Good tip on the pump metal rubber coated gasket. I just picked up a millings brand pump. Came with paper gasket. I feel ur pain. I did a timing belt job, then noticed after I got leaks coming from behind housing
Its a great video for us diyers because in my experience theres 4 types of quality, the one where only oem works like this oil pump. The one where cheap works but isnt as good like mid segment struts. The ones where third party is just as good if not better (ive had great luck with some felpro products) so this is really helpful! Oh, the 4th kind of "quality" is dodge/chrysler, the kind you avoid at all cost!
Let me dispense my wisdom The graveyards are full of "mute inglorious Miltons" (Grey's Elegy) and the wrecking yards are full of old Camrys. If you need the oil pump housing because yours got damaged somehow, just get one from a wrecking yard. The tips about the seals in this video are extremely valuable though. Even so, I doubt the aftermarket pump housing he bought was the culprit. The metal gasket and a quality crankshaft seal are the key things.
Very good points, I can't remember exactly which one was doing this because it was so long ago, (I'm pretty sure it was the aftermarket non name brand one) it was actually cracked AND the gaskets that came with it were trash. Other people have gotten on here and been like "yeah duh lol" How was I supposed to know??? Haha thanks for the comment anyways
Thanks for the info. I'm currently going through this with my MR2. I had replaced the oil-pump o-ring and didn't pay attention that two of the bolts were shorter than the others and I popped the oil-pump cover off of the block and created a leak. I'm hoping the metal Fel-Pro gasket will do the job.
I know im randomly asking but does anyone know of a way to get back into an Instagram account..? I stupidly forgot the account password. I would love any assistance you can offer me!
@Augustine Jay Thanks for your reply. I got to the site on google and im in the hacking process atm. I see it takes a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
I redid the camshaft seals, crankshaft seals and oil pump housing and water pump. New timing belt and redid the oil pan gasket (twice). The only thing I cheaped out on was the oil pump housing. It didn't even have the timing marks for setting the timing. I used that stupid paper gasket in it. I wanted to use silicone rtv, and lay a thin bead, but my friend told me not to. He said that Toyotas absolutely need to use the gasket. It was pouring out oil from the opposite side from where you were indicating (top right corner of the oil pump housing). The new equipment stopped the leak for a few days, not it's leaking oil again. I'm going to have to stick more dye in but I bet it's that stupid paper gasket. I kind of figured that was the problem but I think you just convinced me to buy an Aisin pump and locate a metal gasket. I didn't even know that paper wasn't original. Thanks bud
Man that's sucks but sounds like exactly what I went through! Yes you need the rubber coated metal gasket!!! Trust me the paper will never work properly
I believe so, it wasn't a tight fit at all, I actually ended up losing the original and just put in some thick washer looking part that I had laying around (may not be best practice but I found something that was the exact thickness in fit) I don't think it was a tight fit, and if I remember correctly I globbed up rtv around the face that touches the pump
Man! Your absolutely right! I’m going through the same thing with my 99 RAV4! Do I have to redo the oil pan gasket? I just did it 500miles ago! If I have to! I’ll have to re jack the motor! Take off the exhaust pipe from cat to rear x pipe and remove the lower support bracket for the motor! And I’d love to not have to do that again....
LOL there had to be that one guy. Do you have a point to make? Why are you watching my video in the first place? Clearly you didn't watch and listen to the video
Hey man, does the strainer and oil pump have to be removed from the oil pump housing itself before it can be removed? Also must the ac compressor be moved? Thanks
I think I had to remove it separately before the housing is removed if I remember correctly. It has two torque star screws I think. Ac compressor does not have to be removed
Unfortunately yes the pump is bolted to both the pan and the side of the engine block, I would recommend a cork gasket and use rtv all along the whole gasket and pan, the first time I did it with a rubber gasket and it leaked oil, I'm still driving the car everyday to this day and no problems since
I went to the local napa store in my town for the oil pump and crankshaft seal, just make sure you get oem brand don't go to auto zone and advance! and i got the rubbercoated metal shim gasket from rockauto.com, its best to just go to their website and pick your make model and year for your specific vehicle than me to send a link that might not be the right one. Hope this helps and good luck!
Good video. Great for the people trying to do the job themselves. Getting the right and quality parts is half the battle
Good tip on the pump metal rubber coated gasket. I just picked up a millings brand pump. Came with paper gasket. I feel ur pain. I did a timing belt job, then noticed after I got leaks coming from behind housing
Its a great video for us diyers because in my experience theres 4 types of quality, the one where only oem works like this oil pump. The one where cheap works but isnt as good like mid segment struts. The ones where third party is just as good if not better (ive had great luck with some felpro products) so this is really helpful! Oh, the 4th kind of "quality" is dodge/chrysler, the kind you avoid at all cost!
