great work thank you as someone who worked on cars when i was younger now 70 and quite sick , it gives me great joy to watch keep up the good work, cant wait to see it go back in and running
A very enjoyable video. I'm looking forward to the reassembly, the refitting of the gearbox back in the car and the first drive! You're doing a great job on the channel.
Hello, great video! I am a precision fitter for a cnc spindle refurb company and work with this type of thing daily.... the easiest way to get bearings on to a shaft like that is to heat the inners of the bearing up slightly using a heat gun or a hot plate and ring. You will then find they expand enough So you don’t have to tap them down as this can sometimes knock the bearing out of track causing them to fail. Hope this helps👍🏻
I've overhauled many manual transmissions (mostly Honda, Toyota and Nissan) and I have NEVER seen a 'sealed' bearing like those used inside a trans. The idea (usually) is to have them 'open' to be adequately and constantly lubricated with the 90# gear oil inside the trans. This type bearing is normally used for different applications and the lubrication (grease) is contained inside the plastic seals. I don't like this design and think it would be actually better to remove the seals. (No wonder they went bad) Great job feeling you way through this fairly complex job!
I bet VW sealed the bearings because this transmission produces a massive amount of metal chips and shavings, which would cause even more damage if they got inside the bearings. Nonetheless, I agree that the oiling is practically nonexistent in these bearings due to the complete enclosure.
Hot tip on getting the bearings and the sleeve back on without too much hassle: use a heat gun and get the metal up to around 100 C. Then you should be able to simply drop it on the room temp shafts.
It warms me to see that your very honest about your decision when rebuilding the skoda gearbox there are too many dodgy mechanics out there.excellent work
Quality work James well done mate for a first attempt at gearbox work you’re smashing it, Your videos are definitely worth waiting for! I tend to watch some of the older stuff in between for that savage garage fix. Good luck with the rest of the rebuild mate 👍
Great job! One thing I want to mention: I would take 2 sockets and a plate and than hit it in the middle, so it goes on both shafts evenly ;) But like I said, great job done here! :)
Just a tip, keep hold of all your old bearings to use on the press. Brave man overhauling a gearbox, this is something which we get our advanced Tech’s to do.
Brilliant channel, nice to see someone who is prepared to have a go without a fully equipped garage, just a drive and a shed, your presentation and explanations are spot on (even if it`s something you are leaning yourself). Quick tip don`t assume that ebay is going to always be the cheapest, I have got some parts much cheaper from a main dealer before, especially obsolete model parts they can be reduced just to clear stock. If you have different main dealers near ring both as the parts price can sometime vary massively.
Also, if there's an outside and an inside, which is always the case, I clean it / them with what ever system is necessary. I save allot of time and money, with this approach.
I dont mean to be off topic but does anybody know a method to log back into an instagram account?? I was dumb lost my login password. I would love any tricks you can give me!
@Asher Jose I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm trying it out atm. Seems to take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Good piece of kit to have...wouldn't be without mine. Don't forget you can use heat and cold to your advantage to expand/ contract parts that have interference fit. You'll be needing a bigger workshop if you keep expanding 😬😉🤣
Have had the same thought for years now... the Man reaches a level where the space available is starting to limit his progress as a "do-it-yourself" Person. But an upgrade is Flippin' expensive...
