Unfortunately that step between grades... That's how it is in the local gym I go to. I'm a new climber, and can flash all of the V1 and V2's in the gym. I can't get 2 moves in to any of the V3's so it feels like I hit a hard roadblock. There's nothing transitionary between the grades. Which makes climbing less fun. Everything in the gym that is V0-1-2 I can flash. Then there's not a single boulder problem I can do beyond that; not even close. So it's like my choices in training are repeating stuff that is too easy, or flailing against problems that are way out of my league fruitlessly. It's frustrating! As a new climber, I would definitely appreciate routesetters that could at least offer some "steps" between, you know? Like "this is a softer V3 to teach you X/Y/Z, which you need to know to do these other V3's." Rather than just have that sharp step between beginner and intermediate with no hope of transitioning between them.
I loved the works when i went. Its unfortunately about an hour and a half away from me. But if you want to learn the foundations of good techniques along with power and such, there isn't a better place imo. Also the vibe of the whole place. Its got an old timer surfer kind of feel. Everyones just so friendly with each other. So glad you have showcased it to all your viewers from the states & beyond. Big up to you JS.
Hey Jonathan I'm 14 and have been climbing for 8 months, I currently max out at V8/5.12c, and for strength reference on the beast maker 23mil I can one arm hang for 12 seconds right arm and 5 seconds left arm, and can do a pullup with 72.5 lbs added. I want to be a pro climber and you have been a huge inspiration for me do you have any advice that you learned from when you were trying to go pro?
Compete. If you live in the US, create a USA climbing account and go to a few youth qualifier events. The comps will show you whatever you lack, and competing in usac is just the most straightforward way to become a pro eventually.
That hangboard at the end has some history, it's where Wong Leong Shaun hung +120kg on 20mm at 63kg bodyweight, which probably used to be the world record!
One of the big downsides to refreshing a certain circuit every week, is that if you climb let's say 2 circuits, and the rest are too hard or too easy, then you only have new boulders once every month at most. If you refresh sections of the wall, there will be new boulders for everyone to try every week.
Yes I found that most commercial gyms are much more beginner friendly, but I’m still a regular member at the Works because they have quite a variety for stronger outdoor climbers.
Most of the time when you climb the whole of a set you can definitely climb a few climbs of the set or two above. I agree that batch resets have their downsides but i think overall they encourage more people to put more time into climbs outside of their normal circuit range. The only annoying thing is if you have three longer term projects of the same circuit, they all get reset at once so you have to spread your time between all of them last minute instead of focusing on the climb that is reset soonest. I find in gyms that reset by section of wall the climbs feel stale sooner and a lot of people just climb the new stuff every week without ever really projecting and upping their level. Let's say the gym has twenty sections, that means the oldest climb is twenty weeks rather than 8 or so for a circuit-a-week approach. The average hold also gets way dirtier.
@@ProdBolder nah the gym is divided into 8 sections so about every 2 months everything is reset. I also like the system for projecting cause I climb the new section first usually and then spend some time projecting things I didnt get done in previous sessions
@@colemantrebor6574 but the gym isn't reset in sections, it's reset by circuit colour? I'm confused by what you mean. When i say sections i mean sections of wall. Most gyms reset an area of wallspace at a time, TCW resets entire coloured circuits throughout the gym.
Even more historical is The Foundy which is also in Sheffield, that’s Jerry Moffat's climbing gym, it has a special bouldering wall called the wave which is designed to replicate outdoor bouldering. If you go there ask someone about the historical problems because there are a few historical problems that were done without using grips and only using the special wall.
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the audio quality has improved a lot, Jonathan! great video and thanks!
thank youuu, they are only gonna get betterrr
Unfortunately that step between grades... That's how it is in the local gym I go to. I'm a new climber, and can flash all of the V1 and V2's in the gym. I can't get 2 moves in to any of the V3's so it feels like I hit a hard roadblock. There's nothing transitionary between the grades. Which makes climbing less fun. Everything in the gym that is V0-1-2 I can flash. Then there's not a single boulder problem I can do beyond that; not even close. So it's like my choices in training are repeating stuff that is too easy, or flailing against problems that are way out of my league fruitlessly. It's frustrating!
As a new climber, I would definitely appreciate routesetters that could at least offer some "steps" between, you know? Like "this is a softer V3 to teach you X/Y/Z, which you need to know to do these other V3's." Rather than just have that sharp step between beginner and intermediate with no hope of transitioning between them.
