Good comparison. I shoot a ton of the Ektascan B/RA in both 8x10 and 4x10. I have stockpiled it over the years and now that it's no longer available there is also Fuji UM-MA which offers very similar characteristics to B/RA and is also a single-sided emulsion available from zzmedical here in the U.S. There is a video here on YT that demonstrates stripping the second emulsion side using diluted household bleach and that sometimes helps mitigate the softness (and some of the scratching) that comes with a double-sided emulsion like Fuji HR-T/HR-U.
I did quite a few tests stripping the emulsion several years ago. Definitely helped with sharpness issue, but I could no longer make carbon transfer prints from them as the density range was literally cut in half. Thanks for the tips on the other emulsions! Cheers!
What exposure times do you need for double sided Xray film? Do they need to be exposed for longer compared to standard film in the same situation, or shorter?
The stuff that I have been using has an ISO of around 80. So, it's just like any conventional film with a similar ISO. If I have Tmax 100, I use the same ISO on my light metre. So Sunny 16 f/16@1/60
I've never used X-Ray film. I agree with your conclusions, except I'd need convincing on double-sided film for anything. Except for the last shot of the tree, where I can see an argument for the X-Ray film, I much preferred the HP5 photos. Interesting, helpful video. Thanks.
Very good work. Y use this xray film too but develop with AGFA 30 Let me know at how many ASA do you expose??? Best regards from a collegue of ARGENTINA
Yes, but if you use it straight, the negative will be very dense. If you dilute the D-76, it'll be easier to control negative densities. You'll have to experiment to see which dilution works better. I'd start at 1+1. When I use D-23 at 1+1, my development time is about 6 minutes...D-23 is a softer working developer, so probably the D-76 times will be shorter.
@@analogueandy8x10 I’m using Fujifilm Xray film. Blue sensitive. I’m not producing an image. I’m also using Agfa film with a notch and I am getting results. I have two packages of double sided film that I can’t get to work. My results are clear negatives to dark negatives with no images.
@@jrmorganpetro what EI are you using for the double-sided? I'm using CXS Ortho Green. I usually expose it at EI 80, and develop in either Pyrocat-HD or D-23 1+1. What developer are you using? Dilution? The dark negatives without any image is very strange... and sometimes they are clear? I also use a single-sided xray. Ektascan. I also shoot that at EI 80.
Tim Hortons...eh! And you lived to tell the tale (opps!) Hey, I have just purchased some Fuji "New RX" x-ray film (expired 1999) can it still Rock an' Roll? Hmmm Tim Hortons....,uh oh...,the nearest one is in Taranto...,you mean I gotta drive all the way to the Italian boot for a cup of Joe? ,Sheesh....,
😆 I'll bet it's still fine to use, but it really depends on how it was stored. I'm working through a box that expired in 2007, and there is zero base fog...and it was stored in a drawer! I was just in Japan and enjoyed many visits to my favourite doughnut chain, Mr. Donut... all washed down with free coffee refills!
Thank you Andy
You're welcome! Glad you found my channel!
Nice presentation.
Good comparison. I shoot a ton of the Ektascan B/RA in both 8x10 and 4x10. I have stockpiled it over the years and now that it's no longer available there is also Fuji UM-MA which offers very similar characteristics to B/RA and is also a single-sided emulsion available from zzmedical here in the U.S. There is a video here on YT that demonstrates stripping the second emulsion side using diluted household bleach and that sometimes helps mitigate the softness (and some of the scratching) that comes with a double-sided emulsion like Fuji HR-T/HR-U.
I did quite a few tests stripping the emulsion several years ago. Definitely helped with sharpness issue, but I could no longer make carbon transfer prints from them as the density range was literally cut in half. Thanks for the tips on the other emulsions! Cheers!
As usual you are humorous and expert. Keep it up.
Great video. Thank you
RS. Canada
Thanks Andy
That was fun!!!
Thank you, Stephen!
Did you mislabel the last pair? I see one labeled HP5 has the curves corners associated with X-Ray film
Good catch! It looks like I did. Sadly there is no way to correct it in the video, but I can mention it in the description above. Thank you!!
What exposure times do you need for double sided Xray film? Do they need to be exposed for longer compared to standard film in the same situation, or shorter?
The stuff that I have been using has an ISO of around 80. So, it's just like any conventional film with a similar ISO. If I have Tmax 100, I use the same ISO on my light metre. So Sunny 16 f/16@1/60
I've never used X-Ray film. I agree with your conclusions, except I'd need convincing on double-sided film for anything. Except for the last shot of the tree, where I can see an argument for the X-Ray film, I much preferred the HP5 photos. Interesting, helpful video. Thanks.
Very good work. Y use this xray film too but develop with AGFA 30 Let me know at how many ASA do you expose??? Best regards from a collegue of ARGENTINA
Hi Gerardo! Thanks for watching and commenting. A very good friend of mine is from Argentina. I shoot this xray film at ASA/ISO 80.
Hello! Can I use D-76 for developing X-ray film?
Yes, but if you use it straight, the negative will be very dense. If you dilute the D-76, it'll be easier to control negative densities. You'll have to experiment to see which dilution works better. I'd start at 1+1. When I use D-23 at 1+1, my development time is about 6 minutes...D-23 is a softer working developer, so probably the D-76 times will be shorter.
Bravo, have questions tho
I'd be happy to take a stab at answering them!
@@analogueandy8x10 I’m using Fujifilm Xray film. Blue sensitive. I’m not producing an image. I’m also using Agfa film with a notch and I am getting results. I have two packages of double sided film that I can’t get to work. My results are clear negatives to dark negatives with no images.
@@jrmorganpetro what EI are you using for the double-sided? I'm using CXS Ortho Green. I usually expose it at EI 80, and develop in either Pyrocat-HD or D-23 1+1. What developer are you using? Dilution? The dark negatives without any image is very strange... and sometimes they are clear? I also use a single-sided xray. Ektascan. I also shoot that at EI 80.
@@analogueandy8x10 Fujifilm blue sensitive film and Rodinal at 1:50
@@jrmorganpetro you should not have any issues with Rodinal 1+50. I've used it and got good results. But... what EI are you shooting the film at?
Tim Hortons...eh! And you lived to tell the tale (opps!) Hey, I have just purchased some Fuji "New RX" x-ray film (expired 1999) can it still Rock an' Roll? Hmmm Tim Hortons....,uh oh...,the nearest one is in Taranto...,you mean I gotta drive all the way to the Italian boot for a cup of Joe? ,Sheesh....,
😆 I'll bet it's still fine to use, but it really depends on how it was stored. I'm working through a box that expired in 2007, and there is zero base fog...and it was stored in a drawer! I was just in Japan and enjoyed many visits to my favourite doughnut chain, Mr. Donut... all washed down with free coffee refills!
Co ciekawe wszyscy ktorych znam (Polska) robia odwrotnie bialy po naswietleniu czarny - nienaswietlony.
Haha those edits! what's your problem man... :D:D:D