor This digital iso malarkey is just an arbitrary measure of the gain of the amplifiers before the signal, analoguebsignal of the sensor is sent to the on-board ADC to convert to zeros and ones, so the microprocessor can process them and make an image. without that gain there will be no image displayed on the LCD screen.
Yes - what you are saying is true - the sensor has its own innate ‘sensitivity’ which is not actually affected by changing the camera’s ISO setting. So it would be more technically correct, in order to avoid your ‘digital ISO malarkey’, to describe the control instead as ‘gain’, correct? And then users would say, “oh yes, GAIN, but what does that mean?” And you’d explain by saying “Well, when you RAISE the gain to a HIGHER number value then you get a grainier look in your pictures, with slightly reduced definition, weaker colouration, and lower contrast, and you get an opposite effect when you REDUCE the gain number value instead.” And the user would say, “Oh yes, that’s just the same as changing ‘ISO’ in the old days of film photography! Why didn’t you say so?”
@@enLARGE.darkroom This ' confusion ', and I am being kind here, was originally caused by the marketing people in the early stages of the design of digital cameras. They wanted familiarity with terms used in film photography, so they opted to call it ISO, rather than the proper term GAIN. They also conveniently forgot to tell people that the sensor at the heart of a digital camera is actually an analogue device. The conversion to digital takes place by the ADC. The increase in iso in a digital imaging device, simply amplifies the signal, good signal and bad signal or noise at the same time., and as a consequence a decrease in dynamic range. Then it is up to the processor within the camera and sophisticated algorithms and noise profiling to try and clean the signal and give the impression that digital is clean and sharp. Best to tell people the truth, I think.
@@enLARGE.darkroom This is the right answer. Adding the lengthy step of "well, actually!" to what is standard nomenclature for 99.9% of users is a waste of everyone's time and energy. You made the right call, as everyone has for decades now.