Good stuff! Just what I needed with a beer then bed for my early start for graft in morning. Like what your doing, people on here think you should do everything like Haynes would. But your not, your like me... You get the job done 1 way or another👍😊
Great work man 👏 only ever been in the company of a press at my mates work when i have needed wheel bearings pressed in, excellent bit of kit for your shed 👌
Hi mate hope you keep making your videos , I've enjoyed all the projects you,be done , the mini , mondeo , and now this skoda , first time I've seen a gearbox repair , I'm enjoying it , really good videos mate , I like your ways of getting round jobs , like your homemade drain plug , very good I think , thanks , from Tony from bedfordshire 👍 👍
Good video mate , Having watched all of it I think you or anyone else out there could possibly pull the bearing pack off by popping out the remaining visible seal on the left bearing , if you have a careful go at them with a very small screwdriver they will just pop out , there,s not much holding these in , having done that get hold of a suitably sized internal race puller off ebay or amazon , these have 2 legs on them that have shaped bulbs on the ends , you carefully insert each leg into the gap between the inner race & the outer ring of the bearing then turn the leg 90 degrees so that it then grips the groove for the ball bearings . Assemble the rest of the puller up above the legs & pull each bearing off a little , do this very evenly or you could easily bend things , a tip here , if you use just one puller only pull the bearing you,re working on a few thou , or you could start to bend things - terminally , either the puller or the shaft the bearing is on that you,re working on.Obviously to get the puller,s legs in you have to destroy 2 bits of the ball bearing cage in the undamaged bearing in diametrically opposite places , but you will end up changing the whole pack anyway so this does not matter . it would be very useful to know in advance the distance across the bearing,s ball tracks please , so that we out here can arm ourselves with the right sized pullers . For those that have never pulled any bearings off before , you use a stout , undamaged & well machined piece of flat steel bar across the top of the shafts to screw your puller central forcing screw down onto , with plenty of the same sort of oil that the gearbox uses on it to lube it , but still keep everything clean , no muck , grit , bits or dust must get in there .Ensure that you,re not pressing straight on the end of a fine internal caged bearing in the end of the shaft ! O.K. that,s my 2 penn,orth mate , it will be good to know the size of these bearings, please reply on here , thanks .
Re the oil flowing across your workbench in the last video when you separated the gearbox - I forgot to message you to say IKEA sell a tray (BAGGMUCK 603.297.11) which is great to have on a workbench to catch oils and small rolly stuff. Great video - really liking this gearbox fix series.
Nice one James, nice to see you getting back in the groove, It seems that nothing fazes you, you always seem to find a way to get round any problem. Looking forward to the next one.👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
you can bring the ball bearings and the sleeve to around 150 ° C, then you can almost easily attach them. an induction plate with a piece of sheet steel (3-4mm) works well for warming up.
Thanks for some informative videos. Has anyone wondered why the 2 bearings are closed bearings? They both run in oil from the gearbox so why make them closed? Would it be an idea to open the bearings when rebuilding the gearbox?
Heat helps. Trick that can work, find a sock that will just rest inside the bearing inner race. Use a blow torch to heat up the socket. Once hot drop it into the bearing. Leave to sit for a short while. Heat transfers into the inner race, which should expand. Then the bearings should drop of, or tap on with very little effort
Hey, I had a problem with my gearbox too my diff seemed better days when your driving the car gearbox does sound like helicopter so I've put a new gerbox
I’ve done a similar repair in the past, I put the gear cluster and main shaft in the freezer for a few hours and get the bearings warm in the oven, wife moans about freezer and oven stinking of gear oil, but bearings are just a simple push fit due to expansion and contraction of the metal.
You could have had a 2 tonne bottle jack in there to press the bearing off. Even though it’s a 12 tonne press doesn’t mean u need 12 tonne of force for it to come off. Use a bit of heat to expand the collar and it will slide on without hitting it on
Just to add my experience Ocatvia Mk3, 1.6tdi, 2014, gearbox MWW 0A4 was repaired under warranty at 80k km due to noise early in mornings sounded as cow, mouuuu. the noise disappeared once the motor came warm. Outside conical bearings on the diff - 2st. plus the two needle bearings and new oil - G052527 (or something like that was the specification). Trough, after 40km now the noise is back. Digging in documentation of the repair I found that the official service in Norway has tried to add 200mL oil to mitigate the noise with no success. Now i bought 2Litres Castrol V (corresponding to spec as highly recommended to follow manufacture recommendations), made same 17mm tool a you :) and was ready to change the oil to try something and check for debris as I still have warranty for the repairment. However, opened the reverse switch and add 200ml 80W oil (what I had in the garage) and whalla - no that mouuuu noise anymore in any circumstances including heavy trailer. Additional research on net shows that even in technical specs the gear box oil capacity is specified as 1.7L when refill out/in and 1.9L when dry fill. However, as I understand Skoda recommend now to add 2.2-2.3L instead. I assume all that is because the gear box is tilted by 12degree back and the fill in plug is not reference oil level anymore on O3 Mk3 models, oil fill in via the reverse switch, easy access under the air filter box, 22mm spanner, same 10mm hose fits well here. May be some bearings are over the oil level as box tilted now and having the car over the night takes them to dry and the noise is coming next day first 100metters.