Let me dispense my wisdom The graveyards are full of "mute inglorious Miltons" (Grey's Elegy) and the wrecking yards are full of old Camrys. If you need the oil pump housing because yours got damaged somehow, just get one from a wrecking yard. The tips about the seals in this video are extremely valuable though.
Even so, I doubt the aftermarket pump housing he bought was the culprit. The metal gasket and a quality crankshaft seal are the key things.
Very good points, I can't remember exactly which one was doing this because it was so long ago, (I'm pretty sure it was the aftermarket non name brand one) it was actually cracked AND the gaskets that came with it were trash. Other people have gotten on here and been like "yeah duh lol"
How was I supposed to know??? Haha thanks for the comment anyways
Why didnt you use the original housing
Thanks for the info. I'm currently going through this with my MR2. I had replaced the oil-pump o-ring and didn't pay attention that two of the bolts were shorter than the others and I popped the oil-pump cover off of the block and created a leak. I'm hoping the metal Fel-Pro gasket will do the job.
Good luck! The part I hated was having to do the job multiple times haha
Did you mean to say two bolts were longer? The two lowest bolts (one on each side) are longer than the other ten.
Car is still running good with no leaks
I know im randomly asking but does anyone know of a way to get back into an Instagram account..?
I stupidly forgot the account password. I would love any assistance you can offer me!
@Brayden Mustafa instablaster :)
@Augustine Jay Thanks for your reply. I got to the site on google and im in the hacking process atm.
I see it takes a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Augustine Jay it worked and I actually got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D
Thanks so much, you saved my account !
@Brayden Mustafa no problem :D
I redid the camshaft seals, crankshaft seals and oil pump housing and water pump. New timing belt and redid the oil pan gasket (twice). The only thing I cheaped out on was the oil pump housing. It didn't even have the timing marks for setting the timing. I used that stupid paper gasket in it. I wanted to use silicone rtv, and lay a thin bead, but my friend told me not to. He said that Toyotas absolutely need to use the gasket. It was pouring out oil from the opposite side from where you were indicating (top right corner of the oil pump housing). The new equipment stopped the leak for a few days, not it's leaking oil again. I'm going to have to stick more dye in but I bet it's that stupid paper gasket. I kind of figured that was the problem but I think you just convinced me to buy an Aisin pump and locate a metal gasket. I didn't even know that paper wasn't original. Thanks bud
Man that's sucks but sounds like exactly what I went through! Yes you need the rubber coated metal gasket!!! Trust me the paper will never work properly
My oil pump seal keeps coming out ?
How do I get the spacer out and in to the new bolt hole? Does it just pull out with vice grips?
I believe so, it wasn't a tight fit at all, I actually ended up losing the original and just put in some thick washer looking part that I had laying around (may not be best practice but I found something that was the exact thickness in fit) I don't think it was a tight fit, and if I remember correctly I globbed up rtv around the face that touches the pump
My mr2 aisin oil pump had a paper gasket and it had that top part of the gasket
Man! Your absolutely right! I’m going through the same thing with my 99 RAV4! Do I have to redo the oil pan gasket? I just did it 500miles ago! If I have to! I’ll have to re jack the motor! Take off the exhaust pipe from cat to rear x pipe and remove the lower support bracket for the motor! And I’d love to not have to do that again....
What a pain... Im not sure exactly because i havent worked on that car, i had to do my oil pan several times because its attached to the oil pump:(
I did the pan gasket on my 99 only removing the downpipe
This is a very easy 3-hour job. And it's not bad or cheap parts it's someone with no experience installing them.
LOL there had to be that one guy. Do you have a point to make? Why are you watching my video in the first place? Clearly you didn't watch and listen to the video
Wow...what a comment
One more thing. That's 78 inch pounds, not 78 foot pounds. 78 foot pounds is for wheel nuts.
Yup
Hey man, does the strainer and oil pump have to be removed from the oil pump housing itself before it can be removed? Also must the ac compressor be moved? Thanks
I think I had to remove it separately before the housing is removed if I remember correctly. It has two torque star screws I think. Ac compressor does not have to be removed
So does oil pan need to be dropped to remove this part?
Unfortunately yes the pump is bolted to both the pan and the side of the engine block, I would recommend a cork gasket and use rtv all along the whole gasket and pan, the first time I did it with a rubber gasket and it leaked oil, I'm still driving the car everyday to this day and no problems since
👍
well done! :-D
Nothing like doing the job twice
any links to parts at the aforementioned websites OR amazon/google?
I went to the local napa store in my town for the oil pump and crankshaft seal, just make sure you get oem brand don't go to auto zone and advance! and i got the rubbercoated metal shim gasket from rockauto.com, its best to just go to their website and pick your make model and year for your specific vehicle than me to send a link that might not be the right one. Hope this helps and good luck!
less sugar, less sweet...simple
Gonna do this with my car but I have the extra piece gasket, I think I'm just going to cut that extra piece off and send it
Just double check for leaks afterward, i found that only the metal and rubber one didn't leak, maybe use gasket maker on it