6 Months Review - iSpring Whole House Filtration Water System
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 23 июл 2024
- Well it has not gone as well as expected, I am going over 6 months using the iSpring Whole House Filtration Water System as well as removing the filters to show you how they looked. I am also installing a new iSpring flushable sediment filter to my system to see if this would help...
I have to say that iSpring has been super helpful along the way, their customer service has been present all along the way, sending me replacement filters and giving me ideas on what could be done.
All the tools I use and recommend :
Metabo Air Compressor : amzn.to/3y5vKtj
Metabo Framing Nail Gun : amzn.to/3rWmC94
Metabo Palm Nailer : amzn.to/3GmpNuO
Metabo Finish Nail Gun : amzn.to/3lPeAuZ
Metabo Brad Nail Gun : amzn.to/3rMstxI
Metabo Air Hose : amzn.to/30bqFDg
Dewalt Impact Driver : amzn.to/3y9JnI3
Dewalt Drill : amzn.to/3GrC8Ot
Dewalt Circular Saw : amzn.to/3IBaArC
Dewalt Reciprocating Saw (Compact) : amzn.to/3DEBaMO
Dewalt Reciprocating Saw (Heavy Duty) : amzn.to/30aZLLK
Dewalt Jigsaw : amzn.to/3rPgAY6
Dewalt Grinder : amzn.to/3dwug1N
Dewalt Jobsite LED Light : amzn.to/3IvhuPl
Dewalt High Capacity Batteries : amzn.to/31y4uId
Laser Self Leveler 360 : amzn.to/3Iygvh7
DISCLAIMER
Most of the product links are Amazon affiliate links, where I earn a small commission from purchases at no cost to you. Thanks for watching!
Content of the video :
00:00 - Intro
00:16 - 6 Months Review
03:35 - New Flushable Filter
04:37 - Replace Existing Filters
05:25 - Install New Flushable Sediment Filter
06:34 - Replace Filters
07:24 - 2 Weeks Follow Up 
Хобби
Some points of interest...
There are two main types of iron, ferric and ferrous. Ferric is the large particulate iron that contributes to your turbidity. Ferrous is dissolved iron that will go right through your sediment filters. This then oxidizes when it hits air and that's why your clear water turned brown.
That spin down filter should only be used on SAND type turbidity, not Ferris (super sticky) iron. You need a backwashing media filter that has a cleaning cycle for longevity and way better results.
The Ferrous iron is taken out of the water two ways. Oxidize it and then use a physical filter like you have. Or use ion exchange (softener).
A softener would be a better solution than that special iron filter they sent.
Remember, you only have so much time to think about things, don't make your water treatment maintenance harder than it has to be. There are filters that do all of this stuff automatically, minimize filter waste, and give you peace of mind that it's a lasting solution.
Whaouh Kevin, thank you so much for such a detailed comment; I do completely agree with you, unfortunately it took me 6 months+ and speaking with several local well and water companies to come to this similar conclusion.
You are right that this ferris iron is sticky and may probably block the flushable sediment filter.
I guess what I had never thought of and that you clearly explained is that I have both ferris and ferrous iron! I had never thought of it this way but it does make complete sense now.
I am considering a backwashing system as it is becoming clear that this will be the best option. You mentioned a water softener which I know can take care of Iron to some extent but maybe not to my level (almost 4PPM). What about those specific IRON and MANGANESE backwashing systems such as the one from iSpring; do you have any experience with those?
Once again, thank you for your comment. This is truly helping me.
@@TheDIYCabinGuy 4ppm isn't that high, I've dealt with 20 plus. Here's a setup that works great.
Bw Filter- big blue cartridge 5 mic- softener.
If I had 4ppm I'd get a basic backwashing filter and put 1 of two media options inside. Filter ag or macrolite. Filter ag is available over the counter and macrolite can be bought through your local kinetico dealership.
An 8 inch tank with a very basic electric valve is a good solution. Expect to replace the piston and seals on the valve every 3 to 5 years (about 65 dollars)
Filter agg and macrolite can be recharged (every 2 years or so) with rust out or iron out. They are the same thing. Macrolite is my personal choice but expensive and hard to get. Kinetico will ask you why you want it etc...
If you want to know the level of ferrous iron then take a sample after the physical filtration.
The big blue after the backwashing filter is a particulate scrubber. 5 microns is extremely small.
After that a softener will easily remove the rest of the iron. Any softener will do but the size matters.
After your physical filtration there won't be 4 ppm of iron it will be reduced greatly in your case it sounds like.
There are a few dual tank softener options out there. Kinetico is non electric and there are electric options as well.
Getting a dual tank softener will allow one tank to be on stand by and the other in use. When one tank is in backwash, it uses fresh water from the other tank to do so. This greatly reduces water and salt usage and highly increases the iron removal effectiveness. I can get into it more if you'd like but this is already long winded enough.
The formula for calculating your wells compensated hardness (iron plus manganese plus hardness) is
3(iron)+5(manganese)+hardness. All in ppm
Kinetico for example, assigns a compensated hardness rating for all their softeners. An s250xp has a compensated hardness of 64. So an example would be...