Si quieres que dure esa caja ,quita esos tapones azules de los rodamientos y así le llegará más cantidad de aceite ,de esta manera dura unos 400.000 km y tapados unos 100.000 km ,, He armado muchas cajas de estas y siempre lo hago así ,,estos rodillos vienes con grasa especial ,pero no duran nada taponados,,,,saludos desde Canarias
Remember how you pressed the old bearing off. Just reverse it and press the new bearing on instead of hammering but I'm sure you haven't done anything that every home mechanic doesn't do every day full kudos for doing it
Correct me if I'm wrong but wouldn't hitting the center of the bearing potentially damage the ball bearings? I always thought you press a bearing using the outer part?
Regarding gearboxes. I had 13 years ago an opel astra G which broke at 70k km. The simptom was similar to your gearbox issue, one of the bearings broke iside the gearbox. Reading on forums found out it is a common issue for my gearbox type and the culprit is a manufacturing issue where they used a sealed bearing and because of this the gearbox oil was not able to lubricate the bearing. The only lubrication it had was the grease they put inside at manufacturing which looked like it was not enough. Remedy was to change the bearing and also remove the seal of the new bearing. I used the car for 9 more years and in total it got more 432k km with me until i sold it with a little over 500k km on the dash. Never had any gearbox issues. One note, i always change gearbox oil for all my cars every 120k km. It is not a big investment although many ppl say it is not necessary. I always play on the safe side as my cars are my moneymakers. Nice video mate! Keep up the good work.
Was there any rattling Sound coming from the car when driving it or was it only at idle? My fabia 1.4tdi Got a similar rattle at idle it goes away when pushing Down the clutch or just by raiseing the rpm to 13-1500. There is No rattle when driving only at idle. Just had the clutch and releasebearing replaced a week ago and that did not help anything. 😅
There good for dimensions and fluid capacity and torque settings really I wouldn't recommend using one if your a novice mechanic they don't really explain in great detail or if you have one you'll know that looking up a fix in one is a ball ache as for instance changing a blower resistor, you get to the page about blower resistor and it says to remove glovebox please refer to page whatever lmao so yer if you've got a problem and your a novice my advice is to look on RUclips or ask a garage don't just buy a Haynes manual and expect it to work miracles 👍👍👍👍
great work thank you as someone who worked on cars when i was younger now 70 and quite sick , it gives me great joy to watch keep up the good work, cant wait to see it go back in and running
Love it when people have ago instead of saying "don't know how" so well done respect earnt from me.
Oh yeah, this is what a love about this guy, he will have a go at anything and yes big respect
I was very impressed with your not frightened to tackle the job because no one has showed you what to do.
A very enjoyable video. I'm looking forward to the reassembly, the refitting of the gearbox back in the car and the first drive! You're doing a great job on the channel.
Hello, great video!
I am a precision fitter for a cnc spindle refurb company and work with this type of thing daily.... the easiest way to get bearings on to a shaft like that is to heat the inners of the bearing up slightly using a heat gun or a hot plate and ring. You will then find they expand enough So you don’t have to tap them down as this can sometimes knock the bearing out of track causing them to fail.
Hope this helps👍🏻
I'm doing this soon. The prices for transmissions went from 350 for a good used one to 1300. So i bought a repair kit and thank you for your videos!