Absolutely love the focus you put on the setting at different locations - I think it's something that few climbing videos touch on.
haha I just love geeking out about everything climbing to be honesttt
deffo most sandbagged gym in sheffield but one of the best, helped me fall in love with climbing!!
my feet popped on like every climb no matter the grade the first time I visited
I loved the works when i went. Its unfortunately about an hour and a half away from me. But if you want to learn the foundations of good techniques along with power and such, there isn't a better place imo.
Also the vibe of the whole place. Its got an old timer surfer kind of feel. Everyones just so friendly with each other.
So glad you have showcased it to all your viewers from the states & beyond. Big up to you JS.
it's one of the greats for sure
It feels a lot like BoulderShack in Southampton, UK.
Agreed with some comments about the audio improvement. Good stuff bro.
🥹I’ll keep trying to make things betterrr
If it was easy, it wouldn't be hard
Sam’s very wise😉
Hey Jonathan I'm 14 and have been climbing for 8 months, I currently max out at V8/5.12c, and for strength reference on the beast maker 23mil I can one arm hang for 12 seconds right arm and 5 seconds left arm, and can do a pullup with 72.5 lbs added. I want to be a pro climber and you have been a huge inspiration for me do you have any advice that you learned from when you were trying to go pro?
Compete. If you live in the US, create a USA climbing account and go to a few youth qualifier events. The comps will show you whatever you lack, and competing in usac is just the most straightforward way to become a pro eventually.
@@littlewarrior2308 I just created my account this week my first comp Is actually tomorrow!
One of my fave climbing walls...great setting, lovely people...
Can not agree moreee
Brilliant wall, most bouldering walls here in Spain are aimed at the new parkour sort of climbing.
Huge sloper volumes and not much else.
That hangboard at the end has some history, it's where Wong Leong Shaun hung +120kg on 20mm at 63kg bodyweight, which probably used to be the world record!
fun fact, this is also the gym where Jim Pope beat Alex Megos in a campus only competition
alright im totally sold. will be checking out this gym when i visit the uk
it's a MUST GO
Really nice filming/interview style of gym 👌
glad you enjoyed ittt
I’m climbing there tonight :)
Luckyyy youuuu
do the foundry next. :) it's about 30 years old and has an 8b boulder problem you can try.
Epic Tv and the Bobats did something with them ages agooo
I might have to take a trip to the works if the grit is wet this weekend
DEFINITELYYY
One of the big downsides to refreshing a certain circuit every week, is that if you climb let's say 2 circuits, and the rest are too hard or too easy, then you only have new boulders once every month at most. If you refresh sections of the wall, there will be new boulders for everyone to try every week.
Yes I found that most commercial gyms are much more beginner friendly, but I’m still a regular member at the Works because they have quite a variety for stronger outdoor climbers.
Most of the time when you climb the whole of a set you can definitely climb a few climbs of the set or two above. I agree that batch resets have their downsides but i think overall they encourage more people to put more time into climbs outside of their normal circuit range. The only annoying thing is if you have three longer term projects of the same circuit, they all get reset at once so you have to spread your time between all of them last minute instead of focusing on the climb that is reset soonest.
I find in gyms that reset by section of wall the climbs feel stale sooner and a lot of people just climb the new stuff every week without ever really projecting and upping their level. Let's say the gym has twenty sections, that means the oldest climb is twenty weeks rather than 8 or so for a circuit-a-week approach. The average hold also gets way dirtier.
god damn, what gym you going to that's resetting every week 🤣that's crazyyyy
@@ProdBolder nah the gym is divided into 8 sections so about every 2 months everything is reset. I also like the system for projecting cause I climb the new section first usually and then spend some time projecting things I didnt get done in previous sessions
@@colemantrebor6574 but the gym isn't reset in sections, it's reset by circuit colour? I'm confused by what you mean. When i say sections i mean sections of wall. Most gyms reset an area of wallspace at a time, TCW resets entire coloured circuits throughout the gym.
I’m not sure if you realise that you are a great interviewer! You seems to know what to ask. Same goes for your videos made in Japan.
thank you so muchhhh, these are some of my favourite type of videos to do haha
my daughter loves the mini climbing works, annoyingly as its and hour away haha
The most sensible solution is definitely moving the whole family closer to the works😉
how tall are you?
7 feet
Even more historical is The Foundy which is also in Sheffield, that’s Jerry Moffat's climbing gym, it has a special bouldering wall called the wave which is designed to replicate outdoor bouldering. If you go there ask someone about the historical problems because there are a few historical problems that were done without using grips and only using the special wall.