You have
3 ppm of iron
10 ppm. Hardness
1 ppm manganese
3(5)+10+1(5)=30
30 is the compensated hardness and will be easily handled by an s250xp from kinetico.
Other brands should have that if you call their tech line .
@@kevinwentworth6500 once again, thank you for such a detailed response. I probably had to read it several times and google a few things but I do now understand your plan.
I’m not gonna lie, there are so many bw systems out there with their own custom filter media that it makes it hard to see what would work best.
It does not look like there is any kinetico vendor around my area so I’m not sure that id be able to get any of their stuff.
Let me ask you this, I have had several local companies wanted to do the following :
Bw iron and manganese filter such as the sterling oxy3 (I was also looking at the ispring WCFM500K or the Watts Filox or the Pro-OX iron filter 5900 BT from clean water store.com). Is there any reason why this would be a bad idea?
I know understand your plan which is to get rid of the ferric iron with a simple bw sediment filter which apparently will clean the water down to maybe 20 micron, then the 5 micron big blue filter will take care of the rest (I’m worried that this will get caked pretty fast as it’s a simple mechanical filtration with no backwashing) and then the water softener to remove the dissolved ferrous iron.
Some of the models I mentioned claim to remove turbidity and suspended solids all the way down to 3 microns but I’m curious if they’d work with ferric iron which is very sticky?
Anyway, I’m trying to use models that are readily available online without the need to go through some approved retailer if possible.
Hey there, I hope you don't mind my jumping in here just that you seem so well versed. My well water leaves a yellow stain on shower, etc. It also turns into black slime! I drained my garden hoses and black slime came pouring out it also builds up on my room size humidifier. I'm ready to start talking to vendors but want to know the answer before I ask them the question. Can you help?
DIY Cabin Guy: Thanks for the excellent testimony! You might consider swapping out filters to include two for iron and one carbon, because if you don’t have black manganese stains, you don’t need the manganese filter.
Being from Southwest Louisiana, where all of my aunts, uncles and grandparents spoke French from birth and had to learn English to go to school, I am enjoying your accent. Great video on how to get rid of sediment before your iSpring filter system. Love watching your sexy smiling face. Keep up the great work my friend! 😎
😂thanks
Hey! Thanks for the thorough review and for testing with us! It means so much for our team to see our tests used in the real world. 👨🔬
Are you with Simple Lab?
@@TheDIYCabinGuy That's right! Sorry for the slow reply, I was so sure I already replied. If you need a water test in the future, shoot me a message and I'll be happy to arrange it for you. :-)
@@mytapscoreplaceholder sounds good! I’m still trying to figure out the situation. I think I’m getting closer! The water test has definitely been very helpful in leading me in the right direction.
@@TheDIYCabinGuy Hoping the new improvements will lead to a positive update! Since you tested the unfiltered water already we'd be happy to sponsor you with a follow-up test for your next video for free. That way you can compare the performance of the new filters to the unfiltered water. We'd certainly be curious to see the results!
@@mytapscoreplaceholder that would be awesome and a great way to see how the new setup will be performing. It’ll be several weeks before I get to it as I’m currently focusing on building a cabin. What’s the best way to reach out to you once I get ready to test the water ?
The spin down's going to help for sure. I dont like a melt blown as a first stage welll filter due to the variable size of the sediment blocking its pores - they work much better as secondary or final stages where the small sediment size can actually penetrate the media, As a first stage I'd use a multi density string wound with something like a 20-5um.
Can't wait to see the results. I have similar water and I'm looking into this system
Ginger, spoiler alert, the new filters got shot within 4 weeks 😢. I think the only solution for me is going to be a much heavier duty system and expensive unfortunately.
@ghee cappy that’s a good point. I did engage with several local well companies and they pretty much told me that doing this could be hit or miss. Maybe it could get better but maybe it would not. So several thousands of dollars of work for no guaranteed results.
Sir, thank You for taking the time to do this very educational video, GREAT JOB!!! PLEASE stay healthy and safe out there!
Thanks !
wow that is a crazy amount of sediment. ive seen people use a very large holding tank to pump the well water into, and then pump from that into the house filters.....it allows a lot of iron and sediment to settle to the bottom so it doesnt go into the filters. with so much sediment youd need one large enough to get inside to clean out because i bet it would get quite full of clay and reduce capacity over time. i think a bubbler in the tank helps the iron to settle out (if i remember right)
Thanks
There is a device called a timer drain. It uses a solenoid to open the valve and let the pipe drain on a timer. That will spare you having to return all the time to that pre-filter. Just plumb the drain into a drain.
"just plumb the drain into a drain"
Yo dawg, I heard you liked drains so we put a drain into your drain so you can drain while you drain
It looks like you have a lot of sediment. I had the same issue and had a well screen/filter in the well installed, and it took care of my sediment issue. I still run my whole house filters, but I don't have the issue of clogged filters.
Thanks for the video!