Anothet great video mate! Hope we see some through the lockdown period! To be honest from what you do its a learning day everyday 👍🏻
Never ever get bored watching your videos. always interesting. Sometimes I wish they were an hour long.
I've overhauled many manual transmissions (mostly Honda, Toyota and Nissan) and I have NEVER seen a 'sealed' bearing like those used inside a trans.
The idea (usually) is to have them 'open' to be adequately and constantly lubricated with the 90# gear oil inside the trans. This type bearing is normally used for different applications and the lubrication (grease) is contained inside the plastic seals. I don't like this design and think it would be actually better to remove the seals. (No wonder they went bad)
Great job feeling you way through this fairly complex job!
I bet VW sealed the bearings because this transmission produces a massive amount of metal chips and shavings, which would cause even more damage if they got inside the bearings. Nonetheless, I agree that the oiling is practically nonexistent in these bearings due to the complete enclosure.
I'm in " awe " of your dedication to rectfy that gearbox, I take my hat off to you. John.
Nice one mate your videos are great like the way you aren't afraid of doing it yourself without having done it before .keep doing what you do top lad
Couldn’t agree more he’s great 👍
Great job and clear explanation, most people under estimate the tonnage produced by a hammer strike.
Hot tip on getting the bearings and the sleeve back on without too much hassle: use a heat gun and get the metal up to around 100 C. Then you should be able to simply drop it on the room temp shafts.
An old deep fat fryer is good for heating up engine oil and bearings evenly without the risk of damage to the bearings
It warms me to see that your very honest about your decision when rebuilding the skoda gearbox there are too many dodgy mechanics out there.excellent work
Buying an opel insignia tomorrow. Would be nice to see some work done on one of that kind.
What year?
18. Grandsport automatic transmission
From what I've heard the diesels are not that reliable, let's hope you are going to get the petrol version. Good luck with it.
Quality work James well done mate for a first attempt at gearbox work you’re smashing it, Your videos are definitely worth waiting for! I tend to watch some of the older stuff in between for that savage garage fix. Good luck with the rest of the rebuild mate 👍
Its good that rebuilding a gearbox dont intimidate you. Great channel.
Great job! One thing I want to mention: I would take 2 sockets and a plate and than hit it in the middle, so it goes on both shafts evenly ;) But like I said, great job done here! :)
Kudos for having the balls to rebuild the gearbox ,fingers crossed for you that it all goes to plan .
Ahh I've been waiting patiently for this 👍👍
nice to see making progress James good to see new press looks good
Just a tip, keep hold of all your old bearings to use on the press.
Brave man overhauling a gearbox, this is something which we get our advanced Tech’s to do.
Brilliant channel, nice to see someone who is prepared to have a go without a fully equipped garage, just a drive and a shed, your presentation and explanations are spot on (even if it`s something you are leaning yourself). Quick tip don`t assume that ebay is going to always be the cheapest, I have got some parts much cheaper from a main dealer before, especially obsolete model parts they can be reduced just to clear stock. If you have different main dealers near ring both as the parts price can sometime vary massively.
Great video dude,doing exact same thing now.Best video so far on youtube
Excellent adapting technical skills. Enjoyed it.
Love the "library" of Haynes manuals on the shelf
Very nice job! Keep up the good quality work! I can't wait to see the car running again!
Not something I would have tried, well done that man, 😁👍
Also, if there's an outside and an inside, which is always the case, I clean it / them with what ever system is necessary. I save allot of time and money, with this approach.
I think I speak for most when I say I wouldn’t mind an hour-long video. I’d just make a second cup of tea🤣
I dont mean to be off topic but does anybody know a method to log back into an instagram account??
I was dumb lost my login password. I would love any tricks you can give me!
@Emery Marcus instablaster :)
@Asher Jose I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm trying it out atm.
Seems to take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Asher Jose It worked and I finally got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D
Thanks so much, you saved my account :D
@Emery Marcus Glad I could help :)
This is quality viewing! Top man, top work and top video. Just what I need on a Friday evening with a beer :). Well done James!