I lived on a well for a few years. We put in a whole home system (wife's father was a licensed plumber). Our filter was supposed to last for 6 months and we changed every 30 days. It got expensive but the water quality was 100% better. In the end, I would rather a well and change filters every 30 days than city water and all the crap they do to "treat" the water.
That’s a good point, what kind of crap are you referring to for city water ? I thought they had pretty decent filtering systems in place.
@@TheDIYCabinGuy Chlorine and fluoride BTW, thanks for the video. How many microns is your spin filter?
@@dkgrace6743 it’s a 100 microns
i had the exact same problem. for real the same iron clay crap that plugged any filter. I ended up putting in the jumbo I-spring spin down filter as my first line of defense mine is 22 x bigger then the one you are using. Then I put a sediment filter with clear glass, after that I put a hydrogen peroxide iron remover from US water systems. then another sediment filter with a clear glass cover so I could monitor and watch it and now I have zero iron or clay in my water. It’s worked perfectly.
Nice!
@@TheDIYCabinGuy the spin down is computer controlled automatically and flushes once per day for 90 seconds. It’s so much more convenient than doing it manually into a bucket. I have it hooked up to my perimeter drain
You’re filters are working fine. They stopped the sediment is what they are designed to do. Once they become oversaturated. Correct they no longer work. You’ve creating a trap ahead of your filters to extend the life of the filters. That well will always have dirt. You will always have to clean the filters.
Thanks !
Thanks for the review and sorry you are having trouble. I too am installing a three filter unit on my well water supply to my house. I am plugging up a gdo5 single sediment type filter about once a week. I know this is kind of out there but has anyone thought about using a above ground pool filter in front of the whole house filter to catch the majority of the sediment before it hits the sediment filters?
reason being they are large capacity ,cleanable but not sure if they can handle the pressure. Just looking for a cheaper alternative to replacing filters constantly .
That’s a good question, I’m not sure though ! You might have to do some more research.
SlideSugar: I’ve been researching all this because my well has iron and sediment but not manganese. Magnets prevent and actually remove scale, but what will they do for iron? I’ve not read that. Super powerful neodymium magnets are affordable but what else can you advise about reducing iron itself?
Excellent point about the automatic electric flush valve! That’s an idea for iSpring to market-IF THEY’RE LISTENING!
To reduce iron itself, I’m looking at probably installing some backwash filtering system. I think that’ll be the best way in my case.
if I had this much sediment in my water, the first thing i would do is confirm the proper depth of my well pump, maybe the pump is too deep, and needs to be pulled up a few feet. good luck.
Thanks
Good water in our area is at 60ft and our well is 120ft. Driller went through the good water into the rusty stuff. We have a softner system in and nothing else and it does a pretty good job on our house water. We don't drink our water but fill bottles in town that uses a RO system. Bottles are 4 bucks here to fill and the 2 of us use 5 a month. Well water here is.....disolved solids 793, turbidity 11.3, disolved iron 4.2, disolved manganese 1.008. Replacing the softner system and it cost $900 here in canada (expensive country). My plans are to add several sediment filters prior to the softner, carbon filter (maybe) after the softner and an RO system for the kitchen drinkinng tap. Without the softner all our taps get bad calcium buildup and water is brownish. Good luck.
Thanks for that info! Whaou those are high numbers !
@@TheDIYCabinGuy the softner makes for clear water but we don't just like to drink the softened water.
That brown-ish filter is the iron remover, it should go either in the very first bulb or second, after the sediment cartridge, but definitely before the carbon cartridge, carbon cartridge should always be the very last one.
Are you sure of that? Cause I think the brand shows then on their website in the order I installed them (sediment, carbon, iron), I just followed what they were showing
I totally agree! Carbon grabs chemicals and molecules that affect flavor, like a Brita filter, not coarse sediment and iron. iSpring sounds fabulous but could do more to educate customers about how to deal realistically with iron. My well has sediment and iron but no manganese, so hey-I need the sediment screen and the iron module, not manganese!
@@TheDIYCabinGuy: This is just a Lapsus Mentis on the part of iSpring staff, a brain fart! Upon re-examining your situation they’ll acknowledge that carbon should be last.
@@shandor2522 it's also a simple logic, first you need to deal with the solid particles in the water, that's what sediment filter is for, and then you need to deal with unpleasant smell and taste of the water, that's what carbon fiber is for. If the situation with rust in your well is really bad, you need to get some of those big de-ironing devices.
@@tekknorat The simple logic is what others are saying-carbon comes last
How it be safe did you have test strip
first stage use 20 micron washable pleated filter, second stage use washable 1 or 5 micron pleated filter. last stage use a carbon filter. You shouldn't need to change the carbon filter every time, just wash the pleated filters. I have been using the same pleated filter for 6 years, but my sediment is not nearly as bad as yours.
Other option is go with the whole house carbon filter with back wash. my setup is 20 micron pleated, 1 micron pleated, manganese greensand plus, carbon whole house, softener, UV light. Reverse osmosis at the drinking faucets. Water is one of the most important investment.