Lovely Jubbly, really interesting, you definitely do learn something new every day.
Brave man taking a gearbox that far apart for a first time!
Don't apologise, Faster than a US election result :)
And at least the order is accurate
@@qwertyqwrtyqwertyuio Lol
@@qwertyqwrtyqwertyuio think a recount of bits is the order of the day lol
Why there are sealed bearings in some gearboxes? Like oil bath is not enough or what?
Hydraulic press channel mentioned!
Nice new tool to your collection, use mine quite alot!
Good piece of kit to have...wouldn't be without mine.
Don't forget you can use heat and cold to your advantage to expand/ contract parts that have interference fit.
You'll be needing a bigger workshop if you keep expanding 😬😉🤣
Have had the same thought for years now... the Man reaches a level where the space available is starting to limit his progress as a "do-it-yourself" Person.
But an upgrade is Flippin' expensive...
Yeh would love a hour long vid as think your content is some of the best out there well done and keep em coming
There's a repair-kit for this gearbox, some even come with bits needed with hydraulic press.
Great video mate, love all the detail and learnings throughout. Makes me want to get my hands dirty! Keep up the great work.
you should clean the sycromesh baulk rings make sure there are no metal fragments in there
Good Job, Well Done,Cant Wait For The rest, Good Stuff
Good stuff! Just what I needed with a beer then bed for my early start for graft in morning. Like what your doing, people on here think you should do everything like Haynes would. But your not, your like me... You get the job done 1 way or another👍😊
Great work man 👏 only ever been in the company of a press at my mates work when i have needed wheel bearings pressed in, excellent bit of kit for your shed 👌
what a impressional,riveting video james. well worth the delay just to get things right..
I have the same knocking noise on my polo and have just been waiting eagerly for this video!
Great work James. Can’t wait for part 2
Top marks my man. Gearbox rebuild is no walk in the park...
Hi mate hope you keep making your videos , I've enjoyed all the projects you,be done , the mini , mondeo , and now this skoda , first time I've seen a gearbox repair , I'm enjoying it , really good videos mate , I like your ways of getting round jobs , like your homemade drain plug , very good I think , thanks , from Tony from bedfordshire 👍 👍
Good video mate , Having watched all of it I think you or anyone else out there could possibly pull the bearing pack off by popping out the remaining visible seal on the left bearing , if you have a careful go at them with a very small screwdriver they will just pop out , there,s not much holding these in , having done that get hold of a suitably sized internal race puller off ebay or amazon , these have 2 legs on them that have shaped bulbs on the ends , you carefully insert each leg into the gap between the inner race & the outer ring of the bearing then turn the leg 90 degrees so that it then grips the groove for the ball bearings . Assemble the rest of the puller up above the legs & pull each bearing off a little , do this very evenly or you could easily bend things , a tip here , if you use just one puller only pull the bearing you,re working on a few thou , or you could start to bend things - terminally , either the puller or the shaft the bearing is on that you,re working on.Obviously to get the puller,s legs in you have to destroy 2 bits of the ball bearing cage in the undamaged bearing in diametrically opposite places , but you will end up changing the whole pack anyway so this does not matter . it would be very useful to know in advance the distance across the bearing,s ball tracks please , so that we out here can arm ourselves with the right sized pullers . For those that have never pulled any bearings off before , you use a stout , undamaged & well machined piece of flat steel bar across the top of the shafts to screw your puller central forcing screw down onto , with plenty of the same sort of oil that the gearbox uses on it to lube it , but still keep everything clean , no muck , grit , bits or dust must get in there .Ensure that you,re not pressing straight on the end of a fine internal caged bearing in the end of the shaft ! O.K. that,s my 2 penn,orth mate , it will be good to know the size of these bearings, please reply on here , thanks .