Thanks
Thanks for making this video! I am in NC(triangle area) and have the same issue with my well water. I was actually looking at this same setup with a UV in line for potential bacteria. A couple of questions for you, 1)what micron is the sediment filter you have(clear glass)? 2)did you find any major concerns with your water after the test?
No problem, glad to hear I’m not the only one with these problems. It’s 100 microns for the flushable filter. Not really, just high iron, some manganese and high turbidity.
It’s been 4 weeks now and it seems like the iron smell might be back...I guess I’ll have to pull the filters to see if they already got clogged.
Do you know how many PPM of iron you have ?
@@TheDIYCabinGuy Thanks for the reply and sorry for the delay in my answer. I just received my water tests and Ill be sending one out for the results and doing an in-home one. Ill make sure to share those results. BTW, Ispring sells a sediment filter combo that flushes automatically. I think you should look into that. You may be able to pair two sediment filters(low micron->high micron) back to back for better results.
@@thepainkillermb that’s a good point. I’m currently still in touch with the ispring customer service and they have mentioned that. Here is my question though, I currently have a 100 microns filter in the flushable and they only go down to 50 microns so would have a 50 microns after the 100 make a noticeable difference ? I am not sold on the idea.
Yes I saw the flushable one, it’s just 4 times the price and I don’t have a drain at that location yet.
I think I’m gonna have to install the large auto flush units, they are just so expensive that I will have to wait.
I’m really trying to understand why the iron filter is failing after only 4 weeks now that I’m taking care of stopping sediments upstream before it would potentially clog all the three downstream filters ...
@@TheDIYCabinGuy I would try the 100 micron first followed by the 50 micron second and see if that makes a difference. I know I have seen a clip by iSpring in the past where that was the setup. Definitely recommend that you contact them as well regarding this configuration. Another option for you(not sure if you currently have it), is to install a reverse osmosis system in the kitchen with a larger tank. I have it installed in our house and its perfect for drinking water and cooking. It also serves as a water backup incase of an electrical(well pump, power outage) or a plumbing problem. hope you get to the bottom of this..
@@thepainkillermb yeah I am waiting to see what the customer service will say. We still have a water cooler with primo water as I don’t trust drinking it. I’ll definitely put a reverse osmosis at some point to use for cooking.
The main annoyance is the taste and smell of iron in the bathroom and the light stain it leaves in the toilets.
your pipe could be a little too low in the well ;have you checked depth of water in well an then put your intake a third of the depth from the bottom?
I got two local well companies involved a few months back, none of them mentioned that unfortunately.
Have you tried raising your intake pipe? It might bring in cleaner water just a few inches higher.
I did not, but could possible help I’m guessing
At the end of video you flushed out sediment from the newly installed filter. But with no cut off valve between the new and prior 3 stage iSpring filters, aren't you back flushing the iSprings which is not something that you want to do?
Yeah I’m not sure, the manufacturer doesn’t usually show a cut of valve between the flushable sediment filter and typical filters.
I’m wondering what is the PH of the water? It might be low which wouldn’t be a surprise. I’m wondering if you could use a neutralizer
I ended up getting a nez system installed, I think my ph was low indeed
Not surprising.
Hey how was your water pressure after they were plugged? Did you lose any?
No necessary the pressure but it might be affecting the water flow.
i currently have a Water Filtration and Water
Conditioner system for my well water, and is thinking about adding a water softerner system
- do you think the water softener system should be added after the water
filter/conditioner system or should it be added before the water
filter/conditioner system?... or it doesn't matter where it goes?
That’s a good question. I think you should ask the manufacturer of the system directly and I’m saying that because I have gotten different advice on systems where the water softener was installed before some filter and after in some other case.
@@TheDIYCabinGuy ok thank you.
depends who installs it lol, i work for culligan and if a system exists already typically we tap in after existing treatment to protect our stuff for longevity purposes and due to the fact existing treatment products can bleed off iron or sulfur and it needs to be fixed after going through original filter
Old thread but you should install the spin-down sediment filter before you water softener and the whole house water filtration system (3-stage) after the water softener.
I never did see a follow-up video on this. How did it work out?
Not so well, ended up getting a backwash system installed and that got everything under control.
Could the problem be that your well is collapsing?
I've heard of it happening before.
Yeah I’m not sure, I had two well companies look at this situation and none mentioned a collapsed well.
@@TheDIYCabinGuy It happened to my neighbor the company cracked/ broke the casing of the well during installation and his water was getting full of red clay and mud.
he had to go to another well company since the one that did the install said thats how well water is supposed to be and they run a camera down his well and sure enough it was all broken to hell.
sediment is normal but after a few days to maybe weeks it should clear up. but thats a little extreme.
I've been using this system for about a year now. I have to change the large sediment filter every 2 or 3 months, but everything works well.
Thank you for the feedback on your system, what does your sediment filter look like when you change it ?
Almost like yours. I'm actually switching out all 3 right now. This makes probably the 4th or 5th large sediment filter, and 3rd for the other two. I installed the small spin-out filter like you have, and I have to clean it every 3 days on average.