Why are these bearings sealed? The gear oil shoud lube them better than the small amount of grease in them
Re the oil flowing across your workbench in the last video when you separated the gearbox - I forgot to message you to say IKEA sell a tray (BAGGMUCK 603.297.11) which is great to have on a workbench to catch oils and small rolly stuff. Great video - really liking this gearbox fix series.
Na we wouldn't be bored... 1hour long lockdown watch.... Nice...
Nice one James, nice to see you getting back in the groove, It seems that nothing fazes you, you always seem to find a way to get round any problem. Looking forward to the next one.👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Great work! Next time you need to press on a race, throw it in the oven at a 120-150C for 15 min. Two whacks and she is on there.
you can bring the ball bearings and the sleeve to around 150 ° C, then you can almost easily attach them.
an induction plate with a piece of sheet steel (3-4mm) works well for warming up.
Thanks for some informative videos. Has anyone wondered why the 2 bearings are closed bearings? They both run in oil from the gearbox so why make them closed? Would it be an idea to open the bearings when rebuilding the gearbox?
Heat helps. Trick that can work, find a sock that will just rest inside the bearing inner race. Use a blow torch to heat up the socket. Once hot drop it into the bearing. Leave to sit for a short while. Heat transfers into the inner race, which should expand. Then the bearings should drop of, or tap on with very little effort
Great video, the new press is very effective!!.
Excellent James ! Well done mate
Hi have u put the brass ring the right way up from the video it looked tapered. Cheers
Great job man! I just wonder whether it makes sense to replace the synchronizer rings too?
Again a nice job James, end a good press 👍
How’s the welding going
I wish I could work on car like you, very nice, from Kazakhstan 🇰🇿
Highly enjoyable.
Top video look forward to the next one.
You can also change the bottle check so you can get more tonnage of pressure
Hey Bud, don't apologise really love your content and make the videos as long and you want. Off topic just goes to show the right tools for the job!
Great video and nice to see someone do a gearbox repair instead of body work I hope it all works when done 🤫
Hey, I had a problem with my gearbox too my diff seemed better days when your driving the car gearbox does sound like helicopter so I've put a new gerbox
Another great vid James keep up the good work
I’ve done a similar repair in the past, I put the gear cluster and main shaft in the freezer for a few hours and get the bearings warm in the oven, wife moans about freezer and oven stinking of gear oil, but bearings are just a simple push fit due to expansion and contraction of the metal.
Hi mate two sockets the same size on each shaft then bridge them with metal plate then hit centre of metal plate both go down at the same time
Could you have used the old bearing as plate for the press. Stick it in top of the new bearing then press it home?
He just dribbling put the Special Tool to press out the Shafts, with just a Screw and a bunch of screws 😂 Pretty Clever Mate
Yesss. Been anxiously waiting
I had same issue with my electric rachet james good video as always mate keep it up
You could have had a 2 tonne bottle jack in there to press the bearing off. Even though it’s a 12 tonne press doesn’t mean u need 12 tonne of force for it to come off. Use a bit of heat to expand the collar and it will slide on without hitting it on
Been waiting for this video can’t wait to see you re do the gear box 👍👍👌👌
should bearings be open? cos trans oil will lube them?
Just to add my experience Ocatvia Mk3, 1.6tdi, 2014, gearbox MWW 0A4 was repaired under warranty at 80k km due to noise early in mornings sounded as cow, mouuuu. the noise disappeared once the motor came warm. Outside conical bearings on the diff - 2st. plus the two needle bearings and new oil - G052527 (or something like that was the specification). Trough, after 40km now the noise is back. Digging in documentation of the repair I found that the official service in Norway has tried to add 200mL oil to mitigate the noise with no success.
Now i bought 2Litres Castrol V (corresponding to spec as highly recommended to follow manufacture recommendations), made same 17mm tool a you :) and was ready to change the oil to try something and check for debris as I still have warranty for the repairment. However, opened the reverse switch and add 200ml 80W oil (what I had in the garage) and whalla - no that mouuuu noise anymore in any circumstances including heavy trailer.
Additional research on net shows that even in technical specs the gear box oil capacity is specified as 1.7L when refill out/in and 1.9L when dry fill. However, as I understand Skoda recommend now to add 2.2-2.3L instead. I assume all that is because the gear box is tilted by 12degree back and the fill in plug is not reference oil level anymore on O3 Mk3 models, oil fill in via the reverse switch, easy access under the air filter box, 22mm spanner, same 10mm hose fits well here.
May be some bearings are over the oil level as box tilted now and having the car over the night takes them to dry and the noise is coming next day first 100metters.
What were the part numbers for the bearings and brass collar you fitted? I have the same job to do on my polo. Cheers
You make the best video ever
May I know the symptoms of the bearing failure? Sounds?
Si quieres que dure esa caja ,quita esos tapones azules de los rodamientos y así le llegará más cantidad de aceite ,de esta manera dura unos 400.000 km y tapados unos 100.000 km ,,
He armado muchas cajas de estas y siempre lo hago así ,,estos rodillos vienes con grasa especial ,pero no duran nada taponados,,,,saludos desde Canarias
Nice work dude, you’ve got this 👍👍👍
Remember how you pressed the old bearing off. Just reverse it and press the new bearing on instead of hammering but I'm sure you haven't done anything that every home mechanic doesn't do every day full kudos for doing it
Keep all the old bearings etc in a box for future press spacers, you never know when you'll want something
That ok thought you may had been ill 😷 but good to see your back
I find things tend to arrive in lumps from fleapit...err ebay
Remove those blue plastic things for better lubrification
It just dont need more words than : "Weldone James"🤩🤩🤩
Correct me if I'm wrong but wouldn't hitting the center of the bearing potentially damage the ball bearings? I always thought you press a bearing using the outer part?
@@TomAlter1000 that’s what I was thinking. My only experience pressing bearings is with wheels bearings on my car, hence the confusion. Cheers.
Regarding gearboxes. I had 13 years ago an opel astra G which broke at 70k km. The simptom was similar to your gearbox issue, one of the bearings broke iside the gearbox. Reading on forums found out it is a common issue for my gearbox type and the culprit is a manufacturing issue where they used a sealed bearing and because of this the gearbox oil was not able to lubricate the bearing. The only lubrication it had was the grease they put inside at manufacturing which looked like it was not enough. Remedy was to change the bearing and also remove the seal of the new bearing. I used the car for 9 more years and in total it got more 432k km with me until i sold it with a little over 500k km on the dash. Never had any gearbox issues. One note, i always change gearbox oil for all my cars every 120k km. It is not a big investment although many ppl say it is not necessary. I always play on the safe side as my cars are my moneymakers. Nice video mate! Keep up the good work.
A great video, waiting for the next one. Thanks !!!
Super, thanks!
Was there any rattling Sound coming from the car when driving it or was it only at idle?
My fabia 1.4tdi Got a similar rattle at idle it goes away when pushing Down the clutch or just by raiseing the rpm to 13-1500.
There is No rattle when driving only at idle. Just had the clutch and releasebearing replaced a week ago and that did not help anything. 😅
where did you buy the bearings and seals?
I see you have a whole library of Haynes books 😂
Great video!
They are good books mate I have a small collection too.
@@Alexander_l322 I have one too for my fiesta
They explain almost everything
@@jozsef6453 good mate, keep them never throw it away even when you get a new car! I kept mine from ages ago just incase.
There good for dimensions and fluid capacity and torque settings really I wouldn't recommend using one if your a novice mechanic they don't really explain in great detail or if you have one you'll know that looking up a fix in one is a ball ache as for instance changing a blower resistor, you get to the page about blower resistor and it says to remove glovebox please refer to page whatever lmao so yer if you've got a problem and your a novice my advice is to look on RUclips or ask a garage don't just buy a Haynes manual and expect it to work miracles 👍👍👍👍
@@lea-rw5cb and on RUclips you can see how to exactly execute the job rather then relying on diagrams
Freeze the bearing?