@@homelee665 very interesting to hear that you’re in a similar situation. Do you know if you use the 20 or 5 microns sediment filter (I’m talking about the tall ones not the spin down), and do you have 100 or 50 microns for the spin down ?
The tall one I just installed is 5 micron. I think my spin-down is the 50 micron.
@@homelee665 is the 5 micron having any negative effects on your water pressure?
I have the 20 micron sediment and 100 microns spin down. I think I’m gonna get finer replacements like yours. It should help a little more.
I would look for another water source.
looks like you got a well issue, not a purifier issue. I'd dig it deeper.
My second stage leaked ever since I purchased it and iSpring said I needed to buy a whole new set. They would not send me a replacement housing
Oh, sorry to hear that!
Am I missing the update video? Would be very interested in knowing how you fixed it. I have a similar situation going on. Thanks for sharing!
Yes I guess I should do that one day ! Ended up getting a backwash system installed and that fixed the water
@@TheDIYCabinGuy Thanks for the reply, so the backwash by itself worked? Mind saying what kind? appreciate the response!
@@user-nf2kn7fe4j it was installed by a local company, it’s a water softener and then a special iron one, both from a brand called Lancaster
@@TheDIYCabinGuy Thank you! Would love to know specifics on the iron filter. Very much appreciate your responses!
@@user-nf2kn7fe4j I pulled the invoice from then, here are the two units that got installed, Lancaster iron softener 32B and Lancaster LET Xfactor 2B Acid neutralizer with SM.
Hope this helps!
How is the system holding up after the flush-down sediment filter installed? Looking to add something very similar in my home.
Not great unfortunately, the iron issues came back after 4 weeks. I’m confused, now that I’m removing most of the sediment upstream, I really thought that it would extend the other filters’ lifespan. I’m going to do some other plumbing work over the week end will use this as an opportunity to take a look at the filter and see what they look like, (is there smaller sediment that still made their way and clogged everything ?). Other than that, the flushable filter works fine and is stopping a lot of sediments, I’m flushing it every other day.
@@TheDIYCabinGuy sorry to hear that. I'll be following your progress. The 2 videos you made on the ispring install and filter swap-out we're extremely informative and helpful for me. Appreciate it!
@@kangaryu79 glad to hear it! Honestly I think, in my case, I’m going to have to invest in a much more expensive system, those tall free standing filters that backwash automatically but I’ll have to wait because they’re expensive!
@@TheDIYCabinGuy i am looking at those as well. Our iron level is not terribly high but we had bacteria in our water that a coue shock treatment could not address. A UV system was installed but later was told that it's most effective when iron levels are below a certain threshold as to prevent staining which would make the UV treatment ineffective.
@@kangaryu79 let me know what you end up going with. I would love to hear some feedback on those systems, what brands were you looking at ?
I think those filters say replacement 3-6 months.
Curious as to how it worked out with that spin down filter?
It did help to some extent but still not a great long term solution for my situation unfortunately.
I had a similar problem with a deep well. Three submersible pump failures due to clogging with the same crap that’s clogging your filters. My well man talked to the regional well supply house’s experts who said the material was a red bacteria that feeds on iron. All the piping was being crusted internally with it. Pulled the pump and piping and chemically treated the well and everything that was in the well and reinstalled it. The pump failed again in less than a year.
Couldn’t get the well man to come out and fix it so I did it myself. Same red substance was the cause of the failure. I installed a new pump and flexible well discharge piping to the old well head and hung the pump 20 feet shallower (50 feet below the top of the water). Three years later and there’s no sign of that red crap. Pump still works great. I think my pump was hung too near the bottom of the well and flow was stirring up red sediment.
@@wilsonfrye9987 good to hear! What a mess to go through, glad you figured it out.
I’d say you have huge issues with your well water if you can only get 2-3 weeks & your sediment filter looks like putty!
Indeed it seems like my water is really high on ferric and ferrous iron.
Correct sir, this is beyond the filters
@@TheDIYCabinGuy it looks like you have some bacteria building up in your well water, I put a chlorine puck in my well about once a month to kill any bacteria which causes that orange sludge. Those big filters are only actually good for roughly 8000 gallons of well water. The average person uses 50 gallons a day, 8000/50=160 days if you have a family of 4 then 160/4= 40 days that the filter will be good for. I find the string filters will hold more rust.
Is your well pulling from a bad source??
It could
would an aerator help?
Not sure, I ended up getting a backwash system installed and it’s been working great
Could you update us what has happened since? Looks like we have the same water issue and curious if this ended up working or what you ended up doing. TIA
Still did not hold up very well, ended up getting a much bigger system installed with auto back flushing and it seems to be working great so far.
@@TheDIYCabinGuy thanks for responding. im glad you found a solution. Would you mind sharing what ended up working for you... system type and model. You just saved me a bunch of headaches .. thanks again!
@@Devils_Advocate007 it’s a water softener and then something special for iron. Landcaster is the brand.
@@TheDIYCabinGuy Thank you! did you also throw your spindown and big blue in the miix? ie Spindown> softner>ironfilter > big blue? Would love to know which iron unit you got if not too much trouble. Love your cabin vids too btw ;) TIA
@@Devils_Advocate007 Lancaster Iron Softener 32B and Lancaster -LET Xfactor -2B Acid Neutralizer w/SM. Got rid of spin down, still using big blue with just one carbon filter and one sediment filter.
Holy crap !!! If I had water like that coming into my house I’d be moving to somewhere else. My well water is bad but that is almost unusable in a couple days. You need more then just filters , you need a water treatment plant.
😂 yeah that is very unfortunate! I’m still trying to find a long term solution, if even possible.
@@TheDIYCabinGuy wonder if anyone makes a back flushing filter for sediment. It looks almost like clay. Maybe take up pottery turning🤣🤣
@@Propnut48 🤣 better laugh about it than cry about it. Yes that is what I’m looking I to at the moment but trying to confirm with the manufacturer that it will handle all this stuff I’m getting.
@@TheDIYCabinGuy I live in Missouri and have to change my sediment filter every month. I’m getting ready to install a triple 20” c 4.5” filter also. Even going through a carbon filter and a water softener and an oxidizer my TDS readings are still in the 300s. I have to use a zero water pitcher for drinking water. I’m having to learn all this as I moved from California where we had city wide RO water that was in the 20-40 TDS level. Having to get used to septic systems and well water. 😬😬😬😬
@@Propnut48 same here, moved from Houston Tx where we were on city water and sewer. I originally kind of liked the idea of not having to pay sewer fees and water now but I’m obviously spending way more with all this !
I have the exact same system for two years now and it sucks. I have the exact same issue. Ispting told me to remove the filter inside of the Spindown because with the weekly or bi weekly draining the sediment filters were just like your video. So this product isn’t working for me.
I know you made this video 2 years ago so what are you currently using today and do you have a link? Also is your pressure dropping with the new system?
I ended up getting a backwash system installed, this has been working well.
What kind of backwash system did you go with?
@@TheDIYCabinGuy what kind of backwash. Did you keep the three filters or just the backwash?
Hope you did a follow up video like that I can see your new system.
@@jabreu5 it’s two backwash systems and still the three filters at the end.
that means ur well need to fix or new well
Seems like your well pump is too low in your well and is stirring up sediment at bottom of the well.
Can you do an update video on this since it's been three months since you installed it?
I will eventually! Just been really busy building the cabin (if you’ve seen my other videos) but yes this water situation is still a problem I need to figure out and I will definitely do another follow up!
Yea, I need to know if I have to spend $700 or $7000 lol
@@johnsnow34lll i feel you, I’m in the same boat. Still trying to find what I’m gonna get, I just wanted to make sure that it’ll work 100% !
@@TheDIYCabinGuy have you looked into the ispring WF150K. I might do your set up and then it doesn't work add the wf150k. What do you think?
@@johnsnow34lll I’m not too sure Matthew. I was also looking at the WCFM500K but honestly I have in touch with the ispring customer service this whole time and their jaw dropped when they saw the picture of my sediment filter and It did not seem that they were that confident that their central water filter (WF150K, WCFM500K) would be able to handle it.
I have had local companies look at it and quote me on a filtering system but they only install brands that I cannot buy myself as an homeowner…. I’m also in touch with a local water filter company and the guy is about to quote me a system based on my situation, very curious to see what he’s going to come up with!
All in all, I know I’m probably looking at 3k or so to get this stuff and right now I’m really focusing on the cabin so it might be a minute before I get to install an updated system. For now, I’m just going to suck it up and change my filters often enough to make it until I can install a better system.
you need sediment filter abs a softener
Hey so what about the update?
I will eventually make a 12 month follow up, I have just been very busy with building the diy cabin.
I wish I had a company, that sends me free stuff, nearby. 😅
So how did this work out after another 6 months?
It’s been okay but not perfect either, I will get a lot of iron passing through the flushable filter and accumulating on the sediment filter.
I probably will end up installing a more heavy duty system including backwashing.
@@TheDIYCabinGuy Thanks. Other than the sediment issues are you overall very happy with it? I have city water and want a whole house filter and this one is on my short list. I have reads some people have leaks around the o-rings of the canisters.
@@hdtvkeith1604 I think that for city water it’d work probably just fine, I deal with well water so it’s another story…
I haven’t had any problems with leaks.
Is well cased?
I think so
Any new updates? Installing similar system myself now... Also using uv filter though.
Still having problems , sounds like the only solution will be to install some heavy duty backwash system which do cost a pretty penny!
@@TheDIYCabinGuy the pre-filter didn't remove the worst of it? I ask bc I have orange stains in toilets bc of iron.
@@jamieemes4292 it did help but there is still a decent amount going through and overwhelming the rest of the filters which get clogged up within a few weeks usually.
Ok the clear glass filter,it not one but three as well,I was watching some rain water harvesting. An the guy had about three clear glass filters ok
Yes those clear sediment filters are great to remove large size stuff from the water !
Are you near any farm lands?
Not really, I’m in mountains. Not many farmland around
You should have used two sediment filters in line with two different filters to stop heavy sediment. And drain them once a week. This setup will keep the heavy particles out of your larger filters and allow them to further filter the water without clogging. No matter the label. These large water filters are not made to filter heavy sediment. The will always clog especially with well water. It's a sad state that our drinking water, all over the major cities & towns, are in such sad contaminated condition!
Thank you for the feedback. My current flushable filter is 100 micron, the smaller mesh they make is 50 micron. Would that make that much difference to add a 50 microns? I wish they would make one which would be 10 microns or less.
I’m still trying to understand what that stuff is on the sediment filter, obviously some iron is in play because of the color but what could all that deposit be made of? Is that all iron? Or could it be something else ?
I have talked to local well companies, water « experts » and I keep getting vastly different answers.
@@TheDIYCabinGuy In my opinion I would use 2 of the filter's like I said. Using 2 filters for sediment capture. Because you want to catch as much of the heavey material as possible before getting to your ispring filter's. Try having one of those be charcoal if you can. I personally use Culligan water filters because of the larger capacity. They are 10” x 4.5” in diameter. I have good water pressure with these large filters. Ispring is a very good system. So I would put one more sediment filter. Drain them regularly, once a week. By cleaning up more before getting to the ispring filter's I believe your system will be more efficient and cleaner water. I'm not an expert. I'm a layman that has very rusted city water where I live. My eyes used to get red after taking a shower. If you take a 20 min shower your body absorbs about 1 cup of water. Plus I installed a new water heater that rusted out in 5 years. Hard water damage's all appliances over time. Filtering is a money & health saver. Just my humble opinion. Good luck. What do you have to loose?
@@TheDIYCabinGuy also have your water tested. Find a lab that can tell you Exactly what's in the water. But in the end it doesn't matter. You have to filter. Where I live we have chemicals in the water from all the old jewelry companies that dumped their refining chemical for years in the environment. Plus chlorine the city uses. If you have well water also check for arsenic. If you have that you will need a reverse osmosis filtering tank. Again, good luck 🤞
@@reddragon3733 thanks a lot. I did get the water tested, lots of iron, manganese and turbidity. I’m currently doing an iron bacteria test as I’m still unsure if that’s what it is on my sédiment filters.
@@TheDIYCabinGuy I think what i'd do is install the 100 micron first, and then the 50 micron behind it and then the whole house filters can do their work. I have a 20-25micron sediment filter and a 5 micron whole house filter, and I'm looking into these 50,100 micron filters as pre-filters to make my whole house filters last longer.
you DO NOT need the spindown filter! What you need is a Pre-filter 20' 5 micron, this pre-filter would be replaced every 25-30 days. Then you would need a post-filter 10 inch 0.35 micron !!!
Base on what your previous disposed filters, I guarantee you need both pre and post filter! Little spindown fitler doesn't really help much!
Yep, ended up getting a full backwash system installed, works like a charm
It is an organism called iron oxide in your water...well water itself should be shock treated
Actually got a backwash system, works all good now.
Same issue here after a couple weeks
Interesting! Kind of glad to hear I’m not the only one. What system do you have in place? Same as me? Have you considered installing a flushable sediment filter?
👍👍😉
Thanks
👍🙂
You need to add a swimming pool filter before your purifying filter system
Im getting a backwash system installed soon.
I must be missing something here...
You have 'bad' well water that requires (significant) filtration.
When the filters do their job, you seem concerned or disappointed...?
Just wasn’t expecting this much I guess
Sorry to tell you this, you need a new well. Or put a spin-down filter before the 3 stage.
I ended up getting some automatic backwash system and it’s working pretty well now
Did it work?
Mike, it helped prolong the life of the filters but it’s still not great. I’m still planning on installing a better filtering system altogether.
@@TheDIYCabinGuy thanks, I'm replumbing my home and there seem to be so many combination to put a system together it looks almost like designing by trial and error
@@Mike_Genisys i agree, it’s so overwhelming, so many websites out there selling different styles of filters. I’m still confused as to what will be my best option going forward.
Imagine drinking that water unfiltered for years. What would your insides look like?
Lol thankfully we’re not drinking it
Any update?
I’m still having problems 😩. I probably will need to install a more heavier duty backwash type of system.
@@TheDIYCabinGuy Sorry to hear that. I hope you find a solution. All the best! God bless.
@@jonoyb4721 thanks! And I will make a follow up video whenever I get an updated system installed.
Wow that is nuts seem I have a different issue some reason my family love city water even though othe reported say American water make mistakes dad just blame othe stuff for health issues and don't care a6 chlorine
Putain la vieille bouilli de sédiments ! Ya pas moyen de faire de l'argile avec ? pour faire des bosl ou des assiettes ? ^^
Lol ouais j’étais choqué de découvrir ça
See my comments on your original installation video as you might be running the flow backwards through your system. If you are it is going to effect how it functions.
See my comment, the install is correct.
@@TheDIYCabinGuy The installation water direction is correct for your specific model which is inconsistent with some of their other models.
The problem isnt the filters or the setup, thats some very turbid water
Thankfully, getting a backwash system installed got the water quality under control
Yo, get the clear cylinders!!!
That would be nice!
Little pricey but same as the big blue
update for 2023?
Had to get a much bigger system (auto backwash) to really get something that works well. It’s been a year and that new system is getting the job done.
@@TheDIYCabinGuy would love to see a video of you have the time or need ideas! Interested in your water quality tests.
What system did you put into the cabin?
@@zachwak yes i might do something one day, water will come to cabin from house after going through the filtering system so no need for additional filtration at the cabin.
thats nasty! we have city water and it doesnt get that bad... but it kills a filter in 3 months.. For us, you can feel it when the filter is worn out.. the water is sticky, begins to smell..
Interesting you’re dealing with that even on city water
My man, the filters aren’t the problem. Your pump or intake pipe needs to be raised. The bottom of the well is bad
Probably right !
@@TheDIYCabinGuy ask me how I know hahaha. Have a good weekend
That filter is too small you should have the gallon model
Well I ended up changing most of that system to a backwash system. No problem for 1 yr +
Could you send a link to the backwash system? Did you stick with Ispring?
@@TheDIYCabinGuy can you send a link to the system you got? Did you stick with the ispring?
@@crplayer32 I just put in the gallon style a week ago I bought it off of Home Depot ispring ws50j it’s not the automatic flush style they do have an automatic flush style for more money but I watch a lot of videos on wells and any time you have that much clay or mud in it something is wrong your water coming up should be clear with some sediment not what you have
@@crplayer32 it’s from a local company that installed it, I don’t think I have a link to it unfortunately
Perhaps wear new vinyl gloves so as to not introduce bacteria into you filter system.
Good tip! Thanks
your water is not clear with or without the filter...u need new well
It's not the filters that's your problem. It's the water in your well. You've got a serious issue there.
iSpring didnt recommend a sediment filter?? "REALLY" ??? that dont jive right
Man that filter system is WAY to small and not designed for the water you have coming into the house.
Sorry to break the news to you. You need to change the filters every few months(2 or 3). You got major iron problems and possibly a type of soluble clay that I cant remember the name of. You are going to have to spend alot more money and I suggest you go hear to start learning. ruclips.net/video/soLVtWijUtI/видео.html
Now if you want to save some money I would try a pool sand filter and rig it so you can do a 15-20 min. back wash once a week. Man you got some bad water. Are you getting it from a ditch? LOL, just kidding.
Iv been using a sand filter for a while and getting good results and I have iron water. I am now designing a homemade one with a back wash. But Im in Vietnam on vacation visiting family now and still doing research on a better way to improve it. I also trying to make make it simple to clean. Good luck my friend. im praying for ya.🙏
We got an auto backwash system installed, all good now
As thick as that is I would back flush daily
Good point, that’s my next step probably, installing a proper system that can automatically back flush all that ferric iron and sediments.
@@TheDIYCabinGuy they do sell an attachment to the drain valve to do it automatically.
This is hardly a review of the RO filter, and more like reviewing well water.
Using well water that is near the max iron rating of the RO filters without a pre-filter isn't really a review of the RO filter, and more a review of the dirty water pre-treatment.
Of course a filter will get clogged after heavy use, and of course heavy use will cause the filter to get clogged faster. To expect an RO filter that filters already treated city water to last the same amount of time for untreated well water is a big disingenuous.
Well I would add that the filter is rated for 50 000 gal at 3PPM of iron which it did not seem to be able to handle. This is advertised as an heady duty whole house filtration system, I’m just sharing my experience.
I don’t see why this would be used with city water as I doubt you’d encounter heavy sediment, iron, and manganese from treated city water.
I have seen safer water in Afghanistan when I was there
🤣🤣🤣
That doesn't work.
Yep it surely wasn’t 🤣
Based on your water your expectations are way too high for this filter system. You are massively over working the filters.
Indeed, I’m looking into getting a backwash system installed.
@@TheDIYCabinGuy great. You might want to have your well casing looked at too.
@@jmorris999 what’s that?
hire a pro check your well...
Bro I’m going to speculate that you’re water well has a enormous amount of iron in the water. The guy who drilled your water well should have went deeper in search of more clear water. Back when I was still living with my parents my dad had a guy come out and drill a new water well for us. That water was exactly like your water. It was terrible. That filtration setup that you have is not going to work. You’re gonna have to do something on a colossal scale just to get that iron out of your water supply. Those filters aren’t going to cut the mustard.
You’re correct , I just got two backwashing system installed and it seems to handle the amount of ferric and ferrous iron in the water without throttling the water flow.
So your running muddy well water thro the system and your wondering why its not working properly 🤣😅🤣😅🤣😂
😂😂😂 actually just ferric and ferrous water, no mud but sure looks